Henley's Twentieth Century Formulas, Recipes and Processes

Part 67

Chapter 673,695 wordsPublic domain

Mash the berries with a wooden masher, never using iron or copper utensils, which may discolor the fruit.

Pineapple may be prepared by removing the rough outer skin and grating the pulp upon an ordinary tin kitchen grater. The grater should be scrupulously clean, and care should be taken not to grate off any of the coarse, fibrous matter comprising the fruit’s core.

All crushed fruits are served as follows: Mix equal quantities of pulp and simple syrup in the counter bowl; use 1 1⁠/⁠2 to 2 ounces to each glass, adding the usual quantity of cream, or ice cream. Draw soda, using a fine stream freely.

IX.—Glacés.—Crushed fruits, served in the following manner, make a delicious and refreshing drink:

Crushed fruit 12 drachms Juice of half a lemon. Shaved ice.

Put the ice into a small glass, add the fruit and lemon juice, stir well, and serve with a spoon and straws.

FRUIT PRODUCTS, TESTS FOR: See Foods.

FRUIT SYRUPS: See Syrups.

FRUIT VINEGAR: See Vinegar.

«Fumigants»

(See also Disinfectants.)

«Fumigating Candles.»—I.—Lime wood charcoal, 6,000 parts, by weight, saturated with water (containing saltpeter, 150 parts, by weight, in solution), and dried again, is mixed with benzoin, 750 parts, by weight; styrax, 700 parts, by weight; mastic, 100 parts, by weight; cascarilla, 450 parts, by weight; Peruvian balsam, 40 parts, by weight; Mitcham oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, and bergamot oil, 15 parts, by weight, each; and neroli oil, 3 parts, by weight.

II.—Charcoal, 7,500 parts, by weight; saltpeter, 150 parts, by weight; Tolu balsam, 500 parts, by weight; musk, 2 parts, by weight; rose oil, 1 part. The mixtures are crushed with thick tragacanth to a solid mass.

III.—Sandal wood, 48 parts, by weight; clove, 6 parts, by weight; benzoin, 6 parts, by weight; licorice juice, 4 parts, by weight; potash saltpeter, 2 parts, by weight; cascarilla bark, 1.5 parts, by weight; cinnamon bark, 1.5 parts, by weight; musk, 0.05 parts, by weight. All these substances are powdered and mixed, whereupon the following are added: Styrax (liquid), 5 parts, by weight; cinnamon oil, 0.05 parts, by weight; clove oil, 0.05 parts, by weight; geranium oil, 0.5 parts, by weight; lavender oil, 0.2 parts, by weight; Peruvian balsam, 0.2 parts, by weight. The solid ingredients are each powdered separately, then placed in the respective proportion in a {366} spacious porcelain dish and intimately mixed by means of a flat spatula. The dish must be covered up with a cloth in this operation. After the mixture has been accomplished, add the essential oils and just enough solution of gum arabic so that by subsequent kneading with the pestle a moldable dough results which possesses sufficient solidity after drying. The mass is pressed into metallic molds in the shape of cones not more than 3⁠/⁠4 of an inch in height.

IV.—Red Fumigating Candles.—Sandal wood, 1 part; gum benzoin, 1.5 parts; Tolu balsam, 0.250 parts; sandal oil, .025 parts; cassia oil, .025 parts; clove oil, 25 parts; saltpeter, .090 parts. The powder is mixed intimately, saturated with spirit of wine, in which the oils are dissolved, and shaped into cones.

V.—Wintergreen oil 1 part Tragacanth 20 parts Saltpeter 50 parts Phenol, crystallized 100 parts Charcoal, powdered 830 parts Water.

Dissolve the saltpeter in the water, stir the solution together with the powdered charcoal and dry. Then add the tragacanth powder, also the wintergreen oil and the phenol, and prepare from the mixture, by means of a tragacanth solution containing 2 per cent of saltpeter, a mass which can be shaped into candles.

«Fumigating Perfumes.»—These are used for quickly putting down bad odors in the sick room, etc. They are decidedly antiseptic, and fulfil their purpose admirably.

I.—Select good white blotting paper, and cut each large sheet lengthwise into 3 equal pieces. Make a solution of 1 ounce of potassium nitrate in 12 ounces of boiling water; place this solution in a large plate, and draw each strip of paper over the solution so as to saturate it. Then dry by hanging up. The dried paper is to be saturated in a similar manner with either of the following solutions:

(1) Siam benzoin 1 ounce Storax 3 drachms Olibanum 2 scruples Mastic 2 scruples Cascarilla 2 drachms Vanilla 1 drachm Rectified spirit 8 ounces

Bruise the solids and macerate in the spirit 5 days, filter, and add

Oil of cinnamon 8 parts Oil of cloves 8 parts Oil of bergamot 5 parts Oil of neroli 5 parts

Mix.

(2) Benzoin 1 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Sandal wood 1 ounce Spirit 8 ounces

Macerate as No. 1, and add

Essence of vetiver 3 ounces Oil of lemon grass 40 drops

Mix.

After the paper is dry, cut up into suitable sized pieces to go into commercial envelopes.

II.—Benzoin 1 av. ounce Storax 1 av. ounce Fumigating essence 2 fluidounces Ether 1 fluidounce Acetic acid, glacial 20 drops Alcohol 2 fluidounces

Dissolve the benzoin and storax in a mixture of the alcohol and ether, filter and add the fumigating and the acetic acid. Spread the mixture upon filtering or bibulous paper and allow it to dry. To prevent sticking, dust the surface with talcum and preserve in wax paper. When used the paper is simply warmed, or held over a lamp.

III.—Musk 0.2 parts Oil of rose 1 part Benzoin 100 parts Myrrh 12 parts Orris root 250 parts Alcohol (90 per cent) 500 parts

IV.—Benzoin 80 parts Balsam Tolu 20 parts Storax 20 parts Sandal wood 20 parts Myrrh 10 parts Cascarilla bark 20 parts Musk 0.2 parts Alcohol 250 parts

«Fumigating Ribbon.»—I.—Take 1⁠/⁠2-inch cotton tape and saturate it with niter; when dry, saturate with the following tincture:

Benzoin 1 ounce Orris root 1 ounce Myrrh 2 drachms Tolu balsam 2 drachms Musk 10 grains Rectified spirit 10 ounces

Macerate for a week, filter, and add 10 minims of attar of rose.

II.—Another good formula which may also be used for fumigating paper, is: {367}

Olibanum 2 ounces Storax 1 ounce Benzoin 6 drachms Peruvian balsam 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Tolu balsam 3 drachms Rectified spirit 10 ounces

Macerate 10 days, and filter.

«Perfumed Fumigating Pastilles.»—

I.—Vegetable charcoal 6 ounces Benzoin 1 ounce Nitrate of potash 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Tolu balsam 2 drachms Sandal wood 2 drachms Mucilage of tragacanth, a sufficiency.

Reduce the solids to fine powder, mix, and make into a stiff paste with the mucilage. Divide this into cones 25 grains in weight, and dry with a gentle heat.

II.—Powdered willow charcoal 8 ounces Benzoic acid 6 ounces Nitrate of potash 6 drachms Oil of thyme 1⁠/⁠2 drachm Oil of sandal wood 1⁠/⁠2 drachm Oil of caraway 1⁠/⁠2 drachm Oil of cloves 1⁠/⁠2 drachm Oil of lavender 1⁠/⁠2 drachm Oil of rose 1⁠/⁠2 drachm Rose water 10 ounces

Proceed as in I, but this recipe is better for the addition of 20 grains of powdered tragacanth.

III.—Benzoin 10 av. ounces Charcoal 24 av. ounces Potassium nitrate 1 av. ounce Sassafras 2 av. ounces Mucilage of acacia, sufficient.

Mix the first four in fine powder, add the mucilage, form a mass, and make into conical pastilles.

IV.—Potassium nitrate 375 grains Water 25 fluidounces Charcoal wood, powder 30 av. ounces Tragacanth, powder 375 grains Storax 300 grains Benzoin 300 grains Vanillin 8 grains Coumarin 3 grains Musk 3 grains Civet 1 1⁠/⁠2 grains Oil of rose 20 drops Oil of bergamot 15 drops Oil of ylang-ylang 10 drops Oil of rhodium 10 drops Oil of sandal wood 5 drops Oil of cinnamon 5 drops Oil of orris 1 drop Oil of cascarilla 1 drop

Saturate the charcoal with the potassium nitrate dissolved in the water, dry the mass, powder, add the other ingredients, and mix thoroughly. Beat the mixture to a plastic mass with the addition of sufficient mucilage of tragacanth containing 2 per cent of saltpeter in solution, and form into cone-shaped pastilles. In order to evenly distribute the storax throughout the mass, it may be previously dissolved in a small amount of acetic ether.

V.—Benzoin 2 av. ounces Cascarilla 1 av. ounce Myrrh 1 av. ounce Potassium nitrate 1⁠/⁠2 av. ounce Potassium chlorate 60 grains Charcoal, wood 4 av. ounces Oil of cloves 1 fluidrachm Oil of cinnamon 1 fluidrachm Oil of lavender 1 fluidrachm Mucilage of tragacanth, sufficient.

Mix the first six ingredients previously reduced to fine powder, add the oils, and then incorporate enough mucilage to form a mass. Divide this into pastilles weighing about 60 grains and dry.

VI.—Charcoal, powder 30 av. ounces Potassium nitrate 1⁠/⁠2 av. ounce Water 33 fluidounces Tragacanth, powder 300 grains Tincture of benzoin 1 1⁠/⁠2 fluidounces Peru balsam 300 grains Storax, crude 300 grains Tolu balsam 300 grains Oleo-balsamic mixture 2 1⁠/⁠2 fluidrachms Coumarin 8 grains

Saturate the charcoal with the potassium nitrate dissolved in the water, then dry, reduce to powder, and incorporate the tragacanth and then the remaining ingredients. Form a mass by the addition of sufficient mucilage of tragacanth containing 2 per cent of potassium nitrate in solution and divide into pastilles.

VII.—Powdered nitrate of potassium 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Powdered gum arabic 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Powdered cascarilla bark (fresh) 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Powdered benzoin (fresh) 4 ounces {368} Powdered charcoal 7 ounces Oil of eucalyptus 25 drops Oil of cloves 25 drops Water, a sufficiency.

Make a smooth paste, press into molds and dry.

«FURS:»

«To Clean Furs.»—For dark furs, warm a quantity of new bran in a pan, taking care that it does not burn, to prevent which it must be briskly stirred. When well warmed rub it thoroughly into the fur with the hand. Repeat this 2 or 3 times, then shake the fur, and give it another sharp rubbing until free from dust. For white furs: Lay them on a table, and rub well with bran made moist with warm water; rub until quite dry, and afterwards with dry bran. The wet bran should be put on with flannel, then dry with book muslin. Light furs, in addition to the above, should be well rubbed with magnesia or a piece of book muslin, after the bran process, against the way of the fur.

«To Preserve Furs.»—I.—Furs may be preserved from moths and other insects by placing a little colocynth pulp (bitter apple), or spice (cloves, pimento, etc.), wrapped in muslin, among them; or they may be washed in a very weak solution of corrosive sublimate in warm water (10 to 15 grains to the pint), and afterwards carefully dried. As well as every other species of clothing, they should be kept in a clean, dry place, from which they should be taken out occasionally, well beaten, exposed to the air, and returned.

II.—Sprinkle the furs or woolen stuffs, as well as the drawers or boxes in which they are kept, with spirits of turpentine, the unpleasant scent of which will speedily evaporate on exposure of the stuffs to the air. Some persons place sheets of paper moistened with spirits of turpentine, over, under, or between pieces of cloth, etc., and find it a very effectual method. Many woolen drapers put bits of camphor, the size of a nutmeg, in papers, on different parts of the shelves in their shops, and as they brush their cloths every 2, 3, or 4 months, this keeps them free from moths; and this should be done in boxes where the furs, etc., are put. A tallow candle is frequently put within each muff when laid by. Snuff or pepper is also good.

«FURNACE JACKET.»

A piece of asbestos millboard—10 inches by 4 inches by 3⁠/⁠8 inch—is perforated in about a dozen or more places with glycerined cork borers, then nicked about an inch from each short end and immersed in water until saturated; next the board is bent from the nicks at right angles and the perforated portion shaped by bending it over a bottle with as little force as possible. The result should be a perforated arched tunnel, resting on narrow horizontal ledges at each side. Dry this cover in the furnace, after setting it in position, and pressing it well to the supports. Three such covers, weighing 1 pound, replaced 24 fire clay tiles, weighing 13 pounds, and a higher temperature was obtained than with the latter.

FURNITURE CLEANERS: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

FURNITURE, ITS DECORATION: See Wood.

FURNITURE ENAMEL: See Varnishes.

FURNITURE POLISHES: See Polishes.

FURNITURE WAX: See Waxes.

FUSES: See Pyrotechnics.

FUSES FOR ELECTRICAL CIRCUITS: See Alloys.

FUNNELS, TO CLEAN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

GALVANIZED PAPER: See Paper, Metallic.

GAMBOGE STAIN: See Lacquers.

GAPES IN POULTRY: See Veterinary Formulas.

GARANCINE PROCESS: See Dyes.

«GARDENS, CHEMICAL:»

See also Sponges.

I.—Put some sand into a fish-globe or other suitable glass vessel to the depth of 2 or 3 inches; in this place a few pieces of sulphate of copper, aluminum, and iron; pour over the whole a solution of sodium silicate (water glass), 1 part, and water, 3 parts, care being taken not to disarrange the chemicals. Let this stand a week or so, when a dense growth of the silicates of the various bases used will be seen in various colors. Now displace {369} the solution of the sodium silicate with clear water, by conveying a stream of water through a very small rubber tube into the vessel. The water will gradually displace the sodium silicate solution. Care must be taken not to disarrange or break down the growth with the stream of water. A little experimenting, experience and expertness will enable the operator to produce a very pretty garden.

II.—This is a permanent chemical garden, which may be suspended by brass chains with a lamp behind.

Prepare a small beaker or jar full of cold saturated solution of Glauber’s salt, and into the solution suspend by means of threads a kidney bean and a non-porous body, such as a marble, stone, glass, etc. Cover the jar, and in a short time there will be seen radiating from the bean small crystals of sulphate of sodium which will increase and give the bean the aspect of a sea urchin, while the non-porous body remains untouched. The bean appears to have a special partiality for the crystals, which is due to the absorption of water by the bean, but not of the salt. In this way a supersaturated solution is formed in the immediate neighborhood of the bean, and the crystals, in forming, attach themselves to its surface.

III.—A popular form of ornamental crystallization is that obtained by immersing a zinc rod in a solution of a lead salt, thus obtaining the “lead tree.” To prepare this, dissolve lead acetate in water, add a few drops of nitric acid, and then suspend the zinc rod in the solution. The lead is precipitated in large and beautiful plates until the solution is exhausted or the zinc dissolved. In this case the action is electro-chemical, the first portions of the lead precipitated forming with the zinc a voltaic arrangement of sufficient power to decompose the salt.

It is said that by substituting chloride of tin for the lead salt a “tin tree” may be produced, while nitrate of silver under the same conditions would produce a “silver tree.” In the latter case distilled water should be used to prevent precipitation of the silver by possible impurities contained in ordinary water.

GAS FIXTURES: See Brass.

GAS FIXTURES, BRONZING OF: See Plating.

GAS SOLDERING: See Soldering.

GAS-STOVES, TO CLEAN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

GAS TRICK: See Pyrotechnics.

GEAR LUBRICANT: See Lubricants.

«GELATIN:»

«French Gelatin.»—Gelatin is derived from two sources, the parings of skins, hides, etc., and from bones. The latter are submitted to the action of dilute hydrochloric acid for several days, which attacks the inorganic matters—carbonates, phosphates, etc., and leaves the ossein, which is, so to say, an isomer of the skin substance. The skin, parings of hide, etc., gathered from the shambles, butcher shops, etc., are brought into the factory, and if not ready for immediate use are thrown into quicklime, which preserves them for the time being. From the lime, after washing, they pass into dilute acid, which removes the last traces of lime, and are now ready for the treatment that is to furnish the pure gelatin. The ossein from bones goes through the same stages of treatment, into lime, washed and laid in dilute acid again. From the acid bath the material goes into baths of water maintained at a temperature not higher than from 175° to 195° F.

The gelatin manufacturer buys from the button-makers and manufacturers of knife handles and bone articles generally, those parts of the bone that they cannot use, some of which are pieces 8 inches long by a half inch thick.

Bones gathered by the ragpickers furnish the strongest glue. The parings of skin, hide, etc., are from those portions of bullock hides, calf skins, etc., that cannot be made use of by the tanner, the heads, legs, etc.

The gelatin made by Coignet for the Pharmacie Centrale de France is made from skins procured from the tawers of Paris, who get it directly from the abattoirs, which is as much as to say that the material is guaranteed fresh and healthy, since these institutions are under rigid inspection and surveillance of government inspectors and medical men.

There is a gelatin or glue, used exclusively for joiners, inside carpenters, and ceiling makers (_plafonneurs_), called _rabbit vermicelli_, and derived from rabbit skins. As the first treatment of these skins is to saturate them with mercury bichloride, it is needless to say the product is not employed in pharmacy. {370}

«To Clarify Solutions of Gelatin, Glues, etc.»—If 1 per cent of ammonium fluoride be added to turbid solutions of gelatin or common glue, or, in fact, of any gums, it quickly clarifies them. It causes a deposition of ligneous matter, and also very materially increases the adhesive power of such solutions.

«Air Bubbles in Gelatin.»—The presence of minute air bubbles in cakes of commercial gelatin often imparts to them an unpleasant cloudy appearance. These minute air bubbles are the result of the rapid, continuous process of drying the sheets of gelatin by a counter-current of hot air. Owing to the rapid drying a hard skin is formed on the outside of the cake, leaving a central layer from which the moisture escapes only with difficulty, and in which the air bubbles remain behind. Since the best qualities of gelatin dry most rapidly, the presence of these minute bubbles is, to a certain extent, an indication of superiority, and they rarely occur in the poorer qualities of gelatin. If dried slowly in the old way gelatin is liable to be damaged by fermentation; in such cases large bubbles of gas are formed in the sheets, and are a sign of bad quality.

«GEMS, ARTIFICIAL:»

See also Diamonds.

The raw materials for the production of artificial gems are the finest silica and, as a rule, finely ground rock crystals; white sand and quartz, which remain pure white even at a higher temperature, may also be used.

Artificial borax is given the preference, since the native variety frequently contains substances which color the glass. Lead carbonate or red lead must be perfectly pure and not contain any protoxide, since the latter gives the glass a dull, greenish hue. White lead and red lead have to dissolve completely in dilute nitric acid or without leaving a residue; the solution, neutralized as much as possible, must not be reddened by prussiate of potash. In the former case tin is present, in the latter copper. Arsenious acid and saltpeter must be perfectly pure; they serve for the destruction of the organic substances. The materials, without the coloring oxide, furnish the starting quantity for the production of artificial gems; such glass pastes are named “strass.”

The emerald, a precious stone of green color, is imitated by melting 1,000 parts of strass and 8 parts of chromic oxide. Artificial emeralds are also obtained with cupric acid and ferric oxides, consisting of 43.84 parts of rock crystal; 21.92 parts of dry sodium carbonate; 7.2 parts of calcined and powdered borax; 7.2 parts of red lead; 3.65 parts of saltpeter; 1.21 parts of red ferric oxide, and 0.6 parts of green copper carbonate.

Agates are imitated by allowing fragments of variously colored pastes to flow together, and stirring during the deliquation.

The amethyst is imitated by mixing 300 parts of a glass frit with 0.6 parts of gray manganese ore, or from 300 parts of frit containing 0.8 per cent of manganic oxide, 36.5 parts of saltpeter, 15 parts of borax, and 15 parts of minium (red lead). A handsome amethyst is obtained by melting together 1,000 parts of strass, 8 parts of manganese oxide, 5 parts of cobalt oxide, and 2 parts of gold purple.

Latterly, attempts have also been made to produce very hard glasses for imitation stones from alumina and borax with the requisite coloring agents.

Besides imitation stones there are also produced opaque glass pastes bearing the name of the stones they resemble, e. g., aventurine, azure-stone (lapis lazuli), chrysoprase, turquoise, obsidian, etc. For these, especially pure materials, as belonging to the most important ingredients of glassy bodies, are used, and certain quantities of red lead and borax are also added.

GEM CEMENTS: See Adhesives, under Jewelers’ Cements.

GERMAN SILVER: See Alloys.

GERMAN SILVER SOLDERS: See Solders.

GILDING: See Paints, Plating, and Varnishes.

GILDING GLASS: See Glass.

GILDING, TO CLEAN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

GILDING, RENOVATION OF: See Cleaning Compounds.

GILDING SUBSTITUTE: See Plating.

GILT, TEST FOR: See Gold.

GILT WORK, TO BURNISH: See Gold. {371}

GINGERADE: See Beverages.

GINGER ALE AND GINGER BEER: See Beverages.

GINGER CORDIAL: See Wines and Liquors.

GINGER EXTRACTS: See Essences and Extracts.

«Glass»