Part 47

V.—Acid boric 20 parts Oil wintergreen 10 parts Glycerine 110 parts Alcohol 150 parts Distilled water enough to make 600 parts

Sweet Salicyl.—

VI.—Acid salicylic 4 parts Saccharine 1 part Sodium bicarbonate 1 part Alcohol 200 parts

Foaming Orange.—

VII.—Castile soap 29 drachms Oil orange 10 drops Oil cinnamon 5 drops Distilled water 30 drachms Alcohol 90 drachms

Australian Mint.—

VIII.—Thymol 0.25 parts Acid benzoic 3 parts Tincture eucalyptus 15 parts Alcohol 100 parts Oil peppermint 0.75 parts

Fragrant Dentine.—

IX.—Soap bark 125 parts Glycerine 95 parts Alcohol 155 parts Rose water 450 parts

Macerate for 4 days and add:

Carbolic acid, cryst 4 parts Oil geranium 0.6 parts Oil cloves 0.6 parts Oil rose 0.6 parts Oil cinnamon 0.6 parts Tincture rhatany 45 parts Rose water 450 parts

Allow to stand 4 days; then filter.

Aromantiseptic.—

X.—Thymol 20 parts Oil peppermint 10 parts Oil cloves 5 parts Oil sage 5 parts Oil marjoram 3 parts Oil sassafras 3 parts Oil wintergreen 0.5 parts Coumarin 0.5 parts Diluted alcohol 1,000 parts

The products of the foregoing formulas are used in the proportion of 1 teaspoonful in a half glassful of water.

Foaming.—

XI.—Soap bark, powder 2 ounces Cochineal powder 60 grains Glycerine 3 ounces {259} Alcohol 10 ounces Water sufficient to make 32 ounces

Mix the soap, cochineal, glycerine alcohol, and water together; let macerate for several days; filter and flavor; if same produces turbidity, shake up the mixture with magnesium carbonate, and filter through paper.

Odonter.—

XII.—Soap bark, powder 2 ounces Cudbear, powder 4 drachms Glycerine 4 ounces Alcohol 14 ounces Water sufficient to make 32 ounces

Mix, and let macerate with frequent agitation, for several days; filter; add flavor; if necessary filter again through magnesium carbonate or paper pulp.

Sweet Anise.—

XIII.—Soap bark 2 ounces Aniseed 4 drachms Cloves 4 drachms Cinnamon 4 drachms Cochineal 60 grains Vanilla 60 grains Oil of peppermint 1 drachm Alcohol 16 ounces Water sufficient to make 32 ounces

Reduce the drugs to coarse powder, dissolve the oil of peppermint in the alcohol, add equal parts of water, and macerate therein the powders for 5 to 6 days, with frequent agitation; place in percolator and percolate until 32 fluidounces have been obtained. Let stand for a week and filter through paper; if necessary to make it perfectly bright and clear, shake up with some magnesia, and again filter.

Saponaceous.—

XIV.—White castile soap 2 ounces Glycerine 2 ounces Alcohol 8 ounces Water 4 ounces Oil peppermint 20 drops Oil wintergreen 30 drops Solution of carmine N. F. sufficient to color.

Dissolve the soap in the alcohol and water, add the other ingredients, and filter.

XV.—Crystallized carbolic acid 4 parts Eucalyptol 1 part Salol 2 parts Menthol 0.25 parts Thymol 0.1 part Alcohol 100 parts

Dye with cochineal (1 1⁠/⁠2 per cent).

«Jackson’s Mouth Wash.»—Fresh lemon peel, 10 parts; fresh sweet orange peel, 10 parts; angelica root, 10 parts; guaiacum wood, 30 parts; balsam of Tolu, 12 parts; benzoin, 12 parts; Peruvian balsam, 4 parts; myrrh, 3 parts; alcohol (90 per cent), 500 parts.

«Tablets for Antiseptic Mouth Wash.»—Heliotropine, 0.01 part; saccharine, 0.01 part; salicylic acid, 0.01 part; menthol, 1 part; milk sugar, 5 parts. These tablets may be dyed green, red, or blue, with chlorophyll, eosine, and indigo carmine, respectively.

«Depilatories»

«Depilatory Cream.»—The depilatory cream largely used in New York hospitals for the removal of hair from the skin previous to operations:

I.—Barium sulphide 3 parts Starch 1 part Water, sufficient quantity.

The mixed powders are to be made into a paste with water, and applied in a moderately thick layer to the parts to be denuded of hair, the excess of the latter having been previously trimmed off with a pair of scissors. From time to time a small part of the surface should be examined, and when it is seen that the hair can be removed, the mass should be washed off. The barium sulphide should be quite fresh. It can be prepared by making barium sulphate and its own weight of charcoal into a paste with linseed oil, rolling the paste into the shape of a sausage, and placing it upon a bright fire to incinerate. When it has ceased to burn, and is a white hot mass, remove from the fire, cool, and powder.

The formula is given with some reserve, for preparations of this kind are usually unsafe unless used with great care. It should be removed promptly when the skin begins to burn.

II.—Barium sulphide 25 parts Soap 5 parts Talc 35 parts Starch 35 parts Benzaldehyde sufficient to make 120 parts

Powder the solids and mix. To use, to a part of this mixture add 3 parts of water, at the time of its application, and with a camel’s-hair pencil paint the mixture evenly over the spot to be freed of hair. Let remain in contact with the {260} skin for 5 minutes, then wash off with a sponge, and in the course of 5 minutes longer the hair will come off on slight friction with the sponge.

Strontium sulphide is an efficient depilatory. A convenient form of applying it is as follows:

III.—Strontium sulphide 2 parts Zinc oxide 3 parts Powdered starch 3 parts

Mix well and keep in the dry state until wanted for use, taking then a sufficient quantity, forming into a paste with warm water and applying to the surface to be deprived of hair. Allow to remain from 1 to 5 minutes, according to the nature of the hair and skin; it is not advisable to continue the application longer than the last named period. Remove in all cases at once when any caustic action is felt. After the removal of the paste, scrape the skin gently but firmly with a blunt-edged blade (a paper knife, for instance) until the loosened hair is removed. Then immediately wash the denuded surface well with warm water, and apply cold cream or some similar emollient as a dressing.

By weight IV.—Alcohol 12 parts Collodion 35 parts Iodine 0.75 parts Essence of turpentine 1.5 parts Castor oil 2 parts

Apply with a brush on the affected parts for 3 or 4 days in thick coats. When the collodion plaster thus formed is pulled off, the hairs adhere to its inner surface.

V.—Rosin sticks are intended for the removal of hairs and are made from colophony with an admixture of 10 per cent of yellow wax. The sticks are heated like a stick of sealing wax until soft or semi-liquid (142° F.), and lightly applied on the place from which the hair is to be removed, and the mass is allowed to cool. These rosin sticks are said to give good satisfaction.

DEPTHINGS, VERIFICATION OF: See Watchmakers’ Formulas.

DESILVERING: See Plating.

DETERGENTS: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

DEVELOPERS FOR PHOTOGRAPHIC PURPOSES: See Photography.

DEXTRIN PASTES AND MUCILAGES: See Adhesives.

DIAL CEMENTS: See Adhesives, under Jewelers’ Cements.

DIAL CLEANERS: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

DIAL REPAIRING: See Watchmakers’ Formulas.

DIAMALT: See Milk.

«DIAMOND TESTS:»

See also Gems and Jewelers’ Formulas.

To Distinguish Genuine Diamonds.—If characters or marks of any kind are drawn with an aluminum pencil on glass, porcelain, or any substance containing silex, the marks cannot be erased by rubbing, however energetic the friction, and even acids will not cause them to disappear entirely, unless the surface is entirely freed from greasy matter, which can be accomplished by rubbing with whiting and passing a moistened cloth over the surface at the time of writing. So, in order to distinguish the true diamond from the false, it is necessary only to wipe the stone carefully and trace a line on it with an aluminum pencil, and then rub it briskly with a moistened cloth. If the line continues visible, the stone is surely false. If, on the contrary, the stone is a true diamond, the line will disappear without leaving a trace, and without injury to the stone.

The common test for recognizing the diamond is the file, which does not cut it, though it readily attacks imitations. There are other stones not affected by the file, but they have characteristics of color and other effects by which they are readily distinguished.

This test should be confirmed by others. From the following the reader can select the most convenient:

A piece of glass on which the edge of a diamond is drawn, will be cut without much pressure; a slight blow is sufficient to separate the glass. An imitation may scratch the glass, but this will not be cut as with the diamond. {261}

If a small drop of water is placed upon the face of a diamond and moved about by means of the point of a pin, it will preserve its globular form, provided the stone is clean and dry. If the attempt is made on glass, the drop will spread.

A diamond immersed in a glass of water will be distinctly visible, and will shine clearly through the liquid. The imitation stone will be confounded with the water and will be nearly invisible.

By looking through a diamond with a glass at a black point on a sheet of white paper, a single distinct point will be seen. Several points, or a foggy point will appear if the stone is spurious.

Hydrofluoric acid dissolves all imitations, but has no effect on true diamonds. This acid is kept in gutta-percha bottles.

For an eye practiced in comparisons it is not difficult to discern that the facets in the cut of a true diamond are not as regular as are those of the imitation; for in cutting and polishing the real stone an effort is made to preserve the original as much as possible, preferring some slight irregularities in the planes and edges to the loss in the weight, for we all know that diamonds are sold by weight. In an imitation, however, whether of paste or another less valuable stone, there is always an abundance of cheap material which may be cut away and thereby form a perfect-appearing stone.

Take a piece of a fabric, striped red and white, and draw the stone to be tested over the colors. If it is an imitation, the colors will be seen through it, while a diamond will not allow them to be seen.

A genuine diamond, rubbed on wood or metal, after having been previously exposed to the light of the electric arc, becomes phosphorescent in darkness, which does not occur with imitations.

Heat the stone to be tested, after giving it a coating of borax, and let it fall into cold water. A diamond will undergo the test without the slightest damage; the glass will be broken in pieces.

Finally, try with the fingers to crush an imitation and a genuine diamond between two coins, and you will soon see the difference.

DIAMOND CEMENT: See Adhesives, under Jewelers’ Cements.

DIARRHEA IN BIRDS: See Veterinary Formulas.

DIARRHEA REMEDIES: See Cholera Remedies.

«Die Venting.»—Many pressmen have spent hours and days in the endeavor to produce sharp and full impressions on figured patterns. If all the deep recesses in deep-figured dies are vented to allow the air to escape when the blow is struck, it will do much to obtain perfect impressions, and requires only half the force that is necessary in unvented dies. This is not known in many shops and consequently this little air costs much in power and worry.

«DIGESTIVE POWDERS AND TABLETS.»

I.—Sodium bicarbonate 93 parts Sodium chlorate 4 parts Calcium carbonate 3 parts Pepsin 5 parts Ammonium carbonate 1 part

II.—Sodium bicarbonate 120 parts Sodium chlorate 5 parts Sal physiologic (see below) 4 parts Magnesium carbonate 10 parts

III.—Pepsin, saccharated (U. S. P.) 10 drachms Pancreatin 10 drachms Diastase 50 drachms Acid, lactic 40 drops Sugar of milk 40 drachms

IV.—Pancreatin 3 parts Sodium bicarbonate 15 parts Milk sugar 2 parts

«Sal Physiologicum.»—The formula for this ingredient, the so-called nutritive salt (_Nahrsalz_), is as follows:

Calcium phosphate 40 parts Potassium sulphate 2 parts Sodium phosphate 20 parts Sulphuric, precipitated 5 parts Sodium chlorate 60 parts Magnesium phosphate 5 parts Carlsbad salts, artificial 60 parts Silicic acid 10 parts Calcium fluoride 2 1⁠/⁠2 parts

«Digestive Tablets.»—

Powdered double refined sugar 300 parts Subnitrate bismuth 60 parts Saccharated pepsin 45 parts Pancreatin 45 parts Mucilage 35 parts Ginger 30 parts

Mix and divide into suitable sizes. {262}

DIOGEN DEVELOPER: See Photography.

DIP FOR BRASS: See Plating and Brass.

DIPS: See Metals.

DIPS FOR CATTLE: See Disinfectants and Veterinary Formulas.

DISH WASHING: See Household Formulas

«Disinfectants»

«Disinfecting Fluids.»—

I.—Creosote 40 gallons Rosin, powdered 56 pounds Caustic soda lye, 38° Tw 9 gallons Boiling water 12 gallons Methylated spirit 1 gallon Black treacle 14 pounds

Melt the rosin and add the creosote; run in the lyes; then add the matter and methylated spirit mixed together, and add the treacle; boil all till dissolved and mix well together.

II.—Hot water 120 pounds Caustic soda lye, 38° B 120 pounds Rosin 300 pounds Creosote 450 pounds

Boil together the water, lye, and rosin, till dissolved; turn off steam and stir in the creosote; keep on steam to nearly boiling all the time, but so as not to boil over, until thoroughly incorporated.

III.—Fresh-made soap (hard yellow) 7 pounds Gas tar 21 pounds Water, with 2 pounds soda 21 pounds

Dissolve soap (cut in fine shavings) in the gas tar; then add slowly the soda and water which has been dissolved.

IV.—Rosin 1 cwt. Caustic soda lye, 18° B 16 gallons Black tar oil 1⁠/⁠2 gallon Nitro-naphthalene dissolved in boiling water (about 1⁠/⁠2 gallon) 2 pounds

Melt the rosin, add the caustic lye; then stir in the tar oil and add the nitro-naphthalene.

V.—Camphor 1 ounce Carbolic acid (75 per cent) 12 ounces Aqua ammonia 10 drachms Soft salt water 8 drachms

To be diluted when required for use.

VI.—Heavy tar oil 10 gallons Caustic soda dissolved in 5 gallons water 600° F 30 pounds

Mix the soda lyes with the oil, and heat the mixture gently with constant stirring; add, when just on the boil, 20 pounds of refuse fat or tallow and 20 pounds of soft soap; continue the heat until thoroughly saponified, and add water gradually to make up 40 gallons. Let it settle; then decant the clear liquid.

«Disinfecting Fluids or Weed-Killers.»—

I.—Cold water, 20 gallons; powdered rosin, 56 pounds; creosote oil, 40 gallons; sulphuric acid, 1⁠/⁠2 gallon; caustic soda lye, 30° B., 9 gallons.

Heat water and dissolve the rosin; then add creosote and boil to a brown mass and shut off steam; next run in sulphuric acid and then the lyes.

II.—Water 40 gallons Powdered black rosin 56 pounds Sulphuric acid 2 1⁠/⁠2 gallons Creosote 10 gallons Melted pitch 24 pounds Pearlash boiled in 10 gallons water 56 pounds

Boil water and dissolve rosin and acid; then add creosote and boil well again; add pitch and run in pearlash solution (boiling); then shut off steam.

III. (White).—Water, 40 gallons; turpentine, 2 gallons; ammonia, 1⁠/⁠2 gallon; carbolic crystals, 14 pounds; caustic lyes, 2 gallons; white sugar, 60 pounds, dissolved in 40 pounds water.

Heat water to boiling, and add first turpentine, next ammonia, and then carbolic crystals. Stir well until thoroughly dissolved, and add lyes and sugar solution.

«DISINFECTING POWDERS.»

I.—Sulphate of iron 100 parts Sulphate of zinc 50 parts Oak bark, powder 40 parts Tar 5 parts Oil 5 parts

II.—Mix together chloride of lime and burnt umber, add water, and set on plates. {263}

«Blue Sanitary Powder.»—

Powdered alum 2 pounds Oil of eucalyptus 12 ounces Rectified spirits of tar 6 ounces Rectified spirit of turpentine 2 ounces Ultramarine blue (common) 3⁠/⁠4 ounces Common salt 14 pounds

Mix alum with about 3 pounds of salt in a large mortar, gradually add oil of eucalyptus and spirits, then put in the ultramarine blue, and lastly remaining salt, mixing all well, and passing through a sieve.

«Carbolic Powder.» (Strong).—Slaked lime in fine powder, 1 cwt.; carbolic acid, 75 per cent, 2 gallons.

Color with aniline dye and then pass through a moderately fine sieve and put into tins or casks and keep air-tight.

«Pink Carbolized Sanitary Powder.»—

Powdered alum 6 ounces Powdered green copperas 5 pounds Powdered red lead 5 pounds Calvert’s No. 5 carbolic acid 12 1⁠/⁠2 pounds Spirit of turpentine 1 1⁠/⁠2 pounds Calais sand 10 pounds Slaked lime 60 pounds

Mix carbolic acid with turpentine and sand, then add the other ingredients, lastly the slaked lime and, after mixing, pass through a sieve. It is advisable to use lime that has been slaked some time.

«Cuspidor Powder.»—Peat rubble is ground to a powder, and 100 parts put into a mixing machine, which can be hermetically sealed. Then 15 parts of blue vitriol are added either very finely pulverized or in a saturated aqueous solution. Next are added 2 parts of formalin, and lastly 1 part of ground cloves, orange peel, or a sufficient quantity of some volatile oil, to give the desired perfume. The mixing machine is then closed, and kept at work until the constituents are perfectly mixed; the powder is then ready to be put up for the market. Its purpose is to effect a rapid absorption of the sputum, with simultaneous destruction of any microbes present, and to prevent decomposition and consequent unpleasant odors.

«Deodorants for Water-Closets.»—

I.—Ferric chloride 4 parts Zinc chloride 5 parts Aluminum chloride 5 parts Calcium chloride 4 parts Magnesium chloride 3 parts Water sufficient to make 90 parts

Dissolve, and add to each gallon 10 grains thymol and 1⁠/⁠4 ounce oil of rosemary, previously dissolved in about 6 quarts of alcohol, and filter.

II.—Sulphuric acid, fuming 90 parts Potassium permanganate 45 parts Water 4,200 parts

Dissolve the permanganate in the water, and add under the acid. This is said to be a most powerful disinfectant, deodorizer, and germicide. It should not be used where there are metal trimmings.

«Formaldehyde for Disinfecting Books, Papers, etc.»—The property of formaldehyde of penetrating all kinds of paper, even when folded together in several layers, may be utilized for a perfect disinfection of books and letters, especially at a temperature of 86° to 122° F. in a closed room. The degree of penetration as well as the disinfecting power of the formaldehyde depend upon the method of generating the gas. Letters, paper in closed envelopes, are completely disinfected only in 12 hours, books in 24 hours at a temperature of 122° F. when 70 cubic centimeters of formo-chloral—17.5 g. of gas—per cubic meter of space are used. Books must be stood up in such a manner that the gas can enter from the sides. Bacilli of typhoid preserve their vitality longer upon unsized paper and on filtering paper than on other varieties.

There is much difference of opinion as to the disinfecting and deodorizing power of formaldehyde when used to disinfect wooden tierces. While some have found it to answer well, others have got variable results, or failed of success. The explanation seems to be that those who have obtained poor results have not allowed time for the disinfectant to penetrate the pores of the wood, the method of application being wrong. The solution is thrown into the tierce, which is then steamed out at once, whereby the aldehyde is volatilized before it has had time to do its work. If the formal and the steam, instead of being used in succession, were used together, the steam would carry the disinfectant into the pores of the wood. But a still better plan is to give the aldehyde more time. {264}

Another point to be remembered in all cases of disinfection by formaldehyde is that a mechanical cleansing must precede the action of the antiseptic. If there are thick deposits of organic matter which can be easily dislodged with a scrubbing brush, they can only be disinfected by the use of large quantities of formaldehyde used during a long period of time.

«General Disinfectants.»—

I.—Alum 10 ounces Sodium carbonate 10 ounces Ammonium chloride 2 ounces Zinc chloride 1 ounce Sodium chloride 2 ounces Hydrochloric acid, quantity sufficient. Water to make 1 gallon.

Dissolve the alum in one half gallon of boiling water, and add the sodium carbonate; then add hydrochloric acid until the precipitate formed is dissolved. Dissolve the other salt in water and add to the previous solution. Finally add enough water to make the whole measure 1 gallon, and filter.

In use, this is diluted with 7 parts of water.

II.—For the Sick Room.—In using this ventilate frequently: Guaiac, 10 parts; eucalyptol, 8 parts; phenol, 6 parts; menthol, 4 parts; thymol, 2 parts; oil of cloves, 1 part; alcohol of 90 per cent, 170 parts.

Atomizer Liquid for Sick Rooms.—

III.—Eucalyptol 10 parts by weight Thyme oil 5 parts by weight Lemon oil 5 parts by weight Lavender oil 5 parts by weight Spirit, 90 per cent 110 parts by weight

To a pint of water a teaspoonful for evaporation.

Non-Poisonous Sheep Dips.—Paste.—