Part 42

Mix the zinc, bismuth, and aluminum salts, and to every 4 ounces of the mixture add 2 1⁠/⁠4 grains of eosine dissolved in a drachm of essence of bouquet, 12 minims oil of peppermint, and 12 grains of camphor. Make the whole into a paste with almond oil.

«Red.»—

Cacao butter 4 av. ounces White wax 4 av. ounces Olive oil 2 fluidounces Oil of rose 8 drops Oil of bergamot 3 drops Oil of neroli 2 drops Tincture musk 2 drops Carmine 90 grains Ammonia water 3 fluidrachms

«Deep, or Bordeaux, Red.»—

Zinc oxide 30 parts Bismuth subnitrate 30 parts Aluminum oxychloride 30 parts Carmine 1 part Ammonia water 5 parts Essence bouquet 3 parts Peppermint, camphor, etc., quantity sufficient.

Mix the zinc, bismuth, and aluminum salts. Dissolve the carmine in the ammonia and add solution to the mixture. Add 24 grains of camphor, and 24 minims of oil of peppermint dissolved in the essence bouquet, and make the whole into a paste with oil of sweet almonds.

«Vermilion.»—

Vermilion 18 parts Tincture of saffron 12 parts Orris root, powdered 30 parts Chalk, precipitated 120 parts Zinc oxide 120 parts Camphor 2 parts Essence bouquet 9 parts Oil of peppermint 2 parts Almond oil, quantity sufficient.

Mix as before.

«Pink.»—

Zinc carbonate 250 parts Bismuth subnitrate 250 parts Asbestos 250 parts Expressed oil of almonds 100 parts Camphor 55 parts Oil of peppermint 55 parts Perfume 25 parts Eosine 1 part

«Dark Red.»—Like the preceding, but colored with a solution of carmine.

«Rouge.»—

Zinc oxide. 2 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Bismuth subnitrate 2 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Aluminum plumbate 2 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Eosine 1 drachm Essence bouquet 2 drachms Camphor 6 drachms Oil of peppermint 20 minims Almond oil, quantity sufficient.

Dissolve the eosine in the essence bouquet, and mix with the camphor and peppermint; add the powder and make into a paste with almond oil.

«Black Grease Paints.»—

I.—Soot 2 av. ounces Sweet almond oil 2 fluidounces Cacao butter 6 av. ounces Perfume, sufficient.

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The soot should be derived from burning camphor and repeatedly washed with alcohol. It should be triturated to a smooth mixture with the oil; then add to the melted cacao butter; add the perfume, and form into sticks.

Brown or other colors may be obtained by adding appropriate pigments, such as finely levigated burned umber, sienna, ocher, jeweler’s rouge, etc., to the foregoing base instead of lampblack.

II.—Best lampblack 1 drachm Cacao butter 3 drachms Olive oil 3 drachms Oil of neroli 2 drops

Melt the cacao butter and oil, add the lampblack, and stir constantly as the mixture cools, adding the perfume toward the end.

III.—Lampblack 1 part Cacao butter 6 parts Oil neroli, sufficient.

Melt the cacao butter and the lampblack, and while cooling make an intimate mixture, adding the perfume toward the last.

IV.—Lampblack. 1 part Expressed oil of almonds 1 part Oil cocoanut 1 part Perfume, sufficient.

Beat the lampblack into a stiff paste with glycerine. Apply with a sponge; if necessary, mix a little water with it when using.

V.—Beat the finest lampblack into a stiff paste with glycerine and apply with a sponge; if necessary, add a little water to the mixture when using. Or you can make a grease paint as follows: Drop black, 2 drachms; almond oil, 2 drachms; cocoanut oil, 6 drachms; oil of lemon, 5 minims; oil of neroli, 1 minim. Mix.

«Fatty Face Powders.»—These have a small percentage of fat mixed with them in order to make the powder adhere to the skin.

Dissolve 1 drachm anhydrous lanolin in 2 drachms of ether in a mortar. Add 3 drachms of light magnesia. Mix well, dry, and then add the following: French chalk, 2 ounces; powdered starch, 1 1⁠/⁠2 ounces; boric acid, 1 drachm; perfume, a sufficient quantity. A good perfume is coumarin, 2 grains, and attar of rose, 2 minims.

«Nose Putty.»—I.—Mix 1 ounce wheat flour with 2 drachms of powdered tragacanth and tint with carmine. Take as much of the powder as necessary, knead into a stiff paste with a little water and apply to the nose, having previously painted it with spirit gum.

II.—White wax, 8 parts; rosin, white, 8 parts; mutton suet, 4 parts; color to suit. Melt together.

«Rose Powder.»—As a base take 200 parts of powdered iris root, add 600 parts of rose petals, 100 parts of sandalwood, 100 parts of patchouli, 3 parts of oil of geranium, and 2 parts of true rose oil.

«Rouge Tablets.»—There are two distinct classes of these tablets: those in which the coloring matter is carmine, and those in which the aniline colors are used. The best are those prepared with carmine, or ammonium carminate, to speak more correctly. The following is an excellent formula:

Ammonium carminate 10 parts Talc, in powder 25 parts Dextrin 8 parts Simple syrup, sufficient. Perfume, to taste, sufficient.

Mix the talc and dextrin and add the perfume, preferably in the shape of an essential oil (attar of rose, synthetic oil of jasmine, or violet, etc.), using 6 to 8 drops to every 4 ounces of other ingredients. Incorporate the ammonium carminate and add just enough simple syrup to make a mass easily rolled out. Cut into tablets of the desired size. The ammonium carminate is made by adding 1 part of carmine to 2 1⁠/⁠2 parts of strong ammonia water. Mix in a vial, cork tightly, and set aside until a solution is formed, shaking occasionally. The ammonium carminate is made by dissolving carmine in ammonia water to saturation.

«Rouge Palettes.»—To prepare rouge palettes rub up together:

Carmine 9 parts French chalk 50 parts Almond oil 12 parts

Add enough tragacanth mucilage to make the mass adhere and spread the whole evenly on the porcelain palette.

«Liquid Rouge.»—

I.—Carmine 4 parts Stronger ammonia water 4 parts Essence of rose 16 parts Rose water to make. 500 parts

Mix. A very delightful violet odor, if this is preferred, is obtained by using ionone in place of rose essence. A cheaper preparation may be made as follows: {231}

II.—Eosine 1 part Distilled water 20 parts Glycerine 5 parts Cologne water 75 parts Alcohol 100 parts

Mix.

Rub together with 10 parts of almond oil and add sufficient mucilage of tragacanth to make the mass adhere to the porcelain palette.

III.—Carmine 1 part Stronger ammonia water 1 part Attar of rose 4 parts Rose water 125 parts

Mix. Any other color may be used in place of rose, violet (ionone), for instance, or heliotrope. A cheaper preparation may be made by substituting eosine for the carmine, as follows:

IV.—Eosine 1 part Distilled water 20 parts Glycerine 5 parts Cologne water 75 parts Alcohol 100 parts

Mix.

«Peach Tint.»—

_a._—Buffalo eosine 4 drachms Distilled water 16 fluidounces

Mix.

_b._—Pure hydrochloric acid 2 1⁠/⁠2 drachms Distilled water 64 fluidounces

Mix.

Pour _a_ into _b_, shake, and set aside for a few hours; then pour off the clear portion and collect the precipitate on a filter. Wash with the same amount of _b_ and immediately throw the precipitate into a glass measure, stirring in with a glass rod sufficient of _b_ to measure 16 ounces in all. Pass through a hair sieve to get out any filtering paper. To every 16 ounces add 8 ounces of glycerine.

«Theater Rouge.»—Base:

Cornstarch 4 drachms Powdered white talcum 6 drachms

Mix.

_a._—Carminoline 10 grains Base 6 drachms Water 4 drachms

Dissolve the carminoline in the water, mix with the base and dry.

_b._—Geranium red 10 grains Base 6 drachms Water 4 drachms

Mix as above and dry.

«SKIN FOODS.»

Wrinkles on the face yield to a wash consisting of 50 parts milk of almonds (made with rose water) and 4 parts aluminum sulphate. Use morning and night.

Rough skin is to be washed constantly in Vichy water. Besides this, rough places are to have the following application twice daily—either a few drops of:

I.—Rose water 100 parts Glycerine 25 parts Tannin 3⁠/⁠4 part

Mix. Or use:

II.—Orange-flower water 100 parts Glycerine 10 parts Borax 2 parts

Mix. Sig.: Apply twice daily.

«“Beauty Cream.”»—This formula gives the skin a beautiful, smooth, and fresh appearance, and, at the same time, serves to protect and preserve it:

Alum, powdered 10 grams Whites of 2 eggs Boric acid 3 grams Tincture of benzoin 40 drops Olive oil 40 drops Mucilage of acacia 5 drops Rice flour, quantity sufficient. Perfume, quantity sufficient.

Mix the alum and the white of eggs, without any addition of water whatever, in an earthen vessel, and dissolve the alum by the aid of very gentle heat (derived from a lamp, or gaslight, regulated to a very small flame), and constant, even, stirring. This must continue until the aqueous content of the albumen is completely driven off. Care must be taken to avoid coagulation of the albumen (which occurs very easily, as all know). Let the mass obtained in this manner get completely cold, then throw into a Wedgwood mortar, add the boric acid, tincture of benzoin, oil, mucilage (instead of which a solution of fine gelatin may be used), etc., and rub up together, thickening it with the addition of sufficient rice flour to give the desired consistence, and perfuming at will. Instead of olive oil any pure fat, or fatty oil, may be used, even vaseline or glycerine.

«Face Bleach or Beautifier.»—

Syrupy lactic acid 40 ounces Glycerine 80 ounces Distilled water 5 gallons

Mix. Gradually add

Tincture of benzoin 3 ounces

Color by adding {232}

Carmine No. 40 40 grains Glycerine 1 ounce Ammonia solution 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Water to 3 ounces

Heat this to drive off the ammonia, and mix all. Shake, set aside; then filter, and add

Solution of ionone 1 drachm

Add a few drachms of kaolin and filter until bright.

«BLACKHEAD REMEDIES.»

I.—Lactic acid 1 drachm Boric acid 1 drachm Ceresine 1 drachm Paraffine oil 6 drachms Hydrous wool fat 1 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Castor oil 6 drachms

II.—Unna advises hydrogen dioxide in the treatment of blackheads, his prescription being:

Hydrogen dioxide 20 to 40 parts Hydrous wool fat 10 parts Petrolatum 30 parts

III.—Thymol 1 part Boric acid 2 parts Tincture of witch-hazel 18 parts Rose water sufficient to make 200 parts

Mix. Apply to the face night and morning with a sponge, first washing the face with hot water and castile soap, and drying it with a coarse towel, using force enough to start the dried secretions. An excellent plan is to steam the face by holding it over a basin of hot water, keeping the head covered with a cloth.

IV.—Ichthyol 1 drachm Zinc oxide 2 drachms Starch 2 drachms Petrolatum 3 drachms

This paste should be applied at night. The face should first be thoroughly steamed or washed in water as hot as can be comfortably borne. All pustules should then be opened and blackheads emptied with as little violence as possible. After careful drying the paste should be thoroughly rubbed into the affected areas. In the morning, after removing the paste with a bland soap, bathe with cool water and dry with little friction.

«HAND CREAMS AND LOTIONS:»

«Chapped Skin.»—

I.—Glycerine 8 parts Bay rum 4 parts Ammonia water 4 parts Rose water 4 parts

Mix the bay rum and glycerine, add the ammonia water, and finally the rose water. It is especially efficacious after shaving.

II.—As glycerine is bad for the skin of many people, here is a recipe which will be found more generally satisfactory as it contains less glycerine: Bay rum, 3 ounces; glycerine, 1 ounce; carbolic acid, 1⁠/⁠2 drachm (30 drops). Wash the hands well and apply while hands are soft, preferably just before going to bed. Rub in thoroughly. This rarely fails to cure the worst “chaps” in two nights.

III.—A sure remedy for chapped hands consists in keeping them carefully dry and greasing them now and then with an anhydrous fat (not cold cream). The best substances for the purpose are unguentum cereum or oleum olivarum.

If the skin of the hands is already cracked the following preparation will heal it:

Finely ground zinc oxide, 5.0 parts; bismuth oxychloride, 2.0 parts; with fat oil, 12.0 parts; next add glycerine, 5.0 parts; lanolin, 30.0 parts; and scent with rose water, 10.0 parts.

IV.—Wax salve (olive oil 7 parts, and yellow wax 3 parts), or pure olive oil.

«Hand-Cleaning Paste.»—Cleaning pastes are composed of soap and grit, either with or without some free alkali. Any soap may be used, but a white soap is preferred. Castile soap does not make as firm a paste as soap made from animal fats, and the latter also lather better. For grit, anything may be used, from powdered pumice to fine sand.

A good paste may be made by dissolving soap in the least possible quantity of hot water, and as it cools and sets stirring in the grit. A good formula is:

White soap 2 1⁠/⁠2 pounds Fine sand 1 pound Water 5 1⁠/⁠2 pints

«Lotion for the Hands.»—

Boric acid 1 drachm Glycerine 6 drachms

Dissolve by heat and mix with

Lanolin 6 drachms Vaseline 1 ounce

Add any perfume desired. The borated glycerine should be cooled before mixing it with the lanolin.

«Cosmetic Jelly.»—

Tragacanth (white ribbon) 60 grains Rose water 14 ounces

Macerate for two days and strain forcibly through coarse muslin or cheese {233} cloth. Add glycerine and alcohol, of each 1 ounce. Perfume to suit. Use immediately after bathing, rubbing in well until dry.

«Perspiring Hands.»—I.—Take rectified eau de cologne, 50 parts (by weight); belladonna dye, 8 parts; glycerine, 3 parts; rub gently twice or three times a day with half a tablespoonful of this mixture. One may also employ chalk, carbonate of magnesia, rice starch, hot and cold baths of the hands (as hot and as cold as can be borne), during 6 minutes, followed by a solution of 4 parts of tannin in 32 of glycerine.

II.—Rub the hands several times per day with the following mixture:

By weight Rose water 125 parts Borax 10 parts Glycerine 8 parts

«Hand Bleach.»—Lanolin, 30 parts; glycerine, 20 parts; borax, 10 parts; eucalyptol, 2 parts; essential oil of almonds, 1 part. After rubbing the hands with this mixture, cover them with gloves during the night.

For the removal of developing stains, see Photography.

«MASSAGE CREAMS:»

«Massage Application.»—

White potash soap, shaved 20 parts Glycerine 30 parts Water 30 parts Alcohol (90 per cent) 10 parts

Dissolve the soap by heating it with the glycerine and water, mixed. Add the alcohol, and for every 30 ounces of the solution add 5 or 6 drops of the mistura oleoso balsamica, German Pharmacopœia. Filter while hot.

«Medicated Massage Balls.»—They are the balls of paraffine wax molded with a smooth or rough surface with menthol, camphor, oil of wintergreen, oil of peppermint, etc., added before shaping. Specially useful in headaches, neuralgias, and rheumatic affections, and many other afflictions of the skin and bones. The method of using them is to roll the ball over the affected part by the aid of the palm of the hand with pressure. Continue until relief is obtained or a sensation of warmth. The only external method for the treatment of all kinds of headaches is the menthol medicated massage ball. This may be made with smooth or corrugated surfaces. Keep wrapped in foil in cool places.

«Casein Massage Cream.»—The basis of the modern massage cream is casein. Casein is now produced very cheaply in the powdered form, and by treatment with glycerine and perfumes it is possible to turn out a satisfactory cream. The following formula is suggested:

Skimmed milk 1 gallon Water of ammonia 1 ounce Acetic acid 1 ounce Oil of rose geranium 1 drachm Oil of bitter almond 1 drachm Oil of anise 2 drachms Cold cream (see below), enough. Carmine enough to color.

Add the water of ammonia to the milk and let it stand 24 hours. Then add the acetic acid and let it stand another 24 hours. Then strain through cheese cloth and add the oils. Work this thoroughly in a Wedgwood mortar, adding enough carmine to color it a delicate pink. To the product thus obtained add an equal amount of cold cream made by the formula herewith given:

White wax 4 ounces Spermaceti 4 ounces White petrolatum 12 ounces Rose water 14 ounces Borax 80 grains

Melt the wax, spermaceti, and petrolatum together over a water bath; dissolve the borax in the rose water and add to the melted mass at one time. Agitate violently. Presumably the borax solution should be of the same temperature as the melted mass.

«Massage Skin Foods.»—

This preparation is used in massage for removing wrinkles:

I.—White wax 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Spermaceti 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Cocoanut oil 1 ounce Lanolin 1 ounce Oil of sweet almonds 2 ounces

Melt in a porcelain dish, remove from the fire, and add

Orange-flower water 1 ounce Tincture of benzoin 3 drops

Beat briskly until creamy.

II.—Snow-white cold cream 4 ounces Lanolin 4 ounces Oil of Theobroma 4 ounces White petrolatum oil 4 ounces Distilled water 4 ounces

In hot weather add

Spermaceti 1 1⁠/⁠2 drachms White wax 2 1⁠/⁠2 drachms

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In winter the two latter are left out and the proportion of cocoa butter is modified. Prepared and perfumed in proportion same as cold cream.

III.—White petrolatum 7 av. ounces Paraffine wax 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Lanolin 2 av. ounces Water 3 fluidounces Oil of rose 3 drops Vanillin 2 grains Alcohol 1 fluidrachm

Melt the paraffine, add the lanolin and petrolatum, and when these have melted pour the mixture into a warm mortar, and, with constant stirring, incorporate the water. When nearly cold add the oil and vanillin, dissolved in the alcohol.

Preparations of this kind should be rubbed into the skin vigorously, as friction assists the absorbed fat in developing the muscles, and also imparts softness and fullness to the skin.

«SKIN BLEACHES, BALMS, LOTIONS, ETC.:»

See also Cleaning Methods and Photography for removal of stains caused by photographic developers.

«Astringent Wash for Flabby Skin.»—This is used to correct coarse pores, and to remedy an oily or flabby skin. Apply with sponge night and morning:

Cucumber juice 1 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Tincture of benzoin 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Cologne 1 ounce Elder-flower water 5 ounces

Put the tincture of benzoin in an 8-ounce bottle, add the other ingredients, previously mixed, and shake slightly. There will be some precipitation of benzoin in this mixture, but it will settle out, or it may be strained out through cheese cloth.

«Bleaching Skin Salves.»—A skin-bleaching action, due to the presence of hydrogen peroxide, is possessed by the following mixtures:

I.—Lanolin 30 parts Bitter almond oil 10 parts

Mix and stir with this salve base a solution of

Borax 1 part Glycerine 15 parts Hydrogen peroxide 15 parts

For impure skin the following composition is recommended:

II.—White mercurial ointment 5 grams Zinc ointment 5 grams Lanolin 30 grams Bitter almond oil 10 grams

And gradually stir into this a solution of

Borax 2 grams Glycerine 30 grams Rose water 10 grams Concentrated nitric acid 5 drops

III.—Lanolin 30 grams Oil sweet almond 10 grams Borax 1 gram Glycerine 15 grams Solution hydrogen peroxide 15 grams

Mix the lanolin and oil, then incorporate the borax previously dissolved in the mixture of glycerine and peroxide solution.

IV.—Ointment ammoniac mercury 5 grams Ointment zinc oxide 5 grams Lanolin 30 grams Oil sweet almond 10 grams Borax 2 grams Glycerine 30 grams Rose water 10 grams Nitric acid, C. P. 5 drops

Prepare in a similar manner as the foregoing. Rose oil in either ointment makes a good perfume. Both ointments may, of course, be employed as a general skin bleach, which, in fact, is their real office—cosmetic creams.

«Emollient Skin Balm.»—

Quince seed 1 ounce Water 7 ounces Glycerine 1 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Alcohol 4 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Salicylic acid 6 grains Carbolic acid 10 grains Oil of bay 10 drops Oil of cloves 5 drops Oil of orange peel 10 drops Oil of wintergreen 8 drops Oil of rose 2 drops

Digest the quince seed in the water for 24 hours, and then press through a cloth; dissolve the salicylic acid in the alcohol; add the carbolic acid to the glycerine; put all together, shake well, and bottle.

«Skin Lotion.»—

Zinc sulphocarbolate 30 grains Alcohol (90 per cent) 4 fluidrachms Glycerine 2 fluidrachms Tincture of cochineal 1 fluidrachm Orange-flower water 1 1⁠/⁠2 fluidounces Rose water (triple) to make 6 fluidounces

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«Skin Discoloration.»—Discoloration of the neck may be removed by the use of acids, the simplest of which is that in buttermilk, but if the action of this is too slow try 4 ounces of lactic acid, 2 of glycerine, and 1 of rose water. These will mix without heating. Apply several times daily with a soft linen rag; pour a small quantity into a saucer and dip the cloth into this. If the skin becomes sore use less of the remedy and allay the redness and smarting with a good cold cream. It is always an acid that removes freckles and discolorations, by burning them off. It is well to be slow in its use until you find how severe its action is. It is not wise to try for home making any of the prescriptions which include corrosive sublimate or any other deadly poison. Peroxide of hydrogen diluted with 5 times as much water, also will bleach discolorations. Do not try any of these bleaches on a skin freshly sunburned. For that, wash in hot water, or add to the hot water application enough witch-hazel to scent the water, and after that has dried into the skin it will be soon enough to try other applications.