Chapter 5

_Topographical Description of the several Counties in the Province of New-Brunswick. Their Boundaries and Extent. Parishes. Rivers. Settlements, Produce, &c. Great Roads, &c._

Having, in the preceding pages, given a brief general description of New-Brunswick, I shall now proceed to give a short sketch of each County, comprising a view of the face of the country, principal streams, settlements, produce, &c. And as five of them lie along the river St. John, I shall begin at the head of that river, and follow it to its exit into the Bay of Fundy. The three remaining counties will be noticed afterwards. Following this method, (which by keeping the counties and parishes distinct, will give the reader a clearer knowledge of the country than a more elaborate account, where names and situations are mentioned without method, and described promiscuously) I shall confine myself to brevity, at the same time endeavouring to avoid obscurity; and have to lament that the want of correct information prevents me from making this part of the work as complete as I could wish.

SECTION I.

YORK.

This County commences at the Canada line, which bounds it on the north-west. The County of Northumberland bounds it on the north-east, on the south-east it adjoins Sunbury, and on the south-west Charlotte, and contains 10,972 inhabitants.

Beginning at the northern and uppermost part of the county, and proceeding down the main river St. John, the first settlement is Madawaska, situated between the Grand Falls and the Madawaska river, which falls into the St. John at the upper part of the settlement. The inhabitants are the descendants of the old Acadians, who were settled on different parts of the river St. John, and who on the arrival of the English moved up to this place, where, being joined by others from Canada, they formed this settlement distinct from the English, and have ever since been quiet subjects, and well affected to the British Government. Madawaska is about midway between Fredericton and Quebec, and is in a flourishing state. It has a Romish Chapel, where the rites and ceremonies of that religion are duly performed by a Missionary from Canada, who likewise, with the assistance of one or two leading persons regulates the internal police of the settlement by settling disputes, keeping the peace, &c. and so successful have they been that although there are neither lawyers or magistrates in the place, the Courts of Justice have had but little trouble from that quarter. The land along the margin of the river is in general good, level, and unbroken; but owing to its northern situation it is unfavourable to Indian corn; but wheat, oats, grass, &c. flourish there in great perfection. The inhabitants are all farmers, and generally raise more than they can consume, having a surplus of grain to sell to traders in the settlement or to take to Fredericton. Their manners and habits being simple, they expend but little on luxuries. Their women manufacture a coarse cloth and kerseys sufficient for their own consumption. The men are about the middle size, generally spare built and active; the women, on the contrary, are very stout and short. They are very lively and hospitable, but very slovenly in their houses and cookery. In short, they appear a different race from the English. A stranger going above the Falls, finds himself suddenly among a new race of people, different in their language, religion, habitations, and manners.

Below this settlement the country is a wilderness for some distance, comprising the lands adjoining and below the Grand Falls.

The isthmus formed by the bend of the river at the Grand Falls, was formerly cleared by the troops stationed at that post. This spot was selected at the first settlement of the Province for a military station. It served not only as a security for the settlers at that period, when the country was a total wilderness and almost impassable, being without roads or habitations, but also connected and secured the communication with Canada. Barracks, &c. were constructed and troops stationed at this place for a number of years. The works are at present in ruins; although it is no doubt one of the first interior positions in the Province. This place forms one of the great features of New-Brunswick. Here the navigation of the great river St. John is totally obstructed, and the upper part of the country disjoined from the seaboard. This points out the great importance of its situation, as the great connecting point and centre for the intercourse and trade of the upper country, whenever it becomes fully settled. Its situation will no doubt soon attract a settlement, and in process of time a town will arise, which will be the depot for goods from the seaboard, where they will be exchanged for the produce of the upper part of the country. A canal or tunnel cut through the isthmus, will probably follow. This would be of the utmost advantage to the Province, by connecting the navigation and developing the resources of the upper country, which are said to be almost inexhaustible. The distance to cut would be nearly one hundred rods. The isthmus being ninety rods across, from bank to bank, the descent of the water would be nearly half an inch to a foot.

Descending the St. John seven miles below the falls, it receives the Salmon river, a considerable stream from the east, and eleven miles farther the Restook falls into it from the westward. This is a fine river, running in a very crooked direction through a fine country abounding in excellent land and well stored with timber of the first quality. It makes to the southwest and has been explored upwards of one hundred miles, where it continues of a good width. It is supposed to be of great length and is claimed by the United States, although some of the British settlers have lately commenced establishing themselves on the river and are making very free with the pine. Three miles below the Restook, the Tobique, named for its red pines, brings its tribute to the St. John. This is another considerable river, being upwards of two hundred miles in length. Its banks to a good distance back have been covered with pines of the finest growth, which have been mostly cut off. The soil in the pine districts is not favorable for farming pursuits, but would require much labor to bring it to a state fit for cultivation. There are, however, some good Islands in the course of the river, and strips of rich land intermixed with the pine districts, and the lands adjoining the Tobique lying along the banks of the Saint John are of the finest quality; and where cultivated produce the most abundant crops. A district comprising ten miles extending along the river Saint John and embracing both sides of the Tobique is reserved for the Indians. This tract is certainly not inferior to any land in the Province, and it is a pity it should remain in its present unimproved state. The Indians have only a small clearing at the mouth of the Tobique, where they have a hut which is reserved as a Chapel, and where one or two Indians generally sit down as they term it, to watch a small crop, and keep possession.

After the peace with America in 1814, a number of disbanded, men of the 8th, 98th, and 104th regiments, and of the West-India Rangers and New-Brunswick Fencibles, were settled on this part of the river Saint John, chiefly between the military post of Presqu-Isle and the Indian reserve. Many of these settlers have made good improvements, and have already secured a comfortable independency. The wilderness has been converted into cultivated fields, covered with habitations; and the district formed into a Parish, and named after his Royal Highness the late Duke of Kent.--It extends on both sides of the river from the Grand Falls to the Parish of Wakefield. The land is of a superior quality, covered with a variety of timber of the tallest growth, and unincumbered with much undergrowth; the trees standing in most places so far apart, that a man on horse-back would be but seldom incommoded by them. This is of great advantage to the settler, as it relieves him from the great labor of clearing away the under brush, which is so troublesome in some parts of the country. Nor is this fine tract of land confined to the margin of the river, but extends back, and is found in many places to improve as you advance into the interior. The United States line approaches the river St. John within a few miles along this Parish, and they have a township laid out, embracing Mars Hill before described. It is to be regretted that many of the settlers in this Parish having formerly been accustomed to the free use of spirituous liquors, find the temptation revived by the great introduction of them by the lumber speculators, who in many instances are drawing the settlers from their domestic habits, to which they began to be accustomed, to a dissipated mode of living, to the loss of their morals and property.

Descending the Saint John, which every few miles receives the tribute of some considerable creek or river, we arrive at the Presqu-Isle. This was formerly a military post; Barracks, &c. having been erected at this place shortly after the American revolution sufficient to accommodate three companies of foot, which are now in ruins. A few soldiers were stationed here till 1822, since which period the place has been totally abandoned as a military station. The bank at this place is high and the spot where the Barracks stood very pleasant, commanding a fine view of the adjacent country, having a beautiful Island directly in front. To a contemplative mind this spot must be interesting when he reflects that the soldiers who forced their way from Fredericton through the wilderness to construct these works, have fallen by the sword and disease; that the men who projected them, as well as those who superintended their construction, are mouldering in their graves--that the conductors of the boats which transported the supplies are now no more--and that the boats are now in view from the site of the Barracks lying in the bushes and falling gradually to pieces.--If he is an old settler, this must have past within his memory, and may teach him the instability of all human affairs. Eight miles below the Presqu-Isle a stream called the Pekagomique falls into the Saint John on the eastern side. The land on this stream is very good, and a settlement is begun a few miles from its mouth, it has good mills and is well stored with timber. There are several other streams in the Parish of Wakefield, which extends on both sides of the river, till it joins Woodstock on the western and Northampton on the eastern side about sixty-three miles above Fredericton. It is a flourishing Parish, the land being of a good quality, the farms along the river are improving, and back settlements forming.

Woodstock is generally well settled. The houses are neat, and make a fine appearance as the traveller passes along the river. There are some fine islands in this part of the river, which enrich the settlers by their produce.--There is an Episcopal Church in this Parish, which has been filled ever since its erection by the Rev. Mr. DIBBLEE, who likewise officiates occasionally in the adjoining Parishes. The river Madaxnikik passes through this Parish to its exit into the Saint John, and adds to its importance, as several settlements are making along its banks. This stream has a series of cataracts, and passes by the American settlement of Houlton which lies directly in the rear of Woodstock, and commences about fifteen miles from the Saint John. From this settlement there is a road to the Penobscot river. Eel river falls into the Saint John near the lower part of Woodstock. This river heads near the sources of the Saint Croix; a short portage leads from the waters of one river to the other. Opposite Woodstock on the eastern side of the river lies the Parish of Northampton, which extends down to Queensbury. This Parish is well settled, as is the adjoining Parish of Queensbury. Several streams intersect these Parishes, the most considerable of which are the Nachiwikik and Mactuqaack.

The farms along this part of the country, are in many places well improved: but the soil is not equal to the upper part of the river. There are, however, a succession of fine Islands, which compensate for the inferiority of the upland.

There is an Episcopal Church at the lower part of Queensbury, which is filled occasionally by the Rev. Mr. SOMERVILLE, President of the College of New-Brunswick, and itinerant Missionary for this part of the country.

Prince William adjoins Woodstock on the Western side of the river. The upper part of this Parish is but little improved, a large district belonging to the Chief Justice being mostly a wilderness. The soil, likewise, is inferior to the land above. The lower part of the Parish is, however highly improved, some parts being interval land of the first quality. There are several fine lakes back of this parish, one of which named Lake George, has a fine settlement on its banks. This lake discharges its waters into the St. John, by a stream called the Poquihouk, which is an Indian name, signifying a dreadful place, and a dreadful place it certainly is. The water just before its exit into the St. John, appears to have been originally pent up by the high bank along the river. Through this it has forced a passage, and tumbles down the rocks and precipices with dreadful impetuosity. The passage through which it passes is very narrow and nearly seventy feet perpendicular, composed of large stones, which appear as if they had been laid by Masons; the whole forming a sublime and terrific appearance. There is a Chapel belonging to the Baptists in this Parish.

Several of the officers and men of the King's American Dragoons were formerly settled here, very few of whom are at present alive. Some of their descendants are occupying their lands and doing well.

The Parish of Kingsclear, which adjoins Prince William, has nothing peculiar, the soil being much the same as the latter. The face of the country is hilly, interspersed with several streams well adapted for mill seats. Many individuals of the reduced Battalion of the New Jersey Volunteers settled in this Parish, some of whom are still living and doing well. A Baptist Chapel has lately been erected here, in which worship is occasionally performed. Opposite this Parish on the eastern side of the river is the Parish of Douglas, so called in honor of the present Lieutenant-Governor of the Province. It adjoins Queensbury, and extends down nearly to the Nashwaack. The Madam Keswick, a considerable stream, intersects this Parish. This is an extensive settlement, and was formed by the York Volunteers and some of the Royal Guides and Pioneers. The settlements on the Keswick Ridge and Mactuquask lie between this stream and the main river, and are in a flourishing state. It has a back settlement on the Nashwacksis and another one still farther in the wilderness, called Cardigan, formed by a number of Welsh families from Cardigan in Wales, who came to this Province in 1819, and were located here by Government. Being very destitute, they were enabled to commence settling by a subscription of the inhabitants of Fredericton, aided by the Emigrant Society. This Parish has a Church near the mouth of the Madam Keswick, and two Chapels belonging to the Methodists and Baptists.

The Parish of St. Mary's, which formerly included the Parish just mentioned, extends to the County line, and joins Maugerville on the eastern side of the river. The river Nashwaack runs through this Parish, and falls into the St. John opposite Fredericton. This stream was settled by part of the 42d Regiment and some of the disbanded corps that had been raised in America during the war. It is settled for more than thirty miles along its banks, having a mixture of good intervale and high land along its course. About five miles from its confluence with the St. John, it receives the waters of the Peniack, a considerable stream with a settlement along its banks, and about twelve miles further up, the river Tay falls into it. There are two Chapels in this settlement, one belonging to the Methodists and the other to the Baptists. They have no stated Ministers, but are visited occasionally. The road from Fredericton to Miramichi in the County of Northumberland leads through this settlement.

The Parish of Fredericton adjoins Kingsclear, and extends to the Parish of Lincoln in the County of Sunbury. It includes the town of Fredericton, before described, with a back settlement called New Maryland, and another on the Rushagoannes. The road from Fredericton to St. Andrews passes through these settlements, and is fast improving.

The lands in the immediate vicinity of the town are not much improved. Having been reserved for the College, they remain without tenants; the settlers in this country not liking to lease farms, which are hard to clear up, when they can obtain lots for themselves by paying the grant fees. A great part of the land in the site of the town, likewise belongs to the College or Church, or is reserved for Government uses, which has been and still remains a great check to the growth and improvement of the Town.

The County of York is upwards of two hundred miles in length. A great portion of the lands in this county are well adapted to grain, particularly wheat. It is well stored with excellent timber and abounds with navigable rivers and streams. It is settling and improving very fast, and furnishes the major part of the lumber shipped at the port of St. John. Fredericton is the principal Town, and situated within four miles of the lower extremity of the County.--The inconvenience of the Courts, &c. being established at the extremity of such extensive Counties are many, and amount almost to a denial of justice to the distant settlers, who have to travel from one to two hundred miles to the County Courts. The consequence is that wrongs are frequently unredressed, and crimes, if not of a capital nature, are often unnoticed; which if not remedied will in time have a pernicious effect on the moral character of the inhabitants.

SECTION II.

SUNBURY.

Joins York on the North West, Northumberland on the North East, Queen's on the South East, and Charlotte on the South West. It stretches along both sides of the river Saint John, and contains four Parishes, with a population of three thousand two hundred and twenty-seven inhabitants. This is the smallest County in the Province, not being over twenty miles in length. It is, however, the oldest settled part of the river St. John. The first establishment of any consequence on the river was made at this place in 1761, by a number of families from Massachusetts, who having obtained a grant of a Township on the river St. John from the British Government, after exploring different parts of the country, settled at Maugerville. Here they were joined at different periods during the troubles in America, by several more families from New-England. These settlers made improvements on both sides of the river, and called the whole district Sunbury. The first commission of the peace for this place was dated 11th August, 1766, and for holding Courts of Common Pleas 1770.

The Courts of Justice mere held here till 1783, when the American war being ended and the Loyalists having settled in different parts of the country, the Supreme Court was removed to Saint John, and afterwards established at Fredericton, which was made the permanent seat of Government, and has remained so ever since.

The Parishes of Maugerville and Sheffield, on the eastern side of the river, are situated on a strip of rich intervale, which being annually overflowed, yield abundant crops and are rich in pastures.

The farms are well improved and stocked with abundance of cattle. The houses are in many parts neat and improving in appearance, and the settlers in general substantial landholders and good husbandman.

This is a delightful part of the Country for wheel carriages, the road being a continued level along the margin of the river, which is occasionally hid from the view of the traveller, by lofty trees and shrubs along the banks, which break off the piercing winds in winter and afford a pleasant shade in summer. The road, is however, unsafe in many places where the freshets have scooped away the banks and indented the road with small gullies, which being neglected by the inhabitants, endanger the overturning of carriages. In the rear of these Parishes are a chain of lakes which communicate with each other and discharge their waters into the Grand Lake, and from thence by the Jemseg into the Saint John.--Most of these lakes are environed with excellent land, and have settlements along their banks.

There is a Church belonging to the Establishment in Maugerville with a resident Pastor.--There are two Meeting-Houses in Sheffield, one belonging to the seceders, and the other to the Methodists. They have both settled Ministers and good congregations.

The Parishes of Lincoln and Burton are opposite the Parishes just described, on the western side of the river--they are situated on high land interspersed with intervale. They are well settled and the farms generally well cultivated. The river Oromocto intersects these parishes. This is an extensive stream well settled in many places, having several branches which wind through the country to a great distance. Some of these streams are settled, and mills are built at different places.--The main road from Fredericton to Saint Andrews crosses this river a little above the falls, where a blockhouse was constructed during the war for military purposes. There is an extensive tract of wild meadow along the course of this river, which yields a great quantity of coarse grass, and affords an extensive range for cattle, after the water has drained off in the summer. The land on the Oromocto and its tributary streams is generally of a good quality, but in common with most all the streams in this Province very subject to frost. The mouth of the Oromocto being very deep, is a very eligible place for ship-building, which is prosecuted here to considerable extent, timber, &c. being floated down the river in great abundance. There was formerly a good herring fishery at the falls in this river, but a mill having been built near that place it has dwindled to nothing.--There is a Church at the mouth of the Oromocto on the Burton side, in which divine service is occasionally performed by the Rector of Maugerville.--There is likewise a Court-house in Burton nearly in ruins where the County Courts are held. A stream called Swan Creek runs through Burton, but has nothing peculiar to merit a particular description.--Three valuable Islands lie in this part of the river Saint John called the Oromocto, Middle, and Major's Island. Ox-Island runs parallel with Major's Island. It is small and forms shoals near it which impede the navigation. There are also shoals at the Oromocto, which are nearly impassable for large vessels in the dry part of the season.

SECTION III.

QUEEN'S.

This County joins Sunbury on the N.W. Charlotte on the S.W. Northumberland on the N.E. and King's on the S.E. It lies on both sides of the river Saint John, and contains four Parishes, with a population of 4,741 inhabitants.

This is a good county for stock, having a number of fine Islands within its limits. The inhabitants are principally agriculturalists who have well improved farms and good stocks of cattle. The land is of an excellent quality and in general well cultivated. The soil along the bank of the river in the Parish of Waterborough is equalled by none in the Province for fertility. As the country descends to the Jemseg, the rich sediment deposited by the annual overflowing of the river, produces the most luxuriant vegetation, and although the farmer can seldom commence his labours till June, yet so productive is the soil, that in a few weeks the county exhibits the most exuberant vegetation. Indian corn flourishes in this Parish in the highest perfection: the soil being a light rich loam and the country level so as to receive the full effect of the sun. Small grain, grass, and roots are also produced here in the greatest abundance. Indeed a more fertile district can scarcely be conceived than the land from Maugerville to the Jemseg. The observations that were made about the road through Maugerville and Sheffield mill likewise apply here, very little attention having of late been paid to them, and it is probable that the statute labor is but seldom fully performed in any of those Parishes. There is a convenient Chapel belonging to the Baptists in Waterborough, which has a stated minister and numerous congregation.--After crossing the Jemseg, the country rises, and the Parish of Wickham exhibits some well improved farms in pleasant and sightly situations. The Grand Lake, the largest body of inland water in the Province, lies back of Waterborough. It is nearly thirty miles long, and from three to nine wide. A large stream called Salmon River, falls into it near the head. This stream is well timbered with pine. A short portage leads from this stream to the waters communicating with the river Miramichi. This lake discharges its waters into the Saint John, by a narrow gut called Jemseg, which is about thirty rods wide and very deep. The country on the Western side of this lake is in many places low and marshy, having the French and Maquapit lakes in its neighborhood which are settled in places. The country in the vicinity of the Grand Lake abounds with coal, which is found of a good quality, particularly at a creek called New-Castle, where large quantities have been dug. A stratum is generally found near the surface of the earth: the first layer of coal being about eighteen inches in depth, and they are found to improve in quality in proportion to the depth of the veins. The layers are nearly horizontal, and are probably a continuation of the strata found at Cape Breton, which has been ascertained to proceed in a Southwestern direction from that island, to Nova-Scotia and New-Brunswick. The Grand Lake is well settled, and has a resident Minister belonging to the Established Church. It has likewise a Methodist Chapel; but no stated minister of that denomination.

Another large lake called Washademoak, lies a little below the Jemseg, and is separated from the Grand Lake by a range of highland. This lake is from twenty-four to thirty miles long, and from two to three miles wide. A stream falls into this lake, called the Washademoak river, which rises near the bend of the Peticodiac. It has a settlement along its banks, called New-Canaan. There is a mixture of intervals and upland along this settlement, well covered with timber of various kinds. The Washademoak lake is well settled, and empties into the St. John, opposite Long Island.

The Parishes on the western side of the river are Gagetown and Hampstead. Gagetown is regularly laid out, and is the county town. It has a handsome Church, with a settled Pastor; a Court-House and Gaol, with several fine private buildings. As was observed before, several fine Islands lie in this county, one of them, named Long Island, is six miles in length and well improved. It has a neat Church, in which divine service is occasionally performed. It has likewise a tavern, with as good accommodations and as well kept as any in the country. The streams in this county on the western side of the river, have nothing peculiar to merit a particular description. Gagetown Creek runs past the Township of that name, and facilitates the navigation of that part of the country, and the Ocnabog is the tunnel through which the waters of a small lake of that name are discharged into the Saint John. I must not forget to notice that in front of Gagetown there is a bend in the river, which some ill natured person has saddled with the forbidding name of "No Man's Friend" although there is nothing unfriendly about the place, and it should rather be called "Pleasant Reach" as the adjoining country is very pleasant.

A new Parish has lately been erected in this County, called Brunswick, which lies back of Waterborough and Wickham, and comprehends the settlement of New-Canaan and the district adjoining.

SECTION IV.

KING'S COUNTY.

Lies likewise on both sides of the river Saint John, and is bounded on the North by a line running South West and North East, from the South point of Spoon Island in the river Saint John. On the East by Northumberland and Westmorland. On the West by Charlotte, and on the South by the County of Saint John. It contains seven thousand nine hundred and thirty inhabitants.

It comprehends the Long Reach, the Kennebeckasis and Belisle, and is divided into the following Parishes--Westfield, Greenwich, Kingston, Springfield, Norton, Sussex, and Hampton. Kingston has a Township regularly laid out, which bears the name of the Parish. It has a neat Church, with a resident Minister, and a number of neat buildings, which make a fine appearance. The Court-House, however, is a considerable distance from the Town. The settlers in most parts of this Parish have the appearance of comfort and affluence, although the land is inferior in fertility to most of the other Parishes. The Parish of Sussex has a Church with a resident Minister, and an Academy for the instruction of the Indians, but little good has accrued to these wanderers from that Institution. A beautiful strip of land lies in this Parish called the Vale of Sussex, which is highly cultivated and covered with excellent houses and barns.--Agriculture is in general well attended to, and its effects are evident in independent farmers, good stocks of cattle and an air of comfort and cheerfulness, the sure returns of industry and husbandry. The roads and bridges are in good order and well attended to. The great road of communication passes through this Vale to Westmorland.

The river Kennebeckasis intersects this county, and falls into the Saint John, near the Boar's Head. This is a considerable stream, and has several Islands scattered through its course. It is navigable upwards of twenty miles for vessels of any burthen, and sixty miles farther for small vessels and boats. It is well adapted for Ship-building, having abundance of excellent timber in its neighborhood, and several vessels are annually built here for the merchants of Saint John.

The Nerepis another considerable stream, falls into the Saint John at the foot of the Long Reach. This river runs a considerable distance into the country and has a settlement along its banks.

There are two quarries of excellent Plaster of Paris on the river Kennebeckasis. There is likewise a salt spring in this part of the country, from which small quantities of salt have been made by the Indians and Inhabitants settled near the place, which has proved of an excellent quality for the table, and there can be no doubt of its possessing valuable medicinal qualities; but no attention has yet been paid to analyse it. Great quantities of sugar are extracted from the sugar maple in this county, upwards of ten thousand pounds have been made in a year, of that valuable article in one Parish.

Several of the Parishes in this county have Churches, some of which have stated Pastors, and others are supplied occasionally.

SECTION V.

SAINT JOHN.

This County is bounded northerly by a line running East North East, and West South West, from the southernmost point of the Kennebeckasis Island. Westwardly by a North line from Point Lepreau. Eastwardly by Hopewell Township, and on the Southward by the Bay of Fundy. It has four Parishes. The City of Saint John, Portland, Lancaster, and Saint Martins. It contains a population of twelve thousand nine hundred and seven inhabitants. This county has several fine harbors; the principal of which is the harbor of Saint John, at the mouth of the Saint John river and which was noticed in the description of the city. This harbor has a valuable fishery for Salmon, Herring, and Shad. Formerly from two to three thousand barrels of Shad, twenty thousand barrels of herrings, and a vast quantity of Salmon were taken here annually; but the fishery has fallen off very much of late years. A Cod fishery might also be prosecuted to advantage not far from Partridge Island, but this is totally neglected. The other harbors are Quaco, Musquash, and Dippoo harbor, down the Bay, which have nothing particular. They have water sufficient for vessels of four hundred tons burthen.

The lands, in the county and along the sea-board are not so good for farming as those in the interior. They are generally very rocky and uneven. In many places they are mere barrens being covered with a stunted growth of shrubs. There are however good spots intermixed, and many places that formerly appeared doomed to sterility have been brought under a good state of cultivation. Great improvements have lately been made in farming in this county. Many new settlements have been formed and are rapidly improving. Several merchants and persons of property in the city of Saint John have lately improved farms in its vicinity; particularly on the Marsh and at Loch Lomond. It will certainly be a great advantage to the Province, if men who possess capital, employ a part of it in improving the country. By this means many poor districts of sterile land may be reclaimed, and improved by the wealth of the city; to the great advantage of individuals, and benefit of the settlement where such improvements are made: as the citizen will lay out from year to year, no more than he can spare from his other pursuits, and this when the land is once brought to a good state of cultivation will richly repay him: while the indigent settler will have labour brought home to his own door to enable him to subsist while he improves a small spot for himself, which without such a resource he could not attempt.

A great strip of Marsh lies contiguous to the city, some of which is dyked and yields excellent grass. The whole district is rapidly improving to the great advantage of the city. Several wealthy citizens have lately made great improvements here, and some fine seats are nearly completed.

The Parish of Portland contains old Fort Howe. This Fort is situated on a rugged hill at the mouth of the river Saint John, and completely commands the harbour. Portland is well built up, but the road near the Fort is very narrow, and in a wretched state, considering that it is the only thoroughfare from the city, to the Indian House, so called; which is situated in front of the bay, just above the falls, and where vessels and boats come too, going and coming to wait for the tide, and where passengers from all parts of the river land, and frequently walk over the tongue of land to Saint John, which is a little more than a mile. Passengers likewise going up the river in the Steam-Boat or Sloops, usually ride or walk from Saint John to the Indian House, and baggage and goods of all descriptions, are transported above the falls by this route, which keeps the road continually thronged, and points out the necessity of having a good and safe communication in such a public place. There is no public place of worship in Portland of any denomination: the inhabitants resort to the different places of worship in the city.

The settlements of Quaco, Manawagonish, Musquash, &c. are in a flourishing state. Considerable progress has been made in Agriculture, and there is reason to believe the country round the Bay shore is rich in minerals. Manganese has been found at Quaco, and the adjoining district, which has been sent to the United States, and is said to be of a good quality.

SECTION VI.

Having in the preceding sections briefly described the five Counties lying along the river St. John; I shall now proceed with the three remaining, commencing with

CHARLOTTE.

This County is bounded by the Bay of Fundy on the south, by the St. Croix river, and the Bay of Passamaquoddy on the west and south west, on the east by a north line from Point Lepreau, and on the north by a west line commencing in the said north line thirty-three miles from Point Lepreau, and contains nine thousand two hundred and sixty-seven inhabitants.

It is divided from the United States by the river St. Croix, commonly called the Schoodick, which is the line in this quarter that divides the territories of His Britannic Majesty from the District (State) of Maine. It comprehends several large Islands in the Bay of Passamaquoddy, and is divided into the following Parishes:--St. Andrews, St. Stephens, St. Davids, St. Patricks, St. Georges, Pennfield, Campobello, West Isles, and Grand Manan.

The Parish of St. Andrews, besides the town of that name already described, possesses many advantages for trade, being situated very conveniently for navigation. It has several Saw-Mills, and a great quantity of boards, planks, &c. are shipped from that port.

St. Stephens likewise furnishes vast quantities of sawed lumber. The mills in this parish on the river Schoodick are very numerous. More than four million feet of boards and planks are cut in this Parish annually. Ship-building is likewise carried on to considerable extent. Large quantities of shingles and small lumber of different descriptions are also furnished here for exportation. There is a Methodist Chapel with a stated Minister in this parish. The country is considerably improved, having several good farms. It has likewise a good herring fishery at the falls of the Schoodick.

St. Davids has likewise some good saw-mills. It also furnishes masts, and squared timber for shipping. The land in this Parish is of an excellent quality, and produces wheat, oats, Indian corn, potatoes, &c. in great abundance.

The Parishes of St. Patricks, St. George, and Pennfield, have each a number of saw-mills, and furnish large quantities of sawed lumber of the best quality--the country being well stocked with excellent pine. Considerable quantities of scale fish are also caught and cured here. Great improvements are likewise making in Agriculture in these Parishes, particularly in Pennfield, which produces wheat in great perfection. The settlers in this Parish are good farmers, and are making great improvements.

The Parishes of Campobello and Deer Island comprehend the Islands so called. Campobello includes the Islands on the south east side of Passamaquoddy river. It contains several thousand acres of land fit for cultivation. Many of the inhabitants are employed in the fishery along the shores. Great quantities of cod and other fish are taken about the Island, and sold uncured to the Americans. Formerly most of the gypsum exported from this Province was landed on this Island where it was shipped on board American vessels for Philadelphia and New-York.

Grand-Manan is likewise a considerable place for fishing, Ship-building, &c. and is of considerable importance in a nautical point of view, as it lies near the entrance of the Bay of Fundy. It is fourteen miles long and seven miles broad. The Northernmost point is in latitude 44 deg. 54' longitude 66 deg. 45' west.

The rivers Maggagaudavick and Digdaguash, lie in this county, and are of the utmost advantage in transporting the lumber from the interior. On each of these streams mills are erected. The Maggagaudavick runs a great distance into the country, and communicates with a chain of lakes, down which lumber is floated from a great distance. There are several falls in the Maggagaudavick--those near the mouth are nearly forty feet.

Several Islands lying in Passamaquoddy Bay are within the limits of this county. Some of them are of considerable importance, on account of the fishery, and as affording harbors for shipping.

SECTION VII.

WESTMORLAND.

Is bounded eastwardly by the line of Nova-Scotia, and the Gulph of St. Lawrence; northerly, by a west line running into the country from the northernmost point of Shediac Island; westwardly, by a line beginning at a point in the north boundary of St. John County; north, from Quaco head, and running north till it meets said west line; southerly, by St. John County and Chignecto. It contains nine thousand three hundred and three inhabitants.

This County is situated at the head of the Bay of Fundy, and joins Nova-Scotia. The line between the Provinces is the narrowest part of the isthmus between the Bay of Fundy and Bay Verte. A small stream over which there is a bridge--forming the separating line. It contains the following Parishes:--Westmorland, Sackville, Hillsborough, Hopewell, Moncton, Dorchester, Salisbury, and Botsford.

A considerable part of this county was formerly settled by the Acadians or French neutrals, whose descendants are still numerous in this and the adjoining County of Northumberland, being spread along the seaboard, to the Bay of Chaleur. They have settlements at Memramcook, Peticodiac, Bay Verte, Cocagne, Bucktouche, Richibucto, &c.--where there are several large Chapels, which are usually supplied with Romish Missionaries, who are supported by tythes from the French Catholics. But the most thriving class of settlers are the English, chiefly from Yorkshire, or their descendants. They are in general good farmers and attend chiefly to husbandry. Indian corn is but little cultivated in this county, the climate being too cool and temperate for that plant to thrive well; but wheat, oats, potatoes, &c. flourish here in great perfection. This is the finest part of the Province for stock; from the extensive tracts of salt marsh which lie in this county, many thousand acres of which are dyked and produce abundant crops. Butter and cheese are made and exported from this county in large quantities. The cattle are superior to any in the country from the great attention that has been paid by the inhabitants to crossing and improving the breed. During the American war nine hundred head of cattle, and eight hundred firkins of butter, were sent from this county to Halifax, and other places in one year, and although the demand has fallen off since the peace, there are still large droves taken from Cumberland to Halifax, and St. John--and likewise large quantities of butter and cheese.

The tides at the head of the Bay rise to a great height. They come in with successive swells of the water called the Boar, which at spring tides roll in with amazing velocity in waves about three feet perpendicular. The noise of the Boar is heard a great distance, and animals immediately take to the highland, and manifest visible signs of terror if near it. The spring tides at Cape Chignecto, Cape Enrage, and Cumberland bason, are from forty-five to fifty-five feet. Common tides at Cape Chignecto, thirty-six feet; at Cape Enrage, forty feet; at Fort Cumberland, forty-five; and at Bay Verte, from eight to ten feet perpendicular.

The shores from Cape Chignecto and Martin's Head to the Joggins, or land of Grindstones, are high, bold and rocky. On other parts of the coast they are not so elevated, but abound in most places with valuable stones of different kinds, fit for building and other purposes. Great quantities of Grindstones are made in this county, and furnish a valuable article for exportation. Nearly twenty thousand were formerly exported from this place annually, to the United States, and other places, but this branch of trade has fallen off considerably of late years.

Fort Cumberland formerly called Beausejour, is situated on the Missaguash river in this county. It was the first post fortified by the French in this Province, and was for a long while a great annoyance to the English settlers, till it was taken by Colonel MONCKTON, in 1755, who placed a British Garrison in it. The works are at present much decayed, a few soldiers are however still stationed in it.

The several parishes in this county are in a flourishing state. Some of them have neat places of worship with stated Ministers, and others are visited occasionally. Westmorland in general, is well settled, with a substantial yeomanry, and although it does not make such a figure in a bustling trade as some of the other counties, it is silently enriching itself with the slow but sure returns of Agriculture, and fast rising into importance.

The rivers in this county are the Peticodiac, Memramcook, and Missaguash with several other streams which run a considerable distance into the country. Some of them are well settled along their banks. The main road from Saint John to Cumberland follows the Peticodiac nearly throughout its whole course.

There are no sea-ports in this county of consequence. Dorchester has but little trade, and Chediac, is near the lines in Northumberland, although the river runs into this county and facilitates the export of its produce.

SECTION VIII.

NORTHUMBERLAND.

Joins Westmorland on the southward, and is bounded eastwardly by the Gulph of Saint Lawrence, and Bay of Chaleur. On the northwestward by the Bay of Chaleur to the river Ristigouche, and westwardly by a continuation of the western boundary line of Westmorland. The population of this county amounts to fifteen thousand eight hundred and twenty-nine.

This extensive county lies along the Gulph of Saint Lawrence having a great extent of sea-coast. It includes several large bays and rivers, and comprises more than one third of the Province. It contains the following Parishes:--Newcastle, Chatham, Ludlow, Northesk, Alnwick, Carleton, Beresford, Glenelg, Saumarez, Wellington, and Nelson. It is a great lumbering county, and furnishes more squared timber annually than the whole Province besides: The pine is of the best quality, and found in immense quantities along the numerous streams and rivers with which this part of the country abounds. The lumber shipped from this county generally commands a better price in the British market than from any other part of the Province. The principal port for shipping is Miramichi, which is crowded with vessels during the summer and autumn. The river has two main branches called the northwest and southwest. Vessels load in different parts of the river, and rafts are brought to the shipping with the greatest ease. Shipping go up the river as far as Fraser's Island for cargoes and farther on the northwest, where there are several trading establishments. Newcastle is a considerable place for loading, and although it may be considered the county town, has nothing particular. About two miles below this place there is a trading establishment belonging to Mr. ABRAHAMS, and two miles farther down is the establishment of RANKIN, & CO. Indeed wherever there is a convenient cove, vessels lay and load. Chatham four miles below Newcastle on the opposite side of the river, is also a considerable shipping place. It has a Church with several fine stores and buildings. There are but few places along the entrance of this river but what are convenient for shipping. Upwards of three hundred sail load annually at Miramichi. The timber is paid for part in specie, and part in British and West-India goods and provisions.

A stranger would naturally suppose, that such a trade must produce great riches to the country; and that great and rapid improvements would be made. That large towns would be built--that the fair produce of such a trade would be seen in commodious and elegant houses, extensive stores and mercantile conveniences, in public buildings for ornament and utility, good roads and improved seats in the vicinity of the sea-ports, with Churches, Kirks, Chapels, &c.: All these with many other expectations would be but a matter of course. But here he would not only be disappointed, but astonished at the rugged and uncouth appearance of most part of this extensive county. There is not even a place that can claim the name of a town. The wealth that has come into it, has passed as through a thoroughfare to the United States, to pay for labour or cattle. The persons principally engaged in shipping the timber have been strangers who have taken no interest in the welfare of the country; but have merely occupied a spot to make what they could in the shortest possible time. Some of these have done well, and others have had to quit the trade: but whether they won or lost the capital of the country has been wasted, and no improvement of any consequence made to compensate for it, or to secure a source of trade to the inhabitants, when the lumber shall fail. Instead of seeing towns built, farms improved, and the country cleared and stocked with the reasonable returns of so great a trade; the forests are stripped and nothing left in prospect, but the gloomy apprehension when the timber is gone, of sinking into insignificance and poverty. Formerly the woods swarmed with American adventurers who cut as they pleased. These men seeing the advantages that were given them, and wishing to make the most of their time, cut few but prime trees, and manufactured only the best part of what they felled, leaving the tops to rot; by this mode more than a third of the timber was lost. This with their practice of leaving what was not of the best quality after the trees were felled, has destroyed hundreds of thousands of tons of good timber: And when this was stopped by permitting none but British subjects and freeholders to obtain licenses, the business was not much mended as any person wishing to enter into the trade could, by purchasing a small sterile spot for a small trifle (provided he was a British subject) get in the way of monopolizing the woods. These are some of the causes that have and still do operate against the prosperity of the country. Men who take no interest in the welfare of the province, continue to sap and prey on its resources.

The other sea-ports in this county are Saint Peters, Richibucto, and Ristigouche, at which places there is a considerable trade carried on in squared timber, &c. but they have nothing of consequence to merit a particular description. Besides the Miramichi already described, this county is watered by several considerable rivers, the principal of which is the Ristigouche, which falls into the Bay of Chaleur, and communicates by a short portage with Grand River which falls into the Saint John fifteen miles above the great falls. The smaller rivers are numerous, some of them have settlements along their banks and others are but little known. The inhabitants are a mixture of Europeans and Americans. A number of the descendants of the French neutrals are settled in this county, particularly on the river Cocagne where there are several villages with Catholic Chapels; they are also settled at Buctouche, Richibucto and along the sea-board as far as the Bay of Chaleur. They are generally agriculturalists and quiet orderly settlers.

Having thus gone briefly through the different counties, I shall conclude this chapter with a statement of the distances of the principal points on the Great Road of communication from St. John to Quebec:

From St. John to Fredericton, 92 miles on the western From Fredericton to the Presque-Isle, 84 side of the river. From Presque-Isle to Grand Falls, 52 Thence to the Madawaska Falls, 45 To the river Des Caps near Kamouraska, 84 Thence to Quebec, 107 --- 464

making in the whole a distance of four hundred and sixty-four miles from the sea-board to Quebec, according to the present routes; nearly two thirds of which is along the great river St. John.

The great road of communication between this Province and Canada, has been much neglected, particularly about the Grand Falls where the road has been but lately cut and is but little improved, although this has been the route for the couriers upwards of forty years; but as the attention of Government is now turned to that object it is probable there will soon be an alteration for the better.

In opening new roads there is not sufficient pains taken to explore the best ground in commencing. Frequently after the roads are considerably improved, and much money expended, better routes are discovered and most parts of the old road are abandoned. To remedy this where the road runs along the course of a river it would be advisible to explore the country some distance back, for as the banks of the rivers are in many places very high the streams that run into them indent the country and form hollows and hills near their exit that are nearly impassable; when by going a little back the land falls and their banks have a gradual slope over which a good road may be made with ease. This although not a general rule, will hold good in most parts of the country.