Chapter 3

Here was no want of help; the luggage and the passengers were ready at the proper station, so that in a handful of minutes the transfer was completed without bustle or alarm. Meantime the interest of this novel scene was greatly increased by the coming up of the inward-bound Norfolk-man, which flitted close by us amidst the roar occasioned by the escaping steam of the vessels lying-to, a noise that might have drowned the voice of Niagara.

As we thus lay together, I noticed that the upper or promenade deck of the Columbus was completely taken up by a double row of flashy-looking covered carts, or tilt-waggons, as they are called here. Upon inquiry, I found that these contained the goods, and were, indeed, the movable stores, or shops, of that much enduring class, the Yankee pedlars, just setting forth for their annual winter cruise amongst the plantations of the South: where, however their keen dealing may be held in awe, they are looked for with lively anxiety, and their arrival greeted as an advent of no little moment.

They form a hardy and enterprising class, and ought to be well paid for the risks and great labour they undergo; being, in fact, the mercantile pioneers of the continent, every corner of which they penetrate from the Atlantic to the Pacific, supplying, in their route, the frontiers with little luxuries that else would never find a way there for years to come. They thus keep the chain of civilization entire, binding the remotest settlers to the great Union by their necessities, to which it administers through these its adventurous agents, whose tempting "_notions_" constantly create new wants amongst the simple children of the forest and prairie.

Arranged in a half circle about the bow on the main-deck, I observed the horses of these royal pedlars: they stretched their necks out to examine us with a keenness of look worthy their knowing masters' reputation and their own education.

Our business being completed, the hissing sound of the waste-steam pipe ceased, this force being once more applied to its right use; the paddles began to move, the lashings were cast off, and away the boats darted from each other with startling rapidity; the Columbus, with the gale aft, rushing down the great bay of the Chesapeake, and the Washington breasting its force right for Baltimore.

Our captain, I soon perceived, was bent upon overtaking the steamer that had passed whilst we were busied alongside the Columbus; and so quickly did he overhaul her, that, although we had not over fourteen miles to go, he left her astern far enough before entering the harbour to satisfy his honour, and prove the George Washington the fastest boat. About four o'clock P.M. we approached the wharf, amidst the usual cries of "coach!" "want a coach, your honour?" given in accents always welcome to my ears, for they remind me of home.

I am here tempted to recall a little personal anecdote, which is illustrative of the character of this class of my countrymen, and proves that the ready address for which they are so famous at home does not desert them on this side the water.

During the first visit I paid this city, I had of course made particular acquaintance with one or two Jarveys; for I lived a long way from my work, and their attention was serviceable. On my next arrival at the harbour, it was late: we had encountered a snow storm, and I, being wet and wretched enough, was anxious to get to the hotel, having to play that night. I was on the look-out as we touched the wharf, and with great delight heard a voice most melodiously bawl out,

"O! blur' an' oons, boys, if here isn't Mr. Power!"

The planks were shoved over, and, at the same moment, half a dozen voices greeted me with the accustomed

"Here's a coach, Mr. Power!"

"Och! sure your honour'll go wid _me_ this turn, for luck!"

"You're welcome, Mr. P----: long life to yez! it's I've the coach'll whip you up to ould Barnums', snug and dry, in no time."

In the midst of this din, whilst I was yet on the plank, I perceived a tall raw-boned Tipperary lad, who had evidently decided on appropriating me, making his way most unceremoniously through the crowd, shouting out in a tone that drowned all competitors,

"Och! thin', will yez stop yer bawling, and don't bother Mr. Power, when his _own_ carriage has bin waiting for him here these two hours."

An appeal like this was not to be resisted: I therefore accompanied my friend to my _own_ carriage; and whatever doubts I might entertain as to this part of my friend's statement, the fact of its having been in waiting for "these two hours" I could readily credit; for I found it half full of snow. I observed upon its condition, saying that, as I was expected, _my_ carriage might have been better looked after.

"Wasn't I below looking afther ye're honour, and that's the way the snow got in without my seein' it: indeed, we're not a dale used to snows here away; but I'll have it out and turn the cushions, and powdher you up to the hotel in a minute."

All this was said and done in an accent and with a manner that made me for a moment forget the wharf of Baltimore, and fancy myself at the foot of Essex bridge, or landing on the pier of Kingston.

Just as I was sitting down to dinner, received a note from Mr. S----r, offering kindly, that, if I felt so disposed, they would next morning take out the hounds, and see if a fox could not be found. I accepted the invitation with pleasure, and dined no worse with the prospect of a run in the distance.

To the theatre, and early to bed, after giving directions to be called at half-past five A.M., fox-hunting being an early business here; in fact, the moment the sun is fairly out, the moisture vanishes from the ground, and afterwards it becomes hard to find. Slept like a dormouse; dreamed of dogs, dykes, and red-foxes, until I was awakened by my horse backing at a Virginia rail-fence, and giving me a nearer prospect of his ears than was consistent with the true principles of equation--found Sam shaking me by the shoulder, with warning that it was time to rise.

_29th._--Took a cup of coffee, and mounted the nag Mr. S----r had sent for my use, with a saddle ample enough for a camel, a double bridle, a martingale, and all kinds of traps equally perplexing. The martingale, judging from the pony's make and carriage, I at once took objections to; but the white-headed negro groom received my directions to take it off with such evident horror, saying with tears in his eyes, "Dat he not at all good, no how neber, widout da martin-gal," that out of courtesy I felt compelled to retain it for the present, but with the mental resolution to remove it when we got to cover.

I soon discovered that my pony at his ordinary gait was a "fiddler," besides exhibiting slight symptoms of musical talent; he was, however, cobby and well-built, showed much spirit, and had a good spice of breeding about him; presuming his pluck to be answerable, I did not despair of being somewhere.

In the suburbs we unkennelled the dogs: the pack consisted of twenty, all counted; ill-matched as to size and bone, but appearing healthy, clean, full of spirits, and in good working trim.

The huntsman, an old builder, of sporting character, turned out with his dogs, mounted on a powerful bay horse nearly thorough-bred, with capital pins, and real Irish quarters; as is the uniform custom here, I observed he rode with a martingale, having slips of leather on the reins to prevent the rings from drawing close to the cheek. How the devil are they to jump tired nags with these things! says I to myself; but we shall see!

Our huntsman, albeit his equipment would not have won him credit or recognition as "a sporting man" at a costermonger's skurry in Battersea-fields, had the quick eye, bright look, and keen expression of feature common to all knowing ones in the noble art of _vénerie_: he managed to make his dogs obedient, and kept them well together during a ride of some six or eight miles, although no two couple were at all matched in weight or power.

At length we cast off into as likely a looking cover as ever hound was put through, and in ten minutes after we received good information from a dependable quarter that Reynard was there or thereabouts; the scent was, judging by the tongue, not a very warm one, but our huntsman appeared confident that all was right.

In a few minutes the cry grew more cheery, the lively dogs more anxious; and whilst poking through the cover, I saw the fox, a grey one, stealing outward, and tally-ho'd him.

The dogs were wide abroad, but all busy as ants; the leaders confident, and showing no signs of being at fault; the old man declined to hark 'em-to, preferring that they should find their own way: this, after a good deal of doubling, they certainly did; an old hound hit the right scent, by inspiration as it were; and went away to it as straight as a rifle-ball, and almost as quick; taking out of this cover across a small meadow that divided it from another, into which the fox struck as quickly as possible.

It became evident, after a little dodging about, that Reynard had made up his mind to trust to these neighbour covers for safety; the dogs could not get him off: we viewed the rascal several times; and at one time I hoped he had resolved to change his plan and go-away, for he dashed from the cover-edge and tried his speed with the dogs, leading them gallantly for a few minutes; but the beast had no real game in his nature, for he doubled back for another corner of his bush.

Thus he ran and thus we rode from cover to cover, nearly always in the same line, for full two hours and a half; when the cur being brought fairly to a stand-still, was caught and killed near to where he was first tally-ho'd. The only interest afforded by this sort of chase arose from the extreme tenacity with which the hounds held on to the trail as they ran their prey through all his doubles in covers closely set with trees, and having an undergrowth of thick brushwood and bramble, all but impassable.

I was also much amused by observing the behaviour of two young English hounds, that had been imported this season only, by Captain Stockton, from the kennel of Sir Harry Goodricke, and marked H. G. on the off-side. The slut took to this rough work as keenly as any of the old hounds, and was well up with the leading dogs throughout; but the dog would not face the cover; he stuck close to the heels of the last horse in every skurry, and never evinced the least desire to do credit to his gallant breeding.

About three o'clock got back to Baltimore, with but a poor opinion of Transatlantic fox-hunting, if this may be considered a specimen. My excellent and sport-loving friend, S----r, informs me, however, that the red fox when found is another affair altogether, possessing great speed, and having courage to rely upon it.

In search of one of this family, I have promised to ride on Friday, wind and weather permitting; at present both are more variable than I can describe, the extreme changes of the temperature, and the suddenness of these, utterly surpassing all my experience. One day I have a large fire, and the next, windows and doors open in search of cool air: in the course of the afternoon a change of twenty degrees is a common occurrence. The Indian summer has not yet set in, but when the influence of the equinox is over, we shall have, I hope, a few of those divine days that made last fall so enjoyable a season.

Since my last visit, a very handsome hotel has been completed adjoining the Exchange, of which building it forms indeed a part; it is to be conducted after the manner of the Mansion-house at Philadelphia. This is the work of two or three public-spirited men, and the benevolence of their design merits the thanks of the travelling community; for the more such hotels are multiplied, the better for them.

_30th._--Accompanied by Mr. G----s, went to look over a small collection of pictures belonging to a Mr. Gilmour. I was struck by a couple of portraits painted by Lawrence: they were the likenesses of the proprietor of the house and his wife. The gentleman was done in the best style of this master; and the lady, an exceedingly lovely woman, was also an admirable as well as a most attractive portrait; but lacking, I imagined, that quiet simple grace which makes his female figures so refined, so inimitable.

Here were several good pictures of both the Italian and Dutch schools, amongst others a Cuyp, said to be undoubtedly original; but, viewed through the medium of closely-curtained drawing-rooms, on a dull day, it was not possible to form a correct judgment as to the true character of any of the subjects. The whole thing was however in good taste; and numberless articles of _virtù_ gave evidence of the refinement and love of art which distinguishes the owner, who, I regretted to learn, was at this time confined to his bed by severe illness. I had the honour of being presented to the lady of the house; and, although many years have passed since she sat to our late President, I at once recognised her for the original of the charming portrait to which I have alluded.

_October 3rd._--Friday, at seven A.M., left Barnum's to seek for a red fox in company with my friend S----r, and that fine old man, Mr. Oliver, now no more. We were joined on the way by three or four other gentlemen, and on we pushed for the Neck, where the landing took place under Ross, our ground being the field of battle. The morning was insufferably sultry; but, as it had rained all the previous day, it was decided by the knowing ones that the scent would lie well.

I observed that we had on this day a new huntsman, and, upon inquiry for our former companion, learnt that he was compelled to stay by his brick-field. His successor, a queer-looking fish, who was hailed as Colonel A----, afforded me much amusement by the singularity of his equipment; as we neared our hunting-ground, my attention was yet more strongly fixed upon the colonel by old Mr. Oliver, who made several humorous allusions to a former hard run of our huntsman's over the same line of country; allusions which called forth loud laughter from all present, including the subject of them, although I observed his merriment to be accompanied by a whimsical air of embarrassment.

I was quickly put up to the fun by one of our party, who informed me, that on the day of the fight which took place here, it was the colonel's fortune to command a battalion of militia fifteen hundred strong; he had been stationed with his battalion behind a fence, with orders to make it good as long as possible; but the general commanding on the field perceiving that the position was turned at some distance by a corps of the British, sent an _aide_ to the gallant colonel, directing him to change his front so as to face the advancing enemy, and retire to the next field, where his flank would be covered.

The colonel, whose military eye now clearly perceived that his position was the evident aim of the advancing British column, whose quick step was rapidly shortening the distance between, listened to the message of his commander with some impatience, replying to the _aide_ with admirable promptitude.

"Why, look'ee, major, as to changin' front and all that, I calculate you'd best do it yourself: but I dare say what you tell me about retiring is all right; I see no possible objections to that; therefore, I wish you a very good day."

The colonel kept his word: no sooner said than done; _retiring_ instantly in the direction of home, and never halting for breath until he reached the city, a march of about seven or eight miles, which was accomplished in a time that proved highly creditable to the wind and bottom of both himself and such of his corps as stuck to their chief throughout this rapid movement.

The worthy militia colonel was tried by court-martial, and broke, for this wise exercise of his judgment; he still, notwithstanding, rejoices in his military title; and follows the hounds stoutly at a good healthy old age, which in all human probability would never have arrived had he waited to change his front with a veteran corps actively deploying on his flank in open field.

We drew a great extent of cover, but found no fox; indeed, if we had, the day came on too hot for either dogs or horses to have followed far. I was sufficiently delighted with my ride; the woods were beautiful, and from the Neck both the harbour and city show to great advantage.

During this visit to Baltimore, I had changed my scene of action from the "Front Street" to the "Holiday Theatre;" smaller, but more comfortable than my first quarters: this city is not so theatrical as the others I have visited, but no audience can be more agreeable; they certainly ought to like a play, for when they do come they enjoy it heartily; and during my present visit the house was unusually well attended. As a residence I like Baltimore much; its market is equal to any other in the States, and cheaper than either Philadelphia or New York.

The great race-meeting, on the central course here, being to take place on the 21st of this month, I resolved to attend it; and spent my intervening fortnight between Philadelphia and Princeton, where I passed a few days at Mr. S----n's, quail-shooting, in company with a countryman, whose society made the longest day light, and sometimes indeed did as much for the longest night. On the 18th I again quitted the hospitable Princeton, and accompanied Captain S----n to Bristol, _via_ Trenton. In the latter place we found the whole community rejoicing over the triumph of the democratic or Jackson party, in favour of which the past election had proved most decisive. At Bristol we took the steamer for Philadelphia, and next day on to Baltimore for the races: the weather for the last ten days unexceptionable.

_Tuesday, 21st._--Attended the central course: a pleasant ride of six miles or so. On this day was made the first attempt at running three-year old horses with our weight and for our distance, instead of the four-mile heats usual here; the attempt was a decided failure: an evident prejudice existed against it amongst the sporting men; only six horses were entered, and of these four paid forfeit: the race became a match therefore, and went off tamely. I doubt whether the experiment will ever succeed here, if even it is repeated.

Nothing can be more meagre than the ordinary accessories of an American race-course: here is no assemblage of the _beau-monde_, no populace, no four-in-hand drags, no costermongers, no donkeys, no dukes, no thimble-rig, no gipsies; in short, "no nothin'," except a few quiet-looking hacks and a sprinkling of sulkies.

On this day, I observed about a dozen ladies in the comfortless stand: these were here in order to qualify for the race-ball, the stewards having given out that no _invites_ would be extended to any ladies who did not, on one day at least, grace the course with their presence.

_24th._--A better assemblage on the course than I have yet seen: a good deal of excitement stirring in consequence of "Shark" being entered once more to run against the pet of the South, "Trifle." The stand presented quite a goodly show of women: a greater number of pretty ones it would be difficult to collect in any city of the size.

The race was won by the favourite "Trifle" in two four-mile heats, two of the horses entered being distanced in the first: the time of the first heat was seven minutes 28 seconds; and of the second, seven minutes 27 seconds.

"Shark" again ran under great disadvantages; for, during his journey from Princeton in New Jersey, he had thrown out a bad curb on his off-hock, close to the articulation of the joint. Captain S----n was resolved, however, that there should be no disappointment, and started him accordingly. He was badly ridden, and ran lame for the first three miles, but came well in. For the second heat his rider was changed, and he made a slashing race, coming in close to the little mare. "Shark" is an Eclipse colt, of remarkable power and beauty, and will yet, I think, turn out one of the first race-horses of the country.

In the evening, the race-ball took place, and here were congregated most of the assembly-going beauty of Baltimore; but, I should say, the cathedral is the place where the greatest portion may be seen. I do not know whether or not my judgment is correct, but the general style of dress struck me to be in better taste here than I had elsewhere observed it; perhaps because it was plainer, a style that suits my fancy better than any mode having more pretension.

A good supper was one of the provisions not least admirable; a majestic corned round of beef stood on a side-table; an object of admiration not often presented to view in the States, but of whose beauty there could be no two opinions: for myself, I did more than admire; I at once addressed it ardently, and for its return of tenderness can avouch: I gratefully remember it, still cherishing the fond recollection.

A compassionate countryman of my own, who saw me drinking iced champagne, bade me follow him: with that provident attention to trifles, so characteristic of Ireland on similar occasions, this thoughtful soul had not "forgotten to remember" that a little whisky-punch might be acceptable on a cold night before facing the air of morning. The compound in question had been prepared by an experienced hand, and the _material_ was great indeed; I was assured that the spirit had been just fifteen years away from its native city, Cork. Honoured be its parent. Still! may the turf ever burn bright beneath it, and the New World long rejoice in its fruitfulness!

"For Oh! there's a spell

In its every drop, 'gainst the ills of mortality. Talk of the cordial that sparkled for Helen, Her cup was a fiction, but this a reality."

_Sunday, 26th._--Was called early, having an engagement to pass a couple of days with Mr. C----l at his country-house: found a gale of wind blowing, with an accompaniment of heavy rain: countermanded the vehicle I had ordered, and returned to bed, since a country excursion on this day was out of the question.

_27th._--Accompanied Mr. S----r to Carrol's Island, having arranged to visit this celebrated ducking-ground on our way to Mr. Oliver's seat.

We reached the house about eleven o'clock, the distance being sixteen miles: the cottage, which forms the head-quarters of the club of gentlemen who farm this sporting-stand, was plain enough for the most republican spirit. One sitting-room, and a couple of dormitories containing a camp-bed for each member, with pegs and racks for arms and implements, formed the whole of the appointments and furniture; but the sport is first-rate; and the plain simplicity of this _ménage_ gives increased zest to the meeting, and promotes the hardihood essential both to the successful pursuit of game and to the healthful enjoyment of the sport.

Before the hour of dinner, we walked down on to the long neck of land where the shooters patiently abide the flight of the ducks: on one side is the Seneca, and on the other the Gunpowder river; both favourite feeding-grounds of all the water-fowl frequenting this region of creeks, rivers, and bays. About the central line of the neck of land, a dozen or so of stands are ranged at equal distances, built about four feet high, each large enough for two gunners; with shelves within for the various traps needful, a plank floor, and a couple of stools.