Part 1

American Historic Towns

HISTORIC TOWNS OF THE WESTERN STATES

Edited by LYMAN P. POWELL

Illustrated

G.P. PUTNAM'S SONS NEW YORK & LONDON The Knickerbocker Press 1901

COPYRIGHT, October, 1901 BY G.P. PUTNAM'S SONS

The Knickerbocker Press, New York

PREFACE

In presenting to the reading public this fourth volume in the series of _Historic Towns_, a volume which brings the series to a close, it is in order for the editor to call attention to the necessarily large measure of liberty accorded to the contributors in their treatment of the records of the several towns. With several of his co-laborers the editor has on one point or another found himself at variance. Examples of such difference of conclusions are presented in the references to the Mormons and to the Mound-builders.

The editor bears in mind, however, the essential difference between editorial responsibilities and those belonging to the writers of the papers. It was his duty to choose as contributors not writers who necessarily share his own view, but those who are most fairly representative of the towns described, who possess the necessary familiarity with the historic records, and whose narratives would be assured of an appreciative and sympathetic reception from their fellow-townsmen,--men who love their town

"with love far-brought From out the storied Past, and used Within the Present."

In the studies of Western history made by the editor during the past ten years, two historians have been his inspiration: Francis Parkman, of blessed memory, revered by all who love good literature and good history; and Theodore Roosevelt, now by the will of God President of the United States, and a trustworthy and inspiring writer of our nation's history long before he took his place among its distinguished makers.

In offering to the public this final volume of _American Historic Towns_, the editor ventures to hope that by thus focalizing and localizing Western history, the publishers, authors, and editor are contributing somewhat to the popular knowledge of and interest in the history of the Great West which Parkman and Roosevelt first made possible.

Since with this volume the series is brought to a close, the editor trusts that the publishers, Messrs. G.P. Putnam's Sons, will lay aside their reluctance to be mentioned in the Preface, and will permit the editor to express his admiration and indebtedness for their share, larger than is usual with publishers, in the production of the series. To his wife, Gertrude Wilson Powell, acknowledgment is also due for aid given in this as in the earlier volumes, the full value of which cannot here be indicated. Besides making two important contributions to the volume, Messrs. R.G. Thwaites and Harold Bolce have ever been ready with suggestion and counsel, always valued and almost always followed. To Doctors Talcott Williams, Albert Shaw, and George Petrie, the editor would speak this last word of gratitude for cordial and skilled assistance in connection not alone with this book but with the whole undertaking. This closing volume now goes out, with the editor's best-wishes, to the earlier friends of the series and to the new friends yet to be gained for it.

LYMAN P. POWELL.

ST. JOHN'S RECTORY, LANSDOWNE, PENNSYLVANIA, September 21, 1901.

CONTENTS

PAGE

INTRODUCTION Reuben G. Thwaites xix

MARIETTA Muriel Campbell Dyar 1

CLEVELAND Charles F. Thwing 31

CINCINNATI Milton E. Ailes 55

DETROIT Silas Farmer 87

MACKINAC Sara Andrew Shafer 121

INDIANAPOLIS Perry S. Heath 147

VINCENNES William Henry Smith 169

CHICAGO Lyman J. Gage 197

MADISON Reuben G. Thwaites 235

MINNEAPOLIS } Charles B. Elliott 265 AND ST. PAUL }

DES MOINES Frank I. Herriott 301

ST. LOUIS William Marion Reedy 331

KANSAS CITY Charles S. Gleed 375

OMAHA Victor Rosewater 401

DENVER John Cotton Dana 425

SANTA FÉ Frederick Webb Hodge 449

SALT LAKE CITY James Edward Talmage 479

SPOKANE Harold Bolce 509

PORTLAND Thomas L. Cole 535

SAN FRANCISCO Edwin Markham 569

MONTEREY Harold Bolce 617

LOS ANGELES Florence E. Winslow 645

INDEX 685

ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

THE DEARBORN MONUMENT _Frontispiece_

MARIETTA

MARIETTA 3

GENERAL RUFUS PUTNAM 7

OLD BLOCKHOUSE, MARIETTA 9

THE MILLS HOMESTEAD, MARIETTA 17

HARMAN BLENNERHASSETT 19

MRS. BLENNERHASSETT 21

MARIETTA COLLEGE BUILDINGS 23

MOUND CEMETERY, MARIETTA 25

OHIO COMPANY'S LAND OFFICE 27

OLD TWO HORN CHURCH 29

CLEVELAND

VIEW IN GORDON PARK 33

CHAMBER OF COMMERCE, CLEVELAND 35

SOLDIERS' AND SAILORS' MONUMENT, CLEVELAND 38

ARMORY OF THE CLEVELAND GRAYS 42

LAKE IN WADE PARK, SHOWING ADELBERT COLLEGE IN THE DISTANCE 45

PERRY'S MONUMENT, WADE PARK, CLEVELAND 48

CHARLES F. BROWNE ("ARTEMUS WARD") 49

CONSTANCE FENIMORE WOOLSON 50

GARFIELD MEMORIAL, CLEVELAND 52

CINCINNATI

TYLER-DAVIDSON FOUNTAIN 59

ENTRANCE TO SPRING GROVE CEMETERY 65

RACE STREET, CINCINNATI 69

CITY HALL, CINCINNATI 73

CHAMBER OF COMMERCE, CINCINNATI 77

SUSPENSION BRIDGE 79

RESERVOIR, EDEN PARK 83

DETROIT

CADILLAC SQUARE SHOWING CITY HALL AND MAJESTIC BUILDING 89

THE DETROIT RIVER FROM "WINDMILL POINT," 1838 93 From a Pencil Drawing.

WEST GRAND CIRCUS PARK 97

WAYNE COUNTY BUILDING, FACING CADILLAC SQUARE 103

COLONEL ARENT SCHUYLER DE PEYSTER 112

EVACUATION DAY TABLET, ON POST-OFFICE 113

GENERAL GRANT'S HOME IN DETROIT 115

HURLBUT MEMORIAL GATE ENTRANCE TO WATER-WORKS PARK 117

MACKINAC ISLAND

OLD MISSION CHURCH (CIRCA) 1823, MACKINAC ISLAND 123

ARCH ROCK, MACKINAC ISLAND 127

SUGAR LOAF ROCK, MACKINAC ISLAND 131

OLD BLOCKHOUSE (1780) OVERLOOKING THE LAKE 135

"OLD STONE QUARTERS," FORT MACKINAC, 1780 137

SIGNATURES OF THE CHIPPEWA CHIEFS, WHO, IN 1781, DEEDED THE ISLAND TO KING GEORGE III 139

From "Mackinac," by John R. Bailey, M.D., Brevet Lieut.-Col., U.S.V., by whose kind permission they are here reproduced.

FORT MACKINAC, AND THE CANNON CAPTURED BY COMMODORE PERRY 141

REV. ELEAZAR WILLIAMS 143

Reproduced from Latimer's "Scrap-Book of the Revolution," by permission of A.C. McClurg & Co.

INDIANAPOLIS

THE OLD STATE HOUSE, INDIANAPOLIS 149

THE NEW PUBLIC LIBRARY, INDIANAPOLIS 151

BENJAMIN HARRISON 153

STATE HOUSE, INDIANAPOLIS, EAST FRONT 155

SOLDIERS' MONUMENT, INDIANAPOLIS 159

MARION COUNTY COURT HOUSE 161

COLUMBIA CLUB, INDIANAPOLIS 163

THE HENDRICKS MONUMENT 165

VINCENNES

EARLY FRENCH SETTLERS AT VINCENNES 175

FORT SACKVILLE, 1779 179

CLARK AND HIS MEN CROSSING THE RIVER 181

GENERAL GEORGE ROGERS CLARK 187

WILLIAM HENRY HARRISON 192

ST. XAVIER'S CHURCH, 1779 193

CHICAGO

THE DEARBORN MONUMENT 203

THE UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT BUILDING, CHICAGO 207

AUDITORIUM HOTEL, CHICAGO 211

THE ART INSTITUTE, CHICAGO 215

STATUE OF ABRAHAM LINCOLN 219 By St. Gaudens.

RUINS OF THE GREAT FIRE, CHICAGO 223

PUBLIC LIBRARY, CHICAGO 231

MADISON

THE STATE HOUSE, MADISON 237

THE FIRST EXECUTIVE RESIDENCE (STILL STANDING) IN USE BY GOVERNOR DOTY 241

PROFILE ROCK ON LAKE MENDOTA 244

VIEW OF MADISON ACROSS LAKE MONONA 247

THE FIRST STATE HOUSE, MADISON 251

MADISON FROM THE STATE HOUSE, SHOWING UNIVERSITY BUILDINGS IN THE DISTANCE 253

PROFESSOR WILLIAM FRANCIS ALLEN 254

UNIVERSITY HALL, STATE UNIVERSITY 257

STATE HISTORICAL LIBRARY BUILDING 259

GENERAL LUCIUS FAIRCHILD 262 Ex-Minister to Spain.

MINNEAPOLIS AND ST. PAUL

THE FALLS OF ST. ANTHONY ABOUT 1850 267

TOWER AT FORT SNELLING 269 The Original "Fort" now used as a Guard-House.

ALEXANDER RAMSEY 272

COURT HOUSE AND CITY HALL, MINNEAPOLIS 275

FALLS OF ST. ANTHONY DURING HIGH WATER 279

THE MILLING DISTRICT 281

PUBLIC LIBRARY, MINNEAPOLIS 284

OLE BULL MONUMENT IN LORING PARK 286

LORING PARK, MINNEAPOLIS 289

THE FALLS OF MINNEHAHA 291

THE CAPITOL, ST. PAUL 295

A CALM EVENING 299

DES MOINES

FORT DES MOINES IN 1844 303

KEOKUK AT THE AGE OF 67 307 From a Daguerreotype taken in 1847.

IOWA SOLDIERS' AND SAILORS' MONUMENT 315

GOVERNOR SAMUEL J. KIRKWOOD 319

HON. JOHN A. KASSON 324

THE CAPITOL, DES MOINES 325

THE IOWA HISTORICAL LIBRARY 327

ST. LOUIS

COLONEL AUGUSTE CHOUTEAU, ONE OF THE FOUNDERS OF ST. LOUIS 334 From a painting in Missouri Historical Society Collection.

THE OLD CHOUTEAU MANSION, BUILT FOR LACLEDE IN 1765 336 From a Daguerreotype in Missouri Historical Society Collection.

OLD FRENCH POST-HOUSE, BUILT IN 1770, INHABITED UNTIL 1870 341

OLD MOUND, ST. LOUIS. REMOVED IN 1869 346 From a photograph in Missouri Historical Society Collection.

WASHINGTON UNIVERSITY AS PROJECTED, NOW UNDER CONSTRUCTION 359

ST. LOUIS IN 1854 365 From a print in Missouri Historical Society Collection.

EADS BRIDGE AT ST. LOUIS 367

FOREST PARK, ST. LOUIS 369

UNION STATION, ST. LOUIS 371

KANSAS CITY

KANSAS CITY FROM THE SOUTH 377

JACKSON COUNTY COURT HOUSE, KANSAS CITY 379

CONVENTION HALL, KANSAS CITY 383

THE CITY HALL, KANSAS CITY 387

THE POST OFFICE, KANSAS CITY 391

A BIT OF GLADSTONE BOULEVARD, KANSAS CITY 393

THE STOCK YARD EXCHANGE, KANSAS CITY 396

THE PUBLIC LIBRARY, KANSAS CITY 397

OMAHA

ALFRED D. JONES 402

WILLIAM P. SNOWDEN, OMAHA'S FIRST WHITE SETTLER 404

A TYPICAL OMAHA INDIAN 407 Reproduced by permission of F.A. Rinehart, Omaha.

THE HIGH SCHOOL, OMAHA, ON THE SITE OF THE OLD CAPITOL 411 Reproduced by permission of Heyn, Omaha.

THE CITY HALL 414

RETURN OF THE FIRST NEBRASKA VOLUNTEERS, AUG. 30, 1899 417

THE PUBLIC LIBRARY, OMAHA 419

THE OMAHA EXPOSITION, 1898 421 Reproduced by permission of F.A. Rinehart, Omaha.

DENVER

SOURCES OF TERRITORIAL ACQUISITION IN COLORADO 427

DENVER, COLORADO 429

"SMOKY" JONES 431

THE PRAIRIE SCHOONER, THE PROPER CREST FOR THE COAT-OF-ARMS OF THE WEST 433

FIRST SCHOOLHOUSE IN DENVER 435

FACSIMILE LETTER FROM WM. N. BYERS, THE FOUNDER OF THE "ROCKY MOUNTAIN NEWS" 439

PROSPECTING PARTY, RICO, COLORADO, 1880 441

RICO, COLORADO, IN 1880, A TYPICAL MINING CAMP 443

WILLIAM GILPIN 444

THE CAPITOL, DENVER 445

SANTA FÉ

THE SO-CALLED OLDEST HOUSE IN SANTA FÉ 451

FORT MARCY AND THE PARROQUIA, SANTA FÉ 455

SAN MIGUEL CHAPEL BEFORE ITS RESTORATION 457

SAN MIGUEL CHAPEL IN 1899 465 From a photograph by A.C. Vroman, Pasadena, Cal.

CHRISTOPHER ("KIT") CARSON 467

THE OLD PALACE AT SANTA FÉ 471

SANTA FÉ IN 1846 473

THE TERRITORIAL CAPITOL, COMPLETED IN 1900 474

SALT LAKE CITY

PAVILION OF SALTAIR, GREAT SALT LAKE 481

BRIGHAM YOUNG 483 Founder of Salt Lake City.

EAST TEMPLE STREET, LOOKING SOUTH FROM THE TEMPLE 485

JEDEDIAH M. GRANT, FIRST MAYOR OF SALT LAKE CITY 491

EAGLE GATE 492

BRIGHAM YOUNG MONUMENT 495

MAIN STREET IN 1861 497

HOUSE BUILT IN 1847 WITHIN THE OLD FORT 499

MORMON TEMPLE 501

MORMON TABERNACLE 503

CITY AND COUNTY BUILDING, SALT LAKE CITY 505

LION AND BEE-HIVE HOUSES 506

SPOKANE

THE COUNTY COURT HOUSE, SPOKANE 511

THE LAST CHIEF TO INTIMIDATE THE INHABITANTS OF SPOKANE 516

THE CITY HALL, SPOKANE 519

J. KENNEDY STOUT 522

THE "SPOKESMAN-REVIEW" BUILDING 525

MIDDLE FALLS, SPOKANE 529

MIDDLE FALLS, ECHO FLOUR MILLS, AND OLD POWER HOUSE 531

PORTLAND

JOHN JACOB ASTOR 537

ASTORIA IN 1811 541 Based on a print in Gray's "History of Oregon."

FORT VANCOUVER, 1833 545

THE CITY HALL, PORTLAND 555

PORTLAND IN 1850 557

THE PORT OF PORTLAND 559

JUDGE MATTHEW P. DEADY 560

VIEW OF PORTLAND, 1900 561

A CORNER IN CHINATOWN 563

THE PORTLAND 565

SAN FRANCISCO

VIEW NORTHWEST FROM SPRECKEL'S BUILDING 571

THE DISCOVERY OF SAN FRANCISCO BAY 575 From the painting by A.F. Mathews.

MISSION DOLORES, BUILT IN 1776 577

SEAL OF THE VIGILANCE COMMITTEE 588

UNION DEPOT 597

CHINESE PHARMACY 599

CHINESE GROCERY STORE 603

SMOKING ROOM, CHINESE RESTAURANT 604

A BUSINESS CENTRE 605

PRAYER-BOOK CROSS, GOLDEN GATE PARK 608

SEAL ROCK AND CLIFF HOUSE 609

CITY HALL, SAN FRANCISCO 611

LELAND STANFORD 612

THOMAS STARR KING 613

HENRY GEORGE 615

MONTEREY

JUNÍPERO SERRA, FOUNDER OF MONTEREY 618

CARMEL MISSION (RESTORED) 620

TWILIGHT, MONTEREY BAY 621

SAN CARLOS CHURCH 624

OLD MEXICAN JAIL 630

FISHING VILLAGE 636

ANCIENT CYPRESS AT CYPRESS POINT 637

STATUE OF JUNÍPERO SERRA 638

OLD MEXICAN CUSTOM-HOUSE 641

ANCIENT ADOBE CABIN, MONTEREY 642

LOS ANGELES

BELLS OF SAN GABRIEL 647

SAN DIEGO MISSION, FOUNDED 1769 649

THE PUEBLO OF LOS ANGELES. EARLY SPANISH PLAN 653 Suertes from C. to E.

DON PIO PICO 655 The Last Mexican Governor.

DON ANTONIO F. CORONEL, WITH SPANISH CANNON BROUGHT TO SAN DIEGO BY SERRA IN 1769 657

THE OLD PLAZA CHURCH, LOS ANGELES 659

A TYPICAL COTTAGE 663

JOHN C. FRÉMONT 666

OLD ADOBE, FRÉMONT'S HEADQUARTERS 671

FIRST STAGE IN THE ASCENT OF MT. LOWE, CONNECTING WITH ELECTRIC ROAD ON ECHO MOUNTAIN 673

A MODERN RESIDENCE 677

STATE NORMAL SCHOOL 679

THE COURT HOUSE, LOS ANGELES 681

IMPROVED HARBOR OF SAN PEDRO, PORT OF LOS ANGELES 683

INTRODUCTION

BY REUBEN G. THWAITES

The first two volumes of this series--those devoted to the historic towns of New England and the Middle States--dealt with communities each group of which has had for the most part a common origin, has progressed along practically parallel lines, and possesses characteristics closely akin. The volume upon the towns of the South brought closely to view the cosmopolitan character of the population which has settled our continent to the South and Southwest of the Appalachian wall. The stories of Baltimore, Washington, Richmond, Charleston, Savannah, and St. Augustine bring into view widely-different origins, experiences, and interests along a single stretch of coast; while Mobile and New Orleans, Knoxville, Nashville, and Louisville, Vicksburg and Little Rock, are groups representing chapters in our history which appear to have but slight connection save in the view of those who have closely studied the mainsprings of American development.

The present volume represents even a wider range of historical interest. The attentive reader will, however, discover that although these towns of the far-stretching trans-Alleghany region have sprung from curiously divergent beginnings, and are apparently incongruous in composition and in aims, there really is and has been much in common among them.

In order to understand Western history, one must first have knowledge of the details of the titanic struggle for settlement in North America, made respectively by Spain, France, and England. The early decline of Spanish power north of the Red and the Arkansas, save for the later temporary holding of Louisiana; the protracted tragedy which ended on the Plains of Abraham in the Fall of New France; the Revolution of the English colonists, and its portentous results; the Louisiana Purchase of 1803; the Mexican War, the episode of California, the story of Texas, with their consequent ousting of Spain from lands north of the Rio Grande and the Gila--all these are factors bearing the closest relation to the history of the West, and consequently of many of the historic towns whose stories have been grouped within these covers.