Henley's Twentieth Century Formulas, Recipes and Processes
Part 71
Recently pepsin and papain have been proposed as applications to remove the cuticle. A glycerole of either is tattooed into the skin over the disfigured part; and it is said that the operation has proved successful.
It is scarcely necessary to say that suppuration is likely to follow such treatment, and that there is risk of scarring. In view of this it becomes apparent that any such operation should be undertaken only by a surgeon skilled in dermatological practice. An amateur might not only cause the patient suffering without success in removal, but add another disfigurement to the tattooing.
Carbolic acid has been applied to small portions of the affected area at a time, with the result that the powder and skin were removed simultaneously and, according to the physician reporting the case, with little discomfort to the patient.
Rubbing the affected part with moistened ammonium chloride once or twice a day has been reported as a slow but sure cure.
«GUTTA-PERCHA.»
«Gutta-Percha Substitute.»—I.—A decoction of birch bark is first prepared, the external bark by preference, being evaporated. The thick, black residue hardens on exposure to the air, and is said to possess the properties of gutta-percha without developing any cracks. It can be mixed with 50 per cent of India rubber or gutta-percha. The compound is said to be cheap, and a good non-conductor of electricity. Whether it possesses all the good qualities of gutta-percha is not known.
II.—A new method of making gutta-percha consists of caoutchouc and a rosin soap, the latter compounded of 100 parts of rosin, 100 parts of Carnauba wax, and 40 parts of gas-tar, melted together and passed through a sieve. They are heated to about 355° to 340° F., and slowly saponified by stirring with 75 parts of limewater of specific gravity 1.06. The product is next put into a kneading machine along with an equal quantity of caoutchouc cuttings, and worked in this machine at a temperature of 195° F. or over. When sufficiently kneaded, the mass can be rolled to render it more uniform.
GUTTER CEMENT: See Cement and Putty.
«GYPSUM:»
See also Plaster.
«Method of Hardening Gypsum and Rendering it Weather-Proof.»—Gypsum possesses only a moderate degree of strength even after complete hardening, {388} and pieces are very liable to be broken off. Various methods have been tried, with a view to removing this defect and increasing the hardness of gypsum. Of these methods, that of Wachsmuth, for hardening articles made of gypsum and rendering them weather-proof, deserves special notice. All methods of hardening articles made of gypsum have this in common: the gypsum is first deprived of its moisture, and then immersed in a solution of certain salts, such as alum, green vitriol, etc. Articles treated by the methods hitherto in vogue certainly acquire considerable hardness, but are no more capable of resistance to the effects of water than crude gypsum. The object of Wachsmuth’s process is not merely to harden the gypsum, but to transform it on the surface into insoluble combinations. The process is as follows: The article is first put into the required shape by mechanical means, and then deprived of its moisture by heating to 212° to 302° F. It is then plunged into a heated solution of barium hydrate, in which it is allowed to remain for a longer or shorter time, according to its strength. When this part of the process is complete, the article is smoothed by grinding, etc., and then placed in a solution of about 10 per cent of oxalic acid in water. In a few hours it is taken out, dried, and polished. It then possesses a hardness surpassing that of marble, and is impervious to the action of water. Nor does the polish sustain any injury from contact with water, whereas gypsum articles hardened by the usual methods lose their polish after a few minutes’ immersion in water. Articles treated by the method described have the natural color of gypsum, but it is possible to add a color to the gypsum during the hardening process. This is done by plunging the gypsum, after it has been deprived of its moisture, and before the treatment with the barium solution, into a solution of a colored metallic sulphate, such as iron, copper, or chrome sulphate, or into a solution of some coloring matter. Pigments soluble in the barium or oxalic-acid solutions may also be added to the latter.
Gypsum may be hardened and rendered insoluble by ammonium borate as follows: Dissolve boric acid in hot water and add sufficient ammonia water to the solution that the borate at first separated is redissolved. The gypsum to be cast is stirred in with this liquid, and the mass treated in the ordinary way. Articles already cast are simply washed with the liquid, which is quickly absorbed. The articles withstand the weather as well as though they were of stone.
GYPSUM FLOWERS: See Flowers.
GYPSUM, PAINT FOR: See Paint.
«HAIR FOR MOUNTING.»
The microscopist or amateur, who shaves himself, need never resort to the trouble of embedding and cutting hairs in the microtome in order to secure very thin sections of the hair of the face. If he will first shave himself closely “with the hair,” as the barbers say (i. e., in the direction of the natural growth of the hair), and afterwards lightly “against the hair” (in the opposite direction to above), he will find in the “scrapings” a multitude of exceedingly thin sections. The technique is very simple. The lather and “scrapings” are put into a saucer or large watch-glass and carefully washed with clean water. This breaks down and dissolves the lather, leaving the hair sections lying on the bottom of the glass. The after-treatment is that usually employed in mounting similar objects.
«Hair Preparations»
«DANDRUFF CURES.»
The treatment of that condition of the scalp which is productive of dandruff properly falls to the physician, but unfortunately the subject has not been much studied. One cure is said to be a sulphur lotion made by placing a little sublimed sulphur in water, shaking well, then allowing to settle, and washing the head every morning with the clear liquid.
Sulphur is said to be insoluble in water; yet a sulphur water made as above indicated has long been in use as a hair wash. A little glycerine improves the preparation, preventing the hair from becoming harsh by repeated washings.
The exfoliated particles of skin or “scales” should be removed only when entirely detached from the cuticle. They result from an irritation which is increased by forcible removal, and hence endeavors to clean the hair from them by combing or brushing it in such a way as to scrape the scalp are liable to be worse than useless. It follows that gentle handling of the hair is important when dandruff is present. {389}
I.—Chloral hydrate 2 ounces Resorcin 1 ounce Tannin 1 ounce Alcohol 8 ounces Glycerine 4 ounces Rose water to make 4 pints
II.—White wax 3 1/2 drachms Liquid petrolatum 2 1/2 ounces Rose water 1 ounce Borax 15 grains Precipitated sulphur 3 1/2 drachms
Pine-Tar Dandruff Shampoo.—
Pine tar 4 parts Linseed oil 40 parts
Heat these to 140° F.; make solution of potassa, U. S. P., 10 parts, and water, 45 parts; add alcohol, 5 parts, and gradually add to the heated oils, stirring constantly. Continue the heat until saponified thoroughly; and make up with water to 128 parts. When almost cool, add ol. lavender, ol. orange, and ol. bergamot, of each 2 parts.
«HAIR-CURLING LIQUIDS.»
It is impossible to render straight hair curly without the aid of the iron or paper and other curlers. But it is possible, on the other hand, to make artificial curls more durable and proof against outside influences, such as especially dampness of the air. Below are trustworthy recipes:
I II Water 70 80 Spirit of wine 30 20 Borax 2 — Tincture of benzoin — 3 Perfume ad. lib. ad. lib.
«HAIR DRESSINGS AND WASHES:»
Dressings for the Hair.—
I.—Oil of wintergreen. 20 drops Oil of almond, essential 35 drops Oil of rose, ethereal 1 drop Oil of violets 30 drops Tincture of cantharides 50 drops Almond oil 2,000 drops
Mix.
Hair Embrocation.—
II.—Almond oil, sweet 280 parts Spirit of sal ammoniac 280 parts Spirit of rosemary 840 parts Honey water 840 parts
Mix. Rub the scalp with it every morning by means of a sponge.
Hair Restorer.—
III.—Tincture of cantharides 7 parts Gall tincture 7 parts Musk essence 1 part Carmine 0.5 part Rectified spirit of wine 28 parts Rose water 140 parts
To be used at night.
Rosemary Water.—
IV.—Rosemary oil 1 1/2 parts Rectified spirit of wine 7 parts Magnesia 7 parts Distilled water 1,000 parts
Mix the oil with the spirit of wine and rub up with the magnesia in a mortar; gradually add the water and finally filter.
Foamy Scalp Wash.—Mix 2 parts of soap spirit, 1 part of borax-glycerine (1+2), 6 parts of barium, and 7 parts of orange-flower water.
Lanolin Hair Wash.—Extract 4 parts quillaia bark with 36 parts water for several days, mix the percolate with 4 parts alcohol, and filter after having settled. Agitate 40 parts of the filtrate at a temperature at which wool grease becomes liquid, with 12 parts anhydrous lanolin, and fill up with water to which 15 per cent spirit of wine has been added, to 300 parts. Admixture, such as cinchona extract, Peru balsam, quinine, tincture of cantharides, bay-oil, ammonium carbonate, menthol, etc., may be made. The result is a yellowish-white, milky liquid, with a cream-like fat layer floating on the top, which is finely distributed by agitating.
Birch Water.—Birch water, which has many cosmetic applications, especially as a hair wash or an ingredient in hair washes, may be prepared as follows:
Alcohol, 96 per cent 3,500 parts Water 700 parts Potash soap 200 parts Glycerine 150 parts Oil of birch buds 50 parts Essence of spring flowers 100 parts Chlorophyll, q. s. to color.
Mix the water with 700 parts of the alcohol, and in the mixture dissolve the soap. Add the essence of spring flowers and birch oil to the remainder of the alcohol, mix well, and to the mixture add, little by little, and with constant agitation, the soap mixture. Finally {390} add the glycerine, mix thoroughly, and set aside for 8 days, filter and color the filtrate with chlorophyll, to which add a little tincture of saffron. To use, add an equal volume of water to produce a lather.
Petroleum Hair Washes.—I.—Deodorized pale petroleum, 10 parts; citronella oil, 10 parts; castor oil, 5 parts; spirit of wine, 90 per cent, 50 parts; water, 75 parts.
II.—Quinine sulphate, 10 parts; acetic acid, 4 parts; tincture of cantharides, 30 parts; tincture of quinine, 3 parts; spirit of rosemary, 60 parts; balm water, 90 parts; barium, 120 parts; spirit of wine, 150 parts; water, 1,000 parts.
III.—Very pure petroleum, 1 part; almond oil, 2 parts.
Brilliantine.—I.—Olive oil, 4 parts; glycerine, 3 parts; alcohol, 3 parts; scent as desired. Shake before use.
II.—Castor oil, 1 part; alcohol, 2 parts; saffron to dye yellow. Scent as desired.
III.—Lard, 7 parts; spermaceti, 7 parts; almond oil, 7 parts; white wax, 1 part.
A Cheap Hair Oil.—I.—Sesame oil or sunflower oil, 1,000 parts; lavender oil, 15 parts; bergamot oil, 10 parts; and geranium oil, 5 parts.
II.—Sesame oil or sunflower oil, 1,000 parts; lavender oil, 12 parts; lemon oil, 20 parts; rosemary oil, 5 parts; and geranium oil, 2 parts.
«HAIR DYES.»
There is no hair dye which produces a durable coloration; the color becomes gradually weaker in the course of time. Here are some typical formulas in which a mordant is employed:
I.—Nitrate of silver 1/2 ounce Distilled water 3 ounces
Mordant:
Sulphuret of potassium 1/2 ounce Distilled water 3 ounces
II.—
(_a_) Nitrate of silver (crystal) 1 1/2 ounces Distilled water 12 ounces Ammonia water sufficient to make a clear solution.
Dissolve the nitrate of silver in the water and add the ammonia water until the precipitate is redissolved.
(_b_) Pyrogallic acid 2 drachms Gallic acid 2 drachms Cologne water 2 ounces Distilled water 4 ounces
III.—Nitrate of silver 20 grains Sulphate of copper 2 grains Ammonia, quantity sufficient.
Dissolve the salts in 1/2 ounce of water and add ammonia until the precipitate which is formed is redissolved, Then make up to 1 ounce with water. Apply to the hair with a brush. This solution slowly gives a brown shade. For darker shades, apply a second solution, composed of:
IV.—Yellow sulphide ammonium 2 drachms Solution of ammonia 1 drachm Distilled water 1 ounce
Black Hair Dye without Silver.—
V.—Pyrogallic acid 3.5 parts Citric acid 0.3 parts Boro-glycerine 11 parts Water 100 parts
If the dye does not impart the desired intensity of color, the amount of pyrogallic acid may be increased. The wash is applied evenings, followed in the morning by a weak ammoniacal wash.
One Bottle Preparation.—
VI.—Nitrate of copper 360 grains Nitrate of silver 7 ounces Distilled water 60 ounces Water of ammonia, a sufficiency.
Dissolve the salts in the water and add the water of ammonia carefully until the precipitate is all redissolved. This solution, properly applied, is said to produce a very black color; a lighter shade is secured by diluting the solution. Copper sulphate may be used instead of the nitrate.
Brown Hair Dyes.—A large excess of ammonia tends to produce a brownish dye. Various shades of brown may be produced by increasing the amount of water in the silver solution. It should be remembered that the hair must, previously to treatment, be washed with warm water containing sodium carbonate, well rinsed with clear water, and dried.
I.—Silver nitrate 480 grains Copper nitrate 90 grains Distilled water 8 fluidounces Ammonia water, sufficient.
Dissolve the two salts in the distilled water and add the ammonia water until the liquid becomes a clear fluid.
In using apply to the hair carefully {391} with a tooth-brush, after thoroughly cleansing the hair, and expose the latter to the rays of the sun.
II.—Silver nitrate 30 parts Copper sulphate, crystals 20 parts Citric acid 20 parts Distilled water 950 parts Ammonia water, quantity sufficient to dissolve the precipitate first formed.
Various shades of brown may be produced by properly diluting the solution before it be applied.
Bismuth subnitrate 200 grains Water 2 fluidounces Nitric acid, sufficient to dissolve, or about 420 grains
Use heat to effect solution. Also:
Tartaric acid 150 grains Sodium bicarbonate 168 grains Water 32 fluidounces
When effervescence of the latter has ceased, mix the cold liquids by pouring the latter into the former with constant stirring. Allow the precipitate to subside; transfer it to a filter or strainer, and wash with water until free from the sodium nitrate formed.
Chestnut Hair Dye.—
Bismuth nitrate 230 grains Tartaric acid 75 grains Water 100 minims
Dissolve the acid in the water, and to the solution add the bismuth nitrate and stir until dissolved. Pour the resulting solution into 1 pint of water and collect the magma on a filter. Remove all traces of acid from the magma by repeated washings with water; then dissolve it in:
Ammonia water 2 fluidrachms
And add:
Glycerine 20 minims Sodium hyposulphite 75 grains Water, enough to make 4 fluidounces.
«HAIR RESTORERS AND TONICS:»
«Falling of the Hair.»—After the scalp has been thoroughly cleansed by the shampoo, the following formula is to be used:
Salicylic acid 1 part Precipitate of sulphur 2 1/2 parts Rose water 25 parts
The patient is directed to part the hair, and then to rub in a small portion of the ointment along the part, working it well into the scalp. Then another part is made parallel to the first, and more ointment rubbed in. Thus a series of first, longitudinal, and then transverse parts are made, until the whole scalp has been well anointed. Done in this way, it is not necessary to smear up the whole shaft of the hair, but only to reach the hair roots and the sebaceous glands, where the trouble is located. This process is thoroughly performed for six successive nights, and the seventh night another shampoo is taken. The eighth night the inunctions are commenced again, and this is continued for six weeks. In almost every case the production of dandruff is checked completely after six weeks’ treatment, and the hair, which may have been falling out rapidly before, begins to take firmer root. To be sure, many hairs which are on the point of falling when treatment is begun will fall anyway, and it may even seem for a time as if the treatment were increasing the hair-fall, on account of the mechanical dislodgment of such hairs, but this need never alarm one.
After six weeks of such treatment the shampoo may be taken less frequently.
Next to dandruff, perhaps, the most common cause of early loss of hair is heredity. In some families all of the male members, or all who resemble one particular ancestor, lose their hair early. Dark-haired families and races, as a rule, become bald earlier than those with light hair. At first thought it would seem as though nothing could be done to prevent premature baldness when heredity is the cause, but this is a mistake. Careful hygiene of the scalp will often counterbalance hereditary predisposition for a number of years, and even after the hair has actually begun to fall proper stimulation will, to a certain extent, and for a limited time, often restore to the hair its pristine thickness and strength. Any of the rubefacients may be prescribed for this purpose for daily use, such as croton oil, 1 1/2 per cent; tincture of cantharides, 15 per cent; oil of cinnamon, 40 per cent; tincture of capsicum, 15 per cent; oil of mustard, 1 per cent; or any one of a dozen others. Tincture of capsicum is one of the best, and for a routine prescription the following has served well:
Resorcin 5 parts Tincture capsicum 15 parts Castor oil 10 parts Alcohol 100 parts Oil of roses, sufficient.
{392}
It is to be recommended that the stimulant be changed from time to time, so as not to rely on any one to the exclusion of others. Jaborandi, oxygen gas, quinine, and other agents have enjoyed a great reputation as hair-producers for a time, and have then taken their proper position as aids, but not specifics, in restoring the hair.
It is well known that after many fevers, especially those accompanied by great depression, such as pneumonia, typhoid, puerperal, or scarlet fever, the hair is liable to fall out. This is brought about in a variety of ways: In scarlatina, the hair papilla shares in the general desquamation; in typhoid and the other fevers the baldness may be the result either of the excessive seborrhea, which often accompanies these diseases, or may be caused by the general lowering of nutrition of the body. Unless the hair-fall be accompanied by considerable dandruff (in which case the above-mentioned treatment should be vigorously employed), the ordinary hygiene of the scalp will result in a restoration of the hair in most cases, but the employment of moderate local stimulation, with the use of good general tonics, will hasten this end. It seems unwise to cut the hair of women short in these cases, because the baldness is practically never complete, and a certain proportion of the hairs will retain firm root. These may be augmented by a switch made of the hair which has fallen out, until the new hair shall have grown long enough to do up well. In this way all of that oftentimes most annoying short-hair period is avoided.
«For Falling Hair.»—
I.—Hydrochloric acid 75 parts Alcohol 2,250 parts
The lotion is to be applied to the scalp every evening at bedtime.
II.—Tincture of cinchona 1 part Tincture of rosemary 1 part Tincture of jaborandi 1 part Castor oil 2 parts Rum 10 parts
Mix.
«Jaborandi Scalp Waters for Increasing the Growth of Hair.»—First prepare a jaborandi tincture from jaborandi leaves, 200 parts; spirit, 95 per cent, 700 parts; and water, 300 parts. After digesting for a week, squeeze out the leaves and filter the liquid. The hair wash is now prepared as follows:
I.—Jaborandi tincture, 1,000 parts: spirit, 95 per cent, 700 parts; water, 300 parts; glycerine, 150 parts; scent essence, 100 parts; color with sugar color.
II.—Jaborandi tincture, 1,000 parts: spirit, 95 per cent, 1,500 parts; quinine tannate, 4 parts; Peru balsam, 20 parts; essence heliotrope, 50 parts. Dissolve the quinine and the Peru balsam in the spirit and then add the jaborandi tincture and the heliotrope essence. Filter after a week. Rub into the scalp twice a week before retiring.
«POMADES:»
I.—Cinchona Pomade.—
Ox marrow 100 drachms Lard 70 drachms Sweet almond oil 17 drachms Peru balsam 1 drachm Quinine sulphate 1 drachm Clover oil 2 drachms Rose essence 25 drops
II.—Cantharides Pomade.—
Ox marrow 300 drachms White wax 30 drachms Mace oil 1 drachm Clove oil 1 drachm Rose essence or geranium oil 25 drops Tincture of cantharides 8 drachms
Pinaud Eau de Quinine.—The composition of this nostrum is not known. Dr. Tsheppe failed to find in it any constituent of cinchona bark. The absence of quinine from the mixture probably would not hurt it, as the “tonic” effect of quinine on the hair is generally regarded as a myth.
On the other hand, it has been stated that this preparation contains:
Quinine sulphate 2 parts Tincture of krameria 4 parts Tincture of cantharides 2 parts Spirit of lavender 10 parts Glycerine 15 parts Alcohol 100 parts
«SHAMPOOS:»
A Hair Shampoo is usually a tincture of odorless soft soap. It is mostly perfumed with lavender and colored with green aniline. Prepared the same as tr. sapon. virid. (U. S. P.), using an inexpensive soft soap, that is a good foam producer. Directions: Wet the hair well in warm water and rub in a few teaspoonfuls of the following formulas. No. I is considered the best: {393}
I II III IV Parts used Cottonseed oil — 24 26 14 Linseed oil 20 — — — Malaga olive oil 20 — — — Caustic potash 9 1/2 8 6 3 Alcohol 5 4 1/2 5 2 Water 30 26 34 16 1/2