Part 1
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IMPRESSIONS OF SPAIN.
IMPRESSIONS OF SPAIN.
BY
ALBERT F. CALVERT, F.R.G.S.
AUTHOR OF
“_The Discovery of Australia_,” “_The Exploration of Australia_,” “_My Fourth Tour in Western Australia_,” “_The Political Value of our Colonies_,” _etc._, _etc._
LONDON:
GEORGE PHILIP & SON, LIMITED, 32, FLEET STREET.
LIVERPOOL:
PHILIP, SON & NEPHEW, 45-51, SOUTH CASTLE STREET.
_All rights reserved._
1903.
TO
SEÑOR DON SEBASTIAN BARRIS.
MY DEAR BÁRRIS,
As the pleasure and instruction I have derived from my different visits to Spain have been contributed to so largely by your unfailing kindness and invaluable counsel, so the culminating pleasure of this modest attempt to set down my impressions of your fair country lies in the privilege of inscribing the result to you. In you I shall ever feel that I have a firm and wise friend and lenient critic, and I beg you to enhance the obligation of friendship by accepting this dedication with the assurance of my regard and esteem.
ALBERT F. CALVERT.
“ROYSTON,”
SWISS COTTAGE, N.W.
PREFACE.
There is a character in current drama who devoted his whole life to the writing of a book. He called it a “pamphlet,” because he had intended it to be a pamphlet when he started on his task, but in its completed state the work filled three mighty folio volumes. Although the present volume has not attained such gargantuan proportions, it is considerably longer than I had thought to make it. It is not put forward as an exhaustive or profound study of Spain and the Spaniards, but as a simple record of impressions of people I have met and places I have visited during a series of many journeyings in different parts of that greatly interesting and much misunderstood country. These impressions were meant, in the beginning, to form a small collection of sketches and appreciations; and, although the number has increased beyond the limits of my original intentions, the design and scope of the book have not been revised or amplified. The result of this desultory system of working is a string of disconnected chapters--the first fruits of fugitive note-book jottings collected over a period of several years--rather than a concentrated and comprehensive survey of the subject as a whole.
But the system was also fraught with an unforeseen technical difficulty, as I discovered when I came to arrange my illustrations. The photographs that I acquired--sometimes singly and sometimes in batches--during my frequent visits to Spain, increased out of all proportion to the “increasing purpose” of my manuscript, and in the end I was confronted with the alternative options of leaving out a great many of my most recent and best pictures of Granada and the Alhambra, or of publishing them _en masse_ at the back of the volume.
The fact that I am even now engaged in gathering material and making notes for a work upon the Alhambra, which I hope shortly to publish, tempted me to hold these surplus illustrations in reserve. But I have hopes that the fragmentary nature of my material, and, in many cases, lack of style and finish in its transcription, may be atoned for by the variety and charm of the pictorial side of the book; and, with this desideratum in my mind, I decided to reproduce the overflow pictures in the form of an appendix.
To the many friends in Spain who have assisted me in my work, with counsel, information, practical aid, and inexhaustible hospitality, and particularly to Messrs. HAUSER and MENET, Messrs. LAURENT and CO., and Señor GARZON, the photographic artists who have supplied me with pictures beyond those I took myself, and favoured me with permission to reproduce them, I wish to tender my sincere and grateful thanks.
It may be that my personal relations with the Spanish people have been more fortunate than that of some other authors, whose books on Spain I have seen; but in a somewhat wide experience of countries and men, I have never met their equals in courtesy and true consideration to the stranger within their gates. I have encountered all sorts and conditions of men in the sunny South, the black North, and the thriving East of the kingdom, and from each and every one I have received nothing but kindness and good-will. I have written enthusiastically in the following pages about the Spaniards, for in every Spaniard I have met I feel that I have a friend.
A. F. C.
AUTHORS’ CLUB,
LONDON, S.W.,
NOVEMBER, 1903.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
ALFONSO XIII. _Frontispiece_
PORTRAITS AND PICTURES.
PAGE
THE FAMILY OF CHARLES V., BY GOYA 242
THE VELASQUEZ GALLERY IN THE MUSEUM, MADRID 243
THE DIVINE FAMILY, BY MURILLO 246
BARTOLOME ESTEBAN, BY MURILLO 247
THE DIVINE FAMILY, BY MURILLO 249
THE DIVINE SHEPHERD, BY MURILLO 250
A CONCEPTION, BY MURILLO 251
THE KING OF SPAIN--1886, 1891, 1892, 1893, 1895, 1896, 1898, 1901, 1902 255
THE KING AND HIS MOTHER 257
S. M. EL REY ALFONSO XIII. 259
S. A. INFANTA MARIA TERESA 262
S. A. LA PRINCESA DE ASTURIAS 263
S. A. R. EL INFANTE DON CARLOS 264
ANTONIO FUENTES 224
LUIS MAZZANTINI AND CUADRILLA 224
GUERRITA. _Bandillero_ 224
THE SURRENDER OF GRANADA BY BOABDIL TO FERDINAND AND ISABELLA, 1492 Appendix
VIEWS.
_ALICANTE._
ELCHE (WOMEN WASHING) 1
ELCHE 5
THE ESPLANADE 83
ESPLANADE AND WHARF 84
THE “MARTYR’S PROMENADE” 85, 86
“ “ (HIGH ROAD) 87
VIEW OF ELCHE 88
ENTRANCE TO THE STATION, ELCHE 91
_MADRID._
IN OLD MADRID 10
ROYAL PALACE 11
A CORNER IN THE ROYAL PALACE 12
THE THRONE ROOM, ROYAL PALACE 13
THE RIVER MANZANARES 15
AVENUE OF SAN GERONIMO AND PARLIAMENT HOUSE 19
THE “PUERTA DEL SOL,” FROM THE HOTEL DE PARIS 23
THE BANK OF SPAIN 27
THE COUNSELLOR OF THE VILLAGE 31
AN ORANGE SELLER 31
A DANCER 31
FULL LIST OF LOTTERY RESULTS 31
SKETCHES IN SPAIN 35
A MILK STALL 39
THE BULL RING 41
_EL ESCORIAL._
ESCORIAL MONASTERY, THE EVANGELIST’S COURT 44
GENERAL VIEW OF THE MONASTERY 45
THE ESCORIAL LIBRARY 47
MASS BOOK OF PHILIP II., THE ESCORIAL LIBRARY 48
THE ROYAL PALACE, ARANJUEZ 49
_BARCELONA._
GENERAL VIEW 51
A NATIVE OF CATALONIA 53
THE CASCADE 55
SEÑOR BÁRRIS’S HOUSE 57
SNAPSHOT IN SEÑOR BÁRRIS’S GARDEN 59
“RAMBLA DE LAS FLORES” 61
THE COLON (COLUMBUS) PROMENADE 65
THE COLUMBUS COLUMN 67
PLAZA DEL REY 68
ARAGON STREET 69
LYRIC THEATRE 56
EXHIBITION HALL 56
PRINCIPAL THEATRE 56
THE PRIM MEMORIAL 106
_MONSERRAT._
THE MONASTERY 71
_TARRAGONA._
THE AQUEDUCT 73
GENERAL VIEW 74
_SAGUNTO._
THE ROMAN THEATRE 75
_TORTOSA._
GENERAL VIEW 76
_CASTELLON._
WINDING OF THE HIGH ROAD ON CUERVO MOUNTAIN 77
_VALENCIA._
ST. CATHERINE’S SQUARE AND TOWER 78
GENERAL VIEW 79
THE EXCHANGE 81
A VALENCIANA 82
TRINITY BRIDGE 84
GLORIETA FOUNTAIN 84
THE MEDITERRANEAN SHORE 84
BEACHING THE BOATS 84
VALENCIAN BEAUTIES 240
A TARTANA 92
_CARTHAGENA._
GENERAL VIEW 89
_MURCIA._
A NATIVE OF 92, 93
A NOON-TIME HALT 92
THE HARVEST CART 92
A CARTLOAD OF TINAJAS 92
_TOLEDO._
CHURCH OF SANTA MARIA DE LA BLANCA 95
THE VISAGRA GATE 96
THE DOOR OF THE SUN 97
THE CATHEDRAL 99
ST. MARTIN’S BRIDGE 101
CHURCH OF SAN JUAN DE LOS REYES, COURTYARD 102
THE CATHEDRAL, CENTRAL NAVE 102
“ EXTERIOR OF HIGH ALTAR 102
“ THE LION DOOR 102, 104
“ THE HIGH ALTAR 97
“ SEPULCHRE OF ALONSO DE CARRILLO 104
“ GENERAL VIEW OF THE CHOIR-STALLS 100
“ INTERIOR 100
CHURCH OF SAN JUAN DE LOS REYES, RETABLO 104
“ “ “ INTERIOR 104
ALCÁNTARA DOOR AND BRIDGE 98
“ GATE 98
FAÇADE OF SANTA CRUZ 98
THE CATHEDRAL 98
CONVENT OF SAN JUAN DE LA PENITENCIA Appendix
_CÓRDOVA._
BRIDGE AND CATHEDRAL 104
THE MOSQUE 106
CATHEDRAL, CHOIR STALLS 106
“ GENERAL INTERIOR VIEW 106
AT THE FOUNTAIN 162
AT THE SPRING 162
IN THE COURT OF ORANGES 140
THE MOSQUE, A CORNER IN Appendix
“ INTERIOR “
CATHEDRAL, TOWER “
_ANDALUSIA._
ANDALUSIAN GALLANTRY 160
_BURGOS._
THE CATHEDRAL, FROM THE CASTLE 109
_SEGOVIA._
A GENERAL VIEW 113
A NATIVE 114
_AVILA._
VIEW OF 115
_CIUDAD-REAL._
GENERAL VIEW 116
_CUENCA._
THE VALLEY OF THE JUCAR 117
VIEW FROM SAN JUAN HILL 119
VIEW OF CUENCA 120
_GRANADA._
VIEW FROM THE “BARRANCO DE LA ZORRA” (THE FOX’S HOLE) 125
THE WINE DOOR 127
ENTRANCE TO THE COURT OF LIONS 128
THE INFANTAS’ TOWER 131
EL GENERALIFFE 133
“ “ THE ACEQUIA COURT, FROM MAIN ENTRANCE 134
LA ALCAICERIA 135
VIEW OF ALBAYCIN 137
COURTYARD OF AN ARAB HOUSE 139
THE GENERALIFFE 2
THE LADIES’ TOWER, THE ALHAMBRA 15
THE GIPSY QUARTERS 15
A STREET IN GRANADA 14
ARAB SILK MARKET 14
SHOWING THE ALHAMBRA AND THE SIERRA NEVADA 128
THE SACRISTY OF THE CARTUJA CONVENT 120
THE COLUMBUS MEMORIAL 140
GROUP OF GYPSIES 140
TRANSEPT AND HIGH ALTAR, CATHEDRAL 122
_THE ALHAMBRA._
THE COURT OF LIONS 130, 132
HALL OF AMBASSADORS 132
THE FAVOURITE’S BALCONY 132
THE COURT OF LIONS, A LITTLE TEMPLE IN “
“ “ A PEEP INTO “
“ “ LITTLE EASTERN TEMPLE IN “
“ “ FOUNTAIN IN “
HALL OF THE COURT OF JUSTICE AND COURT OF LIONS “
INTERIOR OF THE MOSQUE “
THE CAPTIVE’S TOWER “
THE SULTAN’S BATH “
THE DRESSING ROOM “
HALL OF THE TWO SISTERS “
HALL OF THE COURT OF JUSTICE “
THE DOOR OF JUSTICE “
THE CAPTIVE AND CADID TOWERS “
WASHINGTON IRVING HOTEL “
ENTRANCES TO THE ALHAMBRA “
THE COURT OF MYRTLES 132 “
“ “ GALLERY IN “
PALACE OF CHARLES V. “
“ “ ROMAN COURT “
THE ALHAMBRA AND THE SIERRA NEVADA “
THE ROYAL CHAPEL, CATHEDRAL “
EL GENERALIFFE, THE ACEQUIA COURT “
“ “ CYPRUS COURT “
“ “ GALLERY IN THE ACEQUIA COURT “
“ “ A CORNER OF THE ACEQUIA COURT “
_SEVILLE._
GENERAL VIEW, FROM THE TOP OF THE “GIRALDA,” LOOKING EAST 143
DANCING BOYS, CATHEDRAL 145
THE TOWER OF THE GOLD 146
GIRLS’ COURT IN THE ALCÁZAR 148
CATHEDRAL 149
ENTRANCE TO THE ALCÁZAR 150
THE ALCÁZAR, AMBASSADOR’S HALL 151, 158
“ A DOORWAY IN 152
CIGAR MAKERS 154
A SEVILLIAN 155
THE “SEVILLANAS” DANCE 156
CATHEDRAL, EXTERIOR 146
“ FIFTEENTH CENTURY GRATING 152
THE ALCÁZAR, GARDENS 148, 150
“ SULTANA’S QUARTERS 158
“ INTERCOLUMNIATION, WHERE DON FADRIQUE WAS ASSASSINATED 158
“ THE COURT OF DOLLS 152
SAN FERNANDO SQUARE 150
A SEVILLIAN PATIO 162
A STREET 152
GALLERY OF PILATE’S HOUSE 152
_CADIZ._
VIEW FROM THE TAVIRA TOWER 165
VIEW FROM SAN CARLOS BATTERY 168
_MÁLAGA._
VIEW FROM THE “FAROLA PROMENADE” 169
VIEW FROM THE “GIBRALFARO” 173
_RONDA._
THE GORGE 176
GENERAL VIEW, WITH THE MOORISH BRIDGE OF THE “TAGO DE RONDA” 177
_HENDAYE._
GENERAL VIEW 181
_IRUN._
GENERAL VIEW 182
_PASAJES._
VIEW OF THE TOWN 183
_GUIPÚZCOA._
PASAJES DE SAN JUAN 184
_SAN SEBASTIAN._
CONCHA PROMENADE 185
_BILBAO._
SUBURBS 186
GENERAL VIEW 187
VIZCAYA BRIDGE 189
OLD BILBAO 190
THE ARENAL PROMENADE 191
THE ORCONERO IRON ORE COMPANY’S WHARF IN LUCHANA 193
_GALICIA._
A NATIVE 195
NATIVES 196
VIEWS IN GALICIA 199
_PONTEVEDRA._
GENERAL VIEW OF REDONDELA 197
GENERAL VIEW 201
_CORUÑA._
GENERAL VIEW TAKEN FROM THE OLD TOWN 200
_VIGO._
VIEW FROM THE CASTLE 205
_GIJON._
THE WHARF 207
_SANTANDER._
THE PORT 208
GENERAL VIEW 209
_LEÓN._
THE CATHEDRAL 210
CLOISTER IN CATHEDRAL 211
THE CATHEDRAL CHOIR STALLS 211
VIEW TAKEN FROM THE CEMETERY 212
_SALAMANCA._
GENERAL VIEW 213
VIEW OF THE COLLEGE, FROM THE IRLANDESES 214
_ZARAGOZA._
“INDEPENDENCIA” PROMENADE 215
PILAR CHURCH 217
A FLEMISH DANCE 218
THE BOUQUET--THE DAWN OF ST. JOHN’S DAY 160
_NUEVALOS._
AT NUEVALOS 218
_THE CORONATION OF ALFONSO XIII., 1902._
THE KING’S CARRIAGE 264
ARRIVAL AT THE CONGRESS 264
PROCESSION OF THE CORONATION BULL-FIGHT 264
_LINARES._
GENERAL VIEW 340
_PONFERRADA._
VIEW OF THE CASTLE 340
_BULL-FIGHTING._
THE PROCESSION 221
ENTRANCE OF THE BULL 223
THE PICADOR 227
AT CLOSE QUARTERS 230
A TURN WITH HIS BACK TO THE BULL 233
FIXING THE BANDERILLAS 235
THE MATADOR 237
THE FINAL STROKE 239
ENTERTAINING THE BULL-FIGHTERS 160
BULL-FIGHTERS AT THE TAVERN 240
A PICADOR 240
MINING VIEWS.
_BILBAO._
THE UNION MINE 270
ORCONERA IRON ORE COMPANY 278
ORCONERA COMPANY’S WORKINGS 281
THE RAILWAY SYSTEM 283
TRANSPORT OF ORE, ARCOCHA 285
LOS ALTOS HORNOS DEL DISIERTO 287
_RIO TINTO._
TERMINUS OF THE MINE RAILWAY 271
THE CANAL SYSTEM 272
SAN DIONISIO SHAFT 306
MINES 288
THE LAGO CUTTING 289, 292
THE FRAMES 291
THE CUTTINGS 293
_HUELVA._
PORTION OF WORKS, AND SAN FERNANDO VILLAGE 276
CEMENTATION VATS 277
HEAD OF THE SAINTE-BARBE SHAFT 305
_ALMERIA._
THE PORT OF ALMERIA 294
WASHING FOR ALLUVIAL TIN 296
A TRENCH IN TIN ORE 299
_AGUILAS._
THE RAILWAY 321
THE CASTLE AND HARBOUR 324
_PÁRAMO._
THE OLD GOLD WORKINGS 303
GENERAL VIEW 334
ALLUVIAL GOLD WASHING 335
_ESCURIAL._
PORTION OF BUILDINGS 309
A CUTTING 310, 317
“DOLORES,” “JAIME,” AND MAIN SHAFT 311, 313
GALAPAGAR SMELTING WORKS 313
ENGINE HOUSE AND BLACKSMITH’S SHOP 315
SNAPSHOT SHOWING CUTTING 318
_HUÉRCAL._
BÁRRIS CUTTING 320
THE CHURCH 322
HEAPS OF COPPER ORE 325
_BADAJOZ._
LAS PALMAS BRIDGE 338
MAPS.
GENERAL MAP OF SPAIN 1
RAILWAY MAP OF SPAIN 267
MINING MAP OF SPAIN 273
MAP SHOWING ALLUVIAL GOLD DISTRICT IN NORTH-WEST SPAIN 301
CONTENTS.
PAGE
INTRODUCTORY 1
MADRID 10