CHAPTER XX

FROM THE ITALIAN LAKES TO THE RIVIERA

There is one delightful crossing of Italy which is not often made either by the automobilist or the traveller by rail. We found it a delightful itinerary, though in no respect did it leave the beaten track of well worn roads; simply it was a hitherto unthought of combination of highroads and byroads which led from Como, on the shores of its mountain lake, to Nice, the head centre of the Riviera, just across the Italian border in France, entering that land of good cooks and good roads (better cooks and better roads than are found in Italy, please remember) via the Col de Tende and the Custom House of San Dalmazzo.

The itinerary covers a length of 365 kilometres and all of it is over passably good roads, the crossing of the frontier and the Lower Alps at the Col de Tende being at a lower level than any other of the Franco-Italian mountain passes, although we encountered snow on the heights even in the month of May.

This route is a pleasant variation from the usual entrance and exit from Italy which the automobilist coming from the south generally makes via one of the high Alpine valleys. If one is bound Parisward the itinerary is lengthened by perhaps five hundred kilometres, but if one has not entered Italy by the Cote d'Azur and the Riviera gateway the thing is decidedly worth the doing.

Como itself is the head centre for this part of the lake region, but we used it only as a "pointe de départ." Cernobbio is far and away the best idling place on the Lago di Como and is getting to be the rival of Aix-les-Bains in France, already the most frequently visited automobile centre in Europe.

From Cernobbio to Como, swinging around the foot of the lake, is but a short six kilometres, and from the latter place the Milan road leaves by the old barbican gate and winds upwards steadily for a dozen kilometres, crossing the railway line a half a dozen times before Milan is reached.

The detour to Monza was made between Como and Milan, a lengthening of the direct route by perhaps a dozen kilometres, and the Strada Militaire, which joins with the Bergamo-Milan road, was followed into the Lombard capital through the Porto Orientale. The direct road, the post road from Como, enters the city by the Porta Nuova. There seems to be nothing to choose between the two routes, save that to-day one may be good and the other bad as to surface and six months later the reverse be the case.

On entering Milan one circles around the Foro Bonaparte and leaves the city by the Porta Magenta for Turin. Magenta, twenty-five kilometres; Novara, forty-six kilometres; so runs the itinerary, and all of it at the dead level of from 120 to 150 metres above the sea.

We were stoned at Novara and promptly made a complaint to the authorities through the medium of the proprietor of the Hotel de la Ville, where we had a most gorgeous repast for the rather high price of five francs a head. It was worth it, though, in spite of the fact that we garaged the automobile in the dining room where we ate. We got satisfaction, too, for the stoning by the sight of half a dozen small boys being hauled up to the justice, accompanied by their frightened parents. The outcome we are not aware of, but doubtless the hotel proprietor insisted that his clients should not be driven out of town in this manner, and, though probably no serious punishment was inflicted, somebody undoubtedly got a well-needed fright.

The road still continues towards Turin perfectly flat for a matter of a hundred kilometres beyond Novara, the glistening mountain background drawing closer and closer until one realizes to the full just why Turin and Milan are such splendid cities, an effect produced as much by their incomparable sites as by their fine modern buildings, their great avenues and boulevards, and their historic traditions.

This borderland between Lombardy and Piedmont forms the very flower of present day Italy. The diarist Evelyn remarked all this in a more appreciative manner than any writer before or since.

He wrote: "We dined at Marignano near Milan, a _grette cittie_ famous for a cheese a little short of the best Parmeggiano, where we met half a dozen suspicious cavaliers who yet did us no harm. Then passing through a continuous garden we went on with exceeding pleasure, for this is the Paradise of Lombardy, the highways as even and straight as a cord, the fields to a vast extent planted with fruit, and vines climbing every tree planted at equal distances one from the other; likewise there is an abundance of mulberry trees and much corn."

To arrive on the Riviera from Turin one leaves the roads leading to the high Alpine valleys behind. Directly north from Turin runs the highroad which ultimately debouches into the Val d'Aosta and the Saint Bernard Passes; to the west, those leading through Pinerolo and the Col de Sestrières and Susa and the Cols of Mont Genèvre and Mont Cenis.

Just out of Turin on the road to Cuneo (which is perhaps more often called by its French name, Coni, for you are now heading straight for the frontier, a matter of but a half a hundred kilometres beyond) is Moncalieri, the possessor of a royal chateau where was born, in 1904, Prince Humbert of Piedmont, the present heir to the Italian throne.

When Italy's present Queen Helena sojourned here after the birth of her son she took her promenades abroad _en automobile_ and so came to be a partisan of the new form of locomotion as already had the dowager Queen before her. The latter may properly enough be called the automobiling monarch of Europe for she is heard of to-day at Aix-les-Bains, to-morrow at Paris or Trouville and the week after at Pallanza or Cadennabia, and in turn in Spain, at Marienbad, Ostend, Biarritz or Nice, and she always travels by road, and at a good pace, too.

This up-to-date queen's predilection for the automobile in preference to the state coach of other days or the plebeian railway has doubtless had much to do with the development of the automobile industry in Italy. It has, too, made the gateway into Italy from the Riviera over the Col de Tende the good mountain road that it is. Those who pass this way--and it's the only way worth considering from the South of France to the Italian Lakes--will have cause to bless Italy's automobiling queen. The chiefs of state of Italy, France and Germany know how to encourage automobilism and all that pertains thereto better than those of Republican America or Monarchial Britain.

Carignano, twelve kilometres beyond Moncalieri, is famous for its silk industry and its beautiful women. We saw nothing of the former, but the latter certainly merit the encomium which has been bestowed upon them ever since the Chevalier Bayard remarked the _gentilezza_ and beauty of the widow Bianca Montferrat, and fought for her in a tournament centuries ago.

Carmagnola, a half a dozen kilometres off the direct road, just beyond Carignano, takes much the same rank as the latter place. Neither are tourist points to the slightest degree, but each is delightfully unworldly and give one glimpses of native life that one may find only in the untravelled _hinterland_ of a well known country. The peasant folk of Carmagnola are as picturesque and gay in their costume and manner of life as one can possibly expect to see in these days when manners and customs are changing before the new order of things. Here is the home of the celebrated Dance of the Carmagnole, a gyrating, whirling, dervish-like fury of a dance which makes a peasant girl of the country look more charming than ever as she swishes and swirls her yards of gold or silver neck beads in a most dazzling fashion. The French Revolution borrowed the "Carmagnole" for its own unspeakable orgies, by what right no one knows, for there is nothing outré about it when seen in its native land. Possibly some alien Savoyards, who may have joined their forces with the Marseilles Batallion, may have brought it to France with their light luggage--proverbially light, for the Savoyard has the reputation of always travelling with a bundle on a stick. Would that we touring automobilists could, or would, travel lighter than we do!

Racconigi, a half a dozen kilometres farther on, has another royal chateau, and, passing Saluzza, through the arch erected in memory of the marriage of Victor Amedeo and Christine of France, one arrives at Cuneo in thirty kilometres more. From Carmagnola to Cuneo direct, by Savigliano, is practically the same distance, but the other route is perhaps the more picturesque.

At Cuneo one has attained an elevation of some five hundred and thirty-five metres above sea level, the rise thence to the Col de Tende being eight hundred metres more, that is to say the pass is crossed at an elevation not exceeding 1,300 metres.

Cuneo's Albergo Barra di Ferro (a new name to us for a hotel) accommodates one for the price of five francs a day and upwards, and gives a discount of ten per cent. to members of the Touring Club Italiano. These prices will certainly not disturb any one who can afford to supply a prodigal automobile with tires at the present high prices.

We climbed up from Cuneo to the Col, a matter of thirty-three kilometres of a very easy rise, in something less than a couple of hours, the last six kilometres, the steepest portion, averaging but a five per cent. grade.

On leaving Cuneo the road ascends very gradually, running along the valley of the Vermagnana to the foot of the Col where it begins to mount in earnest. Below is the great plain of Piedmont watered by the Po and its tributary rivers, while above rises the mass of the Maritime Alps, with Mount Viso as its crowning peak, nearly four thousand metres high. It is a veritable Alpine road but not at all difficult of ascent. About midway on the height one remarks the attempt to cut a tunnel and thereby shorten the route, an attempt which was abandoned long years ago. From the crest, the Col itself, one gets a view ranging from Mont Viso to Mont Rosa in the north and on the south even to the blue waters of the Mediterranean. For fully a third of the year, and often nearer half, the Col de Tende is cursed with bad weather and is often impassable for wheeled traffic in spite of the fact of its comparatively low elevation. The wind storms here are very violent.

From Tende the road winds down into the low French levels, and in this portion takes rank as one of the earliest of Alpine roads, it having been built by Carlo Emanuele I in 1591.

Down through the valley of the Torrent of the Roya glides the mountain road and, passing San Dalmazzo and numerous rock villages, a distinct feature of these parts, in sixteen kilometres reaches Breil, the first place of note on French territory.

We had our "triptych" signed at the Italian dogana fifteen kilometres beyond the brow of the mountain, at San Dalmazzo di Tenda, crossing on to French soil three kilometres farther on. The French douane is at Breil, at the sixty-sixth kilometre stone beyond Cuneo, and at an elevation of less than three hundred metres above the sea. Here we delayed long enough to have the douaniers check off the number of the motor, the colour of the body work, the colour of the cushions and numerous other incidentals in order that the French government might not be mulcted a sou. "Everything in order. Allons! partez;" said the gold braided official, and again we were in France.

At Breil the road divides, one portion, following still the valley of the Roya, slopes down to Ventimiglia in twenty kilometres, the other, in forty kilometres, arriving at Nice via the valley of the Paillon.

It is not all down hill after Breil for, before Sospel is reached, seventeen kilometres away, one crosses another mountain crest by a fairly steep ascent and again, after Sospel, it rises to the Col di Braus--this time over the best of French roads--to an elevation of over one thousand metres.

From Sospel a spur road leads direct to Menton but the Grande Route leads straight on to Nice, shortly after to blend in with the old Route d'Italie, linking up Paris with the Italian-Mediterranean frontier, a straight away "good road," the dream of the automobilist, for a matter of 1,086 kilometres.

THE END.

Index

Abbey at Vallombrosa, 153

Acquasola, Park of, 101

Ad Confluentis, 65

Adda (Family of), 321

Adelphi, The (Secret Society), 39

Adriatic Sea, 16, 67, 163, 236, 237, 260, 283

Æmilia, 4, 271

Ætna, 11, 19

Agrippa, 211

Aiguebell, 6, 349

Albergo (See also Hotel), 48, 49 All'Accademia, 304 Arti, 270 Asolo, 295 Barra di Ferro, 367 Capello d'Oro, 318 del Cervo, 339 Delfino, 110 della Nuova York, 117 della Quercia, 198 del Sol, 217 Fanti-Stella d'Oro, 281 Grimaldi, 94 Guippone, 130 Italia, 115 Italia (at Urbino), 235 Unione, 105

Alassio, 91, 92

Alba Longa, 186

Alban Hills, 181, 189

Albano, 179, 181, 184, 185, 189, 197

Albano Lake, 184, 185, 186

Albaro, 106

Albenga, 66, 92, 93, 95

Albero d'Oro (See Palazzo Imperiali)

Albium Ingaunum, 66 Intermelium, 66

Alessandria, 333

Algeria, 15, 17

Alps, 7, 12, 17

Alps of Piedmont, 2, 15, 85

Amalfi, 2, 212, 219, 220, 224

Ambrosian Library, 336

Amelia, 66

Ampesso Pass, 294

Ancona, 2, 11, 67, 225, 226, 236, 238, 242, 243

Aosta, Valley of, 72

Aoste, 352, 358, 359

Apennines, The, 17, 65, 96, 117

Appian Way (See Via Appia)

Aquileja, 299

Arch of Triumph, 336

Arco d'Augusto, 245

Arcola, 116

Arcore, 321

Aretino, Guido, 155

Aretium, 160

Arezzo, 7, 11, 70, 138, 153, 156, 159, 160, 161, 231

Ariminum, 64, 65

Ariosto, 253, 255, 271

Arma, 90

Arno, The (River), 124, 125, 127, 159, 160, 163

Arno, Valley of the, 124, 156

Arona, 73, 327, 332

Asinalunga, 166

Asolo, 295, 297

Assisi, 228, 230

Asti, 333

Augustus, Tower of, 86

Averso, 199

Avezzano, 225, 226

Azeglio, Massimo d', 139

Bacciochi, Eliza (Princess of Lucca), 123

Baies, 211

Baptistery, The, of Pisa, 126

Barberino di Mugello, 11, 26

Bargello, at Florence, 162

Bari, 237, 238, 241

Barletta, 238

Basilicate, Province of, 36

Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli, 229

Baveno, 327

Bay of Naples, 13, 54, 207, 209, 211, 213, 220

Bellagio, 321, 325

Bellay, Cardinal du Joachim, 6

Bellinzona, 345

Belluno, 294, 295, 325

Bergamo, 317, 318, 319, 350

Bernadino, 75

Bertolini, 105

Biarritz, 3

Bibbiena, 156, 161, 162

"Blue Grotto," 223

Bologna, 6, 19, 61, 65, 160, 251, 265-269, 277

Bononia, 65, 160, 268

Bordighera, 86, 87

Borghese, Family of, 187

Borgia (Family of), 5, 176, 227, 244, 253, 261, 262, 263, 264

Borgo San Donino, 65, 274

Borromean Islands, 327

Botticelli, 14

Bourbons, 40

Breil, 369

Brescia, 72, 315, 317, 318, 333

Brescia Armata, 315, 316

Briançon, 73

Bridge of Arcole, 303

Brindisi, 236, 237, 239, 241

Brisighella, 263

Broletto of Bergamo, 318

Brunelleschi, Family of, 146

Brunswick, Family of, 257

Buonaparte, a notary, 117

Cadenabbia, 325

Caesena, 65

Calabria, 10, 17, 18, 19, 25, 27, 196, 214

Campagna, 19, 166, 173, 180, 181, 182, 184, 189

Campaldino, Plain of, 156

Campanello (Brigand) 141, 142

Campania, Province, 36, 67

Campanile, The, 282

Campanile of San Marco, 295

Campo Formico, 298

Campo Santo of Pisa, 127

Canalazzo at Venice, 288

Canossa, 273

Canova, 14

Capo delle Melle, 91

Capodimonte, 205

Capo di Noli, 95

Capo di Vado, 95

Capri, 2, 15, 26, 198, 202, 207, 220, 221, 222, 223

Capua, 66, 197, 198

Carbonari, The, 39

Careggi, 146, 147

Carignano, 365, 366

Carmagnola, 366

Carrara, 117, 119

Casa del Commune, 93

Casa di Palladio, 301

Casa Stradivari, 312

Casentino, 26, 65, 124, 144, 156, 157, 158, 162, 163

Caserta, 11, 198, 199

Castellamare, 212, 219, 224

Cassino, 184

Cascades of Terni, 226

Cascina, 128

Castles Castel del Carmine, 201 Castel Franco, 65, 269 Castel Gandolfo, 185, 186 Castel Malatesta, 245 Castel Paraggi, 111 Castello dell'Ovo, 201, 202 Castello Gavone, 94 Castello of Ferrara, 254 Castello of Massa, 119 Castle of Fénis, 21 Castle of Malpaga, 318 Castle of Rimini, 21 Castle of Sant Angelo, 13, 174 176, 264

Cathedral of Saint Procule, 210

Cemenelium, 66

Cernobbio, 41, 361

Certosa at Pavia, 340, 341

Cervara, 109

Cesana, 260, 261

Cesana Tarinese, 352

Cesena, 65

Chambéry, 6

Chatillon, 357

Chaucer, 5, 279

Chiavari, 112, 113

Chioggia, 237, 238, 251

Chiusi, 70, 167

Church of Sant'Antonio, 279

Cimabue, 9

Cimiez, 66

Circus Maxentius, 183

Cisalpine Gaul, 64

Cisterna di Roma, 71, 197

Civita Castellana, 225

Civita-Vecchi, 170

Claterna, 65

Clusium, Tombs of, 167

Codroipo, 297

Cogoletto, 98

Coire, 75

Col de Sestrières, 364 de Tend, 360, 365, 367, 368 du Grand St. Bernard, 73, 352, 364 du Mont Genevre, 73, 364 du Petit Saint Bernard, 73, 352, 364 Mont Cenis, 364

Colosseum (Rome), 174

Colmo dell'Orso, 75

Colonna, Family of, 5, 189, 190

Comacchio, 250, 251

Communicazione, Strada di grande, 69, 71

Como, 73, 322, 323, 326, 333, 360, 361

Conegliano, 297

Convent of the Great St. Bernard, 359

Cornudo, 295

Corte Reale, 310

Cortona, 149

Cosa, 149

Cote d'Azur, 361

Courmayer, 353, 354

Cremona, 311, 312

Crevola, 73

Cuneo, 364, 367, 368, 369

Dalmatia, 293

Dante, 7, 156, 157, 158, 164, 165, 248, 260, 270, 279, 280

Del Sarto, Andrea, 9

Desenzano, 313

Diveria, 73

Dogana (Custom House), 62

Dolce Acqua, 86

Domini, 154

Domodossola, 73, 345

Donatello, 120

Donegani, Carlo, 76

Donnas, 356

Doria, Andrea, 90, 102, 109

Duomo of Como, 322 of Fiesole, 151 of Milan, 336 of Pisa, 126

Durer, Albrecht, 6

Elba, 2

Empoli, 130, 131, 132

Este (Family of), 253, 256, 258, 264, 270, 271

Este, Village of, 256, 258

Etruria, 67

Faenza, 65

Faënza, 263, 264

Farnese, Family of, 187

Faventia, 65

Felix, 6

Feltre, 294

Fénis, 357

Ferrara, 6, 238, 251, 253-256

Fidentia, 65

Fieschi (Family of), 102, 113

Fiesole, 144, 145, 147, 148, 151-153

F. I. A. F. (Garages), 41, 105

Finale Marina, 43, 93-95

Fiorenzuola, 274

Firenzuola, 65

Fiume, 283

Florian's, 286, 287, 292

Florence, 1, 2, 6, 8, 11, 13, 18, 31, 41, 43, 69, 70, 101, 122, 128, 132, 133, 135, 138, 141, 142, 144, 145, 147, 152, 153, 158, 159, 160, 171, 226, 250, 251, 260, 268, 277, 312

Florentia, 65

Foggia, 238

Forli, 65, 262, 263

Foligno, 158, 226, 228, 230

Forlimpopoli, 65

Formia, 198

Forte Urbano, 269

Fortezza, The (Secret Society), 39

Forum Cornelii, 65, 264 Forum Gallorum, 65, 269 Forum Livii, 65 Forum Populii, 65

Fractelli, The (Secret Society), 39

Frascati, 2, 12, 179, 181, 186, 187, 188, 192

Frosinone, 71

Futa Pass, 26, 251

Gaeta, 71, 198

Galleria Victor-Emmanuel, 337

Gallinaria, Isle of, 92

Garda, 326

Garibaldi, 166, 204

Geneva, 8

Genna, 66

Genoa, 5, 34, 41, 66, 69, 74, 89, 93, 95-99, 102, 103, 105, 106, 108, 201

Gonfolina, Gorge of, 152

Grenoble, 73

Grimaldi, 62, 82, 83, 84

Grand Hotel (Nervi), 108

Grand-Hotel (Rome), 171

Grand Hotel San Marco, 275

Grand Hotel (Venice), 267

Grand Saint Bernard (See Col du Grand St. Bernard)

Gravadona, 325

Grimaldi, Family of, 102

Gropollo, Marchese, 108

Grosseto, 128, 138, 169

Grotto Nuovo di Posilipo, 206

Guardie-Finanze (Custom officer), 85

Gubbio, 232

Guiadecca, 292

Guidi, Counts of, 157

Gulf of Spezia, 66

Hotel Belle Arti, 168 Brun, 267 Croix de Malte, 114 Danielli, 267, 288 de la Minerve, 171 de la Ville (Florence), 135 de la Ville (Novana), 362 de l'Europe (Rampallo), 111 de l'Europe (Venice), 288 Diomede, 217 Europe (Milan), 339 Helvetia, 135 Massa, 119 Palace, 133 Porta Rossa, 135 Royal, 197 Royal et des Étrangers, 199 Splendide, 110 Suisse, 217

Herculaneum, 212, 218, 219

Il Deserto, 98

Il Paradisino (Mountain), 155

Il Salone, 280

Imola, 61, 65, 262, 264, 265

Intemillium, 85

Ionian Sea, 236

Ischia, 211, 212

Isernia, 238

Isola dei Bergeggi, 95

Issogne, 357

Ivrea, 354

La Brera at Milan, 336

La Favorita, 205

Lago di Como, 320, 321, 361

Lago di Garda, 313, 314, 315

Lago di Lugano, 320, 326

Lago di Maggiore, 73, 320, 326, 329, 331

Lago d'Orta, 320

Lago di Varese, 326

Lake of Averno, 211

Lake of Iseo, 317

Lake Varese, 320

"La Lanterna," 95, 103

La Magliana, 183

La Pineta, 246

Lavagua, 113

Laveno, 326

La Verna, Convent of, 162

Lecce, 237

Lecco, 320, 321

Leghorn, 4, 15, 123

Legnago, 310

Lido, The, 292

Liguria, 15, 43, 65, 66, 92, 96, 107

Lion Inn, 176

Liro, The, 76

Livorno, 68, 119, 121, 123

Livorno, Duke of, 123

Lodi, 343

Lombardy, 16, 17, 25, 73, 173, 332-335, 362, 363

Lorenzo the Magnificent, 145, 146, 152

Lotto, 36

Lucca, 11, 68, 69, 119, 121, 122, 123, 273

Lugano, 326

Luna, 66, 67

Luther, Martin, 6

Mafia, The (Secret Society), 39

Magenta, 362

Magra (the River), 116

Malatesta (Family of), 245

Manfredonia, 238, 241

Mantua, 310, 311, 312, 333

Marina-Andora, 91

Marina di Pisa, 124

Martinengo, 317

Masaniello, 203

Massa, 117, 119

Massarosa, 121

Medici (Family of), 5, 120, 123, 132, 168, 187, 348

Mediterranean Sea, 17, 184

Mennagio, 325

Menton, 10, 81, 82, 83, 84, 95

Mestre, 281, 282

Meta, 212

Milan, 1, 4, 6, 34, 41, 72, 73, 105, 276, 321, 322, 333, 335-340, 343, 344, 345, 361, 362, 363

Milan Express, 10

Minestra, 30

Modane, 73, 269, 359

Modena, 65, 269, 270

Monaco, 66

Monopoli, 237

Mont Cenis, 73, 350, 352

Mont Appio, 86

Monte Berico, 303

Monte Carlo, 3

Monte Cristo's Island, 2

Monte Falterona, 124, 156

Montelupo, 133

Montepulciana, 11, 166, 167

Monte Secchieta, 155, 162

Montevarchi, 156, 159

Mont Gauro, 211

Mont Nuovo, 211

Monza, 321, 344, 361

Mortola, 82, 84

Mugello, Valley of, 70, 151

Musset, Alfred de, 8, 280, 287, 288

Mutina, 65

Naples, 1, 8, 13, 15, 17, 18, 21, 31, 34, 41, 43, 55, 63, 71, 105, 196, 197, 198, 199, 200, 201, 205, 207, 210, 212, 213, 219, 224, 225, 312

Neapolitan Camarra, The (Secret Society), 38

Nervi, 108

Nervia, The, 86

Nesso, 321

Nicæ, 66

Nice, 65, 66, 370

Noli, 95

Nona's Tower, 176

Novara, 333, 362, 363

Oneglia, 90, 98

Orta, 309, 320, 331

Ortona, 238, 241

Otranto, 2, 237

Orvieto, 70, 138, 166, 167, 168

Osteria, 26

Ostia, 66, 181

Otricoli, 181

Ouida, Marquise de la Ramée, 120, 121

Padua, 5, 6, 7, 41, 278-281, 294

Pæstum, 224

Palace of the Caesars, 247

Palace of the Carrera, 280

Palace of Caserta, 205

Palace of the Doges, 288

Palace Farnese, 205

Palace of Theodoric, 247

Palazzaccio, 159, 160

Palazza Publico (Cesana), 261

Palazzos (See also Palaces) Agostini, 127 Bisenzi, 168 Campetto, 105 Capitano, 280 Carignano, 347 Communal, 244 Del Comune, 139, 245 Dorio, 101 Ducale, 270, 310 Gonfaloneri, 312 Gonzague, 310 Imperali, 107 Isola Bella, 327 Pretoria, 161 Publico, 139 Reale (Milan), 337 Reale (Modena), 270 Reale (Turin), 348 Rosso, 113 Valentino, 348 Vecchio, 162

Palestrina, 189, 190

Parma, 65

Parma, Duchy of, 272, 273

Passo della Somma, 71

Pater, Cosimo, 146

Paterno, 154

Pavia, 6, 333, 335, 340, 342, 343

Pegli, 99

Perugia, 21, 70, 138, 158, 162, 226, 228, 230, 231

Pesaro, 244

Pescara, 238, 241

Peschiera, 309, 310, 313

Petit Saint Bernard (See Col du Petit Saint Bernard)

Petrarch, 5, 160, 258, 279, 341

Piacenza, 64, 65, 260, 272, 274, 275, 276

Piazzas Castello, 348 Dei Signori, 301, 304 Del Mercato, 130 Del Plebiscito, 169 Di Porta Ravegnana, 269 Erbe, 304 Fontana, 169 Mercanto, 241 San Marco, 286 San Pietro, 87 Vittorio Emanuel (Florence), 136 Vittorio Emanuele (Ravenna), 248 Vittorio Emanuele (Siena), 164, 165 Vittorio Emanuele (Verona), 306

Piedmont, 15, 16, 346, 350, 353, 355, 363

Pietrasanta, 119

Pinerola, 351, 364

Pisa, 41, 66, 67, 69, 125-128

Pistoja, 131, 132

Placentia, 64, 65, 274

Pliny, 321, 322

Poggibonzi, 141

Pompeii, 216, 217, 218

Pompey, 185

Pontassieve, 153, 156

Ponte a Mensola, 153

Ponte d'Augusto, 245

Pontedera, 129

Ponte di Castel Vecchio, 304

Ponte Lungo, 93

Ponte S. Angelo, 171

Pontine Marches (See Pontine Marshes)

Pontine Marshes, 17, 72, 197

Pont Saint Louis, 81, 83

Pont Saint Martin, 355-357

Pouzzoles, 210

Poppi, 124, 156, 157, 161, 162

Poppi-Bibbiena, 156

Pordenone, 297

Porlezza, 326

Porta alla Croce, 153 Camollia, 69, 164 Capuana, 196 Cavalleggeri, 171 della Torre, 323 di Elce, 231 Romana, 69 San Lorenzo, 189 San Gallo, 145 San Sebastiano, 197 Santa Croce, 160 S. Frediano, 133

Portici, 212

Portofino, 66, 109, 110, 111

Porto Maurizio, 90

Porto Venere, 66

Portus Erici, 66

Portus Delphini, 66

Portus Herculis Monoeci, 66

Portus Veneris, 66

Posilippo, 63, 204, 206, 207, 210

Prato, 131, 132

Procida, 211, 212

Protectori Republicana (Secret Society), 39

Quaderna, 65

Quai Parthenope, 41

Rabelais, 6

Racconigi, 367

Ragusa, 11

Rapallo, 109, 111, 112

Raphael, 234

Ravenna, 2, 7, 236, 238, 245-248, 250, 251

Ravine of St. Louis, 82

Recco, 108

Reggio, 10, 11, 65, 271

Reggio, Strada de, 69

Regium Lepidi, 65

Reininghaus, The, 136

Resina, 212

Rheinwald, The, 74

Rimini, 2, 64, 65, 238, 245, 260, 261, 264

Riva, 314, 315

Riviera di Levante, 108

Rivoli, 350

Rocca di Papa, 186

Rocca of Cesana, 261

Roja, The, 85

Romagna, The, 163, 265

Roman Arena, 304, 306

Roman Forum, 179, 217

Rome, 1, 2, 4, 6, 8, 11, 13, 18, 21, 31, 34, 41, 43, 65, 66, 67, 69, 70, 71, 101, 138, 160, 166, 168, 170, 171, 172, 173, 179, 181, 182, 183, 186, 189, 192, 197, 201, 225, 238, 312

Rotonda Capra, 302

"Route Internationale," 81

Royat, 349

Rubens, 7

Sabine Hills, 189

Saint Peter's, 174

Salerno, 213, 224

Saltino, 154

Saluzza, 367

San Dalmazzo, 360, 369

Sardinia, 170

Sand, Georges, 8, 288

San Francesco, Church of, 229, 248

San Fruttoso, Monastery of, 109

San Gallo, Giuliano da (architect), 145

San Giacomo, Gorge of, 76

San Gimignano, 139, 141

San Giorgio, 291

San Marco, 13, 284, 286, 287, 291-293

San Miniato de Tedeschi, 129, 144

San Pier d'Arena, 95

San Salvatore, Church of, 113

San Remo, 62, 87

Santa Margherita, 109, 110

Santa Maria Novella, 9

Sant'Angelo, 21

Sant'Ellero, 154

Santuario of Vallombrosa, 154

Sarazza, 2

Sarzana, 117, 119

Savigliano, 367

Savignamo, 65

Savona, 66, 93, 95-98

Scaldini, 33, 34

Segni, 149

Senegallia, 244

Sermione, 313

Sestri, 66

Sestri-Levante, 113

Sicily, 25

Sidney, Sir Philip, 6

Siena, 7, 11, 43, 69, 138, 141-143, 158, 164-166, 170

Signa, 133

Simplon Pass, 10, 73, 345, 352

Soave, 303

Somma, Passo della, 71

Sorrento, 198, 212, 219-222, 224

Sospel, 370

Speranza, The, 39

Spezia, 65, 68, 108, 114-116

Spezia, Gulf of, 66, 116, 163

Spilla Nera, The (Secret Society), 39

Spinola, Family of, 102

Splugen Pass, 75

Spoleto, 71, 226

St. Francis of Assisi, 162, 279

Strada di grande Communicazione, 71, 299

Strada di Piedigrotta, 206 Forvia, 199 Militaire, 361 Piasana, 133 per Roma, 142 Regina, 325 per Siena, 142

Strozzi Palace, 135

Stresa, 327

Subiaco, 189, 190, 191, 192

Susa, Valley of, 72, 73

Taneto, 65

Taormina, 2

Taride (Maps), 77, 78

Taro River, 273, 274

Tasso, Torquato, 233, 253, 256

Taunetum, 65

Termoli, 241

Terni, 70, 138, 225

Terracina, 71, 197

Tiber, Valley of, 67

Tigullia, 66

Tivoli, 179, 181, 189, 192, 193, 194

Torre Anunziata, 212

Torre dei Guelfi, 93

Torre del Greco, 212

Torre de Marchese Malespina, 93

Torregaveta, 211

Torre, The, of Pisa, 126

Torri Asinelli, 269

Torri Gorisenda, 269

Tortona, 333

Touring Club Italiano, 78, 80

Towers of Tuscany, 138

Trattoria (Italian Wayside Inn), 43, 47, 52

Trajan, 242

Tregesco, 66

Treviso, 293, 294, 297, 299

Trieste, 283

Tunisia, 16, 17, 26

Turin, 34, 41, 72-74, 346-352, 359, 362-364

Tuscany, 16, 25, 122, 124, 334

Tusculum, 188, 189

Tyrrhenian Sea, 120, 125, 170

Ubertini, Guglielmino (Bishop of Arezzo), 157

Udine, 293, 297-299

Ulm, 6

Umbria, 162, 225, 238

Urbino, 233-235

Vada Sabbata, 66

Vado, 66

Val d'Aoste, 2, 21, 73, 314, 352-357, 364 (See also Valley of)

Val d'Elsa, 139, 141

Val d'Arno, 152

Val d'Arno di Sotto, 152

Valley of Aosta, 72

Valley of Susa, 72

Valley of the Tiber, 225

Vallombrosa, 71, 144, 147, 153-156, 162

Valmontone, 189

Var, The (River), 66

Varazze, 43, 97, 98

Varenna, 325

Varese, 326

Varium fl., 66

Vatican, The, 173, 174, 227

Veii, 186

Venetia, 16

Venice, 1, 2, 6, 7, 8, 11, 13, 19, 21, 41, 43, 53, 72, 230, 236, 251, 258, 260, 277, 281-284, 286, 288, 290, 292-298, 299, 312

Ventimiglia, 66, 82, 86, 369

Velletri, 71, 184, 189, 197

Vernazza, 114

Verona, 7, 72, 300, 303, 305-310, 312

Veronese, Paul, 7

Verrex, 356, 357

Vesuvius, 2

Via Æmilia, 7, 63-66, 163, 245, 260, 266, 273-275 Æmilia-Scauri, 66 Ameria, 66 Appia, 66, 67, 183, 196, 198, 239 Acquilla, 66 Ardentina, 66 Aurelia, 65-67 Campagna, 183 Cassia, 66, 67 Clodia, 67 del Orto, 160 Flamina, 64 (See also via Flaminia) Flaminia, 66, 160 Latina, 66 Laurentia, 66 Ostiensis, 66 Salaria, 66, 67 Tusculum, 186 Valeria, 67, 225

Viareggio, 120, 121

Vicenza, 19, 300, 301, 303

Vigna della Regina, 350

Villas Aldobrandini, 187 Ambrogiana, 132 Borghese, 176, 179 Cambria, 107 of the Cardinal, 232 Cesarini, 2 of Cicero at Baies, 210 Conti, 187 Doria, 100, 101 d'Este, 193 Falconieri, 187, 188 de Franchi, 107 Guadagui, 147 of Hadrian, 189, 193, 194 Medici, 146, 176, 178, 188 Negroni, 101 Pagana, 111 del Paradiso, 106 del Popolo, 202 Paladio, 302 Pallavicini, 99 Palmieri, 147, 148 Passarino, 298 Pagana, 111 Petraja, 146 Pliniana, 321 at Poggio Cajano, 145 Rendel, 204 Rinuccini, 147 Rosazza, 101 Ruffinella, 187 Salviate, 147 Scipione Ammirato, 151 Tusculana, 187

Villini, 31

Vintimille (See Ventimiglia), 85

Virgil, 206, 211, 239

Viterbo, 70, 138, 158, 166, 168, 169

Vogelberg, 74

Voie Æmilia, 26

Volterra, 139, 140, 141

Voltri, 99

Zocchi, the draughtsman, 148

* * * * *

Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber:

Britanny=> Brittany {pg 15}

dignataries=> dignitaries {pg 52}

Via Æmelia-Scauri=> Via Æmilia-Scauri {pg 66}

It architecture=> Its architecture {pg 176}

made way with their lovers=> made away with their lovers {pg 349}

Briancon=> Briançon {pg 352}

Chambery, 6=> Chambéry, 6 {pg index}

Castle of Fenis, 21=> Castle of Fénis, 21 {index}

Nicae=> Nicæ {index}

Paestum, 224=> Pæstum, 224 {index}