Part 1

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IN THE TRACK OF R. L. STEVENSON AND ELSEWHERE IN OLD FRANCE

All rights reserved

IN THE TRACK OF R. L. STEVENSON AND ELSEWHERE IN OLD FRANCE

by

J. A. HAMMERTON

Author of "Stevensoniana"

With 92 Illustrations

Bristol J. W. Arrowsmith, 11 Quay Street

London Simpkin, Marshall, Hamilton, Kent & Company Limited

First published in 1907

CONTENTS

_Page_

THROUGH THE CEVENNES 1

ALONG THE ROUTE OF "AN INLAND VOYAGE" 71

"THE MOST PICTURESQUE TOWN IN EUROPE" 121

THE COUNTRY OF THE CAMISARDS 137

THE WONDERLAND OF FRANCE 155

THE TOWN OF "TARTARIN" 173

"LA FÊTE DIEU" 195

"M'SIEU MEELIN OF DUNDAE" 207

ROUND ABOUT A FRENCH FAIR 219

THE PALACE OF THE ANGELS 237

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

THE SCHELDT AT ANTWERP _Frontispiece_

_Face Page_

LE MONASTIER 1

LE MONASTIER 4

CHÂTEAU NEUF, NEAR LE MONASTIER 8

GOUDET 8

CHÂTEAU BEAUFORT AT GOUDET 13

SPIRE OF OUR LADY OF PRADELLES 13

THE INN AT GOUDET 16

OLD BRIDGE AT LANGOGNE 20

THE LOIRE NEAR GOUDET 20

VILLAGE AND CASTLE OF LUC 24

LA BASTIDE 24

ROAD TO OUR LADY OF THE SNOWS 29

THE MONASTERY 29

OUR LADY OF THE SNOWS 33

MAIN STREET, LE BLEYMARD 36

RUINS OF THE HÔTEL DU LOT 36

ON THE LOZÈRE 40

ON THE LOZÈRE 45

VILLAGE OF COCURÈS 48

BRIDGE OVER THE TARN 48

WATERFALL ON THE LOZÈRE 53

IN THE VALLEY OF THE TARN 53

"CLARISSE" 56

THE TARN VALLEY AT LA VERNÈDE 60

IN THE VALLEY OF THE TARN 65

NEAR FLORAC 65

FLORAC 68

BOOM ON THE RUPEL 72

VILLEVORDE ON THE WILLEBROEK CANAL 72

THE ALLÉE VERTE AT LAEKEN 77

THE SAMBRE AT MAUBEUGE 77

THE GRAND CERF, MAUBEUGE 80

THE CHURCH AT QUARTES 84

THE SAMBRE FROM THE BRIDGE AT PONT 84

ON THE SAMBRE AT QUARTES 88

SCENE AT PONT-SUR-SAMBRE 88

THE SAMBRE CANAL AT LANDRECIES 93

THE FOREST OF MORMAL FROM THE SAMBRE 93

THE INN AT MOY 97

THE VILLAGE STREET, MOY 97

VEUVE BAZIN 100

THE BAZINS' INN AT LA FÈRE 100

THE TOWN HALL NOYON 104

HÔTEL DU NORD, NOYON 104

NOYON CATHEDRAL FROM THE EAST 109

NOYON CATHEDRAL: WEST FRONT 112

COMPIÈGNE TOWN HALL 116

THE OISE AT PONTOISE 120

GENERAL VIEW OF LE PUY 121

LE PUY: CATHEDRAL AND ROCHER DE CORNEILLE FROM PLACE DU BREUIL 125

LACEMAKERS AT LE PUY 128

MARKET DAY AT LE PUY, SHOWING TYPES OF THE AUVERNGATS 129

LE PUY 132

THE CHURCH OF ST. MICHAEL, LE PUY 136

HOUSE OF DU CHAYLA, AT PONT DE MONTVERT 137

TWO VIEWS IN THE VILLAGE OF LA CAVALERIE 141

LA CAVALERIE, WITHIN THE CAMISARD WALL 144

ST. VERNAN, IN THE VALLEY OF THE DOURBIE 145

THE WAY OVER THE LARZAC 148

MILLAU, WITH VIEW OF THE CAUSSE NOIR 152

ON THE CAUSSE DU LARZAC 152

ON THE TARN 157

A ROCKY DEFILE ON THE TARN 160

IN THE GORGE OF THE TARN 161

THE CHÂTEAU DE LA CAZE ON THE TARN 164

PEYRELAU, IN THE VALLEY OF THE JONTE 169

BEAUCAIRE: SHOWING CASTLE AND BRIDGE ACROSS THE RHONE TO TARASCON 173

TARASCON: THE PUBLIC MARKET 176

THE TARASQUE 177

THE CASTLE OF TARASCON 177

TARASCON: THE MAIRIE 180

A WOMAN OF TARASCON 184

TARASCON: "THE BIT OF A SQUARE" 189

TARASCON: THE PROCESSION OF THE TARASQUE 193

PROCESSION OF LA FÊTE DIEU 196

A WOMAN OF SAINTE ENIMIE 205

THE FAMOUS DRUIDICAL REMAINS AT CARNAC 208

THE MERCHANTS' TABLE 213

WOMEN OF THE CEVENNES 220

GENERAL VIEW OF MONT ST. MICHEL 244

MONT ST. MICHEL 253

Note

The travel-sketches that go to the making of this little book have appeared, in part only, in certain literary magazines, here and in America; but the greater part of the work is now printed for the first time.

Perhaps the author should anticipate a criticism that might arise from the sequence of the first two papers. Had he gone to work on a set plan, he would naturally have undertaken his pilgrimage along the route of _An Inland Voyage_ before visiting the scenes of _Travels with a Donkey_, as the one book preceded the other in order of publication, _An Inland Voyage_, which appeared originally in 1878, being properly Stevenson's first book. _Travels with a Donkey_ was published in 1879. But he has preferred to give precedence to "Through the Cevennes," as it was the first of his Stevenson travel-sketches to be written. Moreover, these little journeys were as much, indeed more affairs of personal pleasure than of copy-hunting, and when the author went forth on them he had no intention of making a book about his experiences--at least, not one deriving its chief interest from association with the memory of R. L. S. He has been counselled, however, to bring together these chapters and their accompanying photographs in this form, on the plea that the interest in Stevenson's French travels is still so considerable that any straightforward account of later journeys over the same ground cannot fail to have some attraction for the admirers of that great master of English prose.

The book is but a very little sheaf from the occasional writings of its author on his wayfarings in old France, where in the last ten years he has travelled many thousands of miles by road and rail between Maubeuge and Marseilles, from Belfort to Bordeaux, and always with undiminished interest among a people who are eminently lovable and amid scenes of infinite variety and charm.

Through the Cevennes

I.

Someone has accounted for the charm of story-telling by the suggestion that the natural man imagines himself the hero of the tale he is reading, and squares this action or that with what he would suspect himself of doing in similar circumstances. The romancer who can best beguile his reader into this conceit of mind is likely to be the most popular. It seems to me that with books of travel this mental make-believe must also take place if the reader is to derive the full measure of entertainment from the narrative. With myself, at all events, it is so, and Hazlitt may be authority of sufficient weight to justify the thought that my own experience is not likely to be singular. To me the chief charm in reading a book of travel is this fanciful assumption of the rôle of the traveller; and so far does it condition my reading, that my readiest appetite is for a story of wayfaring in some quarter of the world where I may hope, not unreasonably, to look upon the scenes that have first engaged my mind's eye. Thus the adventures of a Mr. Savage Landor in Thibet, or a Sir Henry Stanley in innermost Africa, have less attraction for me than the narrative of a journey such as Elihu Burritt undertook in his famous walk from London to John o' Groats, or R. L. Stevenson's _Travels with a Donkey in the Cevennes_. I will grant you that the delicious literary style of Stevenson's book is its potent charm, but I am persuaded that others than myself have had their pleasure in the reading of it sensibly increased by the thought that some day they might witness Nature's originals of the landscapes which the master painter has depicted so deftly. It had long been a dream of mine to track his path through that romantic region of old France; not in the impudently emulative spirit of the throaty tenor who, hearing Mr. Edward Lloyd sing a new song, hastens to the music-seller's, resolved to practise it for his next "musical evening;" not, forsooth, to do again badly what had once been done well; but to travel the ground in the true pilgrim spirit of love for him who

"Here passed one day, nor came again-- A prince among the tribes of men."

Well did I know that many of the places with which I was familiar romantically through Stevenson's witchery of words were drab and dull enough in reality: enough for me that here in his pilgrim way that "blithe and rare spirit" had rested for a little while.

II.

The mountainous district of France to which, somewhat loosely, Stevenson applies the name Cevennes, lies along the western confines of Provence, and overlaps on several departments, chief of which are Ardèche, Lozère, Gard, and Herault. In many parts the villages and the people have far less in common with France and the French than Normandy and the Normans have with provincial England. Here in these mountain fastnesses and sheltered valleys the course of life has flowed along almost changeless for centuries, and here, too, we shall find much that is best in the romantic history and natural grandeur of France. Remote from Paris, and happily without the area of the "cheap trip" organisers, it is likely to remain for ever "off the beaten track."

In order to visit the Cevennes proper, the beautiful town of Mende would be the best starting-place. But since my purpose was to strike the trail of R. L. S., after some wanderings awheel northward of Clermont Ferrand, I approached the district from Le Puy, a town which so excellent a judge as Mr. Joseph Pennell has voted the most picturesque in Europe. Besides, Stevenson himself had often wandered through its quaint, unusual streets, while preparing for his memorable journey with immortal Modestine. "I decided on a sleeping sack," he says; "and after repeated visits to Le Puy, and a deal of high living for myself and my advisers, a sleeping sack was designed, constructed, and triumphantly brought home." At that time the wanderer's "home" was in the mountain town of Le Monastier, some fifteen miles south-east of Le Puy, and there in the autumn of 1877 he spent "about a month of fine days," variously occupied in completing his _New Arabian Nights_ and _Picturesque Notes on Edinburgh_, and conducting, with no little personal and general entertainment, the preliminaries of his projected journey through the Cevennes.

III.

Together with a friend I had spent some rainy but memorable days at Le Puy in the summer of 1903, waiting for fair weather to advance on this little highland town, which lies secure away from railways and can only be reached by road. A bright morning in June saw us gliding on our wheels along the excellent _route nationale_ that carries us thither on a long, easy gradient. The town seen at a distance is a mere huddle of grey houses stuck on the side of a bleak, treeless upland, and at close quarters it presents few allurements to the traveller. But it is typical of the mountain villages of France, and rich in the rugged, unspoilt character of its inhabitants. Stevenson tells us that it is "notable for the making of lace, for drunkenness, for freedom of language, and for unparalleled political dissension." As regards the last of these features, the claim to distinction may readily be admitted, but for the rest they apply equally to scores of similar villages of the Cevennes. Certainly it is not notable for the variety or comfort of its hostelries, but I shall not regret our brief sojourn at the Hôtel de Chabrier.

Mine host was a worthy who will always have a corner in my memory. Like his establishment, his person was much the worse for wear. Lame of a leg, his feet shod with the tattered fragments of slippers such as the Scots describe with their untranslatable "bauchle," a pair of unclean heels peeping out through his stockings, he was the living advertisement of his frowsy inn, the ground floor of which, still bearing the legend _Café_, had been turned into a stable for oxen and lay open to the highway, a doubtful shelter for our bicycles. But withal, turning a shut eye to the kitchen as we passed, the cooking was excellent, and M. Chabrier assured us that he was renowned for game patties, which he sent to "all parts of Europe." The frank satisfaction with himself and his hotel he betrayed at every turn would have rejoiced the heart of so shrewd a student of character as R. L. S., and the chances are considerable that in that month of fine days, six-and-twenty years before, Stevenson may have gossiped with my friend of the greasy cap, for M. Chabrier was then, as now, making his guests welcome and baking his inimitable patties.

Did he know Stevenson? "_Oui, oui, oui, M'sieu!_" Stevenson was a writer of books who had spent some time there years ago. "_Oui, oui, parfaitement, M'sieu Stevenzong._" What a memory the man had, and how blithely he recalled the distant past!

"Then, of course, you must have known the noted village character Father Adam, who sold his donkey to this Scottish traveller?"

"_Père Adam--oui, oui, oui--ah, non, non, je ne le connais pas_," thus shuffling when I asked for some further details.

Mine host, who read the duty of an innkeeper to be the humouring of his patrons, could clearly supply me with the most surprising details of him whose footsteps I was tracing; but wishful not to lead him into temptation, I tested his evidence early in our talk by asking how many years had passed since he of whom we spoke had rested at Le Monastier, and whether he had patronised the Hôtel de Chabrier. He sagely scratched his head and racked his memory for a moment, with the result that this Scotsman--oh, he was sure he was a Scotsman--had stayed in that very hotel, and occupied bedroom number three, just four years back!

Obviously he was mistaken--not to put too fine a point upon it--and his cheerful avowal, in discussing another subject, that he was "a partisan of no religion," did not increase my faith in him. There were few Protestants in Le Monastier, he told me; but as I happened to know from my good friend the pasteur at Le Puy that the postmaster here, at least, stood by the reformed faith, and by that token might be supposed a man of some reading, I hoped there to find some knowledge of Stevenson, whose works and travels were familiar to the pasteur. Alas, "_J' n' sais pas_" was the burden of the postmaster's song.

To wander about the evil-smelling by-ways of Le Monastier, and observe the ancient crones busy at almost every door with their lace-making pillows, the bent and grizzled wood-choppers at work in open spaces, is to understand that, despite the lapse of more than a quarter of a century, there must be still alive hundreds of the village folk among whom Stevenson moved. But to find any who could recall him were the most hopeless of tasks; to identify the _auberge_, in the billiard-room of which "at the witching hour of dawn" he concluded the purchase of the donkey and administered brandy to its disconsolate seller, were equally impossible, and it was only left to the pilgrims to visit the market-place where Father Adam and his donkey were first encountered. So with the stink of the church, whose interior seemed to enclose the common sewer of the town, still lingering in our nostrils, we resumed our journey southward across the little river Gazeille, and headed uphill in the direction of St. Martin de Frugères, noting as we mounted on the other side of the valley the straggling lane down which Modestine, loaded with that wonderful sleeping sack and the paraphernalia of the most original of travellers, "tripped along upon her four small hoofs with a sober daintiness of gait" to the ford across the river, giving as yet no hint of the troubles she had in store for "the green donkey driver."

IV.

Along our road were several picturesque patches formed of rock and pine, and notably the romantic ruins of Château Neuf, with the little village clustered at their roots, which furnished subjects for Stevenson's block and pencil. Among his efforts as a limner there has also been published a sketch of his that gives with striking effect the far-reaching panorama of the volcanic mountain masses ranging westward from Le Monastier, a scene of wild and austere aspect. A little beyond Château Neuf we were wheeling on the same road where he urged with sinking heart the unwilling ass, and while still within sight of his starting-place, showing now like a scar on the far hillside, we passed by the filthy village of St. Victor, the neighbourhood where the greenness of the donkey driver was diminished by the advice of a peasant, who advocated thrashing and the use of the magic word "Proot."

The road grew wilder as we advanced towards St. Martin de Frugères, to which village the sentimental traveller came upon a Sabbath, and wrote of the "home feeling" the scene at the church brought over him--a sentiment difficult to appreciate as we wandered the filth-sodden streets and inspected the ugly little church, whitewashed within and stuffed with cheap symbols of a religion that is anathema to descendants of the Covenanters. The silvery Loire far below in the valley to our right, we sat at our ease astride our wiry steeds and sped cheerfully down the winding road to Goudet, feeling that if our mode of progress was less romantic than Stevenson's, it had compensations, for there was nothing that tempted us to tarry on our way.

"Goudet stands in a green end of a valley, with Château Beaufort opposite upon a rocky steep, and the stream, as clear as crystal, lying in a deep pool between them." The scene was indeed one of singular beauty, the fertile fields and shaggy woods being in pleasant contrast to the barren country through which we had been moving. While still a mile away from the place, we foregathered with two peasants trudging uphill to St. Martin. I was glad to talk with them, as I desired to know which of the inns was the oldest. There were three, I was told, and the Café Rivet boasted the greatest age, the others being of recent birth, and none were good, my informant added, supposing that we intended to lodge for the night.

To the inn of M. Rivet we repaired, this being the only _auberge_ that Goudet possessed at the time of Stevenson's visit. We found it one of the usual small plastered buildings, destitute of any quaintness, but cleaner than most, and sporting a large wooden tobacco pipe, crudely fashioned, by way of a sign. The old people who kept it were good Cevennol types, the woman wearing the curious headgear of the peasant folk, that resembles the tiny burlesque hats worn by musical clowns, and the man in every trait of dress and feature capable of passing for a country Scot. The couple were engagingly ignorant, and had never heard of Scotland, so it was no surprise to learn that they knew nothing of the famous son of that country who had once "hurried over his midday meal" in the dining-room where we were endeavouring to instruct Madame Rivet in the occult art of brewing tea. The Rivets had been four years in possession of the inn at the time of Stevenson's visit, and I should judge that the place had changed in no essential feature, though I missed the portrait of the host's nephew, Regis Senac, "Professor of Fencing and Champion of the Two Americas," that had entertained R. L. S. In return for our hints on tea-making, Madame Rivet charged us somewhat in excess of the usual tariff, and showed herself a veritable _grippe-sous_ before giving change, by carefully reckoning the pieces of fly-blown sugar we had used, a little circumstance the cynic may claim as indicating a knowledge of the spirit if not the letter of Scotland.

V.

It was late in the afternoon when we continued our journey from Goudet, intent on reaching that evening the lake of Bouchet, which Stevenson had selected as the camping-place for the first night of his travels. The highway to Ussel is one of the most beautiful on the whole route, lying through a wide and deep glen, similar to many that exist in the Scottish Highlands, but again unlike all the latter in its numerous terraces, that bear eloquent witness to the industry of the country-folk. Every glen in this region of France is remarkable for this handiwork of the toilers, and the time was, before the advent of the sporting nawbobs, when in some parts of the Scottish Highlands similar rude stonework was common in the glens.

To those who have not seen this work of the poor hill-folk it is not easy to convey a proper idea of its effect on the landscape. In these bleak mountain regions the sheltered valleys and ravines are best suited for growing the produce of the field, but as the soil is scant and the ground too often takes the shape of a very attenuated V, it is impossible to cultivate the slopes of the valley in their natural condition; so, with infinite labour and the patience of their stolid oxen, the Cevennols begin by building near the banks of the stream a loose stone wall, and filling in the space between that and the upward slope with a level bedding of earth. Thus step by step the hillside is brought into cultivation, and the terraces will be found wherever it is possible to rear a wall and carry up soil; indeed, they are to be seen in many places where it would have been thought impossible to prepare them, and out of reason to grow crops upon them. Often they are not so large as an ordinary bedroom in area, and such a space one may see under wheat. A hillside so terraced looks like a flight of giant steps, and it is a unique spectacle to children of the plains to descry, perhaps on the twentieth story, so to say, a team of oxen ploughing one of these eerie fields.