CHAPTER VIII
WEST OF THE JORDAN
"Yet who would stop, or fear to advance, Though home or shelter he had none, With such a sky to lead him on?"
W. WORDSWORTH
Very few things in the East fulfil adequately the purposes for which they are intended, and we were not at all surprised when the soldier, who arrived punctually at six o'clock next morning, and who had many graces, and possibly all the virtues, appeared mounted on a horse utterly unfit for the fatiguing journey we contemplated. We accordingly despatched him back to the serai, with thanks and compliments, and a message to the effect that we should prefer a better article. These little matters consume a great deal of time, and a proportionate amount of bad language, and to economise the one, and avoid the other, we went for a walk. Our kindly companion, who had been for some years a dispenser in the Scottish hospital in Tiberias, seemed to think there would be no objection to a trespass into the grounds of the mudir's private house, and obligingly lent a hand while we collected the antique busts which were dispersed about his garden, and arranged them on garden seats with a view to photography. It is not every day one comes across half-a-dozen perfect specimens of Greek art never photographed before; and so obliging an amateur of beauty as the mudir had proved himself, would assuredly have understood and pardoned our temptation had he been up, which (perhaps happily, as some element of doubt remained) he was not. We then walked somewhat farther, feasted our eyes once more upon all the pleasant things of Besan, classical and modern, and when on our return we still found the incompetent steed tied up at the entrance to our khan, we wandered off to the serai, and finally possessed ourselves of an alternative soldier, although with some suspicion that this time it was the man, and not the horse, who was incompetent.
Neither Khalil nor the Artist had a high opinion of the plan cherished by the Lady and the Doctor—one feared scarcity of barley for the horses, the other of the amenities of civilisation for herself. The Artist, however, could not speak Arabic, so if there were any collusion with the officer it could only have been on the part of Khalil. We had not, however, gone far from Besan, only far enough to be beyond reach of appeal, when we were presented with a series of pictures of the impossibilities ahead. No one knew where the Meshalcha Bedu were at present encamped—the place where they would undoubtedly be found was quite beyond a day's journey; we had started too late (it was already eight o'clock) to venture on so great a risk; it was not certain how we should be received. The consequences to ourselves were painted in vivid colours, but all these observations had for us an interest that was merely psychological and linguistic, as exhibiting the way in which the Arab mind worked. The Arab imagination was not daunted, however, and the next shot told. The fords of the Jordan would be impassable—had we not seen how full the Jalûd was, had not the little stream we had even now crossed reached to the knees of the horses, had not all the streams been drinking away there up in the hills, where Allah had so lately sent us the blessing of rain? The Lady and the Doctor looked guiltily at each other. The one put confidence in Sadowi, the other in his own inches; but if they should find they had inveigled the Artist into floating down the Jordan with not so much as an insurance upon her kodak! The Lady, somewhat disingenuously, began to enlarge upon the prospect of visiting Pella, in hope of extracting an expression of desire, which might be quotable in case of emergency; but her friend showed no enthusiasm for Greek cities, declined to endorse ravings over early Christian refugees, and asked if any other way were shorter. Khalil's honour was appealed to, as to the veracity of the soldier's allegations. He swore upon his beard, which he did not possess, and upon his eyes, of which only one was in working order, upon his head and his heart, that the thing was impossible.
What were we to do? Go meekly back to Besan, abandon all our prospects, our tent of many poles (we had been assured that we must not think of entering one with less than three, and that our dignity really required even more), our tattooed ladies with the trains of their dresses in front, our stately shech, who would undoubtedly kill a sheep and bake cakes for us, like the patriarchs did when they had guests—return to the banalities of Nablûs, where children asked for backsheesh, and finally ride home along a commonplace highroad to Jerusalem?
"When the tale of bricks is doubled Moses comes," say the Arabs—and the soldier had an idea. We were to descend the banks of the Jordan on the west side. We had been assured that no one ever did this, that the district was very wild, and even lawless, and that the few Bedu we might chance to meet were such as we should not care to house with. However, we had our soldier, who looked effective (at a distance), and was bristling with weapons, and it would be quite interesting to sleep in the desert, light a fire to keep off wild beasts, and take turns to mount guard, like a boys' story book. Apparently, however, it need not come to this. Somewhere in the wilderness was a serai, a little fortress or Government building, which existed for the accommodation of tax-collectors, and there we could, no doubt, find shelter. We were somewhat inclined to believe that the whole thing was "a put-up job," arranged before we left, and that our soldier's journey was being utilised for conveying despatches, or more, probably, messages, from the parent Government establishment in Besan. However, we could only submit; had we persisted, our leader was not so unintelligent as not to see that his prophecies were fulfilled, and we wheeled round, and turned off to the south-east, fairly content with our prospects after all.
We had followed the west side of the Jordan from the Sea of Tiberias to Besan, and now we were to follow it down to its fall into the Dead Sea—65 miles in all. Our path lay in the deep valley between the hills of Gilead on the east and the hills of Samaria and Judæa on the west—a valley which the Arabs very suitably call _El-Ghor_—_i.e._ The Rift. It varies in width from 6 or 7 miles in the district of Besan to about 3 for some 13 miles alongside the hills of Samaria, widening by slow degrees till near Jericho, when it stretches out into a plain, as at Besan. The river winds and twists deep down at the bottom, its course marked all the way by an exuberant fertility, often extending for some distance east and west, showing where tributary streams are hastening down from the watersheds above. We rode, for the most part, upon somewhat higher ground, on terraces of land at the foot, or on the side of, the hills, as the case might be, and were often able to look down into this deep hollow of vivid green, reminding us, in exaggerated form, as so much in this land is exaggerated, of a north country ghyll. To realise its depth one has to remember that it is deeper below the earth's surface than an average coal mine, that it is really an old sea-bottom, and that the rapidity of the stream, falling at first 40 feet in a mile, accounts for the weird forms of washed-out mounds of earth, for the exposed tree roots, for the heaps of débris of all kinds. The name of the Jordan is not composed of the two names Jor and Dan, as the early pilgrims so ingeniously conjectured, but means, appropriately, the "downcomer."
For some distance, all around and below Besan, there are abundant signs of extreme fertility. In ancient times it was noted for corn, dates, balsam, flax, and sugar-cane. The edicts of Diocletian refer to its trade in linen, and Vespasian settled his troops in this district as one capable of bearing a large additional population. In the course of the morning we crossed over a score of streams, and many remains of aqueducts showed how, in old days, they had been turned to the utmost account for irrigation. When we had passed but a few miles beyond Besan, we lost all traces of human habitation, although not of human handiwork, for wide patches of well-cultivated land testified that, like the Israelites of old, the hill population only comes down to sow, guard, and reap its harvests. Indeed, for the greater part of the year the Ghor would be uninhabitable. Its hothouse vegetation implies also a hothouse climate; its swamps are beautiful but malarious; its streams are valuable for irrigation but death-dealing to drink, impregnated with chlorides and sodium, and rank with decaying vegetable matter.
From time to time we came across small groups of Bedawy tents, mainly of a humble kind, although now and then a tent of three poles, with a lance planted at the doorway, testified to the presence of a shech. Within but a short distance we were certain to find large flocks of lambs, white and woolly, a rare sight to us, accustomed only to the goats capable of enduring the aridity of the Jerusalem district, and familiar with sheep only as household pets, sharing equally with the cat and the water-pipe. The problem which at first presented itself was: What had become of all the mothers? The answer was generally found a mile or so farther on, in some green spot, whither they had been driven for pasture, to be brought back later, to the safety of the camp, and the needs of their nurslings.
It seemed to us that we now and then climbed hills for the sake of descending them, and that more than once we went across country to return to the neighbourhood of the point from which we started; but, after all, it is difficult to judge of distances with only distant mountains for landmarks, and one part of such a valley as the Ghor is very much like another. We were to lunch beside the Wady Mâlih, the first stream on this part of our journey suitable alike for horse and man, but the wady was long in coming. At intervals we inquired as to its whereabouts, and were always told it was _ba'ad wahad saar_—"after half-an-hour"—and after about four half-hours, when the horses were getting somewhat weary, and our eyes ached from the glare of the sand, we entered a narrow valley, a wonderful garden of loveliness. For some time we had seen no animal life except lizards, an occasional jerboa (a pretty little miniature kangaroo), and occasional birds of prey—ravens, eagles, and griffon-vultures—flying high in the heavens towards some horse or camel, dead or dying. Here, at the very entrance of the valley, we disturbed innumerable pairs of busy little chats, among the daintiest of the bird creation (_saxicola libanotica_); and, almost equally graceful as to outline, although of a reddish-brown colour, like a robin, the little desert larks, which chattered rather than sang, as they hovered over the tangle of bulrushes and sedge-grass.
Now and then we saw a gorgeous kingfisher, blue as sapphires, turquoises—blue as the sky itself. A little later we should probably have found storks, "the father of legs" as the Arabs call them, who arrive in the early spring in immense numbers, and add to the general fairy-tale effect of this country. The stream was concealed by a thicket of verdure, bordered, on slightly higher ground, by oleanders and willows, above them a belt of white poplars and tamarisks; while the steep, sloping banks were clothed with the bushes of the graceful capers, just coming into leaf, rival, in Palestine, of our own wild rose; while everywhere chrysanthemums, ornithogalums, scented stocks, hawkweeds, and centaureas promised abundance of colour if we would but await their coming.
We clamoured for an immediate halt—where could we find so inviting a spot?—but our attendants turned a deaf ear, and pressed on, gradually mounting to higher ground, and leaving our beautiful, but probably malarious, swamp behind. We dismounted finally on a little knoll crowned with trees, the stream, now clear of foliage, and accessible for the horses, winding about its foot, and a gay little waterfall making music for us beyond. Here we lunched and rested, and then we had an illustration, characteristic of this country, of the wild-beast habits of the Arab. We are well accustomed to the fact that real solitude is here, in an ordinary way, impossible. You may scan the horizon, and see no sign of humanity for miles, but within a few minutes a picturesque Arab is beside you, asking impudently for backsheesh, insinuating that the hour is propitious for the smoking of tobacco, or offering you water or milk, according to the degree of his association with the improving influences of European civilisation. In the desert the Arab is still a gentleman, and the little group which suddenly appeared within a few feet of us—though for a dozen miles at least we had not seen so much humanity as might be implied by the presence of a single goat—offered no incivility, although they were mainly women, and therefore, as a rule, inferior in courtesy to the men. They did not even stare unduly; in fact, not half so much as we did at them. It is a curious and invariable fact that here, Arabs spring out of the earth, like London boys at an accident.
We did not feel entire confidence in our cicerone, as such; and as it was already late we dared not linger, and by three o'clock we had mounted our horses, forded the Mâlih, and, mounting the steep acclivity beyond, found ourselves on high ground, which is the watershed for the innumerable wadys which wander down to the sinuous Jordan on our left. Hence we could look back to the hoary head of the Jebel es-Shech, of Mount Hermon, and forward to the Jebel Osha in the Belka; while on the hither side a break in the hills showed where the river Jabbok, another old friend of our last ride, was working its winding way down to the Jordan. If we had but known it—such information being far from the thoughts and interests of our escort, even had they known it themselves—we ought to have turned aside some four hours later to see the caverns of Makhrûd, which are, so far as we can learn, valuable alike to the geologist, and to the student of natural history.
However, we kept on our way, on somewhat high ground, till we entered a fertile valley, tending gradually to the south-east, and which our escort saluted with joy as the Wady Faria, in which our quarters for the night were situated. Here, _ba'ad wahad sa'a_—"after one hour"—we should be at the end of our journey. Well-cultivated fields surrounded us, and even climbed the hill beyond, evidences of the existence of a population which remained invisible: not a tent, not a single human being was in sight. We descended yet deeper, the hour passed, and yet another, and we found ourselves in a wide plain, which we crossed to the eastward. "Ba'ad nus sâ'a" was now the promise—"after half-an-hour"; varied after yet another hour by "ba'ad chamseh sâ'a"—"after a quarter of an hour." Our guide had clearly gone too far west, and had struck the wady at the point farthest from our destination. The twilight fell, and it was then clearly evident that we had lost our way. The soldier had the sense to follow the stream, as likely to conduct us ultimately to our destination; but we had lost the path, and it was sorely rough riding. Darkness descended with true Oriental abruptness; moon there was none, and clouds obscured the stars. Suddenly Sadowi, who was foremost, declined to move, and the Artist's horse stumbled; the men got off, and felt the ground. We were on the edge of a precipice, the horses were already entangled in the rough brushwood, a perpendicular wall rose to our right—to turn back was impossible. The ladies dismounted, and placed themselves on a ledge of rock, out of the way of the uneasy horses. Khalil, afraid for the safety of his animals, broke forth into violent abuse of the soldier, whose curses, in return, were not loud but deep. The Doctor commanded silence, some of which he utilised for the expression of his own opinions. After much searching, in all the wrong places, some candles were produced, and lighted, upon which the rain most unexpectedly descended in torrents, and put them out. Anything, however, seemed better than inaction: two of us finally contrived, by means of holding the candles within our cloaks to shed enough light in front of us, to make some kind of progress; while the soldier with another went ahead. Khalil followed with the five horses, who picked their way with their usual cleverness, unencumbered except by saddle-bags, which now and then caught upon the bushes, and were disengaged with a jerk which would have reduced anything, but goats' hair, to rags. We contrived, somehow, to reach the top of the bank, and were much cheered to see, a mile or so ahead of us, a flickering light, and to hear the barking of dogs—always a welcome sound when one is in the dark and far from shelter. After half-an-hour of very rough scrambling we found ourselves again upon a path, which conducted us direct to the welcome light. This we found to proceed from a great fire in the midst of a Bedawy camp—a weird spectacle in such surroundings. We were challenged at various points by their scouts: _shislu?_—"Who goes there"; but, fortunately, the reply: _sahib_—"A friend"—appeared to be satisfactory. When we came into the camp we were immediately surrounded by the inquiring population, who offered no discourtesy; all the same, we considered it wise to keep an eye upon the contents of our saddle-bags. The open space was encumbered with cows and sheep, and the glare of an immense bonfire added to our bewilderment. The children and women gathered round us, and touched our clothes, though with far more gentleness than would be shown in London to, say, a group of Australian natives—and we must have seemed not less strange to our new friends. The serai was yet far, they averred, the night was dark, the road was rough; would we not remain with them? We escaped their kindly importunity with what grace we could, and left Khalil to bargain for a guide—a process quite as characteristically grasping as their would-be hospitality was characteristically liberal. Khalil offered a bishlik (6d.); they held out for four piasters (8d.); finally a compromise was effected upon a bishlik and a packet of tobacco. We may remark that when, at the end of the drama, we produced the tobacco from our stores Khalil intercepted the gift, and stipulated that it should not be bestowed till the Bedu, whose activity had been stimulated at the sight of so unwonted a luxury, had helped him to water the horses. We were soon picking our way among ruins too dark to distinguish, but which we believe to have been those of the ancient Archelais, erected by Herod Archelaus, the son of Herod the Great. Before long we were on a good path; the rain stopped, the stars came out, the Lady remounted her horse, and the spirits of the party rose again. Soon we were cheered by the steady gleam of a stationary light, and finally we clattered over a bridge and under a great gateway, and found ourselves in the court of the serai.
We received a friendly welcome from a gigantic negro, and were at once shown into a large room, with windows high up near the roof, and a door opening into the courtyard, around three sides of which the house was built; while the fourth was enclosed with a wall the height of the building, with a strong iron-clad door—everything, apparently, being arranged with a view to security. An official, said to be the lawyer or secretary of the establishment, politely vacated the guest-room on our behalf. Our saddle-bags were brought in, and, well content with shelter and the prospect of food, we prepared to make our arrangements for the night, our room being already not ill-furnished, all things considered, with a large rush mat and a lamp. Our host, however, proposed further hospitalities. We were well supplied with water, then with a charcoal stove for heating our soup, and finally with excellent and spotlessly clean bedding. The arrival of guests at so late an hour proved somewhat disturbing to the domestic animals housed in the courtyard, who crowed, and quacked, and barked, and mewed, according to their nature. Khalil came in to say good-night, the Bedu to be paid, the gigantic negro to inquire after our comfort, various black and white cats to solicit alms; but finally all was quiet, and we had not long to wait for sleep.
We were up betimes next morning, and enjoyed an early toilet beside the Fâria, not without a passing thought of pity for friends in England, and the different conditions which would make it less attractive there to rise at half-past five on the 10th of January, and bathe in a mountain stream. We were in the rich oasis of Karâwa, the Koreæ of Josephus, famous in ancient times for the finest sugar-canes known. Westward rose the great peak of the Karn Sartabeh, towering 2227 feet above us, although only 1243 feet above sea-level. This was one of the chain of peaks upon which, in old times (according to the Talmud), beacon fires were lighted at the time of the new moon, especially to proclaim the harvest and thanksgiving festivals. The top is covered with ruins, which, with much else in this practically unknown district, we hope some time to explore thoroughly.
Khalil, who had slept out all night, to take care of his horses, complained loudly of the cold; but our soldier, whom everyone here addressed as "Haj," denoting that he had made the Mecca pilgrimage, was quite cheery and unashamed, probably much relieved that we had entered no complaint of his incompetence at the serai. Khalil assured us of his own entire ability to take charge of the party; but as the infallible Baedeker says that for the journey in the west Jordan valley "an escort is indispensable," we decided to take our soldier on to Jericho. His weapons, though rust-eaten, looked quite effective, and for anything we knew his gun might really have gone off in an emergency, or as the kind friend in Jerusalem who provided part of our own armoury had advised, when a good echo made it "worth while to bang away."
The greatest interest to-day lay in the number of Tells, which might well repay more careful attention than has yet been bestowed upon them, and which indicate that, in spite of the forcing-house temperature of this district, it must have been at one time fairly well populated.
Our curiosity was aroused by a group of large birds perched on a rock at some little distance, and apparently motionless. We shouted at them, but they declined to rise. We discovered through our field-glasses that they were vultures, at least a score in number, and included a pair of young ones, no bigger than hens, and of a creamy white.
We were not long in reaching the pleasant Ain Fesail, the head of the Wady Fesail, which runs down into the Wady el Abyad, and meets the Jordan in the valley some two or three miles below. Here were wide green meadows, shady trees, and abundance of water, which, for the first time since last night's adventures, incited our horses to some return of cheerfulness. We had time to linger and to explore the adjacent ruins of Phasælis, and the animals were relieved of all their encumbrances that they might enjoy a roll in the fresh grass. The Lady rejoiced especially on behalf of Sadowi, who had been lately so much depressed that she had conceived the theory that the journey, which, owing to circumstances, had been slow, and therefore in some respects tedious, had been too much for him. She had even shown a sentimental desire to walk up hills, had not the Doctor sternly refused to remount her should she carry it into effect. Whether a whole field of grass all at once had the effect of intoxication upon a Jerusalem horse—the chance of a lifetime—or whether it suddenly dawned upon him that yonder were the hills of Judæa, and that he was, therefore, within twenty-four hours of home, we shall never know, but the steady Sadowi suddenly threw care, not to say respectability, to the winds, and started on a _fantasia_ of his own. He tore off like a war-horse at sound of the trumpet, a hunter at sight of the hounds, a saucy colt in the meadows. The other horses, stimulated by evil example, executed minor interludes; Khalil and the haj scampered right and left, and one by one brought in the truants, all but the ringleader, Sadowi, who entirely refused to be caught, and we advised Khalil to desist, in the hope that he would return of his own accord. Some time later, a shout from Khalil roused our attention, and we saw him leading in a sedate and repentant Sadowi by the halter. "He ran and ran from me like the devil himself," explained his master, with some confusion of ideas, "when all at once he became afraid, and stood and trembled." The Lady seized the occasion to express a hope that this came from no recollection of previous ill-treatment, upon which Khalil threw his arms round the creature's neck, and kissed him passionately. He kicked and swore at him a few minutes later, but the horse seemed equally indifferent to both processes.
The ruins close by are those of Phasælis, a town which Herod the Great named after his brother Phasælus, and which he presented to his sister Salome, who left it to her friend, Julia Livia, the wife of the Emperor Augustus. It stood beside the excellent highroad which we had for some time been following, and which seems to have extended the whole way from Jericho up to Cæsarea Philippi, at the foot of Mount Hermon, and near the source of the Jordan, probably bordered by a forest of palms, at one time extensively cultivated here. The town has no architectural beauty, but, like the twin town of Archelais, is delightfully situated.
It was unfortunate that we had not been advised to make the slight detour up to the foot of the hills to visit the ruins of El Aujeh, and still more that we missed the caverns of Es Sumrah, some ten miles south, described by Tristram. They are sand-stone quarries, resembling those known as Solomon's quarries in Jerusalem, and have been worked so as to resemble huge grottoes. Tristram counted fifty-four pillars still left, and gives an interesting description of the traces of the wild beasts by which they are at present tenanted, and of the bones of camels, oxen, and sheep, which had been their victims.
The ride over the wide plain was exhilarating. Some of the party could now press forward, as we were nearing a more frequented district, and even the Lady was convinced that there was no need to spare the horses. As we neared Jericho we found ourselves enveloped in a sudden dust-storm, and had to give up certain schemes for botanising in the neighbourhood. Even next morning we were warned to be off without delay, in order to secure good weather for the ride to Jerusalem.
The last scene of our drama reminded us, effectually, that we had got back to "the cab-shafts of civilisation," as represented by the Turkish Government. We found the courtyard of the Inn of the Good Samaritan crowded with soldiers, and the level ground all about with laden donkeys; while excited fellahin shouted and cursed and quarrelled, or—a sight rare and pathetic among Arabs—sat still. They were peasants from the village of Bethany, returning home with corn from Moab, and intercepted by the tax-gatherers, who saw an excellent opportunity for their business. One poor wretch who had sought to escape them by making his way round through the hills had been seized, and was now in custody in the inn-yard. The worthy host was absent, but was efficiently represented by his two little boys, who ought to have been playing marbles or whipping tops, but were, instead, keeping up the character of the establishment, and perfectly capable of dealing with the problems before them, even to catching the chickens and turkeys, and shutting them up that they might not be robbed by the soldiers, who were here to see that the peasants were effectually robbed by the tax-gatherers, while they, the little boys, in turn showed considerable experience in robbing their guests.
From the point of view of the continuity of history and the homogeneousness of humanity it is at least interesting to know that even now, with all modern improvements of robbers licensed, uniformed, and salaried, one may still go down from Jerusalem to Jericho and be quite certain of falling among thieves.
But the storm did not come. The sun was bright, the air was clear, kind friends awaited us in Jerusalem, and we were content to believe that the desert of life has many oases:
"Is not the pilgrim's toil o'erpaid By the clear rill and palmy shade!"
INDEX
Abbasides, 110
'Abd el hamīd Bey, 104, 133
Abdallah, 182, 191
Abisha, 198
Abraham, 24, 177, 202, 209, 222
Abu-dis, 5
Acacias, 22, 253, 311 (_farnesiana_, _tortilis_, _seyal_)
Academy of France, 61, 62
Acre or Akko, 247, 252, 256
Acropolis, 238, 308
Adam Smith, Professor George, 72, 202, 204, 235
Adonis, 253
Adummim, 9
Adwân, 118
Ægean, 234
Agriculture, elementary, 125, 146
— English, 227
— German, 248
— scientific, 38
Ahab, 204, 205, 215
Ahaziah, 235
Ain Es-Shech, 160, 167
Ain Es-Sultan, 14
Ain El-Mastaba, 146
Ain et Tâbigha, 287 (_see_ Bethsaida)
Ain Fesail, 341
'Ajlûn, 100, 127
_Akal_, 4, 24, 48
Al Chirnik, 66
Alexander, 199
Alexander the Great, 207
Algeria, 279
Allah, 31, 76
Almonds, 171, 253
Altar, 232, 233, 239
Ammân, 94, 101, 105, 106, 107, 113, 116, 118, 119, 124, 125, 128, 129, 131, 132, 138, 139, 140, 141, 148, 301
Ammon, 126
_Ammoperdix heyi_, 33
Amphitheatre, 308, 315, 316
Amulets, Jewish, 13
_Anastatica_, 36
Anatolia, 104
'Anazeh, 96, 100
Anemones, 203, 228, 245, 253
Angel, 318
Animals, wild, 32, 33, 255
Anthony, 13
Antiques, 196, 231, 239, 240, 324
Antoninus Martyr, 271, 276
_Apocynacea_, 35
Apostles' Fountain, 8
Apples, 204
"Apple of Sodom," 36
Apricot-tree, 107, 108, 204
Aqueduct, 8, 235, 239, 286, 297, 329
Arabia, 43, 54
— Central, 7, 40
— Roman, 69
Arab steed, 5, 6
Arabs, 17, 48, 66
— characteristics, 112, 181, 182, 213, 251, 325, 333
Arabs, customs, 122, 296, 299
— effect of climate upon, 12
— good cooking among, 114, 237
— superstitions of, 66
— their dress, 24
— their indifference to surroundings, 47
— their lack of initiation, 12
— traditions and sayings of, 71, 75, 76, 82, 127, 284, 326, 332
Arak, 311
Arbutus, 253
Archæologist, 54, 55, 62, 80, 86, 101, 230, 232
Archelais, 338, 344
Archelaus, 338
Architecture, domestic, 16
— ecclesiastical, 68, 72
— Byzantine, 83
— Greek, 205, 282
— Sassanian, 84
Arculf, 258
Ard' Abdallah, 46
Arimathea, 104
Ark of the Covenant, 188
Arnon, 108, 126
Arrow-head, 91
Artemesium, 99
_Artemisia_, 128
Artist, the, 179
Arums, 91, 98, 253
Arvanitaki, M., 60
Ascalon, 199
Ashkenazim, 305
Asia Minor, 63, 84, 103
Asparagus, 278
Asphodel, 254
_Asplenium-trichomanes_, 253
Asses, 24
Assumptionist Order, 62
Assyrians, 206
Astarte, 233, 314
Augusta, 207
Augustus, 207, 343
Azalea, 253, 306
Azedarach (Pride of India), 311
Baal, 46, 68, 207, 216, 233
Ba'albek, 108, 127
Baana, 233
Bab-el Allah, 76
Babylon, 234
Bacilli (of tetanus), 9
— (cholera), 13
Backsheesh, 2, 22, 23, 31, 169, 193, 196, 201, 213
Baedeker, 55, 80, 140
"Baedeker," 179
Balak, 46
Balaam, 46
Balm, 127
Balsams, 13, 329
_Balsamum Gileadense_, 127
Bananas, 11, 19, 306
Baptism, 12
Barak, 266
Bar Cochba, 304
Barley, 278
Barnabé d'Alsace, P., 273
Basalt, 42, 71, 311
Bashan, 128
Basilica, 106, 208
Bas-reliefs, 84
Baths, 129, 209, 297, 305, 316
Battlefields, 227, 266, 279
Bawâbet Allâh, 76
Bean, 294
Bears, 185
Bedu cemetery, 119
— characteristics of, 23, 24, 55, 56, 67, 80, 164, 177, 291, 294, 296
— _versus_ Circassians, 106, 129
— customs, 135, 166
— funeral, 121, 122
— and Hosea, 152, 153
— pipe, 5
Bedu songs, poems, and folklore, 96, 97, 118, 292
— stories of, 291, 319
— superstitions among, 66
— traditions, 101
— women's dress, 120 (_See also_ Beni Sakr, Shech Muhammed, Beni Hasan)
Beersheba, 202
Beitin, 183, 185, 187
_Belad-er-Ruah_, 228
Belka, 104-108, 111, 126, 127, 128, 155, 163, 170, 176, 334
Benedictine convent, 8, 255, 276
Beni Hasan, 135, 312
Beni Jafn, 85
Beni Sakr, 71, 83
Benjamin, 179, 183
— of Tudela, 199
Besan, 284, 306, 310, 314, 315, 316, 317, 324, 325, 326, 327, 328, 329
Bethabara, 312
Bethany, 5, 8
Bethel, 185, 194, 220
Bethlehem, 45, 160, 194
Bethsaida, 287, 301
Bethshan, 227
Beth-shean, 314, 315
Biever, Father, 55, 287, 288, 292
Bint Shech Luth, 10
Birds, 11, 17, 18, 33, 34, 43, 191, 227, 246, 254, 296, 331, 332, 341
Bir es Zet, 185, 192
Bishlik, 337
Bishopric, 54, 55, 158, 210, 304
Blackberries, 125
Blackbirds, 17, 34
Bliss, Dr, 53, 55, 57, 87
Blue (colour used as protection against Evil One), 4, 66
Boar, 32, 255
Boaz, 239
Bones of babies, 232, 239
Boniface of Ragusa, 226
Bosphorus, 63
Bougainvilea, 252, 285
Bowen, 195 (Bishop of Sierra Leone)
Box Colony, 197
Box-tree, 23
Bridge, 22, 23, 28, 31, 141, 164, 168, 170, 307
Brook Cherith, 15, 34, 175
Brothers of St John the Divine, 263, 269
Browning, 51, 78
Brünnow, Professor, 54, 85
Bulbul, 296
Bulrushes, 331
Burckhardt, 108, 109, 110, 111, 155
Burial monument, 46
Burton, Sir Richard, 87
Byzantine architecture, 83
— churches, 70, 110
— priest, 63
_Caccabis saxatilis_, 33
Cactus, 226
Cæsar, 207
Cæsarea, 199
Caifa, 247
Cairns, 90
Calcium, 10
Calf, 185
Callirhoe, 45, 306
_Calotropis procera_, 36
Camels, 12, 24, 38, 64, 66, 146, 263
— in their natural surroundings, 65
— droppings, 41, 75
Camel's hair, 4, 24, 293
Campanulas, 278
Campus Legionis, 235
Cana, 270, 271, 272 (_see_ Kefr Kennâ)
Canaan, 232
Canaanites, buildings of, 233
Candlestick, seven-branched, 187
Capernaum, 297, 298, 301
Capers, 278
Capitals, 56, 87, 119, 120, 142, 189, 211, 214, 298, 305, 316
_Capoéta_, 290
Caravans, 23, 74, 75, 76, 149
Carmel, Mount, 190, 202, 228, 237, 244, 246, 247, 248, 249, 251, 252, 255, 266
Carmelites, 249, 257
Carnelian, 212
Carobs, 204, 253
Carpets, 156
Carts, 104, 105
Casale St Giles, 186
Castal, 70, 71, 94
Castle, Arab, 278
— Arabian, 233
— Belvoir, 310
— at Castal, 95
— of Crusaders, 12, 185, 264
— of Es-Salt, 158
— mediæval, 9
— of Mshatta, 79
— of Lazarus, 8
— Saracenic, 70
Cat, 25, 32, 251
Cathedral, 57, 207, 210
Caucasus, 103, 104
Cave, 16, 101, 203, 285
Cemetery, 119, 224, 272, 274
Cenotaph, 101
Censer, 240
Centaureas, 254, 332
Central Arabia, 7, 40
Central Asia, 76
Central Palestine, 219
Chameleons, 278
Chapel (Rijal el-'Amud), 190
— of St Simon Stock, 25
Charcoal-burners, 150, 153
Chariot, 205, 314
Chariton, St, 15
Chats, 227, 331 (_saxicola libanotica_)
Cheetahs, 32
Cherith, 15, 34, 175
_Cheilanthes-fragrans_, 253
Chiff-chaffs, 227
Chlorides, 330
Chloride of calcium, 10
— of magnesium, 10
Cholera, 2, 13, 75, 76, 157, 160, 169, 212, 284
Chorazin, 301
Chosroes II., 53, 83, 84, 85, 125
Christian Brothers, 262
_Chromis paterfamilias_, 290
_Chromis simonis_, 290
Chrysanthemum, 253, 254, 332
Chub, 108
Church, Christian, 71, 158, 298
— Greek, 57, 58, 148, 195, 210
— Latin, 148, 149, 270, 271
Churches, 55, 60, 195, 202, 275
— Byzantine, 70, 110
Church of the Annunciation, 264, 265, 268
— of Mount Carmel, 257
— of Crusaders, 12, 264
— of St Elias, 275
— mediæval fortress, 189
— of Knights of St John, 181
— of St Louis, 255
— of St Margaret, 255
— of the Sovereign Mother of God, 57
— of the Holy Sepulchre, 211
_Cinnyris oseæ_, 34
Circassians, 24, 76, 90, 97, 102, 103, 105, 110, 111, 118, 125, 127, 129, 134, 137, 138, 147, 158, 277
Circle, stone, 45, 46
Circus, 129, 143, 216
Cistern, 14, 68, 81, 219, 285
Cities, 67, 235, 236, 238, 282
Civilisation, 45, 80, 110, 176
Clay, 10
_Clarias macracanthus_, 290
_Clematis cirrhosa_, 253
Clermont-Ganneau, Mons, 59, 61
Cléopas, Père, 58, 60, 61, 62
Cleopatra, 13
Climate, 12
Cock, 187
Codex, Samaritan, 198
Coffee, 111, 133, 136
Coins, 196, 212, 315
College, 196
Colocynth, 228
Colonies, 47, 83, 95, 104
Colonists (German), 12, 105, 247, 252, 259
Columns, 45, 109, 110, 119, 129, 130, 141, 142, 143, 185, 189, 205, 207, 209, 216, 298, 305, 316, 344
Commerce, 13, 159
Conder, 236
Conduits, 14, 110
Confessors, 315
Constantinople, 63
Constantine, 264
Consuls, 248, 257, 313
Convent, Benedictine, 8
— at Mount Carmel, 252, 255
— at Es-Salt, 153
— at Nablûs, 193, 201
— at Nazareth, 260
— of St Pierre, 292
— at Tiberias, 297
_Coracinus_, 290
Corinthian architecture, 56, 95, 109, 142, 143, 189, 298, 311
Corn, 329
Corn-crakes, 227
_Corvus affinis_, 33
Cotton, 195
Cranes' bills, 227
Crocuses, 91, 227, 253
Cromlech, 148
Crosses, 71, 211
Crusades, 158, 315
Crusaders, 12, 15, 104, 175, 181, 186, 207, 211, 252, 264, 303, 304
Crystal, 212
Cuckoo, 34
Cufic inscriptions, 70, 71
— coins, 196
Cultivation, 43, 45, 55, 252, 279
Curtiss, the late Professor, 223
Cyclamen, 253
Daisies, yellow, 227, 278
_Damascéna_, _capoéta_, 290
Damascus, 72, 74, 76, 84, 87, 101, 125, 177, 199, 314
Dames de Nazareth, 262
Dancing, 166, 294
Dates, 29, 39, 329
David, 222
Dead Sea, 9, 10, 17, 32, 163, 173, 216, 328
Dead Sea fruit (_calotropis procera_), 36
Dead Sea valley, 43
Deborah, 181, 232
Decapolis, 127, 128, 129, 301, 315
Decius, 315
"_Decline and Fall_," 83
Deerhound, 291
Derwish, 75, 76, 162, 317
Dhaher, 247
Dieb, 294, 301
Diocletian, 315, 329
Diseases, 221, 306
Divorce (documents of), 1
Doctor, the, 2
Documents (divorce), 13
Dog, 25, 94, 205
Dog-bane (_apocynacea_), 35
Dolmen, 45, 46, 273
Dolomite, 42
Dominican, 53, 55, 61
Donkey, 5, 8, 30, 45, 49, 107, 159
Dor, 227
Doric origin, 68
Dôtân, 218
Dothan, 218
Doura, 278
Dove, Indian turtle-(_turtur risorius_), 33
Drake, Tyrwhitt, 87
Droppings, 41, 75, 128
Druses, 255, 292, 294, 295, 296
Durand, Père Germer, 62
Dyeing-sheds, 297
Eagles, 331
Ebal, Mount, 191, 192, 194, 201
Ebenezer, 220
Edinburgh Medical Mission, 263
Egypt, Lower, 58
El Aujeh, 344
El Bireh, 179, 180, 183
Elders, 253
_El-Ghor_, 328, 329, 331
El Hammâm, 316
Eli, 188
Elijah, 17, 171, 256, 266
— Fountain of, 14, 15
— hiding-place of, 15, 16
Elisha, 185, 204, 208, 275
El Lubban, 192
Emir Nūh Bey, 103, 139
Emperor, German, 212, 297
Emperor Heraclius, 85
Endor, 228, 269
En-gannim, 224
Engedi, 36
Ephesus, 63
Ephraim, 183, 187, 208
Epiphany, 13, 292
_Epistle of an Arab Physician_, 78
Er-Rashid, 88
Eryngo, 278
Escort, 5, 6, 95, 118, 138, 340
Esdraelon, 227, 228, 266
Es-Salt, 50, 145, 153, 154, 155, 156, 157, 158, 159
Essenes, 16
Es Sumrah, 344
Et Tâbigha, 284, 297
Et-tayyibeh, 187
Eusebius, 95, 235
Evil One, 4, 66
Excavation, 236, 238, 297, 316
— Austrian, 231
— German, 230, 231
Excavations, 215, 227
Ezekiel, 47
Ezra, 198
Ez-Zerka 126
Falcon, Lanner-, 99
_Farnesiana_, 22
Fauna, 11
_Felis caligata_, 32
_Felis-mas_, 253
Fellahin, 23, 24, 49, 80, 106, 119, 135, 140, 292, 293
Fennel, 278
Feral cat, 25
Fergusson, 83
Ferhad, 84
Ferns, 253
_Ficus sycomorus_, 14 (mulberry fig)
Figs, 17, 29, 39, 287
Fig-tree, 160, 187
Firearms, 213
Fish, 108, 286, 289, 290
Flax, 329
Flint arrow-head, 91
Flintlock, 213
Flora, 11, 12, 35, 43, 91, 98, 99, 203, 227, 228, 245, 252, 253, 273, 278, 288
Folklore, 186, 292
Fords, 21
Forests, 127, 149
Fortress, 158, 209, 211, 217, 227, 234, 238, 239, 316, 327
Forts, Roman, 68, 83, 94
Forum, 110, 129, 141, 142, 209, 216, 282
Fountain, Apostles', 8
— Elijah's, 14, 15
Foxes, 32 (_canis niloticus_, _canis variegatus_)
Franciscans, 61, 195, 226, 260, 262, 264, 265, 268, 270, 272, 275, 276, 289, 291, 297
Francolin, 33
Frenjy, the, 196, 201, 259, 280
Fruit, 125, 156, 170, 204, 228
Fruit, Dead Sea (_calotropis procera_), 36
Fulke, King, 310
Funeral, 121
Gabinius, 207
Gadara, 307, 308
Galingale, 253
Galilee, 126, 167, 220, 227, 228, 269, 281, 286
Gardens, 20, 204, 205, 217, 224, 225, 226, 252, 264, 288
Gazelle, 12, 32, 90, 93, 98, 128, 292
Genista, 253
Gennesaret, plain of, 285
Geraniums, 91, 254
Gerasimos, Patriarch, 60
Gerizim, Mount, 191, 192, 194, 202
— Temple of, 202
Germans, 215, 248
Gethsemane, Garden of, 8, 284
Ghassanides, 85, 129
Gibbon, 83
Gideon, 125, 266
Gilboa, 228, 237
Gilead, 127, 128, 145, 265, 315, 328
Giovanni of Frascati, Brother, 256
Gladioli, 253
Goats, 25, 56, 123
Goat's hair, 4, 293
Good Samaritan, Khan of, 6, 9, 176, 345
Gorge of brook Cherith, 15, 16, 17, 18, 146, 147, 159
Gothic cathedral, 207
Government, the, 195
Grakle, 17, 34
Grapes, 156, 158
Gravel limestone, 42
Graves, 119, 152, 221 (_see also_ Wely)
Great Plain, 272
Greeks, 53, 199, 249, 260, 262
Greenstone, 42
Griffon-vulture, 99, 331
Grottoes, 101, 344
Grouse, sand, 33
Grove, Sir George, 198
Guelder-roses, 253
Guide, 51, 214, 323, 324, 326, 327
Guy de Lusignan, King, 279
Hadramat, 90
Haifa, 72, 244, 246, 247, 248, 252, 255, 256, 258, 259
Haj, 75, 99, 100, 175, 340, 342
_Haji_, 172
_Haj_ road, 74
Hannah, 188
_Haram_, 28
Haroun-er-Raschid, 233
Harvest, 48
Haurân, 7, 85, 100, 111, 135
Hawkweeds, 332
Hawthorns, 253
Hayil, 89
Hebrides, Outer, 186, 295
Hebron, 177, 194, 222, 270, 303
Heesh, 157
Hêhl, 133, 136
Helena, 271, 275
Henna, 4
Heraclius, Emperor, 85
Herbs, balsamic, 278
Hermitages, 15, 18, 285
Hermon, 188, 191, 280, 281, 284, 306, 334
Herod, 13, 126, 207, 216, 281, 282, 285, 338, 343
— palace of, 14
Heshbon, 45, 47
Hierapolis, 84
High places, 68
Highwaymen, 49
Hill of the Cock (_Jebel ed deek_), 187
Hill—Tel'at ed-Dam, 9
Hills, 31, 43, 128, 147, 163, 191, 228, 265, 269, 310, 328
Hippodrome, 207, 209, 216, 316
"_Historical Geography_," 202, 204
Holofernes, 315
Hornstone, 253
Horses, 4, 6, 24
Hosea, 152, 223
Hospice, Franciscan, 283
— German Catholic Palæstina Verein, 287, 289, 291
— at Haifa, 248, 249
— of the Knights of St John, 181
— Nazareth, 261, 263
Hospital, Austrian, 269
— at Carmel, 256
— at Haifa, 248
— Nazareth, 263
— of the Templars, 195
— at Tiberias, 283, 303, 323
Hospitality, 51, 119, 131, 153, 156, 171, 172, 176, 255, 260, 287
Hospitallers, 279
Hotels, 20, 260, 283
Hûsh or Hûshi, 104
Hyacinths, 253
Hyæna, 12, 32, 151, 255
Hyrcanus, 54, 202, 207
Hypnotic suggestion, 221
Ibex, 32
Ibn Rashid, 89
Idol, 239
Ignatius, 276
Incense, Israelitish altar of, 233
Indian turtle-dove, 33 (_turtur risorius_)
Inn of the Apostles' Fountain, 8
— of the Good Samaritan, 9, 176
Inscription, 57, 70, 71, 275
Institute of British Architects, 84
Institutions, 186, 263
Invocation, 231
Ionic capitals, 142
Irises, 253
Isaac, 74, 202
Isaiah, 208
Ishmaelites, 127
Israel, 46, 189
Israelites, 54, 223, 224, 235
Issachar, 224
"Italian, the," 229, 237, 238
_Itineraries_, 95
Jabbok, 108, 116, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 146, 312, 334
Jachin, 239
Jackals, 11, 32, 151, 255
Jacob, 124, 125, 185, 192
Jael, 245
Jaffa, 45, 202, 270
Jahwe, 233
Jalûd, 310, 325
Jar, 85, 240, 271
Jaulân, 85, 104
Jeba, 217
Jebel es-Shech, 306, 334
Jebel Osha, 152, 173, 334
Jehonadab, 204
Jehu, 204, 216
Jenin, 203, 217, 224, 226, 227
Jerash, 105, 106, 118, 139, 145, 148, 210, 216, 301
Jerboa, 34, 331
Jeremiah, 47, 189
Jericho of crusading times, 14
Jericho, 8, 11, 13, 19, 20, 50, 127, 164, 175, 312, 344
— plain of, 12, 21
— road to, 5, 6
— Roman, 13, 14
Jericho-roses, 35 (_anastatica_)
Jeroboam, 185, 188
Jerome, St, 189, 208, 235, 276, 304
Jerusalem, 5, 11, 45, 102, 122, 175, 183, 194, 197, 303, 304
Jessamine, 252
Jezebel, 215, 216
Jezreel, 227, 310
Jifna, 185, 186, 192
Jisr el Mujamia, 307
Job or Joab, 123
Jochanan, Bishop, 317
John the Baptist, 171, 202, 208, 216
Jonah, 270
Jonquils, 245, 253
Jordan, 11, 13, 31, 32, 45, 56, 124, 126, 127, 145, 165, 167, 171, 220, 307, 308, 325, 329
— East, 90, 103, 120, 128, 257, 294, 312
— valley, 9, 21, 32, 35, 36, 265
Joseph, St, 264
Joseph, 192, 219
Josephus, 36, 207, 274, 285, 290, 303, 315
Joshua, 54, 188, 199, 314
Josiah, 235
Jotham, 223
Judah, 235
Judæa, 11, 12, 163, 328
Jujube-tree 21, 23, 37, 164 (_zizyphus lotus_)
— _zizyphus spina Christi_, 21
Julia Livia, 343
Juniper, 253
Justinian, 86, 195, 202
Kafr Sabt, 279
Kaimmakâm, 155
Kamnimotsk or Kakupschi, 103
Karâwa, 340
Karn Hattîn, 279
Karn Sartabeh, 340
Keats, 64
Keble, 286
Kedron, valley of, 8, 123
_Keffeeye_, 4
Kefr Kennâ, spring of, 270
Kerak, 53, 56, 169
Kerosene, 196, 197
Khalil, 30
Khan, 160, 180, 190, 224, 225, 278, 287, 300, 311
Khan of the Good Samaritan, 6, 9
Khans, Saracenic, 68
Kings, Three, 292, 294
Kingfisher, 332
Kinnerôt, 280
Kinnor (a lute), 280
Kirbet el-Herri, 68
Kishon, 235, 244, 245, 259
Klein, 71
Knights of St John, 181, 211
Kôkab el-Hawa, 310
Koziba, 16
Kubâtîyeh, 220, 222
Kumbaz, 166, 172
Lady, the, 2
Lagos, Ptolemy, 206
Lake of Galilee, 167, 284, 286, 289
Lagrange, Père, 62
"_Land and the Book_," 82
Language, 25, 51
Lanner-falcon, 99
Lapis-lazuli, 212
Larks, 99, 227, 331
Latin Patriarch, 51
Latins, 12, 52, 53, 199, 249, 260
Law, 196, 198
Lazarus, Castle of, 8
Lebanon, 255
Leeches, 8
Lehaf, 137, 312
Lejjun or Legio, 235, 236, 237, 242
Lemons, 3, 17, 252
Lepers, 195, 206, 226
Levi, 200
Libations, 240
Lightfoot, 274
Limestone, 10, 42, 43, 203, 253, 298
Linen, 329
Lintel, 56, 189
Lions, 32
Lizard, 43, 93, 98, 278, 331
Looms, 196
Lot, Shech, 10
Louis, St, 255, 271
Lower Egypt, 58
Lubban, 190, 192
Lupin, 254
Lusignan, King Guy de, 279
Lychnis, 254
Maccabees, 266
Machærus, 216
Madaba, 32, 38, 46, 49, 50, 51, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 60, 62, 95, 102, 138, 139, 148, 287, 291
Magdala, 285, 286, 301
Magnesium, 9
Maiden-hair, 253, 260
Maimonides, 304
Maize, 278
"Majnoon," 162
Makhrûd, 334
_Maktoub_, 37
Mâlih, 334
Manasseh, 198, 232, 235
Mandrakes, 203, 253
Manuscripts, 200
Map, mosaic, of Madaba, 57, 58, 59, 60, 62, 63
Marble, 56, 95, 264, 298
Mares, 25, 27, 291
Margaret of Provence, 271
Margaret, St, 255
Mariamne, 216
Marl, 21
Marriage, 13, 52
Martyrs, 189, 190
Masada, 36
Mastaba, 146
Maundeville, Sir John, 178, 247, 258, 277
Maundrell, Henry, 194
Mausoleum, 158
Mezeba, 239
Meadow of Sinking In (_Merj-el-Gharak_), 218
Measurement (by time), 31
Mecca, 72, 74, 75, 172
Medal, 196
Mediterranean, 32, 202, 204, 280
Megiddo, 227, 232, 235, 236, 259
Meidân, 76
Mejdel, 286
_Melissa officinalis_, 128
_Mémoire_, by Mons. Clermont-Ganneau, 59
Menhirs, 239
_Merj-el-Gharak_, 218
Mesha, 54
Meshalcha, Bedu, 312, 325
Michaud, 265, 271
Midianites, 125, 219
Milestones, 45
Mill, 71, 124, 148, 235, 297
Minaret, 226, 246, 281
Minyeh, Khan, 287, 300
Mishna, 304
Missionaries, 186, 249, 289
Missions, Scottish and American, 303
— medical, 249, 263, 287
— _Jerusalem and the East_, 249
Moab, 11, 22, 43, 47, 116, 117, 126, 128, 173, 202, 208
Moabite sparrow, 34
Moabite stone, 68, 71
Moabites, 54
Monastery, 15, 16, 85, 256
Monks, Greek, 16, 59
Monogamy, 56
Monograph, by Père Séjourné, 53
— by Schumacher, 55, 140
— by Père Lagrange and Père Cléopas
Mongols, 158
Monolith, 189, 214
Monument, burial, 46, 72, 130
"_Le Mont Thabor: Notices Historiques et Descriptives_," 273
Morality, 56
Moravians, German, 195
Mosaics, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 62, 64, 271, 275
Moses, 42, 44, 46, 199, 222
Mosque, 70, 110, 172, 189, 195, 207, 210, 255
Mshatta, or Mashita, or Meshita, 71, 79, 80, 84, 93, 98, 128
Mount Ebal, 191, 192, 194, 201
Mount Gerizim, 191, 192, 194, 202
— Gilboa, 228, 237
— of Moab, 202
— Nebo, 42, 44, 45
— of Olives, 8, 164
— of Precipitation, 269
— Scopas, 179
Mountain of the Shech, 306
Mountains of Es-Salt, 157
— Quarantana, 15
Mourner, 121
Muchtar, 106, 111
Mudir, 131, 132, 133, 134, 135, 136, 139, 310, 311, 313, 323, 324
Mulberry fig, 14
Mulberry-trees, 222
Mujedda, 236
_Mukaris_, 3
Muquṭṭa, 235
_Muscari_, 35
Museum, 257
Music, 96, 295
Mutesarrif, 135
Mykenæan pottery, 234
Myrrh, 127
Myrtle, 253
Naaman, 204
Nabateans, 54
Nablûs, 179, 183, 190, 191, 193, 194, 195, 197, 199, 202, 217, 219, 312
Nahallal, 272
Nain, 228, 269
Napoleon, 256
Narghile, 30
Nathaniel, 272
Nawa, 106
Naumachia, 143
Nazareth, 228, 258, 260, 261, 262, 266
_Nebk_, 21
Nebo, Mount, 42, 44, 45
Negro, 20, 171, 338, 339
Nets, 289
Nightingale, 34
Nile, 84, 125, 246
Nimr, 96, 118
_Notitia_, Roman, 69, 95
Notre Dame d'Amerique, 260
Nysa, 315
Oaks, 11, 105, 120, 149, 150, 157, 204, 222, 223, 253, 259
Obadiah, 208
Odeum, 109
Officials, 24, 248
Oleander, 23, 35, 123, 126, 286, 306, 332
Oliphant, Hans, 248
Oliphant, Laurence, 244
Olives, 148, 187, 204
Olives, Mount of, 8
Omar, 312
Omri, 54, 206
Orabs, 17
Orange, 19, 20, 127, 252
Orchis, 253
Origen, 276
Ornithogalums, 332
Orphanage of Dames de Nazareth, 262
— English, 263
— Salesian Fathers, 260
_Oshr_, 36
Oxen, 25, 104
Palace, 86, 87, 88, 142, 215
Palace of Herod, 14, 207, 282
Palestine, 58, 63, 219
— Eastern, 126, 129
— Exploration Fund, 62, 71, 87
Palmer, Paul, 62
Palms, 11, 13, 127, 181, 224, 226, 246, 252, 281, 284, 306
Panther, 255
Pariah dog, 25
Partridge, 33
— (Hey's) _ammoperdix heyi_, 33
— (Greek) _caccabis saxatilis_, 33
Pasha, the, 95
— of Acre, 217, 256
— of Damascus, 156
Passover, The, 198, 200
Patriarch, Gerasimos, 60
— Greek, 57, 59, 60, 61, 62
— Latin, 51, 155
Patriarchate in Jerusalem, 193, 195
Paul, St, 268
Paula, 271, 276
Peacock, Thomas Love, 112
Pears, 204
Pella, 306, 312, 326
Pentateuch, 199
Peræa, 7, 125, 126
Periwinkle, 35, 253
Père Cléopas, 58, 60, 61, 62
Père Germer Durand, 62
Père Séjourné, 53, 55, 57
Père Vincent, 61
Persian art, 81
Persian Gulf, 76
— king, 83
Personage, the Royal, 2, 40
Peter, St, 276
Phasælis, 342, 343
Philadelphia, 116
Phinehas, 198
Phœnicians, 246
Piasters, 31, 50, 52, 157, 337
Piedmontese, 51
Pigeons, 33
— rock, 18
Pilasters, 87, 95
Pilgrims, 13, 14, 74, 75, 76, 77, 78, 256, 263, 298
Pillar, 120, 239
Pines, 11, 105, 150
Pipes, native, 5, 40
Pistachios, 171
Plague, 75
Plain of Esdraelon or Jezreel, 227, 228
— of Sharon, 228
— of Gennesaret, 285
— of El-Makhna, 191
Plateau, 64, 126
— of Ard 'Abdallah, 46
— of Ard el Hammâ, 280
Plough, 45, 119, 191, 221, 227
Plovers, 227
Poem, 66
Poet, 96, 118
Polygamy, 56
Pomegranate, 253
Pompey, 207, 315
Pool, 14, 55, 205
Poor Clares, 260
Poplars, 223, 332
Population, 23, 107, 155, 195, 249
Potteries, 297
Pottery, 234
Presbytery, 51, 53, 148, 272
Pride of India, 311
Priest, high, 200
— Byzantine, 63
— Greek, 58, 180
— parish, 51, 55, 56, 155, 157
Priests, 51, 52
"_Primitive Semitic Religion To-Day_," 223
Professor, the, 2
Prophet, the, 74, 125, 189
Prophets, Jewish, 190, 256
Propylæa, 141, 142
Proscenium, 142
Psalms, 116, 117
_Pseudo-platanus_, 14
Ptolomais, 247
Ptolemy Lagos, 207
Ptolemy Philadelphus, 116
Pudding-stone, 42
Quakers, 186
Quarantana mountain, 15
Quarantine, 2, 31, 160, 165, 169
_Quercus ægilops_, 149
Rab Jochanan Ben Sakai, 304
Rabbath Ammân, 116
Rabbi Akiba, 304
— Meîr, 304
Rags, 220, 228
Rahab, 15
Rahwân, 5, 27
Railway, 72, 73, 88, 99, 108, 211, 229, 236, 246, 249, 307, 308
Raisins, 29, 156, 158
Rakkath, 282
Ramah, 179
Ramleh, 104, 189
Ranunculus, 254
Rat, 125
Ravens, 17, 331
Raven, wedge-tailed (_corvus affinis_), 33
Rebecca, 185
Rechab, 205
_Recueil d'Archéologie Orientale_, 59
Red Sea, 76
Reservoirs, 55, 69, 185, 316
"Rischân" or "Rischi," 292
Road, 44, 67, 74, 83, 95, 118, 141, 183, 186
Robinson, 235
Rocks, 42, 43, 253
Rock garden, 252
— rose, 253
— pigeons, 18
Rolls of the Law, 196
Roman Catholics, 12, 196
— colonies, 83, 99
— Arabia, 69
— forts, 68, 83, 94
— forum, 110
— marches, 85
— _Notitia_, 69
— province, 86
— remains, 70, 119, 235, 297, 308, 316
— road, 44, 67, 83, 95, 118, 125, 141, 144
— soldiers, 47
— tiles, 87
— toparchies, 186
Rooks, 191, 227
Roots, 149
Rosaries, 157
Rose bushes, 225, 288
Roses, Jericho-(_anastatica_), 36
Rotunda, 141, 142
Ruins, 53, 54, 67, 68, 71, 106, 108, 109, 140, 141, 148, 181, 186, 207, 247, 273, 275, 278, 297, 298, 338, 340
Sa'b-el-Meshak, 6
Sacrifice, 91, 250, 319
Sadowi, 27, 28, 161, 162, 182, 258, 325, 335, 342, 343
Sæwulf, 302
_Safsaf_, 22
Saint, 221, 223, 318
Saint Chariton, 15
— Moslem, 120, 189
— Old Testament, 220
Saladdin, 158
Salesians, 260, 262
Salisbury, Bishop of (1192), 265
Sallah ed-din, 279, 287, 310, 315
Salome, 343
Salt, 10, 14, 21
_Saltana_, 156
Samaria, 191, 203, 204, 206, 219, 228, 328
Samaritan, Good, Khan of, 6, 9, 176, 345
Samuel, 188
Samovar, 136, 139
Samaritans, 198, 199, 201, 226
Sanatorium, 248
Sand-grouse, 33
Sand-stone, 42, 344
Sanhedrin, 304
Sandwort, 43
Sanīye, 135
Sânûr, 217
Sâra, 158
Saracens, 85
Saracenic khans, 68
Sarcophagi, 71, 101, 110, 119, 216, 270, 308
Sargon, 315
— bas-reliefs, 84
Sassanian dynasty, 84
Saul, 266, 314
_Saxicola libanotica_, 331
Scarabs, 234
Schools, 195, 196, 226, 262, 263, 305
Schumacher, 55, 56, 72, 90, 96, 100, 104, 135, 140, 249, 257, 312
Scopas, Mount, 179
Scrolls of the Law, 198
Sculpture, 70, 71, 81, 142, 189, 211, 214, 316
Scythopolis, 315
Sea-birds, 246
Sea, Dead, 9, 10, 17, 32
Seal, 196, 234, 240
Sebaste, 203, 205, 207, 210, 211, 213, 215
Sect, esoteric, 16
Sedge-grass, 331
Seetzen, 111
Séjourné, Père, 53, 55, 57
Selim Effendi Khuri, 252
Sellin, Doctor, 233
Semûniyeh, 259
Sepulchre, Holy, 195
_Serai_, 224, 313, 318, 327, 337, 338
Sesame, 278
Settlements, Greek, 12
— Russian, 12
— Samaritan, 196, 197
_Seyal_, 22
Sharon, 104, 228, 255
Shech, 51, 56, 71, 74, 120, 209, 211, 291, 300, 319, 330
Shech Abdallah, 46
Shech Goblan, 118
Shech Lot, 10
Shech Shadli, 313
Shech Muhammed, 100
Shechem, 194, 219
Shelley, 93
Shiloh, 188, 189, 194
Shiraz, 84
Shireen, 84
Shop, curiosity, 9
Shrine, 223
Shunem, 269
_Sidr_, 21
_Silenæ_, 35
Simon Stock, St, 257
Singing, 96, 97, 99, 166
Sisera, 245
Sisters of Charity, 263
— of St Joseph, 263
— of the Rosary, 155
Skylarks, 227
Smith, Prof. G. A., 72, 202, 204, 235
Smyrna, 63
Snails, land-, 99
Soap, 195
Soapwort, 43
Sodom, apple of, 36
Sœurs de Charité, 195
_Solanum sanctum_, 36
Soldiers, Circassian, 90, 135
— Egyptian, 12
— Jewish, 285
— Roman, 47
Solomon, 188, 235, 239
Sparrows, 11, 34, 227
Sportsmen, 2
Spring, 158, 181, 185, 190, 205, 270, 279
Springs, hot, 45, 297, 308
Squills, 35, 253
Stallions, 6, 24
Star of Bethlehem, 253
Starlings, 11, 227
Statues, 142
Stocks, 254, 332
Stones, 220, 318
Stone of Abraham, 177
Stone circle, 45, 46, 185
Stone, Moabite, 54, 68, 71
Storks, 332
Sugar-cane, 329
Suggestion, hypnotic, 221
"Sultana," 156
Sultan's Spring, 14, 15
Sumach, 156
Sun-bird, _cinnyris oseæ_, 34, 254
Superstitions, 66, 77, 298
Swallows, 17, 93, 125, 316
Sycaminium, 247
Sycomore, 14
Synagogue, 200, 298, 303
Syrians, 206
Syria, 14, 30, 80, 105, 125, 246, 250
Szaltese, 156
Taanak, 227, 229, 232, 233, 235, 236
Tabor, 224, 229, 237, 266, 274, 277
Talmud, 304, 340
Tamarisk, 23, 34, 253, 332
Tank, 69, 70
Tanneries, 297
Tarafah, 66
Tarbush, 24, 293, 318
Taricheæ, 286 (_see_ Magdala)
Tax, road, 45
— war, 50
— Tel'at ed-Dam, 9
Taxes, general, 106, 135
— horse, 49
Tell, 203, 214, 229, 232, 301, 316, 341
— Hûm, 297
— el Matâba, 45
— el-Mutesellim, 235, 236, 237, 238
Templars, 195, 259, 279
Temple, 68, 129, 141, 142, 185, 199, 202, 207, 209, 239, 314
Temptation, 15
Terebinth, 150, 157, 219, 223
Teskerys (local passports), 165, 193
Tetanus, 9
Tetrapylon, 141, 142
_Tfaddalu_, 111
Theatre, 109, 129, 141, 142, 143, 207, 209, 235
Thermæ, 106, 110
Thieves, 5
Thistles, 23
Thompson, 82
Thorns, 21, 23, 150
Thothmes III., 314
Three Kings, the, 292, 294
Tiberias, 13, 259, 277, 280, 281, 282, 283, 284, 323
Tiglath-pileser, 315
Tithes, 200
Tobacco, 5, 30, 40, 41, 55, 157, 294, 338
Tomb of 'Abdallah, 46
— of Abdel Azziz en-Nimr Shech Adwân, 118, 119
— of Abu Obeidah Ibn el Jerrâh, 312
— of Jonah, 270
— of Joseph, 192
Tombs, 110, 119, 158, 187, 192, 239, 285, 304, 317, 318
_Tombak_, 30
_Tortilis_, 22
Tortoises, 278
Town of Nablûs (_see_ Nablûs)
— of ancient Jericho, 15
Towns in ruins, 67, 68, 106, 141, 301
Traditions, 298
Tradition, _re_ church at el Bireh, 181
— _re_ Elijah's Fountain, 14
— _re_ the horse of Solomon, 299
— _re_ St John Baptist, 208
— _re_ ten lepers, 226
— _re_ the Miracle of turning Water into Wine, 270
— _re_ Nathaniel, 272
— _re_ Sermon on the Mount, 279
— _re_ workshop of St Joseph, 264
Trajan, 129
Transfiguration, the, 273, 275
Tree (sacred), 190, 220, 221, 222, 223, 227
Trees, 21, 22, 23, 149, 150, 204, 253, 259, 306, 311
Tristram, 17, 36, 42, 67, 70, 71, 79, 80, 94, 289, 344
Troughs, stone, 119
_Turtur risorius_, 33
Turban, 293
Turcomans, 24, 146
Turtle-dove, Indian, 33 (_turtur risorius_)
Um el-Kuseir, 67, 68
Um er-Resâs, 68
Um Weleed, 67, 68
Umshita, 79
University, 303
Valerian, 254
Valley, Dead Sea, 43
— Jezreel, 310
— Jordan, 9, 36
— Kedron, 8
— of the Lubban, 190
— of Sa'b-el-Meshak, 6
Vegetation, tropical, 11, 306
Vespasian, 329
Village of Abu-dis, 5
— of Ammân (_see_ Ammân)
— of Bir es Zet, 185
— of Et-tayyibeh, 187
— of Gath-Hepher, 270
— of Jenin, 203, 217, 224, 227
— of Jerash, 130, 131
— of Jifna, 185, 186
— of Kafr Sabt, 279
— of Kubâtîyeh, 220, 222
— of Madaba, 53
— of Mastaba, 146
— of Er-Rummâna, 146
— of Sebaste, 213
— of Seilun, 188
— of Yâfâ, 260
Villages of Bedu, 67
— of Circassians, 106
Vincent, Père, 61
Vineyard, 252
Vogüe, M. de, 211
Vulture, 99, 331, 341
Wadi Salihi, 147
Wady, 122, 334
— el Abyad, 341
— Faria, 334, 335, 339
— Fesail, 341
— el-Hamman, 119
— Heshban, 36, 47
— el-Hor, 149
— Kelt, 15
— Mâlih, 334
— el-Mastaba, 146
— Osha, 157
— er-Rumemin, 148
— er-Rumman, 122
— Shaib, 159 (_see also_ 160)
— Umm Rabi, 146
Wages, 23
Warren, Sir Charles, 71
Water, 14, 16, 55, 74, 108, 122, 126, 144, 168, 194
— of Dead Sea, 9
— Roman system, 14, 69
— bottles, 44
Waterfall, 147, 297, 332
Water-pipe, 30, 112, 114, 330
Watka, 118, 119
Weapons, 25, 55
Wedge-tailed raven (_corvus affinis_), 33
Well of Jacob, 192, 202
Well of Nazareth, 265
— of Tiberias, 285
Welys, 120, 121, 152, 160, 202, 221, 317, 318
Willibald, 271, 276
Willow, 22, 332 (_safsaf_)
Wine, 252, 271, 272, 294, 311
Wolf, 33
Women, 205
Wool, 195
Wordsworth, 20, 116, 323
Wormwood, 99 (_artemesium_)
Wren, long-tailed, 254 (_drymæca gracilis_)
Yafa, 260
Yakubi, 141
Yakut, 140
Yarmuk, 126, 127, 307
Yemen, 85
Yujûz, 119
Zadam, 71
_Zakkum_, 23
Zebedee, 260
Zebîb, 68
Ziza, 69, 71
_Zizyphus lotus_, 21, 23, 164
_Zizyphus spina Christi_, 21
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End of Project Gutenberg's In a Syrian Saddle, by Ada Goodrich-Freer