Highways and Byways in the Border Illustrated
CHAPTER XVIII BEWCASTLE, LIDDEL MOAT, NETHERBY, KIRK ANDREWS, GILNOCKIE,
LANGHOLM
|A pilgrimage{410} to Bewcastle cannot be recommended to persons animated by curiosity alone; or even by a passion for the beauties of nature.
From childhood the writer had a desire to behold Bewcastle, because it was the Captain of Bewcastle who, in the ballad of _Jamie Telfer_, in _The Border Minstrelsy_, made such an unlucky raid on the cows of a farmer in Ettrickdale. The very word Bewcastle seemed to re-echo {411}the trumpets of the Wardens' Raids and the battles long ago.
But when you actually find yourself, after a long walk or drive up a succession of long green ascents, in the broad bleak cup of the hills; when you see the grassy heights, with traces of ancient earthworks that surround the blind grey oblong of the ruined castle; the little old church, all modern within, and the {412}tiny hamlet that nestles by the shrunken and prosaic burn; then, unless you be an antiquary and a historian, you feel as if you had come very far to see very little.
But if a secular antiquary and a ballad lover, you fill the landscape with galloping reivers, you restore the royal flag of England to the tower, and your mind is full of the rough riding life of Mus-graves and Grahams, Scotts, Elliots and Armstrongs. If, on the other hand, your tastes are ecclesiastical, and you are an amateur of Runic writing, you can pass hours with the tall headless Runic cross beside the church, a work of art dating from the middle of the seventh century of our era, according to the prevalent opinion.
Bewcastle is at least ten miles from the nearest railway at Penton; twelve from Brampton; not easily approached by a fell path from Gilsland; and is most easily if least romantically reached by motor car from Carlisle, a drive of nearly twenty {413}miles. The Elliots and Scotts of the reiving days, got at Bewcastle by riding down Liddel water, crossing it at the Kershope burn ford, and then robbing all and sundry through some four miles. The castle they could not take in a casual expedition.
The oldest monument in the place, except the earthworks said to be Roman, is the Cross, which much resembles the more famous Cross of Ruthwell, near Dumfries, with the runes from the Song of the Rood. More fortunate than the Ruthwell relic of early Anglican Christianity, that of Bewcastle was never broken up by the bigots of the Covenant as "a monument of idolatry." The head, however, was removed by Belted Will of Naworth, and sent to Camden the historian, in the reign of James VI and I. The west face is the most interesting. The top panel contains a figure of St. John the Baptist; our Lord is represented in the central panel, inscribed in runes, _Gessus Kristins_. The figure is noble and broad in treatment; done in the latest gloaming of classical art. Beneath is seated a layman, in garb of peace, with his falcon. The runic inscription on the central panel is black, painted black, it seems, by a recent rector, the Rev. Mr. Maughan, who laboured long at deciphering the characters. Professor Stephens read them:
This victory-column
Thin set up
Hwaetred Woth
gar Olfwolthu
after Alcfrith
Once King
and son of Oswi
Pray for the high
sin of his soul.
Runes are difficult. Mr. Stephens once read a Greek epitaph in elegiac verse, for a Syrian boy, at Brough, as a Runic lament, in old English, for a martyred Christian lady. I have little confidence in Hwaetred, Olfwolthu, and Wothgar: who were they; the artists employed in making the Cross? _Eac Oswiung_, "and son of Oswin," "the king," is said to be plain enough, and to indicate Alchfrith, son of Oswin, who after a stormy youth accepted, as against the Celtic clerics, the positions of St. Wilfred.
The decorative work, knot work, vine scrolls, birds and little animals among the grapes, is of Byzantine and {415}Northern Italian origin: like the decoration of the Ruthwell Cross.
Bewcastle must, it seems, have been a more important and populous place when this monument was erected, than even when the Royal castle was a centre of resistance to the Riddesdale clans in Queen Elizabeth's day.
Returning from Bewcastle by Penton, we strike the Riddel near Penton Linn, not distant from the vanished peel of that Judas, Hector Armstrong of Harelaw, who betrayed the Earl of Northumberland into the hands of the Regent Murray in 1569. A little way below, near the junction of Riddel and Esk, on a commanding height that overhangs railway and river, is Riddel Moat. Locally this moat is called "the Roman Camp," but to the average amateur there is certainly nothing Roman about it. No doubt the Romans may have had an outpost here; the position is too strong not to have been held by them, especially as they had a station barely a couple of miles away, at Netherby. But the prominent remains of fortifications now to be seen here manifestly date from long after Roman days. It is, I believe, the site of the earliest Riddel Castle, erected by Ranulph de Soulis before either the Riddel Castle at Castleton, or Hermitage, was built. This Riddel Castle was razed to the ground, wiped out of existence, by the Scottish army under David Bruce, which invaded England in 1346 and was so totally routed at Neville's Cross a few weeks later. On his march southward, says Redpath, Bruce "took the fortress of Riddel and put the garrison to the sword,... spreading terror and desolation all round him in his progress through Cumberland." Liddel Moat is well worthy of a visit, but it is somewhat out of the beaten track and can only be reached by walking a little distance, preferably from the station at Biddings Junction. The position, defended on the landward side by an immensely deep moat, and on the other dropping almost sheer into the river--or rather, now, on to the intervening railway line--is a magnificent one, and the view obtained from the {416}highest point is very fine,--at one's feet, just beyond the two rivers, "Cannobie lea";
"There was mounting 'mong Graemes of the Netherby clan,
Forsters, Fenwicks, and Musgraves, they rode and they ran,
There was racing and chasing on Cannobie lea,
But the lost bride of Netherby ne'er did they see."
A short way farther down the Esk is Netherby, headquarters of that clan whose peel towers once dotted this part of Cumberland and all the Debateable Land, and who in the early seventeenth century were so hardly used by James VI and I. They were no better, I suppose, than the others of that day, but they were no worse, and the story of their banishment is not very pleasant reading. Lord Scrope believed that the Grahams were "privy" to Buccleuch's rescue of Kinmont Willie, and certainly the Grahams did not love Lord Scrope, who, I suppose, was not likely to present the clan in a very favourable light to Queen Elizabeth. Their reputation, in any case, became increasingly black, and James I, when he came to the throne, issued a proclamation against them. In fact, the dog was given an exceedingly bad name--not of course wholly without cause--and hung; or, rather, many of their houses were harried, their women and children turned out to fend for themselves in the wet and cold, and their men shipped off to banishment in Ireland and in Holland. Certainly, in driblets they made their way back to their own country again, after a time--those who survived, that is,--but their nests had been harried, their broods scattered down the wind, and, as a clan, their old status was never regained.
As has already been told, Netherby was the site of a Roman station, and it is rich in evidences of the old Legions--coins, altars, and what not. The original peel at Netherby--which still forms part of the present mansion--I take to have been such another as the Graham tower of Kirk Andrews, its near neighbour, which stands--still inhabited--just across the Esk, perched on a rising ground overhanging the river. {417}From a sporting point of view at least, the Esk here is a beautiful stream, famous for its salmon, which are plentiful and often of great size.
In his Notes to "Redgauntlet," Sir Walter Scott mentions that "shortly after the close of the American war, Sir James Graham of Netherby constructed a dam-dike, or cauld, across the Esk, at a place where it flowed through his estate, though it has its origin, and the principal part of its course, in Scotland. The new barrier at Netherby was considered as an encroachment calculated to prevent the salmon from ascending into Scotland; and the right of erecting it being an international question of law betwixt the sister kingdoms, there was no court in either competent to its decision. In this dilemma, the Scots people assembled in numbers by signal of rocket-lights, and, rudely armed with fowling-pieces, fish spears and such rustic weapons, marched to the banks of the river for {418}the purpose of pulling down the dam dike objected to. Sir James Graham armed many of his own people to protect his property, and had some military from Carlisle for the same purpose. A renewal of the Border wars had nearly taken place in the eighteenth century, when prudence and moderation on both sides saved much tumult, and perhaps some bloodshed. The English proprietor consented that a breach should be made in his dam-dike sufficient for the passage of the fish, and thus removed the Scottish grievance. I believe the river has since that time taken the matter into its own disposal, and entirely swept away the dam-dike in question." I do not think there is now any trace of the obstruction which so roused the good people of Langholm and their supporters The question, of course, was not a new one. As early as the middle of the fifteenth century, Cumberland folks and Scots were at loggerheads over a "fish-garth" constructed by the former, which the Scots maintained prevented salmon from ascending to the upper waters. The dispute raged for something like a hundred years.
Leaving Kirk Andrews, we get at once onto the old London and Edinburgh coach road close to Scot's Dike, and in the course of two or three miles reach the village of Canonbie, where at a little distance from the bridge over Esk stands the comfortable old coaching inn, the Cross Keys, now favoured of anglers. Thence all the way to Langholm the road runs by the river-bank through very delightful scenery, said, in old days, indeed, to be the most beautiful of all between London and Edinburgh. In the twelfth century a Priory stood at Canonbie, and as late as 1576 there was still a resident Prior, but the building itself I think was wrecked by the English in 1542, after the battle of Solway Moss. A few of its stones are still to the fore, but I fear the ruin was used as a quarry during the building of Canonbie Bridge.
That also is a fate that waited on another famous building not far from Canonbie--Gilnockie Castle, the residence of the {419}notorious Johnny Armstrong. Hollows Tower, a few hundred yards above the village of Hollows, is often confounded with Gilnockie, probably for the reason that no stone of the latter has been left standing on another, and that Hollows Tower is a conspicuous object in the foreground here.
Perhaps, too, Sir Walter Scott was partly responsible for the belief prevalent in many quarters that the Hollows is Gilnockie. In "Minstrelsy of the Scottish Border," he says: "His [Johny Armstrong's] {420}place of residence (now a roofless tower) was at the Hollows, a few miles from Langholm, where its rains still serve to adorn a scene which, in natural beauty, has few equals in Scotland."
I am not certain, but I do not think that Sir Walter ever visited Gilnockie. If he had done so, it could scarcely have escaped his knowledge that another castle once stood less than half a {421}mile from Hollows Tower, and that towards the end of the eighteenth century the stones from that castle were utilised in the building of Gilnockie Bridge. That they were so used is well authenticated; and I should think it is probable that the ruin was found to be a convenient quarry also when houses in the neighbouring village of Hollows were being built.
Hollows lower is a very good example of the old Border Keep, but it is small, much too small to have given anything like sufficient accommodation for Johny Armstrong's "tail," which must necessarily have been of considerable strength. The dining hall, for instance, measures roughly only a little over twenty-two feet by thirteen, and the total outside length of the tower is less than thirty-five feet. I should imagine it to be certain that Johny never lived here; indeed. I should be inclined to doubt if this particular Hollows Tower was even built during Johny Armstrong's life-time. Neither is the position a very strong one,--though on that point it is perhaps not easy to judge, because, in old days no doubt (as in the case of Hermitage Castle,) impassable swamps probably helped to protect it from assault on one or more sides.
The place where Gilnockie stood is without any doubt a little lower down the Esk than Hollows Tower, at a point where the river makes a serpentine bend and contracts into a narrow, rocky gorge, impossible to ford. Here, at the Carlisle end of Gilnockie Bridge, on the high tongue of rocky land that projects into the stream, are faint but unmistakeable outlines of a large building, with outworks. The position is magnificent--impregnable, in fact, to any force of olden days unprovided with artillery. On three sides the rocky banks drop nearly sheer to the water, and across the root of the tongue are indications of a protecting fosse. It is impossible to imagine a site more perfect for a freebooter's stronghold. To have neglected it, in favour of such a position as that occupied by the Hollows Tower, would have been on the reiver's part to throw away the most obvious of the gifts of Providence. {422}Local tradition has it that Johny had a drawbridge by which, at will, he could cross the river.
Certainly there is a projecting nose of rock just at the narrowest part of the stream, immediately above the present stone bridge, but one would be inclined to doubt if the engineering skill of Scotland in the {423}sixteenth century was equal to the task of constructing a serviceable drawbridge capable of spanning a width so great.
There, is a curious stone that projects _inwards_ from high up in Hollows Tower, the original purpose of which forms to the amateur lover of ancient buildings a quite insolvable puzzle. The stone measures, roughly, from the wall to its tip about three feet in length, and its diameter is perhaps ten or twelve inches. Towards the end farthest from the wall it has a well-marked groove on the upper part and sides, as if heavy weights had frequently been suspended from it by ropes or chains. Its position is on the light of a narrow door that opens two or three feet above the floor-level of the room into which the stone projects, and the stone itself must have been close to the ceiling of the chamber. What was its use? An intelligent but youthful guide, when the writer was at Hollows, suggested with ghoulish delight that it was "a hangin'-stane." But that, surely, would have been wilful waste on the part of the Armstrongs, so long as trees were available. Nor is it likely that they got rid of prisoners in this way with a regularity sufficient to account for the well worn groove in the stone. It does, however, recall Sir Thomas Dick Lauder's feelings, when "at the top of the south-western angle of the Tower [of Neidpath], a large mass of the masonry had fallen, and laid open a chamber roofed with a Gothic arch of stone, from the centre of which swung, vibrating with every heavy gust of wind, an enormous iron ring. To what strange and wild horrors did this not awaken the fancy?"
From a little beyond Hollows Tower, all the way to Langholm you catch through the trees glimpses of hurrying, foamfleckcd streams that speak most eloquently of "sea-trout, rushing at the fly." It has never been the writer's fortune to cast a line in this water, but if looks go for anything the sport must be excellent.
It is impossible to imagine scenery more pleasing than the woody banks that overhang the river as Langholm is {424}approached; and the position of the town itself, nestling amongst beautiful hills, is singularly inviting. Langholm occupies the site of a famous old battle, that of Arkenholm, where in 1454 the power of the Douglas's was finally broken.
In and about the town there is much to interest those whose tastes lean towards archaeology; the whole countryside, indeed, is sprinkled with towers and the remains of towers. In the burgh itself for example, there is what appears to be the remains of an old peel, now forming part of the wing of a hotel; just above the upper bridge are the ruins--the sorely battered ruins--of Langholm Castle, once an Armstrong stronghold; and most beautifully situated on Wauchope Water, just outside the town, is Wauchope Castle, long ago the seat of the Lindsays. Little now is left of the building, practically nothing, indeed, but two small portions of the outer wall on the rocks {425}immediately overhanging the picturesque water of Wauchope. The position must in the days of its pride have been immensely strong, and the scene now is very beautiful.
In close proximity to the castle is an old graveyard, with remains--at least the foundations--of a pre-Reformation church and a few interesting old stones, two, at least, apparently very ancient, if one may judge from the style of sword cut on them. Not far from this are traces of the old Roman Road, and near at hand a stone bridge, also believed to be Roman, once crossed the stream. But it is said--with what truth I know not--to have been destroyed long ago by a Minister, whose care of his flock was such that, to prevent the lads of Langholm strolling that way of an evening, disturbing the peace of mind and pious meditations of his female domestics, he demolished it.
As in the case of Selkirk, and of Hawick, the great festival of the year at Langholm is on the occasion of the Fair and Common Riding. In the Proclamation of the Fair, after a statement of the penalties to be imposed on disturbers of the festival, the curious words occur: "They shall sit down on their bare knees and pray seven times for the King, and thrice for the Muckle Laird o' Ralton." The Laird of Ralton was an illegitimate son of Charles II, but what he had to do with Eskdale, or what is the origin of the words, I have been quite unable to learn.
To go, even superficially, into the history of Langholm and of the interesting and beautiful country surrounding it, would occupy much space, and neither time nor space is available.
Here, amongst the hills and the many waters, we must leave the Border. It is a country whose mountains are seldom grand or awe-inspiring, as in some parts of the Scottish Highlands they may be; its streams do not flow with the rich majesty of Thames, nor with the mighty volume of Tay; and there are, doubtless, rivers possessed of wilder scenery. But to the true Borderer, however long absent he be, into what part {426}soever of the world he may have been driven by the Fates, there are no hills like the Border hills--they are indeed to him "the Delectable Mountains"; there are no waters so loved, none that sing to him so sweetly as Tweed and all the streams of his own land. "If I did not see the heather at least once a year, I think I should die," said Scott. To a greater or less extent it is so with all of us. One of her most loving sons (he who should have guided the course of this volume, and who, had he lived, would have made of it something worthy of the Border), once said, on his return from a visit to famed Killarney: "The beauty of the Irish Lakes is rather that of the Professional Beauty. When one comes back to the Border, there one finds the same beauty one used to see in the face of one's mother, or of one's old nurse." And: "I am never so happy as when I cross the Tweed at Berwick from the South," he writes in an Introduction to Mr. Charles Murray's "Plamewith." It was not only his own, but, I think, every Borderer's sentiments that he voiced when he wrote:
"Brief are man's days at best; perchance
I waste my own, who have not seen
The castled palaces of France
Shine on the Loire in summer green.
"And clear and fleet Eurotas still,
You tell me, laves his reedy shore,
And flows beneath his fabled hill
Where Dian drave the chase of yore.
"And 'like a horse unbroken' yet
The yellow" stream with rush and foam,
'Neath tower, and bridge, and parapet,
Girdles his ancient mistress, Rome!
"I may not see them, but I doubt
If seen I'd find them half so fair
As ripples of the rising trout
That feed beneath the elms of Yair.
"Unseen, Eurotas, southward steal,
Unknown, Alpheus, westward glide,
You never heard the ringing reel,
The music of the water side!
"Though Gods have walked your woods among,
Though nymphs have fled your banks along;
You speak not that familiar tongue
Tweed murmurs like my cradle song.
"My cradle song,--nor other hymn
I'd choose, nor gentler requiem dear
Than Tweed's, that through death's twilight dim,
Mourned in the latest Minstrel's ear!"
His love of the Border hills, "the great, round-backed, kindly, solemn hills of Tweed, Yarrow, and Ettrick," his devotion to the streams beside whose banks the summers of his boyhood were spent, never lessened with the passing years. In prose and in verse continually it broke out. Tweed's song is the same that she has ever sung; but now--
"He who so loved her lies asleep,
He hears no more her melody."
INDEX
A
Abbey St. Bathans, 028 Abbot of Inchcolm, 093 Abbotsford, 178, 227, 230, 245, 261, 384 Agricola, 212 Aidan, Bishop, 216 Ale, 033, 126, 169, 172, 280 Alemuir, 176, 286 Alexander II., 004, 091, 255 III., 004, 091, 255, 337 Allanbank,008 Allanton, 008 Allan Water, 107, 197 Allen Water, 235 Allevard, 021 Altrive, 305 Ancrum, 033, 126, 129, 169 Moor, 102, 169 Anderson, Alexander, 295 Angus, Earl of, 102, 169, 229 Annan, 375 "Antiquary, The" 25, 084 Argyll, 053 Arkenholm, 424 Armstrong, Johnny, 197, 418 Armstrong of Harelaw, Hector, 413 Armstrongs, 144, 197, 388, 401, 406 Arran, Earl of, 102, 170 Artburet, 351, 404 Arthur's Oven, 347 Arundel, Earl of, 092 Ashiesteel, 237, 322 Ashkiik, 174 Auld Babby Metlan, 213 Auld Maitland, 213 Auld Ringan Oliver, 136 Auld Wat of Harden, 278 Ayala, 052
B
Badlieu, 371 Bairds, 346 Baillie, Lady Grisell, 043 Bale-fires, 023 Ballad of Otterburne, 153 Ballantyne, James, 078 Balliol, 006 Edward, 092 Barmoor, 051 Barnhill's Bed, 181 Barns, 345 Battle Stone, 162 Bawtie's Grave, 020 Beaton, Cardinal, 170, 171 Beauté, Sieur de la, 020 Bedrule, 182 Bellenden, 286 Felted Will Howard, 409, 413 Bemersyde, 209 Berwick, 003, 025, 048, 098, 113, 269 Berwickshire Naturalists' Club, Bewcastle, 178, 410 Cross, 413 Bield, The, 359 Biggar, 353 Moss, 354 Water, 353 Billie, 013 Billy Castle, 017 Binram's Corse, 298 Bird-Oswald, 409 Bishop Flambard, 047 Boghall Castle, 353 Bogle Burn, 217 Bohun, Humphrey de, 004 Boldside, 233, 245, 150, 069, 165 Bonny Bertha, 371 Borland, Rev. Dr., 307 Borthwick Water, 190, 280 Castle, 106 Boston of Ettrick, 287 Bothan, 028 Bothwell (Hepburn), Earl of, 052, 085, 106, 215 (Stewart), Earl of, 135, 385 Brig, 137 Bowden Moor, 229 "Bowed Davie," 343 Bowerhope, 298 Bowhill, 231, 273, 318 Bow mont, 048 Valley, 149 Box-beds, 303 Blackadder, 008, 032, 039 Blackcastle Rings, 039 Black Dwarf, 343 Black Hill of Earlstoun, 144 Blackhouse Heights, 346 Tower, 297 Black Law, 144, 346 Black, William, 359, 374 Blair, Rev. Thos., 061 Blanerne, 013 Blind Harry, 354 Bloody Laws, 088 Braidley Burn, 107 Brampton, 409 Branksome, 002, 174, 179, 192 Hall, 194 Branxton, 051 Braxfield, Lord, 355 Breamish, 048 Bremenium, 088, 142, 164, 166 Brewster, Sir David, 188 "Bride of Lammermuir," 346 Bridgelands, 260 Bridgend, 227 Broadlaw, 144, 352 Broadmeadows, 038 Broomhouse, 020 Brougham, Lord, 061 Broughton, 355 Brown, Dr. John, 354 Brownies, 031 "Brownie of Bodesbeck," 291, 369 Bruce, David, 068, 415 Robert the, 067, 092, 208, 347, 375 Buccleuch, 002, 195, 286 Duke of, 196, 208, 305, 316, 385 Hunt, 222 Lairds of, 134, 179, 194, 229, 392, 394, 395 Buchan, Earl of, 208 Buchanan, George, 067, 106, 112 Bunkle, 013, 015 Burghley, 135 Buried Treasure, 056, 088 Burke and Hare, 250 "Burke, Sir Walter!" 090 Burns, Robert, 118, 123 Byrecleuch Ridge, 030
C
Caddonfoot, 222, 322 Cademuir, 347 Caerlanrig, 197 Caledon, 352 Camps, 128 Camptown, 141 Cannobie Lea, 416 Canonbie, 418 Capel Fell, 287 "Capon Tree," 125 Cappercleucb, 300 Cardrona, 340 Carey, 135 Cargill, Rev. Donald, 137, 368 Carham, 003 Burn, 048 Carlin's Tooth, 143, 152 Carlisle, 077, 115, 117, 150, 152, 392, 408 Castle, 144, 392 Carmichael, Sir John, 144 Carter Bar, 141, 148 Carterfell, 129, 136, 143, 166 Carterhaugh, 273 Castlebill, 348 Castleton, 387 Catcleuch Reservoir, 141 Shin, 141, 166 Catrail, 002, 041, 231, 379 Cauldcleuch Head, 107, 144 Cauldshiels Loch, 233 Cavers, 072, 184 Caves, 126, 134 Cecil, Sir W., 037, 134 Cessford, 086 Cockburn Law, 026 Thomas, 022 of Henderland, 198, 299 Cockburns, 020 Coldstream, 056 Guards, 050 Collingwood Bruce, Dr., 165 Collingwood, Sir Cuthbert, 147 Colting woods, 145 Colmslie, 235 Commonsiae Hill, 002 Cope, Sir John, 005, 035, 077 Corbridge, 005 Coultercleuch, 280 Cout o' Keilder, 383 Covenanters, 007, 035, 137, 293, 359, 365, 370 Cowdenknowes, 289 Ciudad Rodrigo, 266 Chambers, Dr. Robert 104, 302 Dr. William, 338 Channelkirk, 217 Chapel Knowe, 165 Charles I., 077 Chesters (Berwickshire), 042 (Roxburghshire), 168 Cheviot, 144 Cheviots, 001, 088, 142, 151, 212 Chillingham, 050 Chimside, 007, 015 Chronicle of Lanercost, 004 Churchill, 006 Clandestine Weddings, 060, 402 Clarty Hole, 231 Claverhouse, 359, 365, 369 Clear burn Loch, 286 Cleikum Inn, 339 Clerk of Eldin, John, 353 Clints Dod, 030 Clintwood, 387 Clovenfords, 322 Clyde, 353 Crab, 005 Craigmillar, 023, 113 Crailing, 087, 126 Cranshaws, 030 Crawford, 052 Cromwell, 022, 056, 316, 338, 343, 3S3, 371, 387 Crook-backed Richard, 005 Crook Inn., 357 Crooked Loch, 286 Cumberland, 025 Curie, Mr., 212
D
Dacre, 053, 074, 098, 130 Dalkeith, 025, 152, 257 Dandie Dinmont, 377, 381 D'Arcy, Sir Anthony, 020 Darnick, 227 Tower, 227 Darnley, 085, 213, 330, 347, 365 D'Aussi, 052 David I., 066, 073, 081, 084, 091 David, Earl, 255 Dawstane Rig, 378 Dawyck, 347, 348 Woods, 351 Debateable Land, 403 De Beaugué, M., 131 De Bolbec, Walter, 383 "Degenerate Douglas," 341 De Grey, Sir Thomas, 048 Deil o' Dawyck, 349 De la Mothe Rouge, 133 Deloraine, 280 William of, 174, 281 Denham Tracts, 066 Denholm, 119, 179 De Soulis, 382, 387, 4x5 D'Espec, Walter, 066 D'Essé, Sieur, 129, 132 Deuchar Bridge, 309 Devil's Beef Tub, 375 Dick Lauder, Sir Thomas, 008, 017, 035, 059, 172, 233, 241, 259, 327, 336, 358, 423 Dick's Tree, 399 Differences with Prisoners, 266 Dinlabyre, 387 Dodhead, 178, 280 Dog Knowe, 115 Dogs in Church, 308 Dollar Law, 144, 346 Donald's Cleuch, 368 "Doo Tairts and Herrin' Pies," 83 Douglas, Archibald, 072 Douglas Burn, 072, 297 Douglas, Earl, 072, 149, 153 of Kelhead, Sir John, 355 Rev. Dr., 231 Sir George, 071 Sir George, 170 Sir James, 080, 092, 125, 128, 347, 375 Tragedy, 297 Douglas's Wounded, 165 Douglases, 072, 145 Dowie Dens of Yarrow, 072, 311 Drochil Castle, 347 Drumclogj 137 Drum lan rig, 118 Drummelzier, 348, 350 Dryburgh Abbey, 206, 220 Drygrange, 212, 222 Dry hope Tower, 305 Dunbar, 056, 101, 113, 150, 152 Castle, 020, 086 Earl of, 030 Dumbarton Castle, 382 Dunion, 144, 176 Dunkeld, 137 Duns, 015, 026, 044 Law, 046 Scotus, 044 Durham, 153 Bishop of, 158, 160 Cathedral, 216 Dussac, 133 Dye Water, 029
E
Earlsihe Moor, 107 Earlstoun, 016, 217 Eden (Carlisle), 393 Water, 008, 033, 057, 064 Edie Ochiltree, 084 Edgar, 035 Burn, 035 Edgerston, 141, 144 Edinburgh, 056, 152, 159, 198, 212, 261, 292 299, 333, 349 Edington, 008 Edinshall, 008, 027 Ednam, 008 Edrington Castle, 007 Edrom, 008, 015 Edward I., 056, 058, 069, 208, 214, 255, 379 409 II., 005, 048, 069, 208, 255 III., 005, 068, 069, 092 VI., 169. 316 Eildon Hills, 142, 144, 212, 221, 224, 231, 245 Eildon Tree, 217 Eital Castle, 050 Elba, 027 Elcho, Lord, 118 Elibank, 327 Eliott of Stobs, Sir Gilbert, 119 Elizabeth, Queen, 398, 416 Elliot of Cleuchhead, Dr., 384 Jean, 181 Elliots, 145 Ellison, Mr., 163 Ellwand, 235 Elsdon Church, 167 Emperor Alexander Severus, 165 Ernckstane, 375 Errol, 052 Erskine, Lord, 402 Esk, 407, 416 Ettrick, 002, 176, 231, 245, 252, 263, 271, 288 Bank, 249 Ettrickbridgend, 278 Ettrick Hall, 287, 290 Kirk, 287 Pen, 287 Shepherd, 121, 283, 278, 288 Evelaw Tower, 035 Evers, Lord (Sir Ralph), 100, 170, 171, 227 Eye Water, 088
F
"Fair Maiden Lilliard," 172 Fairies, belief in, 056, 181 Fairnilee, 271, 319 Fairy Dene, 235 Falaise, Treaty of, 004 Falkirk, Battle of, 255 Falla Moss, 371 False alarm, 025 Fast Castle, 086 Father Ellis, 126 Fat Ups Castle, 180 Faungrist Burn, 039 Fenwick, Sir Roger, 129 Fenwicke, Colonel, 022 Ferguson, Adam, 343 Fernihirst, 128, 130, 134, 137 Mill, 136 Flemings, 353 Fluimen, 049, 059, 255 Flodden Edge, 048, 050 Fogo, 033 Ford Castle, 049 Forest of Ettrick, 255 Jedworth, 129, 131 Forster, Sir John, 144 Foulshiels, 039, 314 Floors Castle, 071 Flower of Yarrow, 305 Flowers of the Forest, 181, 319 Franck, Richard, 007 Fraser, Sir Simon, 341, 348 Frasers of Fruid and Oliver, 340 French Invasion, 024 Prisoners in Selkirk, 258 Froissart, 115, 149, 157 Fruid, 357
G
Gala, 094, 237, 241 Gala Rig, 272 Galashiels, 094, 224, 233, 237, 248 "Galashiels Herons," 084 Galashiels Town's Arms, 240 Gamelshiel, 030 Gameshope Burn, 357, 370 Glen, 363, 370 Loch, 369, 370 Gamescleuch, 287 Garter, Countess of Salisbury's, 069 Gemmels, Andrew, 084 Giant's Stone, 371 Gibb's Cross, 035 Gilnockie, 197, 418 Bridge, 421 Gjlsland, 409 Girthgate, 236 Godscroft, 158 Goldielands, 191 Gordon Arms, 305 Glendearg, 235 Glengaber, 001 Glenkinnon Burn, 324 Glenrath Burn, 346 Graham, Sir James. 417 Grahams, 405, 416 Greatmoor Hill, 107 Greenlaw, 041 Gretna Green, 060, 402 Grey Friars, 141 Grey Mare's Tail, 303 Guizot, M., 059 "Guy Mannering," 380
H
Hahhie Ker's Cave, 126 Haggiehaugh, 078 Haig of Bemersyde, 209 Haining, 255, 259, 265 Halidon Hill, 005, 053 Hall, Hobbie, 087 Henry, 087, 137 Halliburton, Wm,, 067 Hailyards, 343 Hangingshaw, 038, 313 Happrew, 348 Harden, 192 Harecleuch Hill, 032 Hare head, 030 Harelaw, 035 Harewood, 317 Hartlaw, 035 Hartshorn Pyke, 143 Hassendean, 178 Hawick, 094, 107, 185, 381 "Minister's Alan," 117 Mote, 191 Hawkshead Burn, 371 Castle, 371 Hay of Yester, 341 of Talla, 085 Hearthstane Burn, 357 Hellmuir Loch, 286 Hemingburgh, 005 Henderland, 298 Henderson, Willie, 179 Henry I., 066 III., 069 VIII., 004, 049, 074, 099, 132, 169, 170, 177, 197, 208 Hepburn of Bowton, 085 of Hailes, 030 Hermitage Castle, 072, 085, 107, 382 Water, 107, 380, 381 Heron, Lady, 049 Heronry at Dawyck, 351 Herries, 053 Herrit's Dyke, 041 Hertford, 013, 037, 044, 074, 100, 102 129, 132, 141, 170, 227, 287 Hexham, 145 Hielandman's Grave, 116 Hill Burton, 074 Hiltslap, 235 Hindside, 035 Hirsel, The, 060 Hodgson, Richard, 069 Hogg, James, 206, 213, 278, 290, 297, 303, 305 Hollows lower, 419 Holydene, 041, 126, 229 Holylee, 327 Home Castle, 020, 022, 023, 113 Home, Sir David, 020 Family of, 017, 020, 212 Grisell, 042 Lord, 008, 020, 022, 051, 060, 229, 257 of Haliburton, 044 of Polwarth, Patrick, 041 Homildon Hill, 055 Hoolet of Barns, 345 Hornsbole, 187 Horsburgh, 330 Hotspur's Pennon, 184 Howpasley, 192 Howard, Edmund, 053 Edward, 053 Hundalee, 126 Hunsdon, Lord, 037, 134 Hunter, John, 362 Hunthill, 128, 129, 134 "Huntlie Bank," 219 Huntly, Earl of, 052, 106 Hutton Hall, 008 Hyndhope, 280
I
Illicit Stills, 116 Innerleithen, 327
J
James I., 337, 342 II., 023, 067, 080 III., 005 IV., 048, 049, 281 V., 178, 197, 229, 282, 287, 406 VI. and I., 006, 067, 305, 353, 413, 416 "Jamie Telfer, 377, 192, 280, 410 Jed, 033, 078, 094, 124, 152, 166 Jedburgh, 023, 078, 090, 114, 119, 126, 131, 171, 222 Abbey, 092, 095, 102, 113 Castle, 092, 093 Prison, 123 Jedforest Hunt, 129 "Jethart's here!", 100, 146 John, King, 004 John's Cleuch, 030
K
Kale Water, 084, 087, 126, 166 Kelso, 026, 033, 061, 064, 071, 113, 114, 126, 222, 267 Abbey, 074, 084 Ker, Dand, 086 of Cessford, 069, 087, 229 of Pernihirst, 008, 069, 229 of Graden, 078 of Samuelton, George, 008 Sir Andrew, 135 Sir John, 132 Sir Thomas, 130 Kershope Burn, 392 Kerss, Rob., 205 Killiecrankie, 137 "Kilmeny" 271 King Arthur, 244, 347 "King of the Woods," 125 Kingledores Burn, 357 Kingside, 286 Kinmont Willie, 179, 392, 399 Kirk Andrews, 416 Kirk o' Field, 085 Kirkhope Lînn, 278 Tower, 278 Kirk Sessions, 062 Knight of Liddesdale, 246, 326, 383 Knox, John, 052, 214
L
Lacy, Richard de, 004 Lads of Wamphray, 089 Lady of Branksome, 194 "Lady of the Lake," 322 Ladykirk, 048 Laidlaw, Will, 213, 297 of Peel, 324 Laiton, 170, 227 Lammermuirs, 007, 029, 144, 212, 216 Lanercost, 409 Langholm, 418, 424 Castle, 424 Langshaw, 235 Langton Tower, 020 Lanton Village, 093 Tower, 128 Larriston, 078, 185 Lauder, French Prisoners at, 270 Bridge, 005 Lauderdale, Earl of, 045, 213, 216 Lawson, Rev. Dr., 263 "Lay of the Last Minstrel, 192, 281, 322 Leader Water, 041, 212 Leaderfoot, 222 Le Croc. M., 111 Leet Water, 057 Legerwood, 016, 041 Lei then, 328 Lennox, 053 Leslie, Bishop of Ross, 151 General, 038, 046, 056, 254 Norman, 170 Lessudden, 026, 206 Lethem, 165 Lethington, 216 Mr. Secretary, 107 Leyden, John, 179, 190, 247, 322 Liddel Castle, 357 Moat, 415 Valley, 152 Water, 078, 116, 152, 380, 386, 393 Liddesdale, 115, 144, 150,152,178,378, 380 Lilliardsedge, 169, 222 Lirnekilnedge, 381 Lincumdoddie, 356 Lindean, 246, 252 Lindisfarne, Bishop of, 097 Lindsay, Sir James, 158 Linglie, 249, 252 Lintalee, 092, 125, 128 Lin thill House, 018 Linton, 084 Tower, 085 Lion of Liddesdale, 078 Littledean, 206 "Little Jock Elliot," 106, 387 Loch of the Lowes, 292, 301 Skene, 369 Lockhart, J. G., 206, 208, 232, 353, 380 Longtown, 152, 399 Lord Maxwell's Muster Roll, 401 Lost Pay Chest, 038 Lothian, Lord, 135, 138 Marquess of, 103 Lumsden, Margaret, 045 Lyne Water, 347
M
Maccus Whele, 073 Mackay, 137 "Mad" Jack Hall, 162 Maid of Norway, 005 Maitland of Lethington, 214 Makerstoun, 204, 222 Malcolm II., 003, 048 IV., 236 The Maiden, 001 Mangerton Castle, 390 Manor Kirkyard, 344 Valley, 343 Water, 345 Manslaughter Law, 029 Marchmont, Earl of, 022, 041 House, 042 Alarmion, 051, 055, 094, 322 Marquis of Annandale's Beef Stand, 375 Mary of Gueldres, 023, 081 Guise, 214 Mary Queen of Scots, 023, 052, 074, 104, 169, 194, 208, 250, 330, 408 Mathieson, 322 Maxwell, 053 Sir Herbert, 002, 030, 072, 084, 169, 176, 338 Sir John, 158 Meg Dods, 339 Megget, 300 Melrose, 071, 166, 170, 225, 235 Abbey, 163, 172, 256 Melville of Halhill, Sir James, 112 Menzion, 357 Merlin, 351 Merse, 021, 048, 134, 144 Mertoun, 206 Bridge, 220 Midlem Bridge, 172 Miles, Sir George Heron, 147 Milnholm Cross, 390 Minchmuir, 002, 038 Minto, 180 Crags, 144, 180 Moffat, 369, 373, 375 "Monastery, The" 227, 233, 235 Monk, General, 059 Monks' Ford, 220 Monk law, 128 Monmouth, Duke of, 196 Anne, Duchess of, 316 Mons Meg, 048, 080 Montague, Sir William, 068 Montgomery, Earl of, 158 Montrose, Marquis of, 002, 038, 076, 254 Moray, Earl of, 106 Countess of, 112 Morebattle, 086 Morton, Earl of, 147 Regent, 367 Mossburnfoot, 126 Mossfennan, 336 Muckle Mouthed Meg, 327 Murray of Broughton, 355 Sir David, 355 Sir Gideon, 327 of Philiphaugh, Sir John, 247 Musgrave, Sir William, 405 Muthag, Provost, 272 Mutiny Stones, 030
N
Naesmiths, 346 Napier and Ettrick, Lord, 055, 387 Napoleon, 024, 262 Naworth, 409 Neidpath Hill, 322 Castle, 337, 342 Netherby, 416 Nett ley Burn, 249 Neville's Cross, 415 Newark Tower, 278, 315 Newcastle, 077, 141, 145, 159, 160, 203 Newcastleton, 387 Newstead, 142, 166, 212, 224 Newton Don, 064 Nine Cairn Edge, 216 Niue Stane Rig, 381 Norfolk, 074 Norham, 004, 047 North, Christopher, 301 Note o' the Gate, 115, 378 Notman Law, 346
O
Oakwood Tower, 276 Ogle, Sir James, 147 Sir Robert, 067, 069 Old Jedward, 128 Mailros, 028 Melrose, 212, 213, 222 "Old Mortality," 362 "Old Q," 341 Oliver, Auld Ringan, 136 Oliver Castle, 359 Ormistoun, 035, 086 Otterburne, 072, 149, 170 Village, 162 Hall, 164 Ottercops, 149 Outlaw Murray, 035, 313 Oxnam Water, 087, 126, 166
P
Park, Archibald, 315 Mungo. 314, 326 Pearlin, Jean, 008 "Peblis to the Play," 339 Peebles, 309, 330, 334, 336, 340, 349 Peel Burn, 152, 379 Fell, 001, 143, 379 Penchrise, 001, 176, 280 Pennecuîck, Dr., 342, 353 Pennistone Knowe, 292 Penshiel, 030 Penton, 415 Linn, 407, 415 Percy, 040 Earl, 153, 161 Henry, 092 Ralph, 158 Percy's Cross, 162 Philiphaugh, 002, 038 Piets' Work Dyke, 379 Pinkie, 056 Piper's Pool, 254 Pitcairn's Criminal Priais, 086 Pitscottie, 051, 081, 198, 282 Plague, The, 246 Plummer of Sunderland Hall, 257 Poachers, 173, 242, 254 Pollution of Rivers, 094, 095, 185, 237, 238, 252, 327 Polmood, 356 Burn, 357 Polwarth, 042 Lord, 192 Porteous of Hawkshaw, 371 Possessed Woman in Duns, 045 Posso, 345, 347 Craigs, 346 Pot Loch, 259 Powsayl Burn, 351 "Pride and Poverty !", 083 Priesthaugh Burn, 107 Prince Charlie, 077, 078, 114, 115, 126, 409 Prisoners' Bush, 260 Theatre, 268 Proclamation of St. James's Fair, 082 Purdie, Tom, 322
Q
Queen Mary's House, 104 Illness, 109 Queen's Mire, 108 "Queens Wake" 121 Queensberry, Duke of, 118
R
Raecleuch, 035 Raid of the Reidswire, 244 Ramsay, Sir Alexander, 383 Rev. Mr., 064 Randall's Wa's, 347 Randolph, 347 Rankleburo, 002, 286 Raven Burn, 152 Craig, 031 Redbraes, 042 Redesdale, 141, 145 R de Valley, 088, 115, 141, 161 "Redgauntlet", 375, 417 Regiment, 94th, 266 Renwick, 292 Richard, King, 004 II., 208 Richmond, Sir Thos., 125 Riddell, 174 Rink, 002, 245, 249 Riskinhope, 292 Rivalry between Kelso and Jedburgh, 082 Rob o' the Trows, 205 Robert II., 208 Rhymer's Glen, 219, 231 Roman Road, 088 Rory dhu Mohr, 137 Rothely Crags, 149 Rowchester, 142 Roxburgh, 023, 067, 126 Castle, 078, 092, 149 Newtown, 085 Roxburghe, Duke of, 071 Ruberslaw, 144, 183, 212 Rule Water, 107, 177, 212 Ruskin, John, 094, 230 Russell, Sir Francis, 147 Russell of Yarrow, Rev. Drs., 281, 298 Rutherford, 206 Alison, 319 Rev. John, 308 "Rutherfurd Bauld," 146 Rutherfurd, Captain, 123 Rutherfurds, 141 Ruthven, Lord, 134
S
St. Ahb's Head, 025 St. Andrews, Bishops of, 049 St. Boswells, 078, 206 Green, 221 St. Cuthbert, 206, 216, 357 St. Gordian's Kirk, 344, 347 St. James's Fair, 081 St. Kentigern, 382 St. Mary of the Lowes, 177, 295 St. Mary's Chapel, 296 St. Mary's Loch, 287 St. Ronan's, 327 "St. Ronan's Well," 339 Salisbury, Earl of, 068 Salmon, 209 fishing, 222 Sandyknowe, 211 Sark Bridge, 402 Tower, 401 Satcheils, 176 "Savoury Mr. Peden," 183 Scabcleuch, 292 Scots Brigade, 266 Scots Dyke, 418 Scott, Adam of Tushielaw, 282, 299 Sir John, 287 Lady John, 087 Mary, "the Flower of Yarrow," 305 Scott, Michael, 256, 276 Sir Walter, 002, 025, 038, 051, 068, 078, 083, 118, 144, 174, 179, 180, 198, 206, 208, 227, 236, 257, 305, 322, 325, 339, 343, 347, 353, 355. 369, 380, 384, 399, 419 Scott, Sir Walter and the Border Minstrelsy, 213 Scott of Gorrenberry, 117 of Tushielaw, 213 Scotts of Buccleuch, 071, 102, 144, 170, 192, 195, 286, 384 of Harden, 276, 327 Scrope, 174, 222 Lord, 397, 398, 400, 416 Selkirk, 026, 172, 231, 247, 249, 252, 269, 388 Cauld, 253 Common Riding, 270 "Selkirk Craws," 084 Selkirk Flodden Traditions, 256 Prison, 123 Selkirkshire Yeomanry, 257 Shaftoes, 145 Shielhope Head, 346 Shrewsbury, Lord, 130 Sidney, Sir Philip, 149 Sinclair, Oliver, 404 Singlie, 280 Skelfhill, 001, 002, 176, 280, 382 Skene of Rubislaw, 369 Skirmish Field, 229 Skraysburgh, 101, 128 Slain Man's Lea, 315 Slitrjg, 001, 107, 188, 280, 381 Smailcleuchfoot, 136 Smailholme Tower, 144, 209 Snow Storm of 1831, 373 Solway Moss, 403, 406, 418 Somerset, 022, 127, 130 "Soor Plums in Galashiels," 240 Soulis, Lord, 381 "Souters of Selkirk," 53, 257 Southdean, 033, 148, 150, 165, 167, 380 Soutra Hill, 236, 241 Spirit of Borderers, 025 Spottisw'oode, 217 Springwood Park, 071, 072 Spy at Southdean, 151 Stanhope, 355 Burn, 357 Stanley, 053 Stephen, King, 069 Stewart of Stewartfield, Colonel, 119 Stobo, 016, 348 Stobs Camp, 381 Stoddart, 034, 057 Stow, 244 Stuart, Lady Louisa, 333 Sir Robert, 008 Sunderland Hall, 249, 257 Sunlaws, 126 "Superstitions, Teviotdale, 121 Surrey, Earl of, 051, 054, 068, 097, 129, 130 Sussex, Earl of, 023, 037, 066, 134, 186 "Sweet Leader Haughs," 217 "Sweet Milk" Robin, 177 Swinnie Moor, 107 Synton, 175, 285
T
Tall, a, 352, 357, 363 Linn, 360, 365 Reservoir, 357 Tarth Water, 347 Telfer, James, 136 "Teribus and Teriodden," 186 Teviot, 001, 033, 078, 094, 126, 166, 169, 176, 179, 193, 203, 280 Teviotdale, 016, 134, 144, 178, 181, 388 "The Eve of St. John, 209 The Great Unknown, 261 "The Young Tantieme273 Three Brethren, 271, 320 "Three days' blood," 089 Thiefs Road. 346 Thirlestane (Patrick), 287 Castle (Lauderdale), 045 Thomas of Ercildoune, 217 Thomas the Rhymer, 076, 209, 217, 353 Thomson, James, 033, 124, 172 Thornilee, 327 Tibbie Shiels, 291, 301 Tamson, 271 Till, 048, 050 Timpendean, 169 Tinnies, 348, 350 Tinnis (Yarrow), 038 Torsonce, 244 Torwoodlee, 002, 041, 243 Turn Again, 178, 232 Turnbulls of Rule Water, 145, 177 Tushielaw, 002, 281, 289 Traquair, 305, 330 Countess of, 333 Earl of, 038, 254, 331 Trout-fishing, 220, 241 "True Thomas," 217, 219, 319 Tweed, 002, 3, 048, 173, 204, 212, 222, 231, 237, 245, 271 309, 319, 347, 357, 371, 375, 377 Tweeddale, Lord, 341 Tweed Shaws, 372 Tweed's Cross, 372 Well, 372 Tweedsmuir, 301, 340, 357, 371 Church, 361 Kirk Session Records, 362 Post Office, 359 "Tweed" Trade, 239 Tweedys, 349 Twin Law Cairns, 029 Twizell Bridge, 051
V
Veitch, Professor, 167, 342, 347 Veitchs of Dawyck, 348
W
Wade, Marshall, 077 Waich Water, 029 Walkerburn, 327 Wallace, Sir William, 208, 354 Wamphray, 089 Wark Castle, 050, 057, 066, 134, 149 Water-Bull, 234 Wauchope, 425 Castle, 424 Wedale, 244 Wedderlie, 035 "Weir of Hermiston, 355 Weirdlaw Hill, 235 Well of the Holy Water Cleuch, 216 Wheeling Head, 132 Whele Causeway, 115, 150, 379 Chapel, 379 Whitadder, 007 White, Mr. Robert, 163 Whithaugh Mill, 116 Whitterhope Burn, 381 Will's Nick, 254 Will of Phaup, 280, 288 William the Lion, 004, 048, 091, 255, 330 le Walleys, 348 Williamhope Ridge, 325 Willie of Westburnflat, 387 Windburgh Hill, 144, 188 Wind Pell, 287 Windy Law, 286 Winter, Jamie, 043 Witch of Fauldshope, 277 "Witch of Fife," 121 Woifstruther, 035 Wooler, 051, 078, 149 Wordsworth, 118, 341 Wortnscleuch Burn, 379
Y
YAIR, 176, 250, 319 Bridge, 249, 318 Cauld, 249 Yarrow, 002, 038, 039, 094, 176, 273, 287, 292, 294 Dowie Dens of, 072, 311 Kirk, 306, 309 Manse, 306 Yetholm, 149, 150 Young Hay of Talla, 364