Part 22

SUNDAY, _December 17, 1865_.

Desiring some definite information in regard to the missionary operations of the Presbyterian church in Brazil, the following was handed to me, for such use as I might think proper.

SÃO PAULO, _16 December, 1865_.

DR. GASTON:

DEAR FRIEND:—In satisfying your request for information in regard to our missionary work in Brazil, I am compelled to-day to be very brief.

In August of 1859, the Rev. A. G. Simonton arrived in Rio de Janeiro. In July of 1860, myself and wife arrived. In May, 1861, Mr. Simonton began preaching in Portuguese to three or four persons. The number of hearers slowly increased the first year to twenty-five or thirty.

In December of 1861, the Rev. F. J. C. Schneider arrived in Rio de Janeiro, destined to labor among the German colonists of this province. He resides in Rio Claro, (São João de,) and has devoted himself to this special work, amid many discouragements, and seeing but little fruit as yet of his labors.

In January of 1862, a church was organized in Rio de Janeiro, when one American and one Portuguese were received on profession, as the first fruits of our mission. Our church there now numbers forty-nine members, nearly all natives and Portuguese, and converts from Romanism. Hundreds have heard the word of God preached. The present average attendance is nearly one hundred, and would doubtless be much larger, but from the difficulty of getting a suitable hall for preaching. During most of the years of 1861, ’62, ’63 and ’64, preaching was held in English in Rio de Janeiro.

In October of 1863, I came to São Paulo, to begin a new station in this city. In March of the present year, 1865, we organized a church here, receiving as our first fruits six persons on profession, all natives, and Portuguese, and converts from Romanism. The attendance here ranges from fifteen to thirty.

In October of 1864, we received on profession to the church in Rio de Janeiro, O. Senor José Manoel de Conceicão, formerly a priest of the Roman Catholic church, and vicar of Brotas in this province. He is a man of fine talents, education, extensive information, and very eloquent. We expect (D. V.) to ordain him on to-morrow, to the full work of the gospel ministry. In his former parish of Brotas a church was organized on the 13th November of the present year, with eleven members, converts from Romanism. No missionary resides there, and the work has been done so far by visits from time to time of the persons above-named.

Since 1855, a Scotch physician has been preaching in Rio de Janeiro. The result is a church, with a membership of more than one hundred, and an attendance of from two to three hundred.

About a dozen colporteurs are at work in Rio de Janeiro, and in various parts of the empire, circulating the Bible and other books.

Some seven or eight German ministers are laboring among their countrymen in various parts.

Yours, very truly, A. L. BLACKFORD.

I am also informed that a Presbytery was organized yesterday, by these three Presbyterian ministers, to be in communication with the Synod of Baltimore. Senor Conceicão having preached his trial sermon this morning, is to be ordained this afternoon. It was delivered at the house of Mr. Blackford, in the presence of a mixed auditory, of which Dr. Shaw, Major Meriwether and myself formed a part. As he spoke Portuguese, I could only gather a few ideas, and the others had to draw upon their imagination entirely; but, like the deaf man in regard to William C. Preston, we could say he made the motions well.

Afternoon. Since writing the above, I witnessed the ordination of Senor José Manoel de Conceicão (formerly a priest of the Roman Catholic church) as a minister of the gospel in the Presbyterian faith, of the Protestant church. He was interrogated by the Rev. A. L. Blackford, who was joined by the Rev. A. G. Simonton, and the Rev. F. J. C. Schneider, in the laying on of hands, while Senor Conceicão kneeled in their midst. Mr Simonton then delivered an address, at the close of which Senor Conceicão spoke with deep feeling and the most humble appreciation of his new relations.

This event indicates an important epoch in the progress of Protestantism in this papal land, and the character of the individual, with his influence among the people, will doubtless have considerable effect upon the public mind. He has manifested much independence in separating himself from the associations of Romanism; and his appearance bespeaks the character of a high-toned, intelligent gentleman.

MONDAY, _December 18, 1865_.

Our trunks were packed and all our baggage arranged for taking our departure early this morning; but it was found that there were still wanting two pack-mules and a pack-saddle to equip us for the tour.

Upon the proffer of Dr. Shaw to pay for the pack-saddle, one was purchased by Mr. Bennaton, at the round figure of thirty ($30.00) dollars. Our friend Mr. Sampson procured two additional mules, and the outfit was pronounced complete.

The President of the province having given Mr. Bennaton the requisite document and funds for proceeding with us, our party left the capital at half-past two o’clock P. M., after a detention of five days for preparation.

Mr. J. J. Auburtin, general superintendent of the Santos and São Paulo railway, accompanies us on the tour as far as Sorocaba, having his own servant, and also his own riding mules. But it seems that he is supplied with a pack-mule and pack-saddle by Mr. Bennaton, and hence the necessity for another to be purchased.

There are two camaradas and a servant with us, and the number of animals is fifteen, there being three pack-mules, with five loose animals, besides those under the saddle, exclusive of the two mules of Mr. Auburtin. Two or three of the animals furnished by the government are not in good condition, but those furnished by private parties are well fitted for service, and we have much reason to be thankful for the generosity of these gentlemen in supplying them for our use.

I have the good fortune to be mounted again upon Jack, the mule which was furnished by Mr. Gephardt for my former tour. He has now been purchased for the public service by Mr. Bennaton, in view of a commission which has been intrusted to him by the Minister of Agriculture, for a survey of routes from Campinas to Itu, and to Araraquara, with reference to the location of a railroad. After closing the present expedition, he expects to enter upon that service. This is a very important movement for the future prospects of any of our people who may locate near these places, but we cannot rely upon any thing definite being accomplished speedily for the improvement of transportation in that direction.

Upon leaving I called at the residence of Mr. Blackford, and got a Portuguese and English Testament for Dr. Shaw, and, on offering to pay for it, he told me that payment would be received in farina when business was commenced in this country, or, in other words, it was a present.

We halted for the night at the Ponte Cretia, where the establishment and the feminine tenant gave but little promise of comfort. Corn, however, for our animals, and supper of chicken and rice for ourselves, with tolerable beds, reconciled us to the necessity of the situation. In driving the animals to a pasture in the dark, a horse fell over a precipice and was left for the night.

TUESDAY, _December 19, 1865_.

After getting a cup of coffee and having corn given to the stock, we got off from Ponte Cretia at 7 o’clock this morning. The horse being extricated from the ravine proved to be but slightly injured, and all moved on towards Itu. A number of trains of pack-mules were passed, laden with cotton, some of the bales being marked three and a half arrobas, (one hundred and twelve pounds,) while others were marked three arrobas, (ninety-six pounds,) and larger in bulk than those observed from other parts of this province. These bales correspond very much to the bales of Osnaburg, seen in South Carolina and Georgia, being, however, a little longer and not so broad. They are enclosed in bagging, with the sipo vine used instead of ropes.

We met on the road Colonel Fortunato José de Camargo, who resides near Faxina, and is engaged largely in raising horses, mules and cattle.

Mr. Auburtin informs me that he owns eighty (80) square leagues of territory, being the largest landowner in the province.

Our weather-protectors were brought into requisition to-day to keep off the shower of rain.

We stopped early in the day at the fazenda of Senor Joaquim José de Silva, some two miles from the main road, where every thing needful was provided for us.

We saw here a patch of tea-plants which had evidently grown well, but was now neglected. The seed are round, of the size of a small acorn, and three in each pod.

Cotton which had produced a crop last year was again growing well, after being cut off near the ground.

Corn is also looking vigorous, and promises a good yield. All this land is very steep and hilly.

WEDNESDAY, _December 20, 1865_.

After our horses and mules came from the pasture this morning, it was observed that some of them had blood upon their necks, caused from the bites of the bat, known as the vampire, that not unfrequently attacks animals at night, and fixes itself upon a vein of the neck.

Being supplied with an early breakfast, we took leave of Senor Silva and his two good-looking daughters, who were seen then for the first and only time during our visit. His son went with us to the Freguezia Avasariquama, or Piedede, avoiding the steep hills by which we had approached on the day previous.

One league beyond this place we reached the margin of the Tieté, and proceeded along it by a very fair road fifteen or sixteen miles, when we turned to the left, and reached the city of Itu at 6 o’clock in the evening.

This region of country is very irregular and even mountainous, yet we found cane growing well, and also a good prospect for corn and rice. The river is not suited for navigation, and the settlements on both sides depend upon the road we travelled for sending their products to market by carts or pack-mules.

We made a halt of three and a half hours during the heat of the day at the inn of Verzinha, getting dinner and refreshing our animals.

Upon reaching the town of Itu the urgent thirst of some of the party was satisfied with beer, after which we repaired to the elegant and extensive establishment of the Baron of Perecicaba. I was sorry that his son, Antonio Paez de Barros, had left home, as my acquaintance with him would have enhanced the pleasure of the visit.

The old gentleman, however, received us with the greatest cordiality, and tendered us any thing he could do or furnish for our comfort. Leaving Mr. Auburtin to talk with the baron, the rest of us strolled out to the extensive fruitery, which is nearly a mile in length, and filled with a great variety of trees and vines.

The best quality of pine apple, called Abacashi, is growing here abundantly. Oranges, bananas, jaboticabas, pomegranates, figs, peaches and apples all grow here advantageously. There was a specimen of dwarf apple, spread over the ground like a small shrub, in the spaces between the other trees, and having a small, pleasant-tasted fruit. Upon inquiry I learned that this is a peculiar variety, and not the result of any special mode of culture.

Grapes of various kinds were growing vigorously in different parts of the grounds upon frames put up for the support of the vines. We enjoyed a delicious treat of these fine grapes.

The tea-plant was growing over a large area, and looks flourishing, affording a good article for table use. This shrub presents much the aspect of the boxwood tree, and from two to four of the tender leaves from each branch are picked off at each gathering of the crop.

Coffee likewise has a place in this collection of trees, but the soil has not that fertility which is requisite for a good yield, and manure is employed to give vigor to its growth.

The climate and soil of this region is regarded as particularly adapted to the yield of fruits.

Supper was announced at 9½ o’clock, and was of the most substantial order, with beer and wine.

Mr. Auburtin brought out his own black tea by permission.

THURSDAY, _December 21, 1865_.

After breakfast the Baron joined us in a ride to the Salto of the Rio Tieté, four miles distant.

This is an irregular water-fall, making quite a cascade at one point of perhaps twenty feet. The entire fall of water is about fifty feet, and the site is well suited for machinery of any magnitude that may be desired. A large cotton factory might be located here with a prospect of being supplied with raw material from the country below; and much of it could ascend the river in canoes or boats to the foot of this fall. There has been a small mill here upon a site that would warrant extensive works, with command of any amount of water-power, and the investment would doubtless pay handsomely.

A public highway is projected from this place to Jundiahi, the present terminus of the railway from Santos; and this distance of thirty miles with wagons and mules would not increase greatly the expenses on the products of a factory.

Upon pricing a lot of horses and mules which passed over the bridge while we were at the Salto, it was found they could be bought from twenty-five dollars a head to forty dollars a head, but none of them were above medium quality and many quite inferior.

In passing through the city of Itu we were shown an establishment in which an eighteen-saw cotton-gin was moved by a portable steam-engine; and there was in the building a thirty-saw gin idle which might have been brought into operation by the same power. There was also a small press in use, and I counted ten hands of various sizes employed around these little contrivances.

Mr. Auburtin was much interested in this cotton-cleaning and packing, as he is desirous of getting information as to the extent and nature of the attention bestowed upon the culture and treatment of the cotton in this and the neighboring sections.

It is important for the railroad interest that cotton shall be successfully cultivated in this region of country; and this gentleman, with others connected with the company, have done much in placing seed in the hands of planters and in encouraging the growth of this staple. His visit now, so far as I learn, has for its object the ascertaining of the wants of the planters with a view to facilitating their growth of cotton; and, as Major Meriwether has given him the benefit of his large experience in growing this staple in the Southern States, he may be able to enlighten the people of Brazil somewhat in his next article.

A number of gentlemen, among whom were two brothers of the Minister of Agriculture, accompanied our party this afternoon to the quarry (lapidarea) of flagstone within a mile of the city. There is an inexhaustible bed of crude slate, of which the pavements of Itu present fine specimens; and it is so firm that horses pass along the side-walks without damage. The slabs in the quarry may be made of any proportions desired, from the tile of a house-top to massive steps and columns. It is so smooth and regular as to require no polishing. While at the quarry we saw a huge block raised from the mass beneath by simply inserting crow-bars between the adjacent lamina of the stone. Different strata present different thicknesses of these lamina, suited to different objects.

The city of Itu is made up to a large extent by the residence of parties who own planting interests in the country around, and many of them owning houses here spend most of their time upon their fazendas, so that the population is not usually proportionate to the number of the houses. The buildings upon the main plaza have a fine appearance, with iron railings in many instances to the second-story balconies, which are ornamented with tasteful figures, gilding, &c. I am informed that a good dwelling may be rented here, with garden, fruit trees, &c., for less than a hundred dollars a year; and the health of the location has a widespread reputation. The people seen about this place have a genteel look, and are generally neatly dressed, which bespeaks a favorable feature of the society and the character of the inhabitants.

Our old friend the Baron presented each of our party with ear-picks and tooth-picks made by himself from the native wood of the country, and showed us a very old plain knife which was the only instrument used in making them. This may be considered the baron’s amusement, and by giving them to his friends he establishes a very close link of association, as these two articles are more directly personal than almost any thing else we use.

By the way, the habit of placing tooth-picks upon the table to be used after eating is a common usage of the best people throughout all this country; and the fancy stands for holding the wooden tooth-picks are generally of china, but very frequently of silver, and representing a peacock or other fowl.

FRIDAY, _December 22, 1865_.

Our energetic old friend, the Baron, being apprised of our wish to make an early move, gave us breakfast at 6 o’clock. For this we should doubtless feel under special obligations to his two daughters, who are inmates of the house at present. One is the wife of Senor Barros, at São Paulo, from whom I brought a letter to the Baron, and with whom I had travelled in the diligence in my first trip from Santos. The other daughter is a widow whose husband died a few years since.

These ladies present an intelligent expression, and not only graced the table with their presence on previous occasions, but even at this extra early hour.

Taking our leave of this pleasant family we set out for Porto Feliz, sixteen miles distant.

The lands on this route are quite thin, but the cotton is found to give a fair yield; and many farmers, who could barely support their families formerly, have, by the cultivation of cotton, realized a good return. Our friend Mr. Auburtin has the credit of saving them from starvation by introducing the cotton seed into the country; and, as an old minister of the gospel told an abolitionist in by-gone years, that the negroes of the South were fed on cotton seed, so I tell him it is with these people. The amount and quality of the grass in this region does not warrant grazing farms, and yet the cattle seen on the roadside were generally in good order.

We reached the town of Porto Feliz at 11 o’clock A. M., and were hospitably received by Senor Angilo Custodo de Morais, who is a substantial and plain gentleman of much kindness of heart.

The houses here are extended upon one street for half a mile, and mostly one-story buildings, without much taste in their structure. The church is a large building of less antiquated style than most of those seen elsewhere, and, with a spacious open plaza in front of it, presents the most comely feature of the place.

We were informed that the best and most commodious houses in the town could be rented for three dollars or four dollars per month, and living in other respects is doubtless equally cheap. I observed in one store a very full assortment of all the variety of goods and utensils that are ordinarily found in one of our promiscuous country-stores, and on pricing various articles concluded that every thing was quite as cheap as in the United States.

Having need for some medicine to give Mr. Bennaton, I went to a druggist’s shop and was surprised to see the variety and cheapness of the various standard articles of the materia medica that are in common use.

The population is about fifteen hundred, and the health is said to be very good.

The town is located immediately upon the Rio Tieté, being, however, on an elevated bluff far above the level of the water. We visited the old port, which formerly was the point of embarkation for many persons descending the river, and the river is passable for large canoes from this point up to the Salto of Itu. Dr. Shaw and myself concluded to take a bath, and upon swimming across the stream it was found very swift and I was very much exhausted. As the Doctor did not undertake to cross, I called to him to meet me on my return, and, being a tall man, he waded into the stream as far as he could stand. The effort in swimming back had so completely exhausted me that he had to assist me in getting ashore. My muscles became cramped, and the current being very swift I could not resist it even when on my feet.

We observed here, what is very common at all the water-courses near the towns, a number of negro women in various stages of nudity, washing clothes. They don’t use tubs, nor do they often use pots to boil clothes; but, going into the stream with the articles, they are lashed into the water and scrubbed until they become clean. There is usually a preliminary soaking of twenty-four hours. Soap is used sparingly, and I have seen in many places the leaves of a bush used, which forms a lather, and serves the purpose of soap very, satisfactorily. A process of bleaching by exposure to the dew and sun alternately, for several days, is resorted to for the nicer linen garments, which gives them a very pretty, clear, white appearance; but the delay frequently proves a great annoyance to those who are needing their clothes.

The dorado is a fine, large fish, that is said to be abundant in this river, but we failed to have any opportunity of testing its qualities, nor did we see any other fish at this place.

We were called on by the Catholic priest, the vicar of this municipality, who is a mulatto of more than ordinary intelligence; but my prejudice to being associated with those having the negro blood could not be so entirely put aside as to make me feel at ease with this colored gentleman. His bearing was dignified and courteous, while he professes to be much pleased at the prospect of having our people to come into this province with their industrial arts. He is a native of Bahia, and I learn that there are many people in that section having a large admixture of the African blood.

The prevalent idea that the dark complexion of many of the people in this warm latitude is attributable to climate only needs observation to illustrate that the presence of negro blood is the source of the dark hue in most instances.

Natives of the country are seen whose skin is fair and white as elsewhere; and, though it is evident that the Portuguese race is not clear-skinned like the German, yet the absence of blue eyes, light hair and florid complexion is a very different thing from the tawny skin and curly hair so frequently observed here. Any unusual darkness of hue results from mixture of negro or Indian blood, rather than from the hot sun or the tropical climate.

In the case of the Spanish race, it is known that the pure Castilian is fair-skinned, with even a blond complexion, while the ordinary dark hue of the Spaniard is attributable to the mixture of Indian blood generally, and in some instances to the amalgamation with the negro element.

Mr. Auburtin told our host that we did not wish to wait for breakfast, but that a cup of coffee, with some bread and butter, and a few fresh eggs, would be acceptable.

SATURDAY, _December 23, 1865_.

Having disposed of the fresh eggs, &c., we set out for Epanema, and had considerable difficulty in ferreting out the paths in the absence of a guide who had engaged to conduct us to this place.

Some of the lands on this route of twenty miles were very good and yet were not under cultivation; while more inferior lands were planted in corn and cotton, with moderately good results.