Part 2

Kindness, petting, coaxing with a lump of sugar, carrot, apple or other dainty sometimes succeeds with a balky horse when harsh measures fail. Cruel procedures should be discountenanced and punished and among these the worst trick, perhaps, is to start a fire of paper, straw or brush under the balker. Sometimes all that is necessary is to distract the animal’s attention by pounding lightly with a stone on the shoe of a fore foot, by tying a cord around the leg under the knee, or by holding up one foot for a few minutes.

When a horse balks, one way of curing him is to remove the harness, put on a halter, pull his head around to his side and tie the halter rope in a slip-knot to a strand or two of the tail hair, so as to keep the head well toward the tail. Then he is forced to walk around in a circle until he staggers and is ready to drop, when the rope may be loosed and the horse will be likely to behave and remember the lesson for some time.

Some horses balk by lying down and refusing to budge. If the four feet of such a sulker are “hog-tied” together and he is abandoned and allowed to remain tied for an hour or two, he will usually be thankful to get up and go on when set at liberty.

One owner broke a balker by working him on a mower for a few days with his tail tied to the singletree tight enough to take part of the strain. After that he would pull by the tugs without having his tail tied.

The “guy rope” plan is sometimes effective. A small rope is tied around the horse’s neck and a half hitch taken with it on his lower jaw. A husky man then pulls steadily upon the rope and the horse will usually start forward with a lunge. If not a confirmed old balker he may give up the standing habit if treated in this way a few times.

Light, rapid switching across the nose with a light whip sometimes starts a balker, but severe whipping has an opposite effect.

The writer once was called to see a draft work-mare that was “down” in an Irish teamster’s yard and refused to get up. The poor brute was surrounded with whips and sticks that had been broken over her back, and her body was covered with welts from the whipping. The neighbors thronged around to see what would happen when the “Doctor” tried his hand at a job which had baffled their attempts. Examination of the pulse showed a normal condition and the membranes of the eyes gave no indication of sickness. After the mare’s head and neck had been patted and stroked for a few minutes, and she had been spoken to kindly and gently, she got up at once when the halter was pulled upon and the word of command given. Then she followed the veterinarian about the yard like a dog, recognizing him as her only friend, and ever since that teamster has said, “Sure that mon has the power iv healin’ in his hands!” Whereas, the abused mare only needed and wanted a little kindness and coaxing.

Here is a cure for balking recommended by E. A. Gerrard: “In order to break a balky horse it is necessary to have the appliances, though the first requirement is a cool head. Next you will want a steady horse to hitch with the balky one, together with a strong hopple strap, a rope and a covered swivel pulley, and a good harness and wagon with a long tongue, though one of ordinary length will do.

Fasten your pulley on the end of the tongue so that it will work free; put the hopple on the balky horse’s hind ankle, next to the tongue, and tie the rope in the hopple ring. Now run it through the belly-band, up through the pulley and back to the end of the doubletree on the side of the balky horse, and tie it fast. See that your horses are standing even, making the rope snug, so that the horse can stand easy. Take off your stay chains, sever the line from the terrets on the balky horse, get into the wagon, gather your lines so that you can have control, keep cool, and wait half a minute; then speak to the team and start the steady horse. As he starts he pulls his end of the doubletree forward and draws on the wagon, the other end of the doubletree going back, pulling the rope through the pulley and lifting the balky horse’s foot. He tries to put his foot down and in doing so he takes a step.

Say, ‘whoa!’ and stop your steady horse. Do not let the balky horse make more than one step. Now sit still for half a minute, then start again, stopping as soon as the first step is made, by the same process. Sit still for another half minute, then repeat. Each time you will have taught your horse that when you told him to go he had to step.

Now if you are a horseman get down, go to your horse’s head, pat his neck, tell him he is doing well and that he will be the best pulling horse on the place. Then try him again. If he is very anxious to go at the word, let him make six or eight steps, then stop and sit quiet for half a minute. Gradually increase the distance you allow them to go each time, not forgetting to stop long enough to allay any excitement before starting again. When you have driven half a mile be sure you are back at the stable, take your horse out, have a bottle of strong borax water at hand and bathe his ankle for five minutes where the hopple rubbed it.

On the next day hitch up with the balker on the other side of the tongue. With most balky horses two lessons will prove enough; often one will answer. But if the horse is old he may forget in two or three weeks, if rested much, so you will need to keep your appliances ready and put them on at the first sign of balking.

There is little danger of a horse forgetting if he is worked with the same mate and driver; therefore if you want a perfect job you will do well to change the driver and the mate while the lesson is fresh.”

Mr. F. H. Osburn, of Benton County, Indiana, is the author of the following method of handling a balky mare:

“I had a good true horse to put beside this mare, one which I knew could pull two such as she. Then instead of putting a stay chain to my true horse I put on what I call a stay rope, looping it around the balky mare’s tail, drawing it up short and tying it to the other horse’s hame ring. Whenever I spoke to my true puller something else had to come although the balky mare was not very hasty to respond for the first few lessons. We now have her convinced and I drive her single, ride her when driving cattle, can use the cattle whip over her, and she pays no attention to it. At times she runs idle for a week or ten days, but she never gives me a minute’s bother when I use her again.”

Secret of Curing a Stall Kicker.

Various methods have been proposed from time to time for stopping a horse from kicking in the stall. Here are several gleaned from various sources:

Strap a piece of chain, about 18 inches to 2 feet in length, to the horse’s pastern so that it will fly back and hit him each time he kicks. A trace or stay chain will do.

Pad the sides of the stall thickly with hay or straw kept in place by sacking. When the horse kicks at this and does not hear the sound of his foot striking the boards, he will be scared and quit kicking.

Buckle a leather surcingle around the horse’s body back of the fore legs and to it fasten a small double pulley placed under the belly. Now place straps with buckles on them on each of his legs below the fetlock joint, having a ring in each strap. Take ½ inch rope, tie to the ring on one front foot, run it up through the pulley, back to the hind foot on the opposite side and tie, then do the same with the opposite feet. Leave the rope long enough for the animal to step. When an attempt is made to kick, the pulley raises the front feet. Use this in the stable until the kicking habit is cured.

To cure a barn kicker pack an ordinary grain bag tight with hay or straw and suspend it from top of the stall by a rope or strap, so that it will swing free from the side of the stall and near the place the horse strikes the boards when he kicks. When kicked the bag will swing back and hit the horse on its return trip, and he will climb into the hay mow, if he can. If the horse kicks with both feet, hang a bag on each side.

Tie the kicking horse between swinging partitions whether in a single or box stall. The partition kicks back each time it is kicked by the horse.

An “Old Timer” writing in the Breeders’ Gazette, suggests the following plan for a pregnant mare that is a bad kicker:

“Have a collar made of 1½ inch first-class heavy harness leather, long enough to go around the mare’s neck at the point where the collar fits, with 1¾ inch ring at the breast, then get a strap 1½ inches wide, the full length of a side of harness leather, cut tapering to 1 inch or less at the tip of the light end, with 1¾ inch ring in the other. Then get a 2½ inch strap just long enough to go around the pastern of the hind foot with ¾ inch ring in each end. Have the edges of this strap slightly champered. Slip the collar on the mare’s neck, put the short strap around the pastern of the left hind foot, the thin long strap through the rings on the pastern, then through the ring on the end of the long strap, and slip up snug and tight: next, run the strap between the fore legs and through the ring in the collar on the neck. Now draw it up snug when she is standing in her natural position and secure it with a slip-knot so that it can be easily removed when necessary.

There will be no excitement about this, and no punishment. It does not interfere with the mare’s lying down or getting up; all it will do for her will be to prevent her from kicking, simply because she cannot, and she will soon learn to live in peace with her stable mates. We have used this for many years without a failure, and we would be pleased to have all humane horsemen use it in preference to a long chain or heavy swinging block or padded stall.”

Secret Tricks in Horse Trading.

Secret of Shutting a Heaver.

Heaves or broken wind more commonly perhaps than any other unsoundness, offers opportunity and necessity for skilful handling by the trickster in horse dealing. There are numerous plans for the temporary relief of this disease, and so skilfully is the work done that often it is not suspected or discovered under twenty-four hours following a purchase. The “patient” receives no bulky food and all feed is wetted. Sometimes ammonia water is used in sprinkling the hay, and the observant buyer may detect this by the odor. Lime water or a solution of baking soda also is frequently used. An examination of the bit may show that it has been “medicated”; and allowing the horse to drink all the water he wants will be likely to disclose the heaves when he is made to gallop or pull a load. A pint of whiskey well diluted with water given as a drench also will be likely quickly to offset the effect of drugs.

It is not the province of this book to furnish formulæ of the mixtures or medicines used to “dope” or “shut” heavey horses, but rather to put the buyer on his guard so that forewarned he may be forearmed. Therefore, the following “dopes” employed for dishonest purposes are mentioned:

Arsenic, stramonium, lobelia, indigo, chloral hydrate, opium, melted lard, lead shot, raw eggs, milk, fresh ox blood, vinegar, kerosene, slaked lime in drinking water, etc., and in olden days a fistulous opening was made in connection with the rectum for the free and silent passage of gas.

If the buyer is allowed twenty-four hours in which to reject a horse, heaves, if present, will usually show up in that time if the horse is given an abundance of drinking water and bulky food and then is put to work.

Secret of Plugging a Roarer.

It is well to examine the horse’s nostrils when making a purchase, otherwise he may sneeze out one or more sponges on arriving at his new home. The sponges are inserted to prevent a “roarer” from making a noise when breathing. This is also accomplished by fastening a spring truss to the nose band of the bridle in such a way that it causes pressure upon the false nostrils and so lessens the intake of air when the horse is in motion.

Sponges even of fine quality clog with mucus if left in place too long. Dealers tie fine cords to the sponges and by this means pull them out of the nostrils as soon as the horse is sold. Another plan is to cut off the ends of a lemon, squeeze it dry and then insert it in the nostril. It is left there with impunity as it will soon dry out, shrivel and be sneezed out of the nostril.

Another trick is to pack the horse’s sheath with oakum to prevent unpleasant noises when he is trotting; and the vagina of a lacerated (gill flirt) mare may be similarly treated for a like reason. Laceration of the perineum, an accident occurring at parturition, is usually incurable, hence the importance of making a careful examination when buying a mare.

Diamond Cut Diamond.

It is not always at the time of making a sale that the “gyp” practises sharp tricks. When occasion offers he has been known purposely to depreciate the value of a horse he wishes to buy. If he can make it appear that the horse is lame, sick, broken-winded, weak eyed or balky he may acquire him at a discount, and he has secret methods of accomplishing his dishonest ends. A fine wire or cord tied around the pastern soon causes symptoms simulating those of founder; or the horse limps painfully after a horse-hair has by means of a needle been passed through a certain part of his leg, or when a small nail has been driven into the foot or a gravel or bean put under the shoe. A horse will stop eating and so appear sick when tallow has been smeared upon the roof of the mouth and inner side of the upper incisor teeth; or refuse to pull when his shoulders and breast have been bathed with an irritating solution of corrosive sublimate, tincture of cantharides, or tartar emetic; or seem to have glanders when fresh butter has been melted and poured in his ears; or afflicted with eye disease when whole flaxseed has been chewed and rubbed on the eyes; or he can be made fractious by an application of a caustic fluid.

The owner should make a careful search for such causes of unsoundness should his horse mysteriously go wrong at the time when a trade is pending, and on recognizing the possibility of a trick it is better to call the deal off than to discount the price.

Making a Horse Act Mean.

When a “gyp” dealer learns that a farmer is having difficulty in training a high-strung young horse, he tries to buy him at a discount, and unless closely watched will try to make the horse act mean when examined. He asks the owner to harness or ride the horse, and diverting his attention for a moment, applies an irritating substance to the heels, or some other part of the animal, causing him to kick, plunge and attempt to run away. He calls his secret dope “dog water,” “hop-up,” “soup” or “fog,” and its effect is intended so to disgust the horse owner that he will be glad to sell the fractious beast at a bargain.

Often, should a buyer visit a scalper’s stable in the city, he will be shown a fine-looking horse and attractive harness and wagon. The price asked for the horse and outfit is a low one, and the stranger jumps at the chance to acquire the property; but just as the horse is being hitched up, he begins to kick or behave badly under the influence of a dose of “soup.” The intending buyer immediately suffers from “cold feet,” and is readily induced to take an inferior horse. The fine horse and outfit are thus used times without number to attract buyers and assist in the sale of unattractive, cheap horses at profitable prices.

Blowing Air Under the Skin.

When the muscles of the shoulder have wasted away, constituting the condition termed “sweeny,” air sometimes is blown under the skin to give the part a plump condition. This trick is easily detected, for when the hand is passed over the inflated part it crackles (crepitates) showing the presence of air under the skin (emphysema). The same trick is practised to make an old horse appear younger than he really is, the hollow’s over the eyes being blown up by means of a hollow needle, quill or straw passed through the skin. For low hip and atrophy of the shoulder muscles we have also known tricksters to inject a two per cent solution of phenol under the skin and then thoroughly massage the part.

Stopping a Switcher.

Apart from operating upon the muscles of the tail to prevent switching, which often is a bad vice in mares, dealers resort to the following trick: The tail is tied up over the horse’s back as tightly as possible and left in that position over night. It becomes so numbed by this treatment that the horse is unable to use it for half a day or so after it is let down.

The switching habit is also mechanically prevented, when the mare is hitched, by fastening a strand of the hair or string from each side of the tail to a part of the breeching of harness.

Tail switching is less likely to be noticed by the buyer if the tail is tied up or braided. Therefore, it is well to let the tail down for this and other reasons before deciding to buy the horse.

The Turpentine and Gasoline Tricks.

Temporarily to lessen or remedy the lameness of a footsore horse, turpentine heated to the boiling point is poured into the sole of the foot. It can be held there for five minutes by binding a bandage around the foot so that the turpentine cannot run down over the hoof-head. The buyer may readily detect this trick, as the odor of turpentine gives it away when the hoof is examined.

It also is alleged that the following treatment is given for muscle soreness, caused by use over hard stones: The night before he wishes to sell the horse affected in this way, the “gyp” dealer will pour gasoline over the withers, and let it flow down both shoulders and forearms. The gasoline contracts the capillaries and larger blood vessels and diminishes the blood pressure and nerve sensibility, thus allowing a nearly natural movement of the muscles. Of course as soon as the effect of the gasoline passes away the soreness will return. If gasoline were rubbed on the muscles it would probably result in a blister.

Gingering a Show Horse.

As a preparation for the show ring contest, or before exhibiting a horse to a prospective buyer, it is almost the general practise to insert ginger root in the animal’s rectum that the irritation produced thereby may cause it to carry a high tail and show spirit and action.

While this objectionable practise obtains most as regards coach and carriage horses, it is also followed by exhibitors and sellers of draft stallions and mares, and of recent years has been practised extensively. Indeed the trick is becoming far too common, and we have even seen it boldly and flagrantly practised in the judging ring to the disgust of all decent and fair-minded spectators. Possibly there may be some excuse for the practise as a means of setting a show or sale horse “on edge,” but if allowed at all it should at least be done in private and be absolutely prohibited as a public act in the show ring. We sincerely trust that managers of horse shows will take this view of the matter; and officers of the humane societies should see to it that horses are not excessively tortured in this way. While the grooms of some horse exhibitors use ginger in the judging ring, others pay some regard to the rules of decency by backing the horses into their stalls before showing so that the trick may be practised unnoticed by the visitors who throng the aisles of the horse barns. We have heard of such a plan being followed when preparing the entire string of coach horses of one owner for the evening exhibit at a great horse show.

Unnerving and Cocaining.

Chronic lameness is done away with by skilful obliteration of the large nerves which supply the affected parts with sensation. The operation is termed nerving or unnerving in common parlance and, properly, as neurectomy. It consists in cutting down upon the nerve and then removing a portion so that its function is destroyed so far as the portion below the seat of operation is concerned. Unnerving is most often done to hide the lameness caused by navicular disease which is incurable: it may also be practised on account of ringbone, side-bone, founder or other unsoundness of the foot. After unnerving the horse does not evince pain when the parts below the seat of the operation are pinched or pricked. The operation merely does away with pain and lameness. It is in no way a cure.

Cocaine or eucaine solution injected by means of a hypodermic syringe upon the nerves at the points where neurectomy would be performed will temporarily have an effect like that of the operation. Just after the injection a swollen or puffed place may be discovered at the point where the hypodermic needle was inserted, and local soreness may be present after the effects of the drug have subsided.

Keep an Eye on the Sign-Board.

Dr. Hawley advises that when buying horses at auction one should watch the sign-board, as it may be suddenly shifted from “serviceably sound” to “wind and work.” In such a case a horse slightly lame may be purchased with no chance of rejection.

Secret of Hiding a Spavin.

It is an old “gyp” trick to beat one hock-joint with a stick so that it will swell and acquire the same size as the hock unsound from spavin. Caustic solutions injected under the skin at the seat of spavin also smooth the appearance of the joint.

If spavin is suspected, test for it by picking up the hind foot and holding it toward the stifle for two or three minutes so as to tightly shut the hock-joint. Then drop the foot and instantly have the horse trotted. If spavin, apparent or hidden (occult), is present the horse will hop off on three legs, or go much lamer than before.

Artificially Induced Knee Action.

True knee action is an inborn trait in certain horses, such as those of the English hackney breed, and some families of American trotters; but in many high-stepping horses, sold on the market, such action is unnatural, and has been acquired. The true knee actor flexes his hocks about as freely as he does his knees. This is the test: Watch a fashionable, high-going coacher, and if the action is not well balanced, and if the hind legs are imperfectly flexed, and seem to have difficulty in “keeping up with the procession,” depend upon it that the horse has been trained to go as he does and easily may forget his lessons on leaving school.

The “gyp” trick is to wet the hoof heads with turpentine, which sets up intense irritation and induces knee action. This is readily discovered by remembering to run the hands over the coronets when examining the horse, then noting if they smell of any drug.

The horse trainer, on the other hand, develops high knee action by putting on heavy shoes, the toes being left long; by trotting and galloping the horse in plowed land, deep snow, or a deep bed of straw. He also frequently taps the legs back of the knees with a whip or light stick as the horse takes daily walking exercise. Soon the animal learns the trick of high stepping, and thus is ready to match with one of like kind and gait, for sale at a high figure to some rich man in the city.

A coach horse with extraordinary high knee action was sold by a dealer to a city man for $400. In a few days the buyer returned the horse saying, “Sell him over again; you put him on me, now stick some one else with him.” This horse had stringhalt in both fore legs which caused him to go high.

In buying a coach or hackney stallion or mare for breeding purposes, see to it that the high action is natural and not acquired or due to chorea, else the tendency to step high will not be transmitted to the progeny.

The Artificial Tail Trick.