Part 2

Chapter 22,114 wordsPublic domain

STIFFENING 1½″ FOR HEM BOTH SIDES UNDERSIDE OF MATERIAL

Turn drapery right side out and adjust hems on either side. Be sure seams are spread open. Press and pin. Turn top hem to underside. Pin and press. Turn and miter side hem. Cut out top hem even with stiffening and within 1″ of the top. Pin lining to hem, overlapping lower edge ½″. Side hem and mitered corner above the lining should be slip-stitched by hand; then slip-stitch lining to top hem. Press. Allow draperies to hang for 2 or 3 days before putting in lower hems. Then adjust length of drapery so that it clears the rug or floor. Turn edge under ½″; then turn hem width. If an allowance is made for a double hem, first turn to underside one-half the width allowed, then turn again the same width, enclosing first turn. Slip-stitch hem by hand or stitch by machine. The lining hem overlaps the drapery hem approximately 1″. Allowance is made for a 2″ hem with ½″ for seam. The lining hem hangs free of the curtain and is held in position with french tacks spaced about 12″ apart. To french tack, take 3 or 4 stitches first at top of drapery hem, then lining hem, then drapery hem, etc., leaving a ½″ or ¾″ length between. Blanket stitch over the full length of these strands of thread. Fasten thread at end of tack. Draperies should be anchored at top of return and lower side hems.

Use a _sew-on_ or _pin-on_ weight at bottom of center hems.

(See illustration at top of page 22.)

LINING TURNED BACK

LINING

When using a tape with woven-in pockets for pleater pins, allow 2″ above the rod for heading and seam. See instructions under the section _Unlined Draperies_ for joining tape to heading. Join lining; then clip and press seams. Turn drapery to right side and pin lining to bottom of tape, overlapping ¼″. Stitch and press; then finish side hems above lining by hand.

It is a good idea to tack the side hems along stitching line. This prevents them from slipping and hems always appear sharper. Using matching thread and working from the underside, insert needle through the seam down through to the right side, picking up a thread or two of the fabric. Then bring needle back up through the seam. Insert needle at the same point and direct needle along the seam between the hem a distance of 1″. Bring needle up through seam; then direct needle down through seam at same point, picking up two or three threads, and then up through seam again. Continue this tacking the length of the hem.

Drapery lined to top

There are times that draperies are lined to the top instead of using a hem, particularly when a valance or cornice board is used. To the length measurement, add 1½″ at the top for heading and seam. Cut lining in proportion. Stitch lining and drapery lengths together, bringing edges even at the top. Clip seam and press open. Cut stiffening the length of drapery width. Pin and stitch stiffening across the top, taking ½″ seam. Turn drapery right side out, enclosing heading. Press top and side hems. Finish hems at the bottom the same as for lined draperies.

Interlined Draperies

Draperies are often interlined, particularly in very formal rooms, or when the character of the material is such that the extra weight is necessary for its protection. Interlining also adds to the draping quality and elegance of the fabric.

For an interlining fabric, use good quality cotton flannel. Cut interlining the exact measurements of draperies when finished; that is, if draperies have 1½″ hems on each side and 3″ hems, top and bottom, then cut interlining 3″ narrower and 6″ shorter than drapery fabric. Spread material right side down.

3″ TACK DOWN THROUGH CENTER INTERLINING FOLDED LENGTHWISE FOR TACKING 1½″

UNDERSIDE OF MATERIAL INTERLINING

Fold interlining through lengthwise center. Place fold on exact center of drapery fabric and tack together loosely. Take a stitch in the drapery; bring needle up through fold of interlining and leave a loop. Space about 6″; take a stitch in drapery, then interlining, then drapery, etc. Do not pull thread taut. When row is finished, fold interlining halfway between center and edge on both sides and tack in the same manner, making three rows of vertical tacking.

Turn side hems back over interlining. Pin and baste. Then turn top and bottom hems. Pin and baste. Miter hems at corners. All hems may be catch-stitched to the interlining, and the lining slip-stitched to top and side hems. Linings may also be joined by machine. Turn hem and baste; then pin lining to drapery and stitch, taking ½″ seam. Press seam as stitched. Then clip and press seam open the same as for all lined curtains and draperies.

When lining is joined to drapery by machine, tack interlining and lining together along seam. Take stitch in seam, then in interlining. Space stitching 3″ or 4″ apart. Do not draw thread taut. Turn top and bottom hems and catch-stitch. Pin lining to hem across the top and slip-stitch. Turn hem in lining and stitch. Allowance should be made for a 2″ hem, overlapping the hem in drapery approximately 1″. Use french tacks between lining hem and drapery to hold lining in place. Use either ‘sew-on’ or ‘pin-on’ weight at bottom of side hems.

_Measuring for Pleats_

The use of pleats is one of the most effective ways of controlling the fullness of a drapery that is made to hang in balanced, graceful folds. The types most generally used are the pinch pleat, the French pleat, the box pleat and the cartridge pleat.

Pleats should be made in groups of uneven numbers, 5-7-9, or as many as are required to take up the amount allowed for fullness. For very sheer fabrics, the allowance for fullness should be 3 times the width of the window or space to be covered. To figure the spacings and amount to be taken up in pleats, take the measurement of the space to be covered plus the return; that is, the distance from turn of rod to the wall or the bracket supporting the rod on either end, plus the overlap at the center when curtains are drawn together. The width allowed for draperies minus these three measurements is to be taken up in pleats.

The fullness of each type of pleat and space between depends on the weight of the material and amount allowed for fullness of the curtain.

_For Example_: If one half of the width to be covered is 49″ then one section of the drapery would be about 144″ wide after finishing side hems. To width of window area (49″), add 3″ for return and 1″ for center overlap. This totals 53″. 144″ minus 53″ equals 91″ for pleats. Allowing 7″ for each pleat, 13 pleats will be required to take up the fullness.

Please Note—3″ for return is used as an example. The return can be 4″ or 5″, depending on type of rod or bracket. Always measure the return.

Steps to Pleats

Always measure and mark the exact position and width for all pleats and spacings before stitching.

Measure the width of the return from outer edge. Then measure for the first pleat at the curve of the rod. Place second pleat on opposite side 2″ from center edge. The third pleat is placed at the exact center between the first and second pleat. The remaining number of pleats required is evenly spaced between the 1st and 3rd and between the 2nd and 3rd pleats. To form pleats, bring markings for pleats together. Pin; then stitch from top to ¾″ below the heading, reversing the stitch at either end.

Doors or Windows Opening Out

Box Pleats, extending above the heading to form a loop, make an interesting treatment for unlined curtains draping a French window or door that opens out.

Draperies hang from a rod drawn through the loops. Fabrics, such as Fortisan blends, antique satin, taffetas and sheer linens are suitable for these curtains.

Measure from top of rod to floor for length. Add 9½″ at top for seam, loops, and facing and 6″ for a 3″ double bottom hem. Allow 3 times the width of space to be covered for fullness.

_Example_: If space to be covered is 52″, 3 lengths of 48″ fabric are required. Cut one length through center and join each half width to each one of the full widths. Each section measures approximately 70″. 70″ minus 4″ for 1″ double hems and 3″ for return equals 63″. 7 pleats × 5″ = 35″. 63″ minus 35″ = 28″ for space to be covered and center overlap.

Tie-Backs

Fabric tie-backs for draperies are usually tailored, straight or shaped bands which match or harmonize with the drapery in color and design. The fullness of the drapery determines the length of the tie-back. To estimate length, loop a strip of material around the drapery, drawing it back to side of window for the best effect. Lengths may vary from 18″ to 24″ and can be 2½″ or more in width. They are usually lined or faced and interlined. Use a stiffening of heavy muslin or crinoline in a shaped band. For shaped band, cut a paper pattern about 3″ or 4″ wide in the center, tapering to 2″ or 2½″ at the end as illustrated. Cut fabric, lining and stiffening the same as pattern, allowing for a ⅜″ seam on all edges.

Pin stiffening to underside of band, and lining to right side of material—right sides together. Stitch, leaving an opening of 3″ or 4″ for turning.

Trim stiffening to stitching line and blend edge of lining. Press. Turn band right side out and press. Slip-stitch lining to band at opening.

Sew small bone rings or very narrow fabric loops at ends of band. These loop over a hook fastened to side of window.

Anchoring Draperies

Outside edges of draperies should hang against the wall in a straight taut line. Sew a plastic ring to the bottom hem. Place a cup hook in the wall or the baseboard in line with the hem.

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101—HOW TO MAKE CURTAINS 102—HOW TO MAKE DRAPERIES 103—HOW TO MAKE VALANCES 104—HOW TO MAKE BEDSPREADS 105—HOW TO LAY OUT A PATTERN AND CUT 106—HOW TO MEASURE, ALTER AND FIT 107—HOW TO MAKE SEAMS AND FINISHES 108—HOW TO MAKE SLEEVES 109—HOW TO MAKE BUTTONHOLES AND POCKETS 110—HOW TO MAKE COLLARS, FINISH NECKLINES 111—HOW TO MAKE ZIPPER CLOSURES 112—HOW TO MAKE BELTS AND HEMS 113—HOW TO MAKE SLIP COVERS 114—HOW TO MAKE CAFE CURTAINS 115—THINGS FOR LITTLE GIRLS TO SEW 116—CREATING CHARM WHEN SEWING FOR GIRLS 117—HOW TO REINFORCE, REPAIR AND REFIT 118—HOW TO DO DRESSMAKER TAILORING 119—HOW TO MAKE APRONS 120—HOW TO MAKE CUSHIONS, PILLOWS, AND BOLSTERS 121—HOW TO SEW FOR BABIES

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[1]A Trademark of THE SINGER COMPANY

Printed in the United States of America Book No. 102

Transcriber’s Notes

—Silently corrected a few typos.

—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook is public-domain in the country of publication.

—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by _underscores_.