Part 2

The luff of a mainsail should be pulled on until it is taut, but it should never be sweated until the bolt-rope is nigh to parting. The peak should be hoisted until the proper draft appears in the luff. In light airs a better draft will be had by slacking both peak and luff and by hauling up the weather lift, so as to take the weight of the boom off the canvas. The lighter the wind the more baggy your sail wants to be.

STOWING SAILS:

If you are not going to stay on board, do not stow your sails in tight rolls; make up loosely and tie well; but be sure that the air can get at the canvas. It is the weather, not work, that wears out sails.

SAIL COVERS:

Sail covers are the sailmaker’s best friend. They destroy more sails than any other one thing. If a boat has a crew always on board, or someone constantly near to look after the canvas, they are very useful contrivances, but should never be left over sails for days at a time; the moisture collects under them and rots the cloth.

STORM JIBS:

Storm jibs, as shown in most sail plans, are altogether too small, and are of no use whatever. When a sail of that size would be any good it would be blowing too hard to use any canvas forward of the mast. A storm jib wants to be big enough to give the boat some life. To do this it must have a pull to it. They should be roped heavily, and have good strong clew pieces and irons. The only way to set them is flying.

SHIFTING JIBS IN HEAVY WEATHER:

If you have to shift jibs in a blow, with a heavy sea running, it is an extremely difficult and sometimes dangerous job. The jib you are going to set should be stopped up, as it is much easier to handle in that form. In getting in a jib at such times be very careful about how you slack off the sheet, as men are frequently knocked off a spar or hurt by the sheet being let fly while they are on the bowsprit. Don’t have any more men forward than are actually needed to shift the sails, as their weight will depress the boat’s head and make it wet working.

COILS OF GEAR:

If your running gear is stowed around the mast when underway in bad weather, it is a good plan to trice the coils up in the rigging. Here it will not get washed loose and tangled up, and can be readily found and handled. Gear in the coil should always be kept clear for running; nothing looks worse, or is worse, than a mess of halyards lying about a boat’s deck or cockpit. Teach your crew to always coil down the gear at once, and to always turn the coil over, so that it will run clear when let go.

RUNNING GEAR:

The ends of all halyards, sheets and lifts should be made fast, if you are going to sail at night, or in rough weather, as they are liable to get adrift and cause a lot of trouble before being recovered. Frequently, when letting the sail run in a hurry, the halyards will bunch and go aloft; if the end is fast you can easily recover them. The readiest way to make the end fast is to open the strands and pass the pin or cleat through the rope.

RUNNING RIGGING:

The length of life of your running rigging can be increased by turning the rope end-for-end, thus bringing a new part to work in the blocks. Sheets are apt to wear and strand where they play in the block when the boat is close-hauled.

JIB SHEETS:

If your jib sheets are rove double bring both ends aft and join them behind the cockpit; then the hauling part will not get away from you, and can always be found, even in the darkest night. Another way is to bore a hole in the cockpit rail, pass the end through and knot it.

PEAK DOWNHAUL:

In heavy weather always bend a peak downhaul. Take a long enough piece of good flexible manila and splice an eye in it. Put this eye over the end of spar, and make the loose end fast to a lower hoop, or on the pin rail. With this downhaul you can control the gaff and get the peak down, no matter how hard it blows.

MAINSAIL HOISTING ON TRACK:

Sails having their luff running on a track up the mast will frequently stick, despite the assurances of the inventor and vendor of these patent devices. To insure working, keep the track well-greased, and let go the throat halyards before you do the peak, always keeping the gaff at a high angle while lowering down. In this way the weight of the gaff will force the slides down the track.

REEFING AT NIGHT:

If sailing at night, and it looks at all like bad weather coming, get in a reef in your large sail before dark, as you can do it then quickly and properly. If suddenly struck by a heavy wind you will have your boat better prepared to meet it.

REEFING:

If you carry an amateur crew you should constantly practice them at reefing. Give each man his station, and teach him to keep it, and not interfere with the work of the others. It is a good plan when sailing on a breezy day to reef and shake out several times, as this will give your crew practice. A well-trained crew will reef a mainsail of a small yacht in less time than it takes to write this.

TACKS FOR REEFING:

Always keep a tack in your sail at each reef band. Take a short piece of small rope, whip both ends, pass this through the cringle, making each end the same length, then open the rope just under the cringle and pass the other part through it. Your tack will stay there and always be ready to tie down.

PENDANTS FOR REEFING:

These should always be kept rove, if the end of the boom is outboard. If the sail is a small one, put a snap-hook on the end that goes in the cringle, but do not trust hooks if the sail is heavy; splice your rope in.

REEFING:

When reefing a boom sail, before lying along make sure that the mainsheet is fast, so that it cannot slip, as this happening is likely to throw you overside. If the boat is rolling badly it is best to secure the boom with a lashing from each side to hold it steady, as this will make reefing easier.

REEFING:

In a heavy seaway it is easier and handier to reef with all the sail down and the boat running broad off, as she will go along steady. It is very difficult to reef a boat when in the trough of the sea.

REEFING:

When hauling out the foot of your sail to reef do not pull it out too hard, especially if it is liable to get wet from rain or sea, as the cloth will shrink and pull the leach out of shape. Be sure and pass a good lashing around the pendant close to the cringle and, if there is room, through it. Don’t haul out on your pendant until the tack is tied in.

REEF, SHAKING OUT A:

Set up on your lift. Cast off the points, beginning in the middle and working both ways. Then cast off the tack and clew-cringle lashing; then the pendant. Be sure all the points are loose before hoisting, as you are liable to tear the sail if one is fast.

REEFING BEFORE STARTING:

Before leaving harbor, if it looks breezy outside, tie in a reef, or reefs. When outside, and you can feel the weight of wind, you can then judge whether to carry more sail or not. If close-reefing, tie in number one and then number two over it. This will enable you to shake out one reef at a time.

RUNNING OFF:

When running off in heavy weather, if you have a jib keep it on her and haul it dead flat; then if she attempts to broach the wind hitting in the jib will drive her head off again. All boats going where winds are likely to be heavy should carry a small, strong headsail to use for this purpose.

RUNNING OFF IN A SEAWAY:

Keep your boom topped up, so that it is clear of the sea when she rolls to leeward. Don’t give the sail too much sheet, as you will find that she will steer better if the boom is at a smaller angle, and be less likely to be broken or to damage the rigging.

MAINSHEET:

Always keep a knot in the end of your mainsheet, or else make it fast. If the end gets away you will have trouble.

JIBING A MAINSAIL:

The only safe way to jibe in a breeze is to lower the peak and top up the boom, before getting the sail over. In ordinary airs you can jibe a boat if you pay attention to the helm, and get the sheet down flat. Let her come easy. If forced to jibe all standing with the sheet off, just as soon as the boom comes over put your helm, hard the other way, so as to throw the boat round, and get the wind back of the sail. This will break the force and save the knockdown, but is liable to break the boom. If fitted with backstays, look out for them.

WEARING A YAWL:

Slack off the mizzen sheet, if that sail is set; haul your jib a-weather; flatten the mainsheet; put the helm up and let her come round slowly, easing off the mainsail as she pays off.

STEERING A YAWL:

Going with a strong current or tide through a channel, when there is no wind, you can steer a yawl by taking hold of the mizzen boom and working that sail from side to side. When beating to windward in a light breeze, with a strong tide under the lee, hauling the mizzen to windward will help a yawl considerably, especially if she is at all slack-headed.

JIBING A YAWL:

Haul your mizzen if set fairly flat; slack the lee jib sheet and haul in the weather at the same time, until this sail is properly trimmed. Get your mainsheet aft gradually. Put the helm up slowly, and if the mizzen is set jibe that first, then the mainsail. The reason for trimming the jib and mizzen is this: If when the mainsail comes over she knocks down the other two sails will shoot her up in the wind, and give you a chance to shoot her out. If the mizzen it not set, light your jib sheets sufficiently to allow her to come up.

COMING TO AT A DOCK:

If you have to come to at a dock or pier on the windward side, go well to windward of it, lower your sail, and steer straight for it. Have an anchor and warp ready aft, and when close enough to reach let go your anchor and pay out, checking her way as you near the structure.

LYING AT A DOCK OR PIER:

It is always best to lie head or stern on to a dock if you intend to remain long or over night. Always run out an anchor to hold her off in case the wind shifts, or if for any reason you have to haul out. In making your head fast be sure to allow length enough, if in a tidal harbor, or you will be hung up when the water falls.

CLUBBING:

This is one way of getting down a narrow fairway when a swift current is going with you. By employing it you will be able to keep off the banks and to dodge anchored vessels. Send a man forward and let him heave in on the anchor until it breaks, then let him keep it trailing along the bottom, checking the vessel whenever needed, by paying out enough slack cable to make the hook bite. The skipper at the helm can then shear her with the rudder to port or starboard, as he wishes. The current moving faster than the boat will give her steerageway. Instead of an anchor you can use a heavy chain to drag along the bottom.

SAILING IN A CURRENT:

If bucking a strong tide or current a vessel will answer to the slightest touch of the helm, but if going with the stream she will steer slowly and badly. This must be looked out for in running narrow entrances between jetties and bars. Sometimes it is better to go out stern first, if the wind is blowing directly in, letting the vessel sail slowly before the wind and drop back faster with the tide.

SAILING AGAINST CURRENT:

In going against a strong current to windward you can force a vessel through, no matter how strong the tide is, if you can lay up close enough to get the wind on one bow and the tide on the other. The pressure of opposing forces will drive the vessel ahead. You will often see schooners get through the Long Island Sound Race in this way against a strong ebb, running over 5 knots.

TIDE UNDER THE LEE:

With the tide or current under the lee bow trim your after canvas dead flat, unless the sea is large. Let her eat out to windward on an easy helm, humoring to keep good way on all the time.

CURRENT, SAILING IN A CALM:

Going through a passage with a strong favorable current and no wind, lay your vessel broadside to the drift of the tide, then the speed of the stream will make a breeze in the sails and give your boat steerageway. Tack on approaching the shore, and stand over for the other, being careful to tack while still in the strength of the stream.

ANCHORED IN A CURRENT:

If at anchor in a current with the wind blowing against the tide, to keep the yacht from riding over her anchor, tie a bucket on a rope and drop it over the stern. This is a good way to keep a dingey away from a yacht’s stern when tide-rode.

HEAVING-TO:

To heave-to a vessel you must trim your sails so that the wind presses on one side of one sail and the other side of the other or others. In a boat like a sloop or yawl you can heave-to by drawing your jib a-weather, by slacking off the lee and hauling on the weather sheet. This causes the force of the wind in the jib to counteract the force in the after canvas. By slacking off the mainsheet until a balance of power is established between mainsail and jib a boat will lie almost in one place.

LYING-TO:

It is a very simple matter to lay a fore-and-aft vessel to. But in the first place you should find out in reasonably good weather what sail she will lie-to best under. Knowing this, snug her down to it before bringing her head to it. The best sail is that nearest amidships; but some boats require more after canvas and some more forward. No rule can be laid down, each vessel in this respect being peculiar to itself. When ready, watch your seas until after a big one has past you; get a smooth, then put your helm down easily and bring her to with a long sweep. The amount of sail she wants is enough to keep her just moving ahead, so that there will be steerageway and no more. Use plenty of oil while rounding to and afterwards, if the seas are cresting and breaking.

LEE SHORES:

Unless the weather is fine and you are well acquainted with them, keep off lee shores. A lee shore is a bad place to go aground, and it is a bad place to be caught on if a heavy blow comes.

WEATHER SHORE:

In strong winds and heavy weather it is always best to get in under the lee of a weather shore, and to keep it aboard as long as possible. You should figure to do this in mapping out runs from place to place. In running a weather shore keep working your boat up to it, especially in the bights between headlands. This will enable you to choose your own distance in rounding the outermost points and prevent being driven off shore.

CAUGHT ON A LEE SHORE:

If caught at anchor close on a lee shore where you are too close to wear with safety, you can get your anchor and cast your boat in the right tack by this method: Make sail; then when all is ready heave in until half scope; then get a bucket with a line bent to it, carry this line outside the rigging and the bucket as far forward as possible. Let one hand hold it ready to cast overboard on the side you want to fill on. Haul in your anchor quickly; when broken out, heave the bucket overboard, and give a slow, steady pull on the line from as far aft as convenient. This will hold her stern and the bow will swing off in the opposite direction. If you have no bucket, use a hunk of ballast, and slip it when her head is round.

MISS-STAYING IN A SEAWAY:

The cause of this is generally carelessness or haste. Sufficient way is not on the boat when the helm is put down, owing to her being too near the wind. Always give a boat a good full before putting the helm a-lee. You should watch the sea and make the move when there is a smooth flat spot between the waves. If there is any doubt of the boat’s getting round it is better to wear her.

MISS-STAYING IN A SEAWAY:

If your boat miss stays in a seaway and gets sternway on, don’t jam your helm hard over. Keep it amidship, and try and get your headsail a-back; then slowly put your helm over. It is a dangerous practice to jam a helm hard over when a boat is making a stern board in a seaway, as you are liable to damage the rudder or drive her counter under. If a centerboard boat, pull up the board, as this will help her to fall off.

CAUGHT ON A LEE SHORE:

If it is too windy and rough to get your anchor, prepare to slip. Get the bitter end on deck and bend a buoy to it. See all clear to cast over. Haul in as much as you dare to, and bend a small line to hawser or chain. Carry this line aft to the quarter outside the rigging. When ready, slip and haul in on the small line. As soon as she swings off cut the spring.

SAILING IN A SEAWAY:

When sailing in a seaway don’t trim a boat flat. Give her a liberal lift of sheet, and sail her with a good full. Never let her lose way, as your safety depends upon always having control of her motions. Keep a close watch on the water on your weather bow, and judge how to take a wave before it strikes you.

SAILING IN A SEAWAY:

In sailing a boat in a seaway and heavy breeze amateurs are apt to make two mistakes. One to carry too much sail, the other, too little. In the first place, the boat cannot be kept full; in the second, she hasn’t sufficient drive to keep her moving. Carry as much sail as she will keep full and not bury under.

MIZZEN ON A YAWL:

It is a mooted question among yawlsmen as to whether the mizzen is of use or not when going dead before the wind. If you can wing it--that is, get the boom on the opposite side to that of the mainboom--it is, as it makes a boat steer steadier. But if it is off on the same side as the mainsail it is doubtful if it helps the speed. I have tried the experiment repeatedly and cannot find that it makes any difference in a strong breeze; but it does help in light airs. In a strong wind the boat will do better with the mizzen stowed, is my opinion.

MIZZEN ON A YAWL:

The handling of this sail seems to be a problem that worries many young skippers. No fixed rule can be laid down, it depending largely on the shape of the boat, the position and size of the sails. Generally speaking, with the wind forward or on the beam, the mizzen should be sheeted flatter than the mainsail. How flat, depends upon the effect it has on the steering. If the boat gripes, ease it off; if she is slack-headed, haul it flatter. In beating through a narrow channel work it as you do the jib, but exactly opposite; that is, with the helm a-lee haul in flat; as she pays off ease the sheet. In this way you will help the rudder to bring the boat round. The mizzen sheet should be belayed where the helmsman can readily get at it, so that by working the sheet in combination with the tiller he can control his vessel.

WORKING TO WINDWARD:

In working to windward in open water for a long distance stand on the tack which looks up nearest to your destination. On this tack the wind is as foul as it is possible for it to be, and cannot shift in either direction without favoring you. Attention should be paid to the probable direction of the shift, and a course shaped that will bring you into such a position as will lift your vessel up and not throw her to leeward of her course. For instance, if the wind is East, stand on the tack towards the Southeast, because it is probable that the wind will move round with the sun across your bow and be constantly freeing you until you can stand your course on the other tack. This is largely a study of local conditions, and can be mastered only by constant observation of the tendencies of the wind at certain seasons of the year.

WORKING TO WINDWARD:

If the wind is offshore, blowing at an angle, so that you can make a long and short leg, keep close under the weather shore, as the wind will draw more favorable there than further out. For instance, if the shore lies East and West and the wind be Southwest, under the weather shore it will haul more to the South, sometimes as much as a point, thus enabling you to lengthen your long leg. Besides, you have the advantage of smoother water.

WORKING TO WINDWARD CRUISING:

If the wind is so foul as to be dead ahead it is waste of labor to try to beat a small boat a long distance to windward. With the best of handling you cannot make more than three miles an hour, and a very good day’s work is twenty miles. Probably the next day the wind will come favorable, and you can make that twenty miles in four or five hours. If you are pressed for time and have to do it, take the first of the fair tide.

LIGHT SAILS, SHEETING:

Never sheet light balloon or running sails; let them sheet themselves. If you trim these sails the way you do working canvas you will destroy much of their power. To get the sail right, slack off the sheet until the luff trembles, then belay. If you sheet them, the whole after angle becomes a back sail. The object is to get them to pull ahead, not sideways. The minute a balloon sail has to be sheeted aft to make it draw take it in and set your working canvas. You will do better with it.

ROUNDING A MARK:

Coming down to round a mark with running sails set, when within fair working distance hoist and sheet your working headsails, if the ballooner is not set on the jib-stay. Get your main sheet aft and runners ready; then when close to the mark take in your spinnakers and ballooner. In this way you are ready at once to haul on the wind. If you take in your light sails first you will have them littering up the deck and in the way, delaying getting the working sails set and sheeted, and consequently the boat instead of being able to make a sharp turn will drag off to leeward.

ROUNDING A MARK:

If rounding a mark to leeward, always do so before you reach it. In order to do this, if possible, keep away from it some distance, and put your helm down gradually; then you will not kill the boat’s way and will give your crew time to get the sheets flattened down. If you come down and take the mark close aboard and then turn it, you will have to put your helm hard down, killing the boat’s way and causing her to sag off to leeward.

ROUNDING A MARK:

If another boat is abreast of or overlapping, and will be between you and the mark, try and drop back before reaching the turning stake, so as to let her get ahead. You will lose less by doing so than you will by rounding close under her lee, as once round you can probably free your wind and get clear of her wake by a sharp luff. You have also a chance to cut in if her crew make a fumble of their sheet work; but if you are under her you will have no chance at all.

ROUNDING, A WINDWARD MARK:

Before rounding a windward mark, if the next leg is a run, make up your mind which side you are going to carry your spinnaker on. Get the pole along on that side and the after guy passed and hooked on. Then before getting to the mark hoist the spinnaker clean up and hook in the clew. Just as soon as you are round and squared off run the pole out and square it, and break the sail. A good crew should get a sail set in this way in fifteen seconds.

TRIMMING:

A vessel to sail her best wants to be kept on a level water line; the minute she shoves her head up or down it kills her speed. This is true of sail, power or any kind of craft. Therefore, in racing, see that your crew keep her trimmed to a level by constantly moving and balancing their weights. If a man goes out on the bowsprit move a man aft to counterbalance his weight. Never let a bunch of men get forward, as is often done when taking in or setting light sails. It is better to do this work slower and keep the boat properly trimmed.

BALLOON-JIB SHEET, TO SHIFT A: