Part 17

We kept the road all the way, though sometimes it passes over little bogs, and at last about Winterton is inclosed: it terminates in some arable, where it is well nigh lost a mile south of Wintringham. Upon a rising ground at the end of the Roman road, a little to the right, and half a mile east of the present Wintringham, stood the old Roman town, of which they have a perfect knowledge, and ploughed up great foundations within memory: it is now a common, skirted by the marshes upon the Humber: the soil hereabouts is clay. This site of Old Wintringham, as called, was almost inclosed with water in its first condition, having only a slip of land towards the Roman road as an entrance: the valley westward between it and the town is now called the Old Haven, where three elm-trees stand: the east is bounded by the mouth of the Ankham, which I suppose is _ang_ in British, broad, _avon_, river, from its broad marshes. The city was ploughed up six years ago, and great numbers of antiquities found, now lost; great pavements, chimney-stones, &c. often breaking their ploughs: in several places they found streets made of sea-sand and gravel. It is a _peninsula_ between the Humber and Ankham, and had most opportunely a fine spring on the east side, which no doubt was embraced by the Romans: it is likewise a great rarity in nature, arising so near the sea in a clayey marsh: there is stone-work left round it, and an iron ladle to drink at, which is done frequently by travellers, as with a religious necessity. Several intakes have been made beyond this city in memory of man, which drives the Humber farther off, and increases the marsh: it is half a mile between it and old town. The old haven-mouth is called Flashmire. This place is over-against Brough, the Roman town on the Yorkshire shore; but it is rather more eastward: so that with the tide coming in they ferried over very commodiously thither, and even now they are forced to take the tide. _Buck-bean trefoil_ grows upon all the bogs hereabouts. The bearing of the end of the Roman way is precisely north and south, as at Lincoln; so that it is a true meridian line from the west end of the cathedral. The present Wintringham is a dirty poor place, but still a corporation; and the mayor is chosen only out of one street, next the old town, where was a chapel: the bell of it now hangs in a wooden frame by the pillory, and makes a most ridiculous appearance. Here is still a ferry from a small creek kept open by some freshes; it was ill judged of travellers to desert the old Roman way and ferry, and turn the road to Barton, (where the Humber is much broader and very dangerous) for no other reason but because it is somewhat nearer and over-against Hull: but the saving three miles riding does not compensate for the time or hazard of so uncouth a passage. I am persuaded the old name of this station was _Abontrus_, the same as the name of the river, whence they have formed the mimic Wintringham. Here is a vast jaw-bone or rib of a whale, that has lain time out of mind, like that at St. James’s. Wintringham church stands on the end of the Lincolnshire _Alpes_. Well may the Humber take its name from the noise it makes: my landlord, who is a sailor, says in a high wind it is incredibly great and terrible, like the crash and dashing together of ships. The Roman way beyond the Humber at Brough is continued in Yorkshire; but of its progress that way I can say nothing at present, this being the northern boundary of my expeditions.

[Sidenote: +Aquis.+]

[Sidenote: TAB. XVII. 2d Vol.]

From the termination of the Hermen-street, just by the knoll of old Wintringham, and the hedge on the side of a common, a lesser vicinal branch of a Roman road goes directly west to Aukborough, passing over Whitton brook. All the ground hereabouts terminates at the Humber in longitudinal ridges going north and south, and all steep like a cliff to the west, plain and level eastward. Aukborough I visited, because I suspected it the _Aquis_ of the Romans, in Ravennas, and I was not deceived; for I presently descried the Roman _castrum_.[83] There are two little _tumuli_ upon the end of the road entering the town. The Roman castle is square, three hundred foot each side, the entrance north: the west side is objected to the steep cliff hanging over the Trent, which here falls into the Humber; for this castle is very conveniently placed in the north-west angle of Lincolnshire, as a watch-tower over all Nottinghamshire and Yorkshire, which it surveys. Hence you see the Ouse coming from York, and downward the Humber mouth, and all over the isle of Axholm. Much salt-marsh is gained from all these rivers, though now and then they reclaim and alter their course. Then they discover the subterraneous trees lodged here at the Deluge in great abundance, along the banks of all the three rivers: the wood is hard and black, and sinks like a stone. Here are likewise other plentiful reliques of the Deluge in the stones, viz. sea-shells of all sorts, where a _virtuoso_ might furnish his cabinet: sometimes a stone is full of one sort of shell, sometimes of another; sometimes, of little globules like the spawn of fishes: I viewed them with great pleasure. I am told the camp is now called Countess Close, and they say a countess of Warwick lived there; perhaps owned the estate;[84] but there are no marks of building, nor I believe ever were. The _vallum_ and ditch are very perfect: before the north entrance is a square plot called the Green, where I suppose the Roman soldiers lay _pro castris_: in it is a round work, formed into a labyrinth, which they call Julian’s Bower. The church is of good stone, has a square tower, but the choir ruinous, excluded by a wooden partition: between it and the way to the marshes, a good spring rising out of the cliff. I dare say no antiquary ever visited this place since the Romans left it; for the people were perfectly ignorant of any matters we could inquire about; and as to finding coins, &c. they would make us no other answer than laughing at us: but I heard since, from other good hands, that they have been found here in great numbers.

[Sidenote: +Julian’s Bower.+]

Because I have frequently found these places called _Julian’s Bower_, both at Roman towns and others, but especially very common in Lincolnshire, I considered what should be the meaning of them, and shall here give my thoughts about it. They are generally upon open green places, by the side of roads or rivers, upon meadows and the like near a town: the name often remains, though the place be altered and cultivated; and the lovers of antiquity, especially of the inferior class, always speak of them with great pleasure, and as if there were something extraordinary in the thing, though they cannot tell what: very often they are called _Troy town_. What generally appears at present is no more than a circular work, made of banks of earth, in the fashion of a maze or labyrinth; and the boys to this day divert themselves with running in it one after another, which leads them by many windings quite through and back again.

Upon a little reflection I concluded that this is the ancient Roman game; and it is admirable that both name and thing should have continued through such a diversity of people; though now it is well nigh perished, since the last age has discouraged the innocent and useful sports of the common people, by an injudicious and unnecessary zeal for religion, which has drove them into worse methods of amusement. I imagine too this was a practice of the ancient Britons, many of which were of Phrygian extract, coming from the borders of Thrace; therefore derived it from the same fountain as the Romans: this was upon their _maii campi_; but I shall not speak of them here: and the Turks, I apprehend, learnt it hence; for it is their diversion too. As to the name _bower_, it signifies not an arbor, or pleasant shady retirement, in this place; but _borough_, or any work made with ramparts of earth, as camps and the like: and it is my thoughts, many works, which have been taken for camps, were only made for this purpose; whereof two I met with in this journey, that at Ashwel, and Maiden Bower near Dunstable. The name of _Julian_ undoubtedly refers to _Julus_ the son of Æneas, who first brought it into Italy, as is admirably described by Virgil in his V. Æneid. and kept up by the Romans with great pomp and annual festivity: Augustus was particularly fond of it, and took it as a compliment to his family. That they call these places _Troy town_, proves the same. Hear the poet:

_Hunc morem hos cursus atque hæc certamina primus Ascanius, longam muris cum cingeret Albam Rettulit, & priscos docuit celebrare Latinos. Quo puer ipse modo, secum quo Troia pubes. Albani docuere suos, hinc maxima porro Accepit Roma & patrium servavit honorem: Trojaque nunc pueri Trojanum dicitur agmen._

This game long since, this martial exercise Ascanius brought, when Alba’s walls he rear’d. Whence the old Latins celebrate the same, As he a lad, with him the Trojan youth. The Albans taught it theirs: from them great Rome Learnt it, and to their country’s honour call The game _Troy town_, the boys the _Trojan band_.

I conceive this game was of two sorts; that performed on foot; that on horse-back, or in chariots: the intent of both was to exercise the youth in warlike activity, for it was a sort of mock fight: that on foot was the _Pyrrhic_ dance. Suetonius says, _lusus ipse quem vulgo Pyrrhicum appellant Troja vocatur_. If we carry it up to its first original, we must affirm it was invented by the _Corybantes_, _Idei dactyli_, _Curetes_, whose institution, when confirmed among the Romans, was continued by the priests called _Salii_, dancing in armour, and clashing their weapons together with some sort of concert. Likewise the real soldiers had the same festival, which they called _armilustrium_, celebrated on the 19. Octob. of which Varro gives us an account _de lingua Lat._ Suetonius mentions it in _Tiberio_, c. 72. This, whether performed on foot or horse-back, by children, priests or soldiers, was manifestly the same thing: their gestures, turnings, returnings, knots and figures, their assaults, retreat, and the like, were aptly represented by mazes and labyrinths; which very comparison Virgil uses.

_Ut quondam Cretâ fertur labyrinthus in altâ, Parjetibus textum cæcis iter, ancipitemque Mille viis habuisse dolum, qua signa sequendi Falleret indeprensus & irremeabilis error._

Such was in Crete the labyrinth of yore, In crooked tracks immur’d, a thousand ways Doubtful and dark: whence the return obscure, Inextricable, in endless mazes lost.

It is likely these works of ours, made in the turf, were cast up, in order to teach the children the method of it. That on foot is elegantly described by Claudian _de_ VI. _consul. Honorii_, v. 622.

_Armatos hic sæpe choros, certaque vagandi Textas lege fugas, inconfusosque recursus, Et pulchras errorum artes, jucundaque Martis Cernimus: insonuit cum verbere signa magister. Mutatosque edunt pariter tot pectora motus, In latus allisis clypeis, aut rursus in altum Vibratis. grave parma sonat mucronis acuti Murmure, & umbonum pulsu modulante resultans Ferreus alterno concentus clauditur ense._

Here have I seen the armed rings revolve In artful flights, in order then advance, Attack, retire in all the forms of war, Their eye still on the signal of the chief; Then face about, ringing their brazen shields Against their corslets, or uplifted high Threaten the ecchoing skies; whilst steely blades Harsh murmur, and the clanging targets sound Alternate struck, the martial concert close.

The equestrian games of this denomination required more room and _apparatus_ for spectators: therefore probably they fenced in a larger space of ground, of a circular or oval form, with a _vallum_, to keep the spectators at proper distance, and upon which they might more commodiously behold the sport. This I suppose was provided for by those bowers or burroughs mentioned, where there was no ditch behind; for that would be dangerous, if the people crouding one another, as is natural on those occasions, should thrust the outermost from such an elevation: so that they were a larger sort of amphitheatres, or circs: and this seems expressly intimated by the great Mantuan in those verses,

_Munera principio ante oculos circoque locantur In medio—— Et tuba commissos medio canit aggere ludos._

These games on horseback he thus describes:

_Olli discurrere pares, atque agmina terni Diductis solvere choris, rursusque vocati Convertere vias, infestaque tela tulere. Inde alios ineunt cursus aliosque recursus Adversis spatiis, alternosque orbibus orbes Impediunt, pugnæque cient simulachra sub armis. Et nunc terga fugâ nudant; nunc spicula vertunt Infensi, factâ pariter nunc pace feruntur._

They ride by pairs: the martial cavalcade Triple battalions form, which open first With adverse front, and show of dreadful fight. Then new careers they take, wheeling about In various circles and self-ending orbs, In all the mazy arts and forms of war; Now turn their backs, and now afresh attack: At length in peaceful order all march off.

It seems that our tournaments, so much in fashion till queen Elizabeth’s time, are remainders of these warlike diversions; and the triple order, by which they were conducted, may possibly be imitated in some degree by the common figure in dancing, called the _hedge_, or the _hay_; both which I suppose are derived from the Saxon _hæg_, perhaps from the Latin _agger_.

We passed by the spring of old Wintringham and the Marsh at the mouth of the Ankham, which is a vast tract of land left by the sea; and came to Feriby sluice, a stately bridge of three arches, with sluices for voidance of the water into the sea, but now broken down and lying in dismal ruins by the negligence of the undertakers: whence travellers are obliged to pass the river in a paltry short boat, commanded by a little old deaf fellow with a long beard: into this boat you descend, by the steep of the river, through a deep mirey clay, full of stones and stakes; nor is the ascent on the other side any better, both dangerous and difficult. This, with the hideous ruins of the bridge, like the picture of hell gates in Milton, and the terrible roar of the water passing through it, fitly represented Virgil’s description of Charon’s ferry: nor would a poet wish for a better scene to heighten his fancy, were he to paint out the horrors of the confines of hell.

_Hinc via Tartarei quæ fert Acherontis ad undas. Turbidus hic cœno vastaque voragine gurges Æstuat, atque omnem Cocyto eructat arenam. Portitor has horrendus aquas & flumina servat Terribili squallore Charon, cui plurima mento Canicies inculta jacet_—— Æn. vi.

Hence the way leads to Fereby forlorn, Where Ankham’s oozy flood with hideous roar Tears up the sands and sluices ruin’d vaults. A squalid Charon the dread ferry plies In leaky scull, whose furrow’d cheeks lie deep With hoary beard insconc’d——

When we had mounted the precipice again from the water, and paid our naul to the inexorable ferryman, we had several clayey lakes to ride over, unpassable in winter. Two roads[85] lead you to the town, a sorry ragged place, where upon the stocks is wrote, _Fear God, honour the King_. The church is set respecting no points of the compass, and just under the side of a precipice, so that you may almost leap from it upon the steeple: when we climbed the hill, it was a long while before we could find the way to Barton; and scarce could the people direct us to it, though but two miles off: at length, after wandering some time backward and forward, we hit upon the road, and, as men escaped the Stygian pool, with pleasure surveyed Barton, riding all the way through corn-fields, overlooking the Humber and Hull. Barton from hence makes a pretty prospect, having two churches, several mills, and the houses pleasantly intermixed with trees. This hill is wholly chalk, and answered on the opposite shore by another of the same nature. This is at present the passage across the Humber to Yorkshire, and we pleased ourselves at this time only with the distant view of it, and the neighbouring Hull: we could see the flag upon the castle.

[Sidenote: +Barrow.+ British _temple_.]

[Sidenote: TAB. XVIII. 2d Vol.]

At Barrow we were surprised with a castle, as the inhabitants call it, upon the salt marsh: upon view of the works I wondered not that they say it was made by Humber when he invaded Britain, in the time of the Trojan Brutus; for it is wholly dissonant from any thing I had seen before: but after sufficient _examen_ I found it to be a temple of the old Britons, therefore to be referred to another occasion. A little eastward hence we visited Thornton college, a great abbey founded by William le Gros earl of Albemarle 1139, the gate-house is very perfect; a vast tower, or castle, wherein all methods of Gothic architecture for offence and defence are employed: there is a great ditch before it, across which a bridge with walls on each hand, and arches that support a broad battlement to defend the access: before it two low round towers: this stands oblique to the building, like the bridge at the tower-gate, the better to keep off assailants by arrows shot through many narrow loop-holes: there was a portcullis at the great gate, and behind it another gate of oak: there are no windows in front: over it are three old clumsy statues in as ordinary niches: a woman seeming a queen, or the virgin Mary: to the right, a man with a lamb; I suppose, St. John baptist: to the left, a bishop or abbot with a crosier: the lamb is introduced in several other places: in the battlements above the gate are the figures of men cut in stone, as looking down: on both sides this tower goes a strong wall embattled, supported by internal arches, with towers at proper distances: along the ditch within the gate are spacious rooms and stair-cases of good stone and rib-work arches. Upon taking down an old wall there, they found a man with a candlestick, table and book, who was supposed to have been immured. When you enter the spacious court, a walk of trees conducts you to the ruins of the church: part of the south-east corner is left between the choir and transept, and behind that some of the chapter-house, which was octagonal: the whole plan of the church is easily discoverable, and round about it the foundations of a quadrangle, and lodgings, to the south of which now stands a dwelling-house, which I suppose was the abbot’s lodge: here are great moats and fish-ponds, subterraneous vaults and passages; the whole monastery being encompassed by a deep ditch and high rampart, to secure the religious from robbers, because near the sea. A mile east of Thornton are the ruins of another great castle, called Kelingholme. In Goswel parish northward is Burham, a chapel now become a farm-house, which belonged to the monastery: in the same parish, near the Humber, is Vere court, which belonged to the ancient family of that name. Good land hereabouts, well wooded: they find Roman coins all about. Two miles west of Thornton is a great Roman camp, called Yarborough, which surveys the whole hundred denominated from it, and all the sea-coast. Vast quantities of Roman coins have been found here: Mr. Howson, of Kenington hard by, has pecks of them, many of Licinius.[86]

[Sidenote: +Yarborough.+ Ro. _town_.]

Hence we journeyed to Caster, upon another ridge of the downs, running north and south, slaunting off eastward to the sea, and steep all the way westward, reaching from the Humber to the Witham below Lincoln: a vein of sand again, and alike stocked with rabbets, answering to that on the other side the Ankham at Sandton, but a little more southward. From the hill just above Caster you have an admirable prospect both east and west; this way to the mouth of the Humber, the Spurnhead promontory, the Sunk island, and the whole country of Holderness in Yorkshire; that way, all the sea-coast of Lincoln stretched out in a long bow, jutting into the sea, full of creeks and harbours: south and west the whole county of Lincoln lies under the eye; but the height of Lincoln minster particularly pleases, which is here seen by the edge of the cliff south of Caster, and presents a very romantic landscape.

[Sidenote: +Caster.+ Ro. _town_.]

[Sidenote: TAB. XIX. 2d Vol.]

[Sidenote: TAB. XX. 2d Vol.]