Part 88

To avoid such mishaps the careful operator will take the parts asunder in the following order:

1. Remove the comb.

2. Take the apparatus from the box and completely disarm the spring.

3. Remove the barrel.

4. Remove the escapement.

5. Remove the cylinder.

The barrel and the wheels are cleaned like those of a watch.

The cylinder should be handled carefully. The holes should be well cleaned. Oil should be put only on the pivots, especially none on the part of the arbor to which the cylinder is attached. It is the first piece to be replaced, care being taken to see that the arbor turns freely, but without play, between the bridges. When it is in position, put in the escapement, then the barrel, and finally the comb.

The comb, representing the musical part of a simple box, cannot receive too much care. Before replacing it examine the springs closely, and in supplying the ones that are lacking, take for the model of size and form those resembling them the most. If the parts have been put together properly, then, as soon as the comb is screwed in its place, these should be found in good working order: the _levée_ (lift)—that is, that the pins do not lift the teeth too much or too little; the _tombée_ (fall)—that is, that the chords, the bass, the medium, and the treble, fall together; and the _visée_ (pointing)—that the pins catch at the center of the ends of the teeth.

MUSLIN, PAINTING ON: See Painting.

«MUSTACHE FIXING FLUID.»

Balsam of Tolu 1 part Rectified spirit 3 parts Jockey club 1 part

Dissolve the balsam in the liquids. Apply a few drops to the mustache with a brush, then twist into the desired shape.

«MUSTARD PAPER.»

I.—India rubber 1 part Benzol 49 parts Black mustard in powder, a sufficiency.

Dissolve the India rubber in the benzol, then stir in the mustard until the mixture is of a suitable consistence for spreading. It was further recommended to remove the fixed oil from the mustard by percolation with benzol. Mustard paper thus made is of good quality, very active, and keeps well. {481}

II.—Black and white mustard, in No. 60 powder, deprived of fixed oil 1 part Benzol solution of India rubber (1 in 40) 4 parts

Mix to a smooth mass, and spread the same over one side of a suitable paper by means of a plaster-spreading machine, or passing the paper over the mass contained in a suitable shallow vessel. Expose to warm air for a short time to dry. Preserve the dry paper in well-closed boxes. It may be useful to know that mustard paper, after spreading, should not be long exposed to light and air. By so doing not only does the mustard bleach but the rubber soon perishes. Moreover, mustard paper is hygroscopic, so that in a moist atmosphere it soon loses its virtue. It is, therefore, highly important that mustard paper should be rapidly dried in a warm atmosphere with free ventilation, then at once stored in well-closed packets. Thus prepared they keep well and remain active for many years.

MUSTARDS: See Condiments.

MYRRH ASTRINGENT: See Dentifrices.

«NAIL, INGROWING.»

Copious applications of dried powdered alum are sufficient to cure every case of ingrowing nail in about 5 days. The applications are not painful in the least, and the destruction of the pathologic tissue results in the formation of a hard, resistant, and non-sensitive bed for the nail, a perfect cure for the ingrowing tendency. Apply a fomentation of soap and water for 24 hours beforehand and then pour the alum into the space between the nail and its bed, tamponing with cotton to keep the alum in place, and repeating the application daily. The suppuration rapidly dries up, and pain and discomfort are relieved almost at once.

NAIL POLISHES: See Cosmetics.

NAPOLEON CORDIAL: See Wines and Liquors.

NAPHTHOL SOAP: See Soap.

«NEATSFOOT OIL.»

Crude neatsfoot oil 5,000 parts Alcohol, 90 per cent 2,500 parts Tannin 5 parts

Place in a clearing flask, agitate vigorously and allow to stand for 8 days in a warm room with daily repetition of the shaking. Then draw off the spirit of wine on top, rinse again with 1,000 parts of spirit of wine (90 per cent) and place the oil in a temperature of about 53 1⁠/⁠2° F. Allow to stand in this temperature for at least 6 weeks, protected from the light, and then filter.

NEEDLES, ANTI-RUST PAPER FOR: See Rust Preventives.

NEGATIVES, HOW TO USE SPOILED: See Photography.

NERVE PASTE: See also Dental Cements, under Cements.

Arsenious acid 4 parts Morphine sulphate 2 parts Clove oil 1 part Creosote, quantity sufficient to make a paste.

After the nerve is destroyed the following paste is to be put in the cavity:

Alum 1 part Thymol 1 part Zinc oxide 1 part Glycerine 1 part

NERVINE OINTMENT: See Ointments.

NESSELRODE PUDDING: See Ice Creams.

NETS: See Cordage.

«NICKEL-TESTING.»

Pure nickel will remain nearly white, while “patent nickel,” or nickel-copper will not retain its primitive brilliancy, but soon becomes slightly oxidized and grayish in color. The magnet furnishes a good means of testing. The unadulterated nickel is distinctly sensitive to magnetism, while that much alloyed is destitute of this property.

NICKEL ALLOYS: See Alloys.

NICKEL, TO REMOVE RUST FROM: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

NICKEL-PLATING: See Plating.

NICKEL STEEL: See Steel.

NICKELING, TEST FOR: See Plating. {482}

NIELLO: See Steel.

NITROGLYCERINE: See Explosives.

NOYAUX LIQUEUR: See Wines and Liquors.

NUT CANDY STICKS: See Confectionery.

NUTMEG CORDIAL: See Wines and Liquors.

NUTMEG ESSENCE: See Essences and Extracts.

OAK: See Wood.

ODONTER: See Dentifrices.

«Oils»

«Clock Oil.»—Put 2,000 parts, by weight, of virgin oil in a decanting vessel, add a solution of 40 parts of ether tannin in 400 parts of water and shake until completely emulsified. Let stand for 8 days, with frequent shaking; next, add 100 parts of talcum and, when this has also been well shaken, 1,600 parts of water. Allow to settle for 24 hours, and then run off the lower water layer, repeating the washing as long as the wash water still shows a coloration with ferric chloride. Pour the contents of the decanting vessel into an evaporating dish; then add 200 parts of thoroughly dried and finely ground cooking salt; let stand for 24 hours and filter through paper. The clock oil is now ready, and should be filled in brown glass bottles, holding 20 to 25 parts (about 1 ounce), which must be corked up well and kept at a cool temperature.

«COD-LIVER OIL:»

«Aromatic Cod-Liver Oil.»—

Coumarin 0.01 parts Saccharine 0.50 parts Vanillin 0.10 parts Alcohol, absolute 5.40 parts Oil of lemon 5.00 parts Oil of peppermint 1.00 part Oil of neroli 1.00 part Cod-liver oil to make 1,000 parts

«Deodorized Cod-Liver Oil.»—Mix 400 parts of cod-liver oil with 20 parts of ground coffee and 10 parts of bone black, warm the mixture in an open vessel to 140° F., let it stand 5 days, shaking occasionally, and strain through linen. The oil acquires the taste of coffee.

«Cod-Liver Oil Emulsions.»—

I.—Calcium hypophosphite 80 grains Sodium hypophosphite 120 grains Sodium chloride 60 grains Gum acacia, in powder 2 ounces Elixir of glucoside 20 minims Essential oil of almonds 15 minims Glycerine 2 fluidounces Cod-liver oil 8 fluidounces Distilled water, a sufficient quantity to produce 16 fluidounces.

II.—Mix 190 parts of powdered sugar with 5 parts of acacia and 500 parts of tragacanth in a mortar. Mix in a large bottle and shake thoroughly together 500 parts of cod-liver oil and 200 parts of a cold infusion of coffee. Gradually add a part of this mixture to the powder in the mortar and triturate until emulsified. To the remaining liquid mixture add 100 parts of rum, then gradually incorporate with the contents of the mortar by trituration.

«Extracting Oil from Cottonseed.»—Claim is made for a process of extraction, in an English patent, in which the seeds are placed in a rotable vessel mounted on a hollow shaft divided into compartments by means of a partition. The solvent is introduced at one end of this shaft and passes into the vessel, which is then made to rotate. After the extraction the bulk of the solvent and the extracted oil pass away through an exit pipe, and steam is then introduced through the same opening as the solvent, in order to cook the seeds and expel the residual solvent. The steam and the vapors pass through perforations in a scraper fixed to the shaft and thence through connected pipes into the other compartment of the shaft, the end of which is attached to a condenser.

«Silver Nitrate Test for Cottonseed Oil.»—Investigations of Charabout and March throw some light on the value of this test in presence of olive oil. The free-fat acids obtained from cottonseed oil by saponification were treated in accordance with the method of Milliau on a water bath with a 3 per cent solution of silver nitrate, and the brown precipitate thus formed subjected to a chemical examination. It was found to consist chiefly of a brown silver salt composed of a fat acid melting at 52° F., and {483} congealing at 120° to 122° F., and of sulphide of silver. Olive oil, which contains a sulphur compound of an analogous composition, is also capable of forming a more or less distinct precipitate of a dark colored silver sulphide with nitrate of silver. It is important to bear this fact in mind when examining olive oil for cottonseed oil.

«Floral Hair Oil.»—

White vaseline 5,000 parts Floricin, pure 800 parts Linalool rosé 60 parts Terpineol 50 parts Aubepine (hawthorne), liquid 12 parts

«Floral Hair Pomade.»—

White ceresine 250 parts Floricin, pure 1,600 parts Vanillin 3 parts Geranium oil 5 parts Isoeugenol 4 parts

«Floricin Brilliantine.»—

Floricin oil 2,100 parts White ceresine 250 parts Ylang-ylang oil 2 parts Kananga oil 5 parts Oil of rose, artificial 1 part Cheirantia 5 parts

«Solid Linseed Oil.»—Cements for the manufacture of linoleum and other similar substances are composed to a large extent of linseed oil, oxidized or polymerized until it has become solid. The old process of preparing this solid oil is tedious, costly, and invites danger from fire. It consists in running linseed oil over sheets of thin cloth hung from the top of a high building. The thin layer of oil upon the cloth dries, and then a second layer is obtained in the same way. This is continued until a thick skin of solid oil is formed on either side of the cloth. A new method of solidifying linseed oil is by means of alkalies. The drying oils, when heated with basic substances such as the alkalies, polymerize and become solid. Hertkorn makes use of the oxides of the alkaline earths, or their salts with weak acids, such as their soaps. When chalk or lime is added to the oil during the process of oxidation, either during the liquid or the plastic stage, it forms a calcium soap, and causes polymerization to set in in the partially oxidized oil. Similarly, if caustic soda or caustic potash be added, the action is not caused by them in the free state, but by the soaps which they form. Oxidized oil is more readily saponified than raw oil, and the greater the oxidation, the more readily does saponification take place. Lime soaps are not soluble in water, whereas soda and potash soaps are. Consequently a cement made with the latter, if exposed to the weather, will be acted upon by rain and moisture, owing to the soluble soap contained in it, while a cement made with lime will not be acted upon. It is suggested that the action of the bases on linseed oil is simply due to their neutralization of the free acid. The acidity of linseed oil increases as it becomes oxidized. When the basic matter is added part of the free acid is neutralized, and polymerization sets in. The presence of a large amount of free acid must therefore hinder polymerization. From 5 to 10 per cent of chalk or lime is considered to be the amount which gives the best result in practice.

«Decolorizing or Bleaching Linseed Oil.»—Linseed oil may be bleached by the aid of chemical bodies, the process of oxidizing or bleaching being best performed by means of peroxide of hydrogen. For this purpose, the linseed oil to be bleached is mixed with 5 per cent peroxide of hydrogen in a tin or glass bottle, and the mixture is shaken repeatedly. After a few days have elapsed the linseed oil is entirely bleached and clarified, so that it can be poured off from the peroxide of hydrogen, which has been reduced to oxide of hydrogen, i. e., water, by the process of oxidation. The use of another oxidizing medium, such as chloride of lime and hydrochloric acid or bichromate of calcium and sulphuric acid, etc., cannot be recommended to the layman, as the operation requires more care and is not without danger. If there is no hurry about the preparation of bleached linseed oil, sun bleaching seems to be the most recommendable method. For this only a glass bottle is required, or, better still, a flat glass dish, of any shape, which can be covered with a protruding piece of glass. For the admission of air, lay some sticks of wood over the dish and the glass on top. The thinner the layer of linseed oil, the quicker will be the oxidation process. It is, of course, necessary to place the vessel in such a manner that it is exposed to the rays of the sun for many hours daily.

«Linseed Oil for Varnish-Making.»—Heat in a copper vessel 50 gallons Baltic oil to 280° F., add 2 1⁠/⁠2 pounds calcined white vitriol, and stir well together. Keep the oil at the above temperature for half an hour, then draw the fire, and in 24 hours decant the clear oil. It should stand for at least 4 weeks. {484}

«Refining Linseed Oil.»—Put 236 gallons of oil into a copper boiler, pour in 6 pounds of oil of vitriol, and stir them together for 3 hours, then add 6 pounds fuller’s earth well mixed with 14 pounds hot lime, and stir for 3 hours. The oil must be put in a copper vessel with an equal quantity of water. Now boil for 3 hours, then extinguish the fire. When cold draw off the water. Let the mixture settle for a few weeks.

«MINERAL OIL:»

See also Petroleum.

«Production of Consistent Mineral Oils.»—

By weight

I.—Mineral oil 100 parts Linseed oil 25 parts Ground nut oil 25 parts Lime 10 parts

II.—Mineral oil 100 parts Rosin oil 100 parts Rape seed oil 50 parts Linseed oil 75 parts Lime 25 parts

«Mixing Castor Oil with Mineral Oils.»—Castor oil is heated for 6 hours in an autoclave at a temperature of 500° to 575° F., and under a pressure of 4 to 6 atmospheres. When cold the resulting product mixes in all proportions with mineral oils.

«BLEACHING OILS:»

«Linseed Oil or Poppy Oil.»—Agitate in a glass balloon 25,000 parts, by weight, of oil with a solution of 50 parts, by weight, potassium permanganate in 1,250 parts, by volume, of water. Let stand for 24 hours at a gentle warmth and add 75 parts, by weight, of powdered sodium sulphite. Agitate strongly and add 100 parts, by weight, of hydrochloric acid and again agitate. Let stand until decolorization takes place, then wash the oil with a sufficiency of water, carrying in suspension chalk, finely powdered, until the liquid no longer has an acid reaction. Finally filter off over anhydrous sodium sulphate.

«Boiled Oil.»—The following is especially adapted for zinc painting, but will also answer for any paint: Mix 1 part binoxide of manganese, in coarse powder, but not dusty, with 10 parts nut or linseed oil. Keep it gently heated and frequently stirred for about 30 hours, or until the oil begins to turn reddish.

«British Oil.»—

I.—Oil of turpentine 40 parts Barbadoes pitch 26 parts Oil of rosemary 1 part Oil of origanum 1 part

II.—Oil of turpentine 2 parts Rape oil 20 parts Spirit of tar 2 parts Alkanet root, quantity sufficient.

Macerate the alkanet root in the rape oil until the latter is colored deep red; then strain off and add the other ingredients.

«Decolorizing and Deodorizing Oils.»—I.—One may partially or completely deodorize and decolorize rank fish and other oils by sending a current of hot air or of steam through them, after having heated them from 175° to 200° F. To decolorize palm oil pass through it a current of steam under pressure corresponding to a temperature of 230° F., agitating the oil constantly. The vapor is then passed through leaden tuyeres of about 2 inches diameter, 10 hours being sufficient for deodorizing 4 tons of oil.

II.—Another method that may be applied to almost all kinds of fats and oils with excellent results is the following: Melt say 112 parts, by weight, of palm oil in a boiler. When the mass is entirely liquefied add to it a solution of calcium chloride, made by dissolving 7 parts, by weight, of lime chloride for every 84 parts, by weight, of oil in water, and mix intimately. After cooling, the mass hardens and is cut into small bits and exposed to the air for a few weeks. After this exposure the material is reassembled in a boiler of iron, jacketed on the inside with lead; a quantity of sulphuric acid diluted to 5 per cent, equal in amount to the lime chloride previously used, is added, and heat is applied until the oil melts and separates from the other substances. It is then left to cool off and solidify.

«Decomposition of Oils, Fats, etc.»—In many of the processes at present in use, whereby oils and fats are decomposed by steam at a high pressure, the time during which the oil or fat has to be exposed to high pressure and temperature has the effect of considerably darkening the resulting product. Hannig’s process claims to shorten the time required, by bringing the steam and oil into more intimate contact. The oil to be treated is projected in fine streams into the chamber containing steam at 8 to 10 atmospheres pressure. The streams of oil are projected with sufficient force to cause them to strike against the walls of the chamber, and they are thus broken up into minute globules which mix intimately with the steam. In this way the most satisfactory conditions for the decomposition of the oil are obtained. {485}

«Driffield Oils.»—

Barbadoes tar 1 ounce Linseed oil 16 ounces Oil turpentine 3 ounces Oil vitriol 1⁠/⁠2 ounce

Add the oil of vitriol to the other ingredients very gradually, with constant stirring.

«Drying Oils.»—To dry oils for varnishes, paintings, etc., the most economical means is to boil them with shot, to leave them for some time in contact with shot, or else to boil them with litharge. Another method consists in boiling the oils with equal parts of lead, tin, and sulphate of zinc in the ratio of 1⁠/⁠10 part (weight) of the united metals to 1 part of oil to be treated. These metals must be granulated, which is easily accomplished by melting them separately and putting them in cold water. They will be found at the bottom of the water in the shape of small balls. It is in this manner, by the way, that shot is produced.

«Dust-Laying Oil.»—A process has been patented for rendering mineral oils miscible in all proportions of water. The method consists of forming an intimate mixture of the oil with a soap which is soluble in water. The most simple method is as follows: The oil is placed in a tank provided with an agitator. The latter is set in motion and the fatty oil or free fatty acid from which the soap is to be formed is added, and mixed intimately with the mineral oil. When the mixture is seen to be thoroughly homogeneous, the alkali, in solution in water, is added little by little and the stirring continued until a thorough emulsion is obtained, of which the constituents do not separate, even after prolonged standing at ordinary temperatures. The agitation may be produced either by a mechanical apparatus or by forcing air in under pressure. As a rule, the operation can be carried out in the cold, but in certain cases the solution of the fatty body and its saponification requires the application of moderate heat. This may be obtained by using either a steam-jacketed pan, or by having the steam coil within the pan, or live steam may be blown through the mixture, serving at the same time both as a heating and stirring agent. Any fatty matter or fatty acid suitable for soap-making may be used, and the base may be any one capable of forming a soluble soap, most commonly the alkaline hydroxides, caustic soda, and caustic potash, as also ammonia. The raw materials are chosen according to the use to which the finished product is to be applied. A good formula, suitable for preparing an oily liquid for watering dusty roads, is as follows:

By weight

Heavy mineral oil 75 parts Commercial olein 2 parts Commercial ammonia 1.5 parts Water 21.5 parts

«Floor Oils.»—

I.—Neatsfoot oil 1 part Cottonseed oil 1 part Petroleum oil 1 part

II.—Beeswax 8 parts Water 56 parts Potassium carbonate 4 parts

Dissolve the potash in 12 parts of water; heat together the wax and the remaining water till the wax is liquefied; then mix the two and boil together until a perfect emulsion is effected. Color, if desired, with a solution of annatto.

«Ground-Laying Oil for Ceramics.»—Boil together until thoroughly incorporated 1 pint of linseed oil, 1 pint of dissolved gum mastic, 1⁠/⁠2 ounce of red lead, 1⁠/⁠2 ounce of rosin. In using mix with Venice turpentine.

«Oil Suitable for Use with Gold.»—Heat and incorporate linseed oil, 1 quart; rape oil, 1 pint; Canadian balsam, 3 pints; rectified spirits of tar, 1 quart.

«Wool Oil.»—These are usually produced by the distillation in retorts of Yorkshire grease and other greases. The distilled oil is tested for quality, and is brought down to 70 per cent or 50 per cent grades by the addition of a suitable quantity of mineral oil. The lower the quality of the grease used the lower is the grade of the resulting wool oil.

OIL, CASTOR: See Castor Oil.

OIL FOR FORMING A BEAD ON LIQUORS: See Wines and Liquors.

OILS FOR HARNESS: See Leather.

OILS (EDIBLE), TESTS FOR: See Foods.

OIL, HOW TO POUR OUT: See Castor Oil.

OIL, LUBRICATING: See Lubricants. {486}

OILS, PURIFICATION OF: See Fats.

OILCLOTH: See Linoleum.

OILCLOTH ADHESIVES: See Adhesives.

OILCLOTH VARNISHES: See Varnishes.

OILING FIBERS AND FABRICS: See Waterproofing.

OILSKINS: See Waterproofing.

OIL REMOVERS: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

OIL, SOLIDIFIED: See Lubricants.

«Ointments»

«Arnica Salve.»—

Solid extract of arnica 2 parts Rosin ointment 16 parts Petrolatum 4 parts Sultanas 16 parts Fine cut tobacco 1 part

Boil the raisins and the tobacco in 40 ounces of water until exhausted, express the liquid, and evaporate down to 8 ounces. Soften the arnica extract in a little hot water and mix in the liquid. Melt the rosin ointment and petrolatum together, and add the liquid to the melted mass and incorporate thoroughly.

«Barbers’ Itch.»—