Part 1

IN WILDEST AFRICA

IN WILDEST AFRICA

BY C. G. SCHILLINGS AUTHOR OF “WITH FLASHLIGHT AND RIFLE IN EQUATORIAL EAST AFRICA”

TRANSLATED BY FREDERIC WHYTE

WITH OVER 300 PHOTOGRAPHIC STUDIES DIRECT FROM THE AUTHOR’S NEGATIVES, TAKEN BY DAY AND NIGHT; AND OTHER ILLUSTRATIONS

VOL. I

LONDON HUTCHINSON & CO. PATERNOSTER ROW 1907

Preface

I never dreamed that my book _With Flashlight and Rifle_--alike in its German and its English and American editions--would receive everywhere so kind a welcome, or that it would make for me so many new friends, both at home and abroad.

I have been encouraged by this success to give a fresh series of my studies of African wild life and of my “Nature Documents,” as Dr. Ludwig Heck has designated my photographs, in the present work.

I should like to express my gratitude once again to all those who, in one way or another, have furthered my labours in connection with these two books, especially to Dr. Heck himself and the other men of eminence and learning whose names I mentioned in my preface to _With Flashlight and Rifle_. A complete list of all my kind helpers and well-wishers would be too long to print here. I am deeply indebted, too, to the many correspondents--men of note and young schoolboys alike--who have written to me to express their appreciation of my achievements. Their praises have gone to my heart. I owe a special word of thanks to President Roosevelt, who smoothed the way for my book in the United States by his reference to me in his own volume _Outdoor Pastimes of an American Hunter_. I take the more pleasure in discharging this debt in that I had long derived intense enjoyment from President Roosevelt’s masterly descriptions of wild life and sport in America. President Roosevelt has always been one of the foremost pioneers in the movement for the preservation of nature in all its forms, and has made every possible use of the resources placed at his disposal by his high position to further this end.

This new book of mine is in form a series of impressions and sketches, loosely strung together; but it will serve, I hope, indirectly to win over my readers to the one underlying idea--the idea upon which I harp so often--of the importance of taking active steps to prevent the complete extermination of wild life.

Like _With Flashlight and Rifle_, this supplementary work can claim to stand out from the ranks of all other volumes of the kind as regards the character of its illustrations. All those photographs which I have taken myself are reproduced from the original negatives without retouching of any kind. Every single one, therefore, is an absolutely trustworthy record of a scene visible at a given hour upon the African velt by day or by night. I insist upon this point because herein lie both the value and the fascination of my pictures.

In his introduction to the English edition of _With Flashlight and Rifle_ Sir Harry Johnston declares that that work was “bound to produce nostalgia in the lines of returned veterans”; I trust that _In Wildest Africa_ will bring also to such readers a breath from the wilderness awaking in them memories of exciting experiences on the velt. Above all, I trust that its appeal will be not to grown readers alone, but that it will have still stronger attractions for the coming generation.

A preface should not be too long. I shall conclude with the expression of the hope that I may be able presently to secure a new collection of “Nature Documents.”

C. G. SCHILLINGS.

Contents of Vol. I

CHAP. PAGE

I. THE SPELL OF THE ELELESCHO 1

II. FROM THE CAVE-DWELLER’S SKETCH TO THE FLASHLIGHT PHOTOGRAPH 88

III. NEW LIGHT ON THE TRAGEDY OF CIVILISATION 107

IV. THE SURVIVORS 139

V. SPORT AND NATURE IN GERMANY 179

VI. THE LONELY WONDER-WORLD OF THE NYÍKA 204

VII. THE VOICES OF THE WILDERNESS 283

List of Illustrations in Vol. I

PAGE

_Frontispiece_--Portrait of the Author.

Lion Study v

Young Dwarf Antelope vii

Armed Natives ix

Black-hoofed Antelopes xi

Gulls xiii

A Giraffe Photograph 1

My “Boys” organising a “Goma” 2

Bearers indulging in a Bath 3

A Masai _ol’ moruan_ (old man) 4

Group of Masai 5

A _memento mori_ of the Velt 9

Dwarf Gazelles on the Velt 11

Masai Herdsmen 13

Young Masai Dancing and Singing 17

Bearers on the March 21

Transport Bearers in Difficulties 21

The Author being Carried across a Swamp 23

How Mules and Asses are got across a River 24

Two of my Wandorobo Guides _facing_ 24

A Halt of my Caravan on the Velt 25

Masai Warriors 29

Group of Masai 33

A Party of my trusty Companions 37

Bearers making their way through high grass 41

The Caravan on the March 45

A Herd of Zebras taking Refuge from the Heat of the Midday Sun _facing_ 48

Flamingoes on the margin of a Lake 49

Flamingoes flying down to the Lake margin 53

Alfred Kaiser in Arab costume 55

Group of Gnus 58

Nile Geese on the Natron Lake 58

A Herd of Grant’s Gazelles 59

Crested Cranes and Zebras 59

A Camp on the Velt 63

Native Settlement on the Pangani River 67

Group of Eland Antelopes 72

A Herd of White-bearded Gnus 73

A Masai Dance 77

A Herd of White-bearded Gnus (i) at close quarters; (ii) a more distant view; (iii) they show their disquiet; (iv) they decide to retreat _facing_ 80

Effects of Heat and Mirage 81

A Hot Day in the Great Rift Valley 85

Group of Masai 87

Prehistoric Sketch on a Fragment of Ivory 88

Old Picture of a female Hippopotamus 91

An old German Picture of the Giraffe 93

Hottentot Hunters: a sketch of two hundred years ago 95

Ancient Egyptian representations of Giraffes and other animals 97

Sketches of Animals made by the Bushmen 99

Black-tailed Antelopes running through high grass 101

Bearers on the March 103

A Rhinoceros moving through velt grass 107

Three large Gorillas shot by Captain Dominick 115

Troop of Lions in broad daylight 121

Herd of Elephants in South Africa, by Harris 127

Group of Wild Animals at Hagenbeck’s zoological gardens 133

Young Grant’s Gazelles 139

’Mbega Monkeys 140

A ’Mbega _facing_ 142

East African Wild Buffaloes 143

Modern Methods of Taxidermy: Setting up a Giraffe 146-149

Male Giraffe Gazelle 150

Dwarf Antelope 152

Giraffe Gazelles 152

Snow-white Black-hoofed Antelope 153

New Species of Hyena (_Hyena schillingsi_) 153

Dwarf Musk Deer 158

A Pair of Guerezas 159

Black-hoofed Antelope 164

Giraffe Gazelle and Dwarf Antelope 165

Head of an African Wart-hog 168

Nest of Ostrich’s Eggs 169

Drying Ornithological specimens 174

Group of Author’s Trophies 175

Women of the Rahe Oasis 177

Egyptian Geese in a Swamp 179

The Nyíka: a Bird’s-eye View _facing_ 200

Oryx Antelopes 204

A Velt Hillock 205

The Summit of Mount ’Ngaptuk 207

A Look-out Place 211

Black-hoofed Antelopes 216, 217

Black-tailed Antelopes 222, 223

Masai Hartebeests 230

Giraffe Gazelle 231

Grant’s Gazelles _facing_ 234

Grant’s Gazelles 237

White-bearded Gnus and Zebras taking Refuge from the Midday Sun _facing_ 240

An old Acacia 244

A typical Landscape 245

Hungry Vultures 249

Flamingoes in Flight 252, 253

Storks on the Wing 258

Storks gathering for Migration 259

Remains of Rhinoceroses 261

Crested Cranes in Flight 264

Vultures and Marabous 265

Herd of Waterbuck 270

Oryx Antelopes 271

Grant’s Gazelles 276

Hartebeests near the Western ’Ndjiri Swamps 277

Map of a Day’s Movements and Observations 279

Flamingoes on the Margin of the Natron Lake 281

A Francolin perched on a Thorn-bush 283

Flight of Sandfowl 287

Zebras and Gnus _facing_ 292

An Alarum-turaco 295

Nest of Weaver-birds 301

A Shrike on the Look-out 309

Brook with an Underground Channel 315

I

The Spell of the Elelescho

On the afternoon of January 14, 1897, a small caravan of native bearers, some fifty strong, was wearily making its way across the wide plain towards its long-wished-for goal, Lake Nakuro, which was at last coming, into sight in the far distance. The appearance of the bearers and their worn-out clothing showed plainly that the caravan had made a long journey. And so it was. Weakened by fever, I was coming from the Victoria Nyanza in the hope of making a quicker recovery in this more elevated district. As is the way when one is convalescent, life seemed to me something doubly beautiful and desirable now that, after lying seriously ill for weeks, I was recovering from the fever. I had been all but despaired of by the English officers who had kindly taken care of me, Mr. C. W. Hobley and Mr. Tompkins, to whom I owe a debt of gratitude. I had caught the disease in the marshes of the Nyanza and in my tramp through the wild Sotik and Nandi country, then unexplored or very little known. During the last few days our march had once more been imperilled by hostile tribes, the rebel Wakamassia, but this danger was all but past now that we were entering the uninhabited region of the Nakuro, Elmenteita and Naiwasha Lakes, in the district known to the Masai as En’aiposha.

Endless undulating, expanses of grassy country, unadorned by a single tree, had made our last days of marching not too pleasant. Now there was a marked downward incline of the grass-covered plateau; it gradually changed to a barren plain of volcanic origin, and the view extended over the wide glittering lake.

Filling a far-stretching hollow, and lost to view on the horizon, it lay at our feet, a welcome sight.

The camp was pitched beside a parched-looking ’msuaki tree on the banks of a brook which at this time of the year was a turbid torrent pouring itself down towards the lake. Some time before, bush and grass fires had raged in the neighbourhood and destroyed the old grass, and here, it would seem, a heavy rainfall had conjured forth for us a new carpet of grass that was fresh and luxuriant. The remarkable luxuriance of the grass lands in the district had already been specially noticed, and compared to the richest pastures of the Swiss Alps, by the discoverer of, and first traveller in, this region, Dr. G. A. Fischer, an explorer who, alas! so soon fell a victim to the climate.

Fischer--in 1883--was the first to visit the neighbouring Lake Naiwasha. How the situation has changed since then! At that time, and thus only twelve years before I first camped there, the warlike Masai still held these wide uplands as absolute masters.

Oscar Baumann, an explorer who did good service, was one of the first to traverse their inhospitable dominions. It was some years after Fischer’s journey that Baumann made his way into the region of the Nile sources, during his famous expedition to legend-haunted Ruanda (now better known to us through Dr. Richard Kandt’s researches). I made his acquaintance at the Austrian Consulate at Zanzibar. He, also, was snatched away in his early years by the Sphinx of Africa, the treacherous climate.

His journey, only a few years before my stay here, cost his numerous and strongly armed caravan hard fighting with the natives. And now I am camping here with a few men in an unfortified camp!

Fischer was quite convinced that he could not venture upon his exploring journey without the support of the Mohammedan trading caravans, but he had finally to start alone with 230 bearers. Yet, notwithstanding all difficulties, he successfully accomplished his task. But how different from those of to-day were the circumstances under which a journey was made into unknown Masailand at that time! The Masai warrior was then still sovereign master in his own land; he was still “Ol open l en gob” (“Lord of the land”) in the full sense of the word. And all the chivalrous poetry that has been so pathetically brought home to us by the fate of the North American Indians, was also not alien to his warlike character. Then came the moment when he had to face the firearms of the Europeans. His fate was sealed, like that of the lion and the leopard.

Then, too, tribute had to be arranged for on all sides. Not only some of the petty chiefs in the neighbourhood of the coast, but the Masai too, must receive costly payments. Thus, for example, Dr. Fischer had to hand over to the chief Sedenga at ‘Mkaramo on the Pagani River, to obtain permission for the passage of his caravan, 100 pieces of cloth, each six yards long, an axe, 100 leaden bullets, one ten-pound keg of gunpowder, two large coils of brass wire, and eight pounds’ weight of artificial pearls!

Only two kinds of caravans were known to the Masai, slave caravans and trading caravans, which busied themselves with collecting the coveted ivory tusks. The Arab traders knew how to combine the two objects: the slaves, the “black ivory” of the trade, were forced to carry the white ivory down to the coast.

The strength of these trading caravans, well equipped with firearms, always amounted to several hundred men; but under certain circumstances these numbers were considerably increased, so that caravans of a thousand men or even more were not rare. It took Fischer long months to recruit his caravan. The bearers did not like to undertake the dangerous journey with the first white man who started for that region. The jealousy of the Arab traders was also at work. They feared that the channels of the ivory traffic, which they carefully kept secret, might be revealed.

The German explorer carried through his expedition under the greatest difficulties. He returned home only to succumb soon after to the extraordinary hardships he had endured.

Fischer’s researches were of special importance in connection with the ornithology of Masailand.[1] His journey gave to science some thirty-six hitherto unknown species of birds. Such a result must indeed command our respect, when we consider the difficulties with which the traveller had to contend, and especially when we remember that his available resources were comparatively trifling, beside, for instance, the abundant help that was at the disposal of the English explorers of the same period. The Geographical Society of Hamburg rendered him the service of making the execution of his plans possible, and for the same object Fischer expended all the money he had earned in the active practice of his profession as a doctor on the island of Zanzibar. He saw the activity he had devoted to the service of scientific ideals richly rewarded by the results he obtained. And then he had soon to succumb to the treacherous climate. But if his life was cut short, how quickly the power of the Masai warriors was broken, the very power that had so harassed him, and made his journey so difficult and dangerous. That terrible scourge, the cattle plague, probably introduced from India, suddenly destroyed the greater part of the herds of the Masai, and at the same time blotted out vast numbers of the Masai themselves from the list of the living.

* * * * *

The fates of these pastoral people and of their property (the countless herds of cattle) were so closely bound together, and these warlike herdsmen had become so dependent on their droves of cattle, that once these were ruined they could not survive, but died in a few days of famine.

In the lapse of little more than a year the cattle plague and the Black Death had swept over the Masai uplands. Hungry vultures hovered over scenes of horror. The herds of cattle fell under the strange pestilence. Agonised by slow starvation, the herdsmen followed them to death. I have often found lying together, in one narrow space, the countless white bleached bones of the cattle and the skull of their former owner. It would be an old camping-ground, with its fence of thorns (zereba) long rotted away, and it was now a strangely impressive Golgotha. These heaps of bones, still to be seen in 1897, were soon after dissolved in dust and scattered by the winds.

Where are the Masai of those days?

Suddenly they stand boldly before me, as if they had sprung up out of the ground! It is no illusion. But why do my bearers show no fear? Why does no uproar break out in the camp?

It is plain enough that no one troubles himself about the appearance of these figures, for they come, not threatening and demanding tribute, but conscious of the overpowering might of the European. True, a few months ago, not so far from my camp, their warriors surprised and destroyed a caravan of nearly a thousand coast folk. But, generally speaking, they do not care to have to reckon with the superior weapons of Europe. They even accept some food from me. And in this matter they are not so dainty as they used to be in former times, when the warriors--obedient to strict dietary laws--lived only on the meat and milk of their herds. Of course, here we have to deal with only a small number of them. Yonder, on the wild uplands, there still live a not inconsiderable number of Masai, who having saved their herds, or got them together again, keep as far away as may be from the Europeans and their uncanny weapons.

The Masai warriors, with their wives, children, and herds, seem to me to be fit accessories for this desert landscape. In the evening, dances amuse us till late in the night, and many a wordy skirmish breaks out as some of my bearers who, thanks to former journeys, have some knowledge of the Masai tongue, gossip with these nomads of the wilderness. The coast folk think themselves high as the heavens above the “savage” Masai. The Masai warriors, in return, despise the burden-bearing coast folk, count them as “barbarians,” and scornfully call them “il’meek.”

But the times have changed, and so it comes to pass that my people too join in the dance, which lasts late into the night: that songs of the warriors and the women--“‘Singolioitin loo-‘l-muran” and “Loo-‘ngoroyok”--ring out through the darkness, the chorus finding a manifold echo with its oft-repeated “Ho! He! Ho! Na! He! Hoo!” It is a “Leather Stocking” kind of poetry, and indeed the redskins of the New World and the Masai here in Dark Africa seem to me alike. The former had to yield to civilisation, the same fate awaits the latter.