Part 3

We had been away from home just one month and a half and in that time--although not seeing any actual field service--we believed we had become pretty thoroughly seasoned in camp life. One month of steady downpour and half a month of blazing tropical sun was enough to do the trick. We were housed in as comfortable quarters as possible under the circumstances. The climate here made us so sleepy and lazy that at all hours, between eight in the morning and five in the afternoon, the tents contained sleeping men, and they slept so soundly that often they would wake to find some joker had been smearing their faces with soot and grease. Nights in Jacksonville, however, brought that musical pest we all knew so well, the mosquito. He abounds along the St. Johns river, and seemed to enjoy good health and strength, judging from the looks of our boys, who were trying to sleep in provost headquarters while off guard during the night.

We were doing all night work now, relieved by Companies K, Forty-ninth Iowa, and I, First Wisconsin. This was found necessary after pay-day. This same day brought a rise in the price of souvenirs, live alligators and everything the soldier would be likely to buy to send home. What money the soldier received, if not sent home immediately, was generally left in saloons, and the storekeepers were merely making a bid for it, for it must go somewhere and right away too.

We had two squads doing duty in the camps of the division to see that regulations were lived up to. Our instructions were, "keep your eyes open, mouth closed." "Watch strangers in camp (no civilians were allowed unless with official escort), watch the policing of streets and the care of kitchens and sinks." "Don't criticise, but report observations on return," and the final injunction from Lieutenant Brunner, "Don't be fresh." The guard had no friends, for we arrested everybody found on the streets after taps. We had no drills, and up to this time enjoyed excellent health, no one from the company being sick. We took daily walks around the country and into Jacksonville while off duty. Our regiment paraded through Jacksonville on a Saturday afternoon and drew much favorable comment. We were reviewed by Generals Lee and Burt, the latter being our brigade commander. After we had passed the reviewing stand General Lee mounted his magnificent gray horse "Cuba," and rode at the head of the regiment back to camp. The people of Jacksonville said that the New Jersey regiment was the finest seen there, and Lee made the remark that he wished only one regiment like the Second New Jersey to show the Spaniards what an organized body of troops should be. His marching at our head was a mark of esteem in which he held us. This week we received our pay from the government to June 15th, and the boys were correspondingly happy. We were now kept so constantly on the jump that we hardly had the time to write to anybody. The box sent by the good people of Rutherford arrived on Sunday, but for lack of transportation it did not get into camp until Wednesday. All the perishable stuff, like cake, etc., was unfit to eat, but what was hailed with joy by the boys was canned vegetables and fruit. We had been getting greasy meat for a couple of weeks and had no money to buy anything else, and this in a hot climate. One box was marked Dick Rusk and Ben Cohen. This was for our tent, and for some time after we were enabled to "decorate the cloth" in great style with canned corn, mustard pickles, pickled onions, baked beans, chow-chow, condensed milk and tomato soup. One morning, being off duty, Corporals Cohen, Rusk and myself strolled into town. A gentleman hailed us from his porch and proceeded to show us his garden. This garden would fill any northerner with envy. He had orange trees, seven of them, all with oranges a shade darker than the beautiful green of the leaves. A beautiful tree of the fern family, having large branches of bright yellow flowers. These he said grew wild in Mexico. Enormous hydrangeas, hibiscus, the flowers of which were as large as an Easter lily, but a beautiful pink, with a maroon throat. Eight blooms were on this plant. The season of roses had ended, but he had some very handsome Marshal Neils, whose tree covered a large arbor. He had sent that morning to General Lee a large basket of red, white and blue flowers. He also showed us an Acacia tree which had delicate pink flowers the same time it had long brown pods of seed. We had some trouble in leaving this interesting gentleman. Baseball and athletic sports became quite popular at this time, and received the official endorsement of our higher officers. General Burt was often seen on the grand stand "rooting" for the team from his brigade. But the games were mostly between Wisconsin, Illinois, New Jersey and Iowa. The Wisconsin boys gained the championship, but they had to work hard for it. The Jersey boys excelled in the athletic sports and won nearly every event in the set of games. The General was quite a strict disciplinarian, but one day he became quite enthusiastic over a game of ball and was invited to take part. When he took off his coat he explained that he was no longer an officer, but just "one of the boys." The boys took this explanation literally, and during the game the General was a fair mark for all sorts of baseball slang and "jolly."

June 28th brought a very happy conclusion to our guard duty in Jacksonville, from which we were relieved by a company from the First North Carolina regiment. The company had been worked hard, and it was beginning to tell on us. Sergeant Collins at noon brought in the last detail, and as they marched proudly up the length of the company street they were applauded heartily. We could now take our old place at the left of the regiment and have the pleasure of serving under Lieutenant Blake in the field drills. There was no reason now why we should not become the record company of the regiment. The Wisconsin boys paid the regiment a visit one night. They were dressed only in their under garments, with their poncho's over their shoulders, and they had an elegant time. Our boys returned the visit the next night, in the same stylish undress, with the addition of a red blanket, instead of a poncho, leaving one arm bare to the shoulder. We then stuck our haversacks on our heads, with the flap trailing behind. The ridiculous get up was so taking that nearly half the regiment turned out, and headed by the drum corps, we marched past the Second Illinois camp and through the camps of the Second and Fourth Virginia, Second Wisconsin and Forty-ninth Iowa, in all of which officers and men turned out and cheered us. The comment of "Jersey, you're all right," seemed to fit the case exactly. All the mascots, big and little, turned out with us, even the red, white and blue rooster.

Arriving back in camp, the Colonel was called out and in a neat speech he complimented the men on their orderly behavior, wished us to have all the fun we could get, but warned us to keep within the bounds of military discipline. The efforts we had put forth to make ourselves ridiculous had covered us with perspiration and a thick layer of dust clung to everything that was exposed, so that we were a sight to make the iron faced gods laugh. The bathhouses were soon crowded, and far into the night shirtless human spectres were flitting through the streets.

We had a turn at drill the next morning and it was particularly severe. Hot! My, in the morning it seemed to blister, and we were soaked with perspiration, for we had regimental battle exercises; but as soon as we returned we stripped, got a bath and felt better. I remember distinctly that morning after the bath of sitting down in only my trousers and socks and writing a long letter to the folks at home.

In our night patrols of the city we came across some very nice people who took pains to get our names, and would ask for us if we did not appear on guard the next night. Upon their invitation I visited a family by the name of Rich, and while there two other of our boys came along, whereupon the table was spread and we had a nice afternoon lunch. Next day they sent us a big chocolate layer cake.

The champion watermelon eater of the company was universally conceded to be Private Isaac Wilson, and a meal seldom passed but Ike was seen up to his ears in melon. This fruit cost from 20 cents to nothing, according to the distance from camp. One depot commissary guard of eight men had six melons to eat. Ike was there and they disappeared very quickly. Every time the reliefs awoke during the night watermelon stared them in the face.

As we were upon the eve of very serious operations in Cuba, the authorities deemed it expedient to have the Articles of War read to the soldiers. There are 127, and we received them upon the installment plan at roll call in the morning and evening. Lieutenant Brunner read these so well that it was rumored he intended to lecture after the war was over on what not to do in war times.

A number of excellent entertainments were given in the Y.M.C.A. tent. The Second Illinois band gave a concert one evening, and on another occasion Sergeant Gift and Private Gillen sang solos, while Private F.M. Stevens played enjoyable selections upon the piano; at the close of which a premature announcement by the chaplain of the fall of Santiago was made, and an enthusiastic scene took place, while the cheering was taken up all over camp. The boys had been following events closely and all were eager for action. We felt keenly the hardships our comrades were enduring and wished to share them. We were at this time, perhaps, in better condition for an active campaign than at any time of our stay in the south, being fully equipped, in excellent spirits and good health.

PART FOURTH

PLEASURES OF THE CAMP.

For July 4th an elaborate program had been prepared, but owing to a considerable downpour of rain it was postponed to the next day. The celebration probably surpassed anything of its kind Jacksonville ever saw, and its features are not likely to be seen again. These were: 9 a.m., music and the reading of the Declaration of Independence, with speeches; 12 m., salute of 48 guns; 4.30 p.m., parade of all the troops in camp, numbering 12,000; but most interesting was the train of 189 pack mules connected with the regiment of Rough Riders commanded by Colonel Torrey. It was in genuine Rocky Mountain style, and created considerable interest. The Second Mississippi regiment of infantry turned out only half equipped, and the transition periods from a citizen to a trained soldier were seen to advantage. Our regiment paraded in good shape, with L Company in its honorable position at the left of the regiment. Owing to another downpour of rain the line of march was shortened, and after being reviewed we marched back to camp, drenched to the skin. The men all had changes of underclothing and no bad effects resulted, but the street next morning resembled the rear of a tenement in New York on wash day.

Sunday evening, July 8th, a detachment from each company of our regiment was assembled to attend service in the First Presbyterian Church of Jacksonville, and about 300 men, headed by the First Wisconsin band, left camp at 7 p.m. After the capture of the city by the Federal troops during the Civil War, this church was used by them as a hospital and the building has not been altered in any particular since then. The band led in the singing. It probably would have been pleasant out of doors, but in a boxlike structure of truly southern style, with the bass drum, snare drums and cymbals banging out "Nearer, My God, to Thee," it became a very trying experience indeed.

The flowers of Florida seemed to be rather a myth, very few being seen, but those of us who had friends at home who loved flowers were able to find some choice specimens. The handsomest wild flower I saw was the Hibiscus. It grew about five feet high in dense swampy thickets, usually at the edge of creeks. Its blossoms measured fully ten inches in diameter. Its great wide throat was crimson. Yellow sepals and four pink petals blotched with black completed this beautiful flower. They grow in profusion, and against a background of green leaves make a very showy appearance.

During our journey south I noticed large clumps of yellow Jack-in-the-Pulpits which were twice the size of our Jersey plants. The season of flowers in Florida is the months of February, March and April. Then the roses are in bloom. Marshal Neils grow in almost every garden in Jacksonville, some climbing to the tops of the houses, and upon the roof, late blossoms of tea roses were still to be seen. The Passion flower is very common, the climate favoring this aptly named blue and white legendary flower of the Crucifixion. Seeds of other flowers blown from gardens take root in the streets and empty lots, and among them the starry-eyed phlox lifts up its pleasant little face. Camellias also were very common, lading the air near them with rich perfume. Cannas reached perfection without any cultivation, short plants but immense flaming blossoms; others were yellow, blotched with red. The collecting of these flowers was a positive pleasure, even in the hot sun.

July 9th our regiment was swelled to its full complement by the addition of 330 recruits from Sea Girt, and a finer lot of young men did not come to camp for any regiment. More than this, the State had done for the Nation what no other had, equipped every man ready to go to the front. Time and again recruits would come from Illinois, Wisconsin, Iowa, Virginia and North Carolina dressed just as they appeared at home. As our boys marched through Jacksonville escorted by detachments from each company, they received considerable applause. They carried aloft the banner "New Jersey Recruits! This is the material that New Jersey sends." We were all proud of our State. At the camp their reception was cooled by a downpour of rain.

Monday morning, July 11th, it commenced to rain and it rained in torrents the rest of the day and all night. It flooded the tents, so that boards and even boxes had to be brought into service to stand on. The recruits, being quartered on lower ground, were practically drowned out, so that they either had to stand in the rain or seek shelter in tents already crowded to their limits. There was hardly a dry foot in camp Tuesday night.

A large number of 1884-model Springfield rifles arrived at this time and our regiment was supplied. Their newest feature was a ramrod bayonet, the dangerous end being cast like a bit. By giving a twist to the rifle after entering a body it would tear the flesh horribly. In other respects it was the same rifle used in the National Guard for years.

Thursday, July 14th, a telegram was received by Adjutant Hilton announcing the fall of Santiago. The news was genuine this time, and the occasion prompted an outburst of enthusiasm. Later on the good feeling was increased by the welcome command of "Fall in for your pay."

The coloring and shapes which the clouds assumed in the early evening were quite remarkable. One evening in particular, at about 6.30, a scarlet and white streak stretched across the heavens from north to south, and about five minutes afterwards a line of blue, which was as straight as if cut out with a knife, came across the north end, running east and west. The combination made a very striking similitude to an American flag.

At the waterworks in Jacksonville there was a pond in which lived an alligator of variously estimated lengths and age. One day while I was idly watching the game fish which also inhabited the pool, the keeper brought the saurian's noonday lunch in the shape of a live chicken. Coaxing the ugly reptile to come nearer the wire fence proved unavailing, so the chicken was thrown about one foot from his snout. Like a flash the great mouth opened, there was a splash, a few feathers, a couple of gulps, and the huge head was resting just the same as before, never moving an eye. The slang expression of "you can't lose me when grub is around" seemed to fit his case exactly.

A company fund was now established for the purpose of securing a greater variety of food, building a mess-house, and to pay the cook a few more dollars than the government provided. The assessment was 50 cents per month for each member. Arrangement was also made with a colored woman to do the clothes washing of the company, which also necessitated a payment of 50 cents a month per man. This was so cheap that very few could not afford it, and the wash was quite large each week. The intention of the company fund was to discourage the purchase of pies, cakes, ice cream, etc., all too frequently indulged in. Some of the "credits" obtained at these stores amounted to $3.00 or more, which the soldier was supposed to liquidate on pay-day.

Now that the signs pointed to an early termination of the war, the prospect of getting to Cuba grew less and less, and the boys commenced to turn their thoughts on pleasure. A large number of cameras made their appearance, and trips were taken for the purpose of getting views of Florida life. These pictures were developed in Jacksonville and usually sent home. Some excellent ones were obtained. Trips were made to Pablo Beach, a bathing resort on the coast to the east, St. Augustine, and up the St. Johns river, all of which were at reduced rates.

To the above list of diversions must be added a wedding. The ceremony took place in the Y.M.C.A. tent, and was between a member of the Second Illinois Regiment and his sweetheart from Chicago. The bride was fair, wore a white dress, with bouquets of orange blossoms at her belt and in her hair. The groom wore, in addition to his uniform, a high white collar that was the envy of all the boys and white kid gloves, which must have been excruciating. They received a great ovation upon leaving. Other marriages took place, some of which we did not hear of until reaching home. Some of our boys were regular attendants at church and sang in the choirs, being heartily welcomed by the good people of Jacksonville.

Early one Saturday morning Corporals Cohen, Rusk and myself decided upon a trip to St. Augustine. Inspection of quarters was completed at 8.30 a.m. and we immediately proceeded to Jacksonville to take the train south, there being no other duties during the day. The fare to soldiers had been reduced one-half, or 50 cents, which fact enabled large numbers of soldiers to take advantage of the trip. This day was no exception, and the cars were crowded. We went to the front of the train and there found an empty coach, save for two or three negroes. We decided that we were extremely fortunate indeed. The rear was partitioned off for baggage. The conductor happened through and asked us if we could not find room in the rear cars. We were surprised, but answered that we might have found room on the "roof." After he had left it dawned upon us that this was a car portioned off for negroes, as members of this race only came into it, so we very graciously asked those in the car if they had any objections to our staying there. The courtesy took them so much by surprise that they could only stare at us for answer. So we took our seats again and prepared to enjoy ourselves.

After a half hour's wait we were fairly started, only to stop every few miles to sidetrack and allow other trains to pass. These waits became so numerous that it was nearly noon before we reached St. Augustine and were just one and one-half hours behind schedule.

All the way down the forests seemed fresher and the flowers grew more thickly among the pines. The absence of charred, blackened areas was also noticeable.

The city, seen from a distance, reminded one strongly of a city of the Moors, for above the trees rose a bewildering labyrinth of towers and minarets, which carried us back to the charming descriptions in Irving's "Mahomet" and "Granada." We alighted at a very pretty and airy station surrounded by large beds of flowers and tropical plants. Among the many importuning jehus we selected one who took us free to a restaurant. The ebony driver was very loquacious; laughed when we laughed and interspersed gratis information which was highly interesting. We jested at the boys along the streets not so fortunate as we, and tried to cheer them up with the assurance that it was five miles at least to the nearest "grub."

The air was remarkably clear and bracing, and is so all the year round. Every garden seemed a mass of color. Oleanders were everywhere, filling the air with their spicy breath, drooping their great bowers of blossoms over the sidewalks. Every home had its well-kept lawns and shade trees, some with fountains playing enhanced the beauty of the place. The Memorial Presbyterian Church is very handsome, and contains one of the finest organs in the South. H.M. Flagler built this church in 1890 in memory of his daughter, and it is supposed to have cost $250,000. A little to the east is the Baptist church, built a few years later, with its heavy impressive front and tall, square tower, preserving the sedate architecture of this denomination, while conforming to the general tendency to things Moorish. But here on our right is one of the most magnificent hotels of the South, the Ponce de Leon, which stands alone the most handsome and unique of its kind in the United States. Built upon the style of the Moorish palaces of the fifteenth century, its architecture is at once voluptuous and elegant,--towers and minarets shooting up here and there. Its massive iron gates and chains with spiked balls, heavy oaken doors, courts, balconies, and marbled walks, are richly carved in Moorish figures. The gardens surrounding it are only such as a tropical climate can produce. Stately palmettos and palms shoot up their feathery tops above graceful bananas lazily waving their plumes in the fresh sea breeze; huge masses of oleanders, which here seem to reach their perfection, bending beneath the weight of their blossoms, formed arches of exquisite beauty across the walks; century plants, orange trees with leaves of the softest green imaginable while underneath were clusters of fruit of a still darker color, reminders of a golden harvest. Hydrangeas of enormous size, the leaves of which were entirely hidden by the great tresses of pink and blue flowers,--were scattered profusely in all directions. Roses seemed to grow everywhere, climbing over fences, into trees, up the sides of buildings--handsome ones that are strangers to northerners who have slim purses; and right in the midst of all this beauty of color were playing fountains sending sprays of silver ten and fifteen feet high. It is a veritable Garden of Eden. Henry M. Flagler is the controlling spirit in this beautiful palace, as he is in the other hotels, the massive Cordova and beautiful Alcazar, with their lovely gardens and fountains. Mr. Flagler's influence extends over the greater part of the east coast in hotels and railroads of this famous wintering State.

The older part of the town lies along the water front, just as the Spaniards had planned the city. On our left was an old building formerly used as a barracks, but now devoted to the manufacture of cigars and quite dilapidated. On the right stood a large square building which many times resounded with the laughter and possible braggadocio of the cavalier, for this was the residence of the Governor-General of the Floridas. It is now used as the post-office.