Horse Training by Modern Methods

CHAPTER I.

Chapter 21,849 wordsPublic domain

EARLY HANDLING.

_Object of Training._—Horse-training is a series of exercises to render the horse obedient and at the same time to preserve and develop his inherent qualities. It is a muscular training which by suppling the parts will strengthen the entire body, and by balancing the horse will develop harmony in his movements.

_New Horses._—New horses should be exercised daily, at first being led by men on foot, and later by men mounted on quiet horses. The exercise should be at a walk, and is used to quiet and strengthen the animals. When leading a young horse mounted, the side upon which he is led should often be changed to avoid giving a false set to the neck.

_Care of New Horses._—The young horse should have flannel bandages on his fore legs when exercised, from the fetlock to the knee, to support the flexor tendons and to keep the horse from hitting himself, thereby often causing splints.

After exercising, the legs should be rubbed and the tendons massaged, then washed with cool water and flannel bandages applied. The tendons are thereby supported and wind-puffs and swellings prevented.

_How to Adjust a Bandage._—A bandage should be wound up with the tapes inside. Unroll six or eight inches of it, and lay this loose portion obliquely across the outside of the leg, close to the knee, with the end reaching to about the center of that joint, and the rolled-up part turned to the outside, and directed downward and forward. The beginning should be continued around the fetlock and upper part of the pastern, and brought back close up below the knee. The loose end is then turned down, and the folds of the bandage carried over it. The tapes are tied a little above the center of the cannon bone. (_Hayes._)

_To Approach an Uncertain Horse._—To go up to an uncertain horse which is held or tied up in the open, approach the fore leg on the near side at an angle of about 70 degrees to the direction of the axis of the horse. Having reached his shoulder, place a hand on his crest and stroke the mane. When a certain degree of confidence is restored to the horse, further handling may be undertaken.

_To Lead a Horse with the Snaffle, and to Adjust Snaffle._—To lead a horse with a snaffle mounted or dismounted, pass both reins through the near snaffle ring if the horse is to be on the off side. In placing the snaffle bridle upon a fractious horse, place the reins first over the neck, if possible. If the horse objects to having the head-stall put on, unfasten the left check-strap from the ring of the snaffle. Place the head-stall in position, then put the bit in the mouth and refasten the cheek-strap. If impracticable to remove the halter before bridling the horse, place the bridle on over the halter, then unfasten the halter, slip the nose-band down over the nostrils, then into the mouth and around under the bit and out of the mouth. The halter will then fall off.

_Longeing._—The following principles must be considered when longeing:

1. The horse must be controlled by the longe; the only function of the whip is to move the horse forward.

2. The length of the longe should be frequently changed. The horse should alternately stretch himself on a large circle and bend himself on a small circle.

3. The gaits should frequently be changed. (_Notes d’Equitation._)

_Method of Longeing a Horse._—Start the longeing exercise without the longeing whip. Place the cavesson on the horse, if possible, after the halter has been removed, or, if a bridle is on the horse, over the bridle. Fasten the longe into the ring of the cavesson. Face the same way the horse faces and walk near his head, leading him by a short longe in a circle to the left; right hand on the longe near the horse’s head, longe in the left hand, not coiled, but arranged so that in running out quickly it will not become entangled or pinch the fingers.

If the horse refuses to lead, an assistant may urge him forward as quietly as possible from the rear. As the horse becomes accustomed to being led, gradually lengthen the longe and drop back slightly from the head of the horse, toward his shoulders. Cluck to the horse to urge him forward. Use the hand to make motions for the same purpose or tap him lightly with the hand on his side, in case the horse refuses to go forward. If the horse turns toward the trainer, shake the longe so that it lightly taps the nose on the side of the horse which should be toward the center of the circle. Gradually, as the horse learns what is wanted, the trainer moves so that the horse circles about him, first at a slow gait, then at the trot, and finally, when more proficient, at the canter and gallop.

To slow down the gait, use the voice soothingly and shake the longe up and down gently. To stop the horse, a series of motions of the longe up and down, with a strong pull on the longe as it comes down, will have the greatest effect. The word “whoa” should frequently be used in this movement. When the horse obeys, he should be caressed.

When a horse will go to the left on the longe, even at the walk, he should be practiced going to the right until equally capable on that hand. A horse should not be longed until fatigued.

_Use of the Longe._—

1. To exercise young horses without injury.

2. To give first lessons to horses difficult to manage.

3. For horses that hold back or fight.

4. For horses with one shoulder more developed than the other.

5. For horses that will not work equally well on either hand.

6. For horses that bend themselves with difficulty.

7. For the first lessons in jumping. (_Notes d’Equitation._)

_The Snaffle Bit._—As early as possible, a bridle and snaffle bit should be put on the horse.

The snaffle is a very mild bit because it acts mostly on the lips and only a little on the bars. The faults of the hand are therefore less prejudicial to the tender mouth of the new horse. When, in the course of training, the horse becomes familiar with the snaffle bit, he may be prepared for the double bridle by the use of the double snaffle, a bit which is known not to be dangerous and which gives the rider more action upon the horse. The double snaffle should properly be composed of a snaffle without branches and a “Boucher” snaffle. The double snaffle also is useful in the case of a horse that leans on the hands; the remedy consisting, in this case, of producing action either by alternate effects which make each snaffle bit felt separately, or by cross-effects obtained by the action of one snaffle bit on one side and the other snaffle bit on the other side.

_Saddling New Horses._—New horses should be made accustomed to equipment while they are first exercised by leading or when on the longe; first by the blanket and surcingle, then by the saddle being placed on their back. The saddle is put on first without stirrups, then with stirrups crossed, and then with the stirrups hanging. The girth should at first be tightened slightly, and afterwards readjusted, if necessary, during the exercises. A nervous horse should be longed a little before placing the saddle on his back.

A horse should not be mounted for the first time on the same day he is first saddled.

_Mounting the New Horse._—When first mounting, the rider should get into the saddle as handily and quickly as possible, without being particular as to exactness. An assistant stands facing the horse. The rider slaps the saddle, lets the stirrups drop against the sides of the horse, and then takes up the reins, leaving them very long. In case the horse backs up or tries to move away, the assistant leads him gently up to where he was before and the rider tries to mount again.

If the rider believes that the horse will make violent resistances, he can insure his seat by having a rolled blanket strapped to the pommel of the saddle, to keep his knees in place. With a horse very difficult to mount, where there is danger of severe resistance, the horse should be snubbed up to a strong, quiet horse. Snubbing is only resorted to in cases where longeing and quiet handling have failed to bring about the desired results.

With very restless animals, the assistants stand squarely in front of the horses and simply caress the animals’ heads without holding the reins. If a horse is very restless, and the cavesson has to be used, it should be in the hands of an experienced man.

The following is a position often taken for mounting a restless animal: Take the reins of the snaffle in the left hand, and with the same hand catch hold of the mane at about the middle of the neck so that there is a slight tension on the reins. Take hold of the pommel of the saddle with the right hand and mount, taking care that the left toe does not touch the horse when mounting. Above all things, avoid bustling the horse when starting; for, if he is led to expect this, he will never stand quietly to be mounted. Sometimes feeding a horse oats from a pan while he is being mounted causes him to stand quietly.

_First Lessons after Mounting._—Never require anything from the horse mounted for the first time. If he walks straight ahead, it is sufficient. Keep the reins separated and feel lightly the snaffle. Ride the horse a few times around the hall to the right and to the left, leaving him as free as possible, if, of course, he is quiet. If the horse does well, dismount and feed him carrots, if they can be supplied, or a handful of oats. Carrots ought always be cut lengthwise and never across; in the latter case they might stick in the animal’s throat.

_Resistances._—Among the most violent resistances are bucking and rearing.

If the horse attempts to buck, press him forward with the legs and hold his head high. The rider is more easily displaced if the horse bucks in place. If the rider is not able to make the horse go forward, he should turn him to the right or left with the snaffle bit. As all horses have a soft and hard side to their mouths, when resistance is encountered in turning to the right, the attempt should be made to turn him to the left.

When a horse rears, separate the reins, and take hold of the mane in the left hand at about the middle of the neck. Lean forward, and when the horse comes down again, push the body back into its place by quickly straightening the arm.