CHAPTER XIV.

THE PARISH CHURCH, ST. NICHOLAS.

This sacred edifice is situated upon a hill north west of the town, about 160 feet above low-water mark. It is a structure of great antiquity, and was originally dedicated to St. Nicholas, Bishop of Mira, in Lycia, who lived about the commencement of the fourth century, and was the reputed patron of fishermen, on account of the following naval miracle recorded of him in the legends of that country: A certain Lycian vessel being in great danger during a storm at sea, the affrighted crew invoked the aid of this pious prelate, and lo! to their amazement and comfort, a venerable personage appeared amongst them, and exclaimed, "Here I am, for ye called me." With his help, the ship was successfully managed until the storm subsided; and then their miraculous assistant vanished. The mariners had no sooner reached the port, than they enquired for Bishop Nicholas, and were directed to the cathedral, where they beheld in him the identical person to whom they owed their safety. His feast is held on the 6th day of December, and used to be celebrated with devout dependence by the mariners of Brighthelmston, before the Reformation. But in the spirit of pious avarice or cunning, the Virgin Mary was, in process of time, made joint tenant with St. Nicholas, in the patronage of this church. "The second dedicator," says Dunvan, "seems to have shrewdly considered that Nicholas could not, either as a saint or a gentleman, object to so fair and exalted a partner; and that in case any of the seafaring inhabitants of the parish were at any time in danger, either their Holy Patron, or more Holy Patroness, would most probably be at leisure to step to their succour."

This church was given by Ralph de Cheney to the Priory of Lewes, in the reign of Stephen. But it appears from the terms of an award or arbitration between Richard de Wich, Bishop of Chichester, and William de Ruslous, Prior of St. Pancras, near Lewes, made in 1252, still extant in the episcopal archives at Chichester, that the priory obtained no full possession of this church before that period. By this award, as soon as the then Rector of Brighthelmston should die, or resign the living, the Prior of St. Pancras was to appoint a Vicar there, who was to have all the offerings of the altar, as far as they belonged to altarage, and the small tithes, viz., those of mills, sea-fisheries, mortuaries, wool, lambs, cheese, cows, calves, hogs, colts, geese, hens, eggs, flax, hemp, and of every thing that grows in gardens, except wheat and barley. He was also to have the third of the tithe of hay, and a convenient mansion assigned him. To encourage a crusade, in consequence of the capture of Acre by the Soldan of Babylon, Edward I. granted to Pope Nicholas IV. the tenths of all the monasteries and churches in England, and in the _Taxatio Ecclesiastica Angl et Walli auctoritate P. Nicholas_, 1291, occur these entries:--

s. d. 'Eccl'ia de Brighthelmston 20 0 0 Vicar' ejusdem 5 0 0 P'or Lewens.

The Vicar of Brighton was at one period saddled with a yearly pension of seven shillings and sixpence to the Vicar of Hove; and in this state the Vicarage continued, the impropriation of the great tithes vesting in the Priory of Lewes, till the suppression of that monastery, in 1538. The impropriation and patronage of this parish were granted by Henry VIII. to Lord Cromwell, his Vicar-General, who in that year, 1538, ordered a public register of baptisms and burials to be kept at Brighthelmston, and in every other parish of the kingdom.

On the death and attainder of Cromwell, the church was conferred by Henry to his repudiated queen, Anne of Cleves, and on the death of that princess, in 1557, it again reverted to the crown. In the reign of Elizabeth, the patronage and impropriation were severed, the former being attached to the see of Chichester; and so it continues to the present day. There is a great tithe on Brighton, of small extent, now belonging to Thomas Attree, Esq., Queen's Park, Brighton, as Lay-Rector, and it formerly belonged to Thomas Read Kemp, Esq., as Lay-Rector.

The church is built of cut flints and grouting of lime and coarse sea-sand, with stone coignes. The old map picture of 1545, represents the church as cruciform, and the tower circular: probably errors of the artist, whose design was doubtless more to illustrate the prominent features of the scene,--the attack upon and burning of the town,--than the architectural details of the buildings. The sacred edifice consists of a body, chancel, and a somewhat low embattled tower, surmounted by a sloping roof, in the centre of which is a cast-iron standard, in which is a flagstaff that may be raised or lowered at pleasure. An arrow vane is on its top. Formerly, within the last half-century, the vane was represented by a gilt fish, doubtless intended as the representation of a dolphin; but in 1796 a visitor, considering that the figure bore more resemblance to a shark than any other fish, penned the following verses upon it:--

Say, why on Brighton's church we see A golden shark display'd, But that 'twas aptly meant to be An emblem of its trade?

Nor could the thing so well be told In any other way: The town's a Shark that lives on gold,-- The Company its prey.

A musical peal of eight bells was cast in 1777, by Mr. Rudhall, ironmonger, of the firm Rudhall and Dudlow, North street, Brighton, now Langworthy and Reed, at his foundry, at Bristol. The tenor bell, which is pitched in the key F, weighs 1,500 pounds. The belfry had a peal previous to that date, as in the vestry minutes of October 25th, 1736, is the order:--

To new cast the great bell belonging to the parish church of Brighthelmston, to agree with Joshua Kipling, bellfounder, to charge on the parish taxes.

In March, 1790, another order was made:--

That the treble bell be repaired by Mr. Palmer.

Two additional bells were hung in 1818, making a peal of ten bells; but when the clock, at St. Peter's church, was put up, the two new bells, which did not accord with the original eight, were removed to the tower of that church, for chiming the quarters.

Doomsday Book, 1086, mentions:--

Ibide' ten' Wills. de Watevile Bristelmestune de Willo. Uluuard tenuit de Rege E. T'c et modo se defd' p. 5 hid' et dim'. T'ra e 4 car. In d'nio e' 1 car', et 13 vill'i, et ii Bord' cu' una car'. Ibi ccl'a.

TRANSLATION.

In the same place William de Wateville holds Bristelmestune of William. Ulward held it of King Edward. Then and now it defends itself for five hides and a half. The land is 4 carucates. In demesne is 1 carucate and 13 villeins, and 2 bordars, with one plough. There is a church.

The manor was that of Atlingworth, {85} and there is no doubt the church referred to was the present parish-church of St. Nicholas, which, in its original state, was of Norman construction. It consists of a nave, with side aisles, and a chancel, which is separated from the main body by a richly painted and gilded Tudor screen, over which, at no remote period, was a rood-loft. To the south, also, of the chancel is a small chantry. The five arches which separate on each side the nave from the aisles, and are supported on diagonal pillars, are of the fifteenth century. To accommodate the great increase in the population of the town, from time to time, galleries were constructed wherever it was possible to place them. In 1852, however, in consequence of the dilapidated state of the sacred edifice, the restoration of the church was determined upon. The leader in the desirable movement was the Rev. H. M. Wagner, Vicar, who having invited some of the residents and townspeople to meet at the Town Hall, on the 20th of September, in that year, and having taken the chair, stated the fact,--that many years ago, his Grace the late Duke of Wellington was a pupil of his (the Vicar's) grandfather, the then Vicar of the parish; and that the Duke was wont to worship in the Vicarage pew of their parish church. He proposed to them the restoration of the church as an appropriate and enduring monument of their gratitude and veneration for his memory. The proposition was unanimously adopted, and a committee was appointed to collect subscriptions, which in less than a month amounted to 5,000, a sum nearly equal to the outlay.

In the chantry, also, a much admired monument or cenotaph was erected to the memory of the Duke of Wellington. This beautiful work of art, sculptured in stone, by Mr. Philip, of Vauxhall, after the design of the late Mr. Carpenter, will henceforth constitute one of the most striking features of the restored church. It is in the decorated period of Edward II. and Edward III., commonly known as the Eleanor Cross. The shape is hexagonal; the height, from the base to summit, 18-ft. 6-in.; the circumference, between 15 and 16 feet. The pedestal commences with a richly moulded base, rising from a tesselated pavement. On the base of the pedestal rests a plinth, covered with diaper-work, surmounted by another moulding, on the broad chamfer of which is an inscription, in old English characters, in brass, each line being presented by an angle of the monument:--

In Memoriam Maximi Ducis Wellington, Hc domus sacrosancta, Qua ipse adolescens Deum colebat Redifcatur.

[_Translation_.]

IN MEMORY OF THE GREAT DUKE OF WELLINGTON, THIS SACRED BUILDING, IN WHICH IN HIS YOUTH HE WORSHIPPED GOD, IS RESTORED.

From the pedestal, and above the moulding with this inscription, rise two stories, richly and elaborately decorated, with open tracery-work, and crocketed pinnacles. These are separated by a pierced parapet of chaste design: and a similar one is on the third or upper, story, which is a solid stone drum. Each parapet is also ornamented by sunk and carved panels. The crowning ornament consists of a canopied niche, with a pierced spire surmounted by a finial. Enclosed within this niche, is an alabaster figure of St. George, sheathing his sword over the dragon, which lies slain at his feet, symbolical of the career of the great chieftain to whose memory the work is raised. The drum, with all above it, rests on a shaft of dark marble, polished, which springs from the pedestal, and around which winds a scroll bearing the names of four of those achievements which mark different eras in the military career of Wellington, viz.:--

ASSAYE. TORRES VEDRAS. VITTORIA. WATERLOO.

These "crowning deeds" have been well selected. Assaye represents the Duke's Indian campaign; Torres Vedras, his successful defence of Portugal; Vittoria, the victory which delivered Spain; and Waterloo, the battle which saved Europe. It is impossible to convey in words an idea of this beautiful monument, which reflects the highest credit on its designer.

Immediately in front of this memorial, is a monumental brass in the pavement, thus inscribed:--

In Memory of R. C. Carpenter, who but a short time survived the completion of his design, the restoration of this Church, MDCCCLV.

The font of the church was much admired for the sculpture which adorned it; but in 1743 its beauty was nearly effaced by the churchwardens, Thomas Stranbido, William Buckell, and G. Warden, who had it cleaned, partially re-cut, and their names carved in the base, a monument of their vitiated taste, confirmed vanity, and profound ignorance. It is of a circular form, and is raised from the floor by one step. It has excited much observation amongst antiquaries, some of whom contend for its early date, whilst others consider it only a copy; but where the original is they are at a loss to say. The sculpture upon it is in four sections. The first represents the Lord's Supper, and consists of seven figures; Our Saviour, crowned with glory, in the centre, is in the act of giving the blessing, and on the table are distributed various drinking vessels, with the bread. The next compartment contains a kneeling figure; the third, which is larger, has a boat on the sea, with the sail unfurled, and two figures, one presenting a small barrel or vessel to a bishop, who has his mitre and crozier, and the other giving bread to a female; both figures in the water. The fourth division consists of three arches, in each of which is a figure, the centre appearing to be the principal. The whole is sculptured in _basso relievo_. Over these compartments is a line of zig-zag and lozenge work, curiously chamfered, and beneath them is a row of exceedingly handsome ornamental work of leaves and flowers.

The following are extracts from a diary:--

Sunday, August 29th, 1778. Have been this morning to the sailor's land mark--to the only church in the town--and collected a number of _novelties_. The Doctor was pleased to inform us, in a religiously political, or politically religious discourse, that when men _tremble_ they are generally _afraid_; when they are in danger they should strive to _extricate_ themselves; and that _hope_ is the expectant of many great and singular _good events_.

Monday, September, 13th.--A new man and wife have just passed me.--The town's-people preserve some customs here that smack of great antiquity, and seem peculiar to the county of Sussex. At a marriage there are strewers, who strew the way from church, not only with flowers, but with sugar-plums and wheat. Why sugar-plums and wheat, I wonder? Many ceremonies have been retained longer than the history of their origin or foundation.

This system of strewing the bride and bridegroom is still pursued, not merely by the friends of the happy pair,--all couples just married are pronounced to be happy,--but by a constant group of women with children in their arms, who scatter their corn, &c., with blessings, in proportion to the harvest of _coin_ they reap.

In the beginning of the 16th century, the Rev. Edward Lowe was vicar of the parish. His successor was the Rev. John Bolt, who died on the 2nd of November, 1660. He was succeeded by the Rev. -- Falkner, who was incumbent till 1705. The vestry book of the date, "November the 2nd, Anno Domini, 1703," records that:--

That day the Reverend Mr Joseph Grave, Rector off St. Anne's, Lewes, Sent the works off Mr. Charnock, in two Volumes of his for the use off the Vicar of Brighthelmstone and his surveyvors. Each Volume having in gold letters (Brighthelmston) upon both sides off the cover. The benefactor at London would no(t) otherwise be known than by the two letters off his name, H: Y:

The same book has also the following entries:--

March 11th, 1707. John Mockford appointed Clerk at Church; part of his duty is to wash the church linen, and scour the church plate.

July 8th, 1713. William Cousins appointed Sexton; Mary Bridger to be equal partner.

March 31st, 1800. That Thomas Waring be appointed beadle and cryer at a salary of Twenty pounds and Cloathes. It is understood that his duty is to make the poor books, the Church Book, the surveyor's book, and the Town book. He is also to attend the North and west galleries of the Church on Sundays. He is to go round the town with the Officers to make the Militia list, and is likewise to officiate as Headborough in the Town; but not elsewhere, and to be sworn for that purpose.

The Rev. William Colbron succeeded to the vicarage in 1705, and held it till his death, on the 20th of July, 1750. The next vicar of Brighthelmston, was the Rev. Henry Michell, who was born at Lewes, in 1714. He finished his studies at the University of Cambridge, and having obtained a fellowship in Clare-Hall college, he, at the age of 25 years, was made rector of Maresfield; and, five years afterwards, the Bishop of Chichester collated him to the Rectory of West Blatchington, and the Vicarage of Brighton. In 1747, he married the only daughter of the Rev. Francis Reade, of Bedford, by whom he had sixteen children. A marble tablet in the church fully delineates his estimable character and profound learning.

The "Magna Britannia" says:--"The church is a vicarage, but meanly endowed. The vicar claims the old episcopal custom of a penny per head, (commonly called smoak money, or a garden penny) as also he requires, as his due, a quarter of a share of all fishing vessels. {89} The parsonage tythes are about 100 per annum, but are in the hands of an improprietor, who allows the Vicar no benefit from them, by which means his maintenance is very small: and therefore the neighbouring gentlemen have augmented it by a subscription of 50 per annum, on condition he shall instruct fifty poor boys of the town in reading and writing. The church stands about forty rods from the town, at a little distance from the sea. There was formerly another church, near the middle of the town, which is said to have been burnt by the French."

The Rev. Mr. Michell, died on the 31st of October, 1789, and was succeeded by the Rev. Thomas Hudson, who commenced the chapel of ease, in Prince's place, known as the Chapel Royal.

Mr. Hudson died in 1804, and was succeeded by the Rev. Robert James Carr, afterwards Dr. Carr, of Chichester, and then Bishop of Worcester. The present Vicar, the Rev. Henry Michell Wagner, grandson of the Rev. Henry Michell, {90} was his successor, August 1st, 1824; and during the time he has held the appointment, the number of places of worship attached to the Established Church, which have been erected, will testify his zeal in the support of our Holy Religion.

In 1824, Nathaniel Kemp, Esq., presented the church with a beautiful Communion Service of silver, consisting of a flagon, two cups, and two plates, thus inscribed: "Given by Nath. Kemp, Esq., and Augusta Caroline, his wife, to the Church of St. Nicholas, Brighthelmston. Anno Domini, 1824."

Upon stripping the roof on the restoration of the church, in 1852, three several pieces of inscribed cast lead were preserved, and they are now fixed to the walls of the tower in the chamber below the bell story. One piece has been already described in page 74, the others are as follows:--

[Picture: Coat of arms] EDWARD LOWE, VICAR.

THOMAS FRILAND. JOHN SCRAS.

THOMAS ROBERTS. HENERY SMITH.

RICHARD ROSSUM. RICHARD HERMAN.

CHVKCHWARDENS. CHVRCHWARDENS.

1 6 7 5 A O DOM N

JOHN VANDYKE 16 77.

PLVMER.

Between the lines of names and the figures of the date, on the first represented piece of lead, are raised characters, twenty-one in number, intended to denote dolphins, the Arms of Brighton.

Previous to the restoration of the building, the Church, both inside and out, had undergone many changes, to afford space; low, gloomy galleries, scarcely permitting headway for the congregation when standing, whilst the common house-shaped and dormant windows disfigured it in all directions. In a dark gallery at the west, in 1813, was placed an organ, {91a} built by Lincoln. It was opened on the 7th of March, that year, by Mr. Nathaniel Cook. A small organ loft occupies the space over the vestry room, but it does not at present boast of an organ. Formerly there were several tablets on the belfry walls, recording peals which had been rung in the tower. Their places are now occupied by sundry monuments that were formerly fixed in other parts of the edifice; and some few of the ringing records have been removed to the club-room of the Brighton Society of Change Ringers, at the Running Horse Inn, King street, {91b} while the remainder fell into the hands of a marine-store dealer. The Running Horse Inn was formerly known as the Hen and Chicken; and in 1792, and for several years afterwards, was kept by Mr. John Pocock, who at that time was a sawyer by occupation. In 1795, he received the appointment of Clerk at the Chapel Royal, when that place of public worship was first opened; and after retaining the situation for thirteen years, he was appointed Clerk of the Parish, in which office he continued for thirty-eight years, dying on the 13th of June, 1846, at the ripe old age of four score and one years. The oldest ringers' tablet preserved is thus inscribed:--

May 24th, 1779, was rung in this tower by the Society of Cumberland Youths, a true and complete peal of 11,088 changes, Bob Major, performed in six hours and fifty minutes, in order as follows, viz:

George Cross Treble, London. Thomas Jones 2nd, Horsham. Thomas Lintott 3rd, Horsham. Joseph Willard 4th, Chiddingly. Edward Simmonds 5th, Islington. John Wheatly 6th, Epsom. James Wilson 7th, Cuckfield. B. Simmonds Tenor, Leatherhead.

N.B.--The Bobs were called by G. Cross.

The most commemorative is:--

On January 29th, 1820, being the accession of King George IV., was rung in this tower, by the Brighton Society of Change Ringers, a true and complete peal of 5,040 changes of Bob Major, in three hours and six minutes, by persons in order as follows, viz.:--

William Reynolds Treble. John Pocock 5th James Parsons 2nd James Potter 6th Richard Bodle 3rd William Wells 7th Edward Honeyset 4th Isaac Tester Tenor. Conducted by Isaac Tester.

The present sexton is Mr. John Shelley, who succeeded his father, Mr. William Shelley, on his retirement from the office, at Easter, 1860. The predecessor of Shelley, sen., was Mantell, the successor of Richard Jeffery, in July, 1806.