Part 1

Chapter 13,614 wordsPublic domain

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How to Make Draperies

_Instructions for_ • Fabrics • Color • Design • Measurements • Construction

_Published by_ THE SINGER COMPANY

Book No. 102

How to Make Draperies

CONTENTS _page_ _Fabrics_ _3_ _Color and Design_ _7_ _Selection of Needles and Thread_ _8_ _Window Measurements_ _11_ _Construction Details_ _15_ _Measuring for Pleats_ _26_

_Fabrics_

Drapery fabrics are available to us today in an overwhelming variety for every decor—not only in the traditional fabrics, but also in the many new synthetics and blends.

Whether the room is traditional, modern, formal or informal, you need only visit the drapery fabric department to realize what a wide choice of fabrics are available in either group.

Windows are so much a part of the background that the fabric chosen, its texture, color and line, and the design of the curtains, draperies and slip covers must be in keeping with the atmosphere of the room and contribute to the over-all effect.

For the very formal treatment, you’ll want to choose something in the Damask designs, taffetas, moires, brocades, satins, brocatelles or the many blends of the pure and man-made fibers, some with metallic threads woven in. Fringes and tassels are used as trims, and the window treatment would include draped valances, swags, cascades, elaborate cornices, tie-backs, etc.

For the less formal or informal room, the choice of fabric is even wider—linens in medium and sheer weights, prints and lacey patterns, marquisette, scrim, voile, ninon, denim, sailcloth, chintz, polished cotton, antique satin, organdy, batiste and many blends of synthetics, such as Fortisan and rayon or silk. The curtain treatment should be simple. If valances are used, they should be plain with straight lines.

Many of the new synthetic fibers are a real advantage to the home-maker because of their easy washing and quick drying properties. Some require very little pressing, if any.

In estimating the yardage required, consider the length of the drapery, before finishing hems and heading, and the width of the window or space to be covered. An allowance of 2½ or 3 times the width should be made for fullness. When using sheer fabrics, draperies should be full enough to hang in easy, graceful folds. Over-curtains or draperies of medium weight fabrics require a fullness of 2 to 2½ times the width. Also, if you select a fabric with a large one-way design, some allowance should be made for matching the design so all lengths will balance.

_For example:_ The window is 64″ wide which requires 4 widths of 48″ wide fabric for a 3 to 1 fullness. The drapery lengths are 2⅓ yards long. If a plain fabric or overall design is used, the fabric required would be 9⅓ yards, but if the fabric has a 24″ repeat pattern, you must allow 1⅓ yards more, or a total of 10⅔ yards for matching the design.

Consider the width of the fabric when figuring the number of widths for fullness. Some fabrics are only 36″ wide—chintz and some polished cottons, for example. Others may run 40″—48″—even 54″ or 60″ in width; but the average is about 48″ wide.

⇐Crosswise Grain—Weft or Filling⇒ ⇐Lengthwise Grain—Warp⇒ ⇐True Bias⇒

Draperies must be cut on the true lengthwise and crosswise grain of the fabric so that when hung, they fall straight from the rod in even, graceful folds.

In weaving, yarns are threaded lengthwise on a loom which form the warp of the fabric. Another yarn is interlaced back and forth crosswise and is called the weft or filling thread. This is known as the plain weave. Linen, voile, chintz, etc., are a few of the plain woven fabrics. There are variations of the plain weave, such as the pile weave, with velveteen and corduroy as examples. The basket weave is another, with Monk’s cloth as an example. The diagonal line halfway between the lengthwise and crosswise threads is the bias of the fabric.

The twill weave is perhaps one of the most durable. The filling yarn forms a diagonal line, passing over one warp yarn and under two or more. Denim, drill cloth and ticking are examples of this weave.

The satin weave is an irregular weave where one yarn passes over several yarns of the other set before interweaving, forming a floating, lustrous surface.

Weaves are used in combinations to obtain the various patterns in Damasks, brocades, Jacquards, etc.

The yarns made from the different fibers—the natural, man-made and blended fibers—are of various sizes, weights, smoothness and fuzziness. The type of yarns used in the different weaves influences the texture of the fabric as well as its weight, lustre and durability.

When cutting drapery lengths, be sure to start with a true crosswise grain. Most firmly woven plain weave fabrics can be torn. Snip the selvage before you tear the fabric. Linens, loosely woven and nubby fabrics, novelty weaves and many others will not tear satisfactorily. To straighten these, it is necessary to pull a thread crosswise and cut on pulled line.

After cutting lengths, check to see if the ends of the fabric are square. If not, square the crosswise edge by pulling the low corner on a true bias from opposite side of the fabric. Sometimes dampening the fabric will relax the threads and make straightening easier.

ESTIMATE OF YARDAGE

DRAPERIES _Full Length Window—48″ Material_ 6 YARDS _Full Length Window with Valance_ 6½ ″ LINING—_Full Length Window_ 5¼ ″

These figures are the approximate requirements. Always, where possible, take careful measurements for more accurate estimate. It is much better to have extra material than not enough.

When using materials with a large floral pattern or plaid, allow one full length of the motif for each additional length required for draperies.

_Color and Design_

Color has a language all its own—It expresses, it soothes, it stimulates, it creates; it can give you a lift. And color as a home decorator can be made to work like magic. With color, the dullest rooms can be made to sparkle with warmth and good cheer. Any color scheme is good as long as it is balanced and it pleases you. A number of colors, tints and shades may be used in one room, but one color should be dominant and it should be used in different areas of the room. The second color should be subordinate, not of the same value. Then a third color may be used for accent or contrast. The neutral colors: gray, white and black, are good background or accent colors.

Do not overlook the possibilities of accessories, such as pillows, vases, china, lamps and books to supply an accent color to complete your color scheme.

Your color scheme may be taken from a favorite picture, a family heirloom or may express the interests and personalities of the family. Consider also the location of the room—East, West, North or South—and how the light enters the room.

There are three primary colors—red, yellow and blue. These colors are mixed to obtain secondary colors. For example, red and yellow produce the color orange; red and blue, the color violet and blue and yellow, the color green. By blending these six colors we complete the color wheel which is made up of red, red orange, orange, yellow, yellow green, green, blue green, blue, blue violet and violet.

We refer to certain colors as warm, others as cool and still others as neither warm nor cool. The warm colors are red, yellow and orange. The cool colors are the blues. Green is neither warm nor cool but if mixed with yellow, it becomes warm; when mixed with blue, it becomes a cool color.

Color and line apparently change the size of the room. Cool, light colors and vertical lines make walls appear higher and the room larger, while warm colors and horizontal lines seem to lower the ceiling and draw the walls nearer.

For North and East rooms, use warm colors. If little light enters in, use light shades of the warm colors. Use the cool colors in rooms with South or West exposures.

When purchasing your fabrics for curtains, draperies and slip covers, keep in mind the overall effect. Consider the room exposure, light, size of room, furniture arrangement and what color and design will do to create a room you will always enjoy. Since windows are a very important part of the room as a unit, the fabric chosen for curtains or draperies should also be used to slip cover a sofa or chair, a dressing table cover, or a dust ruffle for the bed.

_Selection of Needles and Thread_

Sewing thread should blend as nearly as possible with the fabric in color, fiber and size. Silk and wool fabrics are stitched with silk thread. Cottons, linens and some blended fabrics are stitched with cotton thread or mercerized thread. The synthetic fabrics and blends of the pure and man-made fibers may be stitched with silk, mercerized cotton, nylon or Dacron (DuPont) thread. The needle is selected with consideration to both the thread and the fabric.

With fabrics used for glass curtains and for sheer curtains, such as organdy, voile, “Dacron,” dotted Swiss, marquisettes, batiste and sheer linen, use a fine cotton thread, size 80 or 90, or a mercerized thread. Use a size 14 needle for mercerized thread and a size 11 for finer threads, including “Dacron” for “Dacron” fabrics, organdy, “Dacron,” marquisette, dotted Swiss, lawn, batiste and rayon lend themselves beautifully to the use of sewing machine attachments for ruffling, tucking, hemming, etc. Fiberglas stitches well and is best suited to straight panel type curtains with pleated headings. Use a mercerized thread and size 14 machine needle for Fortisan, synthetics and the many blends.

The average machine stitch length for these fabrics should be about 12 stitches to the inch and the tensions easy enough to prevent puckering the fabrics, particularly sheer fabrics, such as batiste, nylons, ninons and soft rayon blends.

For Damask, brocades, taffetas, satins, etc., use silk or mercerized thread, size 14 or 11 needles of 12 to 14 stitches per inch.

Heavy weight fabrics, namely, linens, cotton Damasks, sailcloth, ticking, denims, etc., require a heavy-duty thread, a size 16 needle and a 12 stitch length.

For light or medium weight fabrics comparable to polished cottons, Chintz, linens, Glosheen, percale, antique satin and faille, use a mercerized thread, a size 14 needle and a 12 or 14 stitch length.

RETURN RETURN FIXTURE WIDTH FLOOR LENGTH FRAME JAM SASH SILL SILL LENGTH APRON APRON LENGTH BASEBOARD CLEAR RUG

_Window Measurements_

Before taking measurements, there are several points that should be taken into consideration: Is the window in proportion to the room? Will it contribute properly to the effect you wish to achieve? Do you have the right rods for hanging the type of drapery selected?

When you are satisfied with the window, then it is time to consider the type of materials for draperies and decide on the type of rod required.

It is a good idea to make a sketch of the room, noting the placement of windows and arrangement of furniture. Also take the width and height measurement of each window. Then visit the curtain and drapery department to get an idea of the type of fixtures available. At the same time, obtain small samples of the fabrics suited to the type of drapery you have in mind. Examine them in the room where they are to be used. Are they the right texture? Are the colors lively enough? Will they create the desired effect?

Purchase and mount the rods for the draperies. Fixtures should be mounted so that draperies, when hung, will cover the window frame. Now you are ready to take measurements.

There are three correct lengths for draperies—to the sill—to the lower edge of the apron—or to the floor. Full length draperies should just clear the floor or be long enough to crush on the floor.

_For length_—Measure from the top of the rod down—to the sill—to the lower edge of apron—or to the floor.

_For width_—Measure from edge to edge of window frame or from outer edges of fixture brackets. To this measurement add the “return” at either end; that is, the length from curve of rod to the wall.

Estimating Yardage for Over-Curtains or Draperies

The type of heading, the width of lower hem and the type of drapery; that is, lined, unlined or interlined, must be considered when estimating the yardage required. The fullness of draperies averages about twice the width of the space to be covered.

A stiffening; such as a strip of crinoline or buckram is used at the top to support the pleats.

_For Lined Draperies_—To length measurement, add 1″ for heading, 4″ for hem and 3½″ for bottom hem.

_Example_—If length from top of rod is 90″, add 1″ plus 4″ plus 3½″. This equals 98½″ for one length, or 5½ yards for the two lengths.

_For Unlined Draperies_—To length measurement, add 1″ for heading, 4½″ for top hem and seam, and 3½″ for lower hem. A 4″ wide strip of crinoline is used at the top of both lined and unlined drapes.

If a double hem is used at the bottom, then add 6″ instead of 3½″ for hem in either lined or unlined drapes.

_For Interlined Draperies_—To length measurement, add 1″ for heading, 3″ for top hem and 3″ for bottom hem.

When using ready-made headings for pleats, add to the length measurement 1½″ for heading and seam, and 3½″ for bottom hem.

FIXTURE FOR WIDTH MEASURE FROM TOP AND BOTTOM OF FIXTURE FIXTURE

Recessed Windows

When draperies are hung flush with the wall, measurements are taken inside the recess. A spring socket type of fixture is available for this type of window. Always measure from the top of the rod, except for Cafe curtains. Usually a ring, “sew-on” or “clip-on” type is used. In this case, measure from lower part of circle to lower part of next section, or to the sill. Add depth of top finish plus hem to this measurement.

Sliding Windows or Doors

These windows are usually treated as one. Draperies, in two sections, are hung on a pole or traverse rod and are drawn to the center, one section overlapping the other about 2″. Take length measurement from top of rod to the floor. To this measurement, add 5½″ for heading and top hem and 3½″ for bottom hem. If double hems are used, add 9″ at the top plus 6″ for bottom hem. To the width, add 3″ at either end for return of curtain from fixture to wall.

Projected Window

To permit ease when opening or closing the window, the fixture should extend a little beyond the window on either side. Use a simple fixture, an oval or round rod, and a draw type of drapery. If drapery is to be shirred on the rod, take measurement from top of rod to lower edge of window. To length measurement, add 2½″ for a 1½″ hem which forms the casing and heading, and 2¾″ to 2½″ bottom hem. If _sew-on_ or _clip-on rings are used, measure_ from lower circle of ring to edge of window. To this measurement, add depth of top and bottom hem.

Awning Window

The type of drapery determines points of measurement. With tier type draperies, one for each section of the window, the measurements are taken from top to bottom of each section. Draperies hung from the top extending to lower edge of window or floor are measured from top of fixture for length desired. Tier type or cafe sections should be long enough to overlap the heading of the section below. Follow same procedure for measuring as for projected window. These draperies should be full—1½ times the width for medium weight fabrics, such as Chintz, Glosheen, etc., to three times the width when using sheer fabrics.

Methods of installing

Curtain and drapery rods, brackets and valance boards should be mounted securely to the wall to support heavy draperies. This can be a problem unless you use the right screws or bolts. There is a correct screw and bolt available for every type of wall—brick, concrete or plaster walls.

_Construction Details_

Draperies or over curtains are made of medium weight or heavy fabrics. They may be unlined, lined or lined and interlined, depending on the fabric and its treatment—whether formal or informal.

There are three accepted lengths for draperies—to the window sill—to the bottom of the window apron—or to the floor. Floor length is most generally used, and for very formal treatments, the drapery is often made long enough to crush on the floor. Draperies hang straight from the rod to the floor. If they meet at the top center, they may be draped to either side and held with ornamental tie-backs or those made of the same material.

When the type and design of draperies have been decided upon and the right type of rods have been mounted, then measurements for draperies can be taken.

Measure from the top of the rod down for length desired. Then add to length measurement the allowance for top and bottom hems. Review chapter on “Fabrics” before cutting lengths for draperies.

Unlined Draperies

These draperies are informal in treatment and are usually made of light or medium weight fabrics. Most any type of top finish, shirring or pleats is suitable. A plain valance or cornice board may be used. For a pleated heading, allow 5½″ at the top for heading and 5½″ at the bottom for a 2½″ double hem. Cut strips of crinoline or lawn for stiffening 4″ wide and 3″ shorter than the width of each drapery length. Pin strip to underside of heading ½″ from the top, starting 1½″ from the edge. Stitch along lower edge of strip, then turn top edge of fabric over stiffening ½″ and stitch. Turn top hem to underside along edge of stiffening. Press and pin in place.

Side hems may be put in by hand, machine stitched or blind stitched. For hand stitching or straight machine stitching, turn edge ½″ to underside; then turn 1″ for hem. Pin hem in place for stitching.

To blind-stitch hem, using the Zigzag Sewing Machine or the Zigzag Attachment, pin hem in place; then run a row of hand basting ¼″ from turned edge. With wrong side of drapery up, turn hem under to right side, exposing the ¼″ edge. Turn 2½″ double hem at the bottom and finish by hand or machine stitch.

STIFFENING 1½″ BOTH SIDES FOR HEMS UNDERSIDE OF MATERIAL

If 1″ double side hems are used, cut stiffening 4″ shorter than the width of each drapery length. When using a heading with woven-in pockets for pleater pins, (available by the yard) allow 2″ at the top for heading and seam. Pin right side of heading to right side of drapery ⁵/₁₆″ below edge across the top. Consider the ″return″ of the drapery at each side, and position woven-in pockets so that the pleat comes at the turn of the rod. Stitch, taking ½″ seam; then turn heading to underside. Press and stitch ¼″ from the lower edge of the heading.

1½″ BOTH SIDES FOR HEM WRONG SIDE OF PLEAT TAPE

SLOTTED SIDE OF PLEAT TAPE

Lined Draperies

2″ TOP 4″ HEM 7″ LINING 3″ 2″

Draperies are lined for the protection of the fabric. Linings also give weight to the draperies, causing them to hang in deeper folds. A sun-fast white, soft gray or cream colored sateen is generally used as the lining fabric.

Linings, just as drapery fabrics, must be cut straight with the crosswise and lengthwise grains.

Always start with a straight crosswise edge. This is obtained by drawing a crosswise thread and cutting on drawn thread. If fabric slopes up on one edge, then it should be straightened before pieces are cut.

Very often, when fabrics are rolled on the boards at the mills, the fabric is rolled more tightly on one end than at the other, drawing the crosswise threads (weft) in a diagonal line. This is apt to be true in loosely woven fabrics and particularly lining fabric.

To straighten fabric, first remove selvages, pull fabric gently but effectively, stretching it diagonally from corner to corner; then alternate. Grasp the fabric so that you will neither injure nor wrinkle it. Press before seaming.

Lining should be cut to allow for a 2″ hem at the bottom and a ½″ seam across the top and sides.

Illustration is for a drapery 2½ yards long, finished with 4″ top hem, 1″ side hems and 3″ bottom hem. Drapery length would measure 98½″ and lining length, 88½″. The average hem widths, 3″ and 4″, were used in figuring measurements. The width of hems vary. There is no fixed rule. They may be 3″—4″—5″ or even 7″ at the top and 2″—2½″—3″ or 4″ at the bottom. In many cases the bottom hem is doubled, particularly in sheer or lightweight fabrics. Also the center side hem may be as much as 2″ wide and the outer hem 1″. In this case, the lining is cut 6″ narrower than the drapery. Before taking measurements for draperies, review section on _Window Measurements_.

To join lining, turn top edge of lining to underside ½″ and press. Pin lining and drapery together, starting 7½″ from the top. Stitch from top of lining down to 4½″ of lower edge of lining, taking a ½″ seam. Back-stitch at the beginning and end of seam. Press seam as stitched; then clip seam every 3″ or 4″. Press the seam open. Pin, from hem to hem, a 4″ wide strip of stiffening to underside across the top. Stitch and press.

RIGHT SIDE OF MATERIAL 7½″ LINING