Part 82

«Bronze Leather.»—All sorts of skins—sheepskins, goatskins, coltskins, and light calfskins—are adapted for the preparation of bronze leather. In this preparation the advantage lies not only in the use of the faultless skins, but scarified skins and those of inferior quality may also be employed. The dressing of the previously tanned skin must be carried out with the greatest care, to prevent the appearance of spots and other faults. After tanning, the pelts are well washed, scraped, and dried. Then they are bleached. For coloring, it is customary to employ methyl violet which has previously been dissolved in hot water, taking 100 parts, by weight, of the aniline color to 8,000 parts, by weight, of water. If in the leather-dressing establishment a line of steam piping be convenient, it is advisable to boil up all the coloring dyes, rather than simply to dissolve them; for in this way complete solution is effected. Where steam is used no special appliance is required for boiling up the dyes, for this may take place without inconvenience in the separate dye vats. A length of steam hose and a brass nozzle with a valve is all that is needed. It may be as well to add here that the violet color for dyeing may be made cheaper than as above described. To 3,000 parts, by weight, of pretty strong logwood decoction add 50 parts, by weight, of alum and 100 parts, by weight, of methyl violet. This compound is almost as strong as the pure violet solution, and instead of 8,000 parts, by weight, we now have 30,000 parts, by weight, of color.

The color is applied and well worked in with a stiff brush, and the skins allowed to stand for a short time, sufficient to allow the dye to penetrate the pores, when it is fulled. As for the shade of the bronze, it may be made reddish, bluish, or brownish, according to taste.

For a reddish or brownish ground the skins are simply fulled in warm water, planished, fulled again, and then dyed. According to the color desired, the skins are treated with cotton blue and methyl violet R, whereupon the application of the bronze follows.

The bronze is dissolved in alcohol, and it is usual to take 200 parts, by weight, of bronze to 1,000 of alcohol. By means of this mixture the peculiar component parts of the bronze are dissolved. For a fundamental or thorough {448} solution a fortnight is required. All bronze mixtures are to be well shaken or agitated before using. Skins may be bronzed, however, without the use of the bronze colors, for it is well known that all the aniline dyes present a bronze appearance when highly concentrated, and this is particularly the case with the violet and red dyes. If, therefore, the violet be applied in very strong solutions, the effect will be much the same as when the regular bronze color is employed.

Bronze color on a brown ground is the most beautiful of all, and is used to the greatest advantage when it is desirable to cover up defects. Instead of warm clear water in such a case, use a decoction of logwood to which a small quantity of alum has been added, and thus, during the fulling, impart to the skins a proper basic tint, which may, by the application of a little violet or bronze color, be converted into a most brilliant bronze. By no means is it to be forgotten that too much coloring matter will never produce the desired results, for here, as with the other colors, too much will bring out a greenish tint, nor will the gloss turn out so beautiful and clear. Next rinse the skins well in clean water, and air them, after which they may be dried with artificial heat. Ordinary as well as damaged skins which are not suitable for chevreaux (kid) and which it is desirable to provide with a very high polish, in order the more readily to conceal the defects in the grain, and other imperfections, are, after the drying, coated with a mixture, compounded according to the following simple formula: Stir well 1 pint of ox blood and 1 pint of unboiled milk in 10 quarts of water, and with a soft sponge apply this to the surface of the skin. The blood has no damaging effect upon the color. Skins thus moistened must not be laid one upon another, but must be placed separately in a thoroughly well-warmed chamber to dry. When dry they are glossed, and may then be pressed into shagreen or pebbled. The thin light goatskins are worked into kid or chevreaux. Properly speaking, they are only imitation chevreaux (kid), for although they are truly goatskins, under the term chevreaux one understands only such skins as have been cured in alum and treated with albumen and flour.

After drying, these skins are drawn over the perching stick with the round knife, then glossed, stretched, glossed again, and finally vigorously brushed upon the flesh side with a stiff brush. The brushing should be done preferably by hand, for the brushing machines commonly pull the skins out of all shape. Brushing is intended only to give the flesh side more of a flaky appearance.

During the second glossing care must be taken that the pressure is light, for the object is merely to bring the skin back into its proper shape, lost in the stretching; the glossing proper should have been accomplished during the first operation.

«Cracked Leather.»—The badly cracked and fissured carriage surface greets the painter on every hand. The following is the recipe for filling up and facing over such a surface: Finest pumice stone, 6 parts; lampblack (in bulk), 1 part; common roughstuff filler, 3 parts. Mix to stiff paste in good coach japan, 5 parts; hard drying rubbing varnish, 1 part. Thin to a brushing consistency with turpentine, and apply 1 coat per day. Put on 2 coats of this filler and then 2 coats of ordinary roughstuff. Rub with lump pumice stone and water. This process does not equal burning off in getting permanently rid of the cracks, but when the price of painting forbids burning off, it serves as an effective substitute. Upon a job that is well cared for, and not subjected to too exacting service, this filler will secrete the cracks and fissures for from 3 to 5 months.

«DRESSINGS FOR LEATHER:»

«For Carriage Tops.»—I.—Here is an inexpensive and quickly prepared dressing for carriage tops or the like: Take 2 parts of common glue; soak and liquefy it over a fire. Three parts of castile soap are then dissolved over a moderate heat. Of water, 120 parts are added to dissolve the soap and glue, after which an intimate mixture of the ingredients is effected. Then 4 parts of spirit varnish are added; next, 2 parts of wheat starch, previously mixed in water, are thrown in. Lampblack in a sufficient quantity to give the mixture a good coloring power, without killing the gloss, is now added. This preparation may be used as above prepared, or it may be placed over a gentle fire and the liquid ingredients slowly evaporated. The evaporated mass is then liquefied with beer as shop needs demand.

II.—Shabby dark leather will look like new if rubbed over with either linseed oil or the well-beaten white of an egg mixed with a little black ink. Polish with soft dusters until quite dry and glossy.

«Polishes.»—I.—Dissolve sticklac, 25 {449} parts; shellac, 20 parts; and gum benzoin, 4 parts, all finely powdered, in a rolling cask containing 100 parts of 96 per cent alcohol; perfume with 1 part of oil of rosemary. Upon letting stand for several days, filter the solution, whereupon a good glossy polish for leather, etc., will be obtained.

II.—Dissolve 2 pounds of borax in 4 gallons of water and add 5 pounds of shellac to the boiling liquid in portions, till all is dissolved. Then boil half an hour, and finally stir in 5 pounds of sugar, 2 1⁠/⁠2 pounds of glycerine, and 1 1⁠/⁠2 pounds of soluble nigrosin. When cold add 4 pounds of 95 per cent methylated spirit.

III.—Ox blood, fresh, clean 1,000 parts Commercial glycerine 200 parts Oil of turpentine 300 parts Pine oil (rosin oil) 5,000 parts Ox gall 200 parts Formalin 15 parts

Mix in the order named, stirring in each ingredient. When mixed strain through linen.

«Kid Leather Dressings.»—Creams for greasing fine varieties of leather, such as kid, patent leather, etc., are produced as follows, according to tried recipes:

White Cream.—

Lard 75 parts Glycerine, technical 25 parts Mirbane oil, ad libitum.

Black Cream.—

Lard 100 parts Yellow vaseline 20 parts Glycerine, technical 10 parts Castor oil, technical 10 parts

Dye black with lampblack and perfume with oil of mirbane.

Colored Cream.—

Lard 100 parts Castor oil 20 parts Yellow wax 25 parts White vaseline 30 parts

Dye with any desired dyestuff, e. g., red with anchusine, green with chlorophyl. In summer it is well to add some wax to the first and second prescriptions.

These are for either Morocco or kid:

I.—Shellac 2 parts Benzoin 2 parts Yellow wax 5 parts Soap liniment 7 parts Alcohol 600 parts

Digest until solution is effected, then allow the liquid to stand in a cool place for 12 hours and strain. Apply with a bit of sponge or soft rag; spread thinly and evenly over the surface, without rubbing much. If dirty, the leather should first be washed with a little soft soap and warm water, wiped well, and allowed to dry thoroughly before the dressing is put on.

II.—Oil of turpentine 8 ounces Suet 2 pounds Soft soap 8 ounces Water 16 ounces Lampblack 4 ounces

«Patent Leather Dressings.»—

I.—Wax 22 parts Olive oil 60 parts Oil turpentine, best 20 parts Lavender oil 10 parts

With gentle heat, melt the wax in the oil, and as soon as melted remove from the fire. Add the turpentine oil, incorporate, and when nearly cold, add and incorporate the lavender oil.

II.—Wax 22 parts Olive oil 60 parts Oil of turpentine 30 parts

With gentle heat, melt the wax in the olive oil, and as soon as melted remove from the fire. When nearly cold stir in the turpentine.

«Red Russia Leather Varnish.»—

Shellac 1.20 parts Dammar rosin, powdered 0.15 parts Turpentine, Venice 0.60 parts

Dissolve with frequent shaking in 12 parts of alcohol (95 per cent), add 1.8 parts of powdered red sanders wood, let stand for 3 days and filter. The object of this varnish is to restore the original color to worn Russia leather boots, previously cleaned with benzine.

«Russet Leather Dressing.»—The following formulas are said to yield efficient preparations that are at once detersive and polishing, thus rendering the use of an extra cleaning liquid unnecessary.

I.—Soft soap 2 parts Linseed oil 3 parts Annatto solution (in oil) 8 parts Beeswax 3 parts Turpentine 8 parts Water 8 parts

Dissolve the soap in the water, and add the annatto; melt the wax in the oil and turpentine, and gradually stir in the soap solution, stirring until cold. {450}

II.—Palm oil 16 parts Common soap 48 parts Oleic acid 32 parts Glycerine 10 parts Tannic acid 1 part

Melt the soap and palm oil together at a gentle heat, and add the oleic acid; dissolve the tannic acid in the glycerine, add to the hot soap and oil mixture, and stir until perfectly cold.

«Shoe Leather Dressing.»—Over a water bath melt 50 parts, by weight, of oil of turpentine; 100 parts, by weight, of olive oil; 100 parts, by weight, of train oil; 40 parts, by weight, of carnauba wax; 15 parts, by weight, of asphaltum; and 2 parts, by weight, of oil of bitter almonds.

«DYEING LEATHER.»

In dyeing leather, aniline or coal-tar colors are generally used. These dyes, owing to their extremely rapid action on organic substances, such as leather, do not readily adapt themselves to the staining process, because a full brushful of dye liquor would give a much deeper coloration than a half-exhausted brush would give. Consequently, to alter and to color leather by the staining process results in a patchy coloration of the skin. In the dyeing operation a zinc shallow trough, 4 to 6 inches deep, is used, into which the dye liquor is put, and to produce the best results the contents of the trough are kept at a uniform temperature by means of a heating apparatus beneath the trough, such as a gas jet or two, which readily allows of a heat being regulated. The skins to be dyed are spread out flat in the dye trough, one at a time, each skin remaining in the dye liquor the time prescribed by the recipe. The best coloration of the skin is produced by using 3 dye troughs of the same dye liquor, each of different strength, the skin being put in the weakest liquor first, then passed into the second, and from there into the third dye liquor, where it is allowed to remain until its full depth of color is obtained. Very great skill is required in the employment of aniline dyes, as if the heat be too great, or the skins remain too long in the final bath, “bronzing” of the color occurs. The only remedy for this (and that not always effectual) is to sponge the skin with plenty of cold, clean water, directly it is taken out of the final dye bath. The dyed skins are dried and finished as before.

«Leather Brown.»—

Extract of fustic 5 ounces Extract of hypernic 1 ounce Extract of logwood 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Water 2 gallons

Boil all these ingredients for 15 minutes, and then dilute with water to make 10 gallons of dye liquor. Use the dye liquor at a temperature of 110° F.

Mordant.—Dissolve 3 ounces of white tartar and 4 ounces of alum in 10 gallons of water.

«Fast Brown.»—Prepare a dye liquor by dissolving 1 1⁠/⁠2 ounces fast brown in 1 gallon of water, and make a 10-gallon bulk of this. Use at a temperature of 110° F., and employ the same mordanting liquor as in last recipe.

«Bismarck Brown.»—

Extract of fustic 4 ounces Extract of hypernic 1 ounce Extract of logwood 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Water 2 gallons

Preparation.—Boil all together for 15 minutes.

Method of Dyeing.—First mordant the skins with a mordanting fluid made by dissolving 3 ounces tartar and 1⁠/⁠2 ounce borax in 10 gallons of water. Then put the skins into the above foundation bath at a temperature of 100° F. Take them out, and then put in 1 ounce of Bismarck brown, dissolved in boiling water. Put the skins in again until colored deep enough, then lift out, drip and dry.

«HARNESS PREPARATIONS:»

«Blacking for Harness.»—I.—In a water bath dissolve 90 parts of yellow wax in 900 parts of oil of turpentine; aside from this mix well together, all the ingredients being finely powdered, 10 parts of Prussian blue, 5 parts of indigo, 50 parts of bone black, and work this into a portion of the above-mentioned waxy solution. Now throw this into the original solution, which still remains in the water bath, and stir it vigorously until the mass becomes homogeneous, after which pour it into any convenient earthenware receptacle.

II.—Best glue, 4 ounces; good vinegar, 1 1⁠/⁠2 pints; best gum arabic, 2 ounces; good black ink, 1⁠/⁠2 pint; best isinglass, 2 drachms. Dissolve the gum in the ink, and melt the isinglass in another vessel in as much hot water as will cover it. Having first steeped the glue in the vinegar until soft, dissolve it completely by the aid of heat, stirring to prevent burning. The heat should not exceed 180° F. Add the gum and ink, and allow the mixture to rise again to the same temperature. Lastly mix the solution in isinglass, and remove from fire. When {451} used, a small portion must be heated until fluid, and then applied with a sponge and allowed to dry on.

«Dressings for Harness.»—

I.—Ox blood, fresh and well purified 100 parts Glycerine, technical 20 parts Turpentine oil 30 parts Pine oil 50 parts Ox gall 20 parts Formalin 1 1⁠/⁠2 parts

The raw materials are stirred together cold in the order named. Pour the mixture through thin linen. It imparts a wonderful mild, permanent gloss.

II.—A French harness dressing of good quality consists of oil of turpentine, 900 parts; yellow wax, 90 parts; Berlin blue, 10 parts; indigo, 5 parts; and bone black, 50 parts. Dissolve the yellow wax in the oil of turpentine with the aid of moderate heat in a water bath, mix the remaining substances, which should previously be well pulverized, and work them with a small portion of the wax solution. Finally, add the rest of the wax solution, and mix the whole well in the water bath. When a homogeneous liquid has resulted, pour it into earthen receptacles.

«Harness Oils.»—

I.—Neatsfoot oil 10 ounces Oil of turpentine 2 ounces Petrolatum 4 ounces Lampblack 1⁠/⁠2 ounce

Mix the lampblack with the turpentine and the neatsfoot oil, melt the petrolatum and mix by shaking together.

II.—Black aniline 35 grains Muriatic acid 50 minims Bone black 175 grains Lampblack 18 grains Yellow wax 2 1⁠/⁠2 av. ounces Oil of turpentine 22 fluidounces

III.—Oil of turpentine 8 fluidounces Yellow wax 2 av. ounces Prussian blue 1⁠/⁠2 av. ounce Lampblack 1⁠/⁠4 av. ounce

Melt the wax, add the turpentine, a portion first to the finely powdered Prussian blue and lampblack, and thin with neatsfoot oil.

«Harness Pastes.»—

I.—Ceresine, natural yellow 1.5 parts Yellow beeswax 1.5 parts Japan wax 1.5 parts

Melt on the water bath, and when half cooled stir in 8 parts of turpentine oil.

«Harness Grease.»—

By weight II.—Ceresine, natural yellow 2.5 parts Beeswax, yellow 0.8 parts French colophony, pale 0.4 parts

III.—French oil turpentine 2.0 parts Intimately mixed in the cold with American lampblack 1.5 parts

Put mixture I in a kettle and melt over a fire. Remove from the fire and stir in mixture II in small portions. Then pour through a fine sieve into a second vessel, and continue pouring from one kettle into the other until the mass is rather thickish. Next fill in cans.

Should the mixture have become too cold during the filling of the cans, the vessel containing the grease need only be placed in hot water, whereby the contents are rendered liquid again, so that pouring out is practicable. For perfuming, use cinnamon oil as required.

This harness grease is applied by means of a rag and brushed.

«Waterproof Harness Composition.»—

See also Waterproofing.

By weight Rosin spirit 27 1⁠/⁠4 parts Dark mineral oil 13 1⁠/⁠2 parts Paraffine scales 16.380 parts Lampblack 7.940 parts Dark rosin 5.450 parts Dark syrup 5.450 parts Naphthalene black 2.500 parts Berlin blue 0.680 parts Mirbane oil 0.170 parts

Melt the paraffine and the rosin, add the mineral oil and the rosin spirit, stir the syrup and the pigments into this, and lastly add the mirbane oil.

«PATENT AND ENAMELED LEATHER.»

Patent leather for boots and shoes is prepared from sealskins, enameled leather for harness from heavy bullock’s hides. The process of tanning is what is called “union tannage” (a mixture of oak and hemlock barks). These tanned skins are subjected to the process of soaking, unhairing, liming, etc., and are then subjected to the tanning process. When about one-third tanned a buffing is taken off (if the hides are heavy), and the hide is split into three layers. The top or grain side is reserved for enameling in fancy colors for use on tops of carriages; the middle layer is finished for splatter {452} boards and carriage trimmings, and some parts of harness; the underneath layer, or flesh side is used for shoe uppers and other purposes. The tanning of the splits is completed by subjecting them to a gambier liquor instead of a bark liquor.

When the splits are fully tanned they are laid on a table and scored, and then stretched in frames and dried, after which each one is covered on one side with the following compound, so as to close the pores of the leather that it may present a suitable surface for receiving the varnish: Into 14 parts of raw linseed oil put 1 part dry white lead and 1 part silver litharge, and boil, stirring constantly until the compound is thick enough to dry in 15 or 20 minutes (when spread on a sheet of iron or china) into a tough, elastic mass, like caoutchouc. This compound is laid on one side of the leather while it is still stretched in the frame. If for enameled leather (i. e., not the best patent), chalk or yellow ocher may be mixed in the above compound while boiling, or afterwards, but before spreading it on the leather.

The frames are then put into a rack in a drying closet, and the coated leather dried by steam heat at 80° to 160° F., the heat being raised gradually. After removal from the drying closet, the grounding coat previously laid on is pumiced, to smooth out the surface, and then given 2 or 3 coats of the enameling varnish, which consists of Prussian blue and lampblack boiled with linseed oil and diluted with turpentine, so as to enable it to flow evenly over the surface of the coated leather. When spread on with a brush, each coating of the enamel is dried before applying the next, and pumiced or rubbed with tripoli powder on a piece of flannel (the coat last laid on is not subjected to this rubbing), when the leather is ready for market.

To prepare the enameling composition, boil 1 part asphaltum with 20 parts raw linseed oil until thoroughly combined; then add 10 parts thick copal varnish, and when this mixture is homogeneous dilute with 20 parts spirit of turpentine.

Instead of the foregoing enameling varnish the following is used for superior articles:

Prussian blue 18 ounces Vegetable black 4 ounces Raw linseed oil 160 fluidounces

Boil together as previously directed, and dilute with turpentine as occasion requires. These enameling varnishes should be made and kept several weeks in the same room as the varnishing is carried on, so that they are always subjected to the same temperature.

«STAINS FOR PATENT LEATHER:»

«Black Stain.»—

Vinegar 1 gallon Ivory black 14 ounces Ground iron scales 6 pounds

Mix well and allow to stand a few days.

«Red Stain.»—Water, 1 quart; spirit of hartshorn, 1 quart; cochineal, 1⁠/⁠4 pound. Heat the water to near the boiling point, and then dissolve in it the cochineal, afterwards adding the spirit of hartshorn. Stir well to incorporate.

«Liquid Cochineal Stain.»—

Good French carmine 2 1⁠/⁠2 drachms Solution of potash 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Rectified spirit of wine 2 ounces Pure glycerine 4 ounces Distilled water to make 1 pint.

To the carmine in a 20-ounce bottle add 14 ounces of distilled water. Then gradually introduce solution of potash, shaking now and again until dissolved. Add glycerine and spirit of wine, making up to 20 ounces with distilled water, and filter.

«Blue Black.»—Ale droppings, 2 gallons; bruised galls, 1⁠/⁠2 pound; logwood extract, 1⁠/⁠4 pound; indigo extract, 2 ounces; sulphate of iron, 3 1⁠/⁠2 ounces. Heat together and strain.