Part 12

And now is the time if ever that fresh cods' tongues should find favor. They are inexpensive and in perfect condition, and by more than one gourmet are considered an unrivalled delicacy. If this statement persuades you to give them a trial, just a word as to preparing them: Have three pints of water boiling in a saucepan, add to it two carrots and half a dozen onions very finely chopped, a few sprigs of parsley and two gills of vinegar. When the vegetables are nearly tender enough put into the saucepan with them two pounds of cods' tongues. Let them boil just once, then move back where they will simmer but not boil for twenty minutes or so. Take up the tongues, drain, dress them on a hot dish and keep hot while you prepare the sauce. For this drain the vegetables and toss them about in a frying-pan in plenty of butter till they show signs of browning a bit, then add to them some chopped cucumber pickles and a few capers and pour round the tongues. Season the sauce, of course, with salt and pepper, and if you are gifted with rare discretion in the matter of spices use ever so little nutmeg in it; just one or two turns of the grater will give you all you should have. I intend to be very particular in my choice of readers and hearers when I suggest the use of nutmeg in savory sauces, because there are so many housekeepers as well as cooks who positively are not to be trusted with a nutmeg in one hand and a grater in the other; they will persist in going on the principle that if a little is good more must be better, and then grate away for dear life.

Of course you know that smelts are in their prime, but is your sense of smell keen enough to detect in that fish the likeness of its fragrance to that of the violet or of the cucumber? Well, the similarity is there if the fish be as fresh as it should, and if you don't discover it you may add another to your list of misfortunes, for they do say, those who know whereof they speak, that inability to perceive this subtle scent indicates a correspondingly unappreciative palate. And so much for my fish story.

Fried Partridge Breasts

Along with the many things for which we have cause for rejoicing about this time of year there should certainly be reckoned the fact that game of almost all kinds is more plentiful and less expensive than at other seasons. And you know that under such favorable circumstances as these I am wont to urge you to make experiments in preparing the viand in question. Suppose, for instance, that the next time you are to have partridges you pretend to forget that these birds are ever roasted or broiled, and so set to work to serve them in this way: Have four partridges, cut off the breasts, divide them in two and lay them aside; boil the legs and livers of the birds in salted water till they are quite tender--so tender, in fact, that they can be pressed through a rather coarse sieve. Put this pulp into a saucepan with a gill of the water used for boiling it, half a gill of sherry wine, a bit of cayenne, an ounce of butter, and salt if it is needed. Let this get hot, very hot, without boiling, and keep it hot while you cook the breasts. These fry in butter and range in a circle on a dish with alternate slices of bread also fried in butter, and in the centre pour the sauce made from the legs and livers. To be sure, you can make the sauce somewhat richer by adding to it chopped mushrooms or chopped truffles or both.

Roasted Quails

Forget, also, for a time, your favorite ways of cooking quails in order that you may pronounce judgment on this manner of preparing them: Have half a dozen of them drawn and singed for roasting. Chop up the livers, double the quantity of chicken liver and as much minced fat salt pork as liver; add chopped parsley, salt, cayenne, three or four drops of onion juice, a tablespoonful of very fine bread-crumbs, and one beaten egg. Mix these ingredients all well together and fill the quails with it; roast them in a rather moderate oven for twenty minutes, basting occasionally with melted butter. Dress the quails on a hot dish, squeeze a few drops of lemon juice into the pan in which they were roasted, adding a little melted butter, and pour this sauce over the birds.

Roasted Duck Stuffed with Celery

Or it may be that for yourself you prefer a roasted black duck, but cannot gratify your preference because some members of the family will insist upon calling such a bird "strong," when you know and speak of the flavor only as being "gamey." Now, there's a way out of the difficulty for all of you. Just stuff the birds as full as you can with celery tops, tie thin slices of fat salt pork over their breasts and roast them till they are quite tender and brown. You will find the strong flavor entirely gone, while the gamey taste will be so aided and abetted by the celery that your palate will receive a new and altogether delightful sensation. Surround the ducks when serving with a border prepared as follows: Brown some slices of bread in the oven, and when of a good color and very dry, roll and pass through a fine sieve, mix these crumbs with a little butter, season them with salt and pepper and heat well in the oven before using. Serve with the ducks also a hot apple sauce; make it as you always do and add to one pint of sauce an ounce of butter.

With either of the ways suggested for cooking game you will want to serve a salad, probably, and you can't do better than decide to have one of escarole or of romaine with a simple French dressing. But there is chicory, of course, and there is lettuce, and both of them in fine condition, if you don't feel inclined to take my advice. And there are cucumbers, from hothouses, and there are hothouse tomatoes, that are expensive or the reverse, according to one's position on the financial question. In fact, you can get almost any kind of vegetable or fruit in the large markets to-day, and at all times; and if the particular thing that you desire happens to be absent, just wait a few minutes and your order will be filled by lightning express from some part of the world.

_Index_

SOUPS

PAGE Asparagus 92 Bisque of clams 89 Chicken consommé 220 Consommé with asparagus 197 Purée of peas and spinach 79 Savory tomato 87 Soup, velvet 177

FISH

Bluefish, Newport style 169 Cods' tongues, boiled 227 Fresh cod, baked 9 Fresh cod, broiled 9 Fresh cod, Delmonico style 8 Fresh cod, flaked, in tomato sauce 37 Halibut, baked, with Parmesan 178 Smelts, baked 167 Smelts, broiled, Béarnaise sauce 167 Smelts, fried, with parsley 168 Trout, lake, boiled 50 Whitefish, baked 226

SMOKED OR SALT FISH

Codfish with brown butter 44 Codfish with cream 43 Cods' tongues, fried 45 Fillets of sole, casserole of 51 Finnan haddies with cream 48 Herring, fried 47 Mackerel, boiled, horse-radish sauce 46 Salmon, broiled 46

SHELL FISH

Clam cocktails 65 Clams, West Island style 94 Clams and lobsters in shells 95 Lobster _à la_ Newberg 38, 130 Lobster croquettes 131 Lobster, devilled 129 Lobster patties 134 Lobster tartlets 130 Lobster toast 129 Lobster tails stuffed 131 Oysters, baked 143 Oysters, baked with cheese 220 Oyster cocktails 142 Oysters, creamed 37 Oysters, celery roast 146 Oysters, devilled and fried 145 Oysters, pickled 147 Oyster pie 146 Oyster salad 17 Oyster sandwiches 190 Oyster soufflée 52 Oysters, stewed, with cream 144 Oysters, stuffed and fried 145 Scallops in shells 210

BEEF, MUTTON, LAMB, PORK, ETC.

Beef tongue 112 Cutlets, jellied 140 Ham, roasted 5 Ham toast 102 Kidneys, en brochette 25 Kidneys, fried, with mushrooms 26 Kidneys, minced 27 Lamb croquettes 23 Lamb cutlets with mushrooms 135 Lamb, roasted, with caper sauce 20 Lamb, roasted, with macaroni 21 Lamb, roasted, with onion purée 21 Lamb steak 66 Lamb steak, with Béarnaise sauce 67 Lamb slices, broiled 22 Lamb slices, fried with chutney 22 Lamb slices, stewed with onions and mushrooms 22 Lamb slices in chafing dish 23 Liver, calf's, fried 28 Pigs' feet, broiled 6 Pork chops, broiled, sauce piquante 3 Pork, roasted, onion sauce 4 Sausages 2 Veal cutlets, broiled 83

POULTRY, GAME, ETC.

Chicken cream (cold) 42, 138 Chicken cream with tomato (cold) 139 Chicken, fried, Italian style 159 Chicken, fried with tomatoes 160 Chicken, fried, cream sauce 100 Chicken hash, baked 84 Chicken livers, olive sauce 39 Chicken liver patties 211 Doe birds, roasted 111 Duck, broiled canvas-back 214 Duck, canvas-back, roasted, port wine sauce 215 Duck, fillets, with orange sauce 207 Ducks, roasted, with orange sauce 160 Ducks, roasted, with olives 179 Duck, stuffed with celery tops, roasted 230 Duck, mallard, roasted, with fried celery 216 Game tarts 111 Goose pie 205 Goose, roasted, potato stuffing 221 Goose, stewed 206 Grouse pie 119 Grouse, roasted 176 Partridge breasts, fried 229 Partridge salmi (cold) 210 Plover, roasted 120 Quail, roasted 176, 230 Teal (ducks), roasted 211 Turkey in aspic 111 Turkey legs, broiled 203 Turkey legs, devilled and broiled 203 Turkey, minced 205 Turkey, minced with mushrooms 204

VEGETABLES

Asparagus, baked 77 Asparagus tops with cheese 90 Asparagus tops with cream 76 Asparagus with savory sauce 77 Cucumbers, fried 96 Cucumbers, stuffed and baked 95 Mushroom cannelons 198 Oyster plant with cream 118 Peas with mint 92 Potato soufflée 67 Potato omelet 204 Squash, baked 206 String beans with butter 199 Tomatoes, broiled, devilled 161 Tomatoes, broiled, on toast 162 Tomatoes with celery and mayonnaise 212 Turnips with butter sauce 222

SALADS

Apple and celery 162 Asparagus 77, 88 Brussels sprouts 16 Cheese 193 Duck 207 Fish 208 Herring 84 Lamb 24 Lettuce with chives 91 Nut 18 Oyster 17 Red cabbage 14 Sardine 16 Spanish onion 15

SWEET SALADS

Fruit--general 107 Fruit--summer 201 Fruit--winter 18 Pear 106 Pear salad, No. 2 164 Pineapple 106 Strawberry 105

EGG DISHES

Baked 57 Curdled in cream 55 Eggs, curried 41 Eggs, snow 62 Epicurean style 56 In tomato purée 58 Omelet Célestine 61 Omelet jelly 60 Omelet, Spanish 59 Omelet strawberries 60 Omelet with caviare 58 Omelet with chicken liver 59 Omelette soufflée 62 Scrambled with truffles 58 Toast with Parmesan 57

DESSERTS

Almond pudding 53 Charlotte, apricot 81 Charlotte, macaroon 180 Cream, banana 108 Cream, coffee glacée 53 Cream, gooseberry 102 Cream, peach 108 Cream, raspberry 108 Macaroon custard 212 Milk sherbet 123 Musk melon jelly 114 Omelet Célestine 61 Omelet with jelly 60 Omelet with strawberries 60 Omelette soufflée 62 Raspberries, crystallized 107 Strawberries, frozen 91 Strawberry fritters 103 Strawberry jelly 105 Strawberry pudding 104 Strawberry sherbet 124 Watermelon, iced 99

ICE CREAMS AND ICES

Champagne sherbet 125 Champagne sherbet with strawberries 126 Claret sherbet 126 Coffee ice cream 123 Currant sherbet 124 Grape fruit sherbet 201 Kirsch sherbet 127 Peach sherbet 124 Pineapple sherbet 124 Rhubarb sherbet 81 Victoria sorbet 223 Wine ice cream 137

FRUITS, COOKED

Apple croquettes 3 Apple salad 156 Apple sauce with orange 163 Apple sauce with whipped cream 163 Apples, fried 155 Apples in vanilla syrup 155 Grape jam 149 Peach cream 165 Pears in vanilla syrup 157 Pears stewed in claret 158 Pears, stuffed 164 Pears, stuffed stewed 158 Peaches, brandied 154 Peaches, stuffed 165 Plums, brandied 153 Plum jam 152 Quince jelly 151 Quince marmalade 150

DRINKS

Claret, hot, egg-nog 182 Claret, hot, spiced 182 Claret tipple 182 Cider cup 186 Cider egg-nog 185 Cider punch 184 Ginger lemonade 186 Moss rose 115 Orange punch 184 Quince liqueur 185 Rhine wine cup 186 Rhine wine seltzer 186 Soda cocktail 187 Sherry egg-nog, hot 183 Various cups 186

MISCELLANEOUS

Butters, savory 191 Cider sauce 5 Croquettes, macaroni 27 Croquettes, sweet corn (canned) 11 Golden buck 41 Grape fruit with rum 201 Hash, sublimated 12 Jelly, savory 193 Johnny cake, Rhode Island style 13 Macaroni, timbales 51 Macaroni with cheese 199 Mayonnaise, with horse-radish 79 Olives with caviare 78 Partridge, sauce for 175 Rice muffins 12 Sandwiches, caviare 190 Sandwiches, crust 191 Sandwiches, fish 191 Sandwiches, French 113 Sandwiches, game 191 Sandwiches, sweet 192 Sardine canapé 219 Sauce duchesse 80 Sauce for calf's liver 29 Sauce, onion 80 Toast, anchovy 69 Toast for game 174 Toast, sardine 69 Tunny fish 70 Welsh rabbit 40

INVALID COOKERY

Barley, purée of 31 Beef tea 32 Chicken broth with oatmeal 31 Chicken custard 33 Chicken, sabayon of 32 Cream soup 32 Invalid's chop 35 Rice, steamed 35 Tapioca jelly 33 Violet jelly 34

_Works on Cookery_

MRS. LINCOLN'S COOK BOOK

New Edition. The Boston Cook Book. What to Do and What Not to Do in Cooking. By MARY J. LINCOLN. With 51 illustrations. Revised edition, including 250 additional recipes, 12mo. $2.00.

It is the trimmest, best arranged, best illustrated, most intelligible manual of cookery as a high art, and as an economic art, that has appeared.--_Independent._

It tells in the most ample and practical and exact way those little things which women ought to know, but have generally to learn by sad experience. _It ought to be in every household._--_Philadelphia Press._

CARVING AND SERVING

Square 12mo. Illuminated board covers. 60 cents.

What an advantage it must be to be able to place with the left hand a fork in the breast of a turkey, and, without once removing it, with the right hand to carve and dissect, or disjoint, the entire fowl, ready to be helped to admiring guests! This is done by skilful carvers. The book contains directions for serving, with a list of utensils for carving and serving.

BOSTON SCHOOL KITCHEN TEXT-BOOK

Lessons in Cooking for the use in Classes in Public and Industrial Schools. 12mo. $1.00.

TWENTY LESSONS IN COOKERY

Compiled from the Boston School Kitchen Text-Book. With Index. Cards in envelope. 40 cents per set _net_.

THE PEERLESS COOK-BOOK

One hundred pages of Valuable Receipts for Cooking, Compact and Practical. 16mo. Paper covers. 15 cents.

MISS FARMER'S COOK BOOK. New Edition

The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book. By FANNIE MERRITT FARMER, Principal of the Boston Cooking-School, author of "Chafing Dish Possibilities." New edition, with one hundred additional receipts. Illustrated. 12mo. $2.00.