Part 1

Transcriber's Note:

Every effort has been made to replicate this text as faithfully as possible, including inconsistent hyphenation. Some changes have been made. They are listed at the end of the text.

Illustrations and maps have been moved.

Italic text has been marked with _underscores_.

IN UNFAMILIAR ENGLAND

_By the Same Author_

British Highways and Byways From a Motor Car

WITH FORTY-EIGHT ILLUSTRATIONS Sixteen Reproductions in Color and Thirty-Two Duogravures

_Second Edition_

320 Pages, 8vo, Decorated Cloth, Gilt Top Price (Boxed), $3.00

L. C. PAGE & COMPANY BOSTON, MASS.

IN UNFAMILIAR ENGLAND

A Record of a Seven Thousand Mile Tour by Motor of the Unfrequented Nooks and Corners, and the Shrines of Especial Interest, in England; With Incursions into Scotland and Ireland.

By THOS. D. MURPHY

AUTHOR OF "BRITISH HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS FROM A MOTOR CAR."

WITH SIXTEEN ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOR, REPRODUCED FROM ORIGINAL PAINTINGS BY EMINENT BRITISH ARTISTS, AND FORTY-EIGHT DUOGRAVURES FROM ENGLISH PHOTOGRAPHS; ALSO INDEXED MAPS COVERING ROUTES.

BOSTON L. C. PAGE & COMPANY MDCCCCX

_Copyright, 1910_ BY L. C. PAGE & COMPANY (INCORPORATED)

_All rights reserved_

First Impression, January, 1910

TO MY WIFE

THE CONSTANT COMPANION OF MY WANDERINGS

PREFACE

It may seem that there is little excuse for a new book on English travel, since works covering the beaten path in the British Isles fairly teem from the press. But as a record of pilgrimages to the unfamiliar shrines and to the odd corners all over the United Kingdom this book may have its value. My reference to the tourist-frequented spots has been only incidental, and I think I can claim to have found much of interest not elsewhere described. And this I put forth as my chief excuse for adding one more to the already long list of British travel books.

But in my illustrations I have another, and perhaps to many a better, excuse for my venture on such well-trodden ground. I believe that few books of travel have come from the press that can justly claim a higher rank in this particular. The sixteen color plates reproduce the work of some of the most noted contemporary artists, and the duogravures are the most perfect English photographs--no country on earth surpasses England in photography--perfectly reproduced.

I trust that these features may give a real value to the book and make it acceptable to the large and increasing number of those readers and travelers abroad who are interested in the Motherland.

T. D. M.

CONTENTS

Page

I SOME NOOKS ABOUT LONDON 1

II WANDERINGS IN EAST ANGLIA 14

III SOME MIDLAND NOOKS AND THE WASHINGTON COUNTRY 32

IV MEANDERINGS FROM COVENTRY TO EXETER 48

V RAMBLES IN THE WEST COUNTRY 68

VI ODD CORNERS OF THE WELSH BORDER 85

VII A WEEK IN SOUTH WALES 102

VIII SOME NOOKS AND CORNERS 127

IX THE BYRON COUNTRY 143

X FROM YORKSHIRE COAST TO BARNARD CASTLE 160

XI LAKELAND AND THE YORKSHIRE DALES 176

XII SOME NORTH COUNTRY SHRINES 199

XIII ACROSS THE TWEED 212

XIV MORE YORKSHIRE WANDERINGS 238

XV ROUND ABOUT WILTSHIRE 257

XVI DORSET AND THE ISLE OF WIGHT 277

XVII SOUTH ENGLAND NOOKS 298

XVIII FROM DUBLIN TO CORK 325

XIX THROUGH SOUTHERN IRELAND 338

XX SOME ODDS AND ENDS 362

XXI LUDLOW TOWN 379

INDEX 391

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

COLOR PLATES

Page

SULGRAVE MANOR, THE CRADLE OF THE WASHINGTONS Frontispiece

WARWICK CASTLE FROM THE AVON 1

SULGRAVE CHURCH AND VILLAGE 40

IN SUNNY DEVON 70

KING ARTHUR'S CASTLE, OFF TINTAGEL HEAD, CORNWALL 74

OFF THE COAST OF DEVON 76

EVENING ON THE CORNISH COAST 82

A WORCESTERSHIRE COMMON 136

HADDON HALL FROM THE RIVER 146

IN OLD WHITBY 168

A SUSSEX HARVEST FIELD 306

THE HOSPITAL, RYE 312

ON THE DOWNS 322

A GLIMPSE OF THE LOUGH, IRELAND 346

ON THE RIVER LLEDR, WALES 368

LUDLOW CASTLE FROM THE RIVER TEME 386

DUOGRAVURES

OLD MANOR HOUSE, BRENT ELEIGH 20

A STREET CORNER, EARLS COLNE, ESSEX 28

MARNEY TOWERS, ESSEX 30

CROSS ROADS NEAR OUNDLE 34

KIRBY HALL 38

WASHINGTON BRASS, SULGRAVE CHURCH 42

THE WASHINGTON CHURCH, GREAT BRINGTON 46

LYGON ARMS, BROADWAY 54

TAWSTOCK CHURCH, DEVONSHIRE 78

BERKELEY CASTLE 86

BISHOP'S PALACE, HEREFORD 92

TONG VILLAGE, SHROPSHIRE 94

BOSCOBEL HOUSE, SHROPSHIRE 96

CAERPHILLY CASTLE, SOUTH WALES 108

CARDIFF CASTLE 110

NEATH ABBEY, SOUTH WALES 114

ST. DAVID'S CATHEDRAL 120

TOWN CROSS, STOCKS AND WHIPPING POST, RIPPLE 132

RUINS OF CHARTLEY CASTLE, DERBYSHIRE 140

CHESTERFIELD CHURCH 144

NEWSTEAD ABBEY 154

WHITBY ABBEY AND CROSS 166

RABY CASTLE 172

HAWORTH CHURCH 196

CASTLE HOWARD 200

REMAINS OF GREAT ROMAN WALL NEAR HEXHAM 208

NAWORTH CASTLE 210

TANTALLON CASTLE AND BASS ROCK 228

CASTLE BOLTON, WENSLEYDALE, YORKSHIRE 240

MIDDLEHAM CASTLE, WENSLEYDALE 244

RUINS OF PONTEFRACT CASTLE 250

LACOCK ABBEY 262

BROMHAM CHURCH, BURIAL PLACE OF THOMAS MOORE 266

CASTLE COMBE VILLAGE, WILTSHIRE 268

CORFE VILLAGE AND CASTLE 280

AN ISLE OF WIGHT ROAD 288

THE TENNYSON HOME, FRESHWATER, ISLE OF WIGHT 294

COTTAGE, FRESHWATER, ISLE OF WIGHT 296

ABBEY CHURCH, ROMSEY 300

COWDRAY CASTLE, NEAR MIDHURST 304

THE "BLUE IDOL," PENN'S MEETING HOUSE, SUSSEX 308

KILKENNY CASTLE 328

CASHEL CATHEDRAL, TIPPERARY 332

HOLY CROSS ABBEY, TIPPERARY 334

ANCIENT ORATORY, KILLALOE 356

WHITTINGTON CASTLE, SHROPSHIRE 370

LUDLOW CASTLE; THE WALK BENEATH THE WALL 380

DOOR TO ROUND CHAPEL, LUDLOW CASTLE 384

MAPS

MAP OF ENGLAND AND WALES 390

MAP OF SCOTLAND AND IRELAND 402

In Unfamiliar England

I

SOME NOOKS ABOUT LONDON

When Washington Irving made his first journey to England, he declared the three or four weeks on the ocean to be the best possible preparation for a visit to the mother country. The voyage, said he, was as a blank page in one's existence, and the mind, by its utter severance from the busy world, was best fitted to receive impressions of a new and strange environment. And it was no doubt so in the slow ocean voyages of olden time; but today it is more as if one stayed within his palatial hotel for a few days, at no time losing touch with the civilized world. Every day of our passage the engines of our ocean greyhound reeled off distances--five or six hundred nautical miles--that Irving's vessel would have required nearly a week to cover, and daily the condensed news of the world was flashed to us through the "viewless air." Of all our modern miracles, certainly none would have been more difficult to predict than this--how like a sheer impossibility it would have seemed! Indeed, to such an extent has modern science thrown its safeguards around the voyager that "those in peril on the sea" are rather less so than those on land, and the ocean liners make trips month after month and year after year without the loss of a single life. And with the disappearance of its mystery and terror, the sea has lost much of its romance. No longer does the bold buccaneer lie in wait for the treasure-laden galleons of Spain and the Netherlands; no longer may the picturesque pirate sail the seas unhindered in his quest for ill-gotten gold. Indeed, when one thinks of the capital and equipment a modern pirate on the high seas would require, there is no wonder that the good old trade is obsolete.

But the sea is still as beautiful in its thousand moods of clouds and sunshine, of storm and calm, as it ever was ere its distances were annihilated and its romance dispelled. Our voyage was nearly perfect; the water was smooth and the days mild and clear. From sunrise to sunset the great ship plowed her way through a sea of pale emerald flecked with frosted silver, and at night she swept along beneath a starlit sky. So favorable was her progress that early on the sixth day she paused in Plymouth harbor.

If in Washington Irving's day the long sea voyage was the best preparation for enjoying the beauties of England, it is hardly so now. Be that as it may, there is possibly nothing that could make one more keenly appreciate the joys of motoring than the run from Plymouth to London by the Great Western's "train de luxe." The grime and smoke that envelop everything about the train, the crash and shriek of the wheels, the trembling and groaning of the frail carriages hurled onward at a terrific speed, to say nothing of the never-to-be-forgotten service--does it deserve such a term--of the dining-car, will all seem like a nightmare when one glides along beneath the silvery English skies, through the untainted country air, and pauses for an excellent, cleanly served luncheon at some well-ordered wayside inn.

London itself is so vast, and so crowded are its environs with places that may well engage the attention of the tourist, that it would be hard to guess how much time one might devote with pleasure and profit to the teeming circle within twenty-five miles of Charing Cross. Many of the most charming spots about the metropolis have had scant mention in the literature of travel, and even now many of the ancient and picturesque villages are in process of metamorphosis. The steady encroachments of the great city have already transformed more than one retired hamlet into a suburban residence town, and historic landmarks have suffered not a little. The advent of the railroad, always hailed with joy from a mere material standpoint, is often death to the atmosphere that attracts the painter and the poet. A run to Chorley Wood to visit the studio of a well-known English artist, one of whose pictures graces this book, brought to our minds with peculiar force the condition of things just outlined.

Chorley Wood but recently was one of the quaintest and most unspoiled of the Hertfordshire villages. Here stands the old King farmhouse where in 1672 William Penn married Gulilema Springett, whose graces and perfections have been so dwelt upon by the chroniclers. And there are other old and interesting structures, but crowding them closely and elbowing them out of existence are the more modern villas of Londoners whom the railroad has brought within easy reach of this pleasant spot. Not all of the newer houses were constructed with the consummate taste of that of our artist friend, whose studio-residence seemed entirely at home among the quaint old houses of the town. As usual with English houses, the garden side was most attractive, and a wide veranda--not a common thing in England--fronted on the well-kept lawn. From this there was a splendid view of the distant Hertfordshire landscape, which on this particular June day was glorious with such variations of green as can be seen only in England, broken here and there by the intense yellow of the gorse and fading away into a blue haze that half hid the forest-covered hills in the distance. I could not help suggesting that this view itself would make a delightful picture, but the artist, who is noted for his fondness for low tones, demurred--the gorse was too harsh and jarring. So, after all, Dame Nature isn't much of a colorist! She mingles the intensest greens and blues and dashes them with the fiercest of yellows!

It is not strange that Hertfordshire is favored by the artists, especially those whose success has been such as to enable them to maintain country homes. I had the pleasure of calling on another successful young painter in the adjacent village of Harpenden and on inquiring for his studio we were given the unique direction to "follow the road along the common until you come to a new house that looks like an old one." And the description was apt, indeed, for we did not see elsewhere the half-timber frame-work with herring-bone masonry, the studded oak doors with monstrous, straggling wrought-iron hinges, the open beams, wide carved mantels, the mullioned windows with diamond panes set in iron casements--all reproduced with the perfect spirit of the Elizabethan builder.

Near by is Rickmansworth, an ancient and yet unspoiled town where Penn lived for five years after his marriage with "Guli," as she was called. These years were largely occupied in writing theological works and in public religious disputations. In fact, no name is more identified with Hertfordshire than Penn's, its only rival being that of Francis Bacon. In later years Penn removed to Sussex, where he had inherited an estate, but his final resting-place is at Jordans, Hertfordshire.

We left Chorley Wood through meandering byways, and threading our way among the Burnham beeches, soon came into the main Oxford road. It would be difficult, indeed, to describe the sylvan loveliness of the country through which we passed. The great trees overarched the narrow winding lanes, which were bordered with tall ferns in places, and often a clear rivulet ran alongside. The somber yew, the stately oak and the graceful birches were interspersed here with a bit of lawn and there with a tangle of flowering shrubs. Out of this we came into the main road, broad and white, and teeming with vehicles--the first hint that London with its ceaseless turmoil is only twenty miles away.

Farther on the road toward the city we came to Uxbridge, another town where the new is crowding the old. Fortunately, the famous Treaty Inn has escaped. Here the emissaries of Charles I. met the representatives of Parliament in a vain effort to compromise the dispute that had plunged the nation into civil war. The room where the commissioners met, with its paneling reaching to the ceiling and its wealth of antique carving, is little changed, though it has been divided by a partition into a writing- and a dining-room. The excellent luncheon served was one of the surprises often met in these dilapidated and often unprepossessing old hostelries. In the time of the Parliamentary unpleasantness, this hotel was known as the "Crown," and among its relics is an immense crown of solid oak weighing two or three hundred pounds, which was engaging the attention of an English party, one of whom ironically asked if this were the identical crown worn by Charles at the council. "Indeed it was," replied another humorist in the party, "and thus originated the expression, 'Uneasy lies the head which wears a crown.'"

Near Uxbridge, but lying a quarter of a mile off the main road, is the village of Denham. Here we came one fine Sunday afternoon, following the recommendation of an English friend. The village has no historic attraction and no famous man's name has ever been associated with it. Neither has it mention in the books. Yet Denham is a delight--a sequestered little place nestling under a group of towering trees just far enough from the highroad to miss the dust and noise. The ancient half-timbered houses which border the street are redolent with the spirit of old-time England. The fine unrestored old church stands at the head of the street and the churchyard about it shows evidence of painstaking care. What a delight, it seemed to us, it would be to live in Denham--at least in English June time. One would have rural quiet, even somnolence, and might lie for hours on the turf under the great trees, meditating and looking at the sky; and if he should weary of so secluded and eventless a life, London, with all its mystery and charm, is less than an hour away--London, the most fascinating city in the world, despite its preponderance of bad weather and its world-famed fogs.

Charles Lamb delighted in Hertfordshire and spent much of his time at the Four Swans Inn at Waltham, a quaint old building just opposite Waltham Cross. We made several pilgrimages here; nor did the abbey grow less interesting upon repeated visits. From here it is only a little distance to St. Albans, a city proud of its great cathedral, whose hoary tower dominates the town. Quite different from the ordinary caretaker was the young clergyman, whose refined, classic face bespoke his intelligence and who showed us every detail of the great church, dwelling upon its many ancient and often unique features. Nor did he omit to call our attention to an epitaph of a very frank citizen of St. Albans, who, after sleeping three hundred years under the marble slab in the nave, still complains of his unhappy fate:

"Great was my grief--I could not rest; God called me hence--He thought it best. Unhappy marriage was my fate-- I did repent when 'twas too late."

St. Albans is rich in antiquities. Indeed, you can still trace fragments of the Roman wall which surrounded the place when Albanus met his fate, and down near the river at the foot of cathedral hill is another "oldest house" in England. It is a quaint round structure, built, they say, more than a thousand years ago as a fishing-lodge for the monks, for it stands hard by a lakelike dam in the river. But today it has degenerated into a public house, and the broad-shouldered, black-bearded Irishman who kept the bar was well posted on St. Albans' antiquities. He showed us the little house and garden and pointed out the Roman earthworks. Nor did he seem in the least disappointed that our patronage was limited to a few post card pictures, and, strange to say, he declined a gratuity. We returned to the George Inn, which enjoyed great prosperity in the coaching days, being on the main road to Holyhead. For four hundred years it had cheered the passing guest and its excellent dinner belied its generally dilapidated appearance. Its proprietors were just removing to the new and pretentious Red Lion over the way, but we did not learn whether this meant the final abandonment of the George.

It was with some difficulty that we located Rye House, which we supposed to be within Broxborne, but which really lies on a byroad two or three miles away. Though in a more or less secluded location, it is apparently the goal of innumerable pilgrims on gala days in the summer, especially Sundays. On the day of our arrival, the grounds were quite deserted and an appropriate quietude hovered over the old manor. Alas, though, we found it shorn of much of its picturesqueness, for it had fallen into the clutches of a large brewer, who was using it as an adjunct to dispose of his product--in fact, the mansion and its beautiful grounds have become little else than a summer beer garden.

Rye House figures in history as the seat of a plot, which contemporaries describe as "horrid," to kill King Charles II. as he returned from a race meeting in Newmarket in 1683. Unfortunately, perhaps, the plot failed, owing to the king's return a week earlier than expected, and there was no telephone to advise the Rye House assassins of the change of plan. A penny guide-book gives what purports to be the history of the crime, though I fear most of the romantic features are mythical. It relates how Ruth, the daughter of Rumsey, who devised the plot, listened at the door and learned the plan of the conspirators. Between her father and the king this devoted maiden never hesitated a minute, but hustled her lover away to Newmarket to warn Charles of his impending danger. After great difficulty the youth gained an audience with the king, and it is recorded that Charles only laughed at his story. Here, at least, is a touch of probability--Charles laughed at everything. Finding himself discredited, the lover became desperate; in his loyal zeal "he secretly set fire to the house in which the king resided in two or three places." Our chronicler, having thus unceremoniously ousted his royal majesty from his comfortable quarters, has him proceed "in disguise" to London, stopping at Rye House, where he confronted and confounded his enemies and bestowed "substantial marks of his favor" upon Ruth Rumsey and her lover. What these substantial marks were our chronicler declareth not--better left to the imagination, anyway, for it would be far more in keeping with the character of Charles to say that he promised substantial marks of his favor and forgot all about it.