Chapter 2

This now silent and empty house was once enlivened and brightened by the fair Letitia and her large family of children, just like other men's children; schoolboys toiling at their Plutarch or Cæsar, and their three young sisters growing up careless and rather wild, like their neighbours' daughters, in the half-barbarous island town. There is Joseph, the eldest, then Napoleon, the second born, then Lucien, Louis, and Jerome; then Caroline, Eliza, and Pauline, the children of a notary of moderate income, who is incessantly and vainly carrying on law-suits with the Jesuits of Ajaccio to gain a contested estate which is necessary to his numerous family. Their future fills him with anxiety; what will they be in the world and how will they secure a comfortable subsistence? And behold! these same children, one after the other, take to themselves the mightiest crowns of the earth--tear them from the heads of the most unapproachable kings of Europe and wear them in the sight of all the world; and they, the sons of an Ajaccio lawyer, cause themselves to be embraced as brothers and brothers-in-law by emperors and kings. Napoleon is European Emperor; Joseph King of Spain; Louis King of Holland; Jerome King of Westphalia; Caroline Queen of Naples and Pauline and Eliza Princesses of Italy. In 1793, after the flight of Madame Letitia and her children to her country residence, the Casone, the house was pillaged by the Corsicans opposed to the French Republic.

[Headnote: CATHEDRAL.]

Near the Place Letitia is the cathedral built in the 16th century by Pope Gregory. It contains the font at which Napoleon I. was baptized on the 21st July 1771.

[Headnote: MEMORIAL CHAPEL.]

In the Rue Fesch is the College founded in 1822. In one wing of the edifice is the public library, with 33,000 volumes, founded by Lucien Bonaparte, and the museum and picture gallery, with 900 paintings, mostly copies; and in the other the memorial chapel built by Napoleon III., lined with beautiful marble. In the crypt under the transept, left hand, is the tomb of Marie Letitia Ramolino, died at Rome in 1836; and right hand, that of Napoleon's uncle, Cardinal Fesch, died at Rome in 1839. Both bodies were brought to this, their present resting-place, in 1851. There are, besides, the tombs of Prince Charles and of Zenaida his daughter. Napoleon's father died in 1785 and is buried at Montpellier. Madame was only 35 at his death and had already borne him 13 children, 5 of whom were dead, and Jerome was an infant in the cradle.

Parallel with the Rue Fesch is the Cours Napoleon, by which all the diligences enter and leave the town. The continuation round the bay is bordered with plane trees. At the commencement is a bronze statue of "E. C. Abbatucci né à Zicavo le 12 Novembre 1770, mort pour la patrie le 2 Decembre 1796." Near it is the railway station.

At the western end of the Cours Napoleon is the Place Bonaparte or Diamant, bordered with trees and ornamented with a complicate bronze monument on a granite pedestal by Violet le Duc, "à la memoire de Napoleon I. et de ses frères Joseph, Lucien, Louis, Jerome." All are life-size statues; Napoleon is on horseback, the others on foot, marching solemnly towards the sea.

[Headnote: WALKS.]

EXCURSIONS.

From the port, 11 m. W., is the chapel S. Antonio, 850 ft. The road passes the penitentiary of S. Antonio, 331 ft. North from it, under the peak of La Barrage, 1476 feet, is the Castelluccio penitentiary. Westward by the Hospice Eugenie and the Batterie de Maestrello, a pleasant road leads along the coast to the orange gardens of Barbicaja, passing by the Chapelle de Greco and the cemetery. About 4 m. farther is the Tête Parata, 199 ft., opposite the Iles Sanguinaires.

A beautiful road, the continuation of the Cours Grandval, ascends 2½ m. to the Fontaine du Salario, 760 ft., commanding enchanting views. This road traverses the Place Casone, 144 ft., occupying the site of the Casone, the country house of the Bonapartes, destroyed in 1878. Close by is the "grotte Napoleon," composed of blocks of granite, to which, it is said, the youthful Napoleon used to retire.

About 6 m. N. from Ajaccio is the village of Alata, 1312 ft. Within an easy walking distance north from Ajaccio is the pleasant estate of Carrosaccia, on the canal which supplies the town with water from the Gravona. 5½ m. N. from Ajaccio are the sulphurous springs of Caldaniccia.

[Headnote: FAMILY TOMBS.]

In the neighbourhood of Ajaccio and of the other Corsican towns and villages are numerous family sepulchral chapels enclosed within walls. A more pleasing characteristic feature, probably inherited from the Moors, are the numerous fountains in the villages and by the road side, whence flow streams of cold, sparkling water of exquisite purity.

[Headnote: CLIMATE.]

_Climate._--For convalescent invalids, Ajaccio forms a delightful change from the Riviera, as it is so rural, and has such pleasant air and good water. The hotels are comfortable and their charges moderate. As, too, the road metal used around Ajaccio is that disintegrating granite which so readily solidifies by the combined action of the rain and traffic, there is very little dust in the neighbourhood (p. 9).

The principal winds are the Libeccio or S.W. wind, the Sirocco or S.E. wind, and the Mistral or N.W. wind.

On the 12th, 13th and 14th of May the fair of St. Pancras is held, which affords a good opportunity for purchasing Corsican horses. They are from 10 to 14 hands high and of great endurance. It is wonderful to behold the energy these small slim creatures display in dragging heavy lumbering diligences up long, steep, winding roads.

But more wonderful still is it to see the peasant women and girls as young as thirteen carrying on their heads up and down the mountain paths big pails, or the more elegant two-handled brass jars of classic form, containing about two gallons of water, without ever stumbling on any of the many stones. The pails are made of copper lined with tin, weighing when full of water from 55 lbs. to 65 lbs.

Among the curiosities of Ajaccio are gourds made into bottles, of various shapes and sizes and mounted with silver, and the pretty baskets made of straw by the girls of Alata.

[Map: Environs of Ajaccio]

Ajaccio to Bastia.

Ajaccio to Bocognano by rail, thence by diligence to Corté; Corté to Bastia by rail 47 m., or 44 by road. The road from Ajaccio ascends the valley of the Gravona to its source at the Col Vizzavona. On the N. side of the Col it follows the course of the Vecchio. The most picturesque part of this route is between Vizzavona and Vivario.

miles from AJACCIO miles to BASTIA

{ }{95} AJACCIO. Start from the station in the Cours Napoleon. The road, after traversing the fertile plain of Campo dell Oro, crosses the Col Sudricchio, 804 ft., and then the bridge of Ucciani, 948 ft., built in the reign of Louis XIV., 17½ m. from Ajaccio and 2 m. from the village of Ucciani. Use general map, and map, p. 27.

[Headnote: BOCOGNANO.]

{25}{70} BOCOGNANO, pop. 2000, and 2120 ft. above the sea. _Inn:_ Univers. Picturesquely situated in a plantation of chestnut trees, surrounded by high mountain peaks. Near Bocognano commences the Vizzavona tunnel, 4375 yards through the mountain. Diligence now to Corté. The road, having crossed the Sellola bridge, 2843 ft., winds its way up by the Col de Pinzalone, 3370 ft., and the Maison and Pont de Lavatoggio 3615 ft. to the top of the ridge. See map, p. 27.

[Headnote: VIZZAVONA.]

[Headnote: PINES.]

{31}{64} LE FORT DE VIZZAVONA, on the summit of the Pass, 3813 ft. above the sea, with the Gendarmerie and a few houses of refuge. A few miles northwards is Monte d'Oro, 7845 ft., and southwards Monte Renoso, 7733 ft. The diligence, in its descent to Vivario, traverses the forest of Vizzavona, consisting mainly of beeches and larches, frequently 150 ft. high. Of this tree there are two varieties, the _Pinus pinaster_ or cluster pine, the _Pin maritime_ of the French, which grows best on deep loose soils and flourishes even on the drifting sands of the sea shore. They supply large quantities of resin. Their wood being soft, coarse and perishable, is usually converted into charcoal and lamp black. The other is the _Pinus laricio_, which thrives on the high lands of Corsica, Spain, south of France, Greece and Cyprus. Their growth is rapid, the trunk straight and from 100 to 150 ft. high, the branches are in regular whorls, forming in large trees a pyramidal head, and the leaves are slender, from 4 to 7 inches long, and of a dark green tint. The timber is good and durable, though less strong than that of the _Pinus silvestris_. Between the 51st and 53d kilomètre stones are passed the "Maison de Refuge d'Alzarella," and the "Maison de refuge Omellina," 2832 ft.

After crossing the Col de Campo di Lupo, 2684 ft., 35 m. from Ajaccio, the road descends into the ravine of the Vecchio, above which is

[Headnote: VIVARIO.]

{38}{57} VIVARIO, pop. 1500, and 2152 ft. _Inn:_ H. Voyageurs a three-storied house. Junction with road to Zicavo, 37 m. S. (pp. 27,29). Although Vivario be a poor village, yet it has a terrace and fountain ornamented with a statue of Diana. The breeding of pigs fed in the adjoining chestnut forest, and the manufacture of hams, sausages and bacon, are the most important industries of the inhabitants.

From Vivario a forest road extends 27 m. S.E. to the hamlet of Vadina, by Muracciole 2022 ft., 1½ m., the Col Erbajo 3018 ft., 7 m.; Pietroso 10½ m., Saparelli 12½ m., and Quinzena 18 m. From Vadina a good carriage road leads 6 m. to the Baths of Pietrapola, which are supplied by most copious springs of hot, saline, sulphurous water. The season is from May 1 to June 30; or September 1 to November 30. The situation is beautiful and the bathing-establishment and lodging accommodation comfortable, and much frequented.

The road from Vivario to Serraggio passes along the top of the rocky gorge of the foaming Vecchio. The best view of the gorge is from the Pont du Vecchio 40 m. from Ajaccio and 280 ft. above the bed. From Serraggio, 1890 ft., Mt d'Oro is well seen. See map, p. 20.

The road now passes Lugo, 1980 ft.; S. Pietro, 2496 ft.; the Col. S. Nicolo, 2473 ft.; and Casanova, 2136 ft., to

[Headnote: CORTÉ.]

miles from AJACCIO miles to BASTIA

{51}{44} CORTÉ, 1329 ft., pop. 5500. _Hotels:_ *Paoli, 8 to 10 frs., Europe. Is situated at the junction of the Tavignano with the Restonico, in the midst of majestic mountains of the most varied form. The citadel or château, built in the early part of the 15th century, stands on precipitous and jagged rocks rising from the Tavignano, commanding from the top a magnificent view of the wild surrounding scenery. In the "Place" is a statue of Paoli, the Corsican patriot, born at Stretta in 1726, and to the right of the statue the post and telegraph office. In the immediate neighbourhood stands a large house, a Franciscan convent, in which the Corsican parliament assembled in Paoli's time. Near Corté, by the left side of the Restonico, is a quarry of marble of a bluish tint with reddish white veins. To take the walk up the gorge of the Restonico, descend by first road left up the main street from the hotels and cross only the Tavignano bridge. The mountain appearing to close the valley is Mte. Rotondo. See map, p. 20.

Coach to Aleria, 31 m. S.E. (p. 33), by a beautiful road.

Just outside Corté the rail traverses the Torretta tunnel, 1531 yards.

[Headnote: MTE. ROTONDO.]

From Corté the ascent of Monte Rotondo is most easily effected. It is 8613 feet above the sea-level, or 7284 feet above Corté. Cabins inhabited by the herdsmen are scattered over the declivities of the mountain up to within 3000 feet of the top. Time 2 days. Guide with mule 25 frs. Ascend by the road up the picturesque valley of the Restonico to the Timozzo bridge, 3590 feet, and 2½ hours from Corté. From this the path extends 1½ hour up the wild ravine of the Timozzo to the shepherds' huts; whence the rest must be done on foot. Now the hard work commences. Block lies above block, towering upwards and upwards in such endless masses of monotonous gray that the heart quails with the sight and the foot trembles to go farther. After about 2 hours' scramble over these colossal steps the traveller reaches the fontaine de Triggione, about 2200 feet below the summit and in full view of it, an incomplete circle of steep jagged cliffs. About 330 feet higher is a little dark lake, the Lago di Monte Rotondo, encircled by gentle green slopes, where the night is generally spent. Snow-field extend from the lake to the summit, which, although apparently near, requires 2 full hours' climbing to reach, often on hands and feet, over sharp fragments of rock, or up steep beds of slippery frozen snow. The extreme peak is a rugged obelisk of gray rock ending in a pinnacle. A way leads down by the S. side in 6 hours, to Guagno by lake Bettianella, 3419 ft., then W. by the road over the Col de Manganella, 5874 ft. See map, p. 20.

[Headnote: GRANITE.]

"The view from Monte Rotondo did not impress me. The central uplands, which form a large portion of it, are bare and arid, while the great ridge of Monte Cinto stretches across the northern horizon like a long screen. Comparatively little of the coast is seen in any direction, but most towards the west. It was curious to notice how completely the tops of the mountains between us and the Cinto ridge were flattened down, while the crest on which we stood was a set of bristling teeth. There are two kinds of granite in Corsica, one friable and unable to resist the action of the air, the other hard and defiant of the elements. Of this latter consist the Cinto range, Monte Rotondo and the rocks in the forest of Bavella."--D. W. Freshfield, Alpine Club.

The road now from Corté to Bastia traverses the Quilico Col, 1932 ft., passes Soveria, 1843 ft., and Caporalino, 8 m. from Corté, 36 from Bastia and 1 m. from Omessa. About 1½ m. farther it crosses the Golo by the Francardo bridge, 856 ft., where it meets the great Forest Road from Porto, 50 m. S.W. by Evisa and the Col de Vergio, p. 18, and map, p. 20.

[Headnote: PONTE LECCIA.]

miles from AJACCIO miles to BASTIA

{66}{29} PONTE ALLA LECCIA, 624 ft. Village, and coach and railway station. _Inn:_ Cyrnoz. Diligence to Calvi by the beautiful northern continuation of the road from Prunete by Cervione and Piedicroce, p. 20. "Courrier" daily to Piedicroce, 18 m. S.E. by Morosaglia, see p. 34. During the summer heats Ponte alla Leccia is considered insalubrious.

[Headnote: PONTE NOVO.]

{71}{24} PONTE NOVO. The site of the disastrous battle fought on the 9th of May 1769, when the Corsicans lost their independence and became subject to France. The two small houses on the right bank, a little farther down the river, were Paoli's headquarters. One month afterwards he, with some other Corsican refugees, sailed from Porto Vecchio in a British vessel for England (p. 39).

[Headnote: BORGO.]

{85}{10} BORGO, pop. 820. On the Mariana hills, rising from Lake Biguglia, one of the many lagoons on the eastern coast, separated from the sea by narrow sandbanks. Along this coast extend the only large plains in Corsica. Unfortunately, in summer they are subject to malaria, which, however, a judicious system of drainage is gradually abating. They are cultivated by Italian labourers who visit the island periodically. Between Borgo and Bastia is Bevinco, with valuable marble quarries. Southward from Borgo on the coast is Mariana, the site of the colony founded by Marius (p. 34).

[Headnote: BASTIA.]

{95} BASTIA, pop. 21,000. _Hotels:_ *France; Europe; Lingenieur; Croix de Malte over the post and telegraph office, all in the Boul. du Palais, 8 to 10 frs. Theatre; Public Library with 65,000 volumes. Steamers twice a week to Marseilles, time 18 hours, touching once a week at Nice, 12 hours distant. Fare direct to Marseilles, including food, 28 frs. To Nice, without food, 30 frs. Rubattino's steamers leave three times a week for Leghorn; time 6 hours. These same steamers proceed afterwards to Genoa. Railway to Corté. Rail also to Aleria, whence diligence to Bonifacio, Sartène and Ajaccio.

Diligences daily from Bastia to Cap Corse, 7 hours, 6 or 5 frs.; and also to Calvi, 12 hours, 13 or 10 frs.

[Headnote: BRANDO.]

Carriages to visit the stalactite cave at Brando, 10 frs. Admission 2 frs. each. It is 7 m. from Bastia, above Erbalunga, on the face of a mountain; and was discovered in 1841 by M. Ferdinandi. A steep path leads up to it. Keeper near cave. See p. 12.

_Bastia_, the most important city of Corsica, is built on ground rising gently from the sea. Facing the sea and the principal harbour is the Place St. Nicholas, adorned with a marble statue of Napoleon I., by Bartolini, looking towards the island of Elba. In this "Place", the promenade of the town, are the offices of the Messageries Maritimes and of the Compagnie Insulaire. Fraissinet's office is at the old harbour; whence also their steamers sail.

From the Place St. Nicholas ascends the principal street, the Boulevard du Palais, to the Palais de Justice. In this Boulevard are the post and telegraph offices (whence most of the diligences start), the hotels, cafés and the best shops, and from it ramify the streets of the town. At the top of the B. du Palais commences, right hand, the Boul. Cardo, one of the best roads to take for views of the town and neighbourhood. A flight of steps leads from the quay up to the cathedral, a handsome building in the Italian style. The markets are held in the "Place" fronting the cathedral. Most of the houses are built in large blocks from 5 to 6 stories high and from 6 to 9 windows broad, each story forming a separate residence.

Bastia owes its name to the bastion built here by the Genoese in the 14th century. From the hills behind Bastia the view embraces the islands of Gorgona, Capraja, Elba, and Monte-Christo, seen best from the top of the Serra di Pigno, 3640 feet. Refer to map on fly-leaf.

[Headnote: STEAMERS.]

The most beautiful part of Corsica, and the most easily visited, is the eastern side, including the Castagniccia or the chestnut country, and the whole region up in the mountains, which border this coast. The wealthiest, most industrious and most enterprising of the people are those who inhabit that long narrow tongue of land called Cap Corse. Although boats are constantly sailing from Marseilles and Leghorn to Bastia, invalids visiting Corsica with the intention of wintering in Ajaccio should, if possible, sail from Marseilles or Nice direct to Ajaccio; but on leaving the island, when winter is over, Bastia is perhaps the best port to sail from, as it affords an excellent opportunity for visiting the most beautiful parts of Corsica and the most important towns in Italy. On arriving at Leghorn (see Black's _South France_) it is best to proceed at once to the railway station, and start for Pisa, only 30 minutes distant. There are numerous trains. At the station and in the kiosques in the "Piazzas" of Leghorn, is sold an excellent little book with all the railway Time-tables, _L'Indicatore Ufficiale_, price 50 c.

[Headnote: CAP CORSE.--WINE.]

CAP CORSE.

Bastia to Rogliano and Morsaglia.

See General Map, p. 1.

By diligence, fare to Rogliano, 4 frs. and 3 frs., distance 27½ m., 6 hrs. To Morsaglia, 5½ and 4½ frs., distance 37½ m., 8 hrs. By the road skirting the eastern side of the peninsula of Cap Corse, the best cultivated part of the island, and containing the tidiest villages. The best Cap Corse wine, mostly white, is produced around Luri and Rogliano. The quality used as table wine is drunk the first year. It improves till the fifth year, the better qualities till the tenth and twentieth year. Cap Corse is traversed by a rugged mountain range or serra, of which the culminating peaks are Mount Alticcione, 4230 feet; Mount Stello, 4536 feet; and the Serra de Pigno, 3640 feet. From the east side of this rugged serra little fertile valleys extend to the sea.

[Headnote: PINO.--LURI.]

Mr. Freshfield thus describes the "Cap":--"Down a promontory 8 to 10 m. wide runs a range 3000 to 4000 ft. high, with the crest towards the western coast and the valleys towards the eastern. Hence the western Cornice road is a terrace along an always steep, sometimes sheer, mountain side, while the eastern crosses a succession of low maquis-covered spurs, which beyond Cap Sagro flatten and become monotonous. Pino is one of the most beautiful sites on the western coast. It is also important as the spot where the cross-road through the vale of Luri, under Seneca's tower, falls into the western Cornice. Half-way on this road the village of Luri groups itself in the most picturesque way imaginable on a hill-side broken by a deep ravine. Down on the seashore above the little Marina or port is a large convent; a church occupies a projecting brow 200 ft. above it; higher still, and right and left, every vantage-ground is occupied by groups of well-built villas and sepulchral chapels. The slopes are terraced into orchards of citron, lemon, peach and almond trees, olive groves and vineyards, sheltered from the gales of winter by high palisades."

Farther south, 5¼ m., is Nonza, with inn, 479 ft., pop. 550. Coach to St. Florent. This is one of the most curious villages of the island. It stands like an eagle's nest, perched above the sea on a black rock on the mountain side. Its houses, built level with the edge of the cliffs, formed in olden days a sufficient rampart against marauders.

The diligence having passed Lavasina 4½ m. from Bastia, Brando 7 m., and Erbalunga 6¼ m., halts at Sisco-port 9¼ m. To visit the cave of Brando take the steep narrow path left, near a mill, just before arriving at Erbalunga. Seats in shady places are placed here and there. The keeper's house is close to the entrance. The diligence then proceeds by Pietracorbara 11½ m., and the Torre all'Osse 13 m.; one of the best remaining specimens of the 85 towers built by the Pisans and Genoese to ward off the attacks of the Saracens. From the Torre the diligence proceeds other 2 m. to Perticciolo, where it halts.

[Headnote: SENECA'S TOWER.]

Two miles farther is S. Severa, where the horses are changed and the passengers breakfast. From S. Severa, a road ramifies 10 m. W. to Pino on the other side of the peninsula by the valley of the Luri, with vineyards and orange groves, passing the village of Luri 3½ m., with good inn, the Col de S. Lucie 7 m., 1363 ft., and Saronese 9¾ m. From the Santa Severa inn, Seneca's tower is distinctly seen, at the head of the valley, on the summit of a precipitous peak, rising from the S. side of the Col, 1355 ft., from which a steep, stony path leads up to it, by a forsaken Franciscan convent. The view is grand. To this tower, one of the many watch-towers built in the 12th cent., Seneca could never have been sent, but to the Roman colony of Mariana, then used as a place of banishment for political offenders.

[Headnote: SENECA.]