Part 39

Mix all the powders with the vinegar, and steep the mixture over a very gentle fire for 3 hours. The pickles are to be parboiled with salt, and drained, and the spiced vinegar, prepared as above, is to be poured over them while it is still warm. The chowchow keeps best in small jars, tightly covered.

«Essence of Extract of Soup Herbs.»—Thyme, 4 ounces; winter savory, 4 ounces; sweet marjoram, 4 ounces; sweet basil, 4 ounces; grated lemon peel, 1 ounce; eschalots, 2 ounces; bruised celery seed, 1 ounce; alcohol (50 per cent), 64 ounces. Mix the vegetables, properly bruised, add the alcohol, close the container and set aside in a moderately warm place to digest for 15 days. Filter and press out. Preserve in 4-ounce bottles, well corked.

«Tomato Bouillon Extract.»—Tomatoes, 1 quart; arrowroot, 2 ounces; extract of beef, 1 ounce; bay leaves, 1 ounce; cloves, 2 ounces; red pepper, 4 drachms; Worcestershire sauce, quantity sufficient to flavor. Mix.

«Mock Turtle Extract.»—Extract of beef, 2 ounces; concentrated chicken, 2 ounces; clam juice, 8 ounces; tincture of black pepper, 1 ounce; extract of celery, 3 drachms; extract of orange peel, soluble, 1 drachm; hot water enough to make 2 quarts. {213}

«RELISHES:»

«Digestive Relish.»—

I.—Two ounces Jamaica ginger; 2 ounces black peppercorns; 1 ounce mustard seed; 1 ounce coriander fruit (seed); 1 ounce pimento (allspice); 1⁠/⁠2 ounce mace; 1⁠/⁠2 ounce cloves; 1⁠/⁠2 ounce nutmegs; 1⁠/⁠2 ounce chili pods; 3 drachms cardamom seeds; 4 ounces garlic; 4 ounces eschalots; 4 pints malt vinegar.

Bruise spices, garlic, etc., and boil in vinegar for 15 minutes and strain. To this add 2 1⁠/⁠2 pints mushroom ketchup; 1 1⁠/⁠2 pints India soy.

Again simmer for 15 minutes and strain through muslin.

II.—One pound soy; 50 ounces best vinegar; 4 ounces ketchup; 4 ounces garlic; 4 ounces eschalots; 4 ounces capsicum; 1⁠/⁠2 ounce cloves; 1⁠/⁠2 ounce mace; 1⁠/⁠4 ounce cinnamon; 1 drachm cardamom seeds. Boil well and strain.

«Lincolnshire Relish.»—Two ounces garlic; 2 ounces Jamaica ginger; 3 ounces black peppercorns; 3⁠/⁠4 ounce cayenne pepper; 1⁠/⁠4 ounce ossein; 3⁠/⁠4 ounce nutmeg; 2 ounces salt; 1 1⁠/⁠2 pints India soy. Enough malt vinegar to make 1 gallon. Bruise spices, garlic, etc., and simmer in 1⁠/⁠2 a gallon of vinegar for 20 minutes, strain and add soy and sufficient vinegar to make 1 gallon, then boil for 5 minutes. Keep in bulk as long as possible.

«Curry Powder.»—

I.—Coriander seed 6 drachms Turmeric 5 scruples Fresh ginger 4 1⁠/⁠2 drachms Cumin seed 18 grains Black pepper 54 grains Poppy seed 94 grains Garlic 2 heads Cinnamon 1 scruple Cardamom 5 seeds Cloves 8 only Chillies 1 or 2 pods Grated cocoanut 1⁠/⁠2 nut

II.—Coriander seed 1⁠/⁠4 pound Turmeric 1⁠/⁠4 pound Cinnamon seed 2 ounces Cayenne 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Mustard 1 ounce Ground ginger 1 ounce Allspice 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Fenugreek seed 2 ounces

«TABLE SAUCES:»

«Worcestershire Sauce.»—

Pimento 2 drachms Clove 1 drachm Black pepper 1 drachm Ginger 1 drachm Curry powder 1 ounce Capsicum 1 drachm Mustard 2 ounces Shallots, bruised 2 ounces Salt 2 ounces Brown sugar 8 ounces Tamarinds 4 ounces Sherry wine 1 pint Wine vinegar 2 pints

The spices must be freshly bruised. The ingredients are to simmer together with the vinegar for an hour, adding more of the vinegar as it is lost by evaporation; then add the wine, and if desired some caramel coloring. Set aside for a week, strain, and bottle.

«Table Sauce.»—Brown sugar, 16 parts; tamarinds, 16 parts; onions, 4 parts; powdered ginger, 4 parts; salt, 4 parts; garlic, 2 parts; cayenne, 2 parts; soy, 2 parts; ripe apples, 64 parts; mustard powder, 2 parts; curry powder, 1 part; vinegar, quantity sufficient. Pare and core the apples, boil them in sufficient vinegar with the tamarinds and raisins until soft, then pulp through a fine sieve. Pound the onions and garlic in a mortar and add the pulp to that of the apples. Then add the other ingredients and vinegar, 60 parts; heat to boiling, cool, and add sherry wine, 10 parts, and enough vinegar to make the sauce just pourable. If a sweet sauce is desired add sufficient treacle before the final boiling.

«Epicure’s Sauce.»—Eight ounces tamarinds; 12 ounces sultana raisins; 2 ounces garlic; 4 ounces eschalots; 4 ounces horse-radish root; 2 ounces black pepper; 1⁠/⁠2 ounce chili pods; 3 ounces raw Jamaica ginger; 1 1⁠/⁠2 pounds golden syrup; 1 pound burnt sugar (caramel); 1 ounce powdered cloves; 1 pint India soy; 1 gallon malt vinegar. Bruise roots, spices, etc., and boil in vinegar for 15 minutes, then strain. To the strained liquor add golden syrup, soy, and burnt sugar, then simmer for 10 minutes.

«Piccalilli Sauce.»—One drachm chili pods; 1 1⁠/⁠2 ounces black peppercorns; 1⁠/⁠2 ounce pimento; 3⁠/⁠4 ounce garlic; 1⁠/⁠2 gallon malt vinegar. Bruise spices and garlic, boil in the vinegar for 10 minutes, and strain.

One ounce ground Jamaica ginger; 1 ounce turmeric; 2 ounces flower of mustard; 2 ounces powdered natal arrowroot; 8 ounces strong acetic acid. Rub powders in a mortar with acetic acid and add to above, then boil for 5 minutes, or until it thickens.

«FLAVORING SPICES.»

I.—Five ounces powdered cinnamon bark; 2 1⁠/⁠2 ounces powdered cloves; 2 1⁠/⁠2 {214} ounces powdered nutmegs; 1 1⁠/⁠4 ounces powdered caraway seeds; 1 1⁠/⁠4 ounces powdered coriander seeds; 1 ounce powdered Jamaica ginger; 1⁠/⁠2 ounce powdered allspice. Let all be dry and in fine powder. Mix and pass through a sieve.

II.—Pickling Spice.—Ten pounds small Jamaica ginger; 2 1⁠/⁠2 pounds black peppercorns; 1 1⁠/⁠2 pounds white peppercorns; 1 1⁠/⁠2 pounds allspice; 3⁠/⁠4 pound long pepper; 1 1⁠/⁠4 pounds mustard seed; 1⁠/⁠2 pound chili pods. Cut up ginger and long pepper into small pieces, and mix all the other ingredients intimately.

One ounce to each pint of boiling vinegar is sufficient, but it may be made stronger if desired hot.

«Essence of Savory Spices.»—Two and one-half ounces black peppercorns; 1 ounce pimento; 3⁠/⁠4 ounce nutmeg; 1⁠/⁠2 ounce mace; 1⁠/⁠2 ounce cloves; 1⁠/⁠4 ounce cinnamon bark; 1⁠/⁠4 ounce caraway seeds; 20 grains cayenne pepper; 15 ounces spirit of wine; 5 ounces distilled water. Bruise all the spices and having mixed spirit and water, digest in mixture 14 days, shaking frequently, then filter.

«MUSTARD:»

«The Prepared Mustards of Commerce.»—The mustard, i. e., the flower or powdered seed, used in preparing the different condiments, is derived from three varieties of Brassica (_Cruciferæ_)—_Brassica alba L., Brassica nigra_, and _Brassica juncea_. The first yields the “white” seed of commerce, which produces a mild mustard; the second the “black” seed, yielding the more pungent powder; and the latter a very pungent and oily mustard, much employed by Russians. The pungency of the condiment is also affected by the method of preparing the paste, excessive heat destroying the sharpness completely. The pungency is further controlled and tempered, in the cold processes, by the addition of wheat or rye flour, which also has the advantage of serving as a binder of the mustard. The mustard flour is prepared by first decorticating the seed, then grinding to a fine powder, the expression of the fixed oil from which completes the process. This oil, unlike the volatile, is of a mild, pleasant taste, and of a greenish color, which, it is said, makes it valuable in the sophistication and imitation of “olive” oils, refined, cottonseed, or peanut oil being thus converted into _huile vierge de_ Lucca, Florence, or some other noted brand of olive oil. It is also extensively used for illuminating purposes, especially in southern Russia.

The flavors, other than that of the mustard itself, of the various preparations are imparted by the judicious use of spices—cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, pimento, etc.—aromatic herbs, such as thyme, sage, chervil, parsley, mint, marjoram, tarragon, etc., and finally chives, onions, shallots, leeks, garlic, etc.

In preparing the mustards on a large scale, the mustard flower and wheat or rye flour are mixed and ground to a smooth paste with vinegar, must (unfermented grape juice), wine, or whatever is used in the preparation, a mill similar to a drug or paint mill being used for the purpose. This dough immediately becomes spongy, and in this condition, technically called “cake,” is used as the basis of the various mustards of commerce.

«Mustard Cakes.»—In the mixture, the amount of flour used depends on the pungency of the mustard flower, and the flavor desired to be imparted to the finished product. The cakes are broadly divided into the yellow and the brown. A general formula for the yellow cake is:

Yellow mustard, from 20 to 30 per cent; salt, from 1 to 3 per cent; spices, from 1⁠/⁠4 to 1⁠/⁠2 of 1 per cent; wheat flour, from 8 to 12 per cent.

Vinegar, must, or wine, complete the mixture.

The brown cake is made with black mustard, and contains about the following proportions:

Black mustard, from 20 to 30 per cent; salt, from 1 to 3 per cent; spices, from 1⁠/⁠4 to 1⁠/⁠2 of 1 per cent; wheat or rye flour, from 10 to 15 per cent.

The variations are so wide, however, that it is impossible to give exact proportions. In the manufacture of table mustards, in fact, as in every other kind of manufacture, excellence is attained only by practice and the exercise of sound judgment and taste by the manufacturer.

«Moutarde des Jesuittes.»—Twelve sardels and 280 capers are crushed into a paste and stirred into 3 pints of boiling wine vinegar. Add 4 ounces of brown cake and 8 ounces of yellow cake and mix well.

«Kirschner Wine Mustard.»—Reduce 30 quarts of freshly expressed grape juice to half that quantity, by boiling over a moderate fire, on a water bath. Dissolve in the boiling liquid 5 pounds of sugar, and pour the syrup through a colander containing 2 or 3 large horse-radishes cut {215} into very thin slices and laid on a coarse towel spread over the bottom and sides of the colander. To the colate add the following, all in a state of fine powder:

Cardamom seeds 2 1⁠/⁠2 drachms Nutmeg 2 1⁠/⁠2 drachms Cloves 4 1⁠/⁠2 drachms Cinnamon 1 ounce Ginger 1 ounce Brown mustard cake 6 pounds Yellow mustard cake 9 pounds

Grind all together to a perfectly smooth paste, and strain several times through muslin.

«Duesseldorff Mustard.»—

Brown mustard cake 10 ounces Yellow mustard cake 48 ounces Boiling water 96 ounces Wine vinegar 64 ounces Cinnamon 5 drachms Cloves 15 drachms Sugar 64 ounces Wine, good white 64 ounces

Mix after the general directions given above.

«German Table Mustard.»—

Laurel leaves 8 ounces Cinnamon 5 drachms Cardamom seeds 2 drachms Sugar 64 ounces Wine vinegar 96 ounces Brown cake 10 ounces Yellow cake 48 ounces

Mix after general directions as given above.

«Krems Mustard, Sweet.»—

Yellow cake 10 pounds Brown cake 20 pounds Fresh grape juice 6 pints

Mix and boil down to the proper consistency.

«Krems Mustard, Sour.»—

Brown mustard flour 30 parts Yellow mustard flour 10 parts Grape juice, fresh 8 parts

Mix and boil down to a paste and then stir in 8 parts of wine vinegar.

«Tarragon Mustard.»—

Brown mustard flour 40 parts Yellow mustard flour 20 parts Vinegar 6 parts Tarragon vinegar 6 parts

Boil the mustard in the vinegar and add the tarragon vinegar.

«Tarragon Mustard, Sharp.»—This is prepared by adding to every 100 pounds of the above 21 ounces of white pepper, 5 ounces of pimento, and 2 1⁠/⁠2 ounces of cloves, mixing thoroughly by grinding together in a mill, then put in a warm spot and let stand for 10 days or 2 weeks. Finally strain.

«Moutarde aux Epices.»—

Mustard flour, yellow 10 pounds Mustard flour, brown 40 pounds Tarragon 1 pound Basil, herb 5 ounces Laurel leaves 12 drachms White pepper 3 ounces Cloves 12 drachms Mace 2 drachms Vinegar 1 gallon

Mix the herbs and macerate them in the vinegar to exhaustion, then add to the mustards, and grind together. Set aside for a week or ten days, then strain through muslin.

In all the foregoing formulas where the amount of salt is not specified, it is to be added according to the taste or discretion of the manufacturer.

«Mustard Vinegar.»—

Celery, chopped fine 32 parts Tarragon, the fresh herb 6 parts Cloves, coarsely powdered 6 parts Onions, chopped fine 6 parts Lemon peel, fresh, chopped fine 3 parts White-wine vinegar 575 parts White wine 515 parts Mustard seed, crushed 100 parts

Mix and macerate together for a week or 10 days in a warm place, then strain off.

«Ravigotte Mustard.»—

Parsley 2 parts Chervil 2 parts Chives 2 parts Cloves 1 part Garlic 1 part Thyme 1 part Tarragon 1 part Salt 8 parts Olive oil 4 parts White-wine vinegar 128 parts Mustard flower, sufficient

Cut or bruise the plants and spices, and macerate them in the vinegar for 15 or 20 days. Strain the liquid through a cloth and add the salt. Rub up mustard with the olive oil in a vessel set in ice, adding a little of the spiced vinegar from time to time, until the whole is incorporated and the complete mixture makes 384 parts. {216}

CONDIMENTS, TESTS FOR ADULTERATED: See Foods.

CONDITION POWDERS FOR CATTLE: See Veterinary Formulas.

CONDUCTIVITY OF ALUMINUM ALLOYS: See Alloys.

«Confectionery»

«Cream Bonbons for Hoarseness.»—Stir into 500 parts of cream 500 parts of white sugar. Put in a pan and cook, with continuous stirring, until it becomes brown and viscid. Now put in a baking tin and smooth out, as neatly as possible, to the thickness of, say, twice that of the back of a table knife and let it harden. Before it gets completely hard draw lines with a knife across the surface in such manner that when it is quite hard it will break along them, easily, into bits the size of a lozenge.

«Nut Candy Sticks.»—Cook to 320° F. 8 pounds best sugar in 2 pints water, with 4 pounds glucose added. Pour out on an oiled slab and add 5 pounds almonds, previously blanched, cut in small pieces, and dried in the drying room. Mix up well together to incorporate the nuts thoroughly with the sugar. When it has cooled enough to be handled, form into a round mass on the slab and spin out in long, thin sticks.

«Fig Squares.»—Place 5 pounds of sugar and 5 pounds of glucose in a copper pan, with water enough to dissolve the sugar. Set on the fire, and when it starts to boil add 5 pounds of ground figs. Stir and cook to 240° on the thermometer. Set off the fire, and then add 5 pounds of fine cocoanuts; mix well and pour out on greased marble, roll smooth, and cut like caramels.

«Caramels.»—Heat 10 pounds sugar and 8 pounds glucose in a copper kettle until dissolved. Add cream to the mixture, at intervals, until 2 1⁠/⁠2 quarts are used. Add 2 1⁠/⁠4 pounds caramel butter and 12 ounces paraffine wax to the mixture. Cook to a rather stiff ball, add nuts, pour out between iron bars and, when cool enough, cut into strips. For the white ones flavor with vanilla, and add 2 pounds melted chocolate liquor for the chocolate caramel when nearly cooked.

«Candy Orange Drops.»—It is comparatively easy to make a hard candy, but to put the material into “drop” form apparently requires experience and a machine. To make the candy itself, put, say, a pint of water into a suitable pan or kettle, heat to boiling, and add gradually to it 2 pounds or more of sugar, stirring well so as to avoid the risk of burning the sugar. Continue boiling the syrup so formed until a little of it poured on a cold slab forms a mass of the required hardness. If the candy is to be of orange flavor, a little fresh oil of orange is added just before the mass is ready to set and the taste is improved according to the general view at least by adding, also, say, 2 drachms of citric acid dissolved in a very little water. As a coloring an infusion of safflower or tincture of turmeric is used.

To make such a mass into tablets, it is necessary only to pour out on a well-greased slab, turning the edges back if inclined to run, until the candy is firm, and then scoring with a knife so that it can easily be broken into pieces when cold. To make “drops” a suitable mold is necessary.

Experiment as to the sufficiency of the boiling in making candy may be saved and greater certainty of a good result secured by the use of a chemical thermometer. As the syrup is boiled and the water evaporates the temperature of the liquid rises. When it reaches 220° F., the sugar is then in a condition to yield the “thread” form; at 240° “soft ball” is formed; at 245°, “hard ball”; at 252°, “crack”; and at 290°, “hard crack.” By simply suspending the thermometer in the liquid and observing it from time to time, one may know exactly when to end the boiling.

«Gum Drops.»—Grind 25 pounds of Arabian or Senegal gum, place it in a copper pan or in a steam jacket kettle, and pour 3 gallons of boiling water over it; stir it up well. Now set the pan with the gum into another pan containing boiling water and stir the gum slowly until dissolved, then strain it through a No. 40 sieve. Cook 19 pounds of sugar with sufficient water, 2 pounds of glucose, and a teaspoonful of cream of tartar to a stiff ball, pour it over the gum, mix well, set the pan on the kettle with the hot water, and let it steam for 1 1⁠/⁠2 hours, taking care that the water in the kettle does not run dry; then open the door of the stove and cover the fire with ashes, and let the gum settle for nearly an hour, then remove the scum which has settled on top, flavor and run out with the {217} funnel dropper into the starch impressions, and place the trays in the drying room for 2 days, or until dry; then take the drops out of the starch, clean them off well and place them in crystal pans, one or two layers. Cook sugar and water to 34 1⁠/⁠2° on the syrup gauge and pour over the drops lukewarm. Let stand in a moderately warm place over night, then drain the syrup off, and about an hour afterwards knock the gum drops out on a clean table, pick them apart, and place on trays until dry, when they are ready for sale.

«A Good Summer Taffy.»—Place in a kettle 4 pounds of sugar, 3 pounds of glucose, and 1 1⁠/⁠2 pints of water; when it boils drop in a piece of butter half the size of an egg and about 2 ounces of paraffine wax. Cook to 262°, pour on a slab, and when cool enough, pull, flavor, and color if you wish. Pull until light, then spin out on the table in strips about 3 inches wide and cut into 4- or 4 1⁠/⁠2-inch lengths. Then wrap in wax paper for the counter. This taffy keeps long without being grained by the heat.

«Chewing Candy.»—Place 20 pounds of sugar in a copper pan, add 20 pounds of glucose, and enough water to easily dissolve the sugar. Set on the fire or cook in the steam pan in 2 quarts of water. Have a pound of egg albumen soaked in 2 quarts of water. Beat this like eggs into a very stiff froth, add gradually the sugar and glucose; when well beaten up, add 5 pounds of powdered sugar, and beat at very little heat either in the steam beater or on a pan of boiling water until light, and does not stick to the back of the hand, flavor with vanilla, and put in trays dusted with fine sugar. When cold it may be cut, or else it may be stretched out on a sugar-dusted table, cut, and wrapped in wax paper. This chewing candy has to be kept in a very dry place, or else it will run and get sticky.

«Montpelier Cough Drops.»—

Brown sugar 10 pounds Tartaric acid 2 ounces Cream of tartar 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Water 1 1⁠/⁠2 quarts Anise-seed flavoring, quantity sufficient

Melt the sugar in the water, and when at a sharp boil add the cream of tartar. Cover the pan for 5 minutes. Remove the lid and let the sugar boil up to crack degree. Turn out the batch on an oiled slab, and when cool enough to handle mold in the acid and flavoring. Pass it through the acid drop rollers, and when the drops are chipped up, and before sifting, rub some icing with them.

«Medicated Cough Drops.»—

Light-brown sugar 14 pounds Tartaric acid 1 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Cream of tartar 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Water 2 quarts Anise-seed, cayenne, clove, and peppermint flavoring, a few drops of each.

Proceed as before prescribed, but when sufficiently cool pass the batch through the acid tablet rollers and dust with sugar.

«Horehound Candy.»—

Dutch crushed sugar 10 pounds Dried horehound leaves 2 ounces Cream of tartar 3⁠/⁠4 ounce Water 2 quarts Anise-seed flavoring, quantity sufficient.

Pour the water on the leaves and let it gently simmer till reduced to 3 pints; then strain the infusion through muslin, and add the liquid to the sugar. Put the pan containing the syrup on the fire, and when at a sharp boil add the cream of tartar. Put the lid on the pan for 5 minutes; then remove it, and let the sugar boil to stiff boil degree. Take the pan off the fire and rub portions of the sugar against the side until it produces a creamy appearance; then add the flavoring. Stir all well, and pour into square tin frames, previously well oiled.

«Menthol Cough Drops.»—

Gelatin 1 ounce Glycerine (by weight) 2 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Orange-flower water 2 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Menthol 5 grains Rectified spirits 1 drachm

Soak the gelatin in the water for 2 hours, then heat on a water bath until dissolved, and add 1 1⁠/⁠2 ounces of glycerine. Dissolve the menthol in the spirit, mix with the remainder of the glycerine, add to the glyco-gelatin mass, and pour into an oiled tin tray (such as the lid of a biscuit box). When the mass is cold divide into 10 dozen pastilles.

Menthol pastilles are said to be an excellent remedy for tickling cough as well as laryngitis. They should be freshly prepared, and cut oblong, so that the patient may take half of one, or less, as may be necessary.

«Violet Flavor for Candy.»—Violet flavors, like violet perfumes, are very complex mixtures, and their imitation is a {218} correspondingly difficult undertaking. The basis is vanilla (or vanillin), rose, and orris, with a very little of some pungent oil to bring up the flavor. The following will give a basis upon which a satisfactory flavor may be built:

Oil of orris 1 drachm Oil of rose 1 drachm Vanillin 2 drachms Cumarin 30 grains Oil of clove 30 minims Alcohol 11 ounces Water 5 ounces

Make a solution, adding the water last.

«CONFECTIONERY COLORS.»—The following are excellent and entirely harmless coloring agents for the purposes named:

«Red.»—Cochineal syrup prepared as follows:

Cochineal, in coarse powder 6 parts Potassium carbonate 2 parts Distilled water 15 parts Alcohol 12 parts Simple syrup enough to make 500 parts