Part 94

It is perhaps unnecessary to add that as large a quantity as possible should be decanted, and then the residue filtered. This obviously prevents loss by evaporation. Talc or kieselguhr (amorphous SiO_〈2〉) are perhaps the best substances to add to the filter in order to render liquid perfumes bright and clear, and more especially necessary in the case of aromatic vinegars.

The operations involved in making perfumes are simple; the chief thing to be learned, perhaps, is to judge of the quality of materials.

The term “extract,” when used in most formulas, means an alcoholic solution of the odorous principles of certain flowers obtained by enfluerage; that is, the flowers are placed in contact with prepared grease which absorbs the odorous matter, and this grease is in turn macerated with alcohol which dissolves out the odor. A small portion of the grease is taken up also at ordinary temperatures; this is removed by filtering the “extract” while “chilled” by a freezing mixture. The extracts can be either purchased or made directly from the pomade (as the grease is called). To employ the latter method successfully some experience may be necessary.

The tinctures are made with 95 per cent deodorized alcohol, enough menstruum being added through the marc when filtering to bring the finished preparation to the measure of the menstruum originally taken.

The glycerine is intended to act as a “fixing” agent—that is, to lessen the volatility of the perfumes.

«Tinctures for Perfumes.»—

_a._ Ambergris, 1 part; alcohol, 96 per cent, 15 parts.

_b._ Benzoin, Sumatra, 1 part; alcohol, 96 per cent, 6 parts.

_c._ Musk, 1 part; distilled water, 25 parts; spirit, 96 per cent, 25 parts.

_d._ Musk, 1 part; spirit, 96 per cent, 50 parts; for very oleiferous compositions.

_e._ Peru balsam, 1 part in spirit, 96 per cent, 7 parts; shake vigorously.

_f._ Storax, 1 part in spirit, 96 per cent, 15 parts.

_g._ Powdered Tolu balsam, 1 part; spirit, 96 per cent, 6 parts.

_h._ Chopped Tonka beans, 1 part; spirit, 60 per cent, 6 parts; for compositions containing little oil.

_i._ Chopped Tonka beans, 1 part; spirit, 96 per cent, 6 parts; for compositions containing much oil.

_j._ Vanilla, 1 part; spirit, 60 per cent, 6 parts; for compositions containing little oil.

_k._ Vanilla, 1 part; spirit, 96 per cent, 6 parts; for compositions containing much oil.

_l._ Vanillin, 20 parts; spirit, 96 per cent, 4,500 parts.

_m._ Powdered orris root, 1 part; spirit, 96 per cent, 5 parts.

_n._ Grated civet, 1 part in spirit, 96 per cent, 10 parts.

«Bay Rum.»—Bay rum, or more properly bay spirit, may be made from the oil with weak alcohol as here directed:

I.—Oil of bay leaves 3 drachms Oil of orange peel 1⁠/⁠2 drachm Tincture of orange peel 2 ounces Magnesium carbonate 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Alcohol 4 pints Water 4 pints

Triturate the oils with the magnesium carbonate, gradually adding the other ingredients previously mixed, and filter.

The tincture of orange peel is used chiefly as a coloring for the mixture.

Oil of bay leaves as found in the market varies in quality. The most costly will presumably be found the best, and its use will not make the product expensive. It can be made from the best oil and deodorized alcohol and still sold at a moderate price with a good profit.

Especial care should be taken to use only perfectly fresh oil of orange peel. As is well known, this oil deteriorates rapidly on exposure to the air, acquiring an odor similar to that of turpentine. The oil should be kept in bottles of such size that when opened the contents can be all used in a short time. {514}

II.—Bay oil, 15 parts; sweet orange oil, 1 part; pimento oil, 1 part; spirit of wine, 1,000 parts; water, 750 parts; soap spirit or quillaia bark, ad libitum.

III.—Bay oil, 12.5 parts; sweet orange oil, 0.5 part; pimento oil, 0.5 part; spirit of wine, 200 parts; water, 2,800 parts; Jamaica rum essence, 75 parts; soap powder, 20 parts; quillaia extract, 5 parts; borax, 10 parts; use sugar color.

«Colognes.»—In making cologne water, the alcohol used should be that obtained from the distillation of wine, provided a first-class article is desired. It is possible, of course, to make a good cologne with very highly rectified and deodorized corn or potato spirits, but the product never equals that made from wine spirits. Possibly the reason for this lies in the fact that the latter always contains a varying amount of oenanthic ether.

I.—Oil of bergamot 10 parts Oil of neroli 15 parts Oil of citron 5 parts Oil of cedrat 5 parts Oil of rosemary 1 part Tincture of ambergris 5 parts Tincture of benzoin 5 parts Alcohol 1,000 parts

II.—The following is stated to be the “original” formula:

Oil of bergamot 96 parts Oil of citron 96 parts Oil of cedrat 96 parts Oil of rosemary 48 parts Oil of neroli 48 parts Oil of lavender 48 parts Oil of cavella 24 parts Absolute alcohol 1,000 parts Spirit of rosemary 25,000 parts

III.—Alcohol, 90 per cent 5,000 parts Bergamot oil 220 parts Lemon oil 75 parts Neroli oil 20 parts Rosemary oil 5 parts Lavender oil French 5 parts

The oils are well dissolved in spirit and left alone for a few days with frequent shaking. Next add about 40 parts of acetic acid and filter after a while.

IV.—Alcohol, 90 per cent 5,000 parts Lavender oil, French 35 parts Lemon oil 30 parts Portugallo oil 30 parts Neroli oil 15 parts Bergamot oil 15 parts Petit grain oil 4 parts Rosemary oil 4 parts Orange water 700 parts

«Cologne Spirits or Deodorized Alcohol.»—This is used in all toilet preparations and perfumes. It is made thus:

Alcohol, 95 per cent 1 gallon Powdered unslaked lime 4 drachms Powdered alum 2 drachms Spirit of nitrous ether 1 drachm

Mix the lime and alum, and add them to the alcohol, shaking the mixture well together; then add the sweet spirit of niter and set aside for 7 days, shaking occasionally; finally filter.

«Florida Waters.»—

Oil of bergamot 3 fluidounces Oil of lavender 1 fluidounce Oil of cloves 1 1⁠/⁠4 fluidrachms Oil of cinnamon 2 1⁠/⁠2 fluidrachms Oil of neroli 1⁠/⁠2 fluidrachm Oil of lemon 1 fluidounce Essence of jasmine 6 fluidounces Essence of musk 2 fluidounces Rose water 1 pint Alcohol 8 pints

Mix, and if cloudy, filter through magnesium carbonate.

«Lavender Water.»—This, the most famous of all the perfumed waters, was originally a distillate from a mixture of spirit and lavender flowers. This was the perfume. Then came a compound water, or “palsy water,” which was intended strictly for use as a medicine, but sometimes containing ambergris and musk, as well as red sanders wood. Only the odor of the old compound remains to us as a perfume, and this is the odor which all perfume compounders endeavor to hit. The most important precaution in making lavender water is to use well-matured oil of lavender. Some who take pride in this perfume use no oil which is less than 5 years old, and which has had 1 ounce of rectified spirit added to each pound of oil before being set aside to mature. After mixing, the perfume should stand for at least a month before filtering through gray filtering paper. This may be taken as a general instruction:

I.—Oil of lavender 1 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Oil of bergamot 4 drachms Essence ambergris 4 drachms Proof spirit 3 pints

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II.—English oil of lavender 1 ounce Oil of bergamot 1 1⁠/⁠2 drachms Essence of musk (No. 2) 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Essence of ambergris 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Proof spirit 2 pints

III.—English oil of lavender 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Oil of bergamot 2 drachms Essence of ambergris 1 drachm Essence of musk (No. 1) 3 drachms Oil of angelica 2 minims Attar of rose 6 minims Proof spirit 1 pint

IV.—Oil of lavender 4 ounces Grain musk 15 grains Oil of bergamot 2 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Attar of rose 1 1⁠/⁠2 drachms Oil of neroli 1⁠/⁠2 drachm Spirit of nitrous ether 2 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Triple rose water 12 ounces Proof spirit 5 pints

Allow to stand 5 weeks before filtering.

«LIQUID PERFUMES FOR THE HANDKERCHIEF, PERSON, ETC.:»

Acacia Extract.—

French acacia 400 parts Tincture of amber (1 in 10) 3 parts Eucalyptus oil 0.5 parts Lavender oil 1 part Bergamot oil 1 part Tincture of musk 2 parts Tincture of orris root 150 parts Spirit of wine, 80 per cent 500 parts

Bishop Essence.—

Fresh green peel of unripe oranges 60.0 grams Curaçao orange peel 180.0 grams Malaga orange peel 90.0 grams Ceylon cinnamon 2.0 grams Cloves 7.5 grams Vanilla 11.0 grams Orange flower oil 4 drops Spirit of wine 1,500.0 grams Hungarian wine 720.0 grams

A dark-brown tincture of pleasant taste and smell.

Caroline Bouquet.—

Oil of lemon 15 minims Oil of bergamot 1 drachm Essence of rose 4 ounces Essence of tuberose 4 ounces Essence of violet 4 ounces Tincture of orris 2 ounces

Alexandra Bouquet.—

Oil of bergamot 3 1⁠/⁠2 drachms Oil of rose geranium 1⁠/⁠2 drachm Oil of rose 1⁠/⁠2 drachm Oil of cassia 15 minims Deodorized alcohol 1 pint

Navy Bouquet.—

Spirit of sandalwood 10 ounces Extract of patchouli 10 ounces Spirit of rose 10 ounces Spirit of vetivert 10 ounces Extract of verbena 12 ounces

Bridal Bouquet.—Sandal oil, 30 minims; rose extract, 4 fluidounces; jasmine extract, 4 fluidounces; orange flower extract, 16 fluidounces; essence of vanilla, 1 fluidounce; essence of musk, 2 fluidounces; tincture of storax, 2 fluidounces. (The tincture of storax is prepared with liquid storax and alcohol [90 per cent], 1:20, by macerating for 7 days.)

Irish Bouquet.—

White rose essence 5,000 parts Vanilla essence 450 parts Rose oil 5 parts Spirit 100 parts

Essence Bouquet.—

I.—Spirit 8,000 parts Distilled water 2,000 parts Iris tincture 250 parts Vanilla herb tincture 100 parts Benzoin tincture 40 parts Bergamot oil 50 parts Storax tincture 50 parts Clove oil 15 parts Palmarosa oil 12 parts Lemon-grass oil 15 parts

II.—Extract of rose (2d) 64 ounces Extract of jasmine (2d) 12 ounces Extract of cassie (2d) 8 ounces Tincture of orris (1 to 4) 64 ounces Oil of bergamot 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Oil of cloves 1 drachm Oil of ylang-ylang 1⁠/⁠2 drachm Tincture of benzoin (1 to 8) 2 ounces Glycerine 4 ounces

Bouquet Canang.—

Ylang-ylang oil 45 minims Grain musk 3 grains Rose oil 15 minims Tonka beans 3 Cassie oil 5 minims Tincture orris rhizome 1 fluidounce {516} Civet 1 grain Almond oil 1⁠/⁠2 minim Storax tincture 3 fluidrachms Alcohol, 90 per cent 9 fluidounces

Mix, and digest 1 month. The above is a very delicious perfume.

Cassie oil or otto is derived from the flowers of _Acacia farnesiana Mimosa farnesiana_, L. (N. O. Leguminosæ, suborder Mimoseæ). It must not be confounded with cassia otto, the essential oil obtained from _Cinnamomum cassia_.

Cashmere Nosegay.—

I.—Essence of violet, from pomade 1 pint Essence of rose, from pomade 1 1⁠/⁠2 pints Tincture of benzoin, (1 to 4) 1⁠/⁠2 pint Tincture of civet (1 to 64) 1⁠/⁠4 pint Tincture of Tonka (1 to 4) 1⁠/⁠4 pint Benzoic acid 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Oil of patchouli 1⁠/⁠4 ounce Oil of sandal 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Rose water 1⁠/⁠2 pint

II.—Essence violet 120 ounces Essence rose 180 ounces Tincture benjamin (1 in 4) 60 ounces Tincture civet (1 in 62) 30 ounces Tincture Tonka (1 in 4) 30 ounces Oil patchouli 3 ounces Oil sandalwood 6 ounces Rose water 60 ounces

Clove Pink.—

I.—Essence of rose 2 ounces Essence of orange flower 6 ounces Tincture of vanilla 3 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Oil of cloves 20 minims

II.—Essence of cassie 5 ounces Essence of orange flower 5 ounces Essence of rose 10 ounces Spirit of rose 7 ounces Tincture of vanilla 3 ounces Oil of cloves 12 minims

Frangipanni.—

I.—Grain musk 10 grains Sandal otto 25 minims Rose otto 25 minims Orange flower otto (neroli) 30 minims Vetivert otto 5 minims Powdered orris rhizome 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Vanilla 30 grains Alcohol (90 per cent) 10 fluidounces

Mix and digest for 1 month. This is a lasting and favorite perfume.

II.—Oil of rose 2 drachms Oil of neroli 2 drachms Oil of sandalwood 2 drachms Oil of geranium (French) 2 drachms Tincture of vetivert (1 1⁠/⁠4 to 8) 96 ounces Tincture of Tonka (1 to 8) 16 ounces Tincture of orris (1 to 4) 64 ounces Glycerine 6 ounces Alcohol 64 ounces

Handkerchief Perfumes.—

I.—Lavender oil 10 parts Neroli oil 10 parts Bitter almond oil 2 parts Orris root 200 parts Rose oil 5 parts Clove oil 5 parts Lemon oil 1 part Cinnamon oil 2 parts

Mix with 2,500 parts of best alcohol, and after a rest of 3 days heat moderately on the water bath, and filter.

II.—Bergamot oil 10 parts Orange peel oil 10 parts Cinnamon oil 2 parts Rose geranium oil 1 part Lemon oil 4 parts Lavender oil 4 parts Rose oil 1 part Vanilla essence 5 parts

Mix with 2,000 parts of best spirit, and after leaving undisturbed for 3 days, heat moderately on the water bath, and filter.

Honeysuckle.—

Oil of neroli 12 minims Oil of rose 10 minims Oil of bitter almond 8 minims Tincture of storax 4 ounces Tincture of vanilla 6 ounces Essence of cassie 16 ounces Essence of rose 16 ounces Essence of tuberose 16 ounces Essence of violet 16 ounces

Iridia.—

Coumarin 10 grains Concentrated rose water (1 to 40) 2 ounces Neroli oil 5 minims Vanilla bean 1 drachm Bitter almond oil 5 minims Orris root 1 drachm Alcohol 10 ounces

Macerate for a month. {517}

Javanese Bouquet.—

Rose oil 15 minims Pimento oil 20 minims Cassia oil 3 minims Neroli oil 3 minims Clove oil 2 minims Lavender oil 60 minims Sandalwood oil 10 minims Alcohol 10 ounces Water 1 1⁠/⁠2 ounces

Macerate for 14 days.

Lily Perfume.—

Essence of jasmine 1 ounce Essence of orange flowers 1 ounce Essence of rose 2 ounces Essence of cassie 2 ounces Essence of tuberose 8 ounces Spirit of rose 1 ounce Tincture of vanilla 1 ounce Oil of bitter almond 2 minims

Lily of the Valley.—

I.—Acacia essence 750 parts Jasmine essence 750 parts Orange flower essence 800 parts Rose flower essence 800 parts Vanilla flower essence 1,500 parts Bitter almond oil 15 parts

II.—Oil of bitter almond 10 minims Tincture of vanilla 2 ounces Essence of rose 2 ounces Essence of orange flower 2 ounces Essence of jasmine 2 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Essence of tuberose 2 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Spirit of rose 2 1⁠/⁠2 ounces

III.—Extract rose 200 parts Extract vanilla 200 parts Extract orange 800 parts Extract jasmine 600 parts Extract musk tincture 150 parts Neroli oil 10 parts Rose oil 6 parts Bitter almond oil 4 parts Cassia oil 5 parts Bergamot oil 6 parts Tonka beans essence 150 parts Linaloa oil 12 parts Spirit of wine (90 per cent) 3,000 parts

IV.—Neroli extract 400 parts Orris root extract 600 parts Vanilla extract 400 parts Rose extract 900 parts Musk extract 200 parts Orange extract 500 parts Clove oil 6 parts Bergamot oil 5 parts Rose geranium oil 15 parts

Maréchal Niel Rose.—In the genus of roses, outside of the hundred-leaved or cabbage rose, the Maréchal Niel rose (Rosa Noisetteana Red), also called Noisette rose and often, erroneously, tea rose, is especially conspicuous. Its fine, piquant odor delights all lovers of precious perfumes. In order to reproduce the fine scent of this flower artificially at periods when it cannot be had without much expenditure, the following recipes will be found useful:

I.—Infusion rose I (from pomades) 1,000 parts Genuine rose oil 10 parts Infusion Tolu balsam 150 parts Infusion genuine musk I 40 parts Neroli oil 30 parts Clove oil 2 parts Infusion tubereuse I (from pomades) 1,000 parts Vanillin 1 part Coumarin 0.5 parts

II.—Triple rose essence 50 grams Simple rose essence 60 grams Neroli essence 30 grams Civet essence 20 grams Iris essence 30 grams Tonka beans essence 20 grams Rose oil 5 drops Jasmine essence 60 grams Violet essence 50 grams Cassia essence 50 grams Vanilla essence 45 grams Clove oil 20 drops Bergamot oil 10 drops Rose geranium oil 20 drops

May Flowers.—

Essence of rose 10 ounces Essence of jasmine 10 ounces Essence of orange flowers 10 ounces Essence of cassie 10 ounces Tincture of vanilla 20 ounces Oil of bitter almond 1⁠/⁠2 drachm

Narcissus.—

Caryophyllin 10 minims Extract of tuberose 16 ounces Extract of jasmine 4 ounces Oil of neroli 20 minims Oil of ylang-ylang 20 minims Oil of clove 5 minims Glycerine 30 minims

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Almond Blossom.—

Extract of heliotrope 30 parts Extract of orange flower 10 parts Extract of jasmine 10 parts Extract of rose 3 parts Oil of lemon 1 part Spirit of bitter almond, 10 per cent 6 parts Deodorized alcohol 40 parts

Artificial Violet.—Ionone is an artificial perfume which smells exactly like fresh violets, and is therefore an extremely important product. Although before it was discovered compositions were known which gave fair imitations of the violet perfume, they were wanting in the characteristic tang which distinguishes all violet preparations. Ionone has even the curious property possessed by violets of losing its scent occasionally for a short time. It occasionally happens that an observer, on taking the stopper out of a bottle of ionone, perceives no special odor, but a few seconds after the stopper has been put back in the bottle, the whole room begins to smell of fresh violets. It seems to be a question of dilution. It is impossible, however, to make a usable extract by mere dilution of a 10 per cent solution of ionone.

It is advisable to make these preparations in somewhat large quantities, say 30 to 50 pounds at a time. This enables them to be stocked for some time, whereby they improve greatly. When all the ingredients are mixed, 10 days or a fortnight, with frequent shakings, should elapse before filtration. The filtered product must be kept in well-filled and well-corked bottles in a dry, dark, cool place, such as a well-ventilated cellar. After 5 or 6 weeks the preparation is ready for use.

Quadruple Extract.—

By weight Jasmine extract, 1st pomade 100 parts Rose extract, 1st pomade 100 parts Cassia extract, 1st pomade 200 parts Violet extract, 1st pomade 200 parts Oil of geranium, Spanish 2 parts Solution of vanillin, 10 per cent 10 parts Solution of orris, 10 per cent 100 parts Solution of ionone, 10 per cent 20 parts Infusion of musk 10 parts Infusion of orris from coarsely ground root 260 parts

Triple Extract.—