Part 1

ITINERARIUM CURIOSUM: OR, AN ACCOUNT OF THE ANTIQUITIES, AND REMARKABLE CURIOSITIES IN NATURE +OR+ ART, OBSERVED IN TRAVELS THROUGH GREAT BRITAIN.

ILLUSTRATED WITH COPPER PLATES.

CENTURIA I.

THE SECOND EDITION, WITH LARGE ADDITIONS.

By WILLIAM STUKELEY, M.D. F.R. & A.S.

_O Patria, O Divûm domus, Albion, inclyta bello! O quam te memorem, quantum juvat usque morari Mirarique tuæ spectacula plurima terræ!_

LONDON: Printed for Messrs. +Baker+ and +Leigh+, in York-Street, Covent-Garden. M.DCC.LXXVI.

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

PREFACE ITER DOMESTICUM. I. 1 ITER OXONIENSE. II. 34 ITER CIMBRICUM. III. 51 ITER SABRINIUM. IV. 62 ITER ROMANUM. V. 75 ITER DUMNONIENSE. VI. 134 ITER SEPTIMUM ANTONINI AUG. VII. 176 THE PLATES INDEX

PREFACE.

The intent of this Treatise is to oblige the curious in the Antiquities of Britain: it is an account of places and things from inspection, not compiled from others’ labours, or travels in one’s study. I own it is a work crude and hasty, like the notes of a traveller that stays not long in a place; and such it was in reality. Many matters I threw in only as hints for further scrutiny, and memorandums for myself or others: above all, I avoided prejudice, never carrying any author along with me, but taking things in the natural order and manner they presented themselves: and if my sentiments of Roman stations, and other matters, happen not to coincide with what has been wrote before me; it was not that I differ from them, but things did not so appear to me. The prints, beside their use in illustrating the discourses, are ranged in such a manner as to become an index of inquiries for those that travel, or for a British Antiquary. I shall probably continue this method at reasonable intervals. The whole is to invite Gentlemen and others in the country, to make researches of this nature, and to acquaint the world with them: they may be assured, that whatever accounts of this sort they please to communicate to me, they shall be applied to proper use, and all due honour paid to the names of those that favour me with a correspondence so much to the glory and benefit of our country, which is my sole aim therein.

It is evident how proper engravings are to preserve the memory of things, and how much better an idea they convey to the mind than written descriptions, which often not at all, oftener not sufficiently, explain them: beside, they present us with the pleasure of observing the various changes in the face of nature, of countries, and the like, through the current of time and vicissitude of things. These embellishments are the chief _desiderata_ of the excellent Mr. Camden’s _Britannia_, and other writers of this sort, whose pens were not so ready to deliver their sentiments in lines as letters: and how hard it is for common artificers to draw from mere description, or to express well what they understand not, is obvious from our engravings in all sciences. I am sensible enough, that large allowances must be made for my own performances in this kind, and some for the artificers parts therein, who, for want of more practice in such works, cannot equal others abroad. I know not whether it will be an excuse, or a fault, if I should plead the expedition I used in the drawing part; but I may urge, that a private person, and a moderate fortune, may want many useful assistants and conveniences for that purpose. It is enough for me to point them out; to show things that are fine in themselves, and want little art to render them more agreeable, or that deserve to be better done; or any way to contribute toward retrieving the noble monuments of our ancestors; in which case only, we are behind other the learned nations in Europe. It is not that we have a less fund of curiosities than they, were the description of them attempted by an abler hand, and more adequate experience.

Two or three of the plates are inserted only as heads, being not referred to in the discourse, as Tab. VIII. the ground-plot of the ruins of Whitehall. I myself never saw the palace, but was pleased that I chanced to take this draught of its ruinous ichnography, but the very week before totally destroyed. Thus much I thought owing to the venerable memory of that name, which is ever the word at sea with British ships, and which makes the whole world tremble. Tab. X. is an ancient seal of the bishops of Norwich.[1] This plate the learned and curious Mr. le Neve, Norroy king at arms, lent me out of his good will to promote the work: the seal is remarkable for having letters upon the edge, represented in the empty ringlet; the manner of it is like our milled money; but how it was performed in wax, is not easy to say. Tab. XV. was likewise lent me by Mr. Norroy abovesaid. I design always, in these collections of mine, to insert one plate in a hundred, of some person’s _effigies_ that has deserved well of the antiquities of Britain: it is but a just piece of gratitude to their memory. Tab. XL. (the Greek view at Athens) I took from an original drawing in Mr. Talman’s collection. I have some more of that sort: though they relate not to Britain, I do not fear the reader will be displeased with me on that account. How much rather ought we to lament the scarcity of such! What noble monuments of Greece are sunk into eternal oblivion, through want of Drawing in travellers that have been there in great numbers, or for want of encouragement to those that are able! With what regret do I mention that most beautiful temple of Minerva in the citadel of Athens, without dispute the finest building upon the globe, _anno_ 1694! that year it was casually blown up with gunpowder, and not a drawing of it preserved.

The last plate, of the great conjunction of the five planets, I added as an _æra_ of my book. This memorable appearance, because it affected not the vulgar like a solar eclipse, was almost neglected by the learned. I had a mind to do it justice by printing the type of it from the diagram sent me by the great Dr. Halley. For my part, I congratulate myself for living in an age fruitful of these grand phænomena of the celestial bodies, and am pleased, that beside the total eclipse 1715, we have in the space of two years this great conjunction, a transit of Mercury across the sun, a comet, the last eclipse of the sun, and in March next another great conjunction.

The numerous plates I have given the reader, of ground-plots and prospects of Roman cities, I thought contributed much towards fixing their site, and preserving their memory: they may be useful to curious inhabitants, in marking the places where antiquities are found from time to time, and in other respects. There are some few errors of the press escaped me, notwithstanding all my care; but none, I think, of any consequence. I have taken care to make the Index as instructing as I could. The title of _Roman roads_ belongs to such as are anonymous, or not commonly taken notice of: that of _Roman coins_ points to such places as are not Roman towns, or particularly described. _Etymology_ includes only such words as are scattered casually in the work, or matters that are not comprehended under any other head; and so of the rest.

One general observation I have made within the short space of time my travels were limited to, that husbandry, grazing, cultivation of waste lands, all sorts of trades and manufactures, towns and cities, are hugely improved; and especially the multitude of inhabitants is increased to a high proportion: the reason of it is not difficult to be guessed at.

What I shall next trouble the reader withall, will be my intended work, of the history of the ancient Celts, particularly the first inhabitants of Great Britain, which for the most part is now finished. By what I can judge at present, it will consist of four books in folio. I. The history of the origin and passage of the Celts from Asia into the west of Europe, particularly into Britain; of their manners, language, &c. II. Of the religion, deities, priests, temples, and sacred rites, of the Celts. III. Of the great Celtic temple at Abury in Wiltshire, and others of that sort. IV. Of the celebrated Stonehenge. There will be above 300 copper plates of a folio size, many of which are already engraven; and many will be of much larger dimensions. Upon account, therefore, of the vast expence attending this work, I shall print no more than are subscribed for; the money to be paid to me only. Thus much I thought fit to advertise the friendly reader.

_Ormond-street, 26 Dec. 1724._

GULIELMO STUKELEY, _M. D._

_Amicus Amico_, &c.

_Lubrica Romani dum Tu monumenta pererras Nominis, & tacito saecula lapsa pede: Docte opifex, variis seu vim sermonibus addas, Seu placet artifici pagina picta manu; Quanta vetustatis summae miracula promis, Obrutaque indigno moenia celsa situ! Vindice Te, fossas video procedere longas. Per loca constratum devia ducit iter. Nunc via sublimi conscendit vertice montes, Flumina declivis nunc per aperta ruit. Castra quot immenso retegis constructa labore? Et tua non sinit ars oppida posse mori. Hic mira antiquae pendent compagine portae, Hic tremulo fulget lumine grata pharos. Celsior exsurgit chartis Romana potestas Clara tuis; ultro est fassa ruina decus. Ecce iterum ingenti pandunt curvamine sedes, Et plausu resonant amphitheatra novo. Roma triumphato jamdudum languida mundo Nequicquam invictam se superesse dolet. Nec te dira cohors morborum sola tremiscit, Ast tempus medicas sentit inerme manus. Quantum Roma tibi, quantum Brittannia debet. O ingens patriae, Romulidumque decus! Accipe Phoebea merito dignissime lauro, Sint, quæ das aliis, saecula sera tibi._

I. S.

GULIELMO STUKELEY, _M. D._ &c.

_Nec sola est medicina Tui, sed Apolline dignam Artem omnem recolis, mente, manuque potens. Non modo restituis senio morbisque gravatos, Ad vitam reddis sæcla sepulta diu. Te Lindensis ager gestit celebrare nepotem, Quæque dedit, patriæ lumina grate refers._

GEOR. LYNN, Interior. Templ. Soc.

In Itinerarium Curiosum amici sui charissima viri doctissimi & Cl. Domini +Gulielmi Stukeleii+ M. D. CML. SRS. & Antiquar. Secretar.

_O Jane bifrons! Temporis inclyte Vindex remoti, de superis videns Post terga solus, nunc adesto et Egregium tueare amicum Opusque. templi janua sit tui Serata, dum ex bis nostra quietior Discat juventus, quid avorum Indomitæ potuere dextræ. Quicquid Britannus ferre recusans Servile collo Romulidum jugum, Terra sua contentus egit, Artibus ingenitis beatus. Quicquid Quirites gentibus asperis Cultu renidens tradere providi: Victoriam, Musasque & artes, Arma simul rapiente dextra. Nec vestra omittit pagina Saxonem Sicâ timendum, relligionibus Valde revinctum: bellicosis Horribilemve Dacum carinis. Nec tu recondis facta silentio Præclara Normanni immemor inclyti; Quorum omnium est imbutus Anglus Sanguine, moribus, & vigore. Quæ mira doctus condidit artifex Excelsa prisci mœnia seculi, Quæ strata, pontes, templa, castra, Amphitheatra, asarota, turres! Plaudit sibi jam magna Britannia Antiqua splendet gloria denuo. Chartis resurgit Stivecleji Celsa canens iterum triumphos._

MAUR. JOHNSON, J. C. Interioris Templi Soc. +MDCCXXIV.+

In +Stukelejanas+ Antiquitates.

_Deperditorum restitutor Temporum Et veritatis in tenebris abditæ Scrutator eruditus, arte quâ mirâ valet! Retegit vetustum quicquid obscuro sinu Abscondit Ævum. Tempus, hic aciem tuæ Falcis retundit invidam: frustra omnia Comples ruinis. jam tuæ pereunt minæ. Ipsæ perire nam ruinæ nesciunt._ M. M.

Ad +Itinerarii Curiosi+ auctorem.

_Quantum Roma tibi, et Romana Britannia debet, Ingenui Vates, Vir celebrande, canant. Me nec Roma modos suaves, nec Celtica tellus Argutæ docuit stringere fila lyræ. Muneris hoc igitur vani cur hybrida tentem Normannus, Cimber, Saxo, Britannus ego? Musa negat, Natura negat, sed suggerit unus Qualiacunque potest carmina noster Amor._

_Gratulor inceptum tibi nobile, gratulor illis, Inter quos nomen glorior esse meum: Qui patriæ priscas arteis, loca, nomina, & ipsas Relliquias sancta relligione colunt; Quo brevis ostendis conclusus limite campi, Limite quam nullo clauditur ingenium. Quòque tuos sensus permulcet amore_ +Vetustas+, _Qui nullos casus, ardua nulla fugis. Per salebras asp’ras, per tortas ambitiones, Et cæcos calles, improbe, carpis_ +Iter+. _Stagna lacúsque inter, limosáque pascua Lindi, Romanæ explorans avia strata viæ. Hic ubi sorte dolens, pelagi tot jugera rector Æquoris herbosi non sua, rapta tenet. Plura quidem tenuit, sed jussit Jupiter acres Martigenas patrui vim cohibere sui. Haud secus ac jussi faciunt, partémque receptam Terreni, ut par est, æquoris esse jubent. Cætera raptori quæ nunc manet Ennosigæo, Si quibus est armis, est repetenda tuis. Qui terræ pelagíque adeo declivia monstras, Et quò præcipites Nereus urget equos; Tanta mathematicis se tollit gloria vestra Artibus; at numeris grandior illa meis. Me rapit addictum veterum admiratio rerum, Plenáque deliciis pagina quæque suis. Tu monumenta pius, monumentis adstruis ipsis, Perdita quæ fuerant, posse perire vetans. Quid referam quantum tibi debet Classicus auctor, Qui priscas urbes, castràque prisca doces? Mercator siccis quærens adamantas in oris, Non tam conductam versat avarus humum, Quam tu cum nummos, urnas, & cætera signa Antiquæ effodias indubitata notæ. Nomina, quæ fuerant olim, Romana reducis, Perdita restituens, obsolefacta novans. Nec te, antiquarum tam mira peritia vocum est, Fallunt Teutonici, barbaricique soni. Historiam quantum decoras, si dicere vellem, Historiam videar scribere, non literas._

_Tu das præteritis veluti præsentibus uti, Et redeunt scriptis secula lapsa tuis. Detrahis ancipiti Jano mirabile monstrum, Et recta facie cernere cuncta jubes. Sed dum commendo tua, carmine digna Maronis. Ingenii culpâ detero, scripta, mei. Macte tua virtute esto, patriamque quotannis Quo pede cæpisti demereare._ Vale.

R. AINSWORTH.

To Dr. +Stukeley+, upon his _Itinerarium Curiosum_.

Hail, Baxter lives! in each descriptive page Are seen the labours of the Roman age: What ere the sons of Rome or Albion knew, We here discern at one compendious view. Thus taught we pass the Caledonian flood, Or fertile plains that smile from Cimbric blood: Where Vaga’s streams glide murmuring near the tomb, } (Darksome recess) where mighty Chiefs of Rome } Have slumber’d ages in its silent gloom: } Where airy lamps the distant sailor guide, Or where the labour’d arch deceives the tide: Where Geta kept the Belgic youth in awe, Or where Papinian gave the Roman law. Pleas’d I behold Sabrina’s silver stream, Or hear the murmurs of the doubtful Teme. With you, methinks, from Cred’nil I survey Th’ important conflict of the furious day: See, see! Frontinus fierce in armour shine, Where the war burns upon the vale of Eigne. Here on the plains of Aricon we learn Life’s various period from the peaceful urn. Yon hoary Druids pray celestial aid, Where sacred oaks diffuse a solemn shade; Each branch aspiring to the blest abode Lifts up the vows of Britain to the God. Go on, my friend! the curious theme pursue, } The mystic scenes of early time review, } And tell Britannia, Baxter lives in you. }

JAMES HILL, J. C. _Middle-Temple, London, Dec. 1. 1724._

ITINERARIUM CURIOSUM, &c.

ITER DOMESTICUM. I.

_I, fuge, sed poteras tutior esse domi._ +Mart.+

_To_ MAURICE JOHNSON, Jun. _Esq._

_Barrister at Law of the_ Inner-Temple.

The amity that long subsisted between our families giving birth to an early acquaintance, a certain sameness of disposition, particularly a love to antient learning, advanced our friendship into that confidence, which induces me to prefix your name to this little summary of what has occurred to me worth mentioning in our native country, HOLLAND, in Lincolnshire; but chiefly intended to provoke you to pursue a full history thereof, who have so large a fund of valuable papers and collections relating thereto, and every qualification necessary for the work. That these memoirs of mine are so short, is because scarce more time than that of childhood I there spent, and when I but began to have an inclination for such enquiries: that the rest which follow are grown to such a bulk as to become the present volume, is owing to my residence at London. Great as are the advantages of this capital, for opportunities of study, or for the best conversation in the world, yet I should think a confinement to it insupportable, and cry out with the poet,

_Invideo vobis agros, formosaque prata._ Virg.

I envy you your fields and pastures fair.

which engages me to make an excursion now and then into the country: and this is properly taking a review of pure nature; for life here may be called only artificial, especially when fixed down to it; like the gaudy entries upon a theatre, where a pompous character is supported for a little while, and then makes an exit soon forgotten. My ancestors, both paternal and maternal, having lived, from times immemorial, in or upon the edges of our marshy level, perhaps gave me that melancholic disposition, which renders the bustlings of an active and showy life disagreeable. The fair allurements of the business of a profession, which have been in my road, cannot induce me wholly to forsake the sweet recesses of contemplation, that real life, that tranquillity of mind, only to be met with in proper solitude; where I might make the most of the pittance of time allotted by Fate, and if possible doubly over enjoy its fleeting space. I own a man is born for his country and his friends, and that he ought to serve them in his best capacity; yet he confessedly claims a share in himself: and that, in my opinion, is enjoying one’s self; not, as the vulgar think, in heaping up immoderate riches, titles of honour, or in empty, irrational pleasures, but in storing the mind with the valuable treasures of the knowledge of divine and human things. And this may in a very proper sense be called the study of Antiquities.

[Sidenote: _Of the study of_ +Antiquities+.]

I need not make an apology to you for that which some people of terrestrial minds think to be a meagre and useless matter; for truly what is this study, but searching into the fountain-head of all learning and truth? Some antient philosophers have thought that knowledge is only reminiscence. If we extend this notion no further than as to what has been said and done before us, we shall not be mistaken in asserting that the past ages bore men of as good parts as we: enquiry into their thoughts and actions is learning; and happy for us if we can improve upon them, and find out things they did not know, by help of their own clue. All things upon this voluble globe are but a succession, like the stream of a river: the higher you go, the purer the fluid, less tainted with corruptions of prejudice or craft, with the mud and soil of ignorance. Here are the things themselves to study upon; not words only, wherein too much of learning has consisted. If we examine into the antiquities of nations that had no writing among them, here are their monuments: these we are to explore, to strike out their latent meaning; and the more we reason upon them, the more reason shall we find to admire the vast size of the gigantic minds of our predecessors, the great and simple majesty of their works, and wherein mainly lies the beauty and the excellence of matters of antiquity. But more especially it is not without a happy omen, that the moderns have exerted themselves in earnest, to rake up every dust of past times, moved by the evident advantages therefrom accruing, in the understanding their invaluable writings, which have escaped the common shipwreck of time. It is from this method we must obtain an accurate intelligence of those principles of learning and foundations of all science: it is from them we advance our minds immediately to the state of manhood, and without them the world 5000 years old would but begin to think like a child. Nothing more illustrates this than looking into the comments that were wrote upon them 200 years ago, voluminous enough, but barbarous, poor, and impertinent, when compared to the solid performances of learned men since, whose heads were enriched with an exact search into the customs, manners and monuments of the writers. Hence it is, that history, geography, mathematics, philosophy, the learned professions, law, divinity, our own faculty, and the muses in general, flourish like a fresh garden richly watered and cultivated, weeded from rubbish of logomachy and barren mushrooms, gay with thriving and beautiful plants of true erudition, inoculated upon the stocks of the antients.

[Sidenote: _Of_ +Britain+.]