Part 2

Since cutting material, especially heavy material like felt or nonwoven interfacing, is different than cutting paper, practice on some scraps of material before you cut the fabric for the case. You will have the best cut edge if you open the shears wide and take long even strokes in cutting. Do not close the points of the shears until you reach the end of the pattern or the material. Cut the piece of fabric along the marked lines.

Mark the hem on section A

A hem (material folded back on itself) is needed on the top edge of Section A to make the top strong enough so it will not tear when the shears are slipped into the pocket.

Measure ½ inch from the top edge of section A. Mark with pins. Then fold the edge down so the pins lie on the outside of the fold. Press a fold along the pins. Ask your leader to show you how to press with a steam iron or a pressing cloth.

You have learned to stitch straight by following a line. When you stitch this hem your presser foot _not the needle_ will follow a line. Place your material under the presser foot with the cut edge touching the inside edge of the toe of the presser foot. Your leader will show you how this is done.

Fold Use 8 Stitches per inch _Outside_ edge of toe runs along cut edge

You may want to practice before stitching the hem into this part of your shears case. Look back to page 10 if you have forgotten how to start and end a line of stitching.

Shape the flap of section B

In order to neatly fold the top of section B over the shears, and also to make the shears case more interesting, cut the flap as shown above.

Measure ½ inch from the sides of fabric piece B—points a and b. Then measure 2 inches from the top of section B—points c and d.

Using a ruler, draw a straight line between points a and c and points b and d. Cut along a-c and b-d with long, even strokes.

Mark the pocket on section A

Fold section A in half. Carefully put pins into the fold to mark the center. Fold the pocket pattern, which you cut earlier, in half. Place the center crease of the pocket pattern on the pins marking the center of section A.

The top edge of the pattern should be even with hemline (folded edge) of section A.

Open the pocket pattern and pin it in place. Measure the distance between the paper pattern and the outer edge of section A at the top and bottom of the pattern.

Trace around the pattern with tailor’s chalk or your tailor’s pencil. Keep the chalk line very sharp, because you will be using it as a guide for stitching the pocket.

Get the pocket ready to stitch

To make the pocket, you will be stitching section A and section B together. Since two thicknesses of fabric are more bulky than a single thickness, it will be necessary to learn how to pin them together so they will not slip when you are stitching them.

Place section A over section B with cut edges of lower corners and side edges matching. The hem should be folded to the inside and chalk markings to the outside.

Pin the two pieces together with the points of the pins directed to the side edges of the case.

Machine stitch the pocket

Adjust the stitch regulator to 8 stitches per inch. Lower the needle on the stitched hemline of section A. Lower the presser foot after the threads have been drawn between the toes to the back of the machine.

Backstitch until the needle pierces folded edge, or knot the thread according to directions on page 21. Then adjust the stitch regulator to forward motion.

Stitch following the line you have marked, stitching on it as much as possible. Apply little pressure onto the knee lever or foot pedal so the machine will not move too fast.

When you reach the point of the pocket, lower the needle into the point of material, raise the presser foot, turn the material around, lower the presser foot again, and stitch to the next point. The presser foot needs to be raised and lowered in this manner each time you want to turn a corner.

Stitch to the fold of the hem. When you reach the fold, backstitch to the stitching line of the hem.

With your small scissors clip the threads close to the stitching line.

Sew sections A and B together

The side seams of the case must still be stitched together. This is done on the outside of the case.

Place your shears case under the presser foot so that the cut edges are even with the outside of the narrow toe. Start stitching in the hem of section A.

When you reach each corner remember to turn your wheel by _hand_ so the needle goes into the material at the exact turning point. Turn corner as you learned on page 16. Do not try to use the electricity when reaching or turning corners until you know how to use the machine as easily and as accurately as your mother or leader.

After you have stitched around the entire case, sew over the first stitches you made in the hem.

Clip the threads short. (Are you remembering to put the clipped threads into the paper bag fastened to your machine?)

Change the top of section B into a flap

In order to keep the upper part of section B in a folded position so it will keep the shears in the pocket, you need to add one more row of stitching.

Slip the shears into the pocket of the case. Then turn section B down over the shears to find the best place to fold the flap. Mark the fold with a pin.

Remove the shears and fold the flap on the empty case. Measure the distance from the fold to the cut edge in several places, to be sure it is folded evenly. Then press the fold lightly and pin into position.

Machine stitch ⅛ inch from the fold of the flap, backstitching up to the stitching line, and then moving forward.

Clip your threads closely, remove pins, and you have completed your first project!

How to make your case colorful

Now that you have learned to measure and to use your sewing machine accurately, you will find a great deal of enjoyment in combining thread of a color contrasting with your material. Stitching then becomes a decoration. If you are really able to stitch straight, stitch each pocket twice—each row ⅛ inch apart, or the width of the presser foot toe.

You have a pattern and have learned how simple it is to make this handy case. Why not make a few more for gifts?

You could please your mother, or some of your friends, if you made a case for their shears, too.

Barbecue placemats or traveling kit This project will give you more practice in using the parts of the sewing machine you have learned to use in making your shears case. You may choose to make either placemats or a traveling kit or both. The materials and supplies used for each are the same, and most of the stitching is the same. But the number and size of pockets, as well as the use of the article are different. Your bulletin shows you how to make the pockets for each article.

Barbecue placemats

When rolled and tied barbecue placemats are easy carryalls for napkins and silverware for a barbecue meal. When open, they are placemats.

Traveling kit

A traveling kit will hold some of the articles you need in order to be well groomed when you visit your friends—your toothbrush, toothpaste, comb, hairbrush, hand lotion, kleenex, etc. Or it can be used to hold some of the supplies you need to keep your clothes well groomed when you are traveling, such as a clothes brush, shoe polish, and shoe brush.

What you will learn

• To choose and match pretty colors. • To do some hand basting. • To stitch a seam. • To top-stitch (stitching one piece of material on top of another). • To stitch straight by following a line in the design of the material.

What you will do first

You will need to go shopping with your mother to buy the towels, washcloths, shoestrings, and thread.

Two plain-colored, terry cloth finger towels.

One striped or checked washcloth (the design will be your guide in stitching).

One pair of plain colored shoestrings—27 inches long.

Two spools of thread; 1 to match stripes and shoestrings and 1 to match the towels.

You will also need these tools from your sewing box:

Large shears Pins and pincushion Thimble Paper bag 21-inch ruler Needle Scissors

Take another good peek at what your placemat will look like when you are finished (page 18). In order to clearly show how you will stitch the washcloth to the towel, a plain washcloth is used in the illustrations instead of a checked or striped one like you will be using in your project.

Start with the washcloth

_Fold_ the washcloth _in half_ with the stripes running up and down. Then _pin the open edges together_ with 3 or 4 pins.

Use shears to cut through the fold of the washcloth to cut it in half. (Your leader will show you how to handle the shears so that you can take long, even cutting strokes.)

Fold each half washcloth again to find the center. Mark the center with a pin at the cut edge and on the hem edge.

Get the towels ready

Find the center of the towels by folding each in half—crosswise and right side out. (If you do not recognize the right side of the towel, ask your leader to help you.)

Mark the center of each towel with pins, as you did the washcloth. But since the towel is bigger than the washcloth, you will need at least three pins on the fold to mark the center line. Also insert a row of pins on the right side of the towel, ½ inch from the lower hem of the towel.

Sew the washcloth and towel together

Find the place for the washcloth on the towel by matching the center of the washcloth with the center of the towel. Then bring the cut edge of the washcloth up to the row of pins.

Pin the washcloth in place as shown in the illustration. Sew a hand-basting stitch along the hem of the towel to hold the washcloth in place when stitching it with the sewing machine. Since many of you have never sewn by hand, your leader will give you a special demonstration on how to thread the needle and baste. Try to keep the stitches about ¼ inch in length.

Stitch the washcloth to the towel from the wrong side of the towel. You will be making a ¼ inch seam, or you might stitch just to the inside of the hem. Your leader will show you where your stitching line looks best.

Adjust the stitch regulator to sew backward. If your sewing machine cannot be adjusted to go in reverse, raise your presser foot slightly above the fabric at the edge of the washcloth and take 4 or 5 stitches. The fabric will not move but the thread will become knotted and fastened.

Lower the needle into the towel at a point ¼ inch from the side hem of the washcloth. Keep both threads to the back of the presser foot. Then lower the presser foot.

Start to use the machine by turning the fly wheel by hand until the needle reaches the edge of the washcloth. Adjust the stitch regulator so the machine will sew forward again—12 stitches per inch. Stitch (using electricity) until you reach the other side of the washcloth.

Readjust the regulator for backstitching, and hand turn the flywheel as you did on the other side of the seam, or if you do not have this regulator, again raise the presser foot very slightly and turn the flywheel 4 or 5 stitches to knot the thread.

Sew pockets into the washcloth

Fold the washcloth up onto the towel, hiding the seam which you just finished. Pin the washcloth in place, as shown in the illustration.

Stitch the side edges into place. If the hem on the washcloth is heavy, ask your leader to show you how to stitch just inside the hem to avoid bulk. If the hem is not heavy, stitch close to the edge by having the edge of the washcloth follow along the inside edge of the presser foot.

Pockets for the placemat or traveling kit are made by stitching the washcloth to the towel as shown in the illustration below.

To make the placemat, place a napkin, knife, fork, and spoon on the washcloth to give you an idea about the size of the pockets needed.

To make the traveling kit, choose the articles you would like to take and place them on the placemat.

Choose the stripes or checks nearest to the size pocket needed for each article; they will be your guide for stitching. Pin the washcloth to the towel along these stripes to make the pockets which you will stitch later. Slip the articles you want them to hold into the pockets to be sure you have left enough room for them. If everything slips into position easily, you are ready to sew. If not, the pockets can be made bigger by moving the pins to another stripe.

When you have decided which stripe you will use for each pocket, begin by backstitching at the lower seam and stitch up to the top of the washcloth. Backstitch again. One—two—three rows of stitching—and your pockets are finished!

Attach the tie to the towel

If the shoestring is very different in color from the towel, change the spool of thread to the color which matches the shoestring. Fold the shoestring in half. Pin the midpoint of the string to the towel at the point marked in the picture.

Fasten the string with very small stitches, by sewing back and forth across the width. Then clip threads close to the stitching line.

Finish your project

If you made a placemat insert a napkin, knife, fork, and spoon into the pockets. Or if you made a traveling kit, put your toilet articles or brushes in the pockets. Fold the upper edge down to cover the items. Then roll up the towel from the right to the left. Wrap the shoestring around it and tie it into a pretty bow. Your simple towel, washcloth, and shoestring have changed into _barbecue placemats_ ... or a useful _traveling kit_!

Complete your record book

Your record book is important. Examine it carefully. As a first year member, you have just started to build a 4-H record. Each year your record book adds a new chapter to your 4-H club story. Are you proud of your record book?

Show others what you have learned

Displays Invite your friends and neighbors to see what you have made. Be sure your articles are clean and well-pressed and that they look as nice as you can make them.

Demonstrations A demonstration means “to show someone else how to do something.” Choose one special thing you have learned and use it for your demonstration.

Here are a few suggestions:

How to use the shears to cut smooth, even edges How to use pins, a pincushion, and a thimble How to make a divided sewing box How to start, stop, and control the speed of the sewing machine How to guide material through the machine How to use the stitch regulator How to stitch straight (following a line or the presser foot) How to develop good sewing habits How to measure with a seam gauge or ruler How to press with a steam iron How to make a hem How to turn a corner during stitching How to match colors in materials and thread How to hand baste How to top-stitch

Are you ready for the next project?

........ Have you learned the parts of the sewing machine and how to use them? ........ Have you been careful of your personal grooming? ........ Have you studied and improved your posture? ........ Have you made two or more articles using the sewing machine? ........ Have you kept your record book up to date?

THE 4-H CLUB PLEDGE I pledge ... my HEAD to clearer thinking my HEART to greater loyalty my HANDS to larger service my HEALTH to better living for my club, my community, and my country. THE 4-H CLUB MOTTO to make the best better

Cooperative Extension work in Agriculture and Home Economics, F. E. Price, director, Oregon State University and the United States Department of Agriculture cooperating. Printed and distributed in furtherance of Acts of Congress of May 8 and June 30, 1914.

20M—September 1961.

Transcriber’s Notes

—Silently corrected a few typos.

—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook is public-domain in the country of publication.

—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by _underscores_.

End of Project Gutenberg's It's Fun to Sew with a Sewing Machine, by Anonymous