Category: Travel Writing

Highways and Byways in Sussex

The fitting order of a traveller's progress--The Downs the true Sussex--Fashion at bay--Mr. Kipling's topographical creed--Midhurst's advantages--Single railway lines--Queen Elizabeth at Cowdray--Montagus domestic and homicidal--The curse of Cowdray--Dr. Johnson at Midhurst--C...

Chapters

1. Chapter 1

2. Chapter 2

The fitting order of a traveller's progress--The Downs the true Sussex--Fashion at bay--Mr. Kipling's topographical creed--Midhurst's advantages--Single railway lines--Queen Eli...

3. Chapter 3

Hanging in chains--A wooded paradise--Fernhurst--Shulbrede Priory--Blackdown--Tennyson's Sussex home--Thomas Otway--Kate Hotspur's Grave--A Sussex ornithologist--The friend of o...

4. Chapter 4

Between Midhurst and Chichester, our next centre, rise the Downs, to a height of between seven hundred and eight hundred feet. Although we shall often be crossing them again bef...

5. Chapter 5

The perfect ode which opens with these unforgettable lines belongs to Chichester, for William Collins was born there on Christmas Day, 1721, and educated there, at the Prebendal...

6. Chapter 6

Goodwood--The art of being a park--The Cenotaph of Lord Darnley--Boxgrove--Cowper at Eastham--The Charlton Hunt--A famous run--Huntsman and Saint--Present day hunting in Sussex-...

7. Chapter 7

Bosham and history--An expensive pun--The Bosham bells--Chidham wheat--The Manhood peninsula--Selsey's adders--Selsey Bill--St. Wilfrid and the Sussex heathen--Pagham Harbour in...

8. Chapter 8

Seen from the river or from the east side of the Arun valley, Arundel is the most imposing town in Sussex. Many are larger, many are equally old, or older; but none wears so unu...

9. Chapter 9

A children's paradise--Wind-swept villages--Cary and Coleridge--Sussex folklore--Climping--Richard Jefferies and Sussex--John Taylor the Water Poet--Highdown Hill--A miller in l...

10. Chapter 10

Five miles to the north of Arundel by road (over the Arun at Houghton's ancient bridge, restored by the bishops of Chichester in the fifteenth century), and a few minutes by rai...

11. Chapter 11

Pulborough and its past--Stopham--Fittleworth--The natural advantages of the Swan--Petworth's feudal air--An historical digression naming many Percies--The third Earl of Egremon...

12. Chapter 12

Two miles due south from Petworth is Burton Park, a modest sandy pleasaunce, with some beautiful deer, an ugly house, and a church for the waistcoat pocket, which some American...

13. Chapter 13

Horsham stone--Horsham and history--Pressing to death--Juvenile hostility to statues--Horsham's love of pleasure--Percy Bysshe Shelley's boyhood--a letter of invitation--Seditio...

14. Chapter 14

To the east of Horsham spreads St. Leonard's Forest, that vast tract of moor and preserve which, merging into Tilgate Forest, Balcombe Forest, and Worth Forest, extends a large...

15. Chapter 15

West Grinstead is perhaps the most remarkable of the villages on the line from Horsham to Steyning, by reason of its association with literature, _The Rape of the Lock_ having b...

16. Chapter 16

The beginnings of Steyning are lost in the distance. Its church was founded, probably in the eighth century, by St. Cuthman, an early Christian whose adventures were more than u...

17. Chapter 17

Chanctonbury Ring--The planter of the beeches--The Gorings--Thomas Fuller on the Three Shirleys--Ashington's chief--Warminghurst and the phantasm--Washington--An expensive mug o...

18. Chapter 18

A decline in interest--The storied past of Brighton--Dr. Russell's discovery--The First Gentleman in Europe--The resources of the Steyne--Promenade Grove--A loyal journalist--Th...

19. Chapter 19

Ovingdean--Charles II.--The introduction of Mangel Wurzel--Rottingdean as a shrine--Mr. Kipling's Sussex poem--Thomas Fuller on the Wheatear--Mr. Hudson's description of the tra...

20. Chapter 20

The cliffs that make the coast between Newhaven and Brighton so attractive slope gradually to level ground at the Aquarium and never reappear in Sussex on the Channel's edge aga...

21. Chapter 21

Sussex and Leith Hill--The Dyke hill--Two recollections--Bustard hunting on the Downs--The Queen of the gipsies--The Devil in Sussex--The feeble legend of the Dyke--Poynings--Ne...

22. Chapter 22

Another good walk from Brighton begins with a short railway journey to Falmer on the Lewes line. Then strike into Stanmer Park, the seat of the Earl of Chichester, a descendant...

23. Chapter 23

Hayward's Heath--Rookwood and the fatal tree--Timothy Burrell and his account books--Old Sussex appetites--Plum-porridge--A luckless lover--The original Merry Andrew--Ancient te...

24. Chapter 24

Balcombe--The iron furnace and the iron horse--Leonard Gale of Tinsloe Forge--Mr. Wilfred Scawen Blunt of Crabbet--"The Old Squire"--Frederick Locker-Lampson of Rowfant--The Row...

25. Chapter 25

Sackville College--John Mason Neale--_Theodosius; or, The Force of Love_, at the East Grinstead Theatre--Three martyrs--Brambletye House--Forest Row--The garden of the author of...

26. Chapter 26

The origin of "Keynes"--The Rev. Giles Moore's expenditure--Advice as to tithes--Lord Sheffield and cricket--The grave of Edward Gibbon--Fletching and English History--Newick an...

27. Chapter 27

The Museum of Sussex--The riches of Lewes--Her leisure and antiquity--A plea from _Idlehurst_--Old Lewes disabilities--The Norman Conquest--Lewes Castle--Sussex curiosities--Lew...

28. Chapter 28

The road from Lewes to the sea runs along the edge of the Ouse levels, just under the bare hills, passing through villages that are little more than homesteads of the sheep-farm...

29. Chapter 29

Three routes to Alfriston--West Firle--The Gages--A "Noble Dame"--Sussex pronunciation and doggedness--The Selmeston smugglers--Alfriston's ancient inn--The middle ages and P......

30. Chapter 30

The Cuckmere Valley--Alfriston smuggling foreordained--Desperado and benefactor--A witty minister--Hawker of Morwenstowe--The church and run spirits--The two smugglers, the sea...

31. Chapter 31

Mount Caburn--The lark's song--William Hay, the poet of Caburn--Glynde church and Glynde place--John Ellman--The South Down sheep--Arthur Young--Ringmer and William Penn--The Ri...

32. Chapter 32

Uckfield, on the line from Lewes to Tunbridge Wells, is our true starting point for the high sandy and rocky district of Crowborough, Rotherfield and Mayfield; but we must visit...

33. Chapter 33

Crowborough the suburban--Rotherfield's three rivers--The extra ribs--Wild flowers and railway companies--The perfect hill--An arid district--St. Dunstan and the Devil--Why Tunb...

34. Chapter 34

The two Heathfields--Heathfield Park--"Hefful" Fair and the spring--The death of Jack Cade--Warbleton's martyr--Three "lies" and all true--An ecclesiastical confection--The bloo...

35. Chapter 35

_Cade._ Fie on ambition! fie on myself; that have a sword, and yet am ready to famish! These five days have I hid me in these woods, and durst not peep out, for all the country...

36. Chapter 36

Select Eastbourne. The "English Salvator Rosa"--Sops and Ale--Beau Chef--"The Breeze on Beachy Head"--Shakespeare and the Cliff--"To a Seamew"--The new lighthouse--Parson Darby...

37. Chapter 37

A well-behaved castle--Rail and romance--Britons, Romans, Saxons and Normans at Pevensey--William the Conqueror--A series of sieges--The first English letter--Andrew Borde, the...

38. Chapter 38

Brighton, as we have seen, was made by Dr. Russell. It was Dr. Baillie, some years later, who discovered the salubrious qualities of Hastings. In 1806, when the Duke of Wellingt...

39. Chapter 39

Le Souvenir Normande--The Battle of Hastings--Normans and Saxons on the eve--Taillefer--The battle cries--The death of Harold--Harold's body: three stories--The field of blood--...

40. Chapter 40

Medieval Sussex--The suddenness of Rye--The approach by night--Cities of the plain--Old Winchelsea--The freakish sea--New Winchelsea--The eternal French problem--Modern Winchels...

41. Chapter 41

Horace Walpole in difficulties--A bibliophile's threat--Salehurst--Bodiam--Northiam--Queen Elizabeth's dinner and shoes--Brightling--Jack Fuller--Turner in East Sussex--The Burw...

42. Chapter 42

Over the border--The beginnings of the wells--Tunbridge Wells to-day--Mr. George Meredith--The Toad and other rocks--Eridge--Trespassing in Sussex--Saxonbury--Bayham Abbey--Lamb...

43. Chapter 43

French words at Hastings and Rye--Saxon on the farms--Mr. W. D. Parish's _Dictionary of the Sussex Dialect_--The rules of the game--The raciest of the words--A Sussex criticism...

44. Chapter 44

It almost necessarily follows that in a book such as this, which in brief compass attempts to take some account of every interesting or charming spot in a large tract of country...