Part 5

Nearly all kinds of flower seeds require transplanting, therefore it is best to plant in boxes, pots, or hot-beds. Old cigar boxes are convenient, and are easily handled, but first bore holes in the bottom of the boxes, and in your pots or boxes place either broken clam or oyster shells, or pieces of old flower pots, as a drainage; then take light, rich earth and sift it or rub it carefully in your hands, to be sure there are no lumps; some bake the earth to destroy any insects which may be in it, but it answers the same purpose to pour boiling water upon it. After you have filled your boxes or pots with this prepared earth, sprinkle your seed carefully over it, and sift over them light soil sufficient to cover them, moisten them with warm water, and place the box where there is but little light, and throw a piece of paper over the top. Some use a piece of thick flannel; if you use flannel, water your seeds without removing it, until your seeds have sprouted. A warm place will start them best. Let them remain thus several days, till the seeds have a chance to swell, before you give them much light, and keep the earth moist (a sponge is excellent to water them, as it does not disturb the position of the seeds; also use warm water); as soon as you see they are sprouting, give them light, and air, if not too cold, or else the plant will not have strength to grow well. Hot-beds are the best, and can be made with but little expense, by taking some old box; and if you do not possess an old window-sash, you can purchase one of some builder for a trifling sum of money, and fit it to your box by nailing strips at the sides; dig a place the size of the box, and two or three feet deep; fill it with horse manure, mixed with straw, which is the most heating; then sprinkle soil over the top about six inches deep; place your box on the top, carefully heaping the earth around the outside, and your hot-bed is made, in which you can start your seeds and slips by either placing your boxes or pots in the earth on top of the manure, and plant your seeds and slips in them, or as many prefer, planting in the soil of your hot-bed. After your seedling plants are of sufficient size to transplant, if you first transplant them into small pots, you can easily plant them in your flower beds without disturbing the roots, and the plants will not require covering; you must first dig a hole and pour water into it, then carefully slip the plant, dirt and all, from the pots, and place into the hole made for it, and press the earth tight around it. Of course they must remain in the pot till they are well rooted. In raising slips, you need to mix in full half common scouring sand with the soil, and they must be shaded from the light several days.

All who care for flowers will desire to raise verbenas, as they blossom all summer. If you wish to raise them from seed, they should be sown in February or first of March. One secret in raising fine verbenas is change of soil. It would be better to plant them every year in a different location, but if you renew the soil it will do to plant them twice in the same bed, but never three years in succession. Indeed, flowers as well as vegetables need constant change of soil; they soon exhaust the earth. Seeds are better that are raised in locations distant from the place where they are to be sown. Flowers soon deteriorate if you continue to plant over and over from seed raised in the same spot; that is one of the reasons why seeds from Europe are generally preferred by florists. Japan Pink seed should be planted in March, in order to have them flower the first year; they are hardy and blossom also the second year. Pansy seed should be planted as early as Verbenas. Ten Weeks’ Stock, Phlox Drummondi, Double Zinnias, Lobelia, Petunias, Portulaca, Salpiglossis, Candytuft, Larkspur, &c., should be planted in April. If you desire to raise Picotee or Carnation Pinks for the next year, and Canterbury Bells and Fox Gloves, sow in April. Sow Asters of all kinds the last of April or first of May. Some of the climbers, such as Maurandya Barclayanna, Tropæolum, commonly called Nasturtium, Cypress Vine, Thunbergia, &c., need transplanting, and better be sown early. Sweet Peas should be sown in the open soil about three inches deep, early in April. It is better to soak the seed in warm water before sowing. When they have germinated, and as they begin to climb, fill in earth around them, and water now and then thoroughly with soap suds. Mignonnette should not be transplanted; sow the seed in the open soil the first of May. Candytuft and Sweet Alyssum are hardy, and the seed can be sown out of doors; but if you have once had them, they will come up self-sown. Look over your beds in spring, and take up such plants, when you have the soil prepared and beds made, then you can plant them back again where you desire. Joseph’s Coat is a very brilliant plant; its leaves are all shades of green, red, and yellow; the seed can be sown either in or out of doors by the first of May, also Golden Calliopsis. Balsams will grow better if the seeds are not planted till the second week in May, out of doors.

All the flowers we have mentioned are desirable, even in a small garden; of course there are hundreds of varieties of even annuals, but unless you have a gardener it is impossible to raise them all, for it is desirable, even in a small garden, to have some flowers raised by slips, or bought from some green-house, such as Fuchsias, Double Feverfews, Scarlet Geraniums, Bouvardias, Heliotropes, Rose Geraniums, Lemon Verbenas, Monthly Roses, Hardy Perpetuals, &c. Hardy Perpetual Roses are desirable in every garden, they grow so thrifty and blossom all summer, and with a little covering will live out all winter, and if they are showered often, early in the spring, while the dew is on the roses, with whale-oil soap suds, using a syringe to shower them, it will prevent the usual damage done by the slug. If you have a shady, moist place in your garden, there you can plant your Lily of the Valley, Double Blue English Violet, Forget-me-not, and Pansy.

Fuchsias also require some shade. Heliotropes and Geraniums will bear enriching more than most plants; frequent waterings with guano water are excellent. A table-spoonful of guano to a gallon of water is sufficiently strong. It also improves Pansies, Fuchsias, and nearly all plants except Roses. Soap suds is better for Roses and Verbenas, at least according to our experience. Nearly all plants make a finer show in a garden arranged either in beds, each variety by itself, or in clusters. Before planting your garden in spring, it is well to carefully consider the nature of each flower, and arrange your garden so that each flower can be displayed to advantage; never plant promiscuously; it is astonishing what a difference landscape gardening will make in the general aspect of even a small place. It is quite as desirable as to arrange the colors in a picture to harmonize. Even an old stump of a tree can be made beautiful by planting vines around it, or by scooping out the top and filling in soil, and planting Nierembergia, Lobelia, Double Nasturtium, Variegated Myrtle, &c., in it. Those we have mentioned blossom all summer, except the Myrtle, the leaves of which are as beautiful as many flowers.

If we ladies would spend less time on our dress and in arrangements for the table, and take that time for working in our gardens with our children, we should not only make our homes more attractive, but we should gain in health and strength. Early every spring call a family council to decide the arrangement of your flower garden. Let your boys have a place to raise vegetables as a pastime. Encourage them to diligence by promising to purchase all they will raise; in that way they can earn money to give to the poor, or for their Christmas presents; even children will take far more pleasure in giving what they have really earned with their own hands.

2.--THE QUEEN OF FLOWERS, THE ROSE.

This beautiful flower deserves especial attention, and is truly called the Poet’s flower. A rose is the type of beauty in women. A lovely maiden is called a rose-bud. A beautiful matron compared to a rose in full bloom. Its delicate and refreshing perfume is always welcome to an invalid. It adorns a bride, and is a tribute of love in decorating the lifeless remains of our loved ones.

Volumes could be written upon the beauties of the rose. A child can cultivate this beautiful flower. If you do not possess any ground, there always will be room for at least one pot with a rose in your own room.

Roses can be classified under three general heads.

No. 1.

Those that bloom only once in a season, such as Hybrid China, Provence, Sweet and Austrian Briars, most of the mosses, and all climbing varieties that are hardy in New England and the Middle States. We do not advise our young friends to cultivate this class, unless they have large gardens. Madame Plantier is the only variety which we retain in our garden. This rose is a profuse bloomer, and one of the most perfect white roses grown. We will mention some of the desirable climbing varieties which can be used for “Pillar Roses.”

Queen of the Prairies, deep rose color. Baltimore Belle, blush white, blooming in large clusters. Russeliana, crimson shaded to pink. Madame d’Arblay, creamy white. Gem of the Prairies, carmine, blotched white, very full. Superba, flesh color, clusters immense.

No. 2.

THE HYBRID PERPETUALS, OR REMONTANTS.

This desirable class is of comparatively recent origin, and obtained by hybridizing the Provence and Damask varieties with the Ever-blooming, or China. They in a measure combine the qualities of the two classes, but less of the China, as the name Perpetual is a misnomer, for the chief blooming ones in regular season of rose flowering, unless especial care is taken to cut off every flower as soon as they begin to wither, and keep the plant growing freely, then these plants will blossom twice or thrice in a season. Most of these Remontants are full bloomers, and the flowers very perfect. We will give a list of a few varieties we can recommend.

Auguste Mie, pale shade of rose, very full. Baronne Provost, bright rose, very double. Blanche Vibert, pure white, delicate grower. Caroline de Sensal, blush, pink centre, free bloomer. Géant des Batailles, reddish crimson, superb. General Jacqueminot, bright crimson, very brilliant. Jules Margottin, bright scarlet crimson. Le Lion des Combats, _very dark_ crimson purple.

No. 3.

The monthly, or ever-blooming class, are distinguished by their delicate shining leaves and stems. This class comprises four sub-classes, namely, the Noisette, Tea, Bengal, and Bourbon.

The Noisette are of rampant growth, usually flowering in clusters. In the Southern States they need no covering during the winter months, but in the North, East, and West, if buried in winter, and properly trained, they are often used as Pillar Roses, particularly the beautiful La Marque, whose pure white buds are so valuable to all florists. If planted in the ground in a green-house, it will climb all over the walls. We will name some varieties which we have cultivated, and know can be successfully raised, even in New England.

NOISETTE.

Aime Vibert, pure white, very full bloomer. America, straw color. Gloire de Dijon, blush white, buff centre. Lamarque, large, white, shading to yellowish centre. Minette, light crimson, very double. Marshal Niel, very beautiful deep yellow. Souvenir d’Anseleme, deep carmine. Solfaterre, deep straw color.

TEA.

Adam, rich rose, salmon shaded. White Tea, the freest bloomer of all roses. Camellia Blanche, pure white. Devoniensis, blush, Magnolia fragrance. Isabella Sprunt, clear canary yellow. La Pactole, canary color, free bloomer. Safrona, orange yellow.

BENGAL.

Agrippina, bright crimson. Bousanquet, blush white. Louis Philippe, light crimson. Madame Rohan, pure white. Napoleon, blush, extra large.

BOURBON.

Marshal Niel, a deep buff; the _king_ of roses. Bousanquet, rich blush, free bloomer. Duc de Chartres, large, very double, crimson. Hermosa, deep pink, _most desirable_. Psyche, light rose, very double. Souvenir de Malmaison, flesh color, very double, superb. Sombriel, blush white, one of the best.

There are comparatively but few varieties of roses suitable for producing an abundance of flowers in winter, and these would not be called the finest varieties for summer culture. They are selected for their buds. The Safrona for instance, is selected for its deep, saffron colored buds; the full flower is but semi-double. We will give the names of a few of the roses best adapted for winter culture.

Lamarque, white, tinged with straw color. Safrona, saffron yellow, free bloomer. Agrippina, rich deep crimson, free bloomer. La Pactole, light canary-color, abundant bloomer. Hermosa, rosy pink, most prolific variety. Gloire de Dijon, large, full, buff, shaded to salmon.

CULTIVATION.

The best soil for the rose is a rather stiff loam, although it is not particular about soil, but grows luxuriantly, flourishes well in a fresh loam with a plenty of pure air and sunlight. A stiff, clay loam will produce better flowers, and of a deeper color, than a soil of a light muddy character. If you desire many blossoms, be careful to cut off every rose when it fades away. We gather our roses so freely, we leave but few to wither. In the spring roses should be pruned thoroughly.

Many people have been discouraged in raising roses, on account of the slug and other insects; but nothing can flourish in this world, that is desirable, without care. So with the rose. Early in spring, just as the buds are starting, wash your roses in a solution of tobacco or whale-oil soap. If the insects appear on the leaf, syringe the bush freely, early in the morning or late at night, with a solution of whale-oil soap. Sprinkle wood ashes or charcoal dust around the roots.

A gardener invariably recommends monthly roses, rather than the so-called perpetuals. Those who purchase perpetuals, without a previous knowledge of their habits, are always disappointed in the few flowers they produce after the first blooming. Their great virtue is the hardy nature of the plant. The monthly roses bloom at the South nearly the whole year. But what shall we do with these delicate roses at the North during the winter? The best way is to lay them down, and cover with sods, or earth and manure. If the subsoil is gravelly or sandy, they will surely keep, as a good drainage is necessary, without it they cannot live. The way to lay down a rose-bush is to dig a trench four or five inches deep, up to the root of the rose, then bend your rose-bush carefully into the trench, and peg it down. Cover entirely root and branches by sods, placed grassy side upwards, forming a hillock. Or cover it with earth or sand, and straw or manure.

The next important consideration is _the time at which it is done_. Few amateurs have any idea of the amount of freezing which even the tender tea roses will sustain without injury. It often proves fatal to roses to be covered too soon. It is well to cover the ground around the roots of the roses with leaves or straw to prevent the earth from freezing. In New England, the early or middle part of November is generally the time to cover roses for the winter; in the Middle States, in December. The best rule is to let your roses remain uncovered, until the ground can no longer be ploughed, or dug with a spade. This covering can be removed as soon as vegetation fairly starts in spring. Every plant thus saved possesses a four-fold value over those planted out in the spring, as the roots have been so little disturbed. Another way is to dig a trench, line it with straw, and lay in your delicate roses, then cover entirely with earth until spring. Roses that have bloomed all summer should not be potted for winter use. They need rest, and will not flourish in warm rooms.

ROSES FOR WINTER BLOOMING.

Roses for winter blooming require a different treatment, as one essential condition of free winter flowering is, that the plant has abundance of active, or, as gardeners term them, “working roots.” Plants are started for this purpose either by cuttings struck in March, or else one year old plants are used. These plants should be re-potted frequently to prevent their becoming pot-bound. They must never be allowed to dry or wilt in the heat of summer, else the white, working roots will perish, and before the plant can regain its vigor new ones must be formed. You must not attempt to force your rose at first; when you take it in for winter, a cool temperature will be needful. It depends upon when you desire rosebuds how you treat it. It must be pruned previous to flowering. If you desire roses the first of January, prune or shorten the shoots the first of November (earlier for Christmas). They then can be placed in temperature ranging fifty degrees to sixty degrees at night, with only fifteen degrees higher during the day. Two year old plants are better for new beginners, as they form working roots sooner, having more fibres.

In the summer the plants should be exposed to the sun; but to keep them from drying, place the pots in beds of sawdust, or refuse hops, tan, bark, or sand, whichever is most convenient to obtain.

PREPARATION.

Our young friends may desire to raise their own roses, so we will give them a few directions. The best time to take cuttings is from October to January. The wood must be ripened; cuttings are usually made with three or four eyes. These cuttings are best put into a cold frame, or in a box prepared with equal parts of sand, leaf mould, and loam; all they require is sufficient protection not to freeze. Cuttings placed in such frames about the last of October, will be rooted sufficient to pot by March. Cuttings can be placed in rows quite near together, say an inch apart, and the rows three inches apart. This space allows you to press the soil firmly about each stem. One thorough watering, when put in, to settle the soil closely around them, will usually be all that is necessary until they begin to root in the spring. Some varieties will root much easier than others. As soon as they are well rooted, they should be potted in two inch pots, shaded and watered for a few days, and gradually hardened off by exposing them to the air; in this way they can be sufficiently rooted to plant in the open ground in April or May. Layering is more easily done from about the middle of June to the middle of September, always using shoots of the young growth--that is, a growth of three or four weeks old, or such as are not so much ripened as to drop the leaves; or in other words, the cut should always be made at that part of the shoot where there are as green and healthy leaves below as above the cut. This condition of the shoot is very important, in order to produce a well-rooted layer.

Another mode of layering, not in general use, is, to place the layer where the incision is made, in a three or four inch pot, sinking the pot in the ground to the level of the rim; all the roots being confined in the pot, when the layer is lifted, no check is given to them. Layers so made may be planted out in the fall, and if a little mulching is given round the roots, not one plant in a hundred will fail; while if the layering is done in the usual way, without pots, a heavy percentage is almost certain to be lost during the winter. To the florist, without proper means of propagation, this method of layering roses in pots will be found very advantageous, as every layer so made will make an excellent flowering plant by spring, if kept in a green-house or cold-pit, during the winter, and will prove nearly as valuable to the purchaser as large one year old plants.

ROSE-BEDS.

Before planting a rose, be sure to find out its nature, or you may have a tall bush where you would desire a low shrub-growing rose. In arranging rose-beds, plant the tall standards in the centre. Then a row of high bush growing roses, then a row of half dwarfs, then a row of dwarf-growing roses. If this selection of the roses in such a bed is properly made, it will be pleasant to the eye from June to October. Of course the roses should be chiefly monthlies, or free-blowing perpetuals.

3.--FLOWER BEDS.

There are a great variety of opinions as regards the most effective way of planting flower beds. Some prefer to mix plants of different colors and varieties; others prefer the ribbon style of planting, now so generally seen in Europe.

If the promiscuous style is adopted, care should be taken to dispose the plants in the beds, so that the tallest plants will be at the back of the bed; if the leader is against a wall or background of shrubbery, the others graduating to the front, according to the height. In open beds, on the lawn, the tallest should be in the centre, the others grading down to the front, on all sides, interspersing the colors so as to form the most agreeable contrast in shades. But for grand effect, nothing, in our estimation, can ever be produced in promiscuous planting to equal that obtained by planting in masses or in ribbon lines. In Europe the lawns are cut so as to resemble rich green velvet; on these the flower beds are laid out in every style one can conceive; some are planted in masses of blue, scarlet, yellow, crimson, white, &c., separate beds of each, harmoniously blended on the carpeting of green. Then again the ribbon style is used in the large beds, in forms so various that allusion can here be made to only a few of the most conspicuous.

In a circular bed, say of twenty feet in diameter, the bordering can be of blue. Lobelia, attaining a height of six inches; next plant Mrs. Pollock Geranium (this does not grow very thrifty out of doors in New England), or Bijou Zonale Geranium, growing about nine inches high. If you plant Mrs. Pollock, on the next row to it plant Mountain of Snow Geranium; if the Bijou plant, a circle of the red-leaved Achyranthus; there are several varieties of this plant. Next the Coleus Verschaffeltii; the centre being a mound of Scarlet Salvia. Another style is to edge the bed with Alternanthera Spothalata (leaves pink and crimson), which grows low and thick for a border. Then the fern-like, white-leaved Centaurea Gymnocarpa; next row, the Crystal Palace Scarlet Geranium. Then Phalaris Arundinacea Picta, a new style of ribbon grass; next Coleus Verschaffeltii; in the centre a clump of Coma or Pampas Grass.

There are a great many different ways of arranging these ribboned beds. It is pleasant to exercise one’s own taste, therefore we only give examples to teach our readers how such beds can be prepared.

Narrow beds along the margins of walks, ribbon lines can be formed of low-growing plants, such as the White Lobelia Snow-flake, or Gypsophilia, or Silver Leaved Alyssum for the front line, followed next by Tom Thumb Trapæolum; then, as a centre, or third line, Fuchsia, golden fleeced; as a second marginal line on the other side, Bijou Zonale Geranium, white-leaved, with scarlet flowers, followed by a line of Blue Lobelia. Shaded stars have a fine effect on a lawn; cut a star, and plant it either with Verbenas, Petunias, Phlox Drummondii, or Portulaca. The ends of the stars should be white, and shaded to the centre, which should be dark, each point having different colors, one shade of purple, one shade of pink, one shade of red, then shades of lilac, then shades of scarlet. The centre the darkest shades. There are many pretty ways of forming the beds of a small garden. We append one diagram of a garden, and the flowers to plant it with according to our taste.

DIAGRAM.

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