Part 6

A. Plant in the centre Scarlet Salvia, around that the white Centaurea Gymnocarpa, bordered by Blue Lobelia. (All these beds should have either a low border of box or turf.)

B. Heliotrope, with Sweet-scented Geranium at each end.

C. Verbenas, properly shaded.

D. Dwarf Trapæolum, Sweet Geranium at the points.

E. Varieties of Phlox Drummondii.

H. On the point of the shield Lemon Verbena, the remainder, Monthly Roses, border of Gypsophilia.

I. On the point, one Lemon Verbena, the rest to be filled with Monthly Carnations, bordered with Alyssum Variegatum.

F. Varieties of Zonale Geraniums.

G. Varieties of Fuchsias (if there is not too much sun). If so, plant Japan Lilies; border both F and G beds with Double Feverfew. Perhaps a bed of roses, arranged with standards in the centre, as we have described, might be prepared for the centre bed A, and the Salvia, &c., planted in the bed H, in place of the roses.

4.--CARNATIONS.

The cultivation of the Carnation is very simple. It is rooted from cuttings at any time from October to April, and as the plant is almost hardy, it may be planted in early spring with safety in the open ground. It is safe to put them out as soon as cabbage plants are set out. Many from ignorance keep their Carnations in a pot or green-house until the last of May, thereby losing six weeks’ growth.

The Carnation cannot flourish in a wet soil, and care should be taken to secure good drainage. As the Carnation grows, if winter flowering is desired, the young shoots that the plant throws out should be cut off; this induces a steady growth. There are many fine varieties for summer growth, and but few suitable for winter flowering.

5.--FUCHSIAS.

These flowers are very easily cultivated from slips; any amateur florist can make these slips grow, either by planting in wet sand, or in a bottle of water. Their lovely and graceful flowers add to every bouquet. They require rich light soil, such as decayed leaves and peat, moist atmosphere, and shade. Like the Lemon Verbena, the plants will keep all winter in a cellar. There are but few varieties that bloom well in winter. Bianca Marginata, white, with crimson corolla. Speciosa, flesh-colored, with scarlet corolla (this variety will bloom the year round, if well cared for). Serratifolia, greenish sepals, with orange scarlet corolla. These are recommended for winter flowering by all florists. We will mention a few varieties for summer culture.

Elm City, crimson, very double. Venus de Medicis, white, magenta corolla. Rose of Castille, sepals white, corolla violet rose. Snowdrop, sepals bright scarlet, corolla white, semi-double. Striata Perfecta, double striped blue and crimson. Queen of Whites, double white corolla. Charming, violet corolla, crimson sepals, clusters immense. Lady of the Sea, corolla violet purple, flowers two inches in diameter.

6.--PANSIES.

Who does not love a pansy? They are easily raised by seed and layers. The seeds should be planted in March for summer culture, and in October for winter use. The pansy requires a rich soil.

The finest bed of English pansies we ever saw were planted in the fall, in a bed of rich soil. Before the winter snows the plants were covered lightly with manure and straw through the winter. In the spring the manure was carefully raked off, and the plants dug around with a garden fork. They bloomed early in spring; and, as we looked upon them by the morning light, their bright faces seemed to say “Good morning!” These lovely flowers look like happy children.

Many persons in our country call the pansy, violet; but the gardener only calls the sweet double blue and white violet by that name. And this sweet violet hides its head modestly under its leaves, and is the flower the poet speaks of,--

“Meek and lowly, hiding ’neath its leaves of green.”

The bright-faced pansy does not hide its head; it looks you in the face as fearless as a sinless child. These violets are in great demand from their delicious perfume. These plants require shade and moisture. The best varieties are the “double blue Neapolitan” Setsenbran, single blue, very prolific. King of Violets, very large blue. Double white Neapolitan; this does not bloom freely. Sweet-scented Geraniums, Heliotrope, Lantanas, Lemon Verbena, &c., are all easily propagated from slips. The three first require often watering with guano water, and with this treatment will fully repay all care.

7.--HOW TO PLANT HARDY BULBS.

October, or the early part of November, is the time to plant bulbs for next year’s flowering. Bulbs can be raised in any sunny place, no matter how small the bed may be; they require less care, for the beauty of the flower, than any other class of plants. We will give some plain and simple directions, hoping our young readers may be induced to plant at least a few bulbs this fall.

The soil for bulbs should be rich and well drained; it should also be dug deep. If water should lie on the surface long the bulbs would rot. If the soil is poor, enrich it with well-rotted stable manure, or with surface earth from the woods, or decayed leaves. Cow manure, of course, is the best. If the ground is stiff, and the manure fresh, it is well to put a little sand around each bulb. If the soil has too much clay, mix sand with the manure.

It is well to have your beds made so narrow that the weeds can be destroyed, and the ground kept mellow, without walking among the plants. Before the heavy frosts of winter appear your bulb beds should be protected with leaves. Over these throw a little brush, to prevent the wind from uncovering your bulbs. If your bulbs have been planted a year or two, cover them with manure in the fall; the flowers in the spring will repay you for all expense and trouble.

Hyacinths and tulips should be planted about six inches apart, the hyacinth four inches deep, and the tulip three inches. The early varieties will often blossom the latter part of March. Crocuses blossom even earlier. They should be planted about three inches apart, and two inches deep. Snowdrops--the first flower of spring--should be planted in the same way as the crocus, or a little nearer together. Narcissuses, including the daffodil and jonquil, should be planted in the same manner as the hyacinth. All these bulbs can be planted in beds where you may desire to place either seedlings or any other annual, which will blossom after these bulbs have done flowering.

It is best to take up all your bulbs every third year, when they are done flowering, and separate the newly-formed bulbs from the old. Keep them in a dry place till October, then replant as we have directed.

8.--JAPAN LILIES.

Of all the valuable flowers that have been imported from Japan or China, during the past twenty years, nothing equals the exquisitely beautiful Japan Lily--_Lilium Lancifolium_. No description can do anything like justice to these flowers, or show the beautiful, frost-like white of the surface, glistening like dew-drops; or the rubies that stand out on the surface of one of the varieties, while the end of the leaf is shaded like the exquisite pink, or the inside of some sea-shells from India.

There are nine varieties. The pure white and crimson, Lancifolium Monstrosum rubrum; the pure white Lancifolium Monstrosum album, and a delicate rose of the same variety; then the dark crimson, Lilium Melpomene; white, spotted with delicate salmon, Lilium Punctatum; the pure white, with projecting glistening spots, called Lilium Lancifolium album; Lilium Lancifolium rubrum, white ground, spotted with crimson; Lilium Lancifolium roseum, shaded and spotted with rose; and Lilium auratum. This is sometimes called Golden-banded Lily, and is truly the king of the lilies. The flower is ten to twelve inches across, composed of six delicate white ivory parts, each thickly studded with crimson spots, with a golden band through its centre. In addition to the beauty of these lilies, they are fragrant, and as hardy as any of our common varieties.

Strong bulbs send up flowering stems from three to five feet in height, and begin to bloom about the middle of August. Each flowering stem will have from two to a dozen flowers, according to the strength of the bulb.

Rich garden soil is all that is needed for these lilies. Plant them in October or early in November, about a foot apart, and five inches deep. The bulbs should remain several years, if possible, without removal. These must be the lilies that surpassed Solomon in all his glory. Lilium Longiflorum is called very beautiful. The flowers are snow-white, trumpet-shaped flowers. Lilium Brownii, new variety, superb white.

9.--CAPE BULBS.

These are so called from coming from the Cape of Good Hope. The Gladiolus is the finest variety. These bulbs are easily cultivated in New England and the Middle States; they can be planted out as soon as all fear of frost is passed. They will bloom by the last of July, and by making successive plantings every two weeks to the middle of July, they can be had in perfection until the frost returns. Although they are not particular about soil, yet if choice can be had, a sandy loam, peat, or a soil of decomposed leaves, is better than a stiff clay soil.

In any soil, if it is well enriched, the flowers will increase in size and beauty.

These bulbs should be taken up as soon as the stems begin to wither in the fall; but should the stalk of the late plantings be yet green, the bulbs should be left adhering to the stalk until dried, which will ripen off the bulbs. They can be kept in winter under the stage of a green-house, or in a frost-proof cellar or closet, or in any dry place where potatoes will keep. It is impossible to mention varieties; all are good, and new varieties increase yearly.

10.--HOW TO GROW BULBS IN WINTER.

Bulbs can be grown in vases, bowls, dishes, cornucopias, &c., of whatsoever shape or form, from the small ornament that will hold a crocus, to the large family punch-bowl, capable of growing a dozen hyacinths. Wire or rustic work of any kind, lined or not with zinc, and filled with moss, will grow bulbs to perfection. A zinc frame can be made to fill the whole front of any window; and if filled with moss or sand, and planted with hyacinths, lily of the valley, crocuses, snow-drops, tulips, narcissus, and polyanthus, would in itself form a complete miniature winter flower-garden. These, with successive plantings, may be made so many connecting links between our autumn flowers and the early spring blossoms.

Take a common soup plate, place in it as many strong bulbs as it will hold easily, and fill in about half an inch of water. In a few days the roots begin to spread, and so clasp each other in the course of a few weeks, that they form a natural support. If the bulbs and plate are covered with moss, it improves the appearance. For winter bloom successive plantings can be made every two weeks, from September till January. After the early part of December, hyacinths intended for glasses had better be half grown in pots, then turned out and the roots carefully freed from the soil in tepid water, then placed in glasses. In this way they will blossom sooner. The soil used to cultivate bulbs should be light and rich, full half sand. Bulbs can be grown in moss by keeping it damp. They can be raised even in clear sand. Take any ornamental dish capable of holding moisture, and fill it with sand in a pyramidal form. In the centre plant a hyacinth, and at equal distances round it plant three or more, according to the size of the dish; fill up the space with crocuses, snow-drops, dwarf tulips, &c. In planting, the bulbs should be covered with sand, all but the tops. Then place the dish of bulbs in water five minutes, in order to fix the bulbs firmly in their position. Repeat this bath once a week, never allowing the sand to become dry. Place it in the dark for two weeks, then keep it in a cool, light, airy room.

There is no bulb so well adapted to house culture as the hyacinth. They grow easily in pots or glasses. They will grow in almost any light, sandy soil; but just in proportion as this is adapted to the plant, will the perfection of their culture be attained.

For pot growing, the hyacinth, to attain its greatest beauty, should be grown in pots seven inches in diameter, and the same depth. They will grow and blossom in pots of four or five inches in diameter. Only one bulb should be planted in a pot. Two or three can be grown in larger sized pots. Put over the hole in the bottom a good drainage, half an inch or more in depth, on this either a handful of leaf mould, very old cow manure, or the coarse part of the compost; then add the prepared soil, filling up the pot to within an inch of the top. On this place the bulb, covering it with soil all but the top; press the earth gently around it, and shake the pot slightly, to settle the soil, and finish with a good watering; then either plunge the pots three or four inches in some old hot-bed, and cover with leaves, or place them in the dark, covered carefully, but in a dry place, for several weeks, to allow the roots to make a vigorous start. Water them very slightly at first, then gradually inure them to the sunlight. As the flowers expand, place a saucer under each pot, which must be kept filled with water till the flowers begin to decay; then lessen the water till withheld entirely.

For planting in glasses, the last of October or early in November will do. Use only rain or spring water. Fill the glasses with water, and place the bulb so that the roots will just come in contact with it; set them in a dark closet, or on a shelf in a dry cellar, and let them remain till the roots have started, usually in three or four weeks; then remove them to any place which is well lighted and warm, keeping them from the sun till they look a deep green; turn them around now and then, and change the water once in three or four weeks. If you perceive the roots look slimy, and the water fetid, carefully remove the bulb, and place the roots in clear water of the same temperature; wash the roots gently; cleanse the glass before replacing the bulb.

11.--GARDEN INSECTS.

In presenting this subject to our readers, it will be difficult to decide where to begin, or where to leave off. With the first warmth, aphides, or plant lice, in shoals and nations, show their unwelcome presence on our roses, geraniums, and almost all choice plants. Many of our choice fruit trees are infested with these pests of the garden. They are exceedingly prolific. Réaumur has proved that one of these insects, in five generations, may become the progenitor of nearly six thousand millions of descendants. They fasten themselves in crowds on a plant, and suck the life from it. Some live in the ground and infest the roots of plants, such as verbenas and China asters. We have often, on seeing a plant drooping, saved it by taking up the plant, root and all, and washing it in strong soap suds; replant it, after carefully scalding the earth, and digging it in. The plant should be protected from the sun for a few days, until the roots start again.

The best remedy for these plant lice is to syringe them with a solution of whale-oil soap, or a mixture of soap suds and tobacco water, used warm. Still another remedy is a solution of half an ounce of strong carbonate of ammonia in a quart of water. Where it is possible, dip the infected branches into either of the above solutions, holding them carefully in the solution several minutes.

A drying east wind makes insects abound, and rain clears them away.

The rose-chafers, or rose-bugs appear about the second week in June, and remain thirty or forty days. They infest rose bushes and grape vines. They must be carefully picked or brushed off into a basin of hot water, or burned, as they increase thirty fold, and destroy both fruit and flower.

Caterpillars of many butterflies and moths are destructive in a garden, and, when the perfect insects can be caught, before they lay their eggs, one death will save much killing. Whenever one is found resting quietly on a branch, stem, or leaf, with the wings folded, it is most likely a female about to lay her eggs, and it had better be killed. If a butterfly or moth is found so placed, dead, she will have laid her eggs; be sure to find and destroy them. As the season advances, destroy every chrysalis you find.

Possibly some of our young readers have never seen a chrysalis, and may not know what it is. We will try and explain this to you. Every species of the butterfly, or moth, is first a grub or caterpillar, crawling upon, or in the earth. These caterpillars, when they have completed the feeding stage, retire to some place of concealment, under a leaf, beneath palings, or in interstices of walls, spin a tuft of silky fibre, and entangle the hooks of their hindmost feet in it. Then they form a loop, to sustain the fore part of the body in a horizontal or vertical position. Then they spin a band over the back; and most caterpillars form a cocoon, in the shape of the letter U, around the body. Then they cast off the caterpillar skin, and become a chrysalis. In summer the chrysalis state lasts from eleven to fifteen days. Later it lasts all winter (while in this state these insects remain dormant). At the proper time the chrysalis bursts open, and a butterfly issues from it. We have often found these cocoons, or chrysalides, and taken them to our rooms to watch the coming forth of the butterfly.

Rose slug (Lelandin Rosæ), a light green, translucent little fellow, varying from one sixteenth of an inch to nearly an inch in length. There are evidently two species or varieties, one of which confines its ravages to the lower side of the leaf, the other eats it entire. The first is by far the most destructive here. In a few days after the plants are attacked they appear as if they had been burned.

The only remedy we have found is a preventive one, which, in fact, ought to be used against all insect life. We have spoken of this (and will not repeat) in our rose chapter. The only remedy, whale-oil soap, is prepared by florists by dissolving one pound to eight gallons of water. They apply it _ten_ days in succession, with a garden engine or syringe. This must be done very early in the morning, or late at night, as the slug shuns the light of day, and hides under the leaf. With very young, delicate roses, the solution is too powerful; hand work will be necessary to pick them off. English sparrows, a comparatively late importation, should be kindly treated by all, as they are the best exterminators of injurious insects. The ground, or blue aphis, and verbena mite, are among our most subtle and dangerous of pests. They work at the root, and often before we can see the plant fading, they have taken its life. The florist’s remedy is as soon as you see the least sign of drooping in your Asters or Verbenas, the plants most afflicted by them, water them copiously and persistently at the roots, with tobacco water, the color of strong tea, and apply it daily for one week. We often take up the plants and wash the roots, but it is a harsh remedy: it will kill or cure.

12.--SOME USEFUL HINTS.

We have, in studying different books on horticulture, found many opposing sentiments. Some seemed like hearsay to all former experience, yet we ought to be ready to receive all advice based upon positive experience. We intend acting upon some new theories of Peter Henderson, a famous gardener near New York. We have always supposed it very injurious to take water directly from a cold spring to water plants, and that rain water or soft water must be used, at the same temperature as the air in which the plants are growing. He says it is a foolish dogma, as the water will take the same temperature before the plant can be injured. Of course if the plant was to stand in cold water it would injure it. This will save much extra trouble; we ourselves shall profit by his advice, as he ought to know, having faithfully tried the experiment.

We have always supposed it necessary for the health of a potted plant to have a sufficient amount of bits of oyster shell, &c., at the bottom for drainage.

Mr. Henderson says, for fifteen years he has grown all his thrifty plants _without_ the use of crock, charcoal, or any other substitute, and he considers it useless trouble; he thinks the moisture escapes freely from the sides of the pot. He says when we wish to resuscitate an unhealthy plant, we wash the soil from its roots, and put in a _new_ pot, where the drainage is perfect from the sides. He has grown _millions_ of healthy plants without draining. He thinks old pots, whose pores are all filled, often cause the death of a plant. He approves of frequent change of pots, as it injures a plant for the roots to become hard and woody. In most cases the slightest tap on the edge of the pot is sufficient to turn out the ball of earth. Be careful and not take too large a pot; the size must increase gradually.

Mr. Henderson thinks it is not unhealthy to sleep with plants in the room, as we have always been taught. He says it is a common practice for gardeners to sleep in their green-house, and to be with their plants often at night, and yet, as a class, they are vigorous men. He himself, for three winters, slept on the floor of the hot-house, without any injury, and that was more than a score of years ago.

Plants can easily be sent by mail, by first washing the roots in water, then take them dripping and wrap them in dry moss, then roll around them several thicknesses of thick brown paper; the whole must be _tightly_ rolled, to prevent the dry air penetrating to shrivel the plant. In this way plants can be sent even two thousand miles at a cheap rate, as our postal laws only charge two cents for four ounces, unless the package exceeds four pounds.

13.--MOSS BASKETS.

Take a piece of the spring used in hoop-skirts, or a rattan, and make a small hoop about eight inches in diameter. Collect from the woods a quantity of the long, feathery moss, and wind a heavy wreath of this moss on a hoop, then cover a piece of the rattan or hoop-spring, sufficiently long for the handle, with moss, and fasten it to the hoop. Then take a solid bunch of this moss, the size of the centre of the hoop, and push inside of this moss-covered hoop; this forms a moss basket. Take a common plate, and place this basket upon it, and sprinkle it thoroughly with water. This basket can be filled again and again with bright flowers, casting away the flowers as they wither. The wet moss will keep them fresh as long as if placed in a vase filled with water. Now and then place this basket in a dish of water, and sprinkle it, or let the rain fall upon it. This will freshen the green tint of the moss.

Baskets covered with the knitted moss, which in our work department we have given the directions how to prepare, are very pretty. A tin dish should be made to fit it, and painted green; keep this filled with natural flowers, or French artificial flowers, which imitate nature perfectly, can be arranged in them, and if placed on a bracket, or in some place where they will not be likely to be examined too closely, they will easily pass for fresh flowers.