Part 13

The heads of a king and bishop, projecting from the south side between the fourth and fifth piers, mark the point of change eastward: the masonry of piers, walls and aisle walls is in small courses of stone; westward, the blocks are larger, eastward, small human heads project at the angles of the pier-arches and westward there are none; eastward, the tympana of the triforium arcade are filled with carvings of grotesque animals and small heads at the corners, and westward, the tympana are filled with foliage and ornamented with larger heads. There are also other differences.

“Certainly it is an unusual instance of an architect deliberately setting himself to complete the works of an earlier period in faithful accordance with the original plan; and we may well be grateful to him for his modesty.

“All the carving is most interesting and beautiful: the caps and corbels of the vaulting shafts; the little heads at the angles of the arches, which are vivid sketches of every type of contemporary character; and the carvings in the tympana, which are best in the seventh, eighth and ninth bays (counting from the west end), those on the north excelling in design and execution, while those on the south are more grotesque. But the capitals of the piers are the best of all, and the most hurried visitor should spare some time for the study of these remarkable specimens of sculpture, vigorous and lifelike, yet always subordinated to their architectural purpose. Those in the transepts[4] are perhaps the best, but the following in the nave should not be missed:--

North side, Sixth Pier (by north porch): Birds pluming their wings: Beast licking himself: Ram: Bird with human head, holding knife (?).

“Eighth Pier. Fox stealing goose, peasant following with stick: Birds pruning their feathers. (Within Bubwith’s Chapel) Human monster with fish’s tail, holding a fish: Bird holding frog in his beak, which is extremely long and delicate.

“Ninth Pier. Pedlar carrying his pack on his shoulders, a string of large beads in one hand. Toothless monster with hands on knees.

“South side, Seventh Pier. Birds with human heads, one wearing a mitre.

“Eighth Pier. Peasant with club, seized by lion: Bird with curious foliated tail (within St. Edmund’s chapel). Owl: Peasant with mallet (?).”

If we look back towards the west end of the Nave we note an arcade of five arches, the middle one widest of all to accommodate the two small arches of the doorway. The three lancet windows are Perpendicular, remodelled, and some of their dogtooth moulding, medallions in the spandrels and little corbel heads of Early English work remain. There is a gallery below the sill of the window.

The two western towers form two small transepts that project beyond the aisles. Each is connected with the aisle by an arch. The Chapel of the Holy Cross under Bubwith’s Tower (north) is the choir-boys’ vestry. The chapel under Harewell’s Tower (south) is used by the bell-ringers. An Early English doorway leads from it into the Cloister.

“The nave, as far as the piers of the central tower, consists of ten bays, divided by octangular piers, with clustered shafts in groups of three. The capitals are enriched with Early English foliage, much of which is of unusually classical character,--one of the many indications of a lingering local school, with its Norman traditions. Birds, animals and monsters of various forms--among which is the bird with a man’s face, said to feed on human flesh--twine and perch among the foliage. Above the pier arches runs the triforium, very deeply set, and extending backward over the whole of the side aisles. The roof retains its original position. (The whole arrangement should be compared with the Norman triforia of Norwich and Ely, both of which extend over the side-aisles; but their exterior walls have been raised and Perpendicular windows inserted). The narrow lancet openings toward the nave are arranged in groups of three, with thick wall-plates between them. The head with each lancet is filled with a solid tympanum, displaying foliage and grotesques, of which those toward the upper end of the south side are especially curious. At the angles of the lancets are bosses of foliage and human heads, full of character. In the upper spaces between each arch are medallions with leafage. Triple shafts, with enriched capitals, form the vaulting-shafts, the corbels supporting which deserve examination. A clerestory window (the tracery is Perpendicular, and was inserted by Bishop Beckington (1443-1464)) opens between each bay of the vaulting, which is groined, with moulded ribs and bosses of foliage at the intersections.”--(R. J. K.)

In the clerestory of the sixth bay on the south side there is a =Music Gallery=, early Perpendicular, the front of which consists of three panels with large quartrefoils containing shields. It is very fine, but not equal to the Minstrels’ Gallery in Exeter. It is finished with an embattled cornice.

The aisles of the Nave are of the same architectural character as the Nave itself. Among the striking capitals are:

Fifth shaft. Peasants carrying sheep, with a dog.

Ninth shaft. Man in a rough coat carrying foliage on his back.

Tenth shaft. Mason carrying a hod of mortar and a mallet; opposite side of arch: Peasant in hood with staff and opposite this two heads, evidently with toothache.

The greater part of the glass of the =West Window= was collected by Bishop Creyghton in 1660-1670, excellent Sixteenth Century representations of the history of _John the Baptist_. Possibly Creyghton added the figures of _King Ina_ and _Bishop Ralph_ in the other lights, for the southern one also bears his arms. The top and bottom of the middle light are said to have come from Rouen in 1813.

Now we will examine the =transepts=.

“The transepts seem to have been built before the nave, but some of the carved work of the capitals and corbels is of later date than the nave. The capitals on the west side of both transepts are among the finest in England. Many refer to the toothache.

“North Transept: first Pier.--(Inside the Priest Vicars’ vestry) A prophet(?) with scroll on which there is no name: Man carrying goose. (Outside) Head with tongue on teeth.

“Second Pier.--Aaron writing his name on a scroll: Moses with the tables of stone.

“Third Pier.--Woman with a bandage across her face. Above this cap the corbel consists of a seated figure, naked, with distorted mouth and an agonised expression.

“South Transept, second pier (from the south end). Two men are stealing grapes, one holds the basket full, the other plucks grapes, holding a knife in his other hand: The farmers in pursuit, one carries a spade and

the other a pitchfork: The man with the fork, a vigorous figure, catches one thief: The man with the spade hits the other (whose face is most woe-begone) on the head.

“Third pier.--Woman pulling thorn out of her foot: Man with one eye, finger in his mouth: Baboon head: Cobbler; this figure shows very plainly the method of shoemaking at this time; the cobbler in his apron, sits with the shoe on one knee, his strap passes over the knee and round the other foot, his foot is turned over so as to present the side and not the sole to the strap: Woman’s head with long hair.

“Fourth pier.--Head perfectly hairless: Elias P. (the prophet) with hand on cheek as if he, too, has the toothache: Head in hood, with tongue on the one remaining tooth.

“It may be well here to say a word about the general classification of these earlier capitals, since their date is a matter of great architectural interest. I would venture to divide them into five groups--

“(1) Those of the three western bays of the choir: simple carved foliage of distinctly Norman character, as in the north porch: these belong to the time of Reginald (1174-1191).

“(2) The four eastern bays of the nave and its aisles. Some of these may belong to the first period, though later than the choir: they are more advanced in the foliage, and teem with grotesque birds and beasts. Some, however, of the caps in these bays are of quite different character; they contain _genre_ subjects of perfectly naturalistic treatment, very different to the St. Edmund of the north porch capital; but exactly similar to the figure caps of the transepts. They must therefore have been carved later than the death of Saint William Bytton.

“(3) The western bays of the nave. These, which are of much less interest, belong to the period of Jocelin’s reconstruction (1220-1242). They are characteristic examples of rich stiff-leaf foliage, freer than that of the earlier work, but much less varied and without either human figures or grotesques.

“(4) On the eastern range of transept piers. These would seem also to come within Jocelin’s period, with the exception of the third pier of the south transept.

“(5) On the western range of transept piers, with which must be classed those later caps already referred to in the nave under group 2. Their date is settled by the fact that they abound in unmistakable representations of the toothache. Now Saint William Bytton died in 1274, and his tomb became immediately famous for cures of this malady. In 1286, the chapter decided to repair the old work, no doubt because the offerings at his tomb had brought money to the church.”--(P. D.)

In studying these fascinating grotesques, however, we have neglected to examine the two chantries in the nave--=Bishop Bubwith’s= and =Dean Sugar’s=. They are opposite one another and are alike in general characteristics. The screen work and cornices of Bubwith’s composed of light and elaborate tracery are very much admired. Light doorways permit entrance. The altar here was dedicated to St. Saviour. Bishop Bubwith (who built the north-west tower) died in 1424. His arms, containing holly-leaves, are beautifully carved.

Sugar’s Chantry, about sixty years later in date, is even more elaborate. Like Bubwith’s, it is hexagonal and the canopy over the altar is vaulted with delicate fan-tracery. Critics now consider it the finer of the two.

Adjoining Sugar’s Chantry the stone =Pulpit=, built in the reign of Henry VIII., calls for attention. In front are the arms of Bishop Knight, who built it and who is buried near it (he died in 1547). Beside it, is a brass lectern presented in 1660; upon this rests a Bible of the same date.

In the =South transept=, we find the =Font=, interesting because it is the one relic of Bishop Robert’s Norman church. It may have stood in the earlier Saxon cathedral. The cover is Jacobean.

In the south end of the south transept is the =Tomb of Bishop de Marchia= (died 1302). The effigy of the bishop, lying in a recess under a canopy bristling with crockets and finials and brilliant with scarlet and crimson, green and gold, is very striking. Some of the angels surrounding the figure are charming. It is interesting to compare this with the =Tomb of Lady Lisle=, also adorned with crockets and brightly coloured.

Perpendicular stone screens divide the transepts from their small chapels. The chapels of the south transept are =St. Martin’s= (now the canon’s vestry) and that of =St. Calixtus=, enclosed on the side of the choir-aisle by some beautiful ironwork from Beckington’s tomb. On the south side of St. Calixtus’s chapel we must pause to examine =Dean Husse’s tomb=, of alabaster, and noted for its carved panels even in this cathedral of splendid carvings.

=St. David’s Chapel= in the =north transept= compels us to pause again to look at the capital of the second transept pier--a handsome head with curls and a smile on his face--and a fine corbel carved into the form of a lizard eating leaves of a plant with berries. In this chapel lies an interesting effigy of =Bishop Still= (1543-1607) in a red robe lined with white fur. Next comes the =Chapel of the Holy Cross= in which is the =tomb of Bishop Cornish= (died 1513), thought also to have been used as the Easter Sepulchre, where the Host was laid during Holy Week.

The north transept contains a relic of the past that delights every one who happens to be there at the striking of the hour. The famous clock that once belonged to Glastonbury Abbey is still in working order. A little figure known locally as “Jack Blandiver” kicks the quarters with his heels on two little bells and at the hour four figures on horseback above the clock rush around and charge each other. The curious clock was made by Peter Lightfoot, a monk of the abbey. It was said to have been in constant use at Glastonbury for 250 years before it was removed to Wells at the Dissolution of the monasteries.

From the east aisle of the north transept a door opens to the =Staircase= that leads to the Chapter-House and also to the celebrated Chain-Gate, or carved bridge that connects the Vicars’ College with the Cathedral. Through this gallery the Vicars could pass from their own Close into the Cathedral. The common hall of their college (1340) opens from it.

“There are few things in English architecture that can be compared with it for strange impressive beauty; the staircase goes upward for eighteen steps and then part of it sweeps off to the Chapter-house on the right, while the other part goes on and up till it reaches the chain-bridge; thus the steps lie, worn here and there by the tread of many feet, like fallen leaves, the last of them lost in the brighter light of the bridge. Here one is still almost within the cathedral, and yet the carts are passing underneath, and their rattle mixes with the sound of the organ within.

“The main gallery of the Chain-Gate is shut off by a door, which, if it were kept open, would make the prospect even more beautiful than it is. Two corbels which support the vaulting-shafts of the lower staircase should be noticed; they both represent figures thrusting their staves into the mouth of a dragon, but that on the east (wearing a hood and a leathern girdle round his surcoat) is as vigorous in action as the figure on the west side is feeble. A small barred opening in the top of the east wall lights a curious little chamber, which is reached from the staircase that leads to the roof.”--(P. D.)

The =Chapter-House= is famous among these beautiful adjuncts to English cathedrals. It has been called “a glorious development of window and vault.” It was built in the latter half of the Geometrical period (1280-1315). Note the profusion of ball-flower ornament round the windows and the ogee dripstones outside.

“Of octagonal plan, its vaulting ribs branch out from sixteen Purbeck shafts which cluster round the central pillar, typifying the diocesan church with all its members gathered round its common father, the bishop. Each of the eight sides of the room is occupied by a window of four lights, with graceful tracery of an advanced geometrical type. These windows, which are among the finest examples of the period, have no shafts, but their arch mouldings are enriched with a continuous series of the ball-flower ornament. Most of the old glass in which ruby and white are the predominant colours, remains in the upper lights. Under the windows runs an arcade which forms fifty-one stalls, separated into groups of seven by the blue lias vaulting-shafts at the angles, but in the side which is occupied by the doorway there are only two stalls, one on either side of the entrance. Two rows of stone benches are under the stalls, and there is a bench of Purbeck round the base of the central pier.”--(P. D.)

Another authority says:

“At the springs of the arches are sculptured heads full of expression, kings, bishops, monks, ladies, jesters; and at the angles, grotesques of various kinds. A line of the ball-flower ornament is carried round above the canopies.

“The double arches at the entrance show traces of a door on the exterior. Remark the curious boss in the vaulting, composed of four bearded faces. The diameter of the chapter-house is fifty feet, its height forty-one feet. Its unusual, and indeed unique, features are--its separation from the cloisters from which the chapter-house generally opens; and its crypt, or lower story, which rendered necessary the staircase by which it is approached.

“A most striking view of the chapter-house is obtained from the fourth angle of the staircase, close to the doorway of the Vicars’ College. The effect of the double-door arches with their tracery, of the central pier, the branched ribs of the vaulting, and the fine windows is magnificent; and when the latter were filled with stained glass, must have been quite unrivalled. The chapter-house is by no means the least important of the many architectural masterpieces which combine to place Wells so high in the ranks of English cathedrals.”--(R. J. K.)

The =Crypt=, finished by 1286, represents the last development of the Early English style. It was used as the treasury where valuables were kept. It is reached by a dark passage from the north-choir-aisle. The odd corbels should be noted. The walls are very thick, the windows narrow with wide splays and the vaulting-ribs spring from round and massive pillars with much effect. This Crypt is unusually high, because the many springs at Wells would not permit of a subterranean chamber.

But again we have been led astray from the main body of the Cathedral. Returning the same way, we again enter the north transept and stand beneath the splendid fan-tracery vault of the tower, a vault, beautiful as it is, that hides the lantern with its arcades. These, however, can be seen during the ascent of the tower.

The =Screen= dates from the Fourteenth Century.

“The first impression on entering the choir will not readily be forgotten. Owing to the peculiar and most beautiful arrangement of the Lady-chapel and the retro-choir, to the manner in which the varied groups of arches and pilasters are seen beyond the low altar screen, to the rich splendours of the stained glass, to the beautiful architectural details of the choir itself, and to the grace and finish of the late restorations, it may safely be said that the choir of no English cathedral affords a view more impressive or more picturesque. It is difficult to determine whether the effect is more striking at early morning, when the blaze of many-coloured light from all the eastern windows is reflected upon the slender shafts of Purbeck and upon the vaulted roof, or at the late winter services, when the darkened figures of saints and prophets in the clerestory combine with the few lights burning at the choristers’ stalls to add something of mystery and solemn gloom to the maze of half-seen aisles and chapels.

“The first three piers and arches of the choir are Early English, of the same character as those of the nave and transepts, and are probably the work of Bishop Jocelin. The remaining portion, including the whole of the vaulting as well as the clerestory above the first three bays, is very rich early Decorated (geometrical) and deserves the most careful study.

“The tabernacle work and the window tracery of the first three bays, although of the same date, are less rich than those of the eastern half of the choir. In this latter portion remark the triple banded shafts of Purbeck, carried quite to the roof as vaulting-shafts, and the tabernacle-work occupying the place of the triforium, deeper and wider than in the lower bays. Under each arch is a short triple shaft, supporting a bracket richly carved in foliage. The sculpture of the capitals and of these brackets is very good and should be noticed. The foliage has become unconventional, and has evidently been studied from nature. Its diminutive character, as compared with the Early English work in the nave, is very striking.

“The east end of the choir is formed of three arches divided by slender piers above which is some very rich tabernacle-work, surmounted by an east window of unusual design. At the back of the altar, and between the piers, is a low diapered screen, beyond which are seen the arches and stained windows of the retro-choir and Lady-chapel.”--(R. J. K.)

The stone vault is unusual, a sort of “coved roof,” Freeman calls it, “with cells cut in it for the clerestory windows.”

The three western bays are Bishop Reginald’s of the Twelfth Century. Here we are in the very oldest part of the Cathedral. Triple vaulting-shafts of Purbeck marble are carried down to the floor.

“The clerestory windows contain flowing tracery of an advanced and not very good type. In some the plain mullions are carried on through the head of the window and intersect each other. Above the tabernacle-work of the east end is the EAST WINDOW of seven lights, the last bit of the Fourteenth Century reconstruction, the last flicker of Decorated freedom. Its curious tracery is still beautiful, doubly so for the glass it enshrines, but the rule and square of Perpendicular domination have already set their mark upon it; the two principal mullions run straight up to the window head, and part of the tracery between them is rectangular.”--(P. D.)

The Cathedral possesses sixty-four =Misericords=, from the old choir-stalls, regarded as among the best examples of mediæval wood-carving in England. The skilful hand of the carver has wonderfully represented griffins fighting, mermaids, apes, goats, dragons, wyverns, popinjays, cats, foxes, peacocks, monsters, angels, eagles, hawks, rabbits, kings, peasants--and many other birds, animals and grotesques.

The soft yet brilliant light sifts in from the =Jesse Window= above the high altar. We lift our eyes and with some pains discern the twining branches of the vine with the recumbent figure of Jesse at the base, resting his head on his hand. From him rises the leading shoot of the tree, with the figures of the Virgin and the Child each with radiant nimbus and beneath a golden canopy. The tendrils of the vine enwreath prophets, priests and kings,--the ancestors of the Babe of Bethlehem. Above is a representation of the _Crucifixion_; and at the very

top of the window, the outstretched wings of the Holy Spirit.

The choir-aisles are of the same character as the choir itself and are entered from the transepts through ogee arches, ornamented with crockets and finials.

The south-choir-aisle contains the =Tomb of Saint William Bytton=, at which (the oldest incised slab in England) offerings were made by those suffering from toothache, as we have already seen. Further away is the =Tomb of Beckington=, surrounded by a beautiful iron-screen of the same date as the tomb (1452). The carving is very fine, especially the wings of the angels. A little colour is left here and there. His effigy rests upon it, with old and wrinkled face. This bishop said mass for his own soul here in January, 1452, thirteen years before he died.

In the south-east transept, we find the =Chapel of St. John Baptist=, where a Decorated piscina with canopy deserves attention.