Chapter 3

Camp on Zemu river -- Scenery -- Falling rocks -- Tukcham mountain -- Height of glaciers -- Botany -- Gigantic rhubarb -- Insects -- Storm -- Temperature of rivers -- Behaviour of Lachen Phipun -- Hostile conduct of Bhoteeas -- View from mountains above camp -- Descend to Zemu Samdong -- Vegetation -- Letters from Dorjiling -- Arrival of Singtam Soubah -- Presents from Rajah -- Parties collecting arum-roots -- Insects -- Ascend Lachen river -- Thakya-zong -- Tallum Samdong village -- Cottages -- Mountains -- Plants -- Entomology -- Weather -- Halo -- Diseases -- Conduct of Singtam Soubah -- His character and illness -- Agrees to take me to Kongra Lama -- Tungu -- Appearance of country -- Houses -- Poisoning by aram-roots -- Yaks and calves -- Tibet ponies -- Journey to Kongra Lama -- Tibetan tents -- Butter, curds, and churns -- Hospitality -- Kinchinjhow and Chomiomo -- Magnificent scenery -- Reach Kongra Lama pass.