CHAPTER V

HOME-MADE TOY WATER-MOTORS

You can own a water-motor like the one shown in Fig. 61, because its construction requires nothing but easily obtained materials.

=The Case= of this water-motor is made of an empty varnish can--preferably one of gallon capacity. Nothing better could be desired. The tin can makes a light-weight compact case; the spout in the top is in just the right place and of the right size to receive the water power from a faucet; and as the water connections can be made tight there is no possibility of water splashing on to the floor--a big argument in your favor when seeking permission to use the motor in the bath-tub, wash-basin, or kitchen sink.

You can get an empty varnish can from any painter, or at a paint store. The first step in converting the can into the motor case consists in removing the bottom. You will find this soldered in place, in all probability, and it can be removed quickly by holding the can over the flame of a gas burner until the solder melts, when a few taps upon the edges will cause the piece of tin to drop off.

=The Water-motor Wheel= is shown in the cross-sections of the water-motor (Figs. 63 and 64), and Figs. 65 to 67 show its details. The diameter of the wheel should be about 1/2 inch less than the inside width of the can. In the model from which the drawings were made, this measurement is 5-1/2 inches. Cut the two side pieces of the wheel out of a piece of cigar-box wood, and bore a 1/4-inch hole through the center of each for the wheel axle. Fasten a spool to the center of one side piece for a pulley-wheel (Fig. 66).

=Prepare Eight Paddles= 1-3/4 inches wide and 2-1/2 inches long, out of cigar-box wood. Locate the positions for the ends of the paddles, upon the side pieces, by drawing a horizontal line, a vertical line, and two diagonal lines at angles of 45 degrees, through their centers. This will simplify the matter of spacing the paddles equidistant from one another (Fig. 67). Use brads for fastening the side pieces to the paddle ends. Those removed from the cigar boxes will do.

=The Wheel Shaft= should be a trifle shorter than the inside width of the can, and enough smaller than the 1/4-inch hole in the wheel side pieces so the wheel will turn freely. Locate the centers for the axle upon the two sides of the can, in the proper position so there will be the same margin above and at the ends of the wheel. Drive a nail through each side of the can into the axle end.

=An Outlet= for the water after it has passed over the wheel paddles must be provided, and the best way is to fasten a strip to two opposite sides of the can so as to raise the bottom about an inch, as shown in Figs. 62, 63, and 64.

=For a Pulley-belt= use a piece of heavy cord. Cut a slot through the front of the can for the belt to run through, and make this slot large enough so the cord will not rub against the sides (Fig. 63).

=Pulley-wheels= for attaining different speeds can be made of spools of various sizes. A bicycle wheel with the tire removed, mounted in a frame, is excellent for a large wheel.

=Connecting up the Water-motor.= If you operate the water-motor in the kitchen sink, you can either build a platform as shown in Fig. 61, to bring the spout of the varnish-can case up to the level of the faucet, or you can set the water-motor in the sink and lead a piece of rubber tubing from the spout to the faucet, as shown in Fig. 68. If you use the latter arrangement, slip the lower end of the rubber tubing over a short piece of glass, brass, or tin tubing, and stick the short tubing through a hole in a cork large enough to fit the spout of the varnish-can case (Fig. 69). If you raise the water-motor high enough so the faucet will set down into the spout, you can cut a large enough hole for the faucet, through a cork, and then fit the cork in the spout as shown in Fig. 64.

=Another Water-motor.= The little water-motor in Fig. 70 will furnish sufficient power to operate simple mechanical toys.

=The Water-motor Wheel.= Procure two baking-powder can covers for the ends of the water-motor wheel (_A_, Fig. 72), a cigar-box out of which to make the wheel paddles, and a stick 1/4 inch square and 5 inches long for the wheel axle (_B_, Fig. 72).

Cut eight paddles from the cigar-box wood 1 inch wide and 5 inches long. Take a pair of these strips and fasten them to one can cover, in line with each other, and close against the sides of the cover (_C_, Fig. 73). Fasten with tacks or brads driven through the cover into the ends of the strips. Take another pair of strips and fasten them to the same cover, in a similar manner, at right angles to pair _C_ (_D_, Fig. 72). Then tack the pairs of strips _E_ and _F_ to the cover halfway between pairs _C_ and _D_. With the paddles in position, locate the exact center of the end of the can cover, and drive a nail through at this point into the end of axle _B_. Slip the free ends of the paddles into the other can cover, and carefully drive tacks or brads through the cover into them. Drive a nail through the center of the cover into the end of axle _B_.

=The Wheel Supports.= Figure 74 shows the supports for the wheel. Cut the end pieces _G_ 4 inches wide and 6 inches high, and the cross strips _H_ 1-3/4 inches wide and 5-1/2 inches long. Nail pieces _G_ to _H_, as shown, allowing the lower ends of _G_ to extend 1/2 inch below strips _H_, and leaving a space of 1/2 inch between strips _H_. The axle holes in pieces _G_ (Fig. 74) should be located in the center of the width of these pieces, and halfway between their tops and strips _H_. Bore the holes with a gimlet, or make them by driving a large nail through the pieces, and then withdrawing it.

=To Mount the Wheel= upon the supports, withdraw the nails driven into the ends of axle _B_, slip the wheel between uprights _G_, and drive the nails through the holes in _G_ back into the holes in the axle ends (Fig. 71).

=The Pulley Wheel.= One can cover should be converted into a pulley by winding several turns of string around it, near each edge, leaving a groove between the string. Coat the string with glue to make it stick fast to the cover.

=The Water-motor Case.= Figure 70 shows how the water-motor case is constructed by fastening boards _N_, _I_, _J_, _K_, _L_, and _M_ to the wheel supports _G_. There must be a slot through _I_ and another through _J_, for the string belt to pass through, and a hole through _K_ for the intake of water from a faucet. These can be cut out of the edges of the boards, as shown, before they are nailed in place. Leave an opening between boards _N_ and _M_, and the bottom of ends _G_, for an outlet for waste water.