Chapter 1

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Transcriber's note:

The printed book carried two kinds of headnote: keyword and mileage.

"Keyword" headers, noting the places and subjects mentioned on the page, have been placed before the most appropriate paragraph.

Each itinerary gives the "miles from" {starting point} and "miles to" {ending point}, with the numbers themselves printed in the left and right corners of each paragraph. For this e-text the numbers are shown in braces before the beginning of each paragraph; the place names are given at the beginning of the itinerary, and repeated as needed. Paragraphs describing side exursions do not have mileage information.

Additional transcriber's notes are at the end of the book.

CORSICA.

[Map: Sketch Map of the Riviera and Corsica]

* * * * *

New Editions of Guide-Books for France, Belgium, Spain, Portugal and the Channel Islands.

Copiously Illustrated with Maps and Plans.

NORTH-FRANCE--From the North Sea to the Loire, exclusive of Paris, and from the Bay of Biscay to the Rhine. 19 Maps and 21 Plans 7/6

SOUTH-FRANCE--From the Loire to the Mediterranean, and from the Bay of Biscay to the rivers Arno and Po. The island of Corsica. 40 Maps and 27 Plans 7/6

_Published also in separate Parts._

North-France, WEST-HALF, or NORMANDY, BRITTANY and TOURAINE. 14 Maps and 16 Plans. Eighth Edition 5/

NORMANDY: Its CASTLES and CHURCHES. Second Edition. 5 Maps and 9 Plans 2/6

North-France, EAST-HALF, or PICARDY, CHAMPAGNE, LORRAINE, ALSACE and part of BURGUNDY. 5 Plans and 5 Maps. Third Edition 2/6

South-France, WEST-HALF. The SUMMER RESORTS in the PYRENEES; LUCHON, BIGORRE, BARÈGES, etc.; the WINTER RESORTS of PAU, ARCACHON, BIARRITZ, ST. JEAN-DE-LUZ, VERNET, AMÉLIE-LES-BAINS and MALAGA, and the CLARET-WINE VINEYARDS in MEDOC. 17 Maps and 4 Plans. Fourth Edition 2/6

South-France, EAST-HALF, or the VALLEYS of the WALDENSES, of the RHÔNE, the DURANCE and the UPPER LOIRE; the Baths of VICHY, AIX-LES-BAINS, ROYAT, VALS, MONT-DORE, BOURBOULE, BOURBON-LANCY, ACQUI, LUCCA, VALDIERI, etc.; the VOLCANIC REGION OF ARDÈCHE; the MOUNTAIN-PASSES between FRANCE and ITALY; and the RIVIERA of the MEDITERRANEAN from MARSEILLES to LEGHORN. 20 Plans and 21 Maps. Fourth Edition 5/

THE RIVIERA, or the MEDITERRANEAN from MARSEILLES to LEGHORN, including the inland towns of PISA, LUCCA, CARRARA and FLORENCE, and Excursions into the MARITIME ALPS. Fourth Edition. 10 Plans and 13 Maps 2/6

CORSICA, its Rail, Carriage and Forest Roads, with 6 Maps from the latest authorities. Second Edition 1/

BELGIUM, its CHURCHES, CHIMES and BATTLEFIELDS. 9 Plans and 4 Maps 2/6

NORTH-FRANCE (East-Half) and BELGIUM in One Volume, including a part of HOLLAND. Convenient for those going to Aix-la-Chapelle, Spa, Vittel, Contrexéville, or any of the Bathing Stations on the North Sea 5/

HANDBOOK for the CAR-TOURIST in the pleasant Islands of JERSEY, GUERNSEY and ALDERNEY. Maps and Plans. Second Edition 1/

SPAIN and PORTUGAL. (O'SHEA.) Seventh Edition. Edited by JOHN LOMAS. Crown 8vo. Maps and Plans 15/

From "Scotsman," June 2, 1884.

_"C. B. Black's Guide-books have a character of their own; and that character is a good one. Their author has made himself personally acquainted with the localities with which he deals in a manner in which only a man of leisure, a lover of travel, and an intelligent observer of Continental life could afford to do. He does not 'get up' the places as a mere hack guide-book writer is often, by the necessity of the case, compelled to do. Hence he is able to correct common mistakes, and to supply information on minute points of much interest apt to be overlooked by the hurried observer."_

* * * * *

ITINERARY THROUGH CORSICA

by Its Rail, Carriage & Forest Roads

by

C. B. BLACK

Illustrated by Five Maps and One Plan

Edinburgh Adam and Charles Black 1888

CONTENTS: CORSICA.

[Transcriber's Note: The four pages consisting of the Contents and List of Illustrations appeared twice in the original text, first as pgs. v-viii, then as pgs. xv-xviii. (The intervening pages are absent.) The text and layout are identical except that the first group is headed "Contents", the second "Corsica." The repeated text has been omitted here.]

Page

Corsica. --Position --Extent --Population --Highest Mountains --Forests --Vegetation --Aspect --Climate --Steamboats 1

Ajaccio. --Hotels --Cabs --Napoleon's Birthplace --Memorial Chapel --Chapel of San Antonio --Chapelle Greco --Fontaine du Salario --Family Sepulchral Chapels --Climate --Fair of St. Pancras --Water Carriers --Curiosities 3

Ajaccio to Bastia by Corté. --This road traverses the centre of the island diagonally, exhibits every characteristic of Corsica, crosses the longest rivers, passes through one of the greatest forests and by some of the highest mountains, and connects the three principal towns. Rail between Corté and Bastia 7

From Vivario, p. 8, a road leads to the mineral water establishment of Pietrapola. From Corté, p. 8, the ascent is made of Mt. Rotondo. From the Ponte Francardo, p. 9, the most important of the Forest roads extends S.W. to Porto by Albertacce and Evisa. From Albertacce the ascent is made of Mt. Cinto.

The great highway traversing the island from Prunete to Calvi passes through Ponte alla Leccia, p. 9. From Bastia, p. 10, are trains or diligences to every part of the east coast, and steamers to Leghorn, Genoa, Nice and Marseilles.

Bastia to Rogliano and Morsaglia, skirting the east coast of the long peninsula called Cap Corse. This road follows more or less the level of the sea till it reaches Macinaggio, whence it ascends to Morsaglia. The highway on the western side of Cap Corse is cut along the flanks of the mountains, generally at a considerable height above the sea 11

Bastia to Calvi by St. Florent and the Ile Rousse 14

Calvi to Ajaccio, by Galeria, Porto and Sagona. From Galeria and Porto great Forest roads penetrate into the interior 16

GALERIA to the FORESTS of FILOSORMA. --Tourists should not explore any of the great Forest roads without being provided with letters to the dwellers in the maisons forestières and in those of the Cantonniers; see p. 41 and map, p. 20 16

PORTO to the PONTE FRANCARDO. --The most important of all the Forest roads. It passes through Evisa and by several good "maisons forestières." From the Col Vergio is seen Mt. Tafanato, with its natural tunnel, and from Albertacce is commenced the ascent of Mt. Cinto. Several mule-paths ramify from this forest road, the most important being to Lake Nino and Corté, and to Asco: whence Mt. Cinto is also ascended. The most famous part of the road itself is the Scala di Santa Regina 18

Calvi to Corté or to BASTIA by PONTE ALLA LECCIA. --This road traverses a most picturesque country, and the region of the finest olive trees in the island 20

BELGODERE to the FOREST of TARTAGINE. --This forest contains few old trees, and is not of easy access 21

Ajaccio to Evisa, VICO and the BATHS of GUAGNO 22

Ajaccio to Sartène, by CAURO, APA, OLMETO and PROPRIANO. See S.W. end of general map 23

CAURO to BASTELICA. --Bastelica is the common name of a group of hamlets, in one of which Sampiero was born. From this the ascent is made of Mt. Renoso 24

AJACCIO and APA to ZICAVO and the BATHS of GUITERA, by Santa-Maria-Siché, Frasseto and Zecavo. S. Maria-Siché is the birthplace of the fair and gentle Vanina. From Zicavo the ascent is made of Mt. Incudine; whence is beheld the finest view in Corsica. See maps on fly-leaf and fronting p. 27 24

PROPRIANO to SOLENZARA, from the S.W. to the S.E. of the island. This Route Forestière is better treated on p. 36, as Solenzara to Sartène 26

Sartène to Corté by Vivario. --This is the great central highway, of which the wildest and most difficult part is given on map, p. 27. It leads to some fine forests, of which the best is the Verde forest. At the most desolate portion are tolerably comfortable maisons forestières. Vehicles should be hired either at Sartène or Vivario, 20 to 25 frs. per day 27

GHISONI to GHISONACCIA, by the route forestière, extending from the central main road to the Ghisonaccia railway station on the east coast. The most dangerous part of the road is the "Passage" Inzecca. See map, p. 27 29

SARTÈNE to BONIFACIO 30

Bonifacio to Bastia by the fertile plains and insalubrious lakes of the east coast 31

Aleria to Corté by a picturesque road following the course of the Tavignano. Coach every other day 33

Prunete to Castagneto or ALESANI, by coach daily. Castagneto is one of the villages in the Castagniccia or Chestnut country. The road ascends all the way. It, as well as most of the roads into the interior, should not be taken till the chestnut trees are in leaf 33

FOLELLI to STAZZONA by coach daily. Stazzona is the village nearest to the Spa of Orezza. The road extends to Ponte alla Leccia 33

VESCOVATO STATION to PORTA, by coach daily, passing Vescovato, Venzolasca and Silvareccio. In summer the coach goes on to Piedicroce 34

PONTE ALLA LECCIA to PIEDICROCE by "Courrier" daily 34

Piedicroce to Prunete-Railway Station, the finest part of the road being between Piedicroce and Castagneto. Coach from Castagneto to Prunete by Cervione. From Castagneto or Alesani to Prunete see Prunete to Alesani, on p. 33 35

SOLENZARA, on the S.E. coast, to SARTÈNE, 46 m. S.W., by a forest road with much fine scenery 36

HISTORY, HABITS, AGRICULTURE and HOUSES OF REFUGE, called "Maison" in the index 37

LIST OF MAPS.

Page

Sketch Map of the Riviera and Corsica, showing the relative position of their principal towns; as also the ports connected with each other by steamboat _Fly-leaf_

General Map of Corsica 1

Plan of Ajaccio. --The town is built on rising ground 3

Environs of Ajaccio 6

The Western Central Region. --This is the least known and the most difficult portion of the island to traverse. Yet easy and picturesque short excursions may be made from Porto, Evisa and Galeria, into the forests of evergreen oaks, etc 20

Central Corsica, or the most troublesome part of the grand highway, which traverses Corsica from south to north, from Sartène to Ponte alla Leccia, whence it ramifies eastward to Bastia and westward to Calvi and Ile Rousse. It joins the railway and the road between Ajaccio and Corté near Vivario 27

CORSICA

Is situated 54 miles W. from Leghorn, 98 m. S. from Genoa, and 106 m. S.E. from Nice. It is 116 m. long, 52 m. broad, and contains an area of 3376 square miles; divided into 5 arrondissements, subdivided into 62 cantons, and these again into 363 communes, with a population of 275,000. The surface, of which little more than a tenth is under cultivation, is composed of lofty and rugged granite mountain chains, diverging in all directions from the culminating peaks of Mounts Cinto, 8892 ft.; Rotondo, 8613 ft.; Pagliorba, 8278 ft.; Padro, 7846 ft.; and Oro, 8829 ft. On the western and southern sides of the island these ranges terminate abruptly on the shore, or run out into the sea; while, on the eastern side, a great undulating plain intervenes between their termination and the coast, in summer troubled with malaria, but in a less degree than formerly.

Corsica is the central region of the great plant system of the Mediterranean. Among the many fine forests which cover the mountains, the most important are those of Valdoniello, Filosorma, Vizzavona Verde, Zonza, Bavella, Ometa and Calenzana. They contain noble specimens of pines, oaks, beech, chestnut, walnut and olive trees. The cork oak forms woods, chiefly in the south of the island. The chestnut trees are as large and fruitful as the best on the Apennines, and the nuts form the staple article of food for man and beast during the winter months. Indeed, these glorious chestnut and beech forests, when in full foliage, are the grand features of Corsican scenery, which therefore cannot be seen to advantage till towards the end of May, and if to this we add the splendid bloom of the oleanders, not till July. "I at any rate know of no such combination of sea and mountains, of the sylvan beauty of the north with the rich colours of the south; no region where within so small a space nature takes so many sublime and exquisite aspects as she does in Corsica. Palms, orange groves, olives, vines, maize and chestnuts; the most picturesque beech forests, the noblest pine woods in Europe; granite peaks, snows and frozen lakes--all these are brought into the compass of a day's journey. Everything is as novel to the Alpine climber as if, in place of being on a fragment of the Alps, severed only by 100 miles from their nearest snows, he was in a different continent."--D. W. Freshfield, Alpine Club.

[Map: Corsica]

[Headnote: VEGETATION.]

The prickly pear, the American aloe, the castor-oil plant and the fig-tree, grow wild along the coast; while a little farther upwards, on the slopes and plateaus, the arbutus, cistus, oleander, myrtle and various kinds of heaths, form a dense coppice, called in the island maqui, supplying an excellent covert for various kinds of game and numerous blackbirds. When the arbutus and myrtle berries are ripe the blackbirds are eagerly hunted, as at that time they are plump and make very savoury and delicate eating.

There are few cows on the island, the greater part of the milk supply being procured from goats. It is excellent, and has no rank flavour.

The only remarkable creature is the mouflon, a species of sheep, resembling that almost extinct animal the bouquetin or ibex of the Alps. It inhabits the highest mountains, and though very wild is easily tamed.

The best red wines are grown about Ajaccio, Tallano, Cervione and Sartene, and the best white wines in Sari and in the valleys of Cape Corso. They improve up to twenty years, and even up to fifty.

The temperature of the climate of Corsica varies according to the elevation. Along the coast the sun is warm even in January. After January the temperature rises rapidly. The climate of the zone 2000 ft. above the sea is considerably colder and snow generally appears there in December. The olive ripens its fruit up to an elevation of 2000 ft. and the chestnut to 3000, where it gives place to oaks, box trees, junipers, firs and beeches. The greater part of the population inhabits the region of the chestnut trees, in villages scattered over the mountain slopes, valleys and tablelands.

[Headnote: STEAMBOATS.]

Steamers to Corsica.--For invalids the easiest way is by the large weekly Tunis steamer of the Compagnie Generale Transatlantique, 12 R. de la Republique, which on its way from and to Marseilles, touches at Ajaccio, 211 m. S., in 16 to 19 hrs., fare including meals, 38 frs. The Compagnie Insulaire, 29 R. Cannebière, have boats every week for Ajaccio and Propriano, 38 frs., Calvi and Ile Rousse, 28 frs., Bastia and Leghorn, 32 frs., and Nice, Bastia and Leghorn. Weekly steamers between Genoa, Leghorn and Bastia. The boats of the Compagnie Insulaire being smaller, come within a few yards of the mole. The luggage is landed from the steamers by the company free of expense and is delivered at the custom-house to the proprietor on presentation of the bulletin de baggage. Passengers are taken ashore and to their hotels for 2 frs. each.

The Navigazione Generale Italiana, Piazza Marini, Genoa, have a steamer every week for Portotorres, at the north-west extremity of Sicily, calling at Bastia. Also from Leghorn to Bastia. Distance 72 miles, fare 20 frs., time 7 hrs.

Small steamer between Ajaccio and Propriano twice weekly.

AJACCIO.

_Hotels._--On an eminence, in its own grounds, rising gently from the sea, is the *Grand Hotel, with sea and fresh water baths and every convenience; opened at the end of the present year. A skilled English physician on the premises.

There are besides three good family hotels, charging from 8 to 12 frs.; in the Course Grandval, the H. Continental, wine 1½ fr., carpeted brick floors, garden; near it, with south exposure and full view of the bay, the *H. Suisse or Schweizerhof, wine 1 fr., smooth wood floors, partially carpeted, garden; at the top of the Course Grandval, the H. Bellevue, wine 1¼ fr., partially carpeted wood floors, garden.

These prices include coffee or tea in the morning, meat breakfast and dinner and service, but neither candles nor wine, of which the lowest price per bottle is given above. In the Place Bonaparte is the H. de France, a good French hotel, pension 8 to 12 frs.

_Bankers and Money-changers._--The bank Bozzo-Costa and the bank Lanzi, both near each other in the Boulevard Roi Jerome.

The office of the Compagnie Transatlantique is in the same Boulevard; the office of the Compagnie Insulaire is in the Place du Marché.

_Cabs._--The course 1½ fr., the hour 2 frs., the day 25 frs.

Tariff of return drives, with 2 frs. extra for every hour of repose.

_West_ from Ajaccio: Scudo, 5 frs.; Vignola 1114 ft., 15 frs.; Vignola village, 10 frs.; Lisa, 15 frs.; Iles Sanguinaires, 10 frs.; St. Antoine, 5 frs.; Salario, 5 frs. _North_ from Ajaccio: Castelluccio, 4 frs.; Mezzavia, 5 frs.; Alata and Col Carbinica, 25 frs.; Afa, 20 frs.

_East_ from Ajaccio: the Campo dell' Oro, or the plain at the mouth of the Gravona, 5 frs.; the Baths of Caldaniccia, 5 frs.; Bastelicaccia, 5 frs.; Pisciatella, 6 frs. Three frs. gratuity for a whole day. The horses cover on an average about thirty miles a day.

AJACCIO, pop. 19,050, the capital of Corsica, is situated on the extremity of a small gulf 677 miles from Paris and 15 to 20 hours' sail from Marseilles. Founded in 1492 by the Bank of St. George of Genoa, a commercial association similar to the East India Company, it was raised in 1811 through the influence of Madame Letitia and Cardinal Fesch to the dignity of capital of the island, and became accordingly the residence of the Préfet and the seat of the civil and ecclesiastical Courts. Ajaccio has a handsome Episcopal chapel built by Miss Campbell, of Moniack Castle, Scotland, an accomplished lady, the authoress of a work on the island in French and English.

In the Cours Napoleon is a small French mission, whose worthy pastor, besides conducting the regular Sunday services, gives two lectures (conferences) every week, which are attended by from 80 to 100 people.

The houses in Ajaccio, as well as those throughout the island, are generally built in large square blocks of from 3 to 5 stories, each story forming a separate dwelling.

[Map: Ajaccio]

[Headnote: NAPOLEON'S BIRTHPLACE.]

The mole at which passengers land from the steamers is at the foot of the Place du Marché. In the centre of this "Place" is a fountain ornamented with lions and a white marble statue of Napoleon I. by Laboureur. To the left of the statue is the Hotel de Ville, the markets, and the commencement of the Rue Fesch, in which is the edifice containing the public library, the museum, and the memorial chapel (p. 5); while to the right is the Rue Napoleon, in which the first opening right leads into the Place Letitia. A little beyond this opening is No. 17, the house of the Pozzo di Borgo family, of whom Charles André, 1768-1842, was the great upholder of Paoli and the bitter enemy of Napoleon I. Napoleon's house, though not equal to that of the Borgo family, was one of the best in Ajaccio. It is well built, of three stories of six windows each, and all the rooms have a more or less handsome marble chimney-piece. Over the door is inscribed on white marble "Napoleon est né dans cette maison le XV Aovt MDCCLXIX". A good staircase, bordered by a wrought-iron railing, leads to the top. The rooms shown are on the first floor. The first is the parlour, with a small table, a few chairs, and a piano said to have belonged to Mme. Letitia. Then after having passed through a small chamber we enter the room in which Napoleon was born, into which Madame was brought hurriedly from the church in the sedan chair kept in the end room. Over the chimney-piece are portraits of the father and mother. Then follows the dining-room, and after it the drawing-room, with inlaid wood floor and six windows on both sides. The floors of all the other rooms are of glazed tiles. In the next room is the sedan chair. Fee for party 1 fr.