Chapter 2

Start the waxed tying silk (See Diagram 4, page 21) 1/8" from eye of hook, Fig. 1. Wind tying silk (A) down shank of hook, and with last two turns tie in tag material (B) Fig. 2. Tags (see diagram 1) usually represent the egg sac on the female of the species. Chenille, wool, gold, silver, silk, herl, or various other materials are used for tags. (Ribbing, if used, is tied in just before the tag material.) Tie in tail (C) Fig. 3 (see Fig. 4 Bucktail, Diagram 3, page 15, for directions, how to hold the tail. Take from one to four turns with the Tag Material (B) around the hook, take a couple of turns with tying silk (A) around the loose end of (B) and cut off (B) as Fig. 4. Take about three or four turns towards the eye of the hook with (A), with two more turns tie in the body material (D) Fig. 4. Wind (A) back to the starting point, take a half hitch and let hang. Wind body material (D) to where (A) was left hanging. Wind (D) back and forth several times to form a tapered body, fasten with two or three turns and a half hitch with (A) Fig. 5. Next take hackle (E), and strip off soft web fibers on dotted line, Fig. E. Hold hackle {23} (E) by the tip with thumb and finger of the left hand, with the shiny side of the hackle to the right, place the butt diagonally under the hook and take four or five tight turns and a half hitch with (A) Fig. 6. Be sure that the hackle is tied on edgewise with the shiny side to the front. Now grasp the tip of the hackle with the hackle pliers and wind four or five turns clockwise around the hook. If the hackle starts winding edgewise it will go on without any trouble, if not better take it off and try again until you get the knack of tying the butt in at just the right angle. Take three or four turns over the hackle tip with (A) and clip off the tip close as Fig. 7. With the thumb and finger of the left hand, reach from under the hook and pull all the fibers down to the bottom, take three or four turns over them with (A) towards the barb of the hook, to hold them in place, and to keep them pointing well back, as Fig. 8. Next take a pair of matched (one right and one left) turkey, goose, or other wing feathers, Fig. A, and cut a section from each about 1/4" wide, place the two sections with tips even and concave sides together as Fig. B. Cut off the butt ends to the right length, that is so that the tips come even, or a little beyond the bend of the hook. Place on top of hook as Fig. 9 and tie on the same as previously explained in tying hair on Bucktails (Diagram 3, page 15, Figs. 4 and 10). Finish off with a smooth tapered head, two or three half hitches {24} and a couple of coats of good head lacquer, Fig. 10. Many patterns are tied palmer, that is the hackle is wound the whole length of the body. Many of the dry flies are tied this way, especially the Bi-visibles. To tie a palmer hackle, prepare the hackle by holding the tip of the hackle between the thumb and finger of the left hand, and with the thumb and finger of the right hand, stroke the fibers back so that they point towards the butt, instead of towards the tip, Fig. C, Diagram 4. With the shiny side of the hackle up, strip off the fibers from the bottom side as Fig. D. Now tie the hackle in by the tip as Fig. 11. Make the body the same as before. Wind the hackle spirally around the body and tie off the butt, Fig. 12. To make the hackle more full near the head, one or more hackles are tied in at the same time as Figs. 6 and 7, the palmer hackle is wound to within 1/8" of the eye and the butt tied in and cut off the same as the tip was cut off Fig. 7.

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DRY FLIES

Start winding waxed tying silk (See Diagram 5, page 28) (A) about 1/8" from the eye of the hook, take three or four turns towards the bend of the hook and cut off end, Fig. 1, Diagram 5. Cut a section about 1/4" wide from a right and one from a left wing feather, as Fig. A Diagram 4, page 21 (duck wings are best for dry flies). Place convex sides together (just the reverse of Fig. B, Diagram 4). Do not cut off the butt ends, instead straddle the hook as Fig. 2, Diagram 5. Hold between the thumb and finger of the left hand as already explained in Figs. 4 and 10, Diagram 3, page 15. Tip the wings (B) forward so that they stand about perpendicular to the shank, and pull down loop, Fig. 3, as explained in Diagram 3, Fig. 4. Take one more turn with (A) around the wings (B) in front as Fig. 4 and before loosening the grip with the left hand take two turns around the hook close in back of the wings (B), Fig. 5. Next pull the butt ends back tightly as Fig. 6, take two tight turns around them with (A) and cut off on dotted line as Fig. 6. Cross (A) between wings (B) to spread them, and wind tying silk (A) down shank of the hook as Fig. 7.

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From now on the body is made as previously explained, so for the sake of variation we will tie a band in the centre, the same as a Royal Coachman. Tie in tail (C) Fig. 8. Tie in two or three strands of peacock herl (D) Fig. 9 with (A) and wind (A) four or five turns towards the eye of the hook. Take three or four turns with herl (D). Tie in two strands of silk floss (E) Fig. 10, take a few more turns with (A) over the loose ends of (D) towards the eye of the hook. Wind silk floss (E) over the herl about half way up the hook. Take a turn or two around silk floss (E) with (A) and cut off end of (E) as Fig. 11. Carry (A) up to the front of the wings. Finish body with herl (D) wound tight against the back of the wings. (This helps to push the wings forward and to hold them in place.) Tie off herl (D) with (A) Fig. 12. The next step of putting on the hackle (F) is done the same as Fig. 6, Diagram 4, page 21. But here the hackle is much more important than on the wet fly. The floating qualities of a dry fly depend entirely upon stiff neck hackle of the proper size. (Use Hackle Chart.) Sometimes two hackles are used, these are laid together, and both butts tied in at the same time. One hackle of the proper size and stiffness is usually enough, so we will use one tied in as Fig. 13 and explained in Fig. 6, Diagram 4, page 21. Clip the hackle pliers to the tip of hackle (F) and wind about two turns edgewise in front of the wings, wind two turns close {31} in back of the wings. Take two or three more turns in front of the wings, all the while keeping the hackle edgewise, with the shiny side towards the eye of the hook. Wind the hackle close so as not to fill up the eye of the hook and to leave room for the head. Tie in the tip with a couple of turns of (A) Fig. 14. The hackle should now be standing straight out from the hook, with the most of it in front of the wings. Shape a tapered head with (A). (Head should be about 1/16" long on a size 12 hook.) Finish with two or three half hitches and a drop of head lacquer, Fig. 15.

Various feathers are used for wings of dry flies, such as breast feathers from mallard, teal; partridge, grouse, black duck, wood duck. Hackle tips, starling, duck, turkey, goose, pheasant, wing feathers, etc.

Two whole feathers of the proper size, with the natural curve are used for fan wings. The tips of two feathers, or a section may be cut from two matched feathers. All of these wings are tied on in the same manner as previously explained. See Diagram 2 for flies tied with different style wings.

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NYMPHS AND THEIR CONSTRUCTION

NYMPHS

Nymphs are larvae of all aquatic insects. Together with minnows, crawfish, etc., they represent about ninety per cent of the trout's regular diet. Considering this fact, it is obvious that nymphs will take trout throughout the entire season. It will greatly surprise the novice to learn of the great amount of underwater insect life present in any stream. Next time you go fishing, hold your landing net close to the bottom, in a foot or so of fast water. Reach upstream and loosen the stones and gravel. Raise your landing net, and notice the numerous nymphs that have been washed from under the stones, and have attached themselves to your net. Better still, make a screen about two feet square, from regular 14 mesh window screening. Hold this in the water, and have your fishing partner go upstream, and with a regular garden rake, or some such tool, rake up the bottom, turning over the stones and gravel. This way you can capture many nymphs. Put them in glass bottles, take them home, and make copies of them. When next you {33} go fishing open the first trout you catch, examine the contents of its stomach, and determine which of the copies you have made is the proper nymph or fly for the occasion. To fish with an imitation of the fly or nymph upon which they are feeding, will result in a heavier creel.

When nymph fishing it is important to use a long, finely tapered leader. A 4x is about right. Fish in the same waters, and very much the same way as with a dry fly except that the nymph is allowed to sink. Fish upstream, or up and across the current. In the ripples. Around boulders. At the edge of fast water. Let the nymph drift with the current. Follow it with your rod tip, and be prepared to set the hook at the least hesitation of the line. Trout will sometimes take a drifting nymph and eject it, without being felt on the most delicate rod, so be ever on the alert when nymph fishing. A nymph fished down stream, and retrieved with slow, short jerks, will often work very well. When fished in this manner, trout will strike quite hard, and usually hook themselves.

There are times when trout are rolling on the surface and it seems impossible to take them on anything. It is then that they are usually feeding on nymphs, just under the surface. I remember one such time on the Housatonic River in Connecticut last summer. Just at dark, I was standing knee deep in very fast water. Trout {34} were breaking all around me. I knew, they were feeding on nymphs, and tried in every way to catch them. The water was so fast, it was impossible to keep the nymph just the right depth below the surface. I tried every trick that I knew, but could not get a strike. Finally reaching my hand in my pocket, I discovered several large buckshot. Removing the nymph from the tip of the leader, I attached five of these large shots, to the very tip of the leader, with a piece of 3x gut tippet about four inches long. I connected the nymph to the leader about sixteen inches from the tip. Within the next few minutes I took several nice trout, within rod's length of where I was standing. What actually happened, the lead was so heavy that it immediately sank straight to the bottom, and my taut line held the nymph suspended about two inches below the surface. The short gut between the nymph and the leader allowed the nymph to quiver much as the natural was doing. All the various common nymphs can be faithfully copied, by learning to tie the various styles of those herein illustrated. Simply alter the sizes, and color combinations, according to those found in the waters where you fish.

Remember nearly all the nymphs have flat bodies, and dark backs. The bodies may be flattened by thoroughly lacquering them, and when nearly dried squeezing them flat with an ordinary pair of pliers; or by {35} cutting a piece of quill the shape of the body from a turkey or goose wing. Bind this on top of the hook for the foundation of the body, and build the body over this. When finished, lacquer the entire body.

Most any body materials that are used for the making of other flies can be used; however, wool is mostly used for nymphs. Silk floss wound over a quill foundation and then lacquered, makes a very smooth, realistic body.

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THEIR CONSTRUCTION (SEE DIAGRAM 6)

Start tying silk (A) an eighth of an inch from the eye of the hook and wind closely down shank, as previously done with bucktails, wet flies etc. Next cut a section (B) from a grey goose wing feather about one eighth inch wide, and tie on top of the hook as Fig. 1. This is to make the tail and also the back of the nymph. Bend (B) back and take a turn or two with (A) in front as Fig. 2. Tie in the ribbing (c) close to (B) Fig. 3. Next tie in body material (D) close to (C) Fig. 4. Wool yarn makes the best body material for this style nymph. Now finish the body as for a wet fly, Fig. 5, then pull (B) tightly over the top, finish off as Fig. 6. This makes a sort of hard shell over the back. Next turn the hook upside down in the vise, and lay {37} three horse hairs across, just in back of where the head is to be made, crisscross (A) between the hairs to spread them and make them look like legs, and your nymph should look like Fig. 7. Nymphs of this style as well as Figs. 8, 9, 10, 14 and 15 look more natural if the bodies are flattened. Fig. 8 is tied nearly the same as Fig. 7, the difference being that (C) and (D) are both wound over (B) about two-thirds of the length of the body, then (B) is turned back, the body finished as before, (B) brought forward loosely to form the humpbacked wing case, and (B) being cut off as was done with Fig. 6, and instead of the butt end of (B) being cut off as was done with Fig. 6 it is split by crisscrossing (A) through it to form small wings as Fig. 8. Fig. 9 is made in the same way except that several strands of peacock herl is used for the dark back, tail, and feelers.

Fig. 10 is a very effective nymph, the body made entirely of natural raffia (soaked in water before using), with black hair used for the tail and feelers The body coated with lacquer as before mentioned and pressed flat when dry; paint the back with dark brown or black lacquer.

Fig. 11 is made by close wound palmer hackle cut off on dotted lines. Fig. 12 is a fur body, made by spinning rabbit's fur or other fur on waxed tying silk and ribbing with gold; the tougher this nymph looks the more effective it seems to be. Fig. 13, the Caddis {38} worm can be more naturally reproduced with a common rubber band than any other way I know. Get a dirty, white, rubber band about 1/8" wide, taper one end for about 1/2". Lay two horse hairs lengthwise on top of the hook for the feelers, wind tying silk over them down the hook, tie in the rubber band by the very tip of the taper, wind the tying silk back to the starting point, and be sure that the tying silk is wound smoothly. If not, any roughness will show through the rubber band. Wind the rubber band tightly to about 1/4" back of the eye. Wind back down and take one turn under the horsehair at the tail end, wind up to the head and tie off with the tying silk. This now makes three thicknesses of the rubber band. Form a large head with the tying silk, fasten securely and you have a very realistic Caddis worm. Fig. 14 is tied about the same as Fig. 7, with a considerable amount of speckled mallard, and peacock herl used for both the front and back feelers as well as the legs.

Fig. 15. The Damsel Nymph has a body of dark grey wool with a back of dark brown or black lacquer. Wings, small red-brown wood duck breast feathers, feelers dark brown hackle, and a large black head.

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THE HELGRAMITE (SEE DIAGRAM 7)

The Helgramite Nymph, larva of the Dobson Fly, is such an excellent bass and trout food, that the making of this nymph deserves special mention. As my personal way of making this particular nymph differs considerably from those previously explained, I consider it advisable to go into further details concerning the construction of this pattern.

I personally like the winged style. That is, with small imitation wings and horns, or feelers. This represents the nymph in its final underwater stage, just before emerging from the water as the Dobson Fly. I find black skunk tail the most satisfactory material for the body of this nymph. Either light grey swan sides, or light grey pigeon breast feathers for the wing and legs.

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First wind the waxed tying silk up the shank of the hook beginning opposite the barb. Clip the fibers closely from a couple of hackle feathers. These are to form the horns. Bind these hackle quills to the top of the hook, so that the tip ends project about 1 1/2" in front of the eye. Take a bunch of black skunk tail about the size of a match and bind it to the top of the hook, with tip ends towards the eye of the hook as in Diagram 7, Fig. 1. Next fold the hair forward and bind down tightly as in Fig. 2. Again fold the hair back and tie down as in {41} Fig. 3. Then again as in Fig. 4. Notice that each time the hair is folded back upon itself and tied down, that it forms a segment of the body, and that each segment increases in size, until your nymph looks like Fig. 5. At this stage turn the nymph over and tie a piece of light grey feather about 1/8" wide across the bottom, separate the fibers with the tying silk to form the legs. Now cut a small light grey pigeon feather with the centre quill, as dotted line in Fig. 6. Give this a coat of clear lacquer: when dry, tie flat, on the back of the nymph to form the first set of wings, as in Fig. 7. Cut another feather and treat the same way, tie these slightly forward of the first set of wings, and you have a Dobson Nymph that is very lifelike in appearance.

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BASS FLIES AND FEATHER STREAMERS

It will appear obvious from a study of Diagram 8, page (43) that the tying of bass flies and Feather Streamers differs so little from the tying of wet flies and bucktails that a detailed description will be unnecessary.

Bass flies are little more than large trout lies, the principal difference being the feathers that are used for the wings although the same feathers can be used as for trout flies. It is customary with commercial tiers to use two whole feathers for the wings, or the tips of two wings feathers, etc. Place the concave sides together and tie in the butt ends the same as for a wet fly. Bass flies to be used as spinner flies, that is, flies to be used with a spinner in front, should be tied on ring eyed hooks instead of hooks with turned down or turned up eyes.

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Certain patterns of these flies have for a long time been famous as salmon flies in northern New England and Canada and the past few years have seen them steadily growing in popularity with anglers of Connecticut, especially for Rainbow Trout. The feathers {45} that are used for wings are saddle hackles, and from four to eight feathers are used, hackles of the same size are selected, the tip ends placed even, and the concave sides of those used for the left side are placed next to the concave sides of those used for the right side, in other words, both the right and left side of the wing will be convex, or outside of the feather. Any of the standard pattern flies can be tied as streamers. Some of the patterns however, are very elaborate flies; the Supervisor, for instance, has wings of light blue with shorter feathers of green on each side, with peacock herl along each wing, polar bear hair, jungle cock shoulders, a silver body, and a red tag. This fly was developed a few years ago by Mr. Joseph Stickney, Supervisor of Wardens, State of Maine, to imitate the smelt, a natural salmon food. The original Supervisor did not have the jungle cock or the peacock heal. Mr. Stickney suggested the addition of these feathers to me last year, and I believe that this is now the approved dressing.

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FAMOUS BUCKTAIL AND FEATHER STREAMERS

SUPERVISOR: WINGS, Blue saddle hackle with polar bear hair, and peacock herl down each side. CHEEKS, green hackle tip and jungle cock. BODY silver. TAG, red wool.

TIGER: (light) WINGS, brownish yellow bucktail or red squirrel tail. BODY yellow chenille. TAG, gold. TAIL, barred wood duck. CHEEKS, jungle cock. THROAT, scarlet.

TIGER: (dark) WINGS, yellow bucketful. BODY peacock herl. TAG, gold. TAIL, barred wood duck. CHEEKS, jungle cock. Short red fin.

GREGG'S DEMON: WINGS, grizzly saddle hackle dyed brown. BODY, silver ribbed with gold. CHEEKS, jungle cock. TAIL, barred wood duck. TOPPING, golden pheasant crest. HACKLE, Orange.

JUNGLE PRINCESS: WINGS grizzly saddle hackle dyed yellow with large jungle cock. CHEEKS, blue chatterer. BODY gold tinsel. HACKLE, white.

GRIZZLY GREY: WINGS, grizzly saddle hackles. CHEEKS, jungle cock. TAIL, orange. BODY, silver tinsel. HACKLE, white bucktail.

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HIGHLAND BELLE: WINGS orange saddle hackles inside, grizzly saddle hackles outside. CHEEKS, jungle cock. BODY, gold tinsel ribbed with silver tinsel. HACKLE, white bucktail.

SPENCER BAY SPECIAL: WINGS blue saddle hackles inside with furnace saddle hackles outside. CHEEKS, jungle cock. TAIL, golden pheasant tippet. BODY, silver tinsel ribbed with oval silver tinsel. HACKLE, yellow and blue mixed.

BLACK GHOST: WINGS, white saddle hackle. BODY, black silk floss ribbed with silver. CHEEKS, jungle cock. HACKLE, yellow.

GREY GHOST: WINGS, grey saddle hackle with peacock herl and white bucktail. BODY, orange floss ribbed with gold. CHEEKS, silver pheasant feather and jungle cock.

BROWN GHOST: WINGS, brown saddle hackle. BODY, brown floss ribbed with gold. CHEEKS, jungle cock. TOPPING, golden pheasant crest. TAIL, golden pheasant crest. HACKLE, yellow.

WARDEN'S WORRY: WINGS one red and one grizzly saddle hackle. HACKLE, yellow, tied very full.

WHITE MARIBOU: WINGS, white caribou. CHEEKS, large jungle cock and small red feather. TOPPING, golden pheasant crest.

YELLOW MARIBOU: WINGS, yellow caribou. CHEEKS, large Jungle cock and small red feather. TOPPING peacock herl. Two complete caribou feathers can be used, or sections of the feathers, depending upon the size of the hook. Size 4 long shank hook is a good size to tie them for salmon.

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FLOATING BUGS AND THEIR CONSTRUCTION

A style of fishing becoming more popular each year is that of Fly Rod fishing with Floating Bugs. These Bugs represents the large moth, butterfly, etc., and are constructed of a large variety of materials. Some have cork bodies. Some have Balsa Wood bodies. Others all hair bodies. Bodies covered with chenille, and other materials. One of the easiest to make and I believe one of the most successful styles, is entirely constructed from the body hair of the deer, reindeer, or caribou. All of these hairs are rather coarse and hollow consequently are very buoyant, and when properly made into a copy of the living insect, they have a soft, lifelike body that appears very natural when taken by a fish. These soft bodied Bugs are not so apt to be ejected before the Angler has time to set the hook, as are those with hard bodies.

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