Part 1

IT’S FUN TO SEW a cotton school dress

COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY, CORVALLIS PHASE 3 4-H CLUB SERIES L-87

It’s Fun to Sew—Cotton School Dress

Prepared by THETA JOHNSON Clothing Specialist, Extension Service Utah State University Logan, Utah

PHASE 3

Where to find page Your guide for the project 1 Plan your project 1 Your anklets 2 Improve your grooming 2 Care of your hair 2 Patterns for you 3 Fabrics you will like 4 Before you start to sew 5 Study your pattern 5 Straighten your fabric 5 Pin and cut 6 Check your machine 6 Practice on an easy-to-make article 7 Drawstring bag 7 Swimming robe 8 Apron or scarf 9 Make clothes for school or play 9 Blouse 9 Gathered skirt 9 Gored skirt 12 School dress 12 How does your costume look to you? 12 Tips for easier sewing 13 Belt keepers 16 Darts 13 Facings 14 Fastenings 16 Gathers 11 Guide lines 13 Hems 15 Markings 13 Seams 14 Seam finishes 14 Skirt band 11 Skirt placket 10 Stay-stitching 13 Tailor’s tacks 13 Complete your record book 17 Show others what you have learned 17 Exhibits 17 Demonstrations 17 Are you ready for the next project? 17

_Read this book from cover to cover before you start your project._

Your guide for the project

This project is for you who have learned the lessons of Clothing Phases 1 and 2. You are now ready to do more advanced sewing.

Third phase clothing features clothing for school and play. It includes points on health and good grooming for you to study and use. You will learn to stretch the life of your clothes. Take turns leading discussions and giving demonstrations for your club. Look at “Tips for Easier Sewing,” page 13. They will aid you in improving your sewing.

What to study

1. Care of clothing—learn to keep your clothing in its proper place. 2. Buying anklets and how to care for them. 3. Habits to improve health and grooming. 4. Style, material, and construction of easy-to-make clothes for school and play. 5. Taking part in special events such as judging, demonstrations, and exhibits.

Articles to make

Make one of these articles:

Swimming robe Scarf Peasant apron Draw-string bag

This will help you review what you learned in the other projects and to get the feel of using the sewing machine.

Make one of these articles:

School dress Skirt and blouse

Add to your 4-H record book

Your county extension agent will give you a clothing record sheet and a sheet for your 4-H Club story for this year. Place them in front of last years’ records. Keep your records as you go. You may record the articles you make other than those that are required for your project, unless you have made them for some other program or class. Keep a record of the activities you participate in (such as tours, demonstrations, judging, camps, and exhibits) for your permanent record.

Demonstrate to your club

Give a demonstration at one of your club meetings. Show others what you have learned. When you show another club member how to tie a knot or sew on a button, you are giving a “demonstration.” Things that are done or seen are remembered longest and clearest. Work alone or with a partner. Plan to enter a community or county demonstration contest. Ask your leader for help on how to give a demonstration. Choose a topic you will study in your project.

Plan your project

You will have fun making and buying clothing for school or play. Plan this project with your leader and your mother. Remember that mother is a partner in this project. Talk to her about what you want to make and show her this project book. She will be glad to give you suggestions and help you make a wise selection if she knows what you are to make.

First you will study how to buy and care for your anklets.

The first article you will make is to help you review what you learned in your last project and to help you get the feel of the sewing machine again. There is a wide choice—select something that you can make in a short time. Complete this article before you start your dress or skirt and blouse.

The second article is to be the main part of your project. Here you will learn many new sewing methods. Select something you have not made before. Choose something that will teach you two or three new tricks in sewing, but be careful to avoid dresses with many details such as collars, cuffs, and sleeves on one pattern.

Your anklets

Buying anklets

It is important that you learn to select your own clothing. Why not start with buying your anklets? You will wear anklets for many occasions—sports, school, and best. Select them for the occasion for which you intend to wear them.

You will find anklets made of many fibers—cotton, rayon, nylon, wool, or a combination of these fibers. Each of these fibers makes the anklets feel and wear differently. Cotton anklets are soft and absorbent. They are comfortable to wear. A good quality cotton anklet holds its shape and wears well.

Rayon anklets are not as soft or as absorbent as cotton and may not wear as well. Nylon anklets are made of staple yarn (silk-like) and of spun yarn (wool-like). They give long wear but are not as comfortable as cotton. This is because they are not as absorbent. Wool socks are usually worn by athletes and people whose feet perspire a lot, because they are absorbent. They will hold a lot of moisture and not feel wet.

Read the labels

A combination of cotton and nylon makes a desirable anklet. You will find anklets made of cotton with toes and heels reinforced with nylon for longer wear. Blends of nylon and cotton or other fibers are also used. Anklets are made of many new and different kinds of yarns and knits to add patterns and stretch. New finishes are also used. Some finishes help to hold the shape and control shrinkage. The finish may require special care and washing.

A good anklet is closely knit, has a top which will hold its shape, and the cuff is knitted to the foot. It comes in colors which harmonize with your dresses or sweaters and skirts. It is “fast color” and will not fade.

Buy the right size anklets

To be comfortable anklets should be one half inch longer than your foot. Short socks are injurious to your feet. They do not wear as long as properly-fitted ones.

Visit your store to study the newest types of socks for teenagers.

Care of anklets

Good care will help your anklets to last longer. Wash your socks after each wearing. Use a mild soap or detergent and warm water. Have the water as hot as you can comfortably hold your hands in. Rinse the socks thoroughly in clear water and hang them by the toes to dry. White socks may be washed with the family laundry. Always wash dark-colored ones by hand.

Improve your grooming

Care of your hair

Study the care of your hair for your good grooming lesson. Learn to comb, brush, shampoo, and arrange it. Invite the beautician or hair dresser in your community to talk at a club meeting. She will be glad to show you how to care for and style your hair. Have her show you how to make pincurls, waves, or rolls.

Shiny, clean-looking hair adds to your good looks. It shows the condition of your health. Poor health, lack of rest, or poor food can make your hair look dull. But more often, dull hair is due to lack of care. You can add to the luster of your hair by shampooing it often. Brushing will also add to its beauty.

Shampoo

The base of any good hair style is a good shampoo. There is no set time for a shampoo. Shampoo your hair when it is soiled. You may want to shampoo it every five days if your hair is oily. Every week may be often enough if it is dry.

Use plenty of warm water and a good shampoo when you wash your hair. Shampoos are made for oily, normal, and dry hair. Ask the beautician which one is best for your hair. Rinse thoroughly to remove the shampoo and to add luster to your hair.

Style

Since your hair is a frame for your face, a nice arrangement adds to your good looks. Hair worn in a simple style is easy to manage. Good hair styling is important. If your hair is shaped properly, it will take the shape of the cut. Your hair styling will then be beautiful and becoming.

Here is a trick for finding your hair style. When your hair is wet, mold it around your face and try several parts. Try curving your part. It is more interesting than a straight one. Always bring out your beauty spots. If you have a beautiful hair line, display it.

Hair is styled for the individual. Try new hair styles. There are many designed for girls your age.

Brush and comb

Brush your hair regularly with a boar-bristle brush for stimulation and to cleanse your hair. Brush your hair carefully. Too vigorous brushing may break the ends of your hair. The same is true of combing.

Set your hair in pincurls as often as is necessary to have your hair look well-groomed. Comb your hair thoroughly when it is dry. Set the waves or curls by combing through the hair slowly. This gives you control of your hair.

Patterns for you

There are many attractive clothing patterns in our current fashion books. Choose a style you like and feel you can make. Be sure it has lines that are becoming to your figure and size. You may need a style that is entirely different from the one your girl friend needs. Your mother and leader will be glad to help you make a choice. This is probably the first time you have used a pattern. Select one that has only a few pieces. Avoid details such as collars, set-in sleeves, and yokes. Select a pattern you can wear to school.

The size pattern you will need is determined by your bust measurement.

After you have selected your pattern, study the chart on the back of the envelope. It will tell you how much fabric you need and what trimmings to buy. Buy your pattern and fabric at the same time.

Fabrics you will like

When you select your fabric, the important thing to think about is: What am I going to make from this fabric? When and where will I wear it? Then choose the right design, color, and weight for your pattern.

You will want fabrics that are pretty, fun to sew, and fun to wear.

Color

What colors do you like best? Usually the colors you like are the ones that flatter you. Hold the fabric to your face to see how you will look in it. Does it make your hair, eyes, and skin look prettier? Will it go with other colors of the clothing you already own? Is it a color you can wear to school this fall? Is it a color you can find thread and trimming to match? It is the color for you if it meets all these requirements.

Design

Study the fabrics for the size, color, and placing of the design in the fabric. Do you want to count the number of spots on it? Is the design too large or too small? A design that is small with interesting colors without one part of the design being brighter than all others will make the prettier dress or apron.

Larger, brighter, and bolder designs and colors make attractive beach robes and bags. You will find it more difficult to make an attractive dress or apron from plain colors, plaids, and stripes. Plain colors show every mistake you make and plaids and stripes are difficult to match. Border prints are used for pleated or gathered skirts. Try to match the design at the seams.

Cotton fabrics are beautiful and there are many types of fabrics made from cotton. Learn to recognize at least five: Percale, broadcloth, sail cloth, cotton satin, and terry cloth. There are many interesting novelty fabrics on the market. They have different weaves and finishes. When you visit the store see if you can find at least three novelty fabrics—embossed cotton, woven stripes, and a pattern weave.

New finishes

New finishes make cottons more crease resistant and easier to wash and iron. But finishes sometimes make fabrics harder to sew and press. You will find a finished cotton will make a crisper looking dress and will be worth the extra work it takes to press the seams while you are making it.

Labels

Read the information on the label on the end of the bolt. It will tell you if the fabric is color fast, shrink resistant, crease resistant, and either hand-or-machine washable. A good cotton fabric has all these features.

Examine the fabric

Examine a torn end of the fabric. If the ends and designs are uneven, look for another piece of fabric. An uneven fabric with a finish cannot be straightened and you will not be able to cut your dress on the straight of the grain. Crush the fabric in your hand. Select one that is soft and difficult to wrinkle.

Tours

Plan a shopping tour with your club. Take your mother with you so she can help you select fabrics for your projects.

Select all the fabrics you need for your project at one time. Choose colors and fabrics that look good together. Remember that you will be wearing your blouse with your skirt so they must look well together. The bag or scarf you make must also harmonize with your skirt and blouse or your other clothes.

Also think about the time you will finish your dress and select a style and color that will be pretty then.

Shopping is fun

Before you go shopping, make a list of all the things you will need to buy for your project—equipment, fabrics, thread. If you did not have a tracing wheel and paper last year, you may need them this year. Make it a habit to buy everything you need in one trip to the store.

_Fabrics for_— _Check what you need_

Dress or skirt [_] Beach bag or robe, scarf, or apron [_] Thread to match [_] Fasteners, hooks and eyes [_] snaps [_] zipper [_] buttons [_] velcro [_] Pattern, size [_] Scissors [_] Pins, dressmaker [_] Measuring gauge [_] Needles—7-9 sharp [_] Thimble [_] Tape measure [_]

Before you start to sew

Study your pattern

Study the instruction sheet carefully before you unfold your pattern. This will help you know each piece of your pattern as you unfold it. When unfolding it, put your initials on each piece.

You will find an arrow on each piece of the pattern that tells you how the pattern is to be placed on your cloth. This mark is called the “grain line.” Learn to recognize marks for fold, seamline, darts, tucks, hems, center front and center back, buttons, and buttonholes.

When you can recognize all the marks on your pattern, trim off the edges and pin it together. Have your leader check it for fit. She will help you make any alterations that are necessary.

Straighten your fabric

Study your fabric. You will find there are threads running lengthwise (warp threads) with other threads woven in and out of these (crosswise or filling threads). Each of these threads should be straight, not curved or slanted. If the end of the fabric has not been torn, pull one thread near the end that will go all the way across the fabric. Cut along this line.

Now if the ends of the fabric are not even, have your leader or mother help you straighten the cloth by pulling on the bias, as is being done in the picture.

When the cloth is straight, pin the edges together. Now pin the pattern to your cloth.

Crease-resistant fabric cannot be straightened.

Pin and cut

You need a large smooth surface for pinning and cutting. A big table is best, but you can use a clean floor.

Study your pattern layout. Fold your cloth and pin your pattern as suggested. Place the big pattern pieces on first. See that the line that shows the straight of the grain is placed exactly on the lengthwise “grain” or thread of the cloth.

SELVAGE STRAIGHT OF GRAIN

Measure from the selvage to this line, making sure the distance is equal at all points. Pin at each end of mark as measurements are made. Now pin around the edge of your pattern. Place the pins at right angles to the edge.

Have your leader check the pattern on your cloth before you cut.

Use long sharp shears. Take long strokes to give an even edge. Cut close to the pattern.

Cut notches out, not into your seam allowance.

Before you remove the pattern, mark all darts, tucks, seams, buttons, and buttonholes. Ask your leader to show you how to make tailor’s tacks or how to use dressmakers’ tracing paper. Use the lightest-colored paper that will show on your cloth. Page 13 tells you more about guide lines.

Check your machine

Before you start to sew, check the machine stitch. Your seams will not hold if the stitch is not perfect. Try your machine stitch on a double piece of cloth. Stitch on the bias and the straight. Does the stitch look the same on both sides? If not, have your leader adjust the tension while you watch to see how she does it.

For a review of what you learned about the sewing machine in your other projects, practice sewing on a sample of your fabric until you get the feel of the machine. When you can run the machine smoothly, make one of the following articles for practice—scarf, draw-string bag, apron, or swimming robe.

Cloth guide

A cloth guide on your machine will aid in making the stitching straight. Place a strip of colored scotch tape on the machine ⅝ inch, or the width desired, from the needle if a gauge is not available. Keep the edge of the cloth along the inside of the tape or guide as you sew. Watch the edge of the tape not the machine needle.

The pressure foot is a good gauge for edge stitching. It is easy to stitch close to the edge of a hem if you let the edge of the cloth follow the inside of the presser foot. A ⅛ inch seam can be made by letting the edge follow the outside of the presser foot.

Practice on an easy-to-make article

Draw-string bag

You may make a draw-string bag to review what you learned last year. This may be any size. It can be used for your sewing, swimming suit, as a hand bag, or for many other purposes.

Materials needed

_Fabric_: Percale, sail cloth, denim, terry cloth, or towel. If you use a towel, select one approximately 14 x 23 or 18 x 28.

_Lining_: Plastic bag.

_Cording_: Cotton or nylon cording.

Make your bag

First decide how long and how wide you would like to have your bag. Make it just large enough for the purpose you plan to use it for. Don’t make it too large.

Follow these suggestions

1. Pull threads to straighten material and cut on these lines.

2. Cut two pieces of cloth for the bag, the size you want your bag to be. If you have enough cloth, you may cut one piece twice as long and eliminate the bottom seam. When a towel is used, remove the hems at both ends.

3. Place the two pieces with right sides together or fold through the center if one piece is used.

4. Pin or baste sides leaving the top open.

5. Measure from the top or open end of the bag ½-inch and mark with chalk.

6. Take another measurement from the top, this one 4 inches down and mark.

7. Stitch a ½-inch seam from top to first mark, and fasten or back tack thread. Stitch below second markings. Leave the space between markings open on both sides of bag.

8. Make a ¼-inch slash in the seam at lower markings and finish openings with ½-inch hems.

9. Make a 2-inch hem at top. Stitch through the center of the hem to make a 1-inch wide casing and heading. If you are making a swimming bag, why not line it with plastic. Either use a sheet or plastic bag. Make it the same size as your bag.

At this point place the plastic under the hem. Pin or baste into position. Turn right side out. Stitch hem. Use long stitches 6 or 8 to an inch when sewing plastic. Small stitches will cut it.

10. Make or buy the cords for your bag. Make two cords ¾ inch wide finished, 1 yard each in length. (See apron sashes—Phase 2.) You may buy cotton or nylon cord. For a small bag use size 100; use size 150 for a large bag.

11. Run cords through casing. Start each cord at opposite ends. Sew ends of cord together or tie a knot.

12. Box the bottom of the bag. Fold from corner so that side and bottom seams are together. Mark and stitch across triangle.

Swimming robe

TIE or BUTTONS AND LOOP ELASTIC or DRAW STRING

Swimming is now a popular sport in Oregon so you may want to make a swimming robe.

You may make one like the one pictured or select an easy-to-make pattern from your favorite pattern book. Or, adapt an overblouse pattern. Just cut it long enough to cover your swim suit.

Here is an easy one to make. It is mostly hems.

_Fabric_: Approximately 1⅔ yards of terry cloth, sail cloth, percale, denim, or other absorbent cotton.

How to cut

1. Fold fabric in half lengthwise.

2. Measure in from cut end 17 inches and mark.

FRONT BACK Fold SELVAGE