Part 1

HOW TO COOK IN CASSEROLE DISHES

BY

MARION HARRIS NEIL, M.C.A.

Formerly Cookery Editor, ‘The Ladies’ Home Journal’; Author of ‘Candies and Bonbons and How to Make Them’; ‘Canning, Preserving, and Pickling’; ‘The Thrift Cook Book’; ‘Salads, Sandwiches, and Chafing-Dish Recipes’; etc.

LONDON: 38 Soho Square, W. 1 W. & R. CHAMBERS, LIMITED EDINBURGH: 339 High Street

NOTES

In place of “whole peppers” read “peppercorns.”

In place of “okra” read “canned okra or diced vegetable marrow.”

In place of “squabs” read “pigeons.”

In place of “corn-starch” read “corn-flour.”

In place of “pumpkin” read “canned pumpkin.”

In place of “string-beans” read “French beans.”

Printed in Great Britain. W. & R. CHAMBERS, LTD., LONDON and EDINBURGH.

CONTENTS

PAGE HOW TO COOK IN CASSEROLE DISHES 9

SOUP RECIPES 17

FISH RECIPES 30

POULTRY AND GAME RECIPES 44

MEAT RECIPES 54

COLD MEAT RECIPES 70

VEGETABLE RECIPES 79

SALAD RECIPES 95

PUDDING RECIPES 103

INVALID RECIPES 127

CHEESE RECIPES 137

EGG RECIPES 147

SAUCE RECIPES 159

CAKE AND BREAD RECIPES 170

PICKLE RECIPES 181

PRESERVE RECIPES 193

MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES 202

INDEX 212

ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE RABBIT EN CASSEROLE _Frontispiece_

SOUP EN MARMITE 17

HADDOCK AND MACARONI 32

LOBSTER NEWBURG 40

RAGOUT OF DUCK 41

VEAL AND HAM PIE 56

BEEF AND SAUSAGES 57

GROUP OF CASSEROLES 65

BAKED BEANS 80

CURRIED VEGETABLES 88

MUSHROOMS AU GRATIN 89

AMERICAN SALAD 97

BAKED APPLES 105

FRENCH PUDDING 112

ASSORTED SMALL CASSEROLES 152

EGG AND POTATO PIE 153

HOW TO COOK IN CASSEROLE DISHES

“_Some hae meat and canna eat, An’ some wad eat that want it, But we hae meat an’ we can eat, Sae let the Lord be thankit._”

There is no doubt that the fashion of cooking in casseroles or earthenware dishes has come to stay in this country; and it is hardly a matter of surprise when the advantages of this form of cookery are really understood, whether it be actual casserole cookery, so called, or cookery in fireproof utensils.

Cooking “en casserole” is a term which signifies dishes cooked and served in the same earthenware pot or utensil, though, as every one knows, the original French word is the generic name for a stewpan or a saucepan.

The old idea of a casserole was some preparation of chopped fish, flesh, or vegetables enveloped in a crust of cooked rice, macaroni, or potato. Properly speaking, however, a casserole is a dish, the material for which in many instances is first prepared in the sauté or frying-pan and then transferred to the earthenware pan to finish cooking by a long, slow process which develops the true flavors of the food being cooked.

The sooner the casserole utensil becomes an indispensable part of our kitchen outfit the better, for it makes in every way for economy,—economy of materials, time, and labor,—as materials often too tough for ordinary cooking may by this means be served in a nutritious and tender condition. When casserole cookery is thoroughly understood, many combinations of food and many inexpensive viands will be put to use and very palatable results obtained.

Casseroles nowadays take on all shapes and sizes, from the dainty individual dishes up to a size sufficient for serving a large number of persons.

Of late years the prices of these utensils have been reduced so greatly that they are within the reach of the most modest housewife’s pocketbook, and then at the same time the actual pots and fireproof dishes have been improved enormously in quality.

Every kind of utensil can be had in this ware nowadays, and people are realizing how delicious food cooked in this way is.

They may be bought at all the reliable house-furnishing stores. Ornamental effects in brown, green, blue, red, white, or yellow stoneware add to the appearance of the breakfast, luncheon, or dinner table. No one attempts to deny that the eye has much to do with the palate, and that a dish served in an attractive form is likely to prove much more pleasing to the taste than a carelessly offered one. The holders in which the casseroles are placed when removed from the oven and taken to the table are made of silver, nickel, brass, copper, and wrought iron, and are examples of genuine artistic merit.

For those who do not wish the extra expense of the metal holder a platter or tray will answer the purpose, which is simply to keep the hot casserole from coming in contact with the table or table mats and scorching them. The adaptability of a stoneware cooking utensil deserves to be more fully known, when it will be more thoroughly appreciated.

For braising, pot roasting, as well as stewing, which are slow cooking processes, the casserole has proved its superiority over the metal pans again and again. It gives its best and almost exclusive service in the baking oven, for poultry done in pot roasting fashion or for stewing fruit, and other articles which require to be cooked slowly under close cover. There are few cooks who do not know that the application of a moderate, even heat for certain food materials produces far better results than if quick heat is applied. For such cases the use of earthenware cooking utensils is to be strongly recommended, because by their aid an application of heat, such as will insure gentle simmering, steaming, or baking, is assured.

The casserole may be regarded as a labor-saving device, taking the place of a half-dozen pots and pans in the kitchen.

SOME COMMENDABLE FEATURES OF CASSEROLE DISHES

(1) The initial cost of the utensils is very low, and if proper care is bestowed on them they may last as long as metal pans.

(2) All risk of metallic contamination is avoided. The ingredients may be put together in a casserole and allowed to stand for hours in it before cooking without spoiling in the very least degree. Its lining cannot scale, and in cooking the contents cannot become tainted or discolored.

(3) The ornamental appearance of casserole dishes simplifies the practice of serving the viands at table in the vessels in which they were cooked, so great a desideratum in cases where the prosperity of a dish depends upon its hot service. The troublesome process of re-dishing can in most cases be dispensed with. This is convenient as well as economical.

(4) Casseroles are readily cleaned on account of their perfectly hard and unbroken surfaces. It can easily be seen when casseroles are clean. They are sanitary, and food prepared in them is pure and sweet. They do not retain any taste whatever from previous cooking. Therefore the same utensils can be used for the most varying preparations.

(5) The cooking in casserole dishes is slow but thorough, and all the nutritious elements in the viands are preserved in their integrity. The cover must fit snugly to each utensil, to prevent too rapid escaping of the aromas and flavors. Sometimes a strip of cloth, spread with a soft paste of flour and water or mashed potatoes, is pressed over the joining of the casserole and the cover, and the heat of the oven finishes the sealing of the dish. When the dish is ready to serve, the strip of cloth and paste is removed.

(6) The use of a casserole is economical. The actual cooking is effected slowly and evenly, consequently less fuel is used in cooking. Once the materials have been started on their culinary way they require little attention. A casserole dish may be placed in the oven or on the stove; it may be used for steamed food or as a chafing dish.

(7) The cleanliness and wholesomeness of a casserole make it especially valuable in preparing food for the invalid and the convalescent.

(8) In the cooking of fruits and vegetables, especially for canning, the casserole is invaluable. The earthenware is not attacked by fruit acids, therefore cannot give rise to any noxious product.

(9) Any dish which requires slow, gentle cooking can be prepared in a casserole, and hash, curry, and other réchauffés are far superior in flavor when recooked in earthenware than in metal. The stew, or whatever it is, may be left to get cold in the casserole. The color would be spoiled if this were done with an ordinary saucepan.

(10) The flavor of the food cooked is brought out best when it is prepared in an earthenware dish.

(11) The fact that a casserole is a non-conductor of heat makes it more economical to use than other ware.

(12) The amount of water, liquid, or stock in which the article is to be cooked should be relatively small, and, in general, seasoned. For stews, ragouts, etc., it is better to cook the meat in a nicely seasoned sauce, that it may absorb the flavor in cooking. The time, in general, should be multiplied by two; that is, if the recipe calls for thirty minutes; cook in the casserole in the oven for about sixty minutes. The heat of the oven should be about 212 degrees Fahrenheit or less, that the liquid in the casserole may simmer, not boil.

When vegetables are to be cooked—and nearly all vegetables are wonderfully better when cooked by this method—a small amount of water, in many cases seasoned stock, should be used.

(13) Left-overs, salads, and small entrées of all kinds may be served in a most attractive manner in ramequins or individual casseroles.

(14) The crowning advantage of casserole cooking, especially in a family where for one cause or another meals are apt to be irregular, is that the dish can be kept waiting for a considerable time without deterioration. Food can be left in a casserole with perfect safety as long as desired.

HOW TO CARE FOR CASSEROLE DISHES

The cook who has been accustomed to the use of iron, granite, copper, aluminum, or other metal cooking utensils will necessarily have something to learn when adopting earthenware. It must be realized that it is a method of slow cookery, and cannot be hurried. Before being used for the first time the vessels should be soaked in cold water for some hours, as this will go far toward saving them from cracking on their first exposure to heat. There need be little risk of this if the heat be applied gradually, and this principle should always be observed; although as the utensils become seasoned by constant use the risk of accident is materially lessened. In many places garlic is considered indispensable, the new dishes being rubbed with a clove of it, “to prevent their cracking.” Never place the vessels on the stove or within the oven without either water or fat in them. Never put a casserole roughly on a metal surface, especially if it is full or partly full.

Sudden alternations of temperature should be avoided, that is to say, the casserole should not be taken off the range or out of the oven and placed in cold water or on the wet sink, and vice versâ. A fierce heat is never needed or desirable.

If the cooking is done on an ordinary coal range the fire holes should be kept closed and the heat received through the top lids; if a gas range be employed, the gas jets should be kept low, and not allowed to flare round the utensil. When cooking is being done on the top of the range with wood, coal, gas, or oil as the fuel, an asbestos mat placed underneath will modify the heat. The asbestos mat may also be used in the oven. If the heat must be intense for other food in progress of cooking at the same time as an earthenware dish is in the oven, the heat may be controlled by placing the casserole in a pan of hot water which can be lowered in temperature by occasional supplies of cold water added to the hot water.

The adoption of these simple precautions will make easy the use of earthenware utensils. Marmites, ramequins, cocottes, au gratin dishes, and soufflé cases all come under the head of casseroles.

SOUP RECIPES

“_Give zest and flavor to a mess of pottage_”

BROWN SOUP WITH FORCEMEAT BALLS

¾ lb. lean beef 1 carrot 2 onions 1 teaspoonful whole peppers 1 teaspoonful salt Few sprigs parsley 2 stalks celery 3 pints (6 cups) water 1 turnip 1 tablespoonful mushroom ketchup 4 cloves 1 teaspoonful powdered herbs 2 tablespoonfuls (1½ ozs.) butter 2 tablespoonfuls (1½ ozs.) flour 1 teaspoonful kitchen bouquet Some forcemeat balls

Melt the butter in a large marmite, let it get brown, then brown in it the onions, cut in rings; remove the onions from the pot, and brown the flour in the butter; then add the water and the kitchen bouquet, stir till smooth, allow this to boil, put back the onions, and add the vegetables cut into neat pieces, the meat cut up into small pieces, and the seasoning; simmer for one and a half hours, remove the meat, and rub through a sieve as much of the vegetables with the soup as possible.

Put the soup back into the marmite with the meat and some forcemeat balls (made as undernoted); simmer again for fifteen minutes, skim off the fat if necessary, and serve in small fireproof dishes.

FORCEMEAT BALLS

4 tablespoonfuls bread crumbs 1 teaspoonful chopped parsley ½ teaspoonful grated lemon rind 1 egg 1½ tablespoonfuls chopped suet ½ teaspoonful powdered herbs Seasoning of salt and pepper A pinch powdered mace

Beat up the egg and mix in the above ingredients, form into tiny balls, roll in flour, and add to the soup.

BROWN STOCK

4 lbs. shin of beef 3 cloves 2 quarts (8 cups) water 2 stalks celery 1 bay leaf 1 blade mace 1 large carrot 2 onions, browned 1 bunch sweet herbs 1 teaspoonful whole peppers 1 teaspoonful salt Some poultry or game bones 3 sprigs parsley

Wipe the meat and cut it into small square pieces. Break up the bones and remove the marrow. Put the bones and the meat into a large casserole, cover with the water, and bring slowly to boiling point; skim thoroughly, then add all the other ingredients, and simmer for four hours; then strain, and when cold remove the fat.

The bones may be boiled down again for cheaper stock.

To brown the onions place them with the skin on in a tin and set in the oven until brown.

CHEESE SOUP WITH SAVORY CUSTARD

2 heaping tablespoonfuls grated cheese 1 quart (4 cups) white stock ¼ pint (½ cup) cream 2 egg yolks 1 heaping tablespoonful (1 oz.) butter 1 blade mace 1 teaspoonful salt 1 onion 1 carrot 1 teaspoonful whole peppers 1 stalk celery Bunch sweet herbs 1 heaping tablespoonful (1 oz.) flour Few sprigs parsley Savory custard

Pare and slice the vegetables and fry them in the butter with the herbs, mace, and whole peppers for five minutes, then add the flour and the stock; simmer for one hour, rub through a sieve; mix together the egg yolks, cream, and grated cheese, add to the soup and reheat, taking care that it does not boil.

Meanwhile prepare a savory custard as follows: Put half a cupful of stock and one tablespoonful of grated cheese into a small saucepan and bring to boiling point. Beat up two eggs with salt and pepper to taste, strain the stock to them, pour into one or two small buttered molds, stand in a pan of hot water, allowing the water to come within half an inch of the top of the molds; place in the oven, and when set turn out and allow to cool, cut into dice, divide into petites marmites, and pour over the soup.

OYSTER OR CLAM BISQUE

3 dozen clams 1 onion 1 carrot 1 bay leaf 2 sprigs parsley 1 quart (4 cups) fish stock Salt and pepper Some cream 1 tablespoonful butter 1 tablespoonful flour 1 gill (½ cup) Madeira wine

Put the clams into a casserole, slice the onion and the carrot, and add them with the bay leaf, parsley, and stock.

Simmer for one and a half hours, then strain; return to the casserole and add the needed salt and pepper.

Blend the butter and flour together and add them with enough cream to make two pints. Simmer for five minutes and add the wine when serving.

CREAM OF BARLEY SOUP

2 ozs. (¼ cup) fine barley 2 sliced onions 2 sliced carrots 1 small bay leaf Few sprigs parsley 2 quarts (8 cups) veal or chicken stock ½ pint (1 cup) hot milk 2 egg yolks 1 glass sherry wine ½ pint (1 cup) boiled green peas Salt and pepper to taste

Put the stock into a fireproof pot, add the barley, onions, carrots, bay leaf and parsley and simmer for three hours.

When almost ready, add the yolks of the eggs mixed with the milk, wine, and seasonings. Press through a sieve and reheat.

Divide the hot peas into earthenware handled cups, pour over the soup, and serve very hot.

CREAM OF SALSIFY SOUP

4 roots salsify 2 pints (4 cups) milk 1 teaspoonful onion juice 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley 1 oz. (1 heaping tablespoonful) butter 1 oz. (1 heaping tablespoonful) flour 2 eggs Salt and pepper to taste A few chopped pistachio nuts Water ½ pint (1 cup) cream

Clean the salsify, throwing at once into cold water to prevent their turning dark. Put them into an earthenware dish with water to well cover and cook till very tender, then rub through a sieve.

Return to the casserole and add to the pulp two cupfuls of the milk, onion juice, chopped parsley, salt and pepper to season.

Have ready the remaining milk, thickened with the butter and the flour rubbed together, add to the salsify, and heat thoroughly.

Just before serving stir in the beaten yolks of the eggs mixed with the cream.

Pour into hot marmites. Have ready the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs, put a spoonful of the egg on the top of each marmite, and sprinkle over the chopped pistachio nuts.

Serve hot.

FISH SOUP

1 lb. haddock or flounder Some fish bones or skin 2 stalks celery 2 heaping tablespoonfuls (2 ozs.) flour ½ pint (1 cup) milk 1 bay leaf 1 large onion 2 quarts (8 cups) water or stock 1 heaping tablespoonful (1 oz.) butter 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley Salt and pepper to taste

Skin and fillet the fish. Put the fish bones, skin, and any other fish trimmings into an earthenware pot with the stock or water and the salt; bring to the boil and skim well, add the bay leaf, the onion, and celery cut into small pieces; simmer for one and a half hours; then strain. Melt the butter in the pan, add the flour, stir till smooth, then add the milk; allow this to boil for four minutes, add the soup, the parsley, and the fish cut into small pieces; season nicely, simmer for fifteen minutes, and serve hot.

FRUIT SOUP

1 pint (2 cups) fruit juice 2 quarts (8 cups) water 6 cloves 3 inches cinnamon stick Peel of 1 orange Peel of 1 lemon 4 bitter almonds ¼ lb. (½ cup) tapioca 3 heaping tablespoonfuls (3 ozs.) sugar 1 teaspoonful salt

Put one quart of the water into a fireproof utensil, add the cloves, cinnamon, lemon and orange peels, and the bitter almonds.

Allow to remain for one hour, then simmer for fifteen minutes.

Strain and return to the pan, add the tapioca and the remainder of the water, and simmer until clear; then add the sugar, salt, and fruit juice.

Serve hot.

Cherry, strawberry, currant, blackberry, or grape juice may be used for fruit soups.

GUMBO SOUP

1 quart okra 1 chicken 2 onions 1 garlic clove 1 tablespoonful flour 2 tablespoonfuls melted butter 1 quart tomatoes Salt and pepper ½ lb. sliced ham ¼ lb. chopped bacon 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley 1 head celery 3 pints (6 cups) strained stock 1 pint (2 cups) plain boiled rice

Chop the onions and the garlic, roll them in the flour, then brown them in the butter, and add the tomatoes. Cut the heads off the okra, split each four times and cut into dice, add it to the tomatoes in the casserole, add the parsley, salt and pepper, and the celery, bacon, and ham chopped; brown all together.

Cut up the chicken and fry it for a few minutes, then add it with the stock, and simmer until thick.

Serve with plain boiled rice. One pint of cooked crab meat, cooked shrimps, or oysters, may be added with the chicken if liked.

LENTIL SOUP

½ lb. (1 cup) lentils 3 stalks celery 4 springs parsley 1 onion 1 carrot 1 turnip 1 crust stale bread 1 bay leaf 1 teaspoonful whole peppers 1 blade mace 1 teaspoonful salt ¼ pint (½ cup) cream 3 pints (6 cups) water ½ pint (1 cup) milk 1 heaping tablespoonful (1 oz.) butter 1 heaping tablespoonful (1 oz.) flour

Wash the lentils and put them to soak in cold water overnight. In the morning drain them and put them into an earthenware pan with the water, bring slowly to the boil, and skim well; then add the vegetables cut into small pieces, the mace, bay leaf, whole peppers, and bread, simmer for one and a half hours. Strain the soup, rubbing as much of the pulp through the sieve as possible.

Melt the butter in the pan, stir in the flour, add the milk, and boil for four minutes. Add the soup, and season it nicely. Divide the cream into earthenware cups and pour the soup over it.

OYSTER BOUILLON

2 quarts oysters 1 quart (4 cups) white stock 1 onion 1 celery stalk Salt and pepper Some whipped cream

Put the oysters into a casserole, add the white stock, the onion and celery chopped, and the salt and pepper.

Simmer gently for one hour. Strain the soup, reheat it, and serve in earthenware bouillon cups with a tablespoonful of whipped cream on the top of each.

POTATO PURÉE

12 medium sized potatoes 2 ozs. (2 heaping tablespoonfuls) butter Salt and pepper 1 quart (4 cups) white stock 1 pint (2 cups) cream 2 tablespoonfuls flour 2 tablespoonfuls melted butter 1 teaspoonful onion juice

Boil the potatoes in their skins till tender, then cool and peel them. Cut them into quarters and put them into an earthenware pan with the two ounces of butter to brown just a very little in places.

Season with the salt and pepper, then add the stock, cream, and the onion juice.

Allow to boil up, and strain through a sieve; return the purée to the pan and stir into it the melted butter mixed with the flour.

Boil for three minutes and serve hot.

SCOTCH BROTH

2 lbs. mutton (neck) ½ lb. (1 cup) barley ½ pint (1 cup) peas 1 carrot 1 turnip 1 teaspoonful sugar 3 onions or leeks 1 teaspoonful dripping 1 small cabbage 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley 4 quarts (16 cups) water or stock Salt and pepper to taste

Prepare the vegetables and cut them into small pieces. Put the water or stock into a large earthenware pan, and when it boils, add the meat and the barley. Boil up, skimming frequently, add the vegetables, and then simmer for three hours.

Now stir in one extra carrot grated, the salt and pepper, sugar and dripping. Simmer again for thirty minutes.

Add the parsley and the broth is ready to serve.

The mutton may be served separately with potatoes.

SHRIMP CHOWDER

3 cupfuls picked shrimps 2 ozs. (2 heaping tablespoonfuls) butter 2 ozs. (2 heaping tablespoonfuls) flour 1 blade mace ¼ cupful salt pork fat cut in cubes 1 chopped onion Salt and red pepper to season 2 pints (4 cups) milk ½ pint (1 cup) hot cream