Chapter 23
Pisa offers to the visitor four interesting architectural monuments in the Duomo, the Baptistery, the Leaning Tower, and the Campo Santo, all of which are unique. The cathedral has unique designs in its black and white marbles that render it almost as much an object of artistic study as is the cathedral in Siena. The view from the summit of the Leaning Tower reveals the Mediterranean six miles in the distance, gleaming like a sea of silver. The Campo Santo dates from the thirteenth century, when the earth of which it is composed was brought (in 1228) from the holy places in Jerusalem, conveyed to the city (then a seaport) by fifty galleys sent out by the Republic of Pisa. The interior walls of the Campo Santo are covered with fresco paintings by Orcagna which are one of the artistic spectacles of the country in their extravagant portrayal of theological beliefs, so realistically presented in their dramatic scenes from Paradise and from Hades, as to leave nothing to the imagination. The fantasies in this emblematic sculpture of memorial monuments over a period of seven hundred years can be seen in the Campo Santo of Pisa,--a strange and often a most grotesque medley.
Genoa is well named La Superba. Her thoroughfares are streets of palaces. Her terraced gardens and villas, reached by the subterranean funicular street railway, are regions of unique and incomparable beauty, with the blue Mediterranean at their feet. Genoa is the paradise for walking. The streets are largely inaccessible to carriages, but the admirable street electric railway penetrates every locality. It passes in dark tunnels under the hills, reappears on the high terraces, and climbs every height. From the crest of one of these Corsica can often be seen. All the hill-slopes are a dream of pictorial grandeur, with their terraces, their palaces, their sculpture, fountains, and flowers. On the summit of almost every hill there is a fortress, and often ramparts which are silhouetted, in dark masses, against the sky. Orange groves abound on the terraces, often showing the golden fruit, buds, and blossoms all at the same time.
Genoa is fairly a metropolis of sculpture. The great families have themselves perpetuated in portrait statues rather than in painted portraits. In one of the grand ducal palaces in the Via Balbi the visitor may see, not only the life-size statues and the busts of the family ancestry, but one group comprising nine figures, where three generations are represented, in both sitting and standing poses, ingeniously combined.
The churches of Genoa are among the richest in Europe. That of the Annunziata, the special monument of the Lomellini family, glitters and gleams with its gold ceilings and rich frescoes. The cathedral has the special allurement of the emerald dish which King Solomon received as a gift from the Queen of Sheba. The little "street of the jewellers" is an alluring place,--so narrow that one can almost stand in the centre of the road and touch the shop windows on either hand, and these windows dazzle the eye with their fascinating glitter of gold and silver filigree work and their rich jewels.
Beyond all other curious excursions that even a Magic Land can offer is that to the Campo Santo of Genoa. A cloistered promenade encloses a square, and above are terraced colonnades, each and all revealing statues, and monuments, and groups of sculpture whose varied beauty, oddity, or bizarre effects are a curious study. Some memorials--as one of an angel with outstretched wings; another of a flight of angels bearing the soul away; another combining the figure of Christ with the cross, and angels hovering near--are full of beauty. Others are a marvel of ingenious and incongruous combination. One of the latter represents the man whose memory it commemorates as lying on his bed in his last illness; the physician stands by, his fingers on the patient's pulse; on the opposite side a maid is approaching with a dish holding some article of food, and near the physician are grouped the wife, with a little child clinging to her skirts; the son, holding his hat with both hands and looking down on it, and the daughter, a young girl, with her eyes raised to heaven. Each of these figures is in life size; the bed is reproduced in marble, with the pillows and all the coverings in the most absolute realism, and the entire effect is so startling in its bizarre aspect that one could hardly believe in its existence until by personal observation he had verified so singular a monument.
Yet there is beauty and symbolic loveliness, too, in many of the memorial sculptures of this Campo Santo, and turning away from this cemetery in which lies the body of the noble Mazzini, one hears on the air the refrain of his words on Dante:--
"It appeared to him of more importance to hasten to accomplish his mission upon earth, than to meditate upon the inevitable hour which marks for all men the beginning of a new task. And if at times he speaks of weariness of life, it is only because he sees evil more and more triumphant in the places where his mission was appointed. He concerned himself, not about the length or the shortness of life, but about the end for which life was given; for he felt God in life, and knew the creative virtue there is in action."
Eighty thousand people followed Mazzini to his tomb, and his name lives in the Italy of to-day as one to be associated with that of Dante as prophet and inspirer.
The enchantment of approaching Genoa from the sea at night is an experience to remain as one of the pictorial treasures of memory. The magnificent _lanterna_, the lighthouse with its revolving light, that can be seen for fifty miles out from the coast; the brilliant illumination defining the _fortezza_ on the summit of one hill; the curving lights of the terraced residential district and the illumination of the very forest of shipping clustered in the bay,--all combine into a scene not easily effaced from the memories of foreign scenes.
It is only in close relations with Italian literature that Italy can be adequately enjoyed and that the sojourner may enter into sympathetic associations with contemporary Italian life. Dr. Richard Garnett believes that the literature of Italy "is a less exhaustive manifestation than elsewhere of the intellect of the nation," and that "the best energies of the country are employed in artistic production. It is, indeed, remarkable," he continues, "that out of the nine Italians most brilliantly conspicuous in the first rank of genius and achievement,--Aquinas, Dante, Columbus, Leonardo, Michael Angelo, Raphael, Titian, Galileo, Napoleon,--only one should have been a man of letters."
Contemporary Italian literature follows the trend of the day in reflecting the life of the people. The novels of Fogazzaro, the poems of Carducci, the biography and history written by Villari, to say nothing of several other writers who, while not approaching these authors, have still a definite place in the literature of the present, offer illumination on the outer scenery of life, and offer interpretation of the life itself. Art has declined; literature has advanced in Italy, even within the past decade. The law of progress is as inevitable as is the law of gravitation.
"Onward the chariot of the Unvarying moves; Nor day divulges him nor night conceals; Thou hear'st the echo of unreturning hooves, And thunder of irrevocable wheels."
The future of Italy inspires faith in the renewal of its noblest ideals of achievement. Its ineffable beauty is a heritage of joy to every visitor who comes under the indescribable spell of its attraction and finds that, in all the panorama of foreign life which haunts his memory, it is Italy which shines resplendent as the Magic Land!
INDEX
Accademia des Arcades, Rome, 334.
Accadémia di San Luca, oldest art school, 44; location of, 45; galleries of, 46, 47, 48.
Acqua Sacra, 428.
Akers, Paul, in Rome, 10; early death of, 53; work of, 54, 55; quoted, 56; Hawthorne's estimate of, 57.
Aldrich, Thomas Bailey, quoted, 387.
Allen, Elizabeth Akers, quoted, 53.
Amalfi, 253-257; destruction of, 258, 259.
Ambrosian library, Milan, 449.
American Academy, Rome, 214.
American Embassy, Rome, location of, 153; ball at, 164-167; receptions at, 169.
Anderson, Hendrick Christian, in Rome, 10.
Angelo, Michael, work of, 22, 23, 312; message of, 117; friendship with Vittoria Colonna, 290; Longfellow's poem on, 308-310; art of, 313, 314; quoted, 314, 316, 317, 318, 323; gift to Vittoria Colonna, 318; meeting with Francesco d'Ollanda, 322, 323, 324; Walter Pater's estimate of, 327, 328, 329.
Annunziata Cathedral, Genoa, 452.
Aquinas, Thomas, birthplace of, 276; tomb of, 331; monastery of, 333.
Aquinum, 277.
"Arcadians," meetings of, 150.
Ariosto, 306.
Art, as leader of popular taste, 115; inspired by religious ideals, 116; Renaissance in, 117; national importance of, 117; ignored, 118; relation to ugliness, 119; falseness of, 121; influence on life, 122; united with religion, 123.
Assisi, pilgrimage to, 341, 344; founding of, 345; points of interest in, 345, 346; Canon Knox Little's description of, 348; as a shrine, 385.
Assisi, Bishop of, 354, 364.
Assisi, St. Francis of, 123, 124; message of, 342; birthplace of, 345; impress of, 347; parents of, 348, 349; early life of, 350; legends regarding, 351; quoted, 352, 354, 356; supreme aim of, 353; Rule of, 353, 354; prayer of, 356; character of, 357; incident in early life of, 360; first ministry of, 363; first disciple of, 364; at the Portiuncula, 365; friendship with Clara, 365, 367, 368; legends regarding, 370; death of, 372; miracles of, 375; tomb of, 378.
Bagot, Richard, in Rome, 11, 13.
Baia, 241.
Baldwin, Rev. Dr., in Rome, 10, 171.
Ball, Thomas, work of, 52.
Balzac, quoted, 120.
Barberini, Cardinal, 72.
Baths of Caracalla, 139.
Baths of Diocletian, 184.
Bell, John, grave of, 216.
Bembo, Cardinal, 306.
Benedictines, 354, 365.
Benton, Dwight, grave of, 221; estimate of, 221.
Bernardino of Siena, 382, 383; quoted, 383.
Bernini, Lorenzo, work of, 22.
Besant, Mrs. Annie, 174.
Biblioteca Sarti, 48.
"Blacks," 145, 146.
Bologna, 450.
Bonaparte, Princess Christina, death of, 203.
Boni, Commendatore, opinion of, 244.
Boni, Giovanni M., 403.
Bronson, Mrs. Arthur, 409, 410.
Brooks, Rev. Phillips, in Rome, 15; quoted, 16, 39, 388, 394, 395.
Brownell, W. C., quoted, 96.
Browning, Elizabeth B., in Rome, 11; quoted, 60, 114, 125, 389; death of, 80, 408; meeting with Mrs. Bronson, 410, 411.
Browning Palace, 406, 410, 411, 412, 413.
Browning, Robert, quoted, 3, 407, 408; in Rome, 11, 70; in Venice, 406; death of, 408.
Browning, Miss Sarianna, 408, 413.
Buono, 236.
Byron, Lord, in Rome, 22; quoted, 22, 403.
Campagna, 73, 205.
Campanile, fall of, 406.
Campo Verano, 76.
Campo Santo of Pisa, 450, 451, 453.
Campidoglio, buildings on, 25.
Campriani, 237.
Canova, in Rome, 7; his genius, 33; masterpiece of, 42; realism of, 118.
Capella Sistina, 27.
Capo Miseno, 241.
Capri, island of, 262, 263, 264; roses of, 266.
Capuano, Cardinal, legends of, 256.
Capuccini, convent of, 255.
Carducci, 143.
Carter, Professor Jesse Benedict, in Rome, 169.
Carter, Mrs. Jesse Benedict, 34, 37, 169.
Casa Buonarroti, 312.
Casino Borghese, 185.
Castel d'Ischia, 292, 293, 294.
Castellammare, 250.
Castle Gandolfo, 286.
Castiglione, 306.
Cecioni's "La Madre," 121.
Cestius, Caius, tomb of, 215.
Channing, Grace Ellery, 10, 91.
Chapel of Holy Sacrament, 202.
Chateaubriand, in Rome, 21; quoted, 21.
Cicero's villa, remains of, 207.
Cimabue, 376, 378.
Cole, Thomas, in Rome, 9.
Coleman, Charles Caryl, home of, 263.
College of Cardinals, 435.
Colonna, Fabrizio, 290.
Colonna family, 285, 288, 289, 306, 307.
Colonna palace and gardens, 131.
Colonna, Vittoria, home of, 282; quoted, 283, 303; parents of, 285; early childhood of, 286, 288; horoscope of, 289; destiny of, 290; betrothal of, 290; marriage of, 294, 295; early married life of, 295, 296; quoted, 297, 298, 300, 303, 305, 319, 320, 321; in Pope Leo's court, 302; her husband's death, 302; removal of, 304; fame of, 306; return to Rome of, 307; Longfellow's picture of, 308, 309, 310, 325, 326, 327; travels of, 308, 311; her influence with Michael Angelo, 313; life in Rome and Orvieto, 314; receives letters and sonnet from Michael Angelo, 317; receives present from Michael Angelo, 318; arranges meeting of Michael Angelo and Francesco d'Ollanda, 322, 323, 324; Walter Pater's comments on, 328; death of, 329; last prayer of, 330; burial of, 331; tomb of, 332; bust of, 334; fame of, 335, 336; Margaret J. Preston's poem on, 337.
Condivi, quoted, 313.
Contarini, Cardinal, 306.
Corsini chapel, 152.
Crawford, Marion, in Rome, 11, 13.
Crawford, Thomas, in Rome, 49; career of, 51; poem on, 52.
Crow, Hon. Wayman, 61.
Cumæ, 241.
Cumæan Sibyl, 242.
da Bisticci, Vespasiano, 383.
Dalbano, Edoardo, 236.
Dana, Richard Henry, 219.
Dante, quoted, 267-270; Mazzini's estimate of, 454.
d'Avalos, Donna Constanza, 291.
d'Avalos, Francesco, 290, 294, 295.
De Castro, Consul General, in Rome, 169.
Decline of art, 31.
d'Ollanda, Francesco, 322-324.
del Val, Cardinal Merry, 146-149, 435.
del Vasto, Marchese, 299.
De Monici, chronicles of, 398.
de Staël, Mme., in Rome, 11, 22.
Dietsch, C. Percival, in Rome, 10.
di Francavilla, Duchess, 291-293.
di Mercanti, Pica, 349, 350.
di Mercanti, Pietro Bernardone, 348, 349.
di Pescara, Marchesa, 296, 298, 299, 300, 301, 302, 306, 311, 312, 322, 331, 332, 335.
di Pescara, Marchese, 292, 296, 299, 300, 301, 302, 303, 304, 331, 332.
Doges, Palace of, 400-403.
Dolce, Ludovico, 306.
Don Erasmo Gattola, 273.
Duca de Torlonia, family of, 205.
Duff, Lina Gordon, quoted, 374.
Dupaty, quoted, 16.
Duran, M. Carolus, in Rome, 166, 167.
Elena, Queen, 140, 142, 179.
Eliot, George, quoted, 252.
Emerson, Mary Moody, letters to, 12.
Emerson, Ralph Waldo, in Rome, 12; quoted, 85.
Emmons, Miss Elise, in Rome, 167.
Esposito, 237.
Ezekiel, Moses, in Rome, 10; studios of, 97.
Fawcett, Edgar, quoted, 417.
Ferrara, Duca and Duchessa of, 311.
Ferri, Signor Enrico, 436, 442; quoted, 442.
Festus, quoted, 30.
Field, Kate, in Rome, 12.
Florence, culture of, 430, 431.
Fra Ambrosia, 322.
Franciscan, 367.
Frascati, visited, 205.
Galileo, in Rome, 139, 445.
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, 448.
Garibaldi, villa of, 239.
Garnett, Dr. Richard, quoted, 456.
Genoa, 430; features of, 451; as a metropolis of sculpture, 452; churches of, 452; enchantment of, 455.
Ghiberto, Bishop, 311.
Gibson, John, in Rome, 10, 36; quoted, 34, 37, 59; grave of, 221.
Giotto, 376, 377, 379.
Giovio, Paolo, 306.
Gladstone, in Rome, 11.
Goethe, in Rome, 11, 20; quoted, 20.
Goethe, August, grave of, 216.
Goldoni, Carlo, centenary of, 413; memorial of, 414.
Good Friday, service in Rome, 200, 201.
Greenough, Horatio, in Rome, 10; work of, 49; death, 50.
Greenough, Mrs. Horatio, 335.
Greenough, Richard, in Rome, 10, 58; grave of, 217.
Greenough, Sarah B., tomb of, 218.
Grotto de Matrimonia, 263.
Grotto Ferrata, 209.
Guili, Commendatore Conte, 214.
Guthers, Carl, work of, 236.
Hare, Augustus William, grave of, 221.
Hawthorne, Nathaniel, quoted, 45, 57, 67, 195.
Healy, Mr., in Rome, 19.
Herculaneum, 242; excavations in, 244; Professor Spinazzola on, 242, 243; destruction of, 244; theatre in, 247.
Hillard, George Stillman, in Rome, 12; quoted, 23, 24, 51, 230, 248.
Holy Week, in Rome, 200.
Hosmer, Harriet, in Rome, 10, 59, 60, 61; work of, 62.
Howe, Dr. Samuel Gridley, in Rome, 12.
Howe, Julia Ward, in Rome, 12.
Howells, William Dean, in Rome, 13, 416.
Howitt, William and Mary, graves of, 216.
Hugo, Victor, 41.
Ischia, 281; romantic impressions of, 282; home of Vittoria Colonna, 282; the d'Avalos castle in, 291; as an enchanted island, 296; Vittoria's return to, 299, 305.
Italy, land of romance and song, 6; Mazzini's opinion of, 65; true life of, 423; as a youthful country, 424; relation with United States, 425; traveller in, 425; picture of idyllic days in, 427; approach to, 429; cities of, 429, 430; in the making, 431; politics of, 432; Socialistic uprising in, 433; taxation in, 436-438; railroads in, 439, 440; government of, 440, 441; future of, 444, 457; lakes of, 449; contemporary literature of, 456.
James, Henry, in Rome, 11, 13.
Jameson, Mrs., in Rome, 67; quoted, 193.
Johnson, Robert Underwood, quoted, 416, 421.
Juvenal, birthplace of, 277.
Keats, in Rome, 11, 132; memorial, 133; grave of, 216.
Kemble, Adelaide, in Rome, 68.
Kemble, Fanny, in Rome, 68.
Keynote of life, 359.
Khayyam, Omar, quoted, 1, 94.
Lacus Avernus, 240.
Lanciani, Professor, lectures by, 138, 139; opinion of, 244, 333.
Leaning Tower of Pisa, 450.
Libraries of Rome, 214, 223.
Lister, Mrs., in Rome, 172.
Liszt, Abbé, in Rome, 18, 19.
Little, Canon Knox, quoted, 347, 348, 376, 377, 380.
Lodge, Sir Oliver, quoted, 120.
Longfellow, Henry Wadsworth, in Rome, 12; quoted, 16, 17, 125, 253, 274, 279, 281, 308, 309, 310, 325, 327, 387.
Longfellow, Rev. Samuel, quoted, 18.
Lowell, James Russell, in Rome, 12.
Ludovisi collection, 185.
Luther, in Rome, 80; ascent of the Scala Santa, 156.
Margherita, Queen Mother, 140, 141; palace of, 142; quoted, 143; relations with artists, 144; at requiem mass, 179.
Marino, 286, 287.
Mazzini, 191, 192; quoted, 64, 422, 423, 444, 446; works of, 190, 191; estimate of, 191; tomb of, 454.
Mead, Larkin G., in Rome, 10; work of, 53.
Mediæval Museum of Rome, 139.
Meredith, Owen, quoted, 2.
Metella, Cecilia, tomb of, 145.
Milan, activity of, 430, 447; structures of, 448; Ambrosian library of, 449; as scientific centre, 450.
Mills, Clark, in Rome, 10.
Milton, in Rome, 11, 19.
Misenus, burial place of, 241.
Monte Aquino, 276.
Monte Cairo, 277.
Monte Cassino, 304.
Monte Catria, 348.
Monte Mario, 21, 133.
Monte Pincio, 188.
Monte San Mano, 304.
Morelli, Domenico, work of, 234, 235.
Moulton, Louise Chandler, in Rome, 13; quoted, 13, 14, 95, 267, 340.
Myers, Frederick W. H., memorial tablet to, 220.
Naples, described, 227-231; University of, 232; Museum, 233; natural attractions of, 237; hotels of, 238; Bay of, 265.
Nardi, Monsignore, in Rome, 18.
Nero's tomb, 78, 80.
Nisida, island of, 240.
Norton, Charles Eliot, quoted, 267.
Obelisk in Piazza del Popolo, 77.
Oldest art school, 44.
Oliphant, Mrs., quoted, 357, 368.
Orvieto, 314.
Osso, Professor Dall', opinion of, 244.
Oxenham, Rev. Dr. and Mrs. Nutcombe, in Rome, 171.
Pæstum, 260, 261.
Page de Conti, 337.
Page, William, in Rome, 66.
Palatine Hill, 13, 112.
Palazzo Barberini, 72, 90.
Palazzo Bernini, 32.
Palazzo Bonaparte, 203.
Palazzo Brandolin-Rota, 409.
Palazzo Cesarini, 314, 329.
Palazzo del Drago, 163, 164.
Palazzo di Capodimonte, 233.
Palazzo di Donna Ana, 239.
Palazzo Margherita, 142.
Palazzo Municipio, 384.
Palazzo Quirinale, 142, 143, 432.
Palazzo Rezzonico, 406.
Palazzo Senni, 172.
Palazzo Tamagno, 104.
Palazzo Vaticano, 27.
Pantheon, 177; ceremonies at, 179.
Papal supremacy, 432.
Parsons, Thomas William, quoted, 52, 276.
Pater, Walter, quoted, 327, 328.
Perugia, town of, 381-384.
Perugino, 384.
Petrarcha, 258, 259, 400.
Phlegræan Plain, 240.
Piazza Barberini, 18.
Piazza del Popolo, 76, 80, 134.
Piazza di Spagna, 70, 133, 146.
Piazza di Trinità, 133.
Piazza San Giovanni, 151.
Pietro da Cortona, work of, 194.
Pisa, architectural monuments of, 450.
Pistolesi, quoted, 43.
Pliny, the Younger, quoted, 244.
Poe, quoted, 136.
Pompeii, 243, 245, 248.
Pope Adrian, 302.
Pope Clement XII, tomb of, 152.
Pope Julius II, 23, 27, 28.
Pope Leo XII, 302.
Pope Leo XIII, tomb of, 154.
Pope Paschal, dream of, 157.
Pope Paul III, 313.
Pope Pio Nono, 64, 75.
Pope Pius X, 145, 147; "passage" of, 196, 197; ceremonial receptions of, 146; residence of, 432; character of, 434; dream of, 435.
Portiuncula, 365, 366.
Posilipo, 239.
Powers, Hiram, in Rome, 10; America's first sculptor, 49; work, 50.
Pratello, 237.
Preston, Margaret J., quoted, 280, 337.
Principessa d'Antuni, 163, 164.
Quattro Fontane, Via delle, 72.
Raphael, work of, 22, 46, 47, 79; genius of, 26; masterpieces of, 27; Franklin Simmons, opinion of, 29; inspiration of, 30; decline of art after, 31.
Ravello, Cathedral at, 260.
Ravenna, battle of, 296.
Read, Thomas Buchanan, in Rome, 67.
Realism, kinds of, 118.
_Regina Madre_, 140, 142.
Regio Palazzo del Quirinale, 143, 144.
Reid, Hon. Whitelaw, 105.
Reinhart, William, in Rome, 10.
Religion united with art, 123.
Renaissance in Italy, 117.
Richmond, Celia, 341.
Rocca di Papa, 287.
Rogers, Randolph, in Rome, 10; early death of, 53.
Roman environment, 93.
Rome, features of, 1; as artistic centre, 6, 10, 114; under Pontifical régime, 8; Longfellow's love for, 16; Goethe's impressions of, 20; work of Michael Angelo and Raphael in, 22; oldest art school of, 44; latter-day artists in, 49; Brownings in, 67; social life in, 113, 127; new bridge of, 128; in May, 129; in winter, 129, 130; in spring, 130, 132; festas in, 136; discussed by Professor Lanciani, 138; society in, 140, 141, 170; two courts of, 142; modern features of, 145; enchanting views in, 151; poetic symbolism in, 158-160; of the present day, breakfast-table talk in, 162; American Embassy in, 163; elevator service in, 164; American consulate in, 169; delightful hostesses in, 171, 172; attitude toward modern thought in, 173; Theosophical Society of, 173, 174; demand for apartments in, 175; sight-seeing in, 183; great palaces in, 187; famous drive of, 188; birthday celebrations of, 189; Republic of, 190; rich years to artists in, 192, 193; Papal ceremonies in, 195; curious spectacle in, 198; Holy Week in, 200; Good Friday service in, 200, 201; motoring from, 204, 205; outlying towns of, 207; American Academy in, 214; libraries of, 214; Protestant cemetery of, 215; literature of, 223; modern spirit in, 428.
Rosa, Salvator, 234.
Rosenkrans, Baroness, 173.
Rota, 329.
Ruskin, in Rome, 12; quoted, 398.
Sabatier, Paul, quoted, 362, 365.
Sallust, Gardens of, 140.
Salvatico, quoted, 401.
San Agostino, church of, 198.
San Caterina di Viterbo, 314.
San Francesco, church of, 345.
San Giovanni, 153.
San Marco, 394.
San Maria della Pace, 27.
San Maria dei Frari, 405.
San Silvestre, 32.
Sansovino, Jacob, work of, 399.
Santa Anna, convent of, 314.
Santa Chiara (Clara), 365; takes vows, 366, 367; founds convent, 368; family history of, 368; friendship with St. Francis of Assisi, 368; at death of Francis, 372; personality of, 373; preservation of body of, 374.
Santa Domenica Maggiore, church of, 303, 331, 333.
Santa Maria Degli Angeli, 345, 365, 380.
Santa Maria del Popolo, 78-80.
Santa Maria della Salute, 405.
Santa Monica, tomb of, 199.
Scala di Spagna, 72.
Scala Santa, 155; Luther's ascent of, 156.
Scifi, Count Favorini, 368.