Part 91

«Protective Coating for Bright Iron Articles.»—Zinc white, 30 parts; {497} lampblack, 2 parts; tallow, 7 parts; vaseline, 1 part; olive oil, 3 parts; varnish, 1 part. Boil together 1⁠/⁠4 hour and add 1⁠/⁠2 part of benzine and 1⁠/⁠4 part of turpentine, stirring the mass carefully and boiling for some time. The finished paste-like substance can be readily removed with a rag without the use of solvents.

«Rust Paints.»—I.—A new rust paint is produced by the following process: Mix 100 parts dry iron sulphate and 87 parts sodium chlorate and heat to 1,500° to 1,800° F. The chlorine set free seems to have a very favorable action on the color of the simultaneously forming iron oxide. In order to avoid, however, too far-reaching an effect of the chlorine gas, about 18 pounds of a substance which absorbs the same mechanically, such as kaolin, ground pumice stone, ocher, etc., are added to the mixture.

II.—A material known under the names of lardite, steatite, agalmatolite, pagodite, is excellently adapted as a substitute for the ordinary metallic protective agent of the pigments and has the property of protecting iron from rust in an effective manner. In China, lardite is used for protecting edifices of sandstone, which crumbles under the action of the atmosphere. Likewise a thin layer of powdered steatite, applied in the form of paint, has been found valuable there as a protector against the decay of obelisks, statues, etc. Lardite, besides, possesses the quality of being exceedingly fine-grained, which renders this material valuable for use in ship painting. Ground steatite is one of the finest materials which can be produced, and no other so quickly and firmly adheres to the fibers of iron and steel. Furthermore, steatite is lighter than metallic covering agents, and covers, mixed in paint, a larger surface than zinc white, red lead, or iron oxide. Steatite as it occurs in Switzerland is used there and in the Tyrol for stoves, since it is fireproof.

«Steel.»—An excellent coating for steel, imitating the blue color of natural steel, is composed of white shellac, 5 parts; borax, 1 part; alcohol, 5 parts; water, 4 parts; and a sufficient quantity of methylene blue. The borax is dissolved in water, the shellac in alcohol. The aqueous solution of the borax is heated to a boil and the alcoholic solution of the shellac is added with constant stirring. Next add the blue color, continuing to stir. Before this coating is applied to the steel, e. g., the spokes of a bicycle, the latter are first rubbed off with fine emery paper. The coat is put on with a soft rag. The quantity of pigment to be added is very small. By varying the quantity a paler or darker coloring of the steel can be produced.

«PAINTS FOR ROOFS AND ROOF PAPER:»

«Carbolineum.»—This German preparation is made in three colors.

I.—Pale.—Melt together in an iron kettle, over a naked fire, 30 parts of American rosin F and 150 parts of pale paraffine oil and stir in 10 parts of single rectified rosin oil.

II.—Dark.—Melt 100 parts of anthracene oil and 20 parts of American rosin F on a slow fire. Next stir in 2 parts of Para rubber solution (or solution of caoutchouc waste) and keep on boiling until all is dissolved. When this is done there should be still added 5 parts of crude concentrated carbolic acid and 5 parts of zinc chloride lye, 50° Bé., stirring until cool. The last-named admixture is not absolutely necessary, but highly advisable, owing to its extraordinary preservative and bactericidal properties.

III.—Colored.—For red, melt 100 parts of coal-tar oil, then stir in 50 parts of pale paraffine oil, and finally 75 parts of bole or iron minium, and pass through the paint mill. Although the addition of iron minium is very desirable, it is considerably more expensive. For gray, proceed as above, with the exception that metallic gray is used in place of the bole. For green, metallic green is employed. The colors are identical with those used in the manufacture of roof varnish. To increase the antiseptic properties of the colored carbolineum, any desired additions of phenol or zinc chloride solutions may be made, but the chief requirement in the case of colored carbolineum is good covering power of the coating.

«Paints for Roofs Covered with Tar Paper, for Roofing Paper, etc.»—

I.—Distilled coal tar 70 parts Heavy mineral oil (lubricating oil) 10 parts American rosin 20 parts

II.—Distilled coal tar 50 parts Trinidad asphalt 15 parts Mineral oil, containing paraffine 10 parts Dry clay, finely ground 25 parts

«Imitation Oil Paint.»—Schulz’s German patent paint is cheap, and claimed to be {498} durable, weatherproof, and glossy, like oil paint. The application consists of a ground coat, upon which the surface coat proper is applied after the former is dry. For the preparation of the grounding dissolve 1,000 parts, by weight, of Marseilles soap in 10,000 parts of boiling water and stir. In a separate vessel dissolve 2,000 parts of glue in 10,000 parts of boiling water, adding 17,500 parts of spirit of sal ammoniac. These two solutions are poured together and well stirred. Then dissolve 400 parts of chrome alum in 5,000 parts of water, and pour into the above mixture. To this mixture add 10,000 parts of pipe clay, stirring the whole well and tinting with earth colors, ocher, Vandyke brown, etc. The solid ingredients must be dissolved in boiling hot water, and sifted so as to obtain a finely divided ground color. This priming is applied in a warm state. The coating proper is put on the ground coat after it is dry, in about one-half to one hour. For this coat dissolve 2,000 parts of crystallized alum in 10,000 parts of boiling water and add to this liquid a solution of 2,000 parts of glue in 10,000 parts of water; in a special vessel prepare soapsuds of 1,000 parts of Marseilles soap in 12,000 parts of boiling water; dissolve 120 parts of chrome alum in 1,500 parts of boiling water, and mix the three solutions together with diligent stirring. This paint or liquid should also be put on hot, and assures a durable exterior paint.

«PAINTS, STAINS, ETC., FOR SHIPS.»

«Anti-Fouling Composition.»—Make an agglutinant by heating together

By weight White lead, ground in oil 2 parts Red lead, dry 1 part Raw linseed oil 14 parts

While hot stir in yellow ocher, kaolin, baked clay in powder, or any inert body, such as silica, barytes, gypsum, etc., to form a stiff dough, and, without allowing this compound to become cold (the vessel should not be removed from the source of heat), dilute with more or less manganese linoleate to the required consistency.

«Marine Paint to Resist Sea Water.»—First prepare the water-resisting agglutinant by heating together

Dry white lead, carbonate only 1 part Litharge 1 part Linseed oil (fluid measure) 14 parts

Heat these and stir until of the consistency of thick glue, and for every 36 parts, by weight, of this compound add 3 parts, by weight, of turpentine, and 1 part, by weight, of mastic varnish (mastic rosin dissolved in turpentine); reheat the whole, and for every 32 parts, by weight, stir in and mix the following:

Baked and powdered clay 4 parts Portland cement 16 parts Zinc white 1 part Red lead 1 part

After well mixing, dilute with more or less turpentine (not exceeding 25 per cent of the whole), or linoleate of manganese, the latter being preferable, as it has greater binding power. For colored paints use red oxide of iron or green oxide of chrome, but do not use chrome green or lead, as they will not stand the action of the sea water.

«Compositions for Ships’ Bottoms.»—

_Green._

Pale rosin 25 pounds Prepared mineral green 8 pounds D. L. zinc 13 pounds Boiled oil 2 pounds Mineral naphtha 1 gallon Petroleum spirit 1 1⁠/⁠2 gallons

_Prepared Mineral Green._

Dry levigated mineral green 28 pounds Turpentine 7 pounds Turpentine varnish 7 pounds Refined linseed oil 7 pounds

_Copper Color._

Pale rosin 25 pounds Light Italian ocher 15 pounds D. L. zinc 5 pounds Turkey red paint 1⁠/⁠2 pound Petroleum spirit 1 1⁠/⁠2 pounds Mineral naphtha 1 pound

_Pink._

Pale rosin 25 pounds D. L. zinc 16 pounds Deep vermilion 7 pounds Mineral naphtha 1 gallon Petroleum spirit 1 1⁠/⁠2 gallons

«PAINTS FOR WALLS OF CEMENT, PLASTER, HARD FINISH, ETC.»

«Coating for Bathrooms.»—As a rule cement plastering, as well as oil paint, suffices for the protection of walls and ceilings in bathrooms, but attention must be called to the destructive action of medicinal admixtures. For such rooms as well as for laboratories, an {499} application of Swedish wood tar, made into a flowing consistency with a little oil of turpentine and put on hot, has been found very excellent. It is of advantage previously to warm the wall slightly. To the second coat add some wax. A very durable coating is obtained, which looks so pleasing that it is only necessary to draw some stripes with a darker paint so as to divide the surface into fields.

«Cement, to Paint Over Fresh.»—The wall should be washed with dilute sulphuric acid several days before painting. This will change the surplus caustic lime to sulphate of lime or gypsum. The acid should be about one-half chamber acid and one-half water. This should be repeated before painting, and a coat of raw linseed oil flowed on freely should be given for the first coat. While this cannot be always guaranteed as effectual for making the paint hold, it is the best method our correspondent has heard of for the purpose, and is worth trying when it is absolutely necessary to paint over fresh cement.

«Damp Walls, Coating for.»—Thirty parts of tin are dissolved in 40 parts of hydrochloric acid, and 30 parts of sal ammoniac are added. A powder composed of freestone, 50 parts; zinc oxide, 20 parts; pounded glass, 15 parts; powdered marble, 10 parts; and calcined magnesia, 5 parts, is prepared, and made into a paste with the liquid above mentioned. Coloring matter may be added. The composition may be used as a damp-proof coating for walls, or for repairing stonework, or for molding statues or ornaments.

«Facade Paint.»—For this zinc oxide is especially adapted, prepared with size or casein. Any desired earth colors may also be added. The surfaces are coated 3 times with this mass. After the third application is dry, put on a single coating of zinc chloride solution of 30° Bé. to which 3 per cent borax is added.

This coating is very solid, can be washed, and is not injured by hydrogen sulphide.

«Hard-Finished Walls.»—The treatment for hard-finished walls which are to be painted in flat colors is to prime with a thin coat of lead and oil well brushed into the wall. Next put on a thin coat of glue size; next a coat mixed with 1⁠/⁠3 oil and 2⁠/⁠3 turpentine; next a coat of flat paint mixed with turpentine. If you use any dry pigment mix it stiff in oil and thin with turps. If in either case the paint dries too fast, and is liable to show laps, put a little glycerine in, to retard the drying.

«PAINTS, WATERPROOF AND WEATHERPROOF:»

See also Fireproof Paint.

The following are claimed to be both waterproof and weatherproof:

I.—In 50 parts, by weight, of spirit of 96 per cent, dissolve 16 parts, by weight, of shellac, orange, finely powdered; 3 parts, by weight, of silver lake, finely powdered; and 0.6 parts, by weight, of gamboge, finely powdered. This paint may be employed without admixture of any siccative, and is excellently adapted for painting objects which are exposed to the inclemencies of the weather, as it is perfectly weatherproof.

II.—Mix glue water with zinc oxide (zinc white) and paint the respective object with this mixture. When this is dry (after about 2 hours) it is followed up with a coating of glue water and zinc chloride in a highly diluted state. Zinc oxide enters into a chemical combination with zinc chloride, which acquires the hardness of glass and a mirror-like bright surface. Any desired colors can be prepared with the glue water (size) and are practically imperishable. This zinc coating is very durable, dries quickly, and is 50 per cent cheaper than oil paint.

«Water- and Acid-Resisting Paint.»—Caoutchouc is melted with colophony at a low temperature, after the caoutchouc has been dried in a drying closet (stove) at 158° to 176° F., until no more considerable increase in weight is perceptible, while the colophony has completely lost its moisture by repeated melting. The raw products thus prepared will readily melt upon slight heating. To the melted colophony and caoutchouc add in a hot liquid state zinc white or any similar pigment. Thin with a varnish consisting of 50 parts of perfectly anhydrous colophony, 40 parts of absolute alcohol, and 40 parts of benzine. The whole syrupy mass is worked through in a paint mill to obtain a uniform product, at which operation more or less colophony varnish is added according to the desired consistency.

«Water- and Air-Proof Paint.»—An air-proof and waterproof paint, the subject of a recent French patent, is a compound of 30 parts, by weight, acetone; 100 parts acetic ether; 50 parts sulphuric ether; 100 parts camphor; 50 parts gum lac; 200 parts cotton; 100 parts paper {500} (dissolved in sulphuric acid); 100 parts mastic in drops. These proportions may fluctuate according to need. The paper is reduced well and dissolved without heat with sufficient sulphuric ether; the cotton is dissolved in the acetone and the whole is mixed together with the other ingredients and stirred well. The application is performed as with any other varnish. The coating is said not to crack or shrink and to be particularly useful as a protection against moisture for all stuffs.

«PAINTS FOR WOOD:»

See also Wood.

«Floor Coating.»—A new paint for floors, especially those of soft wood: Mix together 2.2 pounds joiners’ glue; a little over 1 ounce powdered bichromate of potash; 3 1⁠/⁠2 ounces aniline brown; and 10 1⁠/⁠2 quarts water in a tin vessel. After 6 hours have elapsed (when the glue is completely soaked), heat gradually to the boiling point. The coating becomes perfectly water-tight after 2 or 3 days; it is not opaque, as the earthy body is lacking. The glue causes the wood fibers to be firmly united. It becomes insoluble by the addition of bichromate of potash, under the influence of light. Without this admixture a simple glue coat has formerly not been found satisfactory, as it dissolves if cleaned with water.

«Durable House Paint.»—I.—New houses should be primed once with pure linseed oil, then painted with a thin paint from white lead and chalk, and thus gradually covered. The last coat is prepared of well-boiled varnish, white lead, and chalk. The chalk has the mission to moderate the saponification of the linseed oil by the white lead. Mixing colors such as ocher and black, which take up plenty of oil, materially assist in producing a durable covering.

II.—Prime with zinc white and let this be succeeded by a coating with zinc chloride in glue water (size). The zinc oxide forms with the zinc chloride an oxy-chloride of great hardness and glossy surface. By admixture of pigments any desired shade may be produced. The zinc coating is indestructible, dries quickly, does not peel, is free from the smell of fresh oil paint, and more than 5 per cent cheaper.

«Ivory Coating for Smooth, Light Wood.»—In order to cover the articles, which may be flat or round, with this coating, they must first be polished quite smooth and clean; then they are coated with thin, hot, white glue. When the coat is thoroughly dry, the glue is rubbed off again with fine glass paper. The mass is prepared as follows: Take 3 pounds (more or less, according to the number of articles) of the purest and best collodion; grind upon a clean grinding stone twice the quantity that can be taken up with the point of a knife of Krems white, with enough good pale linseed oil as is necessary to grind the white smooth and fine. Take a clean bottle, into which one-half of the collodion is poured; to this add the ground white, which can be removed clean from the stone by means of a good spatula and put in the bottle. Add about 100 drops of linseed oil, and shake the mass till it looks like milk.

Now painting with this milky substance may be commenced, using a fine hair pencil of excellent quality. The pencil is not dipped in the large bottle; but a glass is kept at hand with an opening of about 1 inch, so as to be able to immerse the pencil quickly. The substance is not flowing like the alcohol lacquers, for which reason it may be put on thick, for the ether, chiefly constituting the mass, evaporates at once and leaves but a very thin film which becomes noticeable only after about 10 such applications have been made. Shake the bottle well each time before filling the small glass, as the heavy Krems white is very apt to sink to the bottom of the bottle. If it is observed that the substance becomes too thick, which may easily occur on account of the evaporation, a part of the remaining ether is added, to which in turn 30 to 40 drops of oil are added, shaking it till the oil appears to be completely dissolved.

The operator must put on the mass in quick succession and rather thick. After about 10 coats have been applied the work is allowed to rest several hours; then 3 or 4 coats of pure collodion, to which likewise several drops of oil have been added, are given. Another pause of several hours having been allowed to intervene, application of the mass is once more begun.

When it is noticed that a layer of the thickness of paper has formed, the articles, after drying thoroughly, should be softly rubbed off with very fine glass paper, after which they require to be wiped off well with a clean linen rag, so that no dust remains. Then coating is continued till the work seems serviceable.

A few applications of pure collodion should be made, and when this has become perfectly hard, after a few hours, it can be rubbed down with a rag, {501} tripoli, and oil, and polished by hand, like horn or ivory. This work can be done only in a room which is entirely free from dust. The greatest cleanliness must be observed.

«MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES, PAINTS, ETC.:»

«Bathtub Paint.»—Take white keg lead, tint to any desired color and then add, say, 1⁠/⁠8 boiled oil (pure linseed) to 7⁠/⁠8 hard drying durable body varnish. Clean the surface of the tub thoroughly before applying the paint. Benzine or lime wash are good cleaning agents. Coat up until a satisfactorily strong, pure color is reached. This will give good gloss and will also wear durably.

«Coating for Name Plates.»—A durable coating for name plates in nurseries is produced as follows: Take a woolen rag, saturate it with joiners’ polish, lay it into a linen one, and rub the wooden surface with this for some time. Rub down with sandpaper and it can be written on almost like paper. When all is dry, coat with dammar lacquer for better protection. If the wood is to receive a color it is placed in the woolen rag before rubbing down, in this case chrome yellow.

«To Keep Flies from Fresh Paint.»—For the purpose of keeping flies and other insects away from freshly painted surfaces mix a little bay oil (laurel oil) with the oil paint, or place a receptacle containing same in the vicinity of the painted objects. The pungent odor keeps off the flies.

«Heat-Indicating Paint.»—A heat-indicating paint composed of a double iodide of copper and mercury was first discovered years ago by a German physicist. At ordinary temperatures the paint is red, but when heated to 206° F. it turns black. Paper painted with this composition and warmed at a stove exhibits the change in a few seconds. A yellow double iodide of silver and mercury is even more sensitive to heat, changing from yellow to dark red.

«To Keep Liquid Paint in Workable Condition.»—To prevent liquid paint which, for convenience sake, is kept in small quantities and flat receptacles, from evaporating and drying, give the vessels such a shape that they can be placed one on top of the other without danger of falling over, and provide the under side with a porous mass—felt or very porous clay, etc.—which, if moistened, will retain the water for a long time. Thus, in placing the dishes one on top of the other, a moist atmosphere is created around them, which will inhibit evaporation and drying of the paint. A similar idea consists in producing covers with a tight outside and porous inside, for the purpose of covering up, during intermission in the work, clay models and like objects which it is desired to keep soft. In order to avoid the formation of fungous growth on the constantly wet bottom, it may be saturated with non-volatile disinfectants, or with volatile ones if their vapors are calculated to act upon the objects kept underneath the cover. If the cover is used to cover up oil paints, it is moistened on the inside with volatile oil, such as oil of turpentine, oil of lavender, or with alcohol.

«Peeling of Paints.»—For the prevention of peeling of new coatings on old oil paintings or lakes, the latter should be rubbed with roughly ground pumice stone, wet by means of felt rags, and to the first new coat there should be added fine spirit in the proportion of about 1⁠/⁠10 of the thinning necessary for stirring (turpentine, oil, etc.). This paint dries well and has given good results, even in the most difficult cases. The subsequent coatings are put on with the customary paint. Fat oil glazes for graining are likewise mixed with spirit, whereby the cracking of the varnish coating is usually entirely obviated.

«Polychroming of Figures.»—This paint consists of white wax, 1 part, and powdered mastic, 1 part, melted together upon the water bath and mixed with rectified turpentine. The colors to be used are first ground stiffly in turpentine on the grinding slab, and worked into consistency with the above solution.

«Priming Coat for Water Spots.»—A very simple way to remove rain spots, or such caused by water soaking through ceilings, has been employed with good results. Take unslaked white lime, dilute with alcohol, and paint the spots with it. When the spots are dry—which ensues quickly, as the alcohol evaporates and the lime forms a sort of insulating layer—one can proceed painting with size color, and the spots will not show through again.

PAINT FOR PROTECTING CEMENT AGAINST ACID: See Acid-Proofing.

PAINT, GREASE: See Cosmetics. {502}

PAINT REMOVERS: See Cleaning Compounds.

PALLADIUM ALLOYS: See Alloys.

PALLADIUMIZING: See Plating.

«PALMS, THEIR CARE.»

Instead of washing the leaves of palms with water, many florists employ a mixture of milk and water, the object being to prevent the formation of disfiguring brown stains.

«Paper»

«Paper Pads» (see also Adhesives, under Glue).

I.—Glue 3 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Glycerine 8 ounces Water, a sufficient quantity.

Pour upon the glue more than enough water to cover it and let stand for several hours, then decant the greater portion of the water; apply heat until the glue is dissolved, and add the glycerine. If the mixture is too thick, add more water.

II.—Glue 6 ounces Alum 30 grains Acetic acid 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Alcohol 1 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Water 6 1⁠/⁠2 ounces

Mix all but the alcohol, digest on a water bath till the glue is dissolved, allow to cool, and add the alcohol.