Part 6

VII. Rubber.—Because of its toughness, elasticity, and resistance to alterative influences, rubber is a very useful constituent in lutes, but its price makes its use very limited.

Leather Cement.

1. Asphalt 1 part Rosin 1 part Gutta percha 4 parts Carbon disulphide 20 parts

To stand acid vapors:

2. Rubber 1 part Linseed oil 3 parts Fire clay 3 parts

3. Plain Rubber Cement.—Cut the crude rubber in small pieces and then add the solvent. Carbon disulphide is the best, benzol good and much cheaper, but gasoline is probably most extensively used because of its cheapness.

4. To make corks and wood impervious to steam and water, soak them in a rubber solution as above; if it is desired to protect them from oil vapors, use glue composition. (See Section IX.)

VIII. Linseed Oil.—This is one of the most generally useful substances we have for luting purposes, if absorbed by a porous substance that is inert.

Formulas: 1. China clay of general utility for aqueous vapors.

Linseed oil of general utility for aqueous vapors.

2. Lime forming the well-known putty.

Linseed oil forming the well-known putty.

3. Red or white lead and linseed oil.

These mixtures become very strong when set and are best diluted with powdered glass, clay, or graphite. There are almost an endless number of lutes using metallic oxides and linseed oil. A very good one, not getting as hard as those containing lead, is:

4. Oxide of iron and linseed oil.

IX. Casein, Albumen, and Glue.—These, if properly made, become very tough and tenacious; they stand moderate heat and oil vapors, but not acid vapors.

1. Finely powdered casein 12 parts Slaked lime (fresh) 50 parts Fine sand 50 parts Water to thick mush.

A very strong cement which stands moderate heat is the following:

2. Casein in very fine powder 1 part Rubbed up with silicate of soda 3 parts

A strong lute for general purposes, {35} which must be used promptly when made:

3. White of egg made into a paste with slaked lime.

A composition for soaking corks, wood, packing, etc., to render them impervious to oil vapors, is:

Gelatine or good glue 2 parts Glycerine 1⁠/⁠2 to 1 part Water 6 parts Oil of wintergreen, etc., to keep from spoiling.

X. Silicate of Oxychloride Cements.—For oil vapors, standing the highest heat:

1. A stiff paste of silicate of soda and asbestos.

Gaskets for superheated steam, retorts, furnaces, etc.:

2. Silicate of soda and powdered glass; dry the mixture and heat.

Not so strong, however, as the following:

3. Silicate of soda 50 parts Asbestos 15 parts Slaked lime 10 parts

Metal Cement:

4. Silicate of soda 1 part Oxides of metal, such as zinc oxide; litharge, iron oxide, singly or mixed 1 part

Very hard and extra strong compositions:

5. Zinc oxide 2 parts Zinc chloride 1 part Water to make a paste.

6. Magnesium oxide 2 parts Magnesium chloride 1 part Water to make a paste.

XI. Flour and Starch Compositions.—

1. The well-known flaxseed poultice sets very tough, but does not stand water or condensed steam.

2. Flour and molasses, made by making a stiff composition of the two. This is an excellent lute to have at hand at all times for emergency use, etc.

3. Stiff paste of flour and strong zinc-chloride solution forms a more impervious lute, and is more permanent as a cement. This is good for most purposes, at ordinary temperature, where it would not be in contact with nitric-acid vapors or condensing steam.

4. A mixture of dextrine and fine sand makes a good composition, mainly used as core compound.

XII. Miscellaneous.—

1. Litharge. Glycerine.

Mixed to form a stiff paste, sets and becomes very hard and strong, and is very useful for inserting glass tubes, etc., in iron or brass.

For a high heat:

2. Alumina 1 part Sand 4 parts Slaked lime 1 part Borax 1⁠/⁠2 part Water sufficient.

A class of mixtures that can be classified only according to their intended use are core compounds.

I.—Dextrine, about 1 part Sand, about 10 parts With enough water to form a paste.

II.—Powdered anthracite coal, with molasses to form a stiff paste.

III.—Rosin, partly saponified by soda lye 1 part Flour 2 parts Sand (with sufficient water) 4 parts

(These proportions are approximate and the amount of sand can be increased for some purposes.)

IV.—Glue, powdered 1 part Flour 4 parts Sand (with sufficient water) 6 parts

For some purposes the following mixture is used. It does not seem to be a gasket or a core compound:

V.—Oats (or wheat) ground 25 parts Glue, powdered 6 parts Sal ammoniac 1 part

_Paper read by Samuel S. Sadtler before the Franklin Institute._

«PASTES:»

«Dextrine Pastes.»—

I.—Borax, powdered 60 parts Dextrine, light yellow 480 parts Glucose 50 parts Water 420 parts

By the aid of heat, dissolve the borax in the water and add the dextrine and glucose. Continue the heat, but do not let the mixture boil, and stir constantly until a homogeneous solution is obtained, from time to time renewing the water lost by evaporation with hot water. Finally, bring up to full weight (1,000 parts) by the addition of hot water, then strain through flannel. Prepared in this manner the paste remains bright and clear for a long time. It has extraordinary adhesive properties and dries very rapidly. If care is not taken to keep the cooking temperature below the boiling point of water, the paste is apt to become brown and to be very brittle on drying. {36}

II.—Dissolve in hot water a sufficient quantity of dextrine to bring it to the consistency of honey. This forms a strong adhesive paste that will keep a long time unchanged, if the water is not allowed to evaporate. Sheets of paper may be prepared for extempore labels by coating one side with the paste and allowing it to dry; by slightly wetting the gummed side, the label will adhere to glass. This paste is very useful in the office or laboratory.

III.—Pour over 1,000 parts of dextrine 450 parts of soft water and stir the mixture for 10 minutes. After the dextrine has absorbed the water, put the mixture over the fire, or, preferably, on a water bath, and heat, with lively stirring for 5 minutes, or until it forms a light milk-like liquid, on the surface of which little bubbles begin to form and the liquid is apparently beginning to boil. Do not allow it to come to a boil. Remove from the fire and set in a bucket of cold water to cool off. When cold add to every 1,000 parts of the solution 51 parts glycerine and as much salicylic acid as will stand on the tip of a knife blade. If the solution is too thick, thin it with water that has been boiled and cooled off again. Do not add any more glycerine or the solution will never set.

IV.—Soften 175 parts of thick dextrine with cold water and 250 parts of boiling water added. Boil for 5 minutes and then add 30 parts of dilute acetic acid, 30 parts glycerine, and a drop or two of clove oil.

V.—Powder coarsely 400 parts dextrine and dissolve in 600 parts of water. Add 20 parts glycerine and 10 parts glucose and heat to 90° C. (195° F.).

VI.—Stir 400 parts of dextrine with water and thin the mass with 200 parts more water, 20 parts glucose, and 10 parts aluminum sulphate. Heat the whole to 90° C. (195° F.) in the water bath until the whole mass becomes clear and liquid.

VII.—Warm 2 parts of dextrine, 5 parts of water, 1 part of acetic acid, 1 part of alcohol together, with occasional stirring until a complete solution is attained.

VIII.—Dissolve by the aid of heat 100 parts of builders’ glue in 200 parts of water add 2 parts of bleached shellac dissolved previously in 50 parts of alcohol. Dissolve by the aid of heat 50 parts of dextrine in 50 parts of water, and mix the two solutions by stirring the second slowly into the first. Strain the mixture through a cloth into a shallow dish and let it harden. When needed cut off a piece of sufficient size and warm until it becomes liquid and if necessary or advisable thin with water.

IX.—Stir up 10 parts of dextrine with sufficient water to make a thick broth. Then, over a light fire, heat and add 25 parts of sodium water glass.

X.—Dissolve 5 parts of dextrine in water and add 1 part of alum.

«Fastening Cork to Metal.»—In fastening cork to iron and brass, even when these are lacquered, a good sealing wax containing shellac will be found to serve the purpose nicely. Wax prepared with rosin is not suitable. The cork surface is painted with the melted sealing wax. The surface of the metal is heated with a spirit flame entirely free from soot, until the sealing wax melts when pressed upon the metallic surface. The wax is held in the flame until it burns, and it is then applied to the hot surface of the metal. The cork surface painted with sealing wax is now held in the flame, and as soon as the wax begins to melt the cork is pressed firmly on the metallic surface bearing the wax.

«To Paste Celluloid on Wood, Tin, or Leather.»—To attach celluloid to wood, tin, or leather, a mixture of 1 part of shellac, 1 part of spirit of camphor, 3 to 4 parts of alcohol and spirit of camphor (90°) is well adapted, in which 1 part of camphor is dissolved without heating in 7 parts of spirit of wine of 0.832 specific gravity, adding 2 parts of water.

«To Paste Paper Signs on Metal or Cloth.»—A piece of gutta percha of the same size as the label is laid under the latter and the whole is heated. If the heating cannot be accomplished by means of a spirit lamp the label should be ironed down under a protective cloth or paper in the same manner as woolen goods are pressed. This method is also very useful for attaching paper labels to minerals.

«Paste for Fastening Leather, Oilcloth, or Similar Stuff to Table or Desk Tops, etc.»—Use the same paste for leather as for oilcloth or other goods, but moisten the leather before applying the paste. Prepare the paste as follows: Mix 2 1⁠/⁠4 pounds of good wheat flour with 2 tablespoonfuls of pulverized gum arabic or powdered rosin and 2 tablespoonfuls of pulverized alum in a clean dish with water enough to make a uniformly thick batter; set it over a slow fire and stir continuously until the paste is uniform and free from lumps. When the mass has become so stout that the wooden spoon or stick will stand in it {37} upright, it is taken from the fire and placed in another dish and covered so that no skin will form on top. When cold, the table or desk top, etc., is covered with a thin coat of the paste, the cloth, etc., carefully laid on and smoothed from the center toward the edges with a rolling pin. The trimming of edges is accomplished when the paste has dried. To smooth out the leather after pasting, a woolen cloth is of the best service.

«To Paste Paper on Smooth Iron.»—Over a water bath dissolve 200 parts, by weight, of gelatine in 150 parts, by weight, of water; while stirring add 50 parts, by weight, of acetic acid, 50 parts alcohol, and 50 parts, by weight, of pulverized alum. The spot upon which it is desired to attach the paper must first be rubbed with a bit of fine emery paper.

«Paste for Affixing Cloth to Metal.»—

Starch 20 parts Sugar 10 parts Zinc chloride 1 part Water 100 parts

Mix the ingredients and stir until a perfectly smooth liquid results entirely free from lumps, then warm gradually until the liquid thickens.

«To Fix Paper upon Polished Metal.»—Dissolve 400 parts, by weight, of dextrine in 600 parts, by weight, of water; add to this 10 parts, by weight, of glucose, and heat almost to boiling.

«Albumen Paste.»—Fresh egg albumen is recommended as a paste for affixing labels on bottles. It is said that labels put on with this substance, and well dried at the time, will not loosen even when bottles are put into water and left there for some time. Albumen, dry, is almost proof against mold or ferments. As to cost, it is but little if any higher than gum arabic, the white of one egg being sufficient to attach at least 100 medium-sized labels.

«Paste for Parchment Paper.»—The best agent is made by dissolving casein in a saturated aqueous solution of borax.

«Medical Paste.»—As an adhesive agent for medicinal purposes Professor Reihl, of Leipsic, recommends the viscous substance contained in the white mistletoe. It is largely present in the berries and the bark of the plant; it is called viscin, and can be produced at one-tenth the price of caoutchouc. Solutions in benzine may be used like those of caoutchouc without causing any irritation if applied mixed with medicinal remedies to the skin.

«Paste That Will Not Mold.»—Mix good white flour with cold water into a thick paste. Be sure to stir out all the lumps; then add boiling water, stirring all the time until thoroughly cooked. To 6 quarts of this add 1⁠/⁠2 pound light brown sugar and 1⁠/⁠4 ounce corrosive sublimate, dissolved in a little hot water. When the paste is cool add 1 drachm oil of lavender. This paste will keep for a long time.

«Pasting Wood and Cardboard on Metal.»—In a little water dissolve 50 parts of lead acetate and 5 parts of alum. In another receptacle dissolve 75 parts of gum arabic in 2,000 parts of water. Into this gum-arabic solution pour 500 parts of flour, stirring constantly, and heat gradually to the boiling point. Mingle the solution first prepared with the second solution. It should be kept in mind that, owing to the lead acetate, this preparation is poisonous.

«Agar Agar Paste.»—The agar agar is broken up small, wetted with water, and exposed in an earthenware vessel to the action of ozone pumped under pressure into the vessel from the ozonizing apparatus. About an hour of this bleaches the agar agar and makes it freely soluble in boiling water, when solutions far more concentrated than has hitherto been possible can be prepared. On cooling, the solutions assume a milky appearance, but form no lumps and are readily reliquefied by heating. If the solution is completely evaporated, as of course happens when the adhesive is allowed to dry after use, it leaves a firmly holding mass which is insoluble in cold water. Among the uses to which the preparation can be applied are the dressing of textile fabrics and paper sizing, and the production of photographic papers, as well as the ordinary uses of an adhesive.

«Strongly Adhesive Paste.»—Four parts glue are soaked a few hours in 15 parts cold water, and moderately heated till the solution becomes perfectly clear, when 65 parts boiling water are added, while stirring. In another vessel 30 parts boiled starch are previously stirred together with 20 parts cold water, so that a thin, milky liquid without lumps results. The boiling glue solution is poured into this while stirring constantly, and the whole is kept boiling another 10 minutes.

«Paste for Tissue Paper.»—

(_a_) Pulverized gum arabic 2 ounces White sugar 4 drachms Boiling water 3 fluidounces {38} (_b_) Common laundry starch 1 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Cold water 3 fluidounces

Make into a batter and pour into

Boiling water 32 fluidounces

Mix (_a_) with (_b_), and keep in a wide-mouthed bottle.

«Waterproof and Acidproof Pastes.»—

I.—Chromic acid 2 1⁠/⁠2 parts Stronger ammonia 15 parts Sulphuric acid 1⁠/⁠2 part Cuprammonium solution 30 parts Fine white paper 4 parts II.—Isinglass, a sufficient quantity Acetic acid 1 part Water 7 parts

Dissolve sufficient isinglass in the mixture of acetic acid and water to make a thin mucilage.

One of the solutions is applied to the surface of one sheet of paper and the other to the other sheet, and they are then pressed together.

III.—A fair knotting varnish free from surplus oil is by far the best adhesive for fixing labels, especially on metal surfaces. It dries instantly, insuring a speedy job and immediate packing, if needful, without fear of derangement. It has great tenacity, and is not only absolutely damp-proof itself, but is actually repellent of moisture, to which all water pastes are subject. It costs more, but the additional expense is often infinitesimal compared with the pleasure of a satisfactory result.

«Balkan Paste.»—

Pale glue 4 ounces White loaf sugar 2 ounces Powdered starch 1 ounce White dextrine 1⁠/⁠4 pound Pure glycerine 3 ounces Carbolic acid 1⁠/⁠4 ounce Boiling water 32 ounces

Cut up the glue and steep it in 1⁠/⁠2 pint boiling water; when softened melt in a saucepan; add sugar, starch, and dextrine, and lastly the glycerine, in which carbolic acid has been mixed; add remainder of water, and boil until it thickens. Pour into jars or bottles.

«Permanent Paste.»—

I.—Wheat flour 1 pound Water, cold 1 quart Nitric acid 4 fluidrachms Boric acid 40 grains Oil of cloves 20 minims

Mix the flour, boric acid, and water, then strain the mixture; add the nitric acid, apply heat with constant stirring until the mixture thickens; when nearly cold add the oil of cloves. This paste will have a pleasant smell, will not attract flies, and can be thinned by the addition of cold water as needed.

II.—Dissolve 4 ounces alum in 4 quarts hot water. When cool add as much flour as will make it of the usual consistency; then stir into it 1⁠/⁠2 ounce powdered rosin; next add a little water in which a dozen cloves have been steeped; then boil it until thick as mush, stirring from the bottom all the time. Thin with warm water for use.

«Preservatives for Paste.»—Various antiseptics are employed for the preservation of flour paste, mucilage, etc. Boric and salicylic acids, oil of cloves, oil of sassafras, and solution of formaldehyde are among those which have given best service. A durable starch paste is produced by adding some borax to the water used in making it. A paste from 10 parts (weight) starch to 100 parts (weight) water with 1 per cent borax added will keep many weeks, while without this addition it will sour after six days. In the case of a gluing material prepared from starch paste and joiners’ glue, borax has also demonstrated its preserving qualities. The solution is made by mixing 10 parts (weight) starch into a paste with water and adding 10 parts (weight) glue soaked in water to the hot solution; the addition of 1⁠/⁠10 part (weight) of borax to the solution will cause it to keep for weeks. It is equal to the best glue, but should be warmed and stirred before use.

«Board-Sizing.»—A cheap sizing for rough, weather-beaten boards may be made by dissolving shellac in sal soda and adding some heavy-bodied pigment. This size will stick to grease spots. Linseed oil may be added if desired. Limewater and linseed oil make a good heavy sizing, but hard to spread. They are usually used half and half, though these proportions may be varied somewhat.

«Rice Paste.»—Mix the rice flour with cold water, and boil it over a gentle fire until it thickens. This paste is quite white and becomes transparent on drying. It is very adherent and of great use for many purposes.

«Casein Paste.»—A solution of tannin, prepared from a bark or from commercial tannin, is precipitated with limewater, the lime being added until the solution just turns red litmus paper blue. The supernatant liquid is then decanted, {39} and the precipitate is dried without artificial heat. The resulting calcium tannate is then mixed, according to the purpose for which the adhesive is intended, with from 1 to 10 times its weight of dry casein by grinding in a mill. The adhesive compound is soluble in water, petroleum, oils, and carbon bisulphide. It is very strong, and is applied in the form of a paste with water.

«PASTES FOR PAPERHANGERS.»

I.—Use a cheap grade of rye or wheat flour, mix thoroughly with cold water to about the consistency of dough, or a little thinner, being careful to remove all lumps; stir in a tablespoonful of powdered alum to a quart of flour, then pour in boiling water, stirring rapidly until the flour is thoroughly cooked. Let this cool before using, and thin with cold water.

II.—Venetian Paste.—

(_a_) 4 ounces white or fish glue 8 fluidounces cold water (_b_) 2 fluidounces Venice turpentine (_c_) 1 pound rye flour 16 fluidounces (1 pint) cold water (_d_) 64 fluidounces (1⁠/⁠2 gallon) boiling water

Soak the 4 ounces of glue in the cold water for 4 hours; dissolve on a water bath (glue pot), and while hot stir in the Venice turpentine. Make up (_c_) into a batter free from lumps and pour into (_d_). Stir briskly, and finally add the glue solution. This makes a very strong paste, and it will adhere to a painted surface, owing to the Venice turpentine in its composition.

III.—Strong Adhesive Paste.—

(_a_) 4 pounds rye flour 1⁠/⁠2 gallon cold water (_b_) 1 1⁠/⁠2 gallons boiling water (_c_) 2 ounces pulverized rosin

Make (_a_) into a batter free from lumps; then pour into (_b_). Boil if necessary, and while hot stir in the pulverized rosin a little at a time. This paste is exceedingly strong, and will stick heavy wall paper or thin leather. If the paste be too thick, thin with a little hot water; never thin paste with cold water.

IV.—Flour Paste.—

(_a_) 2 pounds wheat flour 32 fluidounces (1 quart) cold water (_b_) 1 ounce alum 4 fluidounces hot water (_c_) 96 fluidounces (1⁠/⁠2 gallon) boiling water

Work the wheat flour into a batter free from lumps with the cold water. Dissolve the alum as designated in (_b_). Now stir in (_a_) and (_c_) and, if necessary, continue boiling until the paste thickens into a semitransparent mucilage, after which stir in solution (_b_). The above makes a very fine paste for wall paper.

V.—Elastic or Pliable Paste.—

(_a_) 4 ounces common starch 2 ounces white dextrine 10 fluidounces cold water

(_b_) 1 ounce borax 3 fluidounces glycerine 64 fluidounces (1⁠/⁠2 gallon) boiling water

Beat to a batter the ingredients of (_a_). Dissolve the borax in the boiling water; then add the glycerine, after which pour (_a_) into solution (_b_). Stir until it becomes translucent. This paste will not crack, and, being very pliable, is used for paper, cloth, leather, and other material where flexibility is required.

VI.—A paste with which wall paper can be attached to wood or masonry, adhering to it firmly in spite of dampness, is prepared, as usual, of rye flour, to which, however, are added, after the boiling, 8 1⁠/⁠3 parts, by weight, of good linseed-oil varnish and 8 1⁠/⁠3 parts, by weight, of turpentine to every 500 parts, by weight.