CHAPTER XIII.

_VAL DI ZOLDO._

INNS.

See 'Alpine Guide,' p. 524.

A good new Inn, Hotel Antelao, has lately been opened at San Vito, on the Ampezzo road.

APPROACHES.

Val di Zoldo is enclosed on three sides between the carriage-road of the Val d'Agordo and the Ampezzo, 'strada regia,' and on the fourth by the mule-pass from S. Vito to Caprile. It is only accessible by horse-paths, and the best starting-points are Longarone, Tai di Cadore, San Vito, Caprile, and Agordo.

PEAKS.

_Pelmo_, 10,377 ft. See p. 314 and 'Alpine Guide,' p. 525; 1st column, 13 lines from bottom, read, 'from the S. and E. sides of the mountain.' The route from Zoppé is the same as that from Borca followed by Mr. Ball. Agosto di Marco of Brusadaz is a good guide.

_Civetta_, 10,440 ft. See 'Alpine Guide,' p. 526.

_Monte Moscosin._} _Monte Vescova._ } E. of Agordo. _Monte Pelf._ }

_Sasso di Bosco Nero._ } Unascended. E. of Forno di Zoldo. _Monte Sfornioi._ }

PASSES.

_Forcella del Sasso di Bosco Nero._

Forno di Zoldo to Ospitale. Descend the valley to a point 10 min. beyond the octagon oratory of San Giovanni, pass below Fagare, and cross (40 min.) to the left bank of Val Bosco Nero; ascend valley to pass (1 hr. 50 min.); descend into Val di Campestrin and the Casera di Val Bona, and thence by a path on the left side of the torrent into the valley of the Piave (2 hrs.). M. Holzmann.

_Forcella Cibiana._

Forno di Zoldo to Venas, horse-path. 'Alpine Guide,' p. 524.

Zoppé to Vodo, horse-path. See 'Alpine Guide,' p. 523.

_Passo di Rutorto._

Zoppé or San Nicolo to San Vito, horse-path skirting the base of the Pelmo (about 5 hrs.).

_Forcella Stanlanza._

Pecol to Val Fiorentina, and by Forcella Forada to San Vito. This with the Passo di Rutorto completes the circuit of the Pelmo. It is easy to cross from the Campo di Pelmo to the Forcella Stanlanza without descending into Val di Zoldo, so that this circuit can well be made in a day by an active walker.

_Passo d'Alleghe._

Pecol to Alleghe or Caprile, mule-path. 'Alpine Guide,' p. 526.

_Passo di Duram._

Agordo to San Tiziano. 'Alpine Guide,' p. 524.

_Passo Moscosin._ Agordo to Forno di Zoldo.

This pass is the depression between Monte Piacedel and Monte Moscosin. It connects the heads of Val Crasa and Val Pramper di Zoldo. The Passo Pramper, between Monte Pramper and Monte Vescova, mentioned in the 'Alpine Guide' as leading from Forno di Zoldo to Agordo, would necessitate crossing three ridges, and passing through Val Pramper di Zoldo, Val Pramper di Grisol, Val di Rossi, Val Crasa, and the valley of the Bordina, and it would be shorter to pass from the upper part of the latter into the valley of the Misiaga. M. Holzmann.

_Passo di Lavarede._ Agordo to Longarone, by Val di Vescova.

This is a low pass S. of Monte Vescova, crossing the ridge near the châlets of Lavarede.

FOOTNOTES:

[76] The references in this Appendix from the first to the eleventh chapter are to vol. ii. of the 3-volume edition of the _Alpine Guide_, which has not been repaged for the 10-section edition.

[77] This is the spelling of Dufour's map. A second 's' was wrongly inserted in the text after it had left my hands.

_APPENDIX B._

PICTURES AND ANTIQUITIES OF THE BERGAMASQUE VALLEYS.

_Alzano Maggiore_ (5 kilomètres N. of Bergamo). In the parish church, fine picture of Lorenzo Lotto representing St. Peter Martyr (see Crowe and Cavalcaselle, 'History of Painting in North Italy,' vol. ii. p 545), and another worth notice by Appiani. The pulpit in marble, with Caryatids and bass-reliefs by Andrea Fantoni. In the sacristy, a set of most beautiful carvings and inlaid works by Fantoni and Caniana, of the seventeenth century.

_Olera_ (5 kilomètres N. of Alzano). Altarpiece with carvings and statues in wood, and paintings on panel, attributed to Cima di Conegliano (to Francesco Santa Croce, C. and C., vol. ii. p. 542), a work of great beauty.

_Albino_ (Valle Seriana). In the parish church pictures of G. B. Moroni and Talpino.

_Fiorano_ (Valle Seriana). Very beautiful altarpiece by G. B. Moroni.

_Oneta_ (in Val di Gorno). At the church of the Madonna del Frassino on the eastern slopes of Monte Alben. Fine picture in compartments of Girolamo Santa Croce.

_Parre_ (Valle Seriana). Much extolled picture of G. B. Moroni.

_Clusone_ (Valle Seriana). On the outer walls of the Chapel of the Confraternità, fresco representing the triumph of Death, recalling the celebrated Dance by Holbein; the style is Tuscan (C. and C., vol. ii. p. 535).

In the neighbouring _Rovetta_, birthplace of the carver and sculptor Fantoni, rich collection of work and models of the family Fantoni, who were for more than three centuries distinguished as wood-carvers and sculptors in marble, and whose works are found throughout the valley.

_Fino._ In a small church, fine picture of G. B. Moroni.

_Gromo_ (Val Seriana). Picture attributed to Talpino, and remarkable church furniture of the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries.

_Trescorre_ (14 kilomètres E. of Bergamo; sulphurous baths) Capella de' Suardi, entirely covered with frescoes by Lorenzo Lotto, a most important work in his best manner, damaged in parts (C. and C., vol. ii. pp. 515-517).

_Zandobbio_ (near _Trescorre_). Beautiful confessional and wood carvings by Fantoni.

_Gorlago_ (in the parish church), three pictures by Moroni, the best is 'The Adoration of the Magi;' also his last work representing 'The Last Judgment' (much damaged).

West of Bergamo, near Almenno, on the right bank of the Brembo, is a circular church of the sixth or seventh century, one of the most remarkable architectural remains of its epoch in North Italy.

_Serina_ in Val d'Ambria (side valley of Val Brembana). In the parish church several pictures (damaged) by Palma il Vecchio, who was born here. In the Chiesa dei Frati, a Crucifixion by Palma il Giovane, decaying (C. and C., vol. i. p. 281, vol. ii. pp. 467-8 and 543).

In another small church a very fine picture of the Venetian School in the manner of Titian.

_Cornello_ (Val Brembana above S. Pellegrino). Remains of the old house of the ancestors of Tasso.

_Fondra_ (Val Brembana). Paintings by Benvenuto da Garofalo.

_Averara_ (Val Brembana above Olmo). In the parish church a fine picture of Guerinoni (Bergamasque School, about A.D. 1576).

_Mezzoldo_ (Val Brembana). Valuable Ancona in the choir by Lattanzio da Rimini, A.D. 1505.

_Dossena_ (Val Brembana). Important picture by Palma il Vecchio, a good deal injured. Most beautiful Paul Veronese, another also noteworthy picture of the Venetian School, perhaps by Bonifazio Bembo.

Tschudi's 'Schweizerführer' speaks also of Tintorettos at Casnigo and Vertova in Val Seriana, and mentions several other village churches as containing pictures of the Brescian School. Tassi's 'Lives of the Bergamasque Painters,' Bergamo, 1707, may also be studied by those who wish for further information. There is a copy in the British Museum.

_APPENDIX C._

ROUTES FROM SANTA CATARINA TO VAL DI SOLE.

The following notes of two routes from Santa Catarina to Val di Sole may be useful to good walkers who wish to avoid the long circuit by the Gavia and Tonale or the dull Passo dei Tre Signori.

I. _Santa Catarina to Pejo, by the Pizzo della Mare_ (Punta di San Matteo of Payer). The ascent of this peak from the Gavia Glacier is an easy but interesting walk, and the view on a clear day unsurpassed in extent in the Alps, reaching from Monte Viso to the Ankogel above Gastein. The summit is at times a great wave of snow overhanging the Forno Glacier; care should be taken therefore in approaching the edge. From the peak a perfectly easy route, first found by Lieutenant Payer, leads down into Val della Mare by the Gh. degli Orsi. This glacier lies considerably to the E. of the peak, and on the southern side of the pass (Passo degli Orsi) at the extreme head of the Forno Glacier. Its icefall is turned by the rocky slopes on the left; below this it is best to descend at once into the valley rather than to follow a tempting path leading along the hillside to the left, which comes to a sudden end in a wood. This route occupies nine hours, or only one more than the Passo dei Tre Signori.

II. _Santa Catarina to Rabbi by Monte Cevedale and the Pizzo della Venezia._ From Santa Catarina, Monte Cevedale may be ascended through Val Cedeh, in about six hours. To reach Rabbi, the following directions must be followed: Having returned to the gap between the two summits (Mr. Tuckett's Fürkele Joch), traverse the crevassed southern face of the eastern peak to the ridge descending to the Hohenferner Joch. Follow this ridge, cross the gap, and keep along the rocky crest dividing the Val della Mare from the Martell Thal. After an easy ascent, a small glacier will be crossed, and the crest again struck to the east of the stonemen, marking the second pass mentioned by Mr. Ball ('Alpine Guide,' vol. ii. p. 438).[78] Then climb the shoulder of the Pizzo della Venezia to a point scarcely 150 feet below that rather insignificant summit. Few passes in the Alps command views equal to those of the central mass of the Orteler obtained between the Hohenferner Joch and this point, including on the one hand the bold peaks of the Königsspitze, Zebru, and Orteler itself; on the other, the vast snowy masses which surround the Forno Glacier, sending down on this side also large glaciers into Val della Mare. The Œtzthaler Ferner are well seen, and, in the opposite direction, the whole height of the Presanella, a splendid object rising behind the meadows of Val di Pejo. A descent of five minutes leads to the level snow-fields of the Vedretta della Venezia, which are crossed to a broad gap, forming the highest pass between the Val della Mare and the Rabbi valley. Its height (about 10,300 feet) is sufficient to overlook the opposite eastern ranges, and to command a wide prospect over the fertile hills of the Nonsberg and the rich Trentino, fenced in like a garden by the distant spikes of the Botzen and Primiero Dolomites.

In descending, keep at first on the left side of the small glacier; from the platform below its foot, bear to the right, to the highest pasturage, then to the left over a grass-slope, leading to a stream which must be crossed. The precipices which now stop the way have to be turned by keeping well to the left, and scrambling down a steep but easy gully which leads to a track near the foot of one of the great steps in the valley. The path follows the right bank down three steep and stony descents separated by small plains. Below the last, and near some cottages, it crosses the stream, and after a time begins to mount along the hillside towards the village of Piazzola. For the Baths it is best to follow a water course, and then run down into the level meadows which extend for a mile above the mineral source.

This route is very direct, free from difficulty, and, though long, not too laborious, involving only one re-ascent of about 1,000 ft. The latter part of it is of course equally available for mountaineers crossing from the Suldenthal to Rabbi, as Monte Cevedale can be ascended from St. Gertrud in about the same time as from Santa Catarina. Our times were: ascent of Monte Cevedale, 6 hrs.; to shoulder of Pizzo Venezia, 3 hrs.; to pass overlooking Val di Rabbi, 50 min.; descent to Baths, 3 hrs. Total, 12 hrs. 50 min., without halts.

FOOTNOTES:

[78] In the '_Karte der Centralen Ortlergruppe_,' published under the authority of the German Alpine Club and to be seen at Santa Catarina, the route can be followed with sufficient accuracy. Ball's Hohenferner Joch is there Fürkel Scharte, and his second more easterly pass, the Hohenferner Joch. The Vedretta della Venezia becomes the Vedretta Careser. The small glacier falling towards Val di Rabbi is well shown, but the ground below it is left vague. In this map the whole southwest limb of the Orteler group is most inaccurately represented, and might better have been left a blank.

_APPENDIX D._

THE CHURCHES OF VAL RENDENA.

By the kindness of Signori Marchetti and Meneguzzi, the President and Secretary of the Trentine Alpine Society, I am able to furnish the following copy of the inscription in San Stefano. They warn me that the transcription is probably not altogether accurate. Having received it only at the last moment before publication, I have been unable to consider it as carefully as I should have wished:--

'_Hæc est copia privilegi Sancti Stephani de Randena._ Carulus Magnus de Francia[79] constituit conscilium suum consulem causa veniendi in montes Blaye[80] et ducebat secum 4000 lanceas et veniebat ad civitatem Bergami de qua erat dominus unus qui nominabatur dux Lupus qui erat paganus. Et prædictus Carulus certabat secum causa convertendi ipsum.

'Qui dux cepit Sandrum et multos alios, qui fecit eos decapitare et quum decapitaverunt Sandrum VI cerei ardentes nullo eos tenente apparuerunt ey duci et gentibus circumstantibus et campane per Dey gratiam et sine aliquo auxilio mundano pulsaverat. Et hoc fuit per signum sanctitatis prædicti Sandri et viso isto miraculo prædictus dux Lupus cum tota sua gente conversus est ad

'catolicam fidem. Qui prædictus dux Lupus post modum venit cum prædicto Carulo Magno ad unum castelum quod vocatur Sanctus Johannes de Calla[81] in quo castelo morabatur unus qui nominabatur Alorus. Qui Alorus cum vidit tantam gentem circumstantem suo castelo conversus est (ad) Christi fidem. Qui prædictus Alorus misit unam sacerdotem ad unum castelum quod dicitur castelum Amoni cujus

'casteli erat dominus unus qui nominabatur Lamideus judeus. Et prædicta sacerdos tractavit prodictionem valis Oriole[82] quæ fidelis erat. Et prædictus Carulus venit in valem Oriolam et ivit ad unum castelum quod vocabatur Jesen[83] cujus casteli erat dominus unus judeus qui nominabatur Hercules quem Carulus interfecit quia noluit converti se. Et ibi fecit hedificare unam ecclesiam ad honorem sancte Trinitatis cui ecclesie VII

'episcopi concederunt XL dies indulgentiæ pro singulo singula die et dominus Pontifex concessit 1500 annos indulgentiæ. Et predictus Carulus recessit et ivit ad portam Blasie[84] et ibi erat unus castelanus qui nominabatur Judeus qui nolebat credere catolice fidey. Et Carulus certavit et destruxit eum et ibi fecit edificare unam ecclesiam ad honorem Sancti Stefani et prædicti VII episcopi concederunt XL dies

'indulgentie pro singulo singula die. Et predictus Pontifex Urbanus concedit singulo die dominico LXX dies indulgentie. Et adhuc Carulus ivit super unum monticulum et episcopus Tripinus ferebat visilum[85] (?) super illum monticulum. Et ibi Carulus fecit edificare unam ecclesiam ad honorem sancti Petri Cuchi. Et post modum venit ad unum castelum quod vocabatur Braitinus[86] in quo morabatur unus qui nominabatur

'rex Cornerus et erat judeus qui nolebat se converti ad fidem catolicam. Et Carulus certavit secum et eum destruxit. Et ibi fecit edificare unam ecclesiam ad honorem sancti Joannis. Et predicti VII episcopi concederunt XL dies indulgentie pro singulo. Et predictus Pontifex Urbanus concedit quingentos annos omni festo principali. Et post modum venit ad unum alium monticulum et ibi fecit edificare unam ecclesiam

'ad honorem sancti Clementis. Et VII episcopi concederunt XL dies indulgentie pro singulo singula die. Et predictus Pontifex Urbanus concedit 600 annos indulgentie omni die dominico. Qui prædictus Carulus ivit super unum montem et ibi cristiani cum judeis et cum paganis fecerunt magnum bellum. Et quia perierunt multi fideles et plures infideles Carulus posuit sibi unum nomen (?) quod dicitur Mortarolus.[87] Et adhuc ivit ad

'unam contratam quæ dicitur Amon.[88] Et ibi fecit edificare unam ecclesiam ad honorem sancti Bricii et prædicti VII episcopi concederunt XL dies indulgentie pro singulo singula die. Et prædictus Pontifex Urbanus concedit 900 annos indulgentie omni die veneris et omni festo sancte Marie et in festo sancti Bricii. Qui dictus Carulus ivit ad unam terram quæ vocatur Adavena.[89] Et

'ibi fecit edificare unam ecclesiam ad honorem sancti Michaellis et sancti Georgii. Et post modum fecit edificare unam ecclesiam ad honorem sancti Sandri. Et prædicti VII episcopi concederunt XL dies indulgentie pro singulo singula die. Et predictus Pontifex Urbanus concedit 400 annos indulgentie in die sancti Sandri. Et adhuc in capite illius vallis

'fecit edificare unam ecclesiam ad honorem sancte Trinitatis. Per sanctum Iohannem de Calla[90] et per castelum Amoni[91] vallis Oriola perdidit suum nomen. Et adhuc prædictus Carulus pertransivit montem Toni[92] et venit ad unam terram quæ vocatur Plezau.[93] Et ibi interfecit magnam quantitatem paganorum et judeorum. Et ibi prædictus episcopus Tripinus posuit visilum et quum episcopi venerunt

'extra ecclesiam invenerunt astam visili quæ floruerat. Et prædicti VII episcopi concederunt XL dies indulgentie pro singulo et dominus Pontifex extraxit suam cirotecam et fecit impleri arena et concedit omni die sancte Marie tot annos indulgentie quot grana arene insteterunt cirotece. Qui prædictus Carulus pertransivit quamdam vallem quæ vocatur Valiana.[94] Et venit

'ad unum montem qui vocatur Moschera[95] et venit in valem Randene[96] et misit dicere majori judeo quod aut debet in christianam fidem credere aut redere castelum. Et cum sensit novum recessit et ivit ultra mare. Et facto mane Carulus dejecit castelum. Et ivit ad unum castelum quod vocatur Pelucus.[97] Cujus casteli erat dominus unus qui nominabatur Catanius judeus qui conversus fuit ad Christi fidem. Et Carulus dejecit castelum. Et fecit edificare unam ecclesiam ad honorem sancti Zenonis. Et prædicti VII episcopi concederunt XL dies indulgentie pro singulo singula die. _Et venerunt ad ecclesiam Sancti Stefani et baptizaverunt maximum gentem. Et predicti VII episcopi concederunt XL dies indulgentie pro singulo singula die._

'Antonius de Solerio habuit gratiam de 1500 annis indulgentie pro ecclesia sancti Stefani de Randena omni die dominico primo mensis et omni festo principali quia stetit septem annis (1) secum pro suo damicello. Prædictus Carulus explevit convertire omnes paganos et judeos ad ecclesiam sancti Stefani. Et ibi dimisit unum librum in quo continebat omnia que

'fecerat per universum. Et post modum recessit cum sua gente et ivit in Blaviam.[98] _Carulus Imperator et Pontifex Urbanus et prænominati septem Episcopi concederunt suprascriptam indulgentiam prænominatis ecclesis sub annis domini nostri Jesu Christi currentibus quatuorcentesimo vigesimo nono._'

An inscription almost similar, but wanting the passages printed in italics, and with a few verbal alterations, exists also at Pelizzano.

Several difficulties in this curious inscription will at once strike the reader. For a moment he may be disposed to fancy that it records a joint expedition of Pope and Emperor, and, boldly reading Adrianus for Urbanus, to believe that the events recorded all took place during Charles' Lombard campaign, circa A.D. 780. But, so far as I know, there is no record of Adrian having ever been with Charles in North Italy; and the gift of indulgences had not become common at this period.

It is most probable that events separated by several centuries, the foundation of the churches and the privileges subsequently granted them, are here lumped together. The Urban of the inscription may very likely be Urban II., who, wanting money for the first crusade, was very ready to grant indulgences. The date of the inscription is unintelligible as it stands, but it is almost certain that the 'thousand' has dropped out, and that we should read 1429.

Mr. Ball speaks of the inscription recording a privilege granted by Charles and 'the reigning Pope Eugenius.' He does not remember whence he got the Pope's name. It may be from the fresco (see text) near the inscription. Eugenius IV. was on the Papal throne in A.D. 1431.

The picturesque force and detail with which the story of Charles' campaign is told, as well as the language, leads me to imagine that some earlier record must have been in part copied. The existence of 'pagans' in these valleys up to a late period is a well authenticated fact. I am glad to be able to quote an interesting passage bearing on this subject from an article on Bagolino, by Cave. G. Rosa, in the Bollettino of the Brescian Branch of the Italian Alpine Club.

'Questi monti sono appendici delle alpi Rezie, e furono rifugio al fiore delle colonie umbre ed etrusche in seguito alle invasioni, prima gallica indi cenomana. Nelle alpi si posero a lato le genti silvestri primitive e vi esercitarono le arti metallurgiche ed edificative. Ai romani opposero tale resistenza che 45 anni a. C., Bruto, scrivendone a Cicerone, li disse i più bellicosi degli uomini (_bellicosissimi hominum_), nondimeno furono definitivamente sottomessi 15 anni a. C. e resi tributari a Brescia. Nei trofei romani sono nominati i _Camuni_, indi i _Triumplini_, poi i _Vennoni_, fra i soggiogati, e ramo di questi Vennoni dovette essere nell' attuale valle di Sabbio ove sta Bagolino. Giacchè ivi suonano ancora i nomi di Avenù, Lavenù, Savenù. Vie traverse legavano allora assai più che adesso i popoli di queste valli confederate contro i dominatori del piano. I romani, dopo il conquisto, tennero in capo alle valli stazioni militari con torri di rifugio, come ora i russi nel Caucaso, per vegliare gli schiavi alle miniere, e sicurare le vie, ma lasciarono liberi i reggimenti comunali. Quando poi Costantino preferì l'alleanza dei cristiani e rese obbligatorio il cristianesimo, le valli più elevate resistettero a questa nuova forma di romanismo, e sino al predominio de' Franchi, in qualche luogo serbarono i riti antichi di _Saturno_, di _Tunal_, di _Tor_, di _Bergimo_, riti che l'ignoranza poscia confuse colle diavolerie stregoniche. I luoghi elevati e romiti dove rifuggirono le reliquie di que' riti vetusti, si ricordano ancora col nome di _Pagà_. Alle fonti più meridiane della Grigna trovansi l'orto dei _Pagani_ ed il dosso dei _Pagani_, dove sono ossa ed embrici romani, e tronchi fracidi di larici in un laghetto. A Bagolino è la _via pagana, rocca pagana_; a Storo rimpetto ergesi acuta la corna _pagana_.

'I gruppi federativi dei popoli alpini ebbero sempre costituzioni libere. Le loro abitazioni di legno e coperte di paglia o di _scandole_, ed i frequenti fuochi per la siderurgia vi produssero fieri incendi, i quali e le inondazioni distrussero la massima parte dei loro documenti antichi. Nondimeno rimase tanto da argomentare sicuramente della loro vita libera perpetua a forma repubblicana. Il documento di Valle Seriana che dice del palazzo fabbricato a Clusone nel 1008 pel Consiglio federale o delle Vicinie, quello del 1086 che accenna il luogo del Consiglio ed i Consoli di Lodrone, le quattro carte nell' archivio di Bovegno del 1196 che nominano Sindaci e Consoli di Vicinie, bastano ad assicurare che anche Bagolino, più grosso che quei centri, avrà avuto sino d' allora rappresentanze elettive. E la via del _palazzo_ vi accenna ad antica magione pubblica.'

In Miss Busk's 'Valleys of Tirol,' p. 365, will be found mention of executions for witchcraft, near the Tonale Pass, in the 17th and 18th centuries, in which some of the last of the pagans may be supposed to have perished. Miss Busk derived her information from another pamphlet of Cave Rosa, which I have not seen.

The same gentlemen have also sent me a description of the 'Dance of Death' of San Vigilio. Beginning on the left, the subjects arrange themselves in the following order:--

1. Three skeletons: one seated on a rude throne formed of two lofty steps and blowing the utricorn; the other two with musical instruments at their mouths. Beneath is written--

Io sont[99] la morte che porto corona Sonte signora de ognia persona Et cossì son fiera e dura Che trapasso le porte et ultra le mura Et son quela che fa tremar el mondo Revolzendo mia falze atondo atondo. Ov'io tocco col mio strale Sapienza beleza forteza niente vale. Non è signor madona nè vassallo Bisogna che lor entri in questo ballo. Mia figura o peccator contemplarai Simile a mi tu diverrai. Non offendere a Dio per tal sorte Che al transire[100] non temi la morte; Che più oltre non me impazo in be' nè in male Che l'anima lasso al giudice eternale. E come tu avrai lavorato Coesi hanc[101] sarai pagato.

2. Jesus crucified.

O peccator più non peccar non più Che 'l tempo fuge et tu non te n'avedi. De la tua morte che certeza ai tu? Tu sei forsi alo stremo et non lo credi. Deh ricorri col core al bon Jesù Et del tuo fallo perdonanza chiedi Vedi che in croce la sua testa inchina Per abrazar l'anima tua meschina. O peccatore pensa de costei La me à morto mi che son signor di ley.

3. Death and the Pope.

O sumo pontifice de la cristiana fede Christo è morto come se vede. A ben che tu abia de San Piero el manto Acceptar bisogna de la morte il guanto.

4. Death and a Cardinal.

In questo ballo ti cone[102] intrare Li antecessor seguire et li successor lassare, Poi che 'l nostro prim parente Adam è morto Si che a te cardinale no te fazo torto.

5. Death and a Bishop.

Morte così fu ordinata In ogni persona far la entrata. Sì che episcopo mio jocondo È giunto il tempo de arbandonar el mondo.

6. Death and a Priest.

O sacerdote mio riverendo Danzar teco io me intendo A ben che di Christo sei vicario Mai la morte fa disvario.

7. Death and a Monk.

Buon partito pilgiasti o patre spirituale A fuzer del mondo el pericoloso strale. Per l'anima tua può esser alla sicura Ma contra di me non avrai scriptura.

8. Death, carrying a tablet with the motto 'Pensa la fine,' seizes the Emperor.

O cesario imperator vedi che li altri jace Che a creatura umana la morte non à pace.

9. Death, with a banner 'Mors est ultima finis,' seizes a King.

Tu sei signor de gente e de paesi o corona regale Ne altro teco porti che il bene e il male.

10. Death, with a banner 'Memorare novissima tua et in æternum non peccabis,' leads off as to a dance a Queen.

In pace portarai gentil regina Che ho per comandamento di non cambiar farina.

11. Death leads off a Duke.

O duca signor gentile Gionta a te son col bref[103] sottile.

12. Death and a Doctor.

Non ti vale scientia ne dotrina Contra de la morte non val medicina.

13. Death and a Soldier.

O tu homo gagliardo e forte Niente vale l'arme tue contra la morte.

14. Death and the Miser.

O tu ricco nel numero deli avari Che in tuo cambio la morte non vuol danari.

15. Death and a young Gallant.

De le vostre zoventù fidar no te vole Però la morte chi lei vole tole.

16. Death, carrying a flag with the quotation--

_Tutti torniamo alla nostra madre antica Che appena il nostro nome si ritrova--_

slightly altered from Petrarch, leads off a Beggar.

Non dimandar misericordia o poveretto zoppo A la morte, che pietà non li da intopo.

17. Death and an Abbess.

Per fuzer li piazer mondani monica facta sei, Ma da la sicura morte scapar no poi[104] da lei.

18. Death and a Lady. Verses illegible.

19. Death, with the motto 'Omnia fert ætas, perficit omnia tempus,' drags along a struggling old woman. Verses illegible.

20. A little Death dancing with a child. In the centre a staff with two scrolls: on one, 'Dum tempus habemus, operemur bonum;' on the other, 'A far bene non dimora, Mentre hai tempo e l'hora.'

21. A winged Death, galloping on a white horse, with bow stretched in act to shoot at the groups previously described. Inscriptions illegible.

22. A square red shield with the lines--

Arcangelo Michel de l'anime difensore, Intercede pro nobis al Creatore.

The archangel St. Michael with a bloody sword, and above him an angel who holds in his hands on a cloth a beaming and beautiful soul. Beneath is written--

Morte struzer non pol chi sempre vive.

23. A winged demon; above him the inscription 'Io seguito la morte e questo mio guardeano, d'onde e scripto, li mali oprator chi meno al inferno.' He carries on his back a large open volume, in which are written the seven deadly sins. Beneath the 'Dance of Death' are allegorical representations of the seven deadly sins and the date 1539.

FOOTNOTES:

[79] This word would, perhaps, point to a late date for the inscription, but an error of one letter would make it read 'de Francis.'

[80] and [84] Brixiæ (?), if so Brescia.

[81] Calepio (?).

[82] This name of the valley survives in the Oglio (Ollius) its river. The modern name Val Camonica is generally derived from the Camuni, the tribe who formerly inhabited it.

[83] Esine.

[85] visulus = a vine.

[86] Braone.

[87] The name is preserved in the Val Mortirolo above Edolo. Close by is the Motto Pagano.

[88] Monno.

[89] Davena.

[90] See _ante_.

[91] See last page.

[92] The Tonale.

[93] Pelizzano.

[94] Val di Sole.

[95] Moschera is said to be the name given in some old chronicles to Campiglio, which gained its present name from Charles' encampment on the broad meadows of the Ginevrie Alp. The 'Trento' of Mariani is quoted as an authority for these statements. It is worth noting that we find elsewhere the names 'Campo' and 'Spinale' in close conjunction in Charles' history. _Einhardi Annales edidit Pertz_, p. 52: 'in Vosego silvâ ad patrem venit in loco qui dicitur Camp.' To which the editor adds, 'Champ in Lotharingiâ villa parva prope Bruyere ad rivum Velogne a septentrione Romarici montis et ab oriente _Spinalii_ (Epinal).'

[96] Val Rendena.

[97] Pelugo.

[98] Brixiam (?).

[99] Sono.

[100] Morire.

[101] Anche.

[102] Bisogna.

[103] Lettera.

[104] Non puoi.

_APPENDIX E._

THE NOMENCLATURE OF THE BRENTA GROUP.

There has been much confusion of late years as to the names to be given to the two highest summits of this range, which stand respectively N. and S.W. of the Bocca di Brenta.

The old and very incorrect Government Map of Tyrol gives the name of Cima Tosa to the N. peak, and none to the S. and highest. Mr. Ball, the first mountaineer who explored this country, adhered, on his first visit, to the name given by the Survey to the N. peak, and to the S. gave the name of Cima di Brenta or Brenta Alta. Lieutenant Payer followed Mr. Ball's example in his article on the Bocca di Brenta in the fifth volume of the Austrian Alpine Club's Publication.

When, however, in 1865, Mr. Ball made from Molveno the first ascent of the S. peak, he found that his guide, a native of that village, knew it as 'La Tosa.' Mr. Ball therefore seemed in his last edition disposed to give the collective name of Brenta to the chain, and to call the S. peak the Cima Tosa; but he ignored the difficulty that the almost equally important N. summit, hitherto known to chartographers and English climbers as the Cima Tosa, was left nameless.

In this state of things the attention of the newly formed Trentine Alpine Society was called to the subject, and they promptly appointed a committee to inquire into and consider the local usage. The results of this inquiry are now shortly stated.

The Val di Brenta gives its name to the group. The point S. of the Bocca di Brenta is known as La Tosa throughout the country. The peak N. of the Bocca (the Cima Tosa of the map) is called in Val Brenta the Cima di Brenta. The following names are wrongly given in the Austrian map:--Val Asinella for Vallesinella, Val Agnola for Val Agola, Val Dalcon for Val d'Algone. The names Bocca di Vallazza, Bocca della Vallesinella, Bocca dei Camozzi, and Passo d'Ambies, suggested for the passes discovered of late years by English climbers, are, as I understand, accepted. The Bocca della Vallesinella is the pass first called Bocca di Tosa by Mr. Tuckett.

Some curious etymological details are added to the report. Tosa, supposed by Mr. Ball to be equivalent to 'virgin,' is stated to be a contraction of tosata = shaven, a title derived from the bald, rounded aspect of the peak when seen from the east. 'Brenta' is a local word in the Sarca valley for a shallow vessel used for soup in cottages: thence it is applied to the stagnant pools or tarns common in the dolomite glens. In this way the word gets attached to the glen itself, and finally to the peak above it. Cima di Brenta is, it would seem, therefore, the Italian equivalent for Kesselkogel.

There was one other quarter to which it was natural to look for information--the officers at the head of the Viennese Ordnance Survey Department, who have recently re-surveyed the Trentino. But every application for information--although made to the Head of the Department through influential Austrian friends, and in the name of the English Alpine Club--was met by a refusal, or a promise broken as soon as made. I finally sent an extract from the old Government Map, with a request that the names adopted in the new survey for the two chief peaks of the Brenta group might be written across it. Even this the office declined to do. Such a refusal was the more unexpected as the French and Swiss Engineers have always been ready to give every information, even where there was real prospect of rivalry between the private work in hand and the Government survey.

From photographs I have seen of some portions of the new map, I feel sure that although much too large for general use it will be valuable to explorers, and I recommend every mountaineer intending to visit the Trentino or the Italian Tyrol to inquire through Messrs. Stanford if it is yet out, and if possible to purchase the sheets he will require.

Time has not verified the official statement made in March last that the sheets containing the Brenta group 'would be published in a few days,' but they may probably be looked for within the next year or two. If, when they appear, the nomenclature adopted proves different in any way from that here given, General Dobner, the head of the Department, will be alone to blame for any confusion to which the discrepancy may give rise. I should have been glad to follow the authority of his map; but the nomenclature I have used, coming as it does from the very best local authorities, can scarcely, if the engineers have gone for information to the same source, differ widely from theirs.

I have taken the heights in my map from the reductions from the Kataster of Mr. Ball and from a table contained in the 'Annuario' for 1874 of the Trentine Alpine Society. The peaks are mostly derived from the latter, the villages from the former authority.

I may mention here that I have been unable to adopt the heights given for the Primiero peaks in the same 'Annuario.' The Cimon della Pala is there set down as 3,550 metres = 11,647 feet, and the Palle di San Martino as 2,953 metres = 9,688 feet. The first of these figures is as much over as the other is under the mark. In the same list the height of the Sass Maor is probably pretty correctly given as 10,656 feet, and that of the C. della Rosetta as 10,266 feet.

_APPENDIX F._

TYROL v. TIROL.

I ought perhaps briefly to notice this lately raised question of orthography, and to explain the grounds on which I decline to follow the example set by two authoresses, who seem anxious to introduce into our literature the confusion which already prevails in Germany as to the correct spelling of the name of this province. If it could be proved that 'Tirol' was the invariable local and German spelling, as Miss Busk seems to fancy it is, there would at least be a good argument for changing our present practice. But I am informed by a gentleman living near Innsbruck that in the old histories he has consulted the form used is 'Tyrol.' I have myself noted, during the last few weeks, the spelling adopted in the German books I have had occasion to refer to; and, so far from 'Tirol' being universal or 'Tyrol' obsolete, I find the latter form preferred by Herr von Sonklar, Herr Liebeskind, Herr Studer, Herr Siber Gysi, the late Professor Theobald, and the 'Alpenpost;' in a set of views published at Leipzig is one of 'Schloss Tyrol,' and in another set published at Partenkirchen (Bavaria) the 'y' is also throughout adopted. In maps the balance of authority is for 'Tyrol.' I may cite Anich and Huber's, 1774; Pfaundlers, 1783; Schwatz's, 1795; Unterberger's Innsbruck, 1826; Artaria's, 1839; and the 24-sheet Government map of the whole country. They can all be found in one box (No. 21) in the Geographical Society's Map-room.

I do not of course question the fact that the spelling 'Tirol' is now very frequently preferred abroad both in maps and books; but the assertion that it is the more ancient form, and the one exclusively sanctioned by local use, seems to be wholly unsupported by evidence.

INDEX.

(Appendix A is not indexed here.)

Adamello, 189, 212-218

Adamello Pass, 218

Adige, 173

Agordo, 288

Alle Sarche, 180

Albigna Glacier, 47

Albino, 367

Alpe di Caf, 166

---- di Ferro, 55

Alpine beauty, variety of, 339

---- Club, Italian, 144

---- geography, 136-137

---- views, 214-217

Alps, in poetry, 332

Alps, the, 91-93

Alzano Maggiore, 367

Aprica Pass, 156

Arco, 173

Art and the Alps, 336-338

Art, modern, 334-335

Averara, 368

Avers Thal, the, 44

Bad weather on the mountains, 21

Bagni del Masino, 57-60

Bagolino, 374

Baldino, 254

Barbellino Alp, 149

Basodine, the, 15-17

Bears, 113, 197

Bedole Alp, 210

Belvedere, the, 156

Bergamasque ranges, 130

Bergamasque valleys, pictures in, 141, 367

Bignasco, 6-10, 26; Inn at, 10

Boazze, 168

Bocca dei Camozzi, 252

---- di Brenta, 274

Bocca di Vallazza, 274

Bocchetta di Val Maggia, 18

Bondasca Glacier, 52, 76

Bondione, 148

Borzago Glacier, 224

Brenta Group, 236-239, 248; nomenclature of, 378

Brianza, 126

Brione, 31

Broglio, 12

Brusadaz, 314

Busk, Miss's, Valleys of Tirol, 375, 380

Cainallo Pass, 124

Campiglio, 239-247

Canobbio, 37

Carè Alto, 166, 174, 224-226, 264

Caresolo, 176

Casana, 109

Caspoggio, 11

Cassiglio, 131

Cavergno, 20

---- Glacier, the, 16

Cedegolo, 159-161

Cencenighe, 297

Cenedago, 272

Cevio, 4-5

Chamois, 112, 227, 251

Charlemagne, 232, 371

Chiareggio, 68

Chiese, 168

Cima del Largo, 77-79

---- della Rosetta, 295

---- di Brenta, 267-269

---- di Pape, 296

---- di Piazza, 108, 117

---- di Rosso, 67

---- di Tschingel, 81

Cima di Vezzana, 304

---- Pra dei Camozzi, 251

---- Tosa, 250, 275

Cimon della Pala, 304

Civetta, 310

Clusone, 367

Coi, 324

Comano, Baths of, 255

Cornelle Pass, 306

Cornello, 368

Corni del Confine, 227

Corno Alto, 234

---- dei Tre Confini, 150

---- di Lago Spalmo, 119

Coryat's Crudities, 133-140

Costonzella Pass, 284

Crozlina Alp, 21

Dalpe, 20

Dimaro, 261

Disgrazia, 43, 69

Dobner, General, 379

Dolomites, Swiss, 237

Dosdè Alp, 118

Dos di Sabione, 231

Dossena, 368

Eastern Alps, Hospices in, 240

Edolo, 157-158

Esino, 124

Faido, 20

Finero, 39

Fino, 368

Fiorano, 367

Flavona Alp, 269

Fluri, 78, 104

Fondra, 368

Forcella di Cedrino, 130

Forcella Gesurette, 289

Forest Laws, want of, 231, 282

Forno dei Canali, 297

Forno Glacier, 66

Fosine, 260

Fresine, 161

Fulmini di Brenta, 250

Fusio, 14

Gares, 296

Gavia Pass, the, 189-190

German smokers, 244

Ginevrie Pass, 263

Giudicaria, 169-170

Giustino, 177

Gorlago, 368

Grigna Panorama, 125-127

Grigna, the, 125, 128

Gromo, 147, 368

Grossotto, 120

Gutmann, 208-210

Il Piz, 287

Introbbio, 128-130

Isola, 161

Jenni, 113

Kastelhorn, 16

Kingsley's Prose Idylls, 329

Klosters, 95

Krimml, Falls of, 15

Kung, J., 113

Laghi di Colbricon, 284

Lago d'Arno, 163-164

---- d'Avio, 228

---- di Caf, 166

---- di Ledro, 171

---- di Tovello, 270

---- Maggiore, 35

---- Toblino, 180

La Lobbia, 212

Landquart, 94

La Rasica, 62, 72

Lavertezzo, 33

Lavin, 100

Lavinuoz, 100

Livigno District, the, 108

Lobbia Glacier, 226

Locarno, 36

Lombard Alps, 186-187

Lombardy, Plain of, 125

Loppé, M., 342-345

Madriser Pass, the, 45

---- Thal, 44

Maggia, the, 3

Malero, 89

Maloya Inn, 66

Mandron Glacier, 212, 227

Map, the Swiss, 24. Ziegler's, 119. Of Orteler, 369. Of Tyrol, 379-380

Menaggio, 121

Mezzoldo, 368

Missionary Societies, 245

Molveno, Inn at, 273

Montagne Aiguebelette, 135

Monte Agnaro, 288

---- Aralalta, 131

---- Aviolo, 157

---- Castellazzo, 283

---- Castello, 166

---- Cevedale, 369

---- della Disgrazia, 84-88

---- Folletto, 226

---- Frerone, 166

---- Gleno, 150-152

---- Redorta, 147

---- Rosa, view from, 186

---- Spinale, 264

---- Sissone, 64-65

---- Zembrasca, 117

Moroni, Pictures of, 367

Morstadt, Dr. Julius, 173

Mortaso, 176

Mountain beauty, 327-345

Mountaineering without guides, 300

Mountaineers, English and German, 183

Mountain haters, 329

Muretto Pass, 67

Nardis Glacier, 202

Nomenclature, Alpine, 188

Olera, 367

Olmo, 140

Oneta, 367

Orasso, 38

Packe, Mr., 322

Padernione, 180

Palle di San Lucano, 288

Paneveggio, Forest, 282. Hospice of, 283

Parre, 367

Passo d'Alleghe, 312

---- d'Ambies, 258

---- degli Orsi, 369

---- del Diavel, 113

---- della Preda Rossa, 88

---- delle Cornelle, 294

---- delle Malghette, 269

---- del Mandron, 227

---- di Bondo, 54, 73-75

---- di Cavento, 226

---- di Cercen, 203

---- di Dosdè, 119

---- di Ferro, 49-55

---- di Foscagno, 109

---- di Gornigo, 145-146

---- di Grostè, 269

---- di Mello, 68-72

---- di Monte Campo, 165

---- di Monte Sissone, 63-67

---- di Redorta, 29-30

---- di San Marco, 138

---- di Travignolo, 297-305

---- di Verva, 117

Pasturo, 128

Patocchi, Signor, 10

Payer, Lieutenant, 183, 203

Peccia, 13

Pejo, 260

Pelmo, 311. Ascent of, 314-321. A lady's ascent of, 322-324

Photographs, Mountain, 335

Piancaning, 67

Piazza, 140

Pico della Speranza, 64, 84

Pictures in Bergamasque Valleys, 367

Pieve di Buono, 169

---- di Ledro, 171

Pinzolo, 177, 229-235. Inn at, 234

Pisgana Pass, 190

Piz Cacciabella, 50

---- Campo Tencca, 21-27

---- Linard, 100

---- Lischanna, 103

---- Pisoc, 103

---- Quatervals, 112

Pizzano, 193

Pizzo della Mare, 214, 258, 369

---- della Venezia, 369

---- di Cocca, 150

---- Porcellizzo, 81

Plecken, Auf der, Hospice at, 246

Pontagna, 228

Ponte di Legno, 190

Pontresina guides, 86

Porcellizza Alp, 73

Pra Fiori, 178

Prätigau, the, 95-97

Presanella, 178, 189, 200-203

Presolana, 151

Primiero, 293

---- District, 280

---- Group, 290

---- Peaks, heights of, 379

Primiero, Roads to, 286

Promontogno, 48

Punta Trubinesca, 42, 50, 81-83. View from, 82

Rabbi, 260

Riva, 172

Roche Melon, 136

Rovetta, 368

San Carlo, 18, 26

---- Giuliano, 234

---- Lorenzo, 255

---- Martino, 56

---- Martino di Castrozza, 282, 285

---- Michele, 271

---- Nicolò, 312

---- Omobuono, 142

---- Pellegrino, 142

---- Stefano, 232, 370

---- Vigilio, 232, 375

Sarca, 172-173. Gorges of the, 174

Sardasca Alp, 96

Sass Maor, 286

Sasso Bisolo Glacier, 87

---- di Bosco Nero, 325

---- di Campo, 289

---- di Remeno, 80

---- Rosso, 262

Scarl Thal, 106

Schuls, 102

Schweizerführer, Herr Tschudi's, 104, 141

Serina in Val d'Ambria, 368

Serio, Falls of the, 148

Serneus, 96

Sils Maria, 67

Silvaplana, 79

Silvretta Ferner, 96

---- Pass, 98

Snow region, the, 23, 34

Societa Alpina of Trent, 186

Soglio, 45

Sondrio, 90

Sonogno, 31

Spaniards on Lago di Como, 137

Spor, 272

Stenico, 174, 180

Taleggio, 132

Taine, M., on the Pyrenees, 330

Tarasp, 100-102. Castle of, 102

Tavodo, 255

Theobald, Herr, 45

Tione, 175

Titian, 3

Tonale Hospice, 192

Tonale Pass, the, 191-193

Torre, 88

Tosa Falls, 15

Trabuchetto, 143

Trent, 181

Trentino, 305

Trescorre, 368

Tuckett, Mr., 62-63

Tyrol v. Tirol, 380

Val Ampola, 171

---- Bavona, 19-20

---- Belviso, 152

---- Bondasca, 49

---- Bregaglia, 46

---- Brembana, 141-143

---- Camonica, 156, 159

---- Canobbina, 38-39

---- Centovalli, 37

---- Cluoza, 109

---- Corteno, 157

---- d'Adame, 161

---- d'Agola, 253

---- d'Algone, 179

---- d'Ambies, 256-257

---- d'Angoraz, 289

---- Daone, 168

---- d'Avio, 228

---- dei Bagni, 56

---- del Diavel, 112

---- del Lago, 173

---- del Leno, 166

---- delle Seghe, 274

---- del Sasso, 112

---- d'Esino, 123-124

Val di Borzago, 176, 222

---- di Brenta, 236, 249-250

---- di Canale, 292

---- di Fum, 167-168, 226

---- di Genova, 204-207

---- di Malga, 159, 220

---- di Mello, 72, 84

---- di Non, 259

---- di Prato, 25-26

---- di Salarno, 161

---- di San Valentino, 176

---- di Scalve. 148, 151

---- di Sole, 259

---- di Spor, 272

---- di Zoldo, 300; people of, 325

---- d'Osola, 32

---- Grosina, 120

---- Imagna, 142

---- Lavizzara, 12-14

Valle di San Lucano, 288

Vallesinella, 236, 265

Valles Pass, 297

Val Livigno, 115-116

---- Maggia, 1-27; mountains of, 30

---- Maggians, 17

---- Malenco, 68, 88-89

---- Masino, 80; boulder in, 52; mountains of, 40-43

---- Miller, 219

---- Nambino, 236, 264

---- Nambrone, 236

---- Onsernone, 37

---- Paisco, 159

---- Presanella, 196-198

---- Presena, 193

---- Rendena, 175-177; churches of, 370-377

Val Saviore, 161-162

---- Selva, 262

---- Seriana, 147-148; glacier of, 150

---- Tellina, 89

---- Teresenga, 270

---- Torreggio, 88

---- Torta, 131-132

Val Torta, 131

Val Trupchum, 112

---- Livigno, 107

---- Vermolera, 120

---- Verzasca, 28-35; road in, 31

---- Viera, 114

---- Vigezzo, 40

---- Viola Poschiavina, 117

---- Zuort, 105

Varenna, 123

Venetian Tyrol, 308

Vereina Thal, 96

Vermiglio, 193

Verstankla Glacier, 98

Vezzano, 180

Vogorno, 34

Von Ruthner, Dr., 195

Vulpera, 102

Weilenmann, Herr, 99

Zandobbio, 368

Zernetz, 106

Zocca Pass, the, 47

Zogno, 142

Zuort Glacier, 105

Zutz, 79

LONDON: PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE AND PARLIAMENT STREET

_By the same Author (1869)._

Uniform with 'Italian Alps,' with Three Maps, Two Panoramas of Summits, Four full-page Engravings on Wood, and Sixteen Woodcuts in the Text, in One Volume, price 18_s._

TRAVELS in CENTRAL CAUCASUS and BASHAN: including Visits to Ararat and Tabreez, and Ascents of Kazbek and Elbruz.

Although the ethnology and history of the Caucasus have been treated of by various authors, information concerning its natural features had been up to the appearance of this volume scanty and difficult of access; and until the Summer of 1868 no Englishman had visited the most interesting of the chain, and its two most famous summits, Kazbek and Elbruz, were still unascended. The chief aim of the journey described in the present volume was to explore the interior of the chain and to effect the ascents of Kazbek and Elbruz. The Writer and his friends hoped by penetrating on foot the recesses of the mountains to learn the form of the peaks, the extent of the snow-fields and glaciers, and the character of the forest and flora, so as to be able to draw a general comparison between the Caucasus and the Alps.

Before, however, carrying out this part of their design the travellers made a rapid journey through Syria, in the course of which they visited the Hauran and Lejah districts, recently brought into notice by the supposed identification of the ruined towns still existing in them with the cities of the gigantic Rephaim laid waste by the Israelites. The Author records his conviction that this theory is unfounded, and that the ruins of the so-called 'Giant Cities' are in fact composed of Roman edifices mixed with many buildings of more recent date.

On landing in the Caucasus (which they reached by Russian steamer from Constantinople) the travellers proceeded to Tiflis, whence they made an expedition along the Persian high-road to Tabreez. On their return they partially ascended Ararat, paid a visit to the Armenian Patriarch at Etchmiadzin, and traversed a little-known portion of the Georgian and Arminian highlands.

Starting from Tiflis at the end of June, the travellers spent the next two months in mountain exploration. During this time they made the first successful ascents of Kazbek and Elbruz, traversed eleven passes, varying from 8,000 to 12,000 feet in height, and examined the sources of eight rivers and both flanks of the main chain for a distance of 120 miles. The greater portion of the volume is occupied by the narrative of their adventures in the mountains, and the difficulties arising both from the roughness of the country and of its inhabitants. The Author describes the Ossetes, a tribe known as 'the gentlemen of the Caucasus,' and contrasts the slothful and churlish Mingrelian races on the south side of the chain with the industrious and hospitable Tartars on the north.

Having crossed the main range by the Mamison Pass to the Rion sources, the party made an expedition to the Uruch Valley and back across the previously untrodden snow-fields of the central chain. The travellers' route then led them through the pathless swamps and forests of the Zenes-Squali into Suanetia, a mountain basin renowned for the barbarism of its inhabitants, the extraordinary richness of its vegetation, and the startling grandeur of the great peaks that overlook it. After more than one narrow escape from robbery, if not from actual violence, the Author and his companions passed along the valley to Pari, a Russian post; whence they again crossed the chain to the foot of Elbruz. Having ascended this mountain (18,520 feet), they proceeded to Pätigorsk, the centre of the Russian watering-places in Ciscaucasia and remarkable for the volume and variety of its mineral springs.

Before returning to Tiflis by Vladikafkaz and the Dariel Pass, the party explored the upper valleys of the Tcherek and Uruch, the entrances of which are guarded by stupendous defiles far exceeding in grandeur any Alpine gorges. The Tcherek has its source in the vast glaciers flowing from the flanks of Koschtantau and Dychtau, two of the most magnificent mountains of the range, which have hitherto remained in undeserved obscurity.

The concluding pages are devoted to a comparison between the Alps and the Caucasus, to a short account of a visit to the Crimea, and the Author's homeward journey across Russia. It is hoped that this record of travel and adventure amongst the mountain fastnesses of the Caucasus may prove of sufficient interest to draw the attention of Englishmen to a range surpassing the Alps by two thousand feet in the average height of its peaks, abounding in noble scenery and picturesque inhabitants, and even now within the reach of many 'long-vacation tourists.'

The MAPS comprise a Route Map of the Hauran, the Caucasian Provinces, and the Central Caucasus. The Map of the Central Caucasus is reduced from the Five-Verst Map, executed by the Russian Topographical Department at Tiflis, with many corrections suggested by the experience of the writer and his fellow-travellers.

The full-page ILLUSTRATIONS are four views of Elbruz from the North, Ararat, and Kazbek from the South, and as seen from the Post Station.

The PANORAMAS show the Caucasus from Pätigorsk, and the Koschtantau Group.

_List of the Woodcuts in the Text_:--

A Georgian Church The Georgian Castle, Tiflis Mountaineers in Armour An Ossete Village An Ossete Peaks of Adai Khokh Source of the Eastern Zenes-Squali Our Camp-fire in the Forest A Native of Jibiani Tau Tötönal from above Latal Uschba Woman of Uruspieh Peak in the Tcherek Valley The Fortress of Dariel The Grand Ducal Villa, Borjom A Mingrelian Winejar

'We are delighted with Mr. FRESHFIELD'S book. The lovers of mountain scenery will read his descriptions of peaks and passes with unflagging interest, and their hearts will beat quickly as they read of the adventures conducted with so much energy, perseverance, and intelligence.'

LAND AND WATER.

'The book is written in a simple and manly style, and gives an agreeable impression of the spirit in which the travellers carried out their design.... We may congratulate Mr. Freshfield on having achieved a much rarer feat than the ascent of mountains, that of recording his performances in a thoroughly satisfactory manner.'

PALL MALL GAZETTE.

London, LONGMANS & CO.

* * * * * *

Transcriber's note:

Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation in the original document have been preserved.