Part 12

The track of the pencil must be rapidly made and must be either straight or curved; any track in which there is an angle does not count. Sometimes the players turn their heads or close their eyes when making the track.

THIRTY-ONE.

Although this game is usually played upon a board similar to the one in the cut, and with small wooden blocks made for the purpose, a slate properly marked off would answer very well for the board, and bits of pasteboard, marked with the necessary figures, do equally well for the blocks.

The game consists of playing these bricks or squares of pasteboard, so that the column added up makes just thirty-one.

As only two persons play together, suppose William and Mary are contestants. Mary commences the game by playing a six; that is, she slides one of the blocks numbered six over to the right-hand side of the board. Then William plays block No. 4. This makes ten. Mary then plays two, and William follows with a five, making seventeen total. Now, some calculation is necessary if either will win. Mary, after some study, ventures a five, and William plays a six. It is now only necessary for Mary to slide No. 3 over to the right side, to make the total thirty-one and beat.

That move of Mary’s—which was made after considerable deliberation—was not a safe one, as William could have moved over a one and made the total only twenty-three. This would require eight more to complete the required thirty-one, and as six is the largest number on the blocks, William would have had the last play and gained the contest.

_Rules for Thirty-one._

The object of each player is to gain thirty-one, or _nearer_ thirty-one than his opponent, _without going over_ that number.

Put the blocks or bits of pasteboard on the left side of the board; and each in turn moves any piece they like to the other side.

Each player moves alternately one piece at a time.

Add together the numbers on _all the blocks moved_, until one or the other gains thirty-one, without going over that number.

The player gaining this number by his individual block wins.

The final honor is given to him who wins three out of five single games.

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SOLITAIRE.

During the long winter evenings, we cannot have too many games to amuse the younger members of the household, and a variety is always acceptable.

Where the family is large and the means small, and especially in the country where boys are forced to rely upon their own devices in the way of amusement, few of the ready-made games find their way into the household.

Now boys, and girls, too, let me whisper to you so softly that your city cousins may not hear—you are no losers because of that fact. A great part of the enjoyment of a thing consists in the making of it. And many of the games which are best enjoyed by children all over the land you can, with a little ingenuity and some trouble, perhaps, make for yourself.

Among the many things which a boy can make, there are very few more interesting or fascinating than the simple game of Solitaire, or, as it is more frequently called, _The Peg Puzzle_.

Take a piece of smooth board, from nine inches to a foot square, cut out the corners as indicated in the illustration, and bore holes in the positions indicated by the dots.

Out of soft pine or other suitable wood whittle thirty-two pegs, which are to fit into these holes; the middle or thirty-third hole is to be left empty.

The game consists in removing all the pegs excepting one from the board, and that one is to be left in the middle hole.

This is effected, as in “checkers,” by a series of captures; that is, when taken off the board, the peg removed must first have been jumped over by another peg.

In beginning the game, peg No. 1 jumps over peg No. 2, and is placed in the central hole. No. 2 is then removed from the board. As the hole occupied by No. 2 is now empty, peg No. 3 jumps over No. 4, and is placed in the empty hole No. 2. No. 4 is removed, and the moves continue in like manner as those described.

The following is a key to the solution of the puzzle, but should not be consulted until you find it impossible to accomplish the feat without its aid.

KEY.

1 to centre 3 to 2 5 to 4 2 to 3 7 to 4 8 to 6 9 to 7 11 to 3 7 to 4 6 to 8 13 to 2 x to 1 15 to 2 16 to 14 2 to 13 18 to 11 20 to 19 8 to 21 22 to 20 20 to 19 11 to 18 24 to 14 26 to 25 25 to 17 28 to 14 17 to 25 29 to x x to 27 30 to 24 32 to 25 27 to centre.

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BATTLEDORE AND SHUTTLECOCK.

If any of my young boy friends wishes to make a useful, and at the same time acceptable, present to a sister or girl friend, he cannot do better than make a set of this pretty and amusing game.

The battledore is readily made with a hickory stick and a piece of hoop, and the shuttlecock with a cork and a few short feathers. The forms of the two are shown in the illustrations.

The game is played by two players, each having a battledore, and each bats the shuttlecock from one to the other, the one failing to return it when it is batted to him within possible reach losing a point in the game. A game consists of twenty points, and the best two out of three games gains the match.

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RING TOSS.

This light pastime for the summer lawn, or for the parlor on a winter’s evening, is one of the most graceful and pretty games ever invented. Although particularly intended for the fairer sex, boys are generally the most skillful, if not the most graceful, competitors in the game.

This game is played with a target-post, more or less ornamental, as the skill and taste of the maker may decree, and a number of light rings or small hoops, ranging from five to ten inches in diameter.

The rings are nicely made of old hoop-skirt wires, bent in the desired shape, and strongly fastened with cords, the whole covered with bright silk or ribbon; the greater variety of colors used the brighter the effect of the game. The ribbons need not necessarily be perfectly fresh, as in winding the rings any soiled spots can readily be hidden.

It is also better to have the rings divided into three sets or sizes, and all those of each set as nearly as possible of the same size. For instance, if eighteen rings are to be used, let six be about five inches in diameter, six more be seven or eight inches, and the remaining six to be ten inches across.

The game is simply to toss the rings so as to fall on the target-post. The smaller the rings the higher the count.

For the large rings one point is scored, for the next in size two points, and for the smallest or five-inch rings, three points—fifty points being a full game.

The distance on a lawn which the player stands from the target-post is twenty-five feet. In the parlor it is fifteen feet.

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CHECKERS.

As I write the above title, I wonder if there is a boy or a girl in this great American land who does not own a checker-board, or does not know how to play this delightful game. The game was brought to us from England, we cannot say how many years ago, probably by the first settlers in these then lonely wilds.

This game of checkers is a scientific one and is governed entirely by calculation. So, in order to become a good player, one has to give considerable time and thought to the subject, which is perhaps as good mental discipline as many of our less interesting school studies.

The game is played upon a board or table, divided off into thirty-two white and thirty-two black squares, with twelve white and twelve black men or checkers.

The board can be made out of thin wood, or upon a strong piece of pasteboard, the white squares left the original color of the material used, and the black colored with ink or paint, whichever is most conveniently at hand.

For the checkers, small pieces of wood may be used, or black and white buttons be substituted in their place.

The table or board should be so placed that each player shall have a black square at his right hand, if playing on the white squares, or a white square, if playing on the black.

The men move obliquely _forward_ until they arrive at the last, or the adversary’s head row, when they are made kings and can then move _backward_ as well as _forward_.

To distinguish a king from a common man he is crowned, by placing another checker of the same color on top of him, as soon as he reaches the _king’s row_.

The adversary’s men are taken by leaping over them, and _must be taken_ whenever offered or exposed. No move can be recalled after the man has been quitted; that is, after the finger has been removed from him.

The players have the first move in each game alternately.

Checkers may best be learned by playing, for awhile at least, upon a board on which the white squares are numbered, some authorities advising the placing of permanent numbers in a corner of each white square, so as to be seen when the men are placed.

The numbers are arranged as follows: 1 being on your right hand and 4 on your left; number 5 the right hand of the second row, and 8 the left, and so on. See illustration.

The black men are placed upon 1 to 12; the white on 21 to 32.

In order to understand the game more readily, it may be of some assistance to beginners to show how a simple game might be played.

Suppose B., who has the black men, makes the first move from 11 to 15. W. follows him with 22 to 18. B. now moves from 15 to 22, jumping over 18, and capturing it by the move. 22 is now exposed, so W. is obliged to take it, and to do so moves from 25 to 18. B. now commences a new line of moving, and passes 8 to 11. W. moves 29 to 25 thus breaking his king’s row. B. 4 to 8; W. 25 to 22; B. 12 to 16; W. 24 to 20; B. 10 to 15. Now W. moves 27 to 24, and loses the game by so doing. B. follows with 16 to 19, thus exposing 19. As it is a law in the game that the opposite side must take up the exposed men, W. is obliged to jump 19, and moves from 23 to 16 in so doing. B. moves from 15 to 19; W. 24 to 15 to jump 19; B. 9 to 14; W. 18 to 9, and captures 14. B. now sees 15 and 22 exposed, and moves from 11 to 25, thus capturing both men by the act. W. 32 to 27; B. 5 to 14, jumping 9. W. 27 to 23; B. 6 to 10. W. 16 to 12; B. 8 to 11. W. 28 to 24; B. 25 to 29, and is made a king. W. now moves 30 to 25, but as 29 is a king and can move backward as well as forward, B. moves from 29 to 22 and jumps 25, but exposes the king, which is quickly captured by W., who moves from 26 to 17. Now both sides proceed in a quiet manner for a time, B. moving from 11 to 15, W. 20 to 16, B. 15 to 18, W. 24 to 20. B. captures 28 by moving from 18 to 27, and W. takes 27 by jumping from 31 to 24. B. 14 to 18; W. 16 to 11, which is taken by B. who moves 7 to 16. W., in turn, takes 16 with 20, which he jumps over to 11. B. 18 to 23; W. 11 to 8. B. 23 to 27, and W. now gains another king by moving 8 to 4. B. moves 27 to 31 and also gets a king. The king, you remember, can move backward, so W. moves from 4 to 8; B. 31 to 27. W. 24 to 20; B. 27 to 23. W. 8 to 11; B. 23 to 18. W. 11 to 8, and B. 18 to 15, which shows the game is lost to W.

The two following problems are given for practice, and are intended to materially assist the learner in gaining some knowledge of the intricacies of the game.

SOLUTION TO NO. 1.

Black to move and win.

Black. White.

1st move 6 to 1 5 to 9 2d move 10 to 15 9 to 5 3d move 15 to 18 5 to 9 4th move 1 to 5 9 to 6 5th move 18 to 15 21 to 17 6th move 5 to 1 6 to 9 7th move 15 to 18 9 to 5 8th move 18 to 22 17 to 14 9th move 1 to 6 5 to 1 10th move 6 to 2 14 to 10 11th move 22 to 18 1 to 5 12th move 18 to 14 White loses.

SOLUTION TO NO. 2.

White to move and win.

White. Black.

1st move 18 to 14 5 to 1 2d move 14 to 9 1 to 5 3d move 22 to 17 5 to 14 4th move 17 to 10 21 to 25 5th move 10 to 15 25 to 30 6th move 15 to 19 30 to 25 7th move 27 to 32 25 to 22 8th move 19 to 24 20 to 27 9th move 32 to 23 White wins.

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THE SPIRIT JEW’S-HARP.

During the Christmas holidays, when families are home for the season, and entertainments are the principal things desired in the long bright evenings, perhaps a few more tricks may not come amiss.

Among these the spirit jew’s-harp will be sure to amuse and at the same time mystify both the older and younger members of the company, who will probably form the audience on these Christmas or New-year’s evenings; and will form a pleasant entertainment between the acts of a charade or the lapses in the music. Briefly described, the trick is as follows:

A jew’s-harp is placed in the mouth, and played upon for awhile with the finger in the ordinary way. Gradually, however, the performer moves his hand away, but continues the motion of playing some distance from the mouth, while the instrument continues to play quite as clearly and distinctly as before. The hand may wave above the head, or in any position, to show the audience that no thread or string is connected with the tongue of the instrument, but must keep up the motion of playing as long as the sound continues to come.

Procure a jew’s-harp with a very flexible tongue, and cover the end with a smooth ball of sealing-wax. Now place the instrument in your mouth with its tongue pointed inward, and if your tongue is placed against the ball of sealing-wax and suddenly pushed out, and as suddenly released, a sound will be produced much as if it was pushed out in the ordinary way with the finger.

After a time you will find it possible to produce different notes upon it, and with some practice will find it as possible to play tunes as by the common method.

It will now be seen that during the whole performance the music is elicited by the tongue, and not by the finger as at first appears; the placing the forefinger of the right hand to the mouth, and moving it as if playing in the ordinary way, is simply a little _ruse_ to mislead the audience.

The performer should so stand that the light does not shine too strongly upon his face, and thus expose the absence of the tongue of the jew’s-harp, and a complete mastery of the instrument in the inverted position should be acquired before one attempts the trick in public.

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A NEW WAY TO KINDLE THE FIRE.

There are many ways given for producing fire, but the following is the most unique, and at the same time convenient, of all these various methods, as it consists in simply blowing the flame from the mouth, and so igniting the camp-fire or whatever else one wishes to burn.

To all appearances you fill your mouth with raw cotton, and then, taking a fan in your right hand proceed to make the fire. First a stream of blue smoke will be seen curling from your lips, and after a moment or two a bright spark will appear in the mass of cotton in the mouth. This spark is quickly followed by others until at last a clear bright flame bursts forth.

Many of the audience may not believe that it is a genuine flame, but a paper may be lighted from it and passed around the room, which will soon convince the most skeptical that it certainly is _bonâ fide_ fire.

To perform this trick, procure from a chemist a piece of _amadon_ or German tinder. This is an inexpensive material, brown in color, and soft and silky to the touch. Tear off a small piece—perhaps as large as a dime—and roll it in a small bit of cotton wool, having already _lighted_ one end of the tinder. Place this with other cotton in your hand, and you are ready to produce all the fire your audience may demand.

First place the cotton which conceals the lighted tinder in your mouth—it will not burn you—and then some of the loose cotton you have in your hand; and remember to draw the breath in through the nostrils, but _breathe it out through_ the mouth. This will fan the tinder and in a moment light the cotton in front of it, so that the smoke will begin to pass out with the breath; then the sparks will appear, and finally the flame, as described above. While placing fresh cotton in the mouth, you may take advantage of the fact that your hand is before your mouth to let some of the burnt cotton fall out. By exercising a little tact your audience may be mystified for a long time, and, in fact, will probably be unable to guess the secret at all, unless you yourself divulge it to them.

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A HOME-MADE COMPASS.

Break a knitting-needle in two pieces, and magnetize one of the pieces by passing it two or three times over one of the poles of a strong magnet. Insert this piece through a small cork. Fix an ordinary needle in the end of the cork with the end projecting.

Break the other piece of the knitting-needle into two equal parts; and having wound one end of each with thread pass the other end into the cork, as seen in the illustration.

Next procure a small brass thimble, deeply indented, and balance the cork upon it by dropping melted sealing-wax upon the thread-covered ends, first on one side and then on the other, until the equilibrium is established.

A small round box is next needed, and having fitted the top with a disk, like that seen in Fig. 2, cut the central hole large enough for the easy movement of the cork.

Now place the thimble on the bottom of the box, holding it in place with a few drops of glue. (Le Page’s liquid glue is best for this, as for all occasions in which glue may be required in constructing the objects described in this book.) Balance the cork upon it, with the needle-point resting in one of the indentations on top of the thimble, the magnetic needle having been temporarily taken out. Now adjust the cardboard disk in place.

Lastly, insert the magnetized needle, and your compass is completed.

This compass can be made very useful upon the various excursions into the woods which boys are always fond of taking, and, as a simple mechanical toy, much amusement may be derived from it.

By presenting the south pole of the magnet to the north pole of the compass, and jerking it quickly away, the momentum of the needle will carry it around several times before the impulse is exhausted.

The same experiment may be tried with the magnetized blade of a jackknife.

The magnetic needle does not point to the north pole of the earth, but to a point called the magnetic pole. This variation, or declination, is, from the Atlantic region of this continent, a few degrees westward of the direct north.

The arrow indicates about the average variation; and if the compass be so placed that the needle will rest directly over it, the line N. S. will more nearly indicate the true north and south.

The card should be held in place not by glue, but by a few very short pins (filed off and re-sharpened). Then if the needle is shaken from its perch, the card can be removed to permit its re-adjustment.

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HOW TO MAKE A CIRCLE.

Many of the operations described in this book require the making of circles of various sizes.

Those readers who own a pair of dividers, especially if they are furnished with a pencil-holder, will find this an easy matter. Those who are not as fortunate may be glad to learn the following ready way of describing circles accurately to any size desired.

One of the common substitutes for dividers is a loop of string or thread passed around the pencil-point, and a pin inserted in the center of the proposed circle. This is a tiresome and vexatious method, as it is difficult to tie the loop at just the right length when a circle of a specified size is to be made, the stretching of the thread adding to the perplexity. The loop is also very ready to slip up and down on the pencil or pin, making it altogether a matter of unusual good fortune to obtain a satisfactory result.

The better way is to take a strip of stout paper or thin card, about half an inch wide and a little more than half the length of the circle’s diameter. A strip cut from a postal card will serve the purpose admirably.

Near one end of this make a hole large enough for the insertion of the pencil-point. Toward the other end make a pinhole, the distance of which from the first hole must be half the diameter of the circle required. Stick a pin through this hole into the center of your proposed circle; place the pencil-point in the other, and you can achieve your result with accuracy and ease.

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THE MAGNETIC CIRCUS.

This mechanical toy is comparatively simple in its construction, and will serve as the foundation for one of the many Saturday shows, which are so dearly prized by most of the bright, active boys in our land.

A good-sized soap-box serves as a table on which the toy is to rest. The back is removed, and a hole cut in the top admits the passage of the crank. It is perhaps unnecessary to add that the exposed surface of this box should be papered, or covered with a cloth curtain, in such a manner as to give it a decorative effect.

The attraction of a magnet or iron is the principle on which the “circus” is made to work.

Procure or make from thin wood a box about a foot square, and five or five and a half inches deep. Cut a hole through the central point of the bottom, to allow of the passage of the crank.

Now from a board cut a round disk which shall revolve easily inside the box, and pass through its center an axle which shall be long enough to form a support for the ring-master on the top or stage, and extend down through the top of the soap-box, where it ends in a crank by which the whole machinery is worked. On the top of this disk, and a short distance from the edge, fasten a common horseshoe magnet, which should be about four inches long, and can be bought at almost any toy store for ten cents. This must be fastened in an upright position by means of staples, as seen in the illustration.

After the magnet is arranged so that it will revolve easily, fit the top of the box with a stiff pasteboard cover, which shall just clear the magnet; and mark upon this a circle which is to represent the ring of the circus.