Chapter 3

Lucius Annæus Seneca was born at Cordova in Spain, just before the commencement of the Christian era. His eldest brother was A. Seneca Novatus, which name was altered afterwards to that of his adopted father, Junius Gallio. This brother was the proconsul of Achaia, before whom St. Paul was arraigned (Acts xviii. 12). While Seneca was still a child he was brought by his aunt to Rome, where he had for teachers Sotion, Papirius Fabianus and Attalus the Stoic. Although weak in body he was a most diligent student, which, joined to his powerful memory, enabled him to obtain at an early age important offices. Before his banishment, A.D. 41, he had already served as quæstor. Having irritated Caligula, he would have been put to death, had not one of the mistresses of the emperor assured him that it was not worth while, as Seneca was so consumptive he would soon die a natural death.

In the first year of the reign of Claudius, his wife Messalina having become jealous of the influence his niece Julia, daughter of Germanicus, had over Claudius her husband, succeeded in getting rid of her by imputing to her improper intimacy with Seneca, then a married man. For that reason Seneca was banished to Corsica A.D. 41.

During his exile he wrote his consolatory letter to his mother Helvia, as well as a panegyric on Messalina and a consolatory letter to Polybius, ostensibly to condole with him on the loss of his brother; but in reality to get that powerful freedman to exert his influence with the emperor, to recall his sentence of exile. This letter is full of fulsome flattery and expressions unworthy of an honest man.

After the death of Messalina, Claudius married his niece Agrippina, sister of Julia and mother of Nero by a former husband. Through her influence Seneca was recalled A.D. 49 and appointed a prætor and tutor to Nero, then 11 years old. In A.D. 51 Agrippina poisoned her husband.

[Headnote: MACINAGGIO.--ROGLIANO.]

From S. Severa, the diligence, resuming its journey, passes Meria 20½ m., and halts again at the port of Macinaggio 2½ m. more. From this commences the steep ascent up to Rogliano 1300 ft., a town built in groups on the side of the mountain, among vineyards and olive and chestnut trees, the inn being in the second highest group, near the post-office. After Rogliano the diligence crosses the Cols S. Anne, Cappiaja and S. Nicholas, and arrives at Botticella 31 m., and then proceeds to Ersa with inn, near the top of the Col de Serra 1182 ft., commanding a good view of Cap Corse. Shortly afterwards the diligence arrives at Morsaglia, called also Pecorile, a village composed of groups of houses like Rogliano on the side of a hill. The conductor of the diligence will show the hotel. Six miles S. from Morsaglia is Pino, see p. 12.

[Headnote: BOTTICELLA.]

From Botticella a road leads 4½ m. N. to Barcaggio, opposite the island of Giraglia, on which is a first-class lighthouse, 269 feet above the sea, seen within a radius of 14 m.

From Morsaglia the road is continued 31 m. farther to the Col S. Bernardino on the Bastia and St. Florent road, passing Pino, 25 m. from the Col S. Bernardino; Minerbio, 21½ m.; Marinca, 16 m.; Nonza, 9 m.; Farinole, 2½ m.; Pont du Patrimonio, 1¼ m.; and joins the Bastia road at the Col S. Bernardino, 11¼ m. W. from Bastia.

Bastia to Calvi.

57 miles west; time 12 hours; fare 13 and 10 frs.

[Headnote: COL TEGHIME.]

miles from BASTIA miles to CALVI

{ }{57} BASTIA. The road traverses a mountainous country, with scanty vegetation. As far as St. Florent the prevailing rocks are micaceous and beyond granitic. Immediately after leaving Bastia the diligence commences the ascent of the Col de Teghime (1785 feet) in the Serra di Pigno, discovering as it winds its way upwards, an ever-extending panorama over the great eastern plain, including Lake Biguglia, and the Mediterranean with the islands of Elba, Gorgona and Monte Christo. As the road descends towards the western shore, the enchanting panorama of the blue gulf of St. Florent, encircled by low reddish rocks, gradually unfolds itself. It was at this road, made by Count Marboeuf, at which, it is said, King Bernadotte worked among the other labourers. It passes the hamlets of Barbaggio and Patrimonio, the Col St. Bernardino 11¼ m. from Bastia, and the Pont des Strette, and enters the valley of Nebbio, partly watered by the sluggish Aliso, flowing through a marsh crowded with oleanders.

[Headnote: ST. FLORENT.]

{14¼}{42¾} ST. FLORENT, pop. 760. Hôtel de l'Europe, where a hurried breakfast can be had while the horses are being changed. Close to the village is the site of the ancient town of Nebbio, occupied now by a few poor houses and a small church, now a ruin, built in the 12th century. Napoleon said, "St. Florent has one of the finest situations I have ever seen. It lies most favourably for commerce, its landing places are safe and its roads can accommodate large fleets. I should have built there a large and beautiful city." It was one of the first places to give adherence to the Bank of Genoa.

The road now for some distance leaves the shore and ascends a range of barren hills containing slate, limestone and granite. Hardy trees become more abundant than the chestnut, and the mountains higher and more imposing, as we approach the little port of

[Headnote: L'ILE ROUSSE.]

{42}{15} L'ILE ROUSSE, pop. 1610; Hotel Europe. The diligence stops in the "Place" near the monument to Pascal Paoli, and remains a sufficient time to enable the traveller to cast a glance over the main features of this port, founded by Paoli in 1759. The street beyond the "Place" leads by the market to the harbour and to the long jagged tongue of red sandstone rocks projecting into the sea, bearing on the extreme point a lighthouse of the fourth order. Steamer every alternate week to Marseilles. There is a charming view from the eminence St. Reparata, crowned with a church, now abandoned.

Inland from L'Ile Rousse is the fertile valley of Balagna, famous for the size and fertility of its olive trees (p. 20).

{47}{10} ALGAJOLA, pop. 200. The block of granite which forms the pedestal of the column in the Place Vendome came from the quarries of this place. Pillars 65 feet long can be procured from this quarry.

[Headnote: LUMIO.]

{51}{6} LUMIO, pop. 1100, among orange groves and high cactus hedges. From the hills here there is a beautiful view of the valley and gulf of Calvi. Junction here with road to Corté, 55½ miles, south-east, passing through a charming and picturesque country (see p. 20).

[Headnote: CALVI.]

{57} CALVI, pop. 2200. _Inns:_ H. France, in the high town; *Colombani, in the low town, near the dil. office and the wharf. Steamer for Marseilles every alternate week. This, the nearest port to France, is composed of the Citadel or Haute Ville and the Port or Basse Ville. The former, although the residence of the public functionaries, has a dilapidated and forsaken appearance. A rough road, paved with blocks of granite, leads up to it and to the ramparts, commanding beautiful and extensive views. The houses, shops and streets of the Basse Ville are much better and more cheerful than those in the Citadel. Both are defended by Fort Mozzello, rising behind the harbour. On the Punta-Revellata is a lighthouse of the first order, with a fixed light seen 20 miles off. Eight miles S.E. from Calvi is Calenzana, pop. 2900, with the chapel of S. Restituta, visited by pilgrims.

Calvi to Ajaccio.

miles from CALVI miles to AJACCIO

{ }{102} Distance 102 miles S.E. The road skirts the coast the greater part of the way. The first village is Galeria, pop. 500--_Inn:_ Seta, 21 miles S. from Calvi. From Galeria the Route Forestière, No. 8, extends 16 miles eastwards to the Col Capronale, 4495 feet, in the forest of Ometa. Six miles from Galeria is the entrance to the forest of evergreen oaks of Treccio, as well as the commencement of the road, 4½ m. long, to the forest of Perticato by the Col Erbajo, 3½ m., 2090 ft., and the Bocca Melza, 4½ m. 2500 ft.

Galeria to the Forests of Filosorma.

Grand scenery. Guide necessary. Map, p. 20.

This, the forest road No. 8, has two ramifications. The main line follows the course of the Fango the whole way, and only becomes a mule-path when near the Maison de Cantonniers d'Ometa, 14 m. E.

3¾ m. from Galeria a mule-path ramifies from the road to the hamlets of Tuarelli, Prunicciole and Chiorna. 3 m. farther is the ramification, 4½ m. S., through the forest of Perticato by the Col d'Erbajo, 2090 ft., 3½ m. S., and the Bocca Melza, 2500 ft., 4½ m. S. From the Bocca Melza a very bad path leads 2 m. S. to the hamlet of Pinito. At the beginning of the above ramification the main road enters the Ilex forest of Treccio, and leaves it nearly 2 m. afterwards.

8¾ m. from Galeria is a roadside inn, and 3¼ m. farther the entrance into the Ilex forest of Ometa.

11¼ m. from Galeria and about 2 m. from the almost unknown valley of the Lonca, an affluent of the Porto, is the Pont de Lancone, 1083 ft., across the Rocce. From this bridge there is a good view of Mt. Tafonato, 7687 ft., to the N. E., with its singularly perforated peak.

13¼ m. is the Grand Cassis d'Ometa, 1680 ft. A little farther the road becomes a bridle-path, and ascends from 1677 ft. to the Maison de Cantonniers d'Ometa, 2274 ft., and 1 m. farther is the end of the forest of Ometa.

15 m. from Galeria is the Grand Cassis de Giargione, 1163 ft., and about 2 m. farther the summit of Col Capronale, 4495 ft. A little way beyond, at the Capo Guagnerola, is a beautiful semicircle of reddish rocks covered with trees at the base. Farther E. by the Golo this forest road joins the forest road No. 9 to Francardo (p. 18).

Having crossed the Col de Castellaccio, 850 feet, and passed through the villages of Partinello and Vitriccia, 20 m. from Galeria, we arrive at

miles from CALVI miles to AJACCIO

{51}{51} PORTO (_Inn:_ H. Padoram), occupying a pleasant and sheltered situation at the head of a fine gulf, with a climate rivalling that of Ajaccio. Most of the timber from the forests of Valdoniello and Perticato is shipped here. For Porto to Ponte Francardo, see p. 18.

The road from Porto to La Piana (map, p. 20) affords a delightful drive, and exhibits good engineering. It is cut for a considerable distance through the rocks and cliffs and tall jagged peaks, like cypresses turned into stone, standing on the edge of this savage coast, parts of which are truly splendid. As the ascent is slowly continued, charming views disclose themselves, and on each side of the road the eye discerns some new beauty to dwell upon. At the Col Geneparo, to the right are the ruins of the castle of the Colonnas di Leca, rising boldly above the sea and surrounded and protected by magnificent natural battlements and pinnacles. Six miles from Porto, after having passed the Cols of Geneparo and Mezzano, both about 1250 feet, the traveller reaches

[Headnote: LA PIANA.]

miles from CALVI miles to AJACCIO

{58}{44} LA PIANA, 1587 feet, pop. 1280. _Inn:_ H. France. Delightfully situated, with a fine sea-view. From the Col San Martino, 1 m. from La Piana and 1630 feet above the sea, the landscape undergoes a rapid change. The magnificent rocks become parched and arid and the grass as yellow as the soil where it tries to grow.

[Headnote: CARGÉSÉ.]

{70}{32} CARGÉSÉ, pop. 1100. _Inn:_ H. de Voyageurs. A large village at the foot of a hill which slopes down to the sea. It was founded by a colony of 730 Greeks, who, fleeing from the oppression of the Turks, arrived and settled here, by the permission of the Genoese, in March 1676. For having refused to aid Paoli in 1755 against the Genoese their villages were burnt to the ground, and they themselves had to seek refuge in Ajaccio. After the cession of Corsica to the French in 1769 M. de Marboeuf had the village and church of Cargese built for the colonists, when they all returned. Greek is still spoken in the village, and it has a Greek as well as a Romanist priest.

[Headnote: SAGONA.]

{79}{23} SAGONA, pop. 100. The port of Vico. It contains a few houses, one of which is the inn, where beds, bread, eggs, coffee and wine can be had. On the beach are generally large logs brought down from the forests for shipment. Junction with road to Vico 9¼ miles E. (see p. 23), and also with the road extending 19 miles E. to the forest of Aïtone, passing by the Col Vico, 7½ m., 1607 ft.; Poggio, 12½ m.; the Col Sevi, 3612 ft., 13¼ m.; Cristinacce, 16½ m.; and the Col Lacciola, 3040 ft. in the forest. Five and a half miles from Sagona are the cold sulphurous springs of Caldanella; efficacious as a tonic.

{87½}{14½} CALCATOGGIO, pop. 670. A poor village on a hill above the road. From this the diligence shortly after commences the ascent of the Col Sebastien, 1344 feet, 12 miles from Ajaccio. After the Col Sebastien, the road having passed over the Col Staggiola, 930 feet, within a short distance of Appietto, situated on a hill; reaches

AJACCIO, 102 miles south-west from Calvi.

Porto to the Ponte Francardo.

50 miles north-east. Map, p. 20.

This important forest road traverses the region of the highest mountains and of the greatest forests, passes through Albertacce, and by the other villages of the Canton of Calacuccia, and then proceeds to Francardo by the defile of the Golo.

Porto to Evisa, 13¾ m., by an excellent carriage road wending through most picturesque mountain scenery. The road, after following the course of the Porto, crosses the stream Onda, ascends the ravine of the Cario, which it crosses 3 m. from Porto under the Capo Polmonaccia, 5627 ft. It now winds its way round little valleys into the narrow gorge of the Porto between dark red cliffs crowned with pinnacles. Nine m. from Porto is the ramification of the mule-path to Chidazzo, and ½ m. farther the ramification to Marignano. The road, after passing the chapelle S. Cyprien, enters Evisa, pop. 1000; _Inn:_ *H. Carrara; 2770 ft., on a high promontory projecting in the centre of a mountain-girt basin from the central range between two deep gulfs hollowed out to a depth of 2000 ft. Behind it rise pine forests to a broad mountain crest, the pass of the Niolo.

Evisa is admirably situated for excursions. A difficult winding path leads in 2½ hours down to the great walls of the dark granite ravine called the Spelunca, at the confluence of the Aïtone with the Porto. Rambles and drives into the forest of Aïtone, from which unfortunately the old stately pines have disappeared.

Evisa to Albertacce, 18 m. E. The road traverses the forest of Aïtone with its vigorous beeches and young pines (_Pinus laricio_), whose stems are clear of branches from 80 to 100 ft. It is watered by the Porto and numerous brawling streams; which rush down steep ravines covered with moss and ferns. In the forest, 3 m. from Evisa, by this road, is the Maison forestière d'Aïtone, where those provided with introductions, see p. 41, will find pleasant headquarters for grand excursions and fishing and botanical expeditions. 1¼ m. farther is the house of the road menders (Cantonniers) of Tagnone; where lodging can also be had.

The road having made several detours to get round the heads of ravines, ascends the Col de Vergio 4803 ft. on the great mountain chain separating the valley of the Golo from the valley of the Porto. About 230 ft. above the Col on the Cricche ridge, a little to the W., is an admirable view of Mt. Tafonato, 7687 ft., almost due N., with a strange natural tunnel through the summit. From Mt. Cuculla, 6733 ft., nearly 1¾ hours W. from the Col is a still better view of Tafonato, and besides a sight of Mt. Cinto, the valley of the Golo and the mountain range of Monte Rotondo. A little beyond the summit of the Col is the Maison de Cantonniers de Castellaccio, whence there is a good view of the forest of Valdoniello, 11,483 acres, containing besides many large pines very fine specimens of beeches, birches and alders. The felling of the trees in this forest commenced in 1863.

After arriving at the Maison forestière de Sciattarina 10½ m. from Evisa, the road passes by some of the finest trees, and descends into the valley of the Golo; which has its source in a ravine between Mts. Tafonato and Paglia-Orba.

Four and a half miles farther is the Maison forestière de Popaja, 3468 ft., 15 m. from Evisa and 3 m. from Albertacce. Either this house or the former, make good quarters for exploring the forest.

Two miles farther is the Ponte Alto, 2740 ft.; where the road crosses the Golo and enters the pastoral country of the Niolo; now called the canton of Calacuccia, comprehending the villages of Albertacce, Calacuccia, Corscia, Lozzi, and Casamaccioli.

From near the bridge a mule path of 1¾ m. ascends to Casamaccioli, 2780 ft., pop. 550; whence the continuation leads in 7 hours to Corté by the Bocca la Croce, the Melo forest, and the valley of the Tavignano.

[Headnote: ALBERTACCE.--MONTE CINTO.]

Albertacce, 18 m. from Evisa, 2845 ft., pop. 1000, a dirty village amidst chestnut and walnut trees; where a good deal of coarse linen and Corsican cloth is woven. It is one of the places whence the ascent is made of Monte Cinto, 8892 ft., in 7 hours, and in about 6 for the descent. The path ascends by Calasima, 3610 ft., to the height of 5251 ft. After this the course extends almost horizontally in a western direction across ridges, ascending by gradations more or less fatiguing.

When about 7720 ft., and having climbed nearly 6 hours, a cave is passed where shelter can be had. The remainder of the ascent is comparatively easy. The view is grand, Monte Falo, 8363 ft., being the most prominent object. The ascent cannot be made till the beginning of summer on account of the snow.

[Headnote: LAKE NINO.]

To Lake Nino, 5598 ft., the source of the Tavignano in 5 hours. From the lake a mule path chiefly by the left bank of the Tavignano, leads in 6½ hours to Corté, through magnificent forests.

Around the lake are some shepherds huts; where rest and refreshment can be had, but no further supply of food can be counted on between the lake and Corté. The lake, full of fish, lies in a hollow between high mountains, the highest being Mt. Retto, 6592 at the western end.

Albertacce to Ponte Francardo, 18 m. N.E. The road follows the Golo. To the left, a road 1¼ m., leads up to Lozzi, pop. 1050. 2½ m. from Albertacce is Calacuccia, 2779 ft. pop. 860, and 2 m. farther, another byeroad ascends to Corscia, 2913 ft., pop. 1000, about 5 hours walk S. from Asco, whence also Mt. Cinto may be ascended by the valley of the Asco called also Stranciacone. Asco is 5 hours from Olmi Capella by the Stranciacone, its affluent the Tassinella, and the Col de Petrella, 6440 ft., to the S. of Mt. Corona, 7032 ft.

Near the chapel of S. Pancrazio, 2786 ft., 4 m. from Albertacce is the commencement of the Scala di Santa Regina, as this part of road is called, cut in the face of perpendicular cliffs rising from the bed of the Golo. About half way are the small chapel and inn of Santa Regina, and the cave which in former times used to be the stronghold of robbers.

Thirteen miles from Albertacce is the Pont du Diable, 1083 ft., where four roads meet. The road southwards or to the right leads to Corté, 7 m. S. by Castirla and Soveria, and the Col of Oninanda, 2155 ft., between cliffs rising 1720 ft. above it.

[Headnote: ASCO.]

The road leading northwards extends to the beautiful highway between Ponte alla Leccia and Calvi; by Castiglione 3¼ m., pop. 550, at the foot of Mt. Traunato, 7186 ft., Popolasca, 7 m., pop. 200, with beautiful red granite pinnacles, and Moltifao 12 m., pop. 1050, with Inn, consisting of a group of villages, clustered on the slopes of the ridge which separate the valley of the Tartagine from the Asco. The byeroad S.W. from Moltifao leads up the highly picturesque valley of the Asco, with magnificent forest trees, to the village of Asco, pop. 950, a group of hamlets seldom visited, although one of the best points from which to make the ascent of Mt. Cinto.

[Headnote: PONTE FRANCARDO.]

The road leading 5 m. N.E. by the Golo extends to the Ponte Francardo, where the rail may be taken. See p. 9 and General Map.

Calvi to Corté or to Bastia.

See General Map.

By Ponte alla Leccia. The finest part of the road is between Calvi and the Col Colombano. "If I were to permit myself to dwell in detail on the exquisite variety and charm of the drive, especially after quitting the _route forestière_ a little E. of the hamlet of Palasca, I should wander far from the main purpose of this paper. Valery, Gregorovius, Lear and others have done justice to its wonderful beauty, and the last truly remarks that 'those who visit Corsica without going through upper Balagne remain ignorant of one of its finest divisions,' adding, 'no description can exaggerate the beauty of this remarkable tract of mountain background and deep valley, which for richness of foreground, cheerful fertility and elegance of distance may compete with most Italian landscapes.' The district is densely peopled--at least twelve large villages are situated on the road itself between Belgodere and Lumio, a distance of 21 miles--and picturesque hamlets with lofty campanili perch high up on the mountain slopes or crown the summits of the lower hills, whilst everywhere there is the richest culture and most varied produce, and the charm of the picture is completed by continually varying views over 'bowery hollows crowned with summer sea.'"--F. F. Tuckett, Alpine Club.

[Headnote: THE OLIVE TREE.]

miles from CALVI miles to CORTÉ

{ }{61} CALVI. The road skirts the coast as far as Lumio, 6 m. from Calvi, whence it commences to ascend gradually by an admirably engineered road round the undulations of olive-clad mountains, disclosing at every turn a different view of the fertile valley of Balagna, extending from the distant mountains to the blue waters of the Mediterranean. It is said that there is no district throughout the whole of Italy where the olive attains such a size as in this valley. Of the tree there are three varieties, the Sabine (_Sabinacci_), the Saracen (_Saraceni_), and the Genoese (_Genovesi_), the most common of all, and is ascribed to the Genoese, who during the government of Agostino Doria compelled the Corsicans to plant olives in great numbers.

[Map: Corsica Western Central Region]

After passing the picturesquely situated village of Lavatoggio, 9 m.; the Col Cesario, 1200 ft., 10½ m.; the villages of Feliceto, inn, pop. 640, 16¼ m.; Castor, 24 m.; Speloncato; Ville di Paraso, pop. 750; Occhiatana, and many more perched on the surrounding mountain tops, or nestling in nooks among olive and chestnut trees, the diligence arrives at

[Headnote: BELGODERE.]

{26¾}{34¼} BELGODERE, 1017 feet, pop. 950, commanding the finest view of this beautiful valley, its orchards, fields and mountains undulating towards the blue sea. The diligence just remains long enough to give time to run through the gate and up the narrow dirty street to the top of the rock on which the houses are clustered, and there to take a rapid glance at the lovely scene around and underneath. After the gate, the diligence halts at the post-office, and then moves on a few yards towards the stables, where the horses are changed.

FOREST ROAD FROM BELGODERE TO THE FOREST OF TARTAGINE.

[Headnote: CAPELLA.--TARTAGINE FOREST.]