Part 1

IT’S FUN TO SEW with a sewing machine

COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY, CORVALLIS PHASE 1 4-H CLUB SERIES L-85

It’s Fun to Sew—With the Sewing Machine

Prepared by HILDEGARDE STRUEFERT Extension Clothing Specialist Oregon State University, Corvallis

PHASE 1

Where to find page Your guide for the project 1 Plan your project 1 Become acquainted with your sewing tools 2 Measuring tools 2 Cutting tools 3 Sewing tools 3 Organize a box or a basket for your tools and supplies 5 Learn to use mother’s sewing machine 6 Parts of the sewing machine 7 How to use the sewing machine 9 Enjoy good sewing habits 12 Start to sew 13 A shears case 13 Barbeque placemats or traveling kit 18 Complete your record book 23 Show others what you have learned 23 Displays 23 Demonstrations 23 Are you ready for the next project 23

_Read this book from cover to cover before you start your project._

Your guide for the project

What you will learn

1. The names and use of common sewing tools. 2. To organize a sewing box. 3. To develop good sewing habits. 4. To combine pretty colors. 5. To use the sewing machine.

What articles you will make

As a club member, you will be required to complete two articles.

First you will make _one_ practice article:

A case for your sewing shears.

Then you will make _one_ main project article:

A barbecue placemat or a traveling kit.

Start your record book

Attend all your meetings so that you will be able to complete your project as soon as possible. When your home agent gives you a 4-H record book and record sheets, she wants you to record the work you do on your project. Give her this information in writing. Tell her how much you enjoyed making the articles and how much you and your family enjoyed using them.

Learn to give a demonstration

Show others what “tricks” you have learned by giving a demonstration at one of your club meetings, or ask your mother to invite your family friends to your home. It will be fun to use the placemats or show them your other projects. They will be interested in how they were made. Tell them what you did and what you learned about using your mother’s sewing machine and the sewing tools.

Plan your project

Your projects will be more interesting if you plan them with your mother and leader, because they can help you to understand and enjoy your new adventures in sewing. Take your mother with you to your first meeting to introduce her to your leader and your friends. This will also give her an opportunity to see the kind of projects you will be working on during this year.

You will need your mother’s cooperation and advice in selecting both equipment and fabrics for the projects. She may be able to loan you some of her sewing tools too. Sharing with your mother as you work will help you learn to know each other better.

Before shopping for your supplies, read your bulletin to see what supplies are needed. Plan ahead so you can do all your shopping for your articles at one time.

It is not necessary for the colors of the fabrics used in these projects to match or even blend, because they are not going to be used together. But—since the articles may be exhibited together, they will look nicer if the colors look pretty when placed next to each other.

Become acquainted with your sewing tools

Measuring tools [Illustration: {Measuring gauges}]

Measuring gauge (6 inches) Ruler (12 inches) Yardstick (36 inches or 1 yard) Measuring Tape (60 inches)

Measuring tools are each marked with many short lines to help you measure fractions of an inch or inches.

⅛ inch ¼ inch ½ inch 1 inch

If you want to measure anything longer than 12 inches, you will need to use either the measuring tape or the yardstick.

12 inches—1 foot 24 inches—2 feet 36 inches—3 feet 48 inches—4 feet 60 inches—5 feet

1 yard 12 inches 24 inches 36 inches 1 foot 2 feet 3 feet

Cutting tools

If your mother has several types of cutting tools in her sewing box, you have already learned that shears and scissors will cut both fabric and thread, but one is easier to use for cutting thread than the other.

Little scissors like the small pair illustrated are meant to clip thread or cut narrow things like ribbon, elastic, etc. Scissors have very sharp and narrow points to make it possible to clip into tiny corners. Scissors have two handles the same size.

When you cut with scissors, put your thumb through one handle and a finger through the other. A pair of small scissors about 4 inches in length is easy to handle.

Shears are larger than scissors, and they are used for cutting a pattern out of material. Shears have one large handle and one small one. When you cut with shears, place your thumb through the small handle and two or three fingers through the larger handle. A pair of 7-inch shears is a good size for you.

Sewing tools

Needles

When you buy needles, search for slender ones with long eyes. If they are slender, they will slip in and out of the material without much effort. The long eye will be easier for you to thread. Also notice the length of the needles. Will they be easy for you to handle?

Pins

Pins are used to hold the pattern and material together while you cut out a pattern, or to help you hold the pieces of material together when you are getting ready to sew.

If you borrow some pins from your mother, you will be a smart little girl if you notice whether they _slip_ into your material easily. Avoid using pins that are too large or have a blunt point. They are likely to snag or tear the material.

If you buy new pins, ask the saleslady for _brass pins_. These are strong pins, but fine in size.

Pincushion

To help you develop the habit of putting pins and needles into a pincushion, always remember to wear your pincushion when you sew. If you drop pins or needles they are hard to find because they are small and will easily slip into a hiding place, where they may hurt someone later.

The wrist pincushion is the most convenient. If you are right-handed, wear the pincushion near your wrist on your left arm. If you are left-handed, wear the pincushion near your wrist on your right arm.

Thimble

People who sew usually wear thimbles for several reasons. They help to push the needle through the material, and they protect the finger from being pricked by the needle.

To push the needle through the material with the end of the thimble, hold the needle between the thumb and the first finger so that the eye end of the needle is resting against the end of the thimble.

When you begin to use the sewing machine, you will be snipping many threads. Keep the area around your sewing table neat by using a paper bag for a wastebasket for scraps of material, paper, and thread. Fasten it to the edge of the table where you can reach it easily when you are sitting at the machine.

Organize a box or basket for tools and supplies

All of your sewing tools are like a happy family—each has a job to do to help you sew. You will therefore, find it helpful to know where your tools are and to keep them in place when you are not using them, instead of leaving your thimble on the arm of a chair, the shears hidden under a newspaper, or a bobbin in your pocket.

A box is easy to organize into an equipment box and convenient to store in your dresser drawer, on your closet shelf, or in a bigger box which will hold your projects.

You should look for two kinds of boxes—one large box and many small ones. The large box should be sturdy, clean, and long enough to hold your longest tool. The pincushion may become the tallest tool when it is covered with pins and needles.

The small boxes may vary in size. Tiny boxes like those used for earrings are good for small items like the thimble, bobbins, etc. Bigger boxes are needed for the pincushion, thread, and other items.

When you have all of your boxes collected you will be ready to start your project.

Separate the box tops from the boxes. Then arrange the smaller boxes so they fit into the larger box. Be sure to save enough space for the 12-inch ruler or the length of your shears. Then have mother help you staple or paste the sides of the open boxes together and fasten them into the large box.

To make this box even more useful, you could label each little partition with the names of the tools or supplies you plan to store in each, as shown in the picture of a well organized box on page 6.

If you would rather have a container which could be easily carried from room to room, you might like to buy a fishing tackle box like your brother uses for his supplies. Choosing one with dividers in it will help you to organize your sewing tools very nicely.

Some girls use little doll suitcases, or a small cosmetic case like grown-ups use when traveling. Either of these are very nice, because they are usually pretty in color, and will open up wide so you can see all your sewing tools at one time. They also have a latch to fasten the cover and a handle which makes them easy to carry.

Masking Tape or Scotch Tape Thread Pin Cushion Measuring Tape Seam Gauge (Sewing machine attachment) Pins Dressmaker Chalk Bobbins Needles Thimble Paper Bag 12 inch Ruler Case Holding Shears and Scissors, Measuring Gauge

Learn to use mother’s sewing machine

What could be more exciting than to learn to use a machine which has “magic power.” Of course, I know when you are older you are going to learn to drive the family car (which you’ve heard dad say has all sorts of magic power). But did you know that mother’s sewing machine has “magic power,” too? The nicest thing is that you do not have to wait until you are grown up to use it. Even though you are only 9 or 10 years old, you are ready to learn the secrets of the sewing machine right now. You will no longer be standing by watching mother or sister sew. Instead, after you have learned some of the secrets of sewing with a machine, you can make many exciting things for yourself, your family, and your friends.

So come—let’s get acquainted with this wonderful machine!

Now look at your sewing machine and find the parts which look similar to the pictures below. Every machine has these parts, though some designs may look just a little different. Your leader will show you how each part works.

Thread Guides Take-up Lever Bobbin Winder Balance Wheel Presser Foot Lever Stitch Regulator Presser Foot Needle

Parts of the sewing machine

Types of control levers

How to use the sewing machine

Is your chair the right height?

• Can you see the needle easily as it moves up and down? • Are you able to reach behind the needle? • Can you rest your arms on the table? • Do your feet touch the floor?

If you cannot see the needle or rest your arms on the table, you will need a taller chair or something to sit on to raise you up a bit. If your feet do not touch the floor (after you are sitting in the position to see the needle) and your machine has a foot control you will have to find a sturdy box. It should be large enough to rest both of your feet, as well as the foot control from the machine.

How to start and stop the machine

With your machine unthreaded and the presser foot raised, it is ready for you to start. Place your right hand on the balance wheel. (It will help you to start the machine in motion.)

Keep your left hand a distance from the needle to avoid this—

How to speed up and slow down

Place your foot or knee on the control or treadle.

See how slowly you can make the needle go up and down. If the machine runs too fast for you, you can press your right hand against the balance wheel to slow it down.

Practice until your foot or knee can control the speed evenly from fast to slow, without using your right hand on the balance wheel.

How to stitch correctly

Slip a piece of material under the presser foot. (Your leader will have a piece for you.) Lower the needle into the material by rolling your right hand on the balance wheel until the needle goes down as far as possible. Then lower the presser foot onto the material.

Let the machine run without your hands touching the material. You will notice that it will slip and slide in many directions. To guide the material, hold your left hand on it with your fingers curved as if you were holding a ball in your hand. If you hold it gently, you can guide the material as it slips under your fingers without interrupting its movement as it is being sewn. Try it!

Your right hand will also help you to guide the material. As soon as the machine is in motion, take your right hand off the balance wheel. You will soon discover that you will have to practice the trick of sewing straight.

Slow down your speed when you near the end of your material so that you can stop when you reach the edge. Roll the balance wheel to raise the needle—then lift the presser foot to remove the material.

How to use the stitch regulator

If your sewing machine has a lever which makes it sew backward, try to use it now. Move the stitch regulator up as far as it will go. As you start the machine you will see it moving backward. In order to stitch forward again, push the lever back down as far as it will go. As you will learn in your projects, you will always have to sew very slowly and carefully when you sew backward in order to do it nicely.

Another reason the stitch regulator is on your machine is to make the stitches larger or smaller for you, whichever is best for the material with which you are working.

Some machines have numbers next to the lever to tell you the number of stitches per inch. If your machine does not have such numbers, you will be able to tell the number of stitches per inch by putting a line of stitching into a piece of material, and counting the number of stitches sewn in a one-inch space.

How to practice stitching

Mark some straight and curved lines on your piece of material. (Paper may also be used but it dulls the needle; material is best.)

Roll the balance wheel to lower the needle at the end of one of the lines. Lower the presser foot and start the machine. Slowly stitch the entire line (without thread), guiding your material so the needle follows the line as much as possible. Practice stitching along a marked line without thread, going backward and forward with both small and large stitches.

When you can control the speed of the machine and stitch straight, you have learned some important secrets of mother’s sewing. Soon you will be ready to start on your first project.

How to thread the machine

Would you like to be able to thread the machine as easily as your leader threads it? Ask her to do it very slowly for you so you can learn it from her. Watch closely as she hooks the thread onto every finger of each thread guide until she finally reaches the needle. She will also show you where the bobbin hides (remember this is the flat spool in the lower part of the machine) and how you will get its thread to the top of the machine.

After you have threaded the machine be sure to have your leader check it before you try to sew. If you want the machine to “work like magic” you will have to have it threaded correctly.

Stitching with a threaded machine

You have probably learned how to follow a marked line very well by this time. It is also important to see that you will be able to do as well when you actually stitch with thread.

Enjoy good sewing habits

Hint number 1

The first important hint to know is—“Join the Clean Clan Club” whenever you sew!

Hands freshly washed and nails clean, too will help keep your projects looking like new.

Clean clothes—“a must” while handling cloth, for fear some dust and grime may rub off.

Last of all—your table must gleam to protect nice materials from soil unseen.

So—_Clean Hands, Clean Clothes, Clean Table_, too, is an important trick for you.

Hint number 2

“The Clean Clan Clubs” can boastful be of unsoiled projects, delightful to see.

But here’s another hint for you— to keep you from wrinkling your fabrics so new.

Your lap’s too small and too far away to hold your project by night or by day.

But—your table clean would love to hold the bulk of that fabric, while you pin that fold.

So,—trick number 2, in this sewing trade is—_work on a table_ to get your projects made.

Hint number 3

Here’s one last, special hint for you— and something easy we would like you to do.

Look at yourself—as you start to sew. How do you sit? And how are your feet below?

Think of your posture—it’s no chore— _to keep your back straight, with both feet on the floor_.

You won’t get tired so quickly then and you’ll enjoy stitching again and again.

Start to sew

If you have learned to run the sewing machine smoothly, and to thread it correctly, you are ready to start making something useful.

A shears case The first article you will make is a shears case. It can be used to store your shears in your sewing box. This will help remind you that these are special shears and should be used only for cutting fabric. Cutting paper will make them dull.

A shears case will protect the sharp points from being damaged by hitting other tools in the box. It will also protect your fingers when you reach for your shears or for your other sewing tools.

What you will learn

• To recognize the feel and appearance of felt or nonwoven interfacing. • To choose and buy pretty material and thread. • To read ruler measurements. • To make a pattern according to measurements. • To pin a pattern to the material. • To handle the shears when cutting material. • To use tailor’s chalk or a tailor’s pencil for marking around the pattern. • To use the stitch regulator for backstitching and adjusting the size of stitches. • To use the toe of the presser foot as a marked line for stitching straight. • To make a hem and stitch it.

What you will do first

To make a shears case you will need to buy felt or nonwoven interfacing (suit-weight), thread, and tailor’s chalk or pencil.

If your shears are 8 inches or less in length, the felt swatches (9 inches wide and 12 inches long) sold in many stores are a good buy. If your shears are over 8 inches long see page 14 for directions. Ask your leader or your mother to help you decide how much fabric you will need.

If it is easy for you to stitch straight, try a color of thread which is different from your material to add color to your case.

If you are still having difficulty stitching on a straight line, it would be better to use thread which matches your material because mistakes will be less easy to see. You can use either regular or heavy duty thread.

Tools and supplies you will need to make the case are as follows.

Pencil 12-inch ruler Paper shears Fabric Paper Thread Bobbin Tailor’s chalk or tailor’s pencil Shears

How to make the shears case

Make a paper pattern

Measure the length of your shears on a piece of paper. Mark this length with lines AB and CD. Then draw a vertical line between these two lines by placing a ruler on the lines as shown.

Measure the width of the shears by placing them on the vertical line so that the intersection of the handles and the points of the shears rest on the line.

Measure across the widest part of the handles. (Ask your leader to help you read the ruler.) Label points E and G. Also measure the width ½ inch from the point of the shears. Label these two points as F and H.

Make a pattern for the pocket by drawing lines with your ruler, from point E to F and G to H. Extend these lines to the full length of the shears.

Mark the fabric; follow the illustration

Use your ruler to measure and mark your fabric. It is most important that you are careful to measure accurately and mark very straight lines. Use tailor’s chalk or tailor’s pencil for marking. Then ask your leader to check your material and your markings. They must be perfectly marked to prevent trouble when you sew the case together later.

Cut the fabric