Part 2

Pull on heel and toe seam and the slippers will cover the elastic. Trim your slippers with pompons or buttons.

5. To make the pompons, use a four-tined table fork. Cut a piece of yarn about 6 inches long and place through the center tine of the fork. Bring both ends down and hold next to the handle. Now wrap the yarn around the tines, either weave it in and out of the tines or wrap smoothly around. When the tines are completely covered, bring the two ends which you are holding with the handle up around the other yarn and tie a knot, at the same time slipping the yarn from the fork. Tie securely. Clip through looped ends and fluff into a ball.

Sew pompons to center front of slipper to cover opening for elastic.

You may use buttons to trim your slippers instead of the pompons. Select flat buttons that can be washed. Use one average or large button or three small ones on each toe. (See “How to sew on a button,” page 2.)

Select yarn or buttons that will look nice on your slippers. They may be the same color as the slippers or another color that will look good on them. Try several colors. Medium colored buttons rather than black or other dark colors look best on pale colored slippers.

Make your apron or skirt

Aprons and skirts are fun and easy to make. This will probably be the first apron or skirt you have ever made all by yourself. Your leader will show you how to make it, step by step. Follow her instructions and you will learn to sew in no time at all. Learn to do each step right the first time.

Choose one that you would like to make

1. Peasant-type skirt

2. Peasant apron with straight band

3. Peasant apron with elastic top

Plan to have one or two pockets on your apron or skirt.

Peasant apron with band

You will need to buy:

30 inches of 39-inch percale or other firm cotton fabric—if you are taller you will need more material to make your apron longer. 1 spool of matching thread

SELVAGE APRON 20 × 32½ 5 × 32½ SASHES 5 × 32½ SELVAGE 6½ × 18 BAND POCKETS 5 × 6½ 5 × 6½

Measure and cut your apron

Mark the apron according to the diagram.

Band 6½ x 18 inches Apron skirt 20 x 32½ inches Two sashes 32½ x 5 inches One or two pockets 6½ x 5 inches

Measure and mark off these pieces with chalk or pins before cutting. Cut with long, even strokes.

Make your sashes

Fold the right sides of each sash together. Place pins across the stitching lines as shown in the diagram. Make a ¼-inch seam along the side and end of the sash. Backstitch for two or three stitches to make the end of your thread secure. Trim off the corner.

Check the stitch on your machine. Be sure it looks the same on both sides of the fabric.

Press the seam open and turn the sash. Use the end of a table knife or ruler for turning. Press the sash flat, keeping the seam at the edge. Make the corners square.

If you prefer to hem the sash, make a ¼-inch hem, miter the corners. See instructions on scarf, pages 7 and 8.

Press and stitch hems

Side hems

1. Make a ¼-inch hem on each side of the apron. To make a hem, press a ¼-inch fold on the side edges of your apron (20-inch sides). Press with your fingers, then with the iron.

2. Fold edge over again ¼ inch and press. Stitch along edge of hem. This completes the hem.

_Selvage edge_—If the selvage is used, clip only the very edge of it every 2 or 3 inches. This prevents puckering when it is laundered. Fold the edge over ¼ inch, press and stitch. A double hem is not needed.

Bottom hem

Make a 3-inch hem on the bottom of your apron. Measure and turn ¼-inch fold at bottom of apron. Press. From this edge measure 3 inches, fold, and press. Pin and stitch the hems. Use matching thread. Stitch as near as you can to the edge of the hem. Backstitch on both ends of hem.

Gather the top edge

Divide the top edge of your skirt into four equal parts.

Set your cloth guide for a ¼-inch seam. Lengthen your stitch to make the largest stitch possible.

Make three rows of stitching along the top of the apron, placing rows ¼ inch apart. Place the first row ¼ inch from the edge. Be sure to follow the guide.

Make your apron band

Your apron band is made the same way as a skirt band, only the proportions are different. Turn to page 14 for illustrations.

1. Press a ½-inch fold along one side of your 18-inch band. Divide the band, lengthwise into three equal parts. This gives three 2-inch sections. Make the section with the ½-inch fold slightly shorter than the other two sections. Place a damp press cloth over the folded band and press sharp creases along the folds.

2. The section with the ½-inch fold is the front of your band. The double part is the back. Stitch criss-cross through the back part of the band. You can stitch straighter if you make a guide or pattern. Cut a strip of waxed paper the length and width of your band, 18 x 2 inches.

Fold in four equal sections.

Then fold it diagonally. Then diagonally again. Open the paper and pin it to the band and follow the creases in the paper. This will give practice on starting and stopping the machine and on turning corners. Tear the paper away after the stitching is completed.

3. Pin and sew the end of the sashes to the end of the band. Fold the band right sides together, and stitch across ends. Do not sew the ½-inch fold at bottom of band into the seam.

Stitch both sides. Turn and press along the original crease.

Sew apron to band

Be sure the edges of the band and apron are marked in four equal parts. Place the right side of the apron to the right side of the band. Match the quarter marks and pin. Place the hemmed ends of the apron at the seam ends of the band. Ease in the fullness in the apron until it fits the band. Pull all bobbin threads from each end at the same time. Pull gently so you do not break the threads. Spread the gathers so they are even and pin. Baste along the second row of gathering and the crease in the band. Machine stitch along the bastings. Press.

Pin so back edge of band is ⅛ inch longer than edge of front of band. Top stitch along front edge of band. This finishes your band. Be sure to press the band before you stitch. It will make stitching easier.

Add your pockets

Pockets are for both use and decoration. Make patch pockets that are securely stitched and have no raw edges at the top.

Press the side and bottom hems of the pocket first. Then fold the top hem over and stitch in place. Study the most convenient location for your pocket. Baste it in place. Check to see that it is even. Reinforce the top of the pocket with double stitching, as shown in the drawing. Stitching is ¼ inch apart.

Remove gathering stitches and press your apron.

Peasant apron with elastic top

You will need to buy

30 inches of cotton fabric 1 spool of matching thread 14 inches of ½-inch elastic

Measure and cut your apron

Cut your apron 20 x 31 inches. This will fit a girl of size 10 to 12. Make this longer than 20 inches if you are tall.

Cut two sashes 26 x 5 inches.

Cut two pockets 5 x 5 inches.

Make sashes and hems the same as for peasant apron with band, page 10.

31 in. 20in. APRON 5in. 26 in. Pocket 5in. 5in. SASHES Pocket 5in.

Make the side hems ¼ inch wide and the top and bottom hems 2 inches wide.

Gather the top

1. Make a heading or hem at the top of your apron. From the top edge of the apron, measure down ¾ inch and mark with pins or chalk. Start stitching at upper corner and slope to ¾-inch line. Stitch across the apron and slope up to the corner.

2. Stitch one sash to end of ½-inch elastic. Thread elastic through heading. Then stitch other sash to end of elastic. Pull ends of sashes into heading of apron.

3. Finish ends of bottom hem with a slip or blind stitch.

The slip stitch is used on a hem with a folded edge.

Fasten the knotted thread in the fold of the hem. Slip the needle through the fold for about ½ inch. Pick up one thread in the skirt or, if the fabric permits, split a thread with the needle. This thread should lie at right angles to the hem edge. Slip the needle back into the fold of the fabric, and continue hemming. Stitches are almost as invisible on the wrong side as the right side of the skirt.

Gathered skirt

Select fabric that is colorful and gay for your skirt. Closely woven cloth will be easy to sew and will hold a sharp crease.

You will need from 3 to 3½ yards of fabric for your skirt. The more fabric you try to gather in your skirt the harder it will be to make. For the girl of average height cut your skirt as follows:

How to cut your skirt

Cut or tear a 6½-inch strip from one side of your skirt fabric. Measure in from the selvage edge. Use this for the skirt band and pockets. There will be some left over.

Tear off the selvage edge from the large piece.

6½″ SELVAGE BAND POCKET POCKET CUT OR TEAR SELVAGE

You may have to cut the band from the end of your fabric instead of the side if you are tall and need the extra length.

The above method of cutting gives you one seam on the placket side.

Sometimes the design in the fabric will be more attractive if the skirt is cut in several lengths. When this is necessary, you will have three or four seams in your skirt. This may make a difference in the amount of fabric you will need, so decide how you will cut your skirt before buying your fabric.

Make your skirt

Pin the short edges together to make the side seam. Make the seam 1¼ inches wide. It is to be used for the placket. When finished, the placket will be on the left side.

Stitch the side seam. Stitch the seam from the bottom up. At a point 5 inches from the top, turn and stitch half way across the seam. Turn both edges of the seam toward the front section and press.

Trim the seams. Start at the bottom of the wide seam and trim it to ⅝ inch wide up to the placket. Do not trim above this point.

Finish the placket

1. Baste and stitch a ½-inch hem on the back edge of the placket.

2. Fold the front edge of the placket even with seam line. Press. Now fold again to make a complete hem. Baste.

Pin placket together. Stitch from the top to the bottom of the placket, turn and stitch across the end of first stitching. Pull threads through and tie ends. This is a strong, easy-to-make placket.

Hem the skirt

Skirts look best with hand-stitched hems. Make the hem before placing the band on the skirt. Unless you have poor posture, it will hang even. Decide how long you would like your finished skirt to be. Be careful not to make it too short. Measure from the top edge to the length you would like the skirt to be and press in the hem. Turn the top edge of the hem under ½ inch. Your skirt will be prettier if you make a wide hem—3 inches or wider.

When the hem has been carefully pressed, stitch ⅛ inch from the fold of the top edge of the hem, to keep the fold in place. Pin hem in place. Ask your leader to show you a hand hemming stitch.

Place gathering threads at top of skirt

Make a long stitch on your machine. Use size 50 top thread and heavy duty for bobbin thread.

Using the guide on your machine, stitch around the top of your skirt ¼ inch from the edge. Make two more rows ¼ inch apart. You are now ready to make your skirt band.

Make the skirt band

1. Measure your waist. Add 2½ inches. This will give you the length needed for your skirt band. Cut your band 6½ inches wide.

2. Press a ½-inch fold along one side of your band. From the folded edge divide the rest into three sections. This gives three 2-inch sections. Make the section with the ½-inch fold slightly shorter than the other two sections. Press.

3. The section with the ½-inch fold is the front of your band. Stitch criss-cross through the back part of the band. You can stitch straighter if you make a guide or pattern. Cut a strip of waxed paper the length and width of your band, 24 x 2 inches.

Fold it in six equal sections. Then fold it diagonally. Then diagonally again. Open the paper and pin it to the band and follow the creases in the paper. This will give practice on starting and stopping the machine and on turning corners. Tear the paper away after the stitching is completed.

4. Stitch a ½-inch seam at the ends of the band. Turn and press. Do not sew the ½-inch fold at the bottom of band into the seam.

Gather in fullness

Divide both your skirt and the skirt band into eight equal parts to help you make the gathers even in your skirt. Do not include the placket or 1-inch overlap at the end of the band. Mark with colored threads. Mark the skirt band so the extension or extra length will be on the back of the placket. The front of band will be even with the front edge of the placket.

Pin and stitch band to skirt.

Pin the pieces together, right side of skirt to right side of band. Match dividing marks that you have made. Gently pull on the gathering threads at the side seams, the center front, and the center back. Pull the threads until they are the same length as the band. Work with the gathers until they are even. Baste and stitch along ½-inch fold on the skirt band.

Top stitch the band

Fold the double section of your band toward the back and baste the edge of the band to the skirt. Baste it so the folded edge hangs just below the stitching you just made on the front side of the band. Machine stitch from the front side of the band. Place the stitching as near the edge of the band as you can. Press before you stitch. It will flatten the seam and make stitching easier.

Press your skirt

Press your skirt. Use a dampened cheese-cloth and an iron set for ironing cotton, or use a steam iron. A skirt must be well pressed and fresh looking to be pretty.

Fastenings for the skirt

Study the drawing above. It shows the placing for fasteners on your skirt. Sewing them in this position will keep the placket from gaping. Sew a snap fastener in the center of the placket if it is needed to keep it closed. Do not try to set in a zipper. Use hooks and eyes or buttons for fastening this band.

_Buttons and buttonholes_—When buttons and buttonholes are used, make the buttonhole lengthwise of the band. Place it far enough from the end of the band so there will be at least ¼ inch beyond the button when it is sewed in place. Measure half the distance across your button and add ¼ inch for this measurement.

Learn to use the machine attachment for making buttonholes. They are stronger and easier for you to make than hand-made buttonholes. Have your leader, mother, or a neighbor set it up for you and show you how to use it. After you have made a few sample buttonholes, make some in your apron or on your skirt. If you have a machine with a zig-zag stitch, learn to make buttonholes on it.

Pin the band together and mark place for buttons. See page 2 for instructions for sewing on buttons.

Sew fasteners to skirt band

_Snaps_—Examine the snap fasteners. One part has a ball on top. This is placed on the front part or top of your placket. The other part has a hole or socket and is placed on the back or under part of the placket. Place them exactly opposite each other on your placket.

Sew the top snap on first. Mark the placing of the bottom part of the snaps by rubbing chalk on the ball and then pinning placket together. Press ball against fabric. The chalk will rub off and mark the exact spot to sew the under part of the snap.

Sew snap fasteners on with several over-and-over stitches. Be sure to hide your knot under the snap. Sew securely through all four holes. When you cross from one hole to the other, take a stitch in the cloth and bring your needle up from the under side to the next hole.

_Hooks and eyes_—Each package of hooks and eyes, has two types of eyes, a round and a straight. Use the round eye for your skirt. Sew the hook on the inside edge of the top part of your band. (You will need two.) Sew these with several over-and-over stitches.

Sew several stitches through the hook end. Pin the placket in place and place the round eye directly under the hook. Sew with several over-and-over stitches.

Press all the things you have made. Pressing will improve their appearance. Make sure they are clean.

Have each member of your club judge what you have made and then make the corrections they suggest.

How does your apron or skirt look to you?

Once again, score your own and other club members’ work. These are the points to use in judging:

_Your score_

1. Fabric or trimming used 25 _____ Is it suitable for aprons and skirts? Will it launder? Will it wear well? 2. Workmanship 35 _____ Are seams, hems, finish good choices? Are they well made? 3. Design and color 20 _____ Are design and color attractive? Are they right for you? 4. Condition of article 10 _____ Is it clean? Is it well-pressed? 5. Value of garment 10 _____ Is there good value for the time and money spent? Total 100 _____

Complete your record book

Your record book is important. Examine it carefully. Have you completed your clothing record? Have you recorded your activities as well as your project summary on your permanent record? Have you written your 4-H story for the year? In your story tell how you feel about the things you have made and the experiences you have had.

Each year your record book will add another chapter to your 4-H Club story. You will have fun looking back at each chapter as the years go by. Is this chapter as complete as you would like it to be?

You may want to keep a scrapbook of pictures and newspaper stories to go along with your record book.

Show others what you have learned

Exhibits

It is fun to let others see what you have done. Your club may want to plan a display for your families. You may want to exhibit your work at a fair. If you do, your exhibit will be the main article you made. Be sure your article is clean and pressed and clearly labeled so it can be returned to you.

Give a demonstration

A demonstration means “to show someone else how to do something.” Select one small subject for your demonstration. Avoid one that has too many parts or details. Here are some suggestions:

How to sew on a button How to make a pocket How to shine your shoes How to thread a needle How to thread a sewing machine How to make a scarf How to make washcloth slippers How to make a mitered corner How to make a hem How to make gathers How to make a sash for an apron How to make a skirt band How to make a hemmed placket

Because everything you use for sewing is small, you will need to make your samples large. Use contrasting thread, large stitches, and make large buttons so the audience can see what you are doing.

Are you ready for the next project?

1. Have you kept your shoes clean and shining? 2. Have you studied and improved your health habits? 3. Have you sewed buttons on family clothing? 4. Have you kept your record book up to date? 5. Have you made two or more articles?

Keep this bulletin. You will need it for your next project. When you have completed all the 4-H clothing projects, you will have a complete sewing book.

OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY

SERVES EVERY FAMILY

County, State, and Federal governments cooperate with Oregon State University to make the latest information available to everyone.

—Homemaking and Consumer Information

—4-H Club and Other Youth Education

—Community Development

—Agricultural Production and Marketing

—Development, Use, and Conservation of Natural Resources

—Marketing and Use of Agricultural and Forest Products

4-H Club Work is the Youth Education Program of the Cooperative Extension Service; 5,500 Volunteer Adult Leaders and 1,500 Junior Leaders guide 35,000 4-H members in 4,200 clubs in every county and city in Oregon.

Cooperative Extension work in Agriculture and Home Economics, F. E. Price, director. Oregon State University and the United States Department of Agriculture cooperating. Printed and distributed in furtherance of Acts of Congress of May 8 and June 30, 1914.

6M—Reprinted May 1964.

Transcriber’s Notes

—Silently corrected a few typos.

—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook is public-domain in the country of publication.

—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by _underscores_.

End of Project Gutenberg's It's Fun to Sew Aprons and Skirts, by Anonymous