Part 9

Great caution will now be necessary in the application of atmospheric heat and humidity, as an excess of either will cause a premature and unseasonable growth which no after-care could thoroughly rectify. The thermometer for the majority of stove plants need not at any time of the day exceed 60 deg., with a fall of 8 deg. or 10 deg. during the night.

Begonias.--They deserve a place in every stove, as they are plants of easy cultivation, and bloom at a season when flowers are scarce; they can also be introduced to the conservatory or sitting-room when in bloom.

FORCING-HOUSES.

Hotbeds.--Keep up the heat of dungbeds by adding leaves and dung to the linings; but not sufficient of the latter to cause a rank steam in the frames.

Peaches.--If any vacancies occur in the late houses they should now be filled up. We have before recommended trees of large size to be taken from the walls for this purpose, but in so doing care should be taken to select such sorts as the _Murray_, _Elruge_, and _Violette Hative_ Nectarines; _Noblesse_, _Royal George_, _Grosse Mignonne_, and _Chancellor_ Peaches, being the best adapted for forcing. Some sorts are of little value as forced fruit, although they may bear abundantly.

Pines.--Coverings to be used, and as little fire-heat as possible, to keep up the required heat during the night. The heat of the spring-fruiting and succession-houses to be gradually decreased, so that it may range from 60 deg. to 65 deg.. The winter-fruiting plants to range 10 deg. higher.

Vines.--The Grapes will require unremitting attention to keep the house dry, and to cut out the decayed berries. It will, we suppose, be generally observed that the fruit that was ripe before wet weather sets in will keep better than the more backward ones, which may be a useful hint "to make hay while the sun shines," or, in other words, to ripen the fruit in good time. Prune and dress the Vines in the succession-houses as recommended for the early ones. When Vines have been taken out of the house they should be protected from the vicissitudes of the weather, as they are sometimes greatly injured by being exposed to excessive wet and severe frosts.

SECOND WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

Continue to admit air in favourable weather, but not in currents; shut up early; use water sparingly, and always tepid--giving little or none to succulents and plants in a state of rest.

Flowers.--Where there is a pit at liberty it may now be prepared for forcing flowers. The glass must be thoroughly cleaned, as light is of importance at this season. The tree leaves when gathered to be mixed with a portion of well-prepared dung, to produce an early action, and about nine inches of tan or sawdust placed over them in which to plunge the pots. The plants, if in proper condition, may be introduced immediately--viz. Azaleas, Camellias, Persian Lilacs, Gardenias, Moss and Provence Roses, Rhododendrons, Sweet Briars, Honeysuckles, &c. The Hyacinths, Narcissi, Tulips, and other bulbs that have been potted early, as advised in due season, may be introduced successively in small quantities when the buds are an inch or two long, plunging them in any out-of-the-way part of the pit, covering them for a time with four or five inches of old tan.

Heaths and New Holland Plants.--Water them sparingly. Dry the atmosphere if necessary by lighting a slight fire on fine days. Give air freely.

Pelargoniums.--Shift and tie out as they may require. A few of the most forward may be accelerated by a little heat.

Primroses (Chinese).--Water with caution. Two or three small pegs to be stuck into the soil around each, to keep the stem and plant erect in the pot. Thin out weak and deformed bloom-buds.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

The resting section of Orchids should now be allowed to settle down gently to their annual repose by withholding water at the root, by diminishing the amount of atmospheric moisture, and by giving a more liberal ventilation than in the growing season. The more evergreen kinds--such as some of the Aerides, Dendrobiums, Saccolabiums, Vandas, &c., to be favoured with the warmest situation.

FORCING-HOUSES.

Asparagus.--Where it is wanted early, preparations should now be made for forcing it. Any old Cucumber or Melon-bed that still retains a gentle heat may be used for the purpose. The plants to be placed as closely as possible, and covered with three or four inches of any light soil. The application of linings will supply any deficiency of heat that may be caused by severe weather. When the heads come up, to be supplied with an abundance of light and air.

Cherries.--Look over the plants in pots, and if they require shifting into larger pots it may be done at once. The pots to be plunged in coal ashes, or any other loose material, to protect the roots from frost, and where they will commence rooting immediately.

Figs.--If the summer and autumn attention has been given to them, as advised, very little, if any, winter pruning will now be required; but if such is necessary it may be done as soon as the leaves fade. The trees to be carefully washed clean all over with soap and water, and then painted over with a mixture composed of one ounce of soft soap and one ounce of sulphur to a quart of water. Trees in pots to be shifted, or top-dressed, as may be necessary. Shifting is only recommended when it is desirable to increase the size of the trees. To be afterwards placed in a shed with the pots plunged in leaves.

Pines.--The plants on which the fruit has recently appeared to be encouraged with heat and moderate moisture; but those that are likely to "show" for the next two months to be supplied with a temperature to keep them progressing slowly that they may be just beginning to swell their fruit when the days and sun are lengthening and strengthening. The state of temperature of the beds recently renewed with tan to be examined frequently, as they sometimes become suddenly too hot. Now, when Oak and other tree leaves can be collected, it is advisable to use half leaves and half dung for lining the pits heated by fermenting materials; the leaves contribute to make the heat more regular and lasting. Give no water to the succession plants during dull weather except to such plants as are near the flues and pipes, and are apt to get over-dry in consequence.

Sea-kale.--If this delicious vegetable is wanted early, a small hotbed should be made in some convenient place; the roots to be taken up and placed upon it, covered with a little light soil, and protected by boards or any other contrivance most convenient and suitable to exclude light and the inclemency of the weather.

Rhubarb.--The same as advised for Sea-kale. Where a Mushroom-house is at work is the best place for both.

Vines.--All fading leaves to be removed from the Vines on which fruit is hanging, and the house to be kept dry, light, and airy, and free from anything likely to create mould or damp.

THIRD WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

Careful attention should now be given to the picking off mouldy and dead leaves, decaying flower-stems, &c., as they spread contagion wherever they touch. Drip to be prevented, and atmospheric humidity to be disposed of by a gentle day fire occasionally, and the free admission of air.

Azaleas (Chinese).--Introduce a few into heat for early bloom. The _A. Indica alba_ and _Phoenicea_ are best to begin with; to be succeeded by _Smith's coccinea_, and after it any of the other varieties. As decorations for the conservatory or drawing-room they are invaluable where they continue for six weeks or two months in perfect beauty.

Camellias.--Water, when necessary, to be given in a slightly tepid state, and plenty of air, that the buds may be allowed to swell full and prominent by a slow but sure process. If bloom is required early, to be forwarded by introducing them into a situation where heat is applied.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

Withhold moisture entirely from the roots of deciduous Orchids, and such as are sinking into a state of repose. Any late specimens, or importations, making late growths to be favoured with the best light situations in the house and a little water, to keep up the vitality sufficient to produce the secretions necessary to carry them safely through the dull days of winter. Look over all growing plants, and see that they do not suffer for want of water. Look to every Orchid, even the smallest growing on blocks or in baskets, they all require attention. Repot or surface dress any that require it. A favourable day to be chosen to wash the lights for the more free admission of that agent most indispensable for their health. The whole to be kept neat, and free from insects; and the plants on stages, tables, or suspended from blocks, baskets, &c., to be arranged in a manner the most suitable for a picturesque and pleasing effect.

FORCING-HOUSES.

Where early forcing is intended it is advisable to give a thorough cleansing to the houses by limewashing and dressing the wood of Cherries, Figs, Peaches, Vines, &c., as frequently directed.

Beans (Dwarf Kidney).--Sow in six-inch pots; when crocked to be filled within three inches of the rim with a compost consisting of old Cucumber or Melon mould, rotten dung and leaf mould in about equal proportions. To be placed in any convenient part of the forcing-house for a few days until the soil is warm. The Beans are then sown about ten or twelve in each pot, and pressed by the finger about an inch below the soil. In a week they will be up; to be then thinned out, according to the strength of the plants, to six or eight in each, and to receive a gentle watering. When the two first leaves are fully developed the plants to be earthed up as high as the cotyledons. To be regularly syringed and watered at the roots, taking especial care that they do not become too wet, or they will damp off. When they have made two joints to be stopped, to cause them to produce laterals and bearing branches. The plants to be placed as close to the glass as possible. The _Chinese Dwarf_ and _Fulmer_ are good sorts for forcing.

Figs.--A temperature of about 40 deg. will suit them at present; if allowed to get lower they are very apt to suffer. Trees in pots to be removed to any house where that degree of temperature is kept up.

Peaches.--Where the roots are inside, and have been kept dry, an application of weak, clear liquid manure, at the temperature of summer heat (76 deg.), will act as a stimulant to the roots, whose services are required before much excitement takes place at top.

Pines.--Now, at the dullest season of the year, it is necessary to be very cautious in regulating the bottom and surface temperatures, more especially in the succession-houses or pits; a bottom heat of about 70 deg., with a steady top temperature of about 60 deg. during the day, and about 55 deg. during the night, will keep the plants in a comparatively comfortable state of rest, neither allowing the temperature to decline so low as to reduce their vitality to such a degree as to endanger their restoration to vigour in proper season, nor to rise so high as to excite them into a growth that would be immature for want of solar light and heat. A moderate application of water will also be necessary.

Vines.--When the Grapes are all cut, prune the Vines without loss of time, that the wounds may have sufficient time to get perfectly healed before they are excited into growth. If delayed until early spring, bleeding will be sure to follow. Vines in pots intended for forcing should either be placed within the protection of the house appropriated to them, or secured from the effects of severe weather.

FOURTH WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

The great object should now be to keep them moderately dry; water, when necessary, to be given in the forenoon. Gentle fires to be applied in the daytime, with a sufficiency of air to allow the vapour to pass off. All decaying leaves, flower-stalks, &c., to be carefully picked off. All weeds, moss on the surface of pots, or anything else that would tend to cause dampness, mildew, or decomposition, to be cleared away. Pinch off the tops of any of the half-hardy plants that are growing too rapidly.

Climbers.--To be closely tied, that they may interfere as little as possible with the admission of light.

Forcing Pit.--The various plants described in former Calendars, and recommended to be forwarded here for furnishing the drawing-room, conservatory, or mixed greenhouse, will require careful and skilful attention. Moderate syringings with tepid water to be given on suitable occasions. Fire heat to be applied, more especially in the daytime, with air at every favourable opportunity. The pit to be shut up early, and the heat to be husbanded by external coverings in preference to night heat. Syringings with the Gishurst Compound, or frequent and moderate fumigations of tobacco smoke, to be given to destroy green fly. The water to be always tepid when applied to the roots or branches when they require it.

New Holland Plants.--As they are very apt to suffer when exposed to cold draughts of air, and as they are generally wintered in the same house with the more hardy sorts of greenhouse plants, they should occupy a part of the house where air can be admitted, when necessary, from the top lights only.

Orange Trees.--Advantage to be taken of unfavourable weather for out-door work, to clean the foliage of Orange trees and Camellias. It is as essential to the health of such things that the foliage be kept clean, and, therefore, in a fit state to perform its functions, as that their roots be kept in a healthy, active state.

FORCING-HOUSES.

Asparagus.--Make a slight hotbed of tree leaves, if they can be procured, of size or substance sufficient only to cause a gentle heat. The roots may be taken up from the open ground, and planted at once in the bed. Mice and slugs to be looked after. Any vacant pits, or frames, may be made available for the purpose of forcing Asparagus.

Cherries.--To be treated as advised for Peaches.

Cucumbers.--If the plants are strong, and you have a full command of bottom and atmospheric heat, you may calculate, with a little attention, upon ultimate success. Air to be admitted when it is safe to do so, to get the leaves dry, if possible, daily. Light is indispensable, and steep-roofed houses, or pits, are preferred for that object in winter. The early nursing-box for young plants should be well supplied with linings, the glass washed clean and kept in good repair.

Mushrooms.--Continue to prepare succession-beds as formerly directed. The beds that have been in bearing some time, if the surface is dry, to be watered with clear, weak liquid manure, a few degrees warmer than the temperature of the house.

Peaches.--The early house should now be set in order, by being thoroughly cleansed, whitewashed, and the trees pruned, dressed, and tied. Air to be given during the day, and the house to be shut up at night for a fortnight or three weeks, preparatory to the commencement of forcing.

Pines.--The principal objects of attention during this dull season should comprise a moderate declension of heat and moisture, and a moderate supply of air at all times when it can be admitted with safety. When heat is supplied by fermenting materials the linings will require some sort of covering--as straw, fern, boards, or shutters--to protect them from cold winds, frosts, or rains; only a gentle bottom heat is now required at this, that should be, their season of rest, as a dry and moderately warm atmosphere is nearly all they will require. If the young plants are growing in pits heated solely by dung linings, be careful to exclude the steam from the dung, as excess of damp will rot the hearts of the plants.

Vines.--If early Grapes are required, it is advisable to adopt the old-fashioned plan of placing some sweet hot dung inside the house, to produce an atmosphere that is most congenial for softening the wood, and for "breaking" the buds. The roots, if outside, to be covered with a good depth of litter, to produce an increase of heat by fermentation, and to prevent the escape of terrestrial heat. All Vines casting their leaves to be pruned immediately.

DECEMBER.

FIRST WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

Every endeavour should now be made to keep these houses as gay as possible. Fire-heat to be applied occasionally during dull, dark, or rainy weather, taking care not to raise the temperature too high--say greenhouse from 50 deg. to 55 deg. by day and from 40 deg. to 45 deg. by night; conservatory 60 deg. by day and 50 deg. by night. Chrysanthemums to be removed as soon as they get shabby, to be succeeded by early Camellias. The _Euphorbia jacquiniflora_ is well worthy of attention now; it requires but a very moderate allowance of water at this season, as the least saturation or interference with the root action will cause the leaves to turn yellow while the plant is in flower. _Poinsettia pulcherrima_ is also worthy of particular attention as a noble ornamental flower at this season. The old _Plumbago Capensis_ and _rosea_ still retain their places amongst our best plants at this season. Acacias and Cytisuses, being yellow and showy, give, with the other flowers, a variety of colours to beautify the whole. _Gesnera zebrina_ should not be forgotten; the elegant markings of the leaves contribute to enhance the beauty of this beautiful winter flower.

Heaths.--As fire-heat is generally injurious to this tribe of plants it is advisable to be very cautious in its application. They can bear a good deal of cold and some degrees of frost without sustaining any very serious injury; but they cannot bear the drying influence of fire-heat without serious damage to their foliage, and which is very frequently death to the plants. They will require but very little water, especially the large specimens, which should be very particularly examined as to their state of dryness or otherwise, as a guide to the application or withholding of water. An abundance of air to be given on fine days, to keep the plants from growing.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

A cautious application of fire-heat to be still observed here. The temperature to be kept rather low than otherwise, for fear of exciting premature growth. A small portion of air to be admitted on fine days, to purify the atmosphere of the house. Keep the surface of the soil in the pots free from weeds, as also from moss and lichen; but when doing so do not loosen the soil so as to injure the roots near the surface. Keep every plant free from dead leaves, and all climbing plants neatly tied up. The Achimenes, Clerodendrons, Erythrinas, Gloxinias, and the various bulbs will now be approaching a state of repose, and therefore will require but little or no water. To prevent confusion or mistakes it is advisable to place them on a shelf, or some other part of the house, by themselves. Although dormant, or nearly so, they require a stove temperature to keep them safe and sound.

FORCING-HOUSES.

Asparagus and Sea-kale.--Make up beds as wanted.

Mushrooms.--Keep a moist atmosphere in the house, and the temperature steadily at or near 60 deg.. A fresh bed to be made and spawned every three or four weeks, to produce successional crops.

Pines.--The fruit now swelling will require the temperature and moisture of the house or pit to be kept up. Those intended for the main crop to be kept in a regular state, allowing them air at every favourable opportunity, with a day temperature from 70 deg. to 75 deg. and from 55 deg. to 60 deg. at night. Plants in bloom to receive careful attention. Keep the atmosphere dry with a brisk temperature, admitting a little fresh air at favourable opportunities, to prevent them from being injured by damp. When the heat is kept up by dung linings, constant watching will be necessary to prevent any fluctuation of temperature, having materials at hand to assist in case of frost.

Vines.--Where forcing has commenced attend to the breaking of the Vines by the application of fermenting manure inside the house, as advised last week, which will be found the best means of keeping the atmosphere regularly moist; but if such cannot be used, the wood should be syringed frequently, and evaporating-pans, or troughs, kept full of water. The roots, if outside, to be protected, and afforded a steady, gentle warmth until the buds are fairly swelled. As it is advisable to proceed very slowly with early Vines, the temperature to range from 55 deg. to 60 deg. by day and from 45 deg. to 50 deg. by night, and even rather under than over the above scale. Late Grapes will require great care to preserve them from damp. Look over them frequently, and dry the house by fire during the day.

SECOND WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

Every dead, decaying, and mouldy leaf, and flowerstalk, to be removed as soon as they are seen. Mildew to be banished by an application of flowers of sulphur, and afterwards to be prevented from making its appearance by a free ventilation on clear, mild mornings, using a little fire heat at the same time. Great caution is now necessary in giving water to the plants, more especially to such as have not well matured their growth, and are in a rather soft state. It is also advisable to look over them every morning, that the flagging of a leaf may be noticed, and the necessary supply of water be given. All pots to be turned around occasionally to keep the plants uniform.

Calceolarias.--Remove all decayed leaves, and be careful to give no more water than is really required. Keep down green fly.

Cinerarias.--No more fire heat to be given than is necessary to keep out frost. The plants intended for large specimens to receive their final shift; air to be given on all occasions in favourable weather. Every one that is getting pot-bound to be shifted. Green fly to be kept down by fumigating. The most forward to have the lightest place in the house, close to the glass, with sufficient space for the air to circulate freely around the foliage of each.

Pelargoniums.--To be kept rather cool and dry; fire heat to be avoided, except when necessary to prevent the temperature falling below 40 deg., or to dispel damp. Every plant intended for early bloom to be arranged in the best form. The system of arranging a piece of twisted bass under the rim of the pot, to which loops are fastened to secure the shoots and the better formation of the plant, obviates the too-extensive use of sticks, a superfluity of which is at all times objectionable.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

Continue to act as advised lately. Care and caution in the application of water are more especially required, as there is not a single feature in the cultivation of plants during the winter in which the amateur is more likely to err, and by reason of which a greater amount of injury is sustained, than in the application of water either in its fluid or vaporous state. If applied to the soil in superabundance, the roots, being inactive, are certain to sustain some degree of injury; and if it is applied in excess to the atmosphere in the form of vapour, the exhalations from the leaves of the plants will be checked in consequence of the density of the medium that surrounds them when they will be sure to suffer.

FORCING-HOUSES.

Cucumbers.--Sow some good variety for planting out next month. A one-light frame on a well-worked bed of dung and leaves is most suitable for the purpose, as producing an atmosphere moist and congenial for their healthy vegetation and growth.

Peaches.--Syringe the trees that are just started and swelling the buds, and keep every plant clean and neat.

Pines.--When the application of fire heat is necessary during severe weather, it is advisable to pay particular attention to those that have done blooming and swelling off in various stages, that they may not receive a check from being over-dry at the roots.